Chapter 6

241. +Pineapple Cream for Bombe a la Parisienne.+-- Place a saucepan with the yolks of 6 eggs and 1 pint pineapple syrup over the fire and stir until nearly boiling; remove from the fire and when cold add 1 pint whipped cream; fill this inside of the strawberry ice, cover the form tightly, paste a strip of buttered paper around the edge of cover and bury in ice and salt for 3 hours; when ready to serve take out the form, rinse off with cold water, remove the paper, dip the form quickly into hot water and turn the bombe onto a handsome dish; garnish with fruit, French candies or fancy cakes and serve at once. NOTE.--The strawberry ice may be first frozen in a freezer and then put into the form.

242. +Ice Pudding (with Pumpernickel).+-- Cut 6 ounces pumpernickel into slices and dry them in the oven; roll them fine with a rolling pin and sift the crumbs through a coarse sieve; mix them with 1 quart whipped cream, add 1 teaspoonful extract of vanilla and 1 cup sugar; fill the cream into a tin form with a tube in the center, cover tightly, paste a strip of buttered paper around the edge of cover and bury in cracked ice and rock salt for 4 hours; when ready to serve dip the form into hot water, turn the pudding onto a round dish and serve at once.

243. +Ice Pudding (with Almonds).+-- Stir the yolks of 8 eggs with 3/4 pound sugar to a cream, add 1 quart whipped cream, 1/2 pound ground almonds and finish the same as Strawberry Pudding.

244. +Frozen Pudding a la Montmorency.+-- Mix 2 tablespoonfuls sugar with 1 cup finely chopped sweet almonds and 10 bitter ones; put this into a tin pan and roast in the oven to a light brown, stirring often; place a saucepan with the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 1 pint cream or milk and the roasted almonds over the fire and stir constantly until nearly boiling; then strain through a sieve; when cold add 2 tablespoonfuls caramel (see Boiling Sugar) and orange blossom water; put this into an ice cream freezer and work till it begins to thicken; then add 3/4 pint whipped cream, 1/2 cup finely chopped pistachio nuts and 3 ounces finely powdered macaroons; continue working the freezer till the cream is frozen hard; place a cream form in ice and salt, pour some cherry syrup around the sides and bottom, sprinkle with pistachio fillets and some preserved red cherries; then fill in the cream with some of the cherries laid between, put on the cover, paste a strip of buttered paper around its edge and completely bury the form in ice and rock salt for 1 hour; when ready to serve lift from the ice, rinse off with cold water, remove the paper, wipe the form dry and quickly dip it into hot water; have ready a handsome dish with a folded napkin; turn the pudding onto the dish, garnish with small fancy cakes and serve with whipped cream flavored with vanilla or maraschino.

245. +Pudding Glace a la Metternich.+-- Pound 3 ounces blanched almonds and 3 ounces blanched pistachio nuts to a paste; stir over the fire the yolks of 6 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls sugar, 1 pint cream and a little vanilla till nearly boiling; add the almonds and pistachio paste and set aside to cool; then strain through a sieve; soak 6 ounces seedless raisins, 3 ounces finely cut preserved orange peel and a little finely cut preserved apricots in maraschino and cut a small sponge cake into slices; 4 hours before serving place a high form into cracked ice and salt, put in a layer of cream and over this some fruit and cake; continue with cream, fruit and cake alternately till all is used; cover the form, paste a piece of buttered paper around the edge of cover and completely bury in plenty of cracked ice and salt; when ready to serve rinse the form off with cold water, remove the paper, quickly dip the form into hot water, turn the pudding onto a dish and garnish with fruit and fancy cake; serve with pistachio sauce made as follows:--Stir the yolks of 4 eggs with 1 pint sweet cream and 2 tablespoonfuls sugar over the fire till nearly boiling; remove from the fire, add 2 ounces finely powdered pistachio nuts and serve when cold with the pudding.

246. +A la Duchesse de Berry.+-- Press 1 quart strawberries through a sieve; dissolve 3/4 pound sugar in 1 cup cold water and add it to the strawberries; set a form into cracked ice and salt for 20 minutes, put in the strawberries and freeze it until thick; then spread the strawberry ice around the sides and bottom of a high ice form and let it stand in ice till hard; in the meantime prepare a cream for the inside; mix 1 pint cream with 6 tablespoonfuls sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs and 1 cup preserved pineapple cut into small pieces; stir this over the fire till nearly boiling; remove it and when cold put into a freezer; freeze until it begins to thicken; then add 1 pint whipped cream and freeze it for a few minutes longer; then fill it into the strawberry form, cover tightly, paste a strip of buttered paper around the edge of cover and bury in plenty of ice and rock salt for 1 hour; in serving take out of ice, rinse off with cold water, remove the paper, wipe the form dry, quickly dip it into hot water, turn the pudding onto a handsome dish and serve at once.

247. +Pudding Glace a la Allemande.+-- Put 2 dozen lady fingers on a long plate and pour over them some Madeira wine or maraschino; set a plain form without a tube in ice and rock salt; stir 1 pint cream with the yolks of 6 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls sugar and 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract over the fire till nearly boiling; when cold put in a freezer and freeze till it begins to thicken; then add 1 pint whipped cream and freeze for a few minutes longer; then put a layer of this cream into the plain form, standing in ice, put over this a layer of lady fingers and a few spoonfuls apricot marmalade or fruit jelly, then a layer of cream again; continue this way until all is used; let the last layer be cream; put on the cover, paste a piece of buttered paper around the edge of it and bury the form completely in ice and rock salt; let it remain 1 hour; then serve, garnished with fancy cake. NOTE.--If a form is not handy a 3-quart tin kettle will do.

248. +Frozen Pudding a la Richelieu.+-- Boil 1/4 pound rice in water till done and pour it onto a sieve to drain; pound 1/4 pound blanched almonds or pistachio nuts with a little cream to a paste; remove the shells and brown skin from 1/4 pound large chestnuts and boil them in milk till soft; then strain them through a sieve and mix rice and nuts together; boil 1/2 cup sugar with 1/2 cup water for 10 minutes, add 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract, mix (hot) with the above mixture and let it stand for an hour; put in a porcelain-lined saucepan 1 pint cream, the yolks of 6 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls sugar and 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract; stir this over the fire till nearly boiling; remove it and set aside to cool; spread 20 vanilla wafers on one side with apricot marmalade and put 2 and 2 together; dip them into sherry wine and set aside; also cut some stewed pineapple into dice; set a form into cracked ice and salt and put in a few spoonfuls cream; lay over the cream a layer of wafers, rice and pineapple; then cream again; continue until all is used; put on the cover, paste a strip of buttered paper around its edge and bury the form completely in ice and rock salt from 3 to 4 hours; when ready to serve turn the pudding onto a dish with a folded napkin underneath and send cold pineapple or pistachio sauce to table with it.

249. +Frozen Chestnut Pudding.+-- Place a saucepan with 1/2 pound large chestnuts over the fire, cover with water and boil a few minutes; drain the nuts in colander, remove the outside shell and the inside skin and boil in milk till soft; press them through a sieve and add the yolks of 6 eggs to the puree and 1 pint sweet cream, 1/2 pound sugar and 1 teaspoonful extract of vanilla; stir this over the fire till nearly boiling; strain through a fine sieve; boil for 15 minutes 2 ounces well washed currants, the same of seedless raisins and finely cut citron and a little orange peel in water; drain on a sieve and let them lay for 2 hours in Madeira wine; put a piece of ice (large enough to cover the bottom) in a strong pail or butter tub and sprinkle a handful of rock salt over it; put onto this an ice cream freezer and fill up the sides with cracked ice and salt; put in the chestnut cream and work till it begins to thicken; then pour in not quite 1 pint whipped cream and work until it is frozen quite hard; then add the fruit with the wine; let it freeze a little longer; transfer the cream to a pudding form with a tube in the center (or an ice form), put on the cover, paste a strip of buttered paper around its edge and bury the form in ice and salt for 1 hour; when ready to serve rinse off the form with cold water, remove the paper and wipe dry; then dip it quickly into hot water and turn the pudding onto a dish; garnish with fancy cake and serve with whipped cream.

250. +Frozen Apple Pudding.+-- Pare and core 8 nice greening apples, cut them into quarters and stew with 1/2 cup water till tender; boil 1 cup sugar with 1 cup water for 5 minutes and add it to the apples with 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract and 1/2 cup apricot marmalade; press the whole through a sieve; when cold put it into an ice cream freezer and work till it begins to get thick; then add 1 pint whipped cream, 3 ounces currants and the same of seedless raisins and finely cut citron; the last 3 ingredients should be boiled for 20 minutes in a little water and laid for 1/2 hour in vanilla syrup; let the whole freeze until hard; fill the cream into a form, put on the cover, paste a strip of buttered paper around the edge of the latter and bury in salt and ice for 1 hour; serve with whipped cream and garnish with fancy cakes.

251. +Mousse of Pineapple.+-- Line a plain form with white paper; see that there are no creases in the paper; lay it in even and smooth; set the form into cracked ice until following mixture is prepared:--Pare and cut into slices 1 ripe pineapple; dissolve 1 pound sugar in 1 pint water and put it over the fire to boil; add the pineapple slices and boil 20 minutes; transfer them to a sieve to drain; when cold cut some of the slices into halves and lay them inside on the side of form; cut the remaining slices of pineapple into dice and set them cold; place a saucepan with 1-1/2 cups pineapple syrup and the yolks of 9 eggs over the fire and stir till nearly boiling; remove from fire, add 1 cup pineapple dice and stir till cold; then mix it with 1 pint whipped cream; fill this into the form, put on the cover and paste a strip of buttered paper around its edge; then pack the form into cracked ice and salt so that it is completely buried and let it remain 4 hours; when ready to serve dip the form into hot water, dry quickly, turn the mousse onto a dish and garnish with fancy cakes.

252. +Mousse a la Vanille.+-- Dissolve 1 cup sugar in 1-1/2 cups water, add the yolks of 6 eggs and stir over the fire till nearly boiling; remove quickly and stir till cold; then add 1 pint whipped cream, 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla extract and finish the same as pineapple in foregoing recipe.

253. +Mousse a l'Orange.+-- Dissolve 1 cup sugar in 1 cup water and boil a few minutes with the juice of 1 lemon; remove the syrup from the fire, put in the thin peel of 2 oranges and let them lay for a few minutes; then remove; rub off the skin from 6 oranges with loaf sugar and add the orange sugar to the sugar syrup with the juice of 6 oranges and the yolks of 9 eggs; beat this with an egg beater till nearly boiling; remove quickly, set it in cold water and continue beating till cold; then add 1 pint whipped cream and finish the same as Pineapple Mousse.

254. +Mousse au Chocolat.+-- Dissolve 3 ounces grated chocolate in 1/2 cup water and boil for a few minutes; strain through a sieve and set aside; put in a saucepan the yolks of 6 eggs and 1 cup sugar syrup and stir over the fire till it begins to thicken; remove it quickly, set saucepan in cold water, add the chocolate and stir till cold; then mix it with 1 pint whipped cream and finish the same as Pineapple Mousse.

255. +Mousse au Maraskino.+-- Stir the yolks of 6 eggs with 3/4 cup sugar and 1 cup water over the fire to a cream; remove it from the fire and stir till cold; add 1/2 cup maraschino and 1 pint whipped cream and finish the same as Pineapple Mousse. Rum may be substituted for maraschino.

PAINS.

256. +Pain of Strawberries.+-- Put 1 quart ripe strawberries into a colander, rinse off with cold water and press them through a sieve; soak 2 ounces gelatine in 1/2 pint cold water for 15 minutes, add 1/2 pint boiling water and stir over the fire till gelatine is dissolved; set aside to cool; then dissolve 3/4 pound sugar in 1 pint cold water, put it over the fire with the juice of 1 lemon and boil 5 minutes; when cold add it with the gelatine to the strawberries; also add 1/2 cup white wine and a little cochineal; put the pain on ice till it begins to thicken; then fill it into a form with a tube in the center, cover and place for 2 or 3 hours on ice. Pains of raspberries or currants are made the same way, using no lemon.

257. +Pain d'Ananas.+-- Take a jar of preserved pineapples, cut them into small dice, add 1/2 pint white wine and a little more sugar if necessary; add the juice of 1 lemon and 2 ounces gelatine dissolved in 1 pint water; place this on ice and stir it now and then; as soon as it begins to thicken put into a form, which set on ice for 2 or 3 hours; then serve.

258. +Pain d'Ananas a la Parisienne.+-- Chose a large, ripe pineapple and pare and grate it; add 1-1/2 cups sugar and stir until dissolved; press the pineapple through a sieve and add the juice of 4 oranges and 2 ounces gelatine dissolved in 1 pint water; place a plain form into cracked ice and pour in a few spoonfuls orange jelly; when this is hard lay the form over on its side, pour in more jelly and keep turning slowly, so that the jelly may get all over the sides and form a lining; next have some pistachio nuts or blanched almonds cut into strips and sprinkle them over the sides and bottom of form; set the pineapple mixture on ice and stir until it begins to thicken; then fill into the form, cover and let it remain for 2 or 3 hours in ice; it is then ready to serve; chop the trimmings of the pineapple fine, pour over some cold sugar syrup and let it stand 2 hours; strain, add a little dissolved gelatine and pour over the pain when sent to table.

259. +Pain de Peches.+-- Take 20 large, ripe peaches and pare and quarter them; then press them through a sieve; add to this 1 pound sugar dissolved in 1 pint cold water and 2 ounces dissolved gelatine; crack the stones, remove the pits, scald in boiling water and free them from their brown skin; cut the pits in half and boil them in a little sugar syrup; add to the peach mixture 1/2 cup white wine and fill it into a tin form with a tube in the center; place the form on ice and let it remain till its contents begin to thicken; then stir in the peach pits and let it remain on ice 2 hours longer. Pains of apricots, cherries or plums are made the same way.

260. +Pain a la Victoria.+-- Press 1 pint ripe raspberries through a sieve and mix it with 1 ounce gelatine dissolved in 1/2 pint water; put 3/4 cup sugar into 1/2 pint cold water and stir until dissolved; then add it to the raspberries with a glass of white wine; place this on ice till it begins to thicken; prepare 1 quart almond blanc-mange (see Blanc-Mange); set a plain form into cracked ice and put in a layer of raspberries about an inch in thickness; let this get hard; then put in a layer of blanc-mange; after this is firm again put in raspberries, then blanc-mange; continue till all is used; let it remain on ice for 2 hours; when ready to serve turn the pain onto a round dish and garnish with fruit.

261. +Pain de Peches a la Richelieu.+-- Prepare a pain the same as Pain de Peches and also 1 pint almond blanc-mange; set a plain form with a tube in the center into cracked ice and put in by degrees the blanc-mange; put it 1/2 inch in thickness all around on the sides and bottom of form, so that it forms a complete lining inside; then fill in the pain of peaches and let it remain on ice for 2 hours: in serving dip the form into hot water, wipe dry and turn its contents into a glass dish.

262. +Pain de Peches a la Conde.+-- Pare and cut into halves 1-1/2 dozen large, ripe peaches and boil them with their blanched pits in sugar syrup for about 10 minutes; transfer the peaches to a dish or long tin pan, wipe dry and lay them with the hollow side up; put half a pit in the center of each and pour a spoonful of jelly over each piece (the jelly should be previously stirred on ice till it begins to thicken); next set a plain form into cracked ice, pour in some plain fruit or wine jelly and keep turning the form until the inside is lined with the jelly; cover the bottom with peaches; lay them so that the pits are to the outside; then lay the remaining peaches in rows on the side of form, pour over some jelly and when firm fill up the form with bavarois aux apricots, which is prepared as follows:--Pare and cut into pieces 1-1/2 dozen ripe apricots, lay in a dish, sprinkle over 1 cup sugar and let them stand for 2 hours; then press them through a sieve; mix the puree with 1 teaspoonful extract of vanilla and 1-1/2 ounces dissolved gelatine; put this on ice and stir till it begins to thicken; then carefully stir 1 pint whipped cream through it; fill the bavarois into form at once and let it remain on ice for 2 or 3 hours.

263. +Pain de Pommes a la Conde.+-- Choose 15 large pippin or greening apples and pare, quarter and stew them with a little water; press them through a sieve, add 1 cup sugar and when cold mix it with 2 ounces gelatine dissolved in 1 pint water and 1 pint almond milk (prepared the same as for Blanc-Mange); place this on ice and stir till it begins to thicken; fill it into a form which has already been set into cracked ice and let it remain for 2 or 3 hours; boil the cores and peels of apples till soft; strain through a bag, return the liquor to saucepan and boil 10 minutes; then add to 1/2 pint of juice 1 cup sugar and boil for a few minutes; pour the syrup into a dish and set aside to cool; in serving dip the form into hot water, wipe it dry and turn the pain onto a round dish, or into a large glass dish, and pour the apple syrup over it. This pain may be made of Bartlet pears in the same manner.

ICE CREAMS.

264. +Directions for Making Ice Cream.+-- The implements needed are a freezer, rock salt and finely cracked ice. Ice cream freezers can be bought at any hardware store. They consist of a large wooden pail with a faucet on the side near the bottom and a freezer with a paddle inside. The cracking of the ice is best accomplished by putting it into a coarse sack and pounding it fine with a hammer or mallet. Place the freezer into the pail, put in the paddle and cover the freezer tightly. Fill the space between the pail and freezer with fine cracked ice to 1/3 its height, sprinkle over 2 handfuls salt and pack down the ice with a piece of wood, so that it may be firm all around the freezer; continue with layers of ice, salt and the packing down till the ice reaches to the edge of cover; next pour into the freezer the mixture that is to be frozen; but care should be taken not to put in too much, for the cream needs plenty of room in order to become light and smooth; cover the freezer and let it stand for 5 minutes; then commence to turn; after 10 minutes' turning remove the cover from freezer and cut the frozen cream with a long bladed knife from the sides of can; repeat this every 10 minutes until the cream is frozen hard; then remove the paddle, even off the cream in the freezer, cover and let it stand for 10 minutes; do not draw off the water from pail until it stands above the ice and the freezer has lost its firm hold; after drawing off the water fill the space up again with cracked ice and salt; when the 10 minutes have elapsed fill the frozen cream into an ice form, cover tightly and paste a strip of buttered paper around the edge of cover; then pack the form into cracked ice and salt for 1 or 2 hours; when ready to serve take the form from the ice, rinse it off with cold water, remove the paper and wipe the form dry; then dip it quickly into hot water, take off the cover, turn the cream onto a dish and serve at once.

265. +Ice Cream (large quantity).+-- 14 quarts sweet cream, 6 quarts milk, 7 pounds sugar, 30 eggs and 1/4 pound gelatine; soak gelatine for 10 minutes in a little of the milk; put the remaining milk over the fire and boil; then add the soaked gelatine and stir and boil till it is dissolved; set aside to cool a little; beat eggs and sugar to a cream and add by degrees the milk, stirring constantly; return to fire and let it get boiling hot; but do not allow it to boil, otherwise it will curdle; remove from fire, pass it through a sieve and set aside to cool, stirring it occasionally; beat the cream until quite thick, gradually add the cold custard and continue beating for a little while longer; then put it in a freezer and freeze as directed.

266. +Fine Vanilla Ice Cream.+-- Beat the yolks of 8 eggs to a cream and add gradually 1 quart sweet cream which has previously been boiled and cooled; add 3/4 pound sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla extract and stir the whole over the fire until nearly boiling; then remove from fire and when cold strain it through a sieve and freeze as directed.

267. +Custard Ice Cream.+-- Put 5 eggs in a saucepan and beat them to a froth; add 1 cup sugar, 1 quart milk and set the saucepan in a vessel of boiling water over the fire; stir constantly until the custard nearly boils; then remove it from the fire and set the saucepan in cold water; when cold strain it through a sieve, add 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla or lemon extract, put the custard in the freezer and freeze as directed.

268. +Plain Ice Cream.+-- Put 2 teaspoonfuls cornstarch, 6 eggs, 2 cups sugar and 2 quarts milk in a saucepan over the fire and stir till just about to boil; remove from the fire, flavor with lemon or vanilla and finish as directed.

269. +Plain Ice Cream (another way).+-- Put 1 quart milk and 1 quart rich, sweet cream with the yolks of 8 eggs and 2 cups sugar over the fire and stir till just about to boil; remove from fire, beat the whites of the 8 eggs to a stiff froth and add them to the custard; add 3 teaspoonfuls vanilla and finish as directed.

270. +Pistachio Ice Cream.+-- 1/4 pound blanched pistachio nuts, 1/4 pound blanched almonds, 1 quart rich, sweet cream, 1-1/2 cups sugar, the yolks of 8 eggs and 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract; pound the nuts with a little water very fine; place a saucepan over the fire with the cream, the yolks of the 8 eggs, sugar and vanilla and stir until nearly boiling; remove from the fire, stir in the nuts and when cold press the whole through a sieve; finish as directed. Almond ice cream is made the same way.

271. +Maraschino Ice Cream.+-- Place a saucepan with 1 quart cream, 3/4 pound sugar and the yolks of 6 eggs over the fire and stir till it nearly boils; remove from fire, strain through a sieve and when cold add 1-1/2 gills maraschino; finish as directed. Rum ice cream is made in the same manner.

272. +Caramel Ice Cream.+-- 1-1/2 cups sugar, the yolks of 7 eggs, 1 quart sweet cream and 1 tablespoonful orange blossom water; boil 1/2 cup sugar with 1/4 cup water until it turns to a light brown color, add 1/4 cup boiling water and stir till the sugar is dissolved; put it in a saucepan with the cream, 1 cup sugar, yolks and orange water and stir the whole over the fire until nearly boiling; when cold strain it through a sieve and finish as directed.