Chapter 17

656. +Compote of Apples.+-- Choose medium sized tart apples, pare and cut them into halves, take out the cores, round the edges and lay them in cold water with lemon juice; boil 1 pound sugar with 1 pint water and the rind and juice of 1 lemon in a wide, low saucepan; put in the apples and let them boil 3 minutes; then turn the apples around, cover the pan and set it on side of stove, where they will stop boiling; let them stand 10 minutes; then thrust a straw through them; if it goes through easily they are done; if not, boil them for a minute longer; remove them from fire and set aside; when cold take the apples out of the syrup and lay them on a sieve; boil the syrup down until it thickens; pile the apples up in a glass dish and pour the syrup over when cold.

657. +Compote de Strelity.+-- Pare, core, cut into quarters and then into fine slices 12 large pippin apples; boil 1 cup sugar with 1 cup Rhine wine, 1 cup water, the juice of 1 lemon and 3 ounces finely sliced citron; put in the apples and boil them for a few minutes; then set aside to cool; soak 1 ounce gelatine in 1 cup water 20 minutes; add 1 cup boiling water and stir until dissolved; add it to the apples and boil for 1 minute; then remove from fire; when cold and beginning to thicken rinse out some small cups or forms with cold water, sprinkle each one with granulated sugar, fill them 3/4 full of apples and set on ice; boil 3/4 cup sugar with 1/2 cup Rhine wine and a little lemon juice to a syrup and set it in a cool place until wanted; in serving turn the apples out of the cups, put them on a round or oval-shaped dish and pour the syrup over them; or serve the apples with whipped cream.

PIES.

658. +Directions for Making Pies.+-- To succeed in making good pastry the following rules should be observed:--Flour should be of the best quality, dry and sifted before using. Butter, unless fresh, should be washed several times in cold water and dried in a napkin. Lard should be sweet, and is best when tried out from leaf lard. If suet is used it should be fresh, chopped fine and freed from all skin. During the process of chopping it should be dredged with flour. Beef dripping should be clarified, and if the dripping has any odor or by-taste a very disagreeable flavor will be imparted to the paste. Strict cleanliness must be observed. All utensils used for pastry making should be clean and kept exclusively for that purpose. Prepare the crust as quickly as possible and do not touch it with your hands any more than necessary. When the crust is ready take a pie plate (agate pie plates are the best) and dust it with flour; do not grease it with butter or lard. Cut off a portion of the crust, roll it out thin, lay it over the plate, press it down lightly with the hand, set the plate in front of you, press with the palms of both hands against the edge of plate and cut the paste which hangs over the edge off with your fingers. The plate is then ready to receive the ingredients of which the pie is to be made. If pumpkin, cocoanut or custard pie is to be made, brush the surface of crust over with beaten egg and sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls finely sifted bread or cracker crumbs; then fill in the mixture. This keeps the crust dry and prevents it from being heavy. Pies that are made of stewed or preserved fruit should also be treated the same way. For fine meringue pies the crust should be baked before the mixture is put in. This is done in the following manner:--Line the pie plate with crust and brush the edge over with beaten egg; then roll some pie crust very thin, cut it into strips 1 inch wide and cut one side of the strips into scallops with a knife; wet the edge of crust on the pie plate with beaten egg or water; then lay the strip around the edge of plate so the scallops stand a little above the edge; next lay some thin, buttered brown paper into the plate all over the crust, fill the plate with dry peas and bake it in a medium hot oven till crust is done; then take it from the oven, remove paper and peas, fill in the mixture and bake again till pie is done; draw the pie to front of oven, spread over the meringue and let it remain in oven for a few minutes; then transfer it to a cool place and serve cold. 1 or 2 quarts of dry peas should be kept for this purpose only. They may be put away in a box or glass jar and can then be used several times. If the peas should at any time become rancid from the butter or lard of which the pie crust is made, pour boiling water over them and drain and rub thoroughly with a dry towel; then spread them apart on shallow tins and when dry put away until wanted again. Instead of peas the pie plate may be filled with pieces of stale bread, which can then be used for bread crumbs; but peas are best for this purpose.

659. +Pie Crust (quick and good).+-- 2 cups flour, 1/2 teaspoonful salt, 1/2 cup ice water and 1 cup lard; sift flour and salt in a bowl, add the lard and chop it fine with a knife in the flour; add the water and mix it with the same knife into a stiff paste; put the paste on a floured board and work it for a few minutes with the knife; take a portion from it and roll it out thin; line a pie plate with it and fill the plate with the ingredients the pie is to be made of; roll out another portion of paste and spread over the top 1/2 tablespoonful lard; lay this over the pie with the lard side up, press the paste off which hangs over the edge of plate with your hands and place the pie in oven to bake. This crust is excellent, inexpensive and quickly made; sufficient for 2 large pies.

660. +Rich Pie Crust.+-- 1/2 pound flour, 1/2 teaspoonful salt, 1/2 pound lard and 1/2 cup ice water; sift flour and salt into a bowl, add the water and mix it into a paste; put the paste on a floured board and work it thoroughly for 5 minutes, or until it does not stick to the hands; then roll it out into a square about an inch in thickness; also shape the lard into a square, but 1 inch smaller than the paste; lay it in center of paste, fold the paste over and place it for 1/2 hour on ice; then put it on the board again, dust it under and over with flour, roll it out 3 times as long as wide with a rolling pin, fold over one-third to the center, roll over it once, fold the other end over that, so the paste is three double, roll over it once with the rolling pin, turn the paste around, roll it out again 3 times as long as wide, fold it up the same way as before and set the paste again for 1/2 hour on ice; repeat the folding and rolling twice more and let it rest each time for 1/2 hour; when ready to make the pie roll a portion of the paste out very thin, line pie plate as directed with it and fill the plate with the ingredients the pie is to be made of; roll out another portion of the paste, spread the top thickly with lard, lay the paste over the pie with the lard side up and remove the paste which hangs over the edge of plate by pressing against the edge with the palm of your hand; sufficient for 2 large pies.

661. +Fine Pie Crust.+-- 1 pound flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1/2 pint ice water, 1/2 pound lard, 6 ounces butter and the yolk of 1 egg; sift flour and salt in a bowl, add 1/2 the lard and chop it fine in the flour with a knife; put the yolk in the ice water and beat it with an egg beater till it foams; then add it to the flour and mix it with the same knife into a stiff paste; turn the paste onto a floured board and roll it into a square piece about an inch in thickness; form the remaining lard and the butter also into a square piece, but 1-1/2 inches smaller on all sides; lay it in center of paste, fold it over the lard and butter together, first from right and left, then from and towards you; lay the paste onto a plate and let it rest for 1/2 hour on ice; then put it on a board, dust under and over with flour and roll it out 3 times as long as wide, rolling always from you; fold over one-third to the center, roll over it once with the rolling pin, fold the other end over that, so the paste is 3 double, roll over it once with a rolling pin, turn the paste around, roll it out again 3 times as long as wide, fold it up the same as above and set the paste again for 1/2 hour on ice or in a cool place; repeat the rolling out and folding up twice more and let it rest each time 1/2 hour; after the last rolling let it rest 10 minutes and then use as directed; sufficient for 4 large pies.

662. +Family Pie Crust.+-- 1/2 pound butter, 6 ounces lard, 1 pound flour, 1 cup ice water and 1/2 teaspoonful salt; sift flour and salt into a bowl, add the lard and chop it up with a broad-bladed knife into the flour until it is very fine; next pour in the ice water and mix it with the same knife into a smooth paste; turn it onto a floured board, dust under and over with flour and roll it out 1 inch in thickness; divide the butter into 3 parts; put 1 part in small bits in regular rows all over the paste; then fold it up, first the right side towards the left, then the left side towards the right, so the paste has 3 thicknesses; turn it around, roll it out again the same way, put over the second part of butter, fold it up and roll out again the same way; put over the third part of butter, fold it up and roll it out twice more; let it rest for 1 hour on ice or in a cool place; then use; while the rolling and folding is going on flour must be sprinkled under and over the paste; the rolling pin must be kept floured, to keep the paste from sticking to it. This paste may be made the day before it is to be used, and if it stands for 2 or 3 days it will not hurt it as long as the paste is kept in a cool place; sufficient for 4 large pies.

663. +Fine Paste for Meat Pies, Patties and Baked Apple Dumplings.+-- Put 1 pound sifted flour on a paste board, make a hollow in center and put in the yolks of 3 eggs and 1/2 pound butter; work this quickly with your hands into a stiff paste, adding by degrees a little ice water; then roll it out 1 inch in thickness and fold the right and left side to the center, so they meet together; then fold the other two sides over to the center the same way and set it for 1 hour on ice or in a cool place; when that time has expired lay the paste onto a floured board, roll it out 3 times as long as wide, fold one-third over to the center, roll over it once with the rolling pin, fold the other third over that, so the paste has 3 layers, roll out again 3 times as long as wide, fold it up the same way, let it rest for 1/2 hour and roll and fold it up once more; then use. This paste is excellent for chicken, oyster, pigeon or beefsteak pie; also for baked apple dumplings and fine patties; sufficient for 1 large pie or for 9 apple dumplings.

664. +Puff Paste.+-- 1 pound flour, a pinch of salt, 1 cup ice water and 1 pound butter; sift flour in a bowl, add salt and ice water and mix it into a smooth paste; work it thoroughly on the board with your hands for 5 minutes, cover and set it for 20 minutes on ice; knead the butter well in ice water, to remove the salt, and dry it in a napkin; put the paste onto a floured board and roll it out into a square about 1-1/2 inches in thickness; press the butter flat, also into a square, but smaller than the paste; lay the butter in center of paste and fold the paste first from the right and left side; then from you and towards you over the butter together; turn the paste over with the folded side towards the board; dust under and over a little flour and roll the paste out 3 times as long as wide; fold the lower third over the center and roll over it once with the rolling pin; then fold over that the upper third, so the paste is three double; roll over it once with the rolling pin; turn the paste around, roll it out again 3 times as long as wide, fold it again 3 double, lay it on a plate and set the paste for 1 hour on ice; then roll it out again and fold the same way twice; let it rest for 1/2 hour on ice; roll and fold it twice more, so the paste has been rolled out and folded up 6 times; after the last rolling let it rest for 20 minutes and then use. The rolling out and folding together must be done with the greatest care, so the layers fit exactly over one another, as the whole success depends upon this. The paste has attained its greatest lightness when rolled and folded together 6 times; if it is rolled out oftener it will loose in lightness; and if it is to be used where lightness is not wanted it must be rolled and folded together from 8 to 10 times. Puff paste is best made in a cool place, and if handy on a marble slab.

665. +Short Paste (Muerber Teig--German art).+-- 1/2 pound sifted flour, 6 ounces butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, a pinch of salt, 1 tablespoonful sugar and the grated rind of 1/2 lemon; knead the butter in ice water, to remove the salt, and dry it in a napkin; put the flour on a board, make a hollow in center, put in the yolks, lemon, sugar, salt and butter and work it quickly into a smooth dough with your hands; set it on ice for 1 hour before using. Another way:--1/2 cup butter, the yolks of 3 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls cream, 1/2 tablespoonful sugar, a pinch of salt and 1/2 pound flour; mix these ingredients together the same as above. Short paste (or Muerber Teig) is used a great deal in Germany the same as pie crust in America, and is excellent when made right. A very nice pie is made as follows:--Roll the paste out very thin, cover a pie plate with it (one which is not very deep), cut off what hangs over the edge of plate, spread a thick layer of any kind of fruit marmalade over it, cover with a thin layer of the paste and bake in a quick oven; or bake thin layers of the paste the same as Jelly Cake, and when done lay 2 together with jelly, fruit marmalade or whipped cream between them. Another way to use it is:--Roll the paste out 1/8 of an inch in thickness, cut it into rounds with a cake cutter, brush them over with beaten egg and sprinkle chopped nuts and sugar over them; bake in a medium hot oven and serve with wine.

666. +Neapolitan Paste.+-- Scald 5 ounces almonds in boiling water and let them lay for a few minutes; then remove the brown skins and pound the almonds fine in a wedgewood mortar with the yolks of 4 eggs and 1 tablespoonful powdered sugar; sift 1 pound flour on a pastry board, make a hollow in center, put in 3/4 pound butter, 1/2 pound powdered sugar, the almonds, 1 whole egg and 1 yolk and the finely chopped peel of 1 lemon; work this into a stiff paste and set it for 1 hour on ice before using.

667. +Florentinian Paste.+-- Sift 1 pound flour on a pastry board, make a hollow in center, put in 1 cup butter, 1 cup sugar, 5 ounces grated chocolate, 2 whole eggs and the yolks of 5 hard boiled eggs rubbed through a sieve; add a little cinnamon and vanilla; knead this into a smooth paste and let it stand for 1 hour in a cool place before using.

668. +Almond Paste.+-- Pour boiling water over 1/2 pound almonds, remove the brown skins, let the almonds lay in cold water for 24 hours and change the water 2 or 3 times; then pound the almonds in a wedgewood mortar with 2 tablespoonfuls water and the juice of 1/2 lemon; press them through a sieve and mix with 1/2 pound powdered sugar into a stiff paste; put the paste into a porcelain-lined saucepan and stir over the fire until it loosens itself from bottom of saucepan; remove the paste from the fire and when cold put some powdered sugar on a pastry board, lay the paste on the sugar and work it into a round ball; then set it in a cool place 1 hour before using.

669. +Boiled Paste (Pate a choux).+-- Place a saucepan with 1 pint water or milk over the fire and add 1 cup butter, 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 1/4 teaspoonful salt and the peel of 1 lemon; as soon as it boils sprinkle in slowly, stirring constantly, 1 pint sifted flour; continue stirring until it has formed into a smooth paste and loosens itself from bottom of saucepan; transfer the paste to a dish and let it cool; then mix it by degrees with 8 whole eggs and use for cream cakes, chocolate eclairs and other small cakes.

670. +Nudels.+-- Sift 1 cup flour in a bowl and add a pinch of salt, a piece of butter the size of a hazel nut, 1 egg and 1 tablespoonful water; mix this into a stiff paste and work it well on a board so it does not stick to the hands; then divide it into 4 equal parts; roll each part out as thin as paper and let them lay on a board to dry for 10 minutes; then cut them into strips 1 inch wide; lay 4 strips over one another and cut them as fine as possible, like fine straws; when all are cut scatter the nudels all over the board and let them lay till dry; then use or put them away in a box; they will keep for some time. The yolks of 2 eggs may be used instead of 1 whole egg. Nudels are used for puddings or souflees and serve as a dessert; they are also largely used in soup. They should always be put into boiling water, soup or milk and boiled 10 minutes when wanted for use.

671. +Mince Pie.+-- 1 pound finely chopped boiled beef, 1/2 pound finely chopped suet, 1 pound well washed and dried currants, 1 pound stoned raisins, 1 pound finely cut citron, 1 pound sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful salt, the juice and a little grated rind of 2 oranges, the juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 pint cider, 1/2 pint brandy, 1/2 pint sherry wine, 1 teaspoonful ground cloves, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful mace, 1 grated nutmeg and 3 pounds finely chopped apples; mix all the ingredients well together and use; sufficient for 6 good sized pies. If this mince meat, is to be kept for any length of time omit the apples and fill the mince meat into glass jars; close tightly and keep them in a cool place. It will then keep all winter. When wanted to make pies of take 1 jar at a time and mix the mince meat with an equal portion of chopped apples; line 2 pie plates with rich pie crust, fill them with the mince meat, cover with same crust as directed (see Directions for Pies), cut a small opening in center and one on each side of upper crust and place the pie in a medium hot oven to bake; when done remove it from oven and pour a little good brandy in center, sides and openings and serve warm. Mince pies will keep in a cool place for two weeks, but they should always be put for 10 or 15 minutes in the oven to heat through before serving. For a large quantity of mince meat put 8 pounds beef off the round in a kettle of boiling water, add 1 tablespoonful salt and boil till tender; when done remove the kettle from the fire and set aside to cool; then take out the meat, remove all skin, fat and hard part and chop the meat as fine as possible; then weigh the chopped meat and take for each pound the same ingredients as in above recipe; put it away in well closed jars without the apples.

672. +Mock Mince Pie.+-- 3 finely rolled soda crackers, 1 cup well washed currants, 1/2 cup stoned raisins, 1/2 cup finely cut citron, 1/2 teaspoonful ground cloves, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1/2 grated nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1/2 cup sugar, 1/2 cup molasses, 1/2 cup brandy or wine, the juice of 1 orange and a little grated rind, the juice and grated rind of 1/2 lemon and 1/4 pound dried apples; wash and stew the dried apples till tender; add the 1/2 cup sugar and sufficient boiling water to make 3 cupfuls stewed apples; set aside to cool; then mix them first with the rolled soda crackers, by degrees with all the other ingredients and use as directed for pies; sufficient for 3 medium sized pies or 2 large ones. A good plan is to leave a small opening in center of upper crust and when the pies are done pour a little brandy into it.

673. +Apple Pie, No. 1.+-- Line a pie plate with crust as directed (see Directions for Pies); pare, quarter and cut greening or pippin apples into fine slices; fill the plate with apples, sprinkle over some sugar (about 2 tablespoonfuls for a medium sized pie), cover with crust and bake till apples are done and the crust has attained a delicate light brown color. If the flavor is liked a pinch of cinnamon and nutmeg may be added. In the spring of the year the juice of 1/2 lemon squeezed over the apples of each pie is a great improvement, as the apples have lost a great part of their flavor. Apple pies are best when eaten the same day they are baked. If they stand over till next day they should be put in the oven for about 10 minutes 1 hour before serving. They will then be as good as fresh pies; otherwise the crust is apt to be tough.

674. +Apple Pie, No. 2.+-- Make an apple pie the same as in foregoing recipe; put 1/2 tablespoonful butter in small bits over the apples, grate over a very little nutmeg and a pinch of cinnamon, add no sugar, leave a small opening in center of upper crust and bake until done; in the meantime boil 1 cup sugar with 1/2 cup water 5 minutes; when the pie is done put a small funnel in the opening in center of upper crust and pour the syrup carefully through it into the pie; set the pie aside and serve when cold. The pie plate should be deep and large for this pie.

675. +Apple Pie, No. 3.+-- Line a large, deep pie plate with fine pie crust, fill the plate with finely cut tart apples, sprinkle over 1/2 cup sugar, dust over a little flour and cover with crust; leave a small opening in center of upper crust and bake till done; 10 minutes before the pie is taken from the oven put a small funnel in the opening in the center of upper crust and pour carefully 1/2 cup sweet hot cider through the funnel into the pie; when done remove the pie from oven and serve when cold. Another way is:--Stew the apple peels and cores in water till tender; then strain them through a coarse bag, return the liquid to saucepan and boil 10 minutes; then add for 1 cup liquid 1 cup sugar, boil 10 minutes longer and pour the hot syrup into the pie in place of cider.

676. +Apple-Citron Pie.+-- Line a deep pie plate with rich pie crust, fill it with finely cut tart apples, lay small pieces of butter between the apples, sprinkle over each pie 1/2 cup sugar and 1/2 cup finely cut citron, add 2 tablespoonfuls currant or apple jelly, cover with crust and bake till done.

677. +Apple Meringue Pie.+-- Press 1 pint stewed apples through a sieve, sweeten to taste and add the juice of 1/2 lemon, a little grated nutmeg and the yolks of 4 eggs; line a pie plate with crust, cover with buttered paper, fill the plate with dried peas and bake till crust is a light brown; remove paper and peas, fill in the mixture, return pie to oven and bake till done; in the meantime beat the 4 whites to a stiff froth and add 1 tablespoonful powdered sugar and a little essence of lemon; when pie is done draw it to front of oven, spread over the meringue and let it remain for a few minutes longer in oven; then take it out and serve when cold.

678. +Dried Apple Pie.+-- Wash 1/2 pound dried apples, put them in a saucepan with plenty of cold water, cover and place saucepan over the fire and stew till done; then add 1 cup sugar; pour the apples into a dish and set aside; when cold line 2 pie plates with fine pie crust, brush the surface of crust over with beaten egg and sprinkle over some bread or zwieback crumbs; fill in the stewed apples, cover with crust and bake till done. Dried peaches or apricots can be used the same way.