Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11 Historical, Entertaining & Commercial; Alphabetically Arranged. 11 Volume set.

Part 7

Chapter 73,442 wordsPublic domain

[A] AMERSHAM, or Agmondesham is situated on the Misbourne, a branch of the river Colne. The town which is seated in a vale between two wooded hills, consists of a long street on the road from Uxbridge to Wendover; it is intersected about the centre, by a cross street from Chesham to High Wycombe, at the point of which stands the church. The market is held in the Market House, or Town Hall, built by Sir William Drake, about 1680; it is a brick building supported by pillars and arches, with a lanthorn and clock, and said to be the handsomest in the county. Amersham was a parliamentary borough by prescription, but by the Reform Bill of 1832, is now disfranchised. The church was extensively repaired in 1778, in the chancel of which are monuments of the family of the Bents of Leicestershire, who had a seat in the parish; and a monument of Henry, son of Sir Patrick Curwen, Bart., who died in 1638; and also several monuments of the Drake family, in the chancel and the adjoining mausoleum; among which are those of Montague Gerrard, by _Sheemaker_, and the wife of the late Mr. Drake, by Henry Cheere. About a mile northward from the town, is Shardeloes Park, the seat of Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt Drake: the estate was formerly in the possession of the Brudenell's, which family terminated in a peeress, and brought Shardeloes to the Cheynes; afterwards it became the seat of William Totehill, Esq., where he entertained Queen Elizabeth in one of her progresses. Francis Drake, of East Sherwin, Surrey, who was one of the gentlemen of the bedchamber to James I., married Jane, the daughter and heiress of William Totehill, Esq. The mansion is beautifully situated on the brow of a hill, overlooking an immense sheet of water, covering thirty-five acres, and commands a delightful prospect, particularly towards the east, where the town of Amersham, and the surrounding eminences, covered with wood, present a very picturesque appearance. The gardens, formerly much admired for their beauty, were originally formed by Sir William Drake, about 1666, but have been modernized by Richmond, for the late proprietor. Here is also a Free Grammar School, the scholars of which are entitled to three exhibitions in Corpus Christi College, Oxford, bequeathed by Dr. Challoner, a canon of Windsor, in 1620; and likewise four alms houses, with other minor charities. The manufactures are chiefly lace, sacking, and all kinds of white cotton, wrought by machinery; and the markets are well attended.

_Market_, Tuesday.--_Fairs_, Whit-Monday for horned cattle, and September 19, for cattle, and statute.--_Inns_, Crown and Griffin.--_Mail_ arrives 7 A.M., departs 9-1/4 P.M.

[Sidenote: Town Hall, built by Sir W. Drake, 1680.]

[Sidenote: Shardeloes park.]

[Sidenote: Entertainment of Queen Elizabeth.]

[Sidenote: Picturesque views.]

[B] AMESBURY, or Ambresbury, is situated on the river Avon, and is said to derive its name and origin from an abbey, founded by the British Prince Ambrosius; which abbey was subsequently changed into a convent of Benedictine monks, of which some remains are still to be seen. In the parish, and about two miles from the town, is the celebrated British monument, known by the name of Stone-henge. Antiquaries differ in their opinions as to the probable application of this structure; the majority, however, deem it to have been a druidical temple, or a grand tribunal of justice. Out of twenty-four enormous stones, of which the outer circular range appears to have been formed, seventeen are still standing, and seven on the ground; of the inner circle, eleven out of the nineteen of which it was formed are still upright, and the remainder prostrate. The distance of the inner circle from the outer one is about eight feet, forming a walk between the two of about three hundred feet in circumference; the stones are from eighteen to twenty feet high, from six to seven feet broad, and about three feet thick, and there is an appearance of the whole having been surrounded with a trench, over which were three passages. There are numerous barrows and tumuli around it, where many skeletons and military weapons have been discovered. Conjecture has been at a loss to ascertain the means by which such solid masses could have been conveyed, and placed in so elevated a situation without the aid of machinery. It stands near the summit of a hill; even at the distance of half a mile the appearance is awful; but on a nearer approach, the eye is still more delighted with the greatness of its contour. On entering the building, either on foot or horseback, these ruins fill the mind with astonishment, which it is impossible for the pen adequately to describe. Other buildings have fallen by piece-meal--here a single stone is a ruin. As you advance farther, the greatness of every part, and the singular construction of the whole, causes additional surprise. Some authors suppose that this noble temple does not owe its defacement so much to the introduction of Christianity, as to the rude and barbarous hands of the neighbouring peasantry, who have carried away the stones for their own purposes. At a house which occupies part of the ancient nunnery, a society of nuns of St. Augustine, from Flanders, have taken up their abode, probably attracted by the supposed sanctity of the situation. Near the town stands the once celebrated house of the Dukes of Queensbury, built by Inigo Jones, and subsequently improved by the Earl of Burlington. The neighbourhood abounds with clay used for making tobacco pipes, and the river Avon supplies a very much admired species of fish called loach. In the vicinity is a camp, called Vespasians. It consists of a triangular area of 39 acres, defended by a ditch and vallum, and bounded on two sides by the Avon. This may have been occupied by the Romans, but its construction and position indicate a British origin.

_Market_, Friday.--_Mail_ arrives 11 P.M., departs 4 A.M.--_Fair_, May 17, June 22, December 18, for horses, sheep, and horned cattle.--_Inn_, George.

[Sidenote: Founded by the British Prince Ambrosius.]

[Sidenote: Stone-henge.]

[Sidenote: Its awful appearance.]

[Sidenote: Nunnery of St. Augustine.]

[Sidenote: Camp of 39 acres.]

[A] ALMWICH, a seaport town in the parish of the same name, in the hundred of Twerclyn. It is situated on the north coast of the Island of Anglesey; and from a small village (in consequence of the discovery of a rich copper-mine in the Parys mountain) has been augmented into a considerable town: the appearance of this celebrated mountain is very rude; it is bare of vegetation, in consequence of the suffocating fumes which issue from it. The Romans are supposed to have obtained copper ore from this place, as many vestiges of what, it is imagined, were their operations, are still traceable. The great riches of the site were not, however, discovered until March 2, 1768, by the lessees of Sir Nicholas Bayley, afterwards Earl of Uxbridge; and equally successful was the Rev. Edward Hughes, proprietor of another part of the same ridge. The substance of the mountain being ore, it has not been worked in the usual way, by shafts and levels, but by direct excavation. "Nature," Mr. Pennant observes, "hath been profuse in bestowing her mineral favours on this spot, for above the copper ore, and not more than three-quarters of a yard beneath the common soil, is a bed of yellowish greasy clay, from one to four yards thick, containing lead ore, and yielding from six hundred to a thousand pounds weight of lead from one ton; and one ton of the metal yields not less than fifty-seven ounces of silver. Mixed with the earth are frequently certain parts, of the colour of cinnabar; whether these are symptomatic of the sulphurous arsenical silver ores, or of quick-silver, I will not pretend to decide. Something interferes with the successful smelting of this earth in the great, insomuch that it has not yet been of that profit to the adventurers, which might reasonably be expected from the crucible assays of it." From this mountain arises a mineral water, which turns the syrup of violets red, without any signs of chalybeate. To enumerate the mineral substances found from time to time would prove a tedious employment, and perhaps an unimportant one. The following are the principal and most useful:--1. Yellow sulphurated copper ore; 2. Native copper, in small quantities; 3. Sulphate of copper, both chrystallized and in solution; 4. Sulphate of lead, containing a small portion of silver; 5. Black ore, containing copper with galenea, calamine, and some silver; 6. Native sulphur. Not far from Parys Mountain is the port whence the ore brought from the mines is transported to Liverpool and Swansea; it is a chasm between two rocks, large enough to receive thirty vessels, each 200 tons. The two companies employ fifteen brigs, from 100 to 150 tons burden, besides sloops and other craft. The articles exported from these copper mines are principally a coarse copper from the smelting-house, a richer copper ore, dried precipitate of copper from the vitriol pits, refined sulphur, ochre, alum, and green vitriol. Though much improved by the copper companies, this port is so exposed to the swell of the ocean, as to make it difficult and dangerous of access, during the prevalence of high northerly winds.

_Fair_, November 12.

[Sidenote: From this place the Romans obtained copper ore.]

[Sidenote: Lead ore which yields silver also.]

[Sidenote: Various minerals.]

[Sidenote: The port, a chasm between the rocks.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ 15|Ampney Down[A] pa|Gloucester|Cirencester 6|Cricklade 3| 15|Ampney, St. Mary,} | | | | | or Ashbrook } pa|Ditto |Cirencester 4|Fairford 5| 15|Ampney, St. Peter |Ditto |Cirencester 4|Fairford 4| 43|Ampleforth pa & to|N.R. York |Helmsley 4|New Malton 13| 16|Amport pa|Hants |Andover 5|Ludgershall 5| 3|Ampthill[B] m.t. & pa|Bedford |Bedford 8|Woburn 7| 36|Ampton pa|Suffolk |Bury 5|Ixworth 5| +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ |Dist.| Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. +--+---------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ 15|Ampney Down[A] pa|Fairford 4| 85| 463| 15|Ampney, St. Mary,} | | | | | or Ashbrook } pa|Bibury 3| 88| 115| 15|Ampney, St. Peter |Cricklade 5| 86| 180| 43|Ampleforth pa & to|York 18| 223| 623| 16|Amport pa|Salisbury 13| 69| 731| 3|Ampthill[B] m.t. & pa|Toddington 7| 46| 1688| 36|Ampton pa|Thetford 8| 76| 110| +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+

[A] AMPNEY DOWN. The church of this place is very curious, and is said to have been built by the Knights Templars, about the year 1260. Under the window at the south-end of the transept, is the tomb of Sir Nicholas de Villiers and his lady, with their effigies, represented under an arch. The knight is represented as a crusader, in mail and surtout, with his legs crossed, his feet resting on a lion, and his right hand on the hilt of his sword; on his left arm is a shield bearing the Cross of St. George, charged with five escalop-shells. This figure is of hard blue stone; that of the lady is of free-stone, and much mutilated. Below the effigies of the knight is a mutilated inscription in the Saxon character. An ancient mansion, built by the family of the Hungerfords, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, was repaired and modernized, as to its exterior, a few years ago. It belongs, with the manor, to the family of Eliot, of Port Eliot, in Cornwall.

[Sidenote: The church built by the Knights Templars.]

[B] AMPTHILL is situated between two hills in the centre of the county. Here is an obelisk of Portland stone, forming a receptacle for a pump; and also a Gothic cross, which was erected in 1744, to the memory of Catherine of Arragon, by the Earl of Upper Ossory, who was then proprietor of Ampthill Park, at a former period the residence of that ill-treated Queen. This park, which lies to the west of the town, is now the seat of Lord Holland; it was constituted a royal domain by Henry VIII., who conferred a name on the annexed estates, the "Honour of Ampthill;" the old castle in which Queen Catherine resided, stood on a more elevated ground than the present mansion, which is a magnificent structure, with wings, and a flight of steps leading to a handsome hall; the park, which is now united with that of Houghton, is spacious, and presents several most delightful prospects. At the entrance of Ampthill Park there is a pear tree, under which it is reported that Sir Philip Sydney wrote a part of his Arcadia.

_Mail_ arrives 6 A.M.. departs 8-1/2 P.M.--_Fairs_, May 4, and November 30, for cattle.--_Inn_, White Hart.

[Sidenote: Under a pear-tree in Ampthill park Sir Philip Sydney wrote part of his Arcadia.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | +--+--------------------+---------+------------+-------------+ 57|Amroth[A] pa|Pembroke |Narbeth 6|Tenby 6| 18|Amwell, Great[B] pa|Hertford |Ware 1|Hoddesdon 3| 18|Amwell, Little chap|Hertford |Ware 1|Hoddesdon 3| 24|Ancaster[C] pa|Lincoln |Grantham 6|Sleaford 8| 13|Ancroft chap|Durham |Berwick 6|Coldstream 10| 24|Anderby pa|Lincoln |Alford 6|Spilsby 10| 32|Anderson, or | | | | | Anderstone pa|Dorset |Blandford 7|Bere Regis 3| 7|Anderton pa|Chester |Northwich 2|Warrington 9| 22|Anderton pa|Lancaster|Wigan 3|Bolton 4| 36|Andover[D] m.t. & pa|Hants |Salisbury 18|Stockbridge 7| +--+--------------------+---------+------------+-------------+ |Dist.| Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. +--+--------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ 57|Amroth[A] pa|Llaugharne 10| 251| 654| 18|Amwell, Great[B] pa|Hertford 3| 20| 1321| 18|Amwell, Little chap|Hertford 3| 20| 369| 24|Ancaster[C] pa|Newark 14| 116| 491| 13|Ancroft chap|Wooler 10| 253| 1384| 24|Anderby pa|Saltfleet 12| 142| 217| 32|Anderson, or | | | | | Anderstone pa|Poole 12| 110| 54| 7|Anderton pa||Knutsford 6| 175| 327| 22|Anderton pa|Chorley 5| 201| 343| 36|Andover[D] m.t. & pa|Whitchurch 7| 64| 4843| +--+--------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+

[A] AMROTH. The castle of Amroth, now modernized, from the house formerly called Eare Wear, was in the 15th century, a settlement of the Elliott's. The present proprietor is Captain Ackland, by purchase, from a female representative of the Elliotts. The most judiciously assimilating additions have been made so as to give it every appendage of convenience and luxury. The antique porch is nicely preserved. The conservatory and grapery are entered from the dining-rooms, which was once a vaulted roofed ale cellar, or castle prison. A portion of this vault remains unaltered. From the lawn is a beautiful and interesting view of Tenby. The church of Amroth, on the road to Ludchurch, is situated on a limestone rock, which has been reduced on every side, and is remarkable for a curiously disposed tower.

[Sidenote: View of Tenby.]

[B] GREAT AMWELL is supposed to have derived its name from Emma's Well, a pure water-fountain that issues from a hill, and forms one of the sources of the New River. Here is a monument erected by Mr. Milne, to the ill-requited Sir Hugh Middleton, in a small islet formed by the said river. Sir Hugh, notwithstanding the assistance afforded him by Parliament, and the City of London, ruined himself by procuring supplies of water to the metropolis. Great mystery envelopes the latter period of his life. It is traditionally reported that he retired to the village of Kemberton, near Shiffnall, in Shropshire, where he resided some time in great indigence, under the assumed name of Raymond, and it is said that during such residence he was actually employed in paving the streets. The poet Warner, author of "Albion's England," lies interred here. The church is situated on an eminence, the picturesque beauty of which has been justly celebrated by the admirable poet, usually denominated Scott of Amwell, from his residence in the village, and the title of his poem.

[Sidenote: Emma's Well, one of sources of the New River]

[Sidenote: Indigence of Sir Hugh Middleton.]

[C] ANCASTER. This parish is situated on the great Roman road, called Ermin-street, and bears strong evidence of having been a Roman station; many authors unite to fix here the ancient Causennæ. It occupies a low situation, and at the north end flows a small brook. From the vestiges which remain of military works it has certainly been a place of great strength. A great number of coins, and other antiquities, have been found here in such quantities, as to become a source of considerable emolument to the inhabitants of the place; so much so, that at one time many became extensive dealers in them. These coins are of various Emperors. Several mosaic pavements have also been discovered here. It is highly probable from these circumstances, that Ancaster was the Causennæ of Antoninus. About the town are several quarries of stone, which is found very near the surface. Ancaster once gave the title of Duke to the head of the Bertie family, but that Dukedom is now extinct.

[Sidenote: Mosaic pavements.]

[D] ANDOVER, situated on the river Anton, is supposed to have been the Andaoreon of the Romans; and this opinion seems to have been countenanced by the remains of several ancient encampments in the neighbourhood, and by the Roman road, which runs from Winchester to Cirencester, and passes through the town. The antiquity of the corporation is as remote as the reign of John, but the present charter was granted by Queen Elizabeth; the town is extensive, and two of the streets are handsome and wide. There is a spacious town-hall, supported by arches, under which the weekly market is held. The church, situated at the north of the town, is a large Gothic building, consisting of a nave, side aisles, and chancel, with a transept on the north, and a low tower rising from the centre; it existed in the time of the Conqueror, and is dedicated to St. Mary. Within four miles of the town is held the great annual fair of Weyhill, which, as it lasts for a week, causes much circulation of money in Andover. In addition to the many small Roman encampments in the immediate neighbourhood, there is a very large one on the summit of Bury Hill, about two miles to the S.S.W.

_Market_, Saturday.--_Mail_ arrives 2-3/4 A.M., departs 11-3/4 P.M.--_Fairs_, Friday and Saturday after Mid-Lent, for cheese, horses, and leather; May 17, November 13, for sheep, horses, leather, and cheese.--_Bankers_, T. & W. Heath, draw on Masterman and Co.--_Inns_, Star and Garter, and White Hart.

[Sidenote: Weyhill Fair.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | +--+-------------------------+-----------+-----------+--------------+ 54|Andrew, St. pa|Glamorgan |Cardiff 5|Llandaff 5| 54|Andrew, St. Minor pa|Glamorgan |Cowbridge 3|Bridgend 6| 36|Andrew, St. Ilketshall pa|Suffolk |Bungay 4|Beccles 4| 34|Angersleigh pa|Somerset |Taunton 4|Wellington 4| 29|Angerton (High) to|Northumb |Morpeth 9|Hartburn 1| 29|Angerton, (Low) to|Northumb | ... 9| ... 2| 57|Angle pa|Pembroke |Pembroke 9|Milford by W 6| 47|Anglesey, Isle of[A] |North Wales| | | 22|Anglezarke to|Lancaster |Bolton 6|Chorley 5| +--+-------------------------+-----------+-----------+--------------+ |Dist. Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. +--+-------------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ 54|Andrew, St. pa|Cowbridge 8| 165| 474| 54|Andrew, St. Minor pa|Cardiff 15| 175| 16| 36|Andrew, St. Ilketshall pa|Halesworth 7| 106| 512| 34|Angersleigh pa|Ilminster 11| 145| 54| 29|Angerton (High) to|Rothbury 12| 290| 64| 29|Angerton, (Low) to| ... 13| 289| 55| 57|Angle pa|The Lightho. 4| 264| 458| 47|Anglesey, Isle of[A] | | | 48328| 22|Anglezarke to|Blackburn 9| 203| 168| +--+-------------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+