Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11 Historical, Entertaining & Commercial; Alphabetically Arranged. 11 Volume set.

Part 32

Chapter 323,349 wordsPublic domain

[A] BELCHAMP, or Belchamp Wallers, in the hundred of Hinckford, lies north-east by north from Castle Headingham. The church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is lofty and neat, and contains an orchestra, with a fine toned organ. Here is a capacious vault which belongs to the Raymond family; and an elegant marble monument dedicated to them in the chancel. Mrs. Raymond has established in this village a Sunday school for fifty children belonging to the poor. Belchamp Hall, in this parish, is the residence of the Raymond's, one of whose ancestors came into England with the Conqueror, and whose family have resided in this neighbourhood upwards of two centuries. The house is a substantial and commodious building, whose principal or south-eastern front is for the most part composed of foreign bricks. It is situated on a pleasant lawn, sloping gradually to a small river, within 200 yards of the front. A spacious and extensive terrace, skirted with lofty trees, at the end of which is an ancient building, ornamented with painted glass, lies to the south. At the other end is a lofty mount, with another ornamental building on its summit. This mansion contains an interesting collection of pictures by some of the most esteemed masters; among them are the following:--The Wise Men's Offering, an altar-piece; Albert Durer. This picture, with a large gun, some pistols, and powder flasks, inlaid with gold and ivory, were presented to the Raymonds, by Sir William Harris, a sea-officer, who took them, with other property, on the defeat of the Spanish Armada, in 1588. A three-quarter portrait of Sir Hugh Middleton, Bart., in whose public spirit the New river originated, and another of his wife, are both by Cornelius Jansen. Goldingham Hall, in the parish of Bulmer, adjoining Belchamp, was the residence of Sir Hugh.

[Sidenote: Belchamp Hall.]

[B] BELFORD is a little market town pleasantly situated on the side of a hill about two miles from the river Lear, and being a post-town, and on the great north road, has several good inns. The buildings in general are neat, and the church is a handsome structure, erected in 1700. Near this place on a rising ground, are the ruins of an ancient chapel, surrounded by several tall oaks; and at a little distance, are the remains of a Danish camp, apparently of great strength, surrounded by a deep ditch. The annual races formerly run at Beadnall, now take place at this town.

_Market_, Tuesday--_Fairs_, Tuesday before Whit-Sunday, and August 23, for black cattle, sheep, and horses. The Edinburgh Mail arrives 7.49 morning; departs 3.36 afternoon.--_Inn_, Blue Bell.

[C] BELLEAU. At this place, which takes it name from the excellent springs that issue from the chalk hills in the neighbourhood, are the ruins of what is called the Abbey. These consist of part of a turret, and two gateways, which convey an idea of its being a place of considerable importance. The walls are covered with ivy, and overhung with lofty ash trees. After the civil war, this place was granted to the eccentric Sir Harry Vane, who used to amuse himself on Sundays in assembling here his country neighbours, to whom he addressed his pious discourses. The church of Belleau is said, by Gough, to have been attached to the neighbouring monastery of Ailby; but neither Tanner nor the Monasticon mention such a religious house.

[Sidenote: Abbey Ruins.]

[A] BELLINGHAM, lies N. N W. from Hexham. It gave name to an ancient family, who were seated here in 1378. Some ruins of their castle still remain. The chapel, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is roofed with stone arches in rib-work: there are many gravestones in its floor, sculptured with swords, and other warlike emblems. Nearly opposite, on the south side of the North Tyne, is Heslieside, the seat of the Charlton family, since the time of Edward the Sixth. The old mansion-house, built after the manner of Lowther Hall, in Westmoreland, was burnt down about eighty years ago, and then rebuilt. The present edifice stands on a gentle eminence: the grounds are well wooded, and diversified with fine sheep-walks; and the gardens and fruit walls are very productive. Five miles above this place is Falstone chapel; and about seven miles further up is Keelder Castle, formerly the residence of a famous border chieftain, but at present a shooting-box of the Duke of Northumberland. The moors here are scattered over with cairns, tumuli, and Druidical monuments. Of Tarset Hall, about two miles above Heslieside, only some slight remains are visible. Of Chipchase Castle, the old tower still remains. Its roof is built on corbels, and it has openings through which to throw down stones or scalding water upon an enemy. The tattered fragments of Gothic painting on the walls, are exceedingly curious. Soon after it came to the family, (its present owners,) the mansion was thoroughly repaired, and much improved; the chapel on the lawn was rebuilt, the gardens made, and the grounds covered with extensive plantations. This delightful residence is surrounded with scenery of the richest and most enchanting kind. The rooms in it are fitted up in a splendid style, and ornamented with several excellent paintings. A bridge was erected over the Burn at the east end of the town in 1826.

_Market_, Tuesday.--_Fair_, Saturday after September 15, for cattle, sheep, linen and woollen cloth.

[Sidenote: Chipchase Castle.]

[B] BELPER, or Belpar, anciently Beaupoire, is situated on the banks of the Derwent, in the hundred of Appletree. It is a chapelry of Duffield; and, though formerly an inconsiderable village, its population now exceeds, with the exception of Derby, every other town in the county. The great increase of population began from three large cotton mills of Messrs. Strutts, the first of which was erected in 1776. Two of them yet remain; but the third was destroyed by fire early in the year 1803. The largest of these mills is 200 feet long, 300 feet wide, and six stories high: it is considered fire proof, as the floor is built on brick arches, and paved with brick. The two water-wheels, which are employed in the machinery in this building, are remarkable for magnitude and singularity of construction; one of them being 40 feet long, and 18 in diameter; and the other 48 feet long, and 12 feet in diameter. As timber could not be procured large enough to form the axles of these wheels in the common manner, they are constructed circularly and hollow, of a number of pieces, and hooped in the manner of a cask. One of the shafts is six feet in diameter, and the other nine. The shuttles are constructed in one piece, so as to support the lateral pressure of the water, although it is ten feet deep, by resting one upon another. This is different from the usual mode of construction, in which they are supported by large perpendicular beams at every six or seven feet, in order to sustain this lateral pressure. About twelve or thirteen hundred people are employed at these mills; and the proprietors have built many houses, and a chapel, for their accommodation. Near the mills a stone bridge of three arches has been erected across the Derwent, at the expence of the county, the former one having been washed down by a dreadful flood, in 1795. At a short distance, lower down the river, is a bleaching mill, belonging to the same proprietors; an iron forge, and two cotton mills; one of them constructed like that before described. A stone bridge was also erected here by these gentlemen in 1792. These mills afford regular employment to about 600 persons. A Sunday school has been established here, and another at Belper, for the instruction of the children employed at the cotton works.

_Market_, Saturday.--_Mail_ arrives 1.30 afternoon; departs 8.45 morning.

[Sidenote: Manufactories.]

[Sidenote: Cotton Mills.]

[A] BELTON. The church is a small ancient structure. The tower appears to have been rebuilt in the year 1637, and at a subsequent period, the chancel has been renewed. The church is extremely neat, and has in the south window six pieces of stained glass, illustrative of scriptural subjects. Within the nave are several splendid monuments. Belton House, near Grantham, the residence of Earl Brownlow, is situated on a beautiful lawn, in a wooded valley, through which the river Witham winds its course. The mansion was built in the year 1689, from designs by Sir Christopher Wren. The form of the building is that of the letter H, a stile of architecture peculiar to that period. It is of stone, and presents four uniform elevations. The apartments are lofty, and well proportioned. Several of the rooms are highly ornamented with carving by Gibbons. The late Lord Brownlow made considerable improvements in the mansion. He took down the cupola and balustrade from the roof. The drawing room was considerably enlarged, and a new entrance at the south front made. Here are many pictures by celebrated masters of the Flemish and Italian schools, with numerous family portraits by Lely, Reynolds, Kneller, Romney and others. Among the latter we may remark a portrait of Sir John Cust, Bart., Speaker of the House of Commons, in his robes, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. William III. in his progress through the northern counties, honoured Belton House with his presence. The park comprises an area of five miles in circumference, inclosed by a wall; numerous plantations of fine trees are highly ornamental to the place. Sir John Brownlow, K.B. afterwards Viscount Tyrconnel, enriched the library with a valuable collection of books; he also formed some extensive gardens, which have since been more adapted to the modern taste in gardening.

[Sidenote: Belton House.]

[B] BELVOIR. The Castle is one of the most magnificent structures in the kingdom. It is placed on an abrupt elevation of a kind of natural cliff, forming the termination of a peninsular hill. It has been the seat of Manners, Dukes of Rutland, for several generations, and claims the priority of every other building in the county in which it is situated. Belvoir has been the site of a Castle ever since the Norman conquest; and its possessors have been chiefly persons of eminence who have figured in the pages of history. The view from the terraces and towers comprehends the whole vale of Belvoir and the adjoining country as far as Lincoln, including twenty-two of the Duke of Rutland's manors. On the southern slope of the hill are enclosed-terraces, on which there are several flower-gardens, surrounded by shrubberies. The park is of great extent, containing fine forest trees, which form a woodland beneath the hill so extensive as to afford shelter for innumerable rooks. Its interior and furniture is of the most superb and costly description; it also contains one of the most valuable collections of paintings in this country, whether considered for the variety of the schools, or the works of each master. A conflagration took place in the year 1816, which consumed a great portion of the ancient part of the castle, and several of the pictures. A curious anecdote is related, illustrative of the folly and superstition of ancient times, which may not be uninteresting to add. Joan Flower and her two; daughters who were servants at Belvoir Castle, having been dismissed the family, in revenge made use of all the enchantments, spells, and charms that were at that time supposed to answer their malicious purposes. Henry the eldest son died soon after their dismissal, but no suspicion of witchcraft arose till five years after, when the three women who are said to have entered into a formal contract with the devil, were accused of "murdering Lord Henry Ross by witchcraft and torturing the Lord Francis his brother and Lady Catherine his sister." After various examinations they were committed to Lincoln gaol. The mother died at Ancaster, on her way thither, having wished the bread and butter she ate might choak her if she was guilty. The daughters were tried before Sir Henry Hobbert, Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, and Sir Edward Bromley, one of the Barons of the Exchequer; they confessed their guilt and were executed at Lincoln, March 11, 1618.

[Sidenote: The Castle.]

[Sidenote: Charge of witchcraft.]

[A] BEMERTON, a parish in the hundred of Branch and Dole. The rectory of this place is interesting, as having been the residence of no less than four celebrated characters, viz. Dr. Walter Curie, Bishop of Bath and Wells, and afterwards of Winchester, who died in 1647; George Herbert, called the divine, who died in 1635; John Norris, a metaphysical writer, who died in 1711; and, lastly, Mr. Archdeacon Coxe, the traveller and historian, who died in 1828: all of them gentlemen highly distinguished in the annals of literature.

[Sidenote: Celebrated men.]

[B] BENEFIELD. In this parish are some remarkable cavities, called Swallows, which have opened a wide field of speculation among philosophers, who have grounded, upon the singular phenomena they exhibit, some new systems with regard to the theory of the earth. These swallows are situated about a furlong west of the village, and are nine in number. Through these cavities, the land-flood waters constantly pass and disappear. They are of a circular form, and of various diameters; some having an oblique, and others a perpendicular descent, opening beneath the apertures into large spaces, which exhibit several smaller conduits, through which the waters pass, to join perhaps, some subterranean river, or mingle with the grand abyss of waters, which some philosophers have placed in the centre of the earth.

[Sidenote: Geological curiosities.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ 5|Bengers ham|Bucks |Colnbrook 3|Uxbridge 3| 21|Beneden[A] pa|Kent |Cranbrook 3|Tenterden 5| 13|Benfield-Side ham|Durham |Durham 12|Newcastle 13| 14|Benfleet, North pa|Essex |Rayleigh 4|Billericay 6| 14|Benfleet, South[B] pa|Essex | ... 4| ... 9| 18|Bengeo pa|Hertford |Hertford 1|Ware 2| 15|Bengrove ham|Gloucester|Tewkesbury 6|Evesbam 7| 42|Bengworth pa|Worcester |Worchester 16|Pershore 7| 36|Benhall pa|Suffolk |Saxmundham 2|Frainlingh 5| 4|Benham to|Berks |Newbury 3|Hungerford 6| 4|Benham-Hoe ham|Berks | ... 4| ... 6| 44|Benningborough to|N.R. York |York 7|Boro'bridge 8| 46|Benningholme to|E.R. York |Beverly 7|Hornsea 7| 18|Bennington pa|Hertford |Stevenage 5|Buntingford 6| 24|Bennington pa|Lincoln |Boston 5|Wainfleet 12| 24|Bennington-Long[C] pa|Lincoln |Grantham 7|Newark 7| +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ |Dist.| Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. +--+---------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ 5|Bengers ham|Slough 4| 18| | 21|Beneden[A] pa|Rolvenden 3| 51| 1663| 13|Benfield-Side ham|Wolsingham 12| 270| 543| 14|Benfleet, North pa|Southend 6| 29| 300| 14|Benfleet, South[B] pa| ... 6| 32| 533| 18|Bengeo pa|Watton 5| 22| 855| 15|Bengrove ham|Pershore 7| 101| | 42|Bengworth pa|Broadway 5| 100| 850| 36|Benhall pa|Woodbridge 3| 89| 668| 4|Benham to|Kinbury 3| 59| | 4|Benham-Hoe ham| ... 4| 60| | 44|Benningborough to|Wetherby 10| 204| 93| 46|Benningholme to|Hull 8| 182| 103| 18|Bennington pa|Watton 3| 29| 631| 24|Bennington pa|Burgh 16| 121| 500| 24|Bennington-Long[C] pa|Leadenham 8| 116| 982| +--+---------------------+----------+------------+------+-------+

[A] BENENDEN, or Biddenden, three miles south east from Cranbrook, is at present populous, though the clothing manufacture, which first occasioned the increase of the population of this part of the county, in the reign of Edward the Third, has for many years failed here. Several good houses still remaining, discover the prosperity of the former inhabitants. The church is a handsome regular building, and its tower a structure of considerable height and strength. By the old part now remaining, it appears to have been originally but small. The interior contains several ancient brasses, and among them, one for the Goldwells of Great Chart; with the dates 1452, and 1499, in Arabic numerals: the rebus of this name, a golden fountain, or well, is also in one of the windows. A free grammar school, now degenerated into a complete sinecure, was founded here in the year 1522. There is a tradition in this parish, that a bequest for the use of the poor, of 20 acres of land, now called the Bread and Cheese land, lying in five pieces, was given by two maiden sisters, commonly called the "Biddenden Maids," of the name of Chulkhurst, "who were born joined together by the hips and shoulders, in the year 1100;" and having lived in that state thirty-four years, died within about six hours of each other. This tale is affected to be established by the correspondent figures of two females impressed on cakes, which after Divine service, in the afternoon, on every Easter Sunday, are distributed to all comers, and not unfrequently to the number from 800 to 1000. At the same time, about 270 loaves, weighing three pounds and a half each, and cheese in proportion, are given to the poor parishioners; the whole expence being defrayed from the rental of the bequeathed lands. The marvellous part of the story however, was wholly discredited by the well informed, until the visit of the Siamese twins to this country revived it with some appearance of truth.

[Sidenote: The Biddenden maids.]

[B] BENFLEET lies south-west by south from Rayleigh. Here was a castle, built by Hastings, the celebrated Danish pirate, and which building Matthew of Westminster described, as having deep and wide ditches. This fortress Alfred the Great took and destroyed in the year 890; Hasting's wife and two sons taken therein, were sent to London. The creeks entering the Thames round Benfleet are celebrated for their oysters.

[Sidenote: A pirate's castle.]