Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11 Historical, Entertaining & Commercial; Alphabetically Arranged. 11 Volume set.

Part 28

Chapter 283,265 wordsPublic domain

[A] BEAMINSTER is a town of very great antiquity; it is situated on a fertile spot near the banks of the small river Birt. The prebendaries of Salisbury were formerly lords of the manor, until the parliamentary commissioners (who appear to have made very free with church property) seized it, and for a time it passed into other hands, but it was only for a time: the right at length became acknowledged, and in the possession of the prebendaries of Sarum it now remains. This town has suffered much by the devastation of fire, and still more by the destructive sword of civil, or rather uncivil, warfare. Britton speaks of a record of the former being preserved in a blank leaf of an old Bible, in the possession of a gentleman of this town, which memorandum ran as follows:--"The towne of Beaminster was burnt on Palme Sunday, being the 14th day of April, and in the year of our Lord 1644. At the same time prince Maurice, being in the towne seven dayes before the fire, and there continued till the fire burnt him out of his quarters. The fire was first kindled in John Sergeant's house, in North-street; it was a musket discharged in the gable; and it was wild-fire, and the winde lying directly with the towne, the whole place was destroyed in two hours; and those goods for the most part which were saved out of the fire were carried away by the soldiers. There were seven score and four dwelling-houses, besides barns and stables, burnt." An eye-witness in Sir Thomas Fairfax's army describes it as "a place of the pitifullest spectacle that man can behold; hardly a house left not consumed by fire." Two thousand pounds were granted by the parliament to assist in re-building the town: this, with other sums, raised by the neighbouring gentry, answered the purpose. But it appears that the place was doomed to destruction, for in June, 1684, it was again consumed, and the loss is said to have amounted to £10,000.: nor did its misfortunes end here, for in the gusty month of March, in the year 1781, upwards of fifty dwelling-houses, besides barns, stables, and other buildings, were reduced to ruins in the short space of three hours. Mrs. Tucker founded a free-school here, in 1684, for the purpose of affording education to twenty of the poorest boys in the town; three or four of these boys were to be apprenticed annually, and it is necessary that one of these, at least, should become a seaman. The Rev. Mr. Samuel Hood, father of Lord Hood, was master of this school in the year 1715. The inhabitants are principally engaged in the manufacture of sail-cloth, and in the production of iron, tin, and copper ware. The work-house is a large commodious building; formerly an alms-house.

_Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, April 4; September 19, for horses, sheep, and cattle.

[Sidenote: Destroyed by fire in 1644.]

[Sidenote: Burnt down in 1684, and again in 1781.]

[B] BEAUDESERT. This place is situated in the hundred of Barlichway. The church is dedicated to St. Nicholas, and exhibits some good specimens of ancient architecture. The village was the birth-place of Richard Jago, the poet, who was the son of the rector: he was born in 1715, and was educated at Solihull grammar-school, about eleven miles distant from this place. His first poetical production which attracted notice was an "Elegy on the Death of a Blackbird," and this was followed by a poem, descriptive of the "Battle of Edgehill," which is considered the most finished of his works: the subject was in all probability suggested by his residence in the neighbourhood of the scene of action. He died on the 8th of April, 1781.

[A] BEAULIEU. The river Exe, over which there is a bridge, is navigable up to this village. Here is a manufacture of coarse sacking. The ruins of Beaulieu Abbey are beautifully situated on the eastern banks of the river. The delightful valley which surrounds these venerable remains, is of a circular form, bounded by well-wooded hills, and in itself, consists of a rich variety of ground. The Abbey was founded, A.D. 1204, by King John, for monks of the Cistercian order; a class of friars to which that monarch had been previously particularly adverse. The king, it is said, after various oppressive measures exercised against the Cistercians, summoned the Abbots and principals of that order, to Lincoln, whither they hastened, flattering themselves that he would there confer upon them some marks of his grace and favor. Instead of this, say the monkish historians, "the savage monarch ordered the Abbots to be trodden to death, by horses: but none of his attendants being found sufficiently cruel to obey the sanguinary command, the ecclesiastics, dreadfully alarmed, retired hastily to their inn. In the course of the ensuing night, when the monarch slumbered on his bed, he dreamt that he was standing before a Judge, accompanied by the Cistercian Abbots, who were commanded to scourge him severely with rods and thongs; and when he awoke in the morning, he declared that he still felt the smart of the beating. On relating this dream to a certain ecclesiastic of his court, he was advised to crave pardon of the Abbots, whom he had before so barbarously treated; and assured, that the Almighty had been infinitely merciful to him, in thus revealing the mysteries of his dispensations, and affording him paternal correction. The king, adopting this counsel, ordered the Abbots to attend him; and, contrary to their expectations, received them with kindness:" and the remembrance of his dream still continuing to influence his conduct, he shortly after granted a charter for the foundation of the Abbey of Beaulieu. It was greatly enriched by succeeding grants; and at the Dissolution, its possessions were estimated at the annual value of £428. 6s. 8d. The manor of Beaulieu, with all its rights, privileges, and appurtenances, (the rectory and right of patronage excepted), was granted to Thomas Wriothesley, Esq. afterwards Earl of Southampton. The circumference of the manor embraces an extent of 28 miles, and the clear annual revenue amounts to between £4000 and £5000. The immediate precincts of the Abbey were encircled by a stone wall, the remains of which are richly mantled with ivy. An edifice, nearly square, now called the palace, but originally built for the Abbot's lodging, was converted into a family seat after the Dissolution. Over the entrance is a canopied niche, in which stood the image of the Virgin Mary. The hall is a well proportioned room, handsomely vaulted, the ribs springing from pilasters, and spreading over the roof in beautiful ramifications. Eastward from this edifice is a long building, supposed from the extent and height of the apartments, to have been the dormitory; beneath it are several good cellars. The ancient kitchen is also standing, and near it is the refectory, a plain stone edifice, with strong buttresses: this is now the parish church of Beaulieu; the Abbey church, which stood to the north-east, having been entirely destroyed. On the west side is the ancient rostrum, or pulpit, from which lectures were read when the monks were assembled at their meals below. The site of the Abbey Church may be traced by the unevenness of the ground; but not a vestige of the building is remaining. Fragments of demolished tombs are occasionally dug up here, this having been the burial-place of various illustrious and noble personages, and among them, Queen Eleanor, mother of King John. Some traces of the cloisters are yet distinguishable. Whilst Beaulieu Abbey was invested with the privilege of a sanctuary, its walls afforded a temporary protection to Margaret of Anjou, Queen of Henry VI.; who, returning from the continent, in expectation of being reinstated in her former dignity, was informed of the imprisonment of her husband, the destruction of his army, and the death of the Earl of Warwick, and the elevation to the throne of Edward IV. Another celebrated fugitive, to whom this abbey afforded sanctuary, was Perkin Warbeck, who, after many vicissitudes, was executed at Tyburn, in 1499.

[Sidenote: The Abbey founded by King John.]

[Sidenote: The king's singular dream.]

[Sidenote: The manor extends 28 miles.]

[Sidenote: Burial place of Queen Eleanor.]

[A] BEAUMARIS, though but a small place, is the capital of the island; it is finely situated on a low shore, called Beaumaris Bay. The present town appears to have originated from the circumstance of a castle having been erected here about the close of the 13th century, by Edward I. It lies close to the town, covering a large space of ground, in a low situation. Its erection was subsequent to its proud rivals Conway and Caernarvon. The necessity of the present castle arose from Rhyddlan, upon the opposite shore, being often possessed by the Welsh princes. It appears to have been the last of the three great fortresses erected by Edward. On the conquest of Wales in 1295, he fixed upon this spot with a view of surrounding it with a fosse, for the double purpose of defence, and bringing small craft to unload their cargoes under its walls, by a canal, part of which was, till lately, remaining. From the period of its erection to the time of Charles I., it does not appear to have been at all conspicuous on the page of history. A communication was made between various parts of the inner court, by means of a surrounding gallery, about six feet wide, a considerable portion of which is yet entire. Within recesses, in the sides of the gallery, are several square apertures, apparently once furnished with trap doors, which opened into rooms beneath; but their use has not been ascertained. Mr. Grose thinks they might have been used for the purposes of imprisonment. A tennis, fives court, and bowling-green, have been formed within the interior. The town of Beaumaris was surrounded with walls, for its defence, and placed under the government of a corporation, endowed with various privileges and lands. Mr. Lloyd supposes, from local tokens being circulated by opulent tradesmen, about the year 1650, of which he had several in his possession, that it was a place of considerable traffic. The present town consists of several streets, of which one terminated by the castle is handsome, and the houses are generally well built. Beaumaris is much frequented during the summer months, by numerous genteel families, attracted by the pleasantness of this part of the island, and to avail themselves of the benefit of sea-bathing. The parochial church is a handsome structure, consisting of a chancel, nave, and two aisles, with a large square embattled tower. In the vestry adjoining were deposited the remains of lady Beatrice Herbert, daughter of the celebrated mirror of chivalry, the Lord Herbert of Cherbury. Near which lies interred the Rev. Gronwy Davies, with an inscription concluding as follows:

"Here lies learning, friendship, love; And innocency of the dove. Within this grave and in the dust His ever courteous body must Until the resurrection lie; Then he shall live and death shall die."

The free-school was erected and liberally endowed by David Hughes, Esq., in the year 1603, who ten years afterwards founded also an excellent alms-house for six poor persons, to whom he granted small annuities. He was born about the middle of the 16th century, in a cottage now in ruins. He left the island early in life, in a very humble station, but by prudence and propriety of conduct, he made a decent fortune.

"'T is here the active worth of Hughes appears, A blessed asylum for the wreck of years! If there his views the opening mind engage, Here he supports the trembling limbs of age; His breast embrac'd within his godlike plan, At once the morn and evening hours of man! And ye who here his lasting bounty share, Whose tranquil days decline without a care! If still, as night shall close, day greet your eyes, No grateful aspirations reach the skies, Indignant heaven beholds you with a frown, Nor gives the ingrate, life's immortal crown." LLOYD.

The old town-hall, built in 1563, has been taken down, and under the patronage of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, another more elegant has been erected upon its site. The town, re-incorporated in the 4th year of Elizabeth, is governed by a mayor, recorder, two bailiffs, twenty-four burgessess, two serjeants at mace, a town clerk, jailor, four constables, and a water-bailiff. The county hall is a small low building, being neither conveniently formed nor respectable in its appearance. The custom-house stands upon the green near the edge of the water. Beaumaris bay consists of an expansive opening in front of the town, so sheltered by the island of Priesholme and the great Ormeshead, as to allow vessels of considerable burden to ride in safety, during the most stormy weather. The depth of water near the town, at ebb-tide, is from six to seven fathoms, but the channel scarcely exceeds a quarter of a mile in breadth. The greater part of the bay is left dry for several miles when the tide is out, which part is called the Lavan Sands. These once formed a habitable hundred, belonging to the territory of Arson. They were formerly called Wylofaen, or the place of Weeping, from the shrieks and lamentations of the inhabitants at the time when the land was overwhelmed by the sea. Lavan is a corruption of Traeth Talaven, or the fermented heap, allusive to the boiling up of water in the quicksands. The ferry was granted by charter to the corporation in the 4th year of Elizabeth: it lies near the town. The place of embarking or landing is the point anciently known under the appellation of Penrhyn Safness, but afterwards Osmund's Air, from a malefactor, who on his way to execution, being asked where he was going, answered, "To take the air." The walk over the sand at low water is firm and good; they should be passed three hours after high water, and will be safe for four hours; or in other words, two hours before low water and two after. Precautions are essentially necessary to be taken, for near the times of the sands being covered by the sea they are frequently shifting, and in many places become so watery or quick, as to have proved both dangerous and fatal. This way is equally perilous in foggy weather, but as some persons are necessitated to pass in every season, the large bell at Aber is humanely rung, to direct them towards the sound.

_Market_, Wednesday and Saturday.--_Fairs_, Feb. 13, Holy Thursday, Sept. 19, and Dec. 19, for cattle.--_Inn_, Bull's Head.

[Sidenote: Chief town in Anglesea.]

[Sidenote: Much frequented in summer.]

[Sidenote: Its government.]

[Sidenote: Lavan sands]

[Sidenote: Caution.]