Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11 Historical, Entertaining & Commercial; Alphabetically Arranged. 11 Volume set.

Part 2

Chapter 22,966 wordsPublic domain

[C] ABERAVON is situated at the mouth of the river Avon, on Swansea Bay, and has a harbour for small vessels. Although no charter exists for a market, one has been held here, more than a century past. There is a ridiculous belief, amongst the people of this place, that every Christmas Day, and that day alone, a large salmon presents himself in the river, and allows himself to be caught and handled by any one who chooses; but it would be considered an act of impiety to detain him.

_Fair_, April 30.

[Sidenote: Singular account of a Salmon.]

[D] ABERCONWAY is an ancient fortified town, beautifully situated upon the estuary of the river Conway. The town is nearly of a triangular shape, and is thought by some to have been the Conovium of the Romans. The annals of this place commence no earlier than with the history of its castle, which was erected in 1284, by command of Edward I., as a security against the insurrections of the Welsh. Soon after its erection, the royal founder was besieged in it, and the garrison almost reduced by famine to surrender, when they were extricated by the arrival of a fleet with provision. At the commencement of the civil wars, it was garrisoned on behalf of the king, by Dr. John Williams, Archbishop of York. In 1645 he gave the government of the castle to his nephew, William Hookes. Two years after, Prince Rupert superseded the Archbishop in the command of North Wales. He endeavoured to obtain redress from the king, but failed. Enraged at this injury, he joined Mytton, and assisted in the reduction of the place. The town was taken by storm, August 15, 1646, but the castle did not surrender till November 10. This fortress remained in tranquillity till a grant was made of it, by King Charles, to the Earl of Conway and Kilulta; when he had scarcely obtained possession, before he ordered an agent to remove the timber, iron, lead, and other materials. It was held on lease, by Owen Holland, Esq. from the crown, at an annual rent of six shillings and eightpence, and a dish of fish to Lord Holland, as often as he passed through the town. Thus, unprotected, it has suffered material injuries from wind and weather, and is reduced to a state of rapid decay. The ruins are remarkably picturesque, and very extensive. The town was surrounded by high massive walls, twelve feet thick, strengthened at intervals by twenty-four circular and semi-circular towers; these, with the four principal gateways, remain in tolerable preservation. There are scarcely any remains of the Cistercian Abbey, founded by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, in 1185. The church contains a few modern monuments, belonging to the family of the Wynnes, formerly of this place. The font appears ancient; it is composed of black marble, curiously carved, and supported by a cluster of pilasters, standing upon a pedestal. In Castle Street is a very old house, called the college, which has a singular window, decorated with several coats of arms of the Stanley family. A day school is also kept in an ancient mansion, called Plas Mawr, situated near the market place, which was erected in 1585, by Robert Wynne, Esq. of Gwyder. The river Conway rises out of Llyn Conway, at the south extremity of the county, in the mountains of Penmachno. The ferry is of importance, as it lies upon one of the great roads from London to Ireland, but is justly considered a dangerous passage, and many are the accidents which have occurred. On Christmas Day, 1806, the boat conveying the Irish mail coach, was lost, and all the passengers, including the coachman and guard, were drowned, except two. At the Ferry-house a noble bay is formed where the tide enters the river. In this view, indeed, there are all the ingredients of a sublime and beautiful landscape. Few rivers, in England or Wales, in so short a course as twenty-nine miles, present so great a variety of beautiful scenery. Below Luna Hall, the falls of the Conway exhibit a noble cataract, about fifty feet; the stream of water, shooting directly from one aperture in the solid rock to a considerable distance, descends into a rocky basin, surrounded by hanging woods. One mile below this town, at Trefriw, the river becomes navigable, and contributes to the supply of the surrounding county. In Conway town there still exists a pearl fishery, and a chain suspension bridge has been recently erected in lieu of a dangerous ferry. The vale of Conway teems with interesting objects. Upon the west side is the abrupt termination of the Snowdon chain, down the declivities of which, through innumerable chasms, fissures, and channels, rush the superfluous waters of the lakes above, to mingle with the parent ocean. The principal employment of the poor, in this neighbourhood, is gathering the different species of fuci, commonly called sea-wreck, thrown up by the tide, or growing upon the breakers. This wreck they put into a kind of square fireplace, made upon the sand, and heat it till it becomes a liquid and forms a cake; when further baked or burnt it resembles cinders, and is called barilla or impure fossil alkali; in this state it is sold to manufacturers of soap and glass.

_Market_, Friday.--_Fairs_, March 26, April 30, June 20, August 19, September 16, October 20, and November 15.--Inns, Harp, Bull's Head, and White Lien.--_Mail_ arrives 2 A.M., departs 10-3/4 P.M.

[Sidenote: The Conovium of the Romans.]

[Sidenote: Town taken by storm, in 1646.]

[Sidenote: Curious tenure--6s. 8d. and a dish of fish.]

[Sidenote: Cistercian Abbey, founded by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth in 1185.]

[Sidenote: The ferry considered dangerous; loss of the Irish mail and 14 passengers, in 1806.]

[Sidenote: Falls of the Conway present a noble cataract, shooting from a solid rock.]

[Sidenote: Pearl fishery and suspension bridge.]

[Sidenote: Manufactory of barilla.]

Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ 54|Aberdare[A] pa|Glamorg |Mer. Tydvil 6|Bridgend 18| 50|Aberdaron pa|Caernarvon|Pwllheli 16|Nevin 16| 54|Aberddaw, East ham|Glamorg |Cowbridge 5|Bridgend 10| 55|Aberdyfi to|Merion |Aberystwith 9|Towyn 5| 58|Aberedwy[B] pa|Radnor |Builth 4|Hay 12| 56|Abererch pa|Caernarvon|Pwllheli 3|Crickieth 8| 45|Aberford[C] m.t. & pa|W.R. York |Tadcaster 6|Leeds 8| 47|Aberffraw pa|Anglesea |Bangor 17|Newborough 6| 26|Abergavenny[D] m.t. & pa|Monmouth |Monmouth 17|Crickhowell 7| +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ |Dist.| Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|population. +--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+ 54|Aberdare[A] pa|Brecon 20| 182| 3961| 50|Aberdaron pa|Bardsey Isle 5| 258| 1389| 54|Aberddaw, East ham|Llandaff 12| 179| ...| 55|Aberdyfi to|Machynlleth 9| 217| ...| 58|Aberedwy[B] pa|Radnor 13| 169| 344| 56|Abererch pa|Nevin 8| 234| 1365| 45|Aberford[C] m.t. & pa|Ferry Bridge 9| 186| 925| 47|Aberffraw pa|Holyhead 12| 258| 1367| 26|Abergavenny[D] m.t. & pa|Usk 9| 145| 4230| +--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+---------+

[A] ABERDARE. _Fairs_, for cattle, April 19, Whit-Monday, November 14.

[B] ABEREDWY. This delightful village derived its name from its situation, near the junction of the River Wye and Edwy. Nothing in nature can exceed the beauty of the neighbouring scenery. The Edwy descends through lofty walls of rock; in some places, broken into crags, which frightfully overhang the abyss. Near the place are the ruins of a castle, the retreat of the last native Welsh Prince, Llewelyn ap Gruffydd. The object of Llewelyn's journey to Aberedwy was to consult the chief persons of the district, upon the best means of successfully opposing the King of England, then invading Wales. On his arrival he found himself disappointed. Instead of meeting with friends, he was surrounded by the enemy. Edmund Mortimer and John Gyfford, acquainted with his route, marched from Herefordshire, with their troops to meet him. The enemy were numerous--resistance was in vain--Llewelyn withdrew to Builth. The mountains being covered with snow, he caused the shoes of his horse to be reversed, in order to baffle pursuit, but the treacherous _smith_ betrayed him. Llewelyn broke down the bridge of Builth, but was closely followed by the English forces, who fruitlessly attempted to gain it. Sir Elias Walwyn crossed the river, with a detachment, about eight miles below, at a place called Little Tom's Ferry Boat, and coming unexpectedly on the Welsh army, routed them. Llewelyn himself was attacked and slain, unarmed, in a narrow valley, not two hundred yards from the scene of action. Adam Francton, the murderer of Llewelyn, took no notice of his victim, but joined in the pursuit of the Welsh. Returning with the view of plundering the slain, he discovered the wounded person was no other than the Prince of Wales; for on stripping him, he found a letter in cipher and his privy seal. The brutal Francton, overjoyed that the Welsh prince had fallen into his hands, cut off his head, and sent it to the King of England, and thus perished the last native Prince of Wales.

[Sidenote: Ruined castle--the retreat of Llewelyn, the last native Prince of Wales.]

[Sidenote: His horses shoes reversed.]

[Sidenote: Betrayed by his smith.]

[Sidenote: His army routed, and himself slain.]

[Sidenote: His head sent to the King of England.]

[C] ABERFORD is situated upon the River Cock, on the great northern road, on the banks of which river was fought the famous battle of Towton, in 1461, so called from a village in the vicinity. The town consists of a long straggling street, in the north of which are the remains of a Norman fortification, called Castle Carey; and the whole is in the line of the ancient Roman road. This town is curiously situated, as respects township: the west side is in Aberford-cum-Parlington; the east of the same end is Lotherton-cum-Aberford, and the north of the river is Aberford alone.

_Mail_ arrives 4.11 P.M., departs 8.46 A.M.--_Inn_, Swan.

[Sidenote: Here the famous battle of Towton was fought.]

[D] ABERGAVENNY, (the ancient Gobanium of the Romans,) and its environs, have strong claims to the traveller's attention. Its castle and delightful terrace overlook the rich vale of Usk; its church, abounding in costly sculptured tombs, its beautifully variegated mountains, all conspire to render this place particularly attractive. This town was once fortified, and many portions of the work remain, particularly Tudor's Gate. The western entrance is furnished with two portcullises, and remarkable for the beautifully composed landscape seen through it. The style of building which forms the remains of this fortress marks its origin to have been subsequent to the Norman epoch. Excursions are frequently made to Blaenavon Iron Works, about six miles distant, which employ upwards of four thousand men. The mountainous territory containing these mineral treasures of iron, was demised by the crown to the Earl of Abergavenny, and is held under a lease by Hill and Co. A principal excursion from Abergavenny is that which leads northwards to Llanthony Abbey, a majestic ruin, seated in a deep recess of the black mountains, at the very extremity of Monmouthshire. Abergavenny is a place of much resort, being the thoroughfare from the west of Wales to Bath, Bristol, and Gloucestershire. Its principal manufacture is flannel, and its annual fairs for cattle are well attended.

_Mail_ arrives 2 P.M., departs 11 A.M.--INNS, Angel, and Greyhound.--_Bankers_, Hill and Co., draw upon Esdaile and Co.,--Jones and Co., draw upon Williams and Co.--_Fairs_, May 14, lean cattle and sheep; 1st Monday after Trinity, linen and woollen cloths; September 25, horses, hogs, and flannel.--_Market_ Tuesday.

[Sidenote: Gobanium of the Romans.]

[Sidenote: Tudor's Gate.]

[Sidenote: Blaenavon Iron Works. 4000 men employed.]

[Sidenote: Llanthony Abbey, a majestic ruin in the black mountains.]

Map| Names of Places. | County | Number of Miles From +--+------------------------+----------+--------------+---------------+ 26|Abergavenny hun|Monmouth | ... | ... | 52|Abergele m.t. & pa|Denbigh |St. Asaph 7|Holywell 17| 49|Abergorlech chap|Caermar |Llandilo Var 7|Lampeter 9| 49|Abergwilley to & pa|Caermar |Caermar 2|Llandilo Var 15| 56|Aberhafesp pa|Montgomery|Newton, 3|Llanydloes 11| 56|Aberhaly to|Montgomery|Llanfair 6|Newton 5| 49|Abermarles to|Caermar |Llandovery 7|Llangadock 3| 48|Aberlyfni ham|Brecknock |Hay 4|Brecon 11| 49|Abernant pa|Caermar |Caermar 4|Llaugharne 10| 54|Aberpergwm chap|Glamorg |Neath 10|Brecon 20| 56|Aber-Rhiw pa|Montgomery|Welsh Pool 5|Montgomery 4| 51|Aber-Porth pa|Cardigan |Cardigan 7|Newcastle 9| 48|Aberyskir pa|Brecknock |Brecon 4|Llandovery 16| 51|Aberystwith[A] m.t. & pa|Cardigan |Tregaron 15|Machynlleth 18| 26|Aberystwith pa & chap|Monmouth |Abergaven 7|Crickhowell 7| 4|Abingdon[B] m.t.|Berks |Oxford 6|Wallingford 11| +--+------------------------+----------+--------------+---------------+ |Dist.| Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. +--+------------------------+-------------------------+---------------+ 26|Abergavenny hun|Monmouth | ... | ... | 30818| 52|Abergele m.t. & pa|Denbigh |Aberconway 12| 224| 2506| 49|Abergorlech chap|Caermar |Caermar 14| 209| ...| 49|Abergwilley to & pa|Caermar |Newcastle 16| 214| 2675| 56|Aberhafesp pa|Montgomery|Llanfair 10| 180| 535| 56|Aberhaly to|Montgomery|Montgomery 10| 180| ...| 49|Abermarles to|Caermar |Lampeter 14| 198| ...| 48|Aberlyfni ham|Brecknock |Builth 12| 160| 100| 49|Abernant pa|Caermar |Newcastle 11| 222| 654| 54|Aberpergwm chap|Glamorg |Merthyr Tyd 13| 188| ...| 56|Aber-Rhiw pa|Montgomery|Newtown 9| 172| 2429| 51|Aber-Porth pa|Cardigan |Lampeter 24| 235| 485| 48|Aberyskir pa|Brecknock |Builth 14| 173| 110| 51|Aberystwith[A] m.t. & pa|Cardigan |Aberllelwyn 5| 208| 4128| 26|Aberystwith pa & chap|Monmouth |Pontypool 8| 153| 5992| 4|Abingdon[B] m.t.|Berks |Wantage 10| 56| 5259| +--+-----------------------+-----------+--------------+-----+---------+

[A] ABERYSTWITH, a market town and seaport in the hundred of Glenaur Glynn, and also a township in the parish of Llanbadarn Vawr. It is situated at the confluence of the rivers Ystwith and Rhyddol, at which the former falls into the sea in the bay of Cardigan. The building of a castle, of which some vestiges remain, is attributed to Edward I. It stands on a craggy eminence projecting into the sea at the west of the town, and affords a magnificent view of the whole line of Welsh coast within the bay of Cardigan. The streets are steep and uneven.--The houses, which are principally formed of dark slate, present a very singular appearance. For some years past its celebrity, as a summer retreat and bathing-place, has been annually increasing, which is greatly contributed to by the beauty of the neighbourhood, and the commanding prospects around. The roads to it have been made excellent, and the customary amusements of plays and assemblies during the season add to the attractions for summer visitants. There was formerly a herring fishery, and the practice of fishing is still carried on with considerable advantage by the natives. About seven miles north of Aberystwith, on the sea coast, a considerable extent of land, has, by drainage, been recovered; twelve miles of embankment have been formed; and two navigable cuts, with a road of three miles and a stone bridge completed.

_Mail_ arrives 7 A.M. departs 5 P.M.--_Fairs_, 1st Monday in May and November, chiefly for hiring servants.--_Bankers_, W. Davis and Co., draw on Esdaile and Co.--_Inns_, Gogerddon Arms, Old Lion, and Talbot.--_Markets_, Monday and Saturday.

[Sidenote: Fine bathing place.]

[Sidenote: Twelve miles of embankment.]

[B] ABINGDON, at the very edge of the county of Berkshire, was called Shovesham, by the Anglo-Saxons, until the foundation of the abbey, from which period it began to assume the name of Abbandeen, or the Town of the Abbey. This monastery, the monks of which were Benedictines, was founded by Cissa, an Anglo-Saxon monarch, in 675. During the reign of Alfred it was demolished by the Danes, and remained in ruins till King Edgar partly restored it, in 954. Ethelwold, the abbot at that time, erected and embellished the church, and his successors contributed to its increase. After the Conquest, the wealth and grandeur of the abbey were equal to any similar foundation in England. William the Conqueror kept Easter in the abbey, A.D. 1084; and here was educated his youngest son, Henry, surnamed Beauclerc, afterwards King Henry I., in whose reign, one of the most eminent characters who received sepulture within the abbey, was the celebrated Jeffery of Monmouth, author of the British History,--a work, from which some of our best poets have derived materials for their sublime compositions. Shakspeare's Lear, and Milton's Comus, were both supplied from Jeffery's history. He flourished in the reign of Henry I. Among the natives of Abingdon, whose talents have rendered their possessors eminent, was Sir John Mason, a statesman of the sixteenth century. His memory is the more worthy to be revered, because, from a very obscure origin, his genius and perseverance advanced him to the rank of privy-counsellor, ambassador to France, and chancellor of the University of Oxford. His father was a cow-herd and his mother, sister to one of the abbey monks, who attended to his early tuition, and sent him to Oxford, where he became a fellow of All Souls' college. While in this situation, the liveliness of his temper occasioned him to be chosen to compliment Henry VIII. on his visit to the University, in the year 1523, which being executed in a most graceful manner, engaged the favour of the monarch, who promoted him to the honourable offices above-mentioned. He died in 1566, and was buried in St. Paul's cathedral.

_Mail_ arrives 2.49 A.M., departs 12.10 A.M.--_Fairs_, 1st Monday in Lent, May 6, June 20, August 6, September 19, cattle; Monday before Old Michaelmas, statute, and December 11, horses and cattle.--_Bankers_, Knapp and Co., draw on Williams and Co.--_Inns_, Crown and Thistle, and Queen's Arms.--_Markets_, Monday and Friday.

[Sidenote: Monastery of Benedictine monks.]

[Sidenote: William the Conqueror kept Easter, and his son was educated here. Jeffery of Monmouth buried in the abbey.]

[Sidenote: Sir J. Mason, born here--his father a cow-herd.]