Curiosities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol.1-11 Historical, Entertaining & Commercial; Alphabetically Arranged. 11 Volume set.

Part 10

Chapter 103,428 wordsPublic domain

[A] ARRINGTON. This village was anciently called Ermington. It is near Lord Hardwicke's Park. At this place, in the year 1721, the skeletons of sixteen human bodies were found in digging for a water course, within two feet of the surface of the ground. Some pieces of iron much rusted, conjectured to have been pieces of swords were also found. It is supposed the skeletons were the remains of persons who had been killed in endeavouring to obtain possession of the pass over the river Cam, during the civil wars.

[Sidenote: Sixteen skeletons found here.]

[B] ARTHURET. This village is situated on a point of land which in early times was said to have been called Arthur's Head, from whence the name is derived. In this place was both born and buried, Archibald Armstrong, Jester to both King James I., and Charles I. By an incident suitable to his profession, his funeral took place on "All Fools Day," the first of April. He was banished the court for speaking too freely of Archbishop Laud's measure of introducing the Liturgy into Scotland, which had produced a considerable tumult. On the arrival of the news of these riots in England, Archy facetiously asked his grace, "Who's the fool now." The joke was bitterly resented by the prelate, who procured an order of council to banish him from the court, for speaking disrespectful words of the Archbishop of Canterbury. This parish is bounded partly by Solway Frith, and forms part of the debateable lands so celebrated in Scottish history; these lands and the celebrated Solway Moss, we shall have occasion to speak further of in the course of the work.

[Sidenote: A merry jester buried on "All Fool's Day."]

[C] ARUNDEL, is situated on the declivity of a hill, on the north bank of the river Arun, over which there is a bridge. It consists of two principal streets, one of which runs north and south, and the other westward from the point of the union. Many of the houses are built in the castellated style. The church, situated at the north end of the town, originally belonged to a priory of Benedictines, and is supposed to have been founded soon after the conquest of Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Arundel. It is a handsome gothic building with transepts, from the centre of which rises a square tower, with a wooden spire. Some beautiful monuments of the Earls of Arundel may be seen; and one, more magnificent than the rest, is of alabaster, a calcareous earth, which differs from marble, in being combined not with carbonic, but with sulphuric acid. This monument is erected to the memory of Thomas Fitz-Alan, and Beatrice, his countess, a daughter of John, King of Portugal. The charter by which the town is governed, was granted by Queen Elizabeth. It formerly sent two members, but by the Reform Bill, it now sends but one; the ten pound householders are calculated at 380. The borough comprises the parish of Arundel and the returning officer is the mayor. Here was formerly a harbour sufficient to contain vessels of one hundred tons burthen, but it has suffered great damage by the sea. Great quantities of timber for ship building, are still shipped from this place, which has but little trade, yet it is much benefitted in summer by the numerous visitors who resort to it for sea bathing. Of the castle, which stands on the north-east side of the town, mention is first made in the will of King Alfred, who bequeathed it, with the town, to his nephew Adhelm. A popular tradition ascribes the foundation of it to Beris, "a giant of ancient times," in confirmation of which opinion a tower is still pointed out, called Beris Tower. The Conqueror gave it to his kinsman Roger de Montgomery, whom he also created Earl of Arundel, which title belonged to three persons of this family, till Robert Bellesme was outlawed by Henry I. for the assistance he gave to that monarch's brother, Robert. The castle was then settled on Queen Adeliza, who, after the death of her royal consort, gave her hand to William de Albini, one of the most accomplished men of his age. Here the dowager-queen performed the rites of hospitality towards the Empress Maud, in the attempt of that princess to ascend the throne. The last male heir of the name of Albini, died in 1243, when the castle and manor of Arundel fell to his sister, Isabel, whose husband, John Fitz-Alan, made the castle his residence, and assumed the title of Earl of Arundel. The fourth in descent from him forfeited his life and estates, in the attempt to ruin the Despensers, favourites of Edward II.; but the estates were restored to his son, whose successor, in the reign of Richard II., being accused of a conspiracy to seize the king, and put to death the lords of the council, was beheaded; the king presiding at the execution. His son, Thomas Fitz-Alan, was reinstated by Henry IV.; but, he dying without issue, in 1415, the castle devolved to his cousin, Sir John Fitz-Alan, who laid claim to, and obtained the title, on which an act was passed, that the possession of this castle and honour conferred the dignity of Earl without creation. The last Fitz-Alan died in the 22d of Elizabeth, leaving a daughter, who married Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, thus carrying the earldom and estate into that family, to whom they still belong.

[Sidenote: Beautiful monuments in the church.]

[Sidenote: Quantities of Sussex oak shipped from this place.]

[Sidenote: Tradition ascribes the foundation of the castle to a giant.]

[Sidenote: The king presided at the execution of one of its lords.]

Concerning the true period of the foundation of this castle, many conjectures have been entertained. On account of the bricks inserted in the walls of the keep, it has been attributed to the Romans; but such a proof is not allowed by the best antiquaries. Its pretensions to the era of the Saxon kings are more explicit. The more ancient parts are the keep or citadel, and the towers which flank the gateway, and connect the whole by means of a sally port. The keep stands upon an artificial mound, the height of which, from the fosse, is one hundred and ten feet on one side, and eighty on the other. Of its external wall, the height is thirty feet, supported by projecting ribs or buttresses. It is eight feet thick, with a wall on the inside, guarded by a parapet as many feet high. The diameter of the room which is faced with Norman or Caen stone, is sixty-seven feet by fifty-nine. There are also Roman bricks placed in the herring-bone fashion, which is observable in most Saxon buildings. In the centre is a subterraneous room and passage; and in a tower attached to the keep, is a well three hundred feet deep. The approach is by a time-worn staircase, and over a narrow pass, commanding the entrance to the building, which bears the marks of a portcullis. The more ancient one towards the east still retains a very rich Saxon door-case. In the tower above the present entrance, was a small chapel or oratory, dedicated to St. George. The tower and gateway facing the base court of the castle are apparently co-temporary with the keep. The other towers are built with flint. The dungeons are on the right and left of the gateway. They consist of eight wards, protected by a draw-bridge from the castle moat. The lower wards are very deep, and partly filled up with rubbish. The foundation walls of these dungeons are not known, although efforts have been employed to discover the length and depth of these frightful abodes. The Empress Maud's apartments are in the tower, above the old gateway. They consist of three bed-rooms. The Saxon keep may justly be termed the ivy-mantled tower, for the walls are literally covered with its leaves. The late Duke of Norfolk was very partial to this retired spot. Here are several remarkably curious owls, elegant, and extremely large; some of them measuring across the wings, from eight to ten feet. Their plumage is particularly beautiful, and their eyes brilliant. The late duke purchased them from North America. There are many traces of ancient remains about the keep or tower. The spot where the boilers stood, for the purpose of melting the lead to pour down upon the besiegers, and those used for culinary purposes, are still visible. The marks of cannon balls discharged against the tower during the siege of the parliamentary forces, are observable in many places. The ground plan of the present castle nearly resembles that of Windsor Castle, in the exact proportion of nine to fourteen. When the late Duke of Norfolk took possession, the castle was little better than a heap of ruins, but his Grace has restored it to its original magnificence. The building is of free-stone, from the quarries in Yorkshire; and those of a brown cast were carefully selected, in order that they might assimilate in colour with the old remains. The new walls have risen upon the ancient model, and correspond with the old ones in solidity of fabric, as well as dignity of ornament. An entire new front of massy stone, which differs materially from the others, particularly in exhibiting the insignia of the Howards, mixed with those of their predecessors, and two colossal figures of liberty and hospitality, ornament the grand entrance. In raising this front, the late duke had the opportunity of enlarging the mansion, and gaining the space now occupied on the basement story, by a long range of servants' offices, including a new kitchen, with two fire places, bake-house, scullery, the steward's and housekeeper's rooms, &c. The cellars are of immense length. The duke weekly employed from 100 to 200 labourers, mechanics, and artists, in the improvement and decorations of this noble edifice, for upwards of twenty-five years. The arrangements were formed entirely from his own ideas, and in the progress of the plan, he was exclusively his own architect. On the west wing is a beautiful sculptured basso relievo historical representation of King Alfred receiving the report of the jury, as established in his reign. The costume and draperies are finely carved in stone. The interior of the castle is fitted up with great taste and effect. The richest mahogany has been used in almost every decoration. The walls being more than six feet thick, form a kind of frame for each window, which is five feet deep on the inside, and the whole of this spacious case is lined with mahogany. The window frames which hold the magnificent plate glass panes, three feet each in height, are of the same material; and the solid mahogany doors are held in cases of the thickness of the inner walls, perhaps, four feet deep, all lined with pannels of the richest grain.

[Sidenote: The great antiquity of the castle.]

[Sidenote: The castle dungeons of remarkable depth.]

[Sidenote: Remarkable owls]

[Sidenote: The late Duke of Norfolk restored the castle to its ancient magnificence.]

[Sidenote: Employed from 100 to 200 labourers for 25 years.]

In the Barons room the following inscription appears:--

"CHARLES HOWARD, DUKE OF NORFOLK,

EARL OF ARUNDEL,

in the year of Christ, 1806, in the 60th year of his age, dedicated this stone To Liberty, asserted by the Barons, in the reign of John."

On the 15th of June, 1815, a great festival took place for celebrating the centenary of the signing of Magna Charta. There was a splendid assemblage of the nobility and persons of distinction. Complete suits of ancient armour, with swords and spears, forged in ancient times, and for very different purposes, were either suspended from, or hung around the walls; and every adventitious aid was adopted to give state and majesty to this celebration of the magnanimous conduct of the Barons of England. Nearly three hundred distinguished guests sat down. The head of the table was ornamented with a noble baron of beef, surmounted by the ducal coronet, and the banners of the illustrious house of Norfolk.

[Sidenote: Festival to celebrate the signing of Magna Charter held here.]

The castle occupies a mile in circumference, and the beautiful domains which surround this magnificent structure, are more than seven miles and a half in circumference, enclosed with a strong fence railing. The grounds are well laid out, in gardens, shrubberies, and plantations. There are three agreeable towers in the park; High Horn, commanding an extensive prospect; and Mount Pleasant, covered with ivy, overlooking the beautiful vale of Sussex. The late duke built another tower, facing the road to Petworth, called the White Ways. The castle is open to the inspection of visitors on the first Sunday in the month after divine service, and on every Monday in the year.

[Sidenote: The times when the castle may be inspected by visitors.]

When the buildings on the Norfolk estate adjoining the Strand, London, were erected, it was legally settled, that the whole of the rents, should be expended for the sole purpose of keeping up Arundel Castle; this has always been acted upon. The original rents having long since fallen in--and the increased income that has been produced by that cause, joined to the general increase of rents in that quarter, has been so great, that it now requires very great ingenuity to contrive the means of laying out all that money according to the directions of the original entail; and this is the real cause of the magnificent style in which that ancient baronial castle is still supported. The estate thus mentioned, comprises the whole of Surrey-street, Arundel-street, Howard-street, and Norfolk-street, which are the entire property of the Norfolk family.

_Markets_, Wednesday and Saturday.--_Mail_ arrives 7.40. A.M., departs 5.30. P.M.--_Fairs_, May 14, cattle and hogs; August 21, hogs, cattle, and sheep; September 25, cattle and sheep; December 17, cattle and pedlary; second Tuesday in every month for cattle.--_Bankers_, Henty and Co., draw on Lubbock and Co.; Hopkins and Co., draw on Williams and Co.--_Inns_, Crown, and Norfolk Arms.

[Sidenote: Estates in London devoted to keep it in repair.]

[A] ST. ASAPH. This city is seated on the decline of a pleasant eminence, between the rivers Clwyd and Elwy, which renders the first appearance striking, though it contains little more than one street. The church stands in the lower part of the town, and serves for the use of the parishioners, the cathedral not being used for parochial purposes; the latter was built about the close of the fifteenth century; it consists of a choir, a nave, two aisles, and a transept. During the protectorship of Cromwell the palace and cathedral were much injured by the post-master, who made great havoc in the choir of the cathedral, using the font as a trough for watering his horses; and by way of venting his spleen on the clergy, tied up calves in the bishop's throne. Several very eminent men have been bishops of St. Asaph, including Dr. Isaac Barrow, William Beveridge, and Samuel Horsley, the former of whom founded an alms-house for eight poor widows. Bishop Hughes, who died 1600, founded, and endowed the Free Grammar School. The neighbourhood possesses several land proprietors who have given great encouragement to agriculture, amongst whom may be included Dean Shipley, who stimulated the practical farmers to emulation, by premiums, and other encouragement. To this spirited dignitary, so well known in the history of the law of libel, a very handsome monument has been erected in the cathedral.

_Market_ Saturday.--_Fairs_, Easter Tuesday, July 15, October 16, December 26, for cattle.--_Inn_, White Lion.

[Sidenote: The font of the cathedral used for watering horses.]

[B] ASBY, once called Askeby. This parish consists of four manors. The church is ancient, its beauty has been much disfigured by repairs; it has even been diminished in size, as appears by an arch now filled up in the north wall. At Sayle Bottom are several tumuli--some circular, others rectangular. At Garthorne Hall, a tumulus was found to contain human bones and a large sword, and another containing three entire skulls. Pate Hole, in this parish, is a remarkable cavern in a limestone rock, consisting of two galleries, one 430 yards long, towards the north east, the other, 230 yards long, making a large sweep from the extremity of the first to its middle; together, they resemble the letter P. At the end of the first gallery is a lofty dome, and a pool 20 yards long, 6 broad, and 3 deep; and in the second are two perpendicular chasms of unknown extent, from whence proceed in rainy seasons torrents of water, which fill the cavern and discharge themselves from its entrance. The noise of these operations resemble at first gentle music, but increases to the pitch of the loudest. In one part is a petrifying spring, which always stands at one temperature.

[Sidenote: Pate Hole, an immense cavern.]

Map| Names of Places.|County.| Number of Miles From | +--+-----------------+-------+------------+--------------+ 39|Ascott ham|Warwick|Shipston 7|L. Compton 3| 31|Ascott ham & chap|Oxford |Bensington 5|Dorchester 4| 39|Ascott pa|Oxford | ... 5| ... 4| 34|Asgarby pa|Lincoln|Sleaford 3|Tattershall 11| 24|Asgarby pa|Lincoln|Spilsby 6|Horncastle 6| 10|Ash ham|Derby |Derby 7|Uttoxeter 11| 21|Ash pa|Kent |Wingham 3|Sandwich 3| 21|Ash pa|Kent |Farmingham 4|Gravesend 7| 37|Ash pa|Surrey |Farnham 4|Bagshot 9| 16|Ash, or Ashe pa|Hants |Whitchurch 6|Basingstoke 7| 11|Ashe[A] ham|Devon |Colyton 2|Lyme 4| +--+-----------------+-------+------------+--------------+ |Dist. | Map| Names of Places.|Number of Miles From|Lond. |Population. +--+-----------------+--------------------+--------+------+ 39|Ascott ham|Kineton 12| 78| ...| 31|Ascott ham & chap|Oxford 10| 61| 97| 39|Ascott pa|Oxford 10| 51| 419| 34|Asgarby pa|Falkingham 8| 114| 146| 24|Asgarby pa|Tattershall 10| 138| 57| 10|Ash ham|Burton-on-T. 7| 136| 50| 21|Ash pa|Ramsgate 8| 63| 2416| 21|Ash pa|Wrotham 4| 20| 586| 37|Ash pa|Godalming 8| 35| 2001| 16|Ash, or Ashe pa|Kingsclere 6| 53| 114| 11|Ashe[A] ham|Axminster 4| 148| ...| +--+-----------------+--------------------+--------+------+