Part 4

The origin of this word is attributed by Dr. Doran, in his 'History of Court Fools,' to a club of Athenian wits; but how he could possibly connect the word Punch with these worthies, or derive it from either their sayings or doings, we are totally at a loss to understand. Its more probable derivation is from the Persian Punj, or from the Sanscrit Pancha, which denotes the usual number of ingredients of which it is composed, viz. five. In an old book of travels dated 1639, a certain drink is mentioned called Palepuntz, used by the English at Surat, composed of brandy, rose-water, citron-juice, and sugar, the acid principle being absent. We may here mention parenthetically that 'Punch, or The London Charivari,' was started by five men, of whom three were "Lemons," viz. Mark Lemon, its editor, Leman Rede, and Laman Blanchard. Thus 'Punch' was made with "Lemon-ade."

_Punch._

Extract the oil from the rind of a large lemon by rubbing it with lumps of sugar; add the juice of two lemons and of two Seville oranges, together with the finely pared rind; put this into a jug with one pint of old rum, one pint of brandy, and half a pound of powdered lump sugar; stir well together, then add one pint of infusion of green tea and one quart of boiling water. Mix well, and let it be served quite hot. This is an excellent recipe for ordinary Punch; and the addition of green tea cannot be too strongly recommended. In order to give Punch a delicious softness, one pint of calves'-foot jelly should be added to the above recipe. The addition of two glasses of sherry will also be found an improvement.

_Noyau Punch_

is made by adding two glasses of noyau to the above recipe.

A tablespoonful of Guava jelly administers a fine flavour to a bowl of Punch. Preserved tamarinds, put into Punch, impart a flavour closely resembling arrack; and a piece or two of preserved ginger, with a little of the syrup, added to Punch, acts as a stimulant, and prevents any ill effects which might otherwise arise from the acids it contains.

_Gin Punch._

As a mild summer drink, and one readily made, we recommend Gin Punch, according to the following recipe:--

Stir the rind of a lemon, and the juice of half a one, in half a pint of gin; add a glass of Maraschino, half a pint of water, and two tablespoonfuls of pounded white sugar, and, immediately before serving, pour in two bottles of iced soda-water.

_Whisky Punch._

To one pint of whisky and two glasses of brandy add the juice and peel of one lemon and a wine-glassful of boiling ale; well stir into it half a pound of powdered sugar, and add a quart of boiling water. This is said to be the most fascinating tipple ever invented; and, to quote the words of Basil Hall, "It brightens a man's hopes, crumbles down his difficulties, softens the hostility of his enemies, and, in fact, induces him for the time being to think generously of all mankind, at the tiptop of which it naturally and good-naturedly places his own dear self."

If well made, in our opinion, there is no beverage, in point of generosity and delicacy of flavour, that can compare with Milk Punch, for the compounding of which, after numerous trials, we offer the following recipe as the simplest and best.

_Milk Punch._

To the rinds of twelve lemons and two Seville oranges add 2-1/2 pounds of loaf sugar, a bottle of pale brandy, and a bottle and a half of old rum, with a sufficient quantity of grated nutmeg. Let this mixture stand for a week; then add the juice of the fruit, with five pints of water; lastly, add one quart of boiling milk, and, after letting it stand for an hour, filter the whole through jelly-bags till it is clear.

Bottle for use. The longer it is kept, the better it will be.

In Cambridge (a town of no mean authority in such matters) Milk Punch is made after the following fashion.

_Milk Punch_, No. 2.

Boil together a quart of milk, four ounces of loaf sugar, a small stick of cinnamon, and the peel of one lemon; then beat together the yolks of three eggs and the white of one; add the boiling compound very gradually, and keep continually stirring the mixture while you pour into it a wine-glassful of rum and one of noyau. Serve hot.

The following compound is said to have been held in high esteem by the Prince Regent, from whom it derives its name.

_Regent's Punch._

To a pint of strongly made green tea add the rinds and juice of two lemons, one Seville orange, and one sweet orange, with half a pound of loaf sugar and a small stick of cinnamon. After standing for half an hour, strain the mixture, add a bottle of champagne, half a bottle of sherry, three wine-glasses of brandy; rum, Curaçoa, and noyau, of each a wine-glass, and a pint of pine-apple syrup.

Ice the compound well, and, immediately before drinking, add a bottle of soda-water.

_Cold Milk Punch_ (German Recipe).

Take the finely shredded rind of one, and the juice of three, lemons, one bottle of rum, one pint of arrack, half a pound of loaf sugar, and a quart of cold water. When the sugar is melted, pour one quart of boiling milk on the above, cover it closely for four hours, and run it through a bag, as it should be quite bright.

Many other recipes for Punch might be added, as, for instance, Egg Punch, Almond Punch, Punch à la Romaine, Spiced Punch, Red Punch, Leander Punch, &c.; but the few we have prescribed will be found reliable, so we refrain from swelling the list.

The simple admixture of spirits and water is known either by the name of Toddy, which is a corruption of an Indian word, Taddi (the sap of the palm tree), or by the more truly English appellation of Grog, which thus derives its cognomen. Before the time of Admiral Vernon, rum was given to the seamen in its raw state; but he ordered it to be diluted, previously to delivery, with a certain quantity of water. This watering of their favourite liquor so incensed the tars that they nicknamed the Admiral "Old Grog," in allusion to a grogram coat which he was in the habit of wearing.

Addison gives a humorous account of a Tory squire whom he met by chance in a country ride, and who maintained, over a bowl of punch, to which he was evidently addicted, that England would do very well if it would content itself with its own productions and not depend upon foreigners. Addison reminded him, to his great discomfiture, that, of the favourite drink he was enjoying, the water was the only constituent of English production, and that the brandy, lemon, spice, and sugar were all foreigners.

WINE CUPS.

Of all compound drinks, those having wine for their basis require the greatest care in their preparation and the greatest nicety in their composition. This will be evident to any one who remembers the fact that not one wine-drinker out of twenty, except by subterfuge or previous practice, can distinguish, with his eyes closed, a glass of sherry from one of port, although, when wide awake, no one ever confounds the two; and there are few who cannot distinguish a glass of fine old white port when they have the chance of tasting it.

It is not our object, however, to discourse on the merits of particular wines, but to give recipes for the blending of such as are most palatable and wholesome. First on the list we place Claret Cup, as the most agreeable, wholesome, easily compounded, and easily obtained, and because, under the new tariff, most people have learned to distinguish the difference between the two varieties of French wines, more or less, though at present, we fear, to use an expression of Charles Dickens, "generally less."

_Claret Cup_, No. 1.

To a bottle of Bordeaux claret add two wine-glasses of sherry and a wine-glass of Maraschino, with a small quantity of powdered lump sugar. Let the above be well iced and put into a cup, and, immediately before drinking, add a bottle of soda-water which has also been previously iced, and stick in two sprigs of borage.

_Claret Cup_, No. 2.

To each bottle of ordinary claret add a bottle of soda-water, a glass of sherry or Curaçoa, the peel of a lemon cut very thin, with powdered sugar according to taste. Let the whole stand an hour or two before serving, and then add some clear ice.

_Claret Cup_, No. 3.

To the above add a few slices of cucumber, or some sprigs of borage instead of cucumber.

_Claret Cup_, No. 4.

As No. 2, except the lemon-peel, for which substitute, when in season, a pint of ripe raspberries, or four or five peaches or nectarines cut in slices. This is a most delicious beverage.

_Mulled Claret._

The best way of mulling claret is simply to heat it with a sufficient quantity of sugar and a stick of cinnamon. To this a small quantity of brandy may be added, if preferred.

_Burgundy Cup._

To a bottle of Burgundy wine add a wine-glass of noyau, three wine-glasses of pine-apple syrup, one wine-glass of brandy, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar; ice well; add a bottle of seltzer- or soda-water before drinking, and serve with a sprig of borage.

_Hock Cup_, No. 1.

To a bottle of hock add three wine-glasses of sherry, one lemon sliced, and some balm or borage. Let it stand two hours; sweeten to taste, and add a bottle of seltzer-water.

_Hock Cup_, No. 2.

"May-Trank" is a most popular beverage on the Rhine. Take with each bottle of light hock about a dozen sprigs of woodruff, a quarter of an orange cut in small slices, and about two ounces of powdered sugar. The herbs are to be removed, after having been in the wine half an hour. A bottle of sparkling wine added to four or five bottles of still hock is a great improvement. A little ice is recommended.

_Hock Cup_, No. 3.

Instead of woodruff and orange take to each bottle of hock about half a pint of highly flavoured strawberries. Sugar as above. The fruit is to be taken with the wine after having been in it about an hour.

_Hock Cup_, No. 4.

Take some thin slices of pine-apple instead of the strawberries.

_Hock Cup_, No. 5.

Take to each bottle of hock two highly flavoured peaches peeled and cut in slices. Sugar as above.

_Champagne Cup._

To a bottle of champagne add a wine-glass of Madeira or sherry, a liqueur-glass of Maraschino, two slices of Seville orange-peel, and one slice of lemon-peel. Before drinking, pour in a bottle of seltzer-water, and serve with a sprig of verbena or a very small piece of thinly cut peeling of cucumber.

_Moselle Cup_, No. 1.

To a bottle of Moselle add a sweet orange sliced, a leaf or two of mint, sage, borage, and the black currant. Let this stand for three hours; strain off, and sweeten to taste with clarified sugar.

_Moselle Cup_, No. 2.

To each bottle of still or sparkling Moselle add one bottle of soda-water, a glass of sherry or brandy, four or five thin slices of pine-apple, the peel of half a lemon cut very thin, and powdered sugar according to taste: let the whole stand about an hour, and before serving add some lumps of clear ice.

_Moselle Cup_, No. 3.

As No. 2, except the pine-apple, for which substitute a pint of fresh strawberries, or three or four peaches or nectarines.

_Moselle Cup_, No. 4.

As No. 2, but add, instead of fruit, some sprigs of woodruff. Woodruff is a herb much used on the Rhine for making May-Trank, its peculiar flavour being most powerful in May: it grows in forests in many parts of England.

_Moselle Cup_, No. 5.

When neither fruit nor woodruff can be obtained, add, instead of sherry or brandy, a glass or two of milk-punch, or essence of punch, and a little more of the lemon-peel.

_Cutler's Moselle Cup._

Half a pound of loaf sugar steeped in water to saturation, one orange thinly sliced, a handful of fresh young woodruff, and two bottles of Moselle.

N.B. Hock may be substituted for Moselle.

A bottle of Bordeaux added to the foregoing improves it.

_Mulled Port._

To a bottle of matured port add a wine-glass of sherry, some cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, and a small piece of bruised lemon-peel. Simmer the spice in a little water, then add the wine; heat, but do not let it boil, and sweeten.

_Mulled Sherry._

The same as for mulled port, with the addition of a wine-glass of brandy.

_Sherry Cobler._

Fill a tumbler three parts full of pounded ice, to which add two wine-glasses of sherry, a tablespoonful of brandy, two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, and two or three small pieces of lemon. Pour the mixture rapidly from one tumbler to another several times, throw in half a dozen strawberries, and drink the mixture through a straw, or stick of maccaroni.

_Cider Cup._

To a quart of cider add half a lemon squeezed, three tablespoonfuls of powdered lump sugar, two wine-glasses of pale brandy, a wine-glass of Curaçoa, two slices of lemon, with grated nutmeg on the top. Ice well, and serve with borage.

_Morgan's Herefordshire Cup._

To two bottles of cider add a bottle of port and a bottle of soda-water, orange-peel, and plenty of sugar. Ice well and serve with borage.

_Donaldson's Cider Cup._

To a bottle of cider add one wine-glass of sherry, one liqueur-glass of orange-brandy, half a liqueur-glass of Curaçoa, and before drinking add a bottle of seltzer-water, a sprig of mint, and two or three lumps of ice.

_The "Field" Cider Cup._

Mix together two quarts of old bottled cider, sweeten to taste, taking care that the sugar is perfectly melted, add half a nutmeg grated, a little powdered ginger, a glass of brandy, a glass of noyau, cut a lemon into it in moderately thin slices, and let it remain there. Make it two hours before wanted, and stand in some ice. There is no better recipe than the above.

_White's Club House Cup._

Three bottles of claret, one bottle of water, one wine-glass of Madeira, a liqueur-glass of Maraschino, four sweet oranges, three thin slices of cucumber or a piece of borage, half a pint of sirup, the flower and young part of borage, orange sliced with the peel; let it stand for three hours, then stir the sirup in one pound of sugar to half a pint of water, boiled till it thickens.

_Loving Cup._

One pint of mountain wine, one of Madeira, and one of Lisbon, one bottle of champagne, one liqueur-glass of pale brandy, three thin slices of lemon, sugar, nutmeg. Ice to taste.

_Djonka (a Russian Beverage)._

One pound and a half of lump sugar in very large lumps, one bottle of Cognac, one bottle of sherry or Madeira, three bottles of Moselle or hock, one bottle of champagne, half a pound of blanched almonds, the thinly shred rind of four lemons, four peaches sliced, or one pine-apple or preserved fruit. These are the ingredients. Now to prepare the nectar. On a large well-tinned copper stewpan place a gridiron, and on the gridiron the big lumps of sugar. Pour by degrees the Cognac over the sugar, lighting it as you pour it on. The sugar dissolves through the bars of the gridiron, and the spirit is burnt out: this constitutes caramel. Next add the sherry and fruity materials, which allow to digest for fifteen minutes, after which pour in the Moselle, and transfer the compound into a bowl. On serving add a bottle of champagne. Serve round in flat champagne-glasses with a spoon to each for extracting the fruit. (_Cutler._)

ODE TO BEER.

Hail, beer! In all thy forms of Porter, Stingo, Stout, Swipes, Double X, Ale, Heavy, Out and Out, Most dear. Hail! thou that mak'st man's heart as big as Jove's, Of Ceres' gifts the best, That furnishest A cure for all our griefs, a barm for all our--loaves.

Oh! Sir John Barleycorn, thou glorious Knight of Malt-a, May thy fame never alter: Great Britain's Bacchus! pardon all our failings, And with thy Ale ease all our ailings. I've emptied many a barrel in my time-- And, may be, shall empty many more Before O'er the Styx I sail. E'en when an infant I was fond of Ale, A sort of Ale-y-baby, And still I love, in spite of gibes and jokes Of wine-ing folks. For Stout I've stoutly fought for many a year, For Ale I'll fight till I'm laid on my bier. October! oh, intoxicating name! no drink That e'er was made on earth can match with thee. Of best French brandy in the Palais Royal I've emptied many a phial, And think That double X beats O.D.V. On thy banks, Rhine, I've drank such wine As Bacchus' self might well unsober; But, oh! Johannisberg thy beams are shorn By our John Barleycorn, And Hock is not Hock-tober. As for the rest, Cape, Claret, Calcavella, They are but "leather and prunella," Stale, flat, and musty. By the side of Ale Imperial Tokay Itself gives way, Sherry turns pale, And Port grows crusty. Rum, Whisky, Hollands seem so much sour crout, And Hodges's Mountain-Dew turns out A mere Hodge-Podge. Of _Bishops_ e'en, god wot! I don't much like the flavour, Politically speaking (but, then, politics are not My trade); Exception should be made In Doctor _Maltby's_ favour. "In vino veritas" they say; but that's a fable, A most egregious blunder. I've been at many a wine-bibbing ere now, And vow, For one that told the truth across the table, I've seen a dozen _lying_ under. Besides, as old Sam Johnson said once, I've no patience With men who never tell the sober truth But when they're drunk, and aren't to be believed, forsooth, Except in their _lie_-bations. Oh! do not think, you who these praises hear, Don't think my muse be-mused with beer, Nor that in speaking thus my pleasure I go beyond beer measure. But stay, It's time to end this lay; Tho' I could go on rhyming for a year In praise of Beer, And think it sport; But many folks I know like something short.

BEER CUPS.

These cups should always be made with good sound ale, but not too strong; and should invariably be drank from the tankard, and not poured into glasses, as they are generally more agreeable to the taste than to the sight, and it is imperative that they should be kept hot.

_Hot Ale Cup._

To a quart of ale, heated, add two wine-glasses of gin, one wine-glass of sherry, two tablespoonfuls of American bitters, plenty of cloves and cinnamon, and four tablespoonfuls of moist sugar.

_Copus Cup._

Heat two quarts of ale; add four wine-glasses of brandy, three wine-glasses of noyau, a pound of lump sugar, and the juice of one lemon. Toast a slice of bread, stick a slice of lemon on it with a dozen cloves, over which grate some nutmeg, and serve hot.

_Donaldson's Beer Cup._

To a pint of ale add the peel of half a lemon, half a liqueur-glass of noyau, a bottle of seltzer-water, a little nutmeg and sugar, and ice to taste.

_Freemasons' Cup._

A pint of Scotch ale, a pint of mild beer, half a pint of brandy, a pint of sherry, half a pound of loaf sugar, and plenty of grated nutmeg. This cup may be drank either hot or cold.

_Egg Flip._

Add the whites and yolks of three eggs, beaten together with three ounces of lump sugar, to half a pint of strong ale; heat the mixture nearly to the boiling-point; then put in two wine-glasses of gin or rum (the former being preferable), with some grated nutmeg and ginger; add another pint of hot ale, and pour the mixture frequently from one jug to another before serving.

LIQUEURS.

Under this head we supply only a few recipes which, by experience, we know to be good, omitting a long list of the rarer and finer kinds which are imported from abroad, with the advice that it is better to purchase liqueurs of first-rate quality from a first-class house, rather than produce an inferior article of one's own making.

_Curaçoa._

To every wine-quart of the best pale brandy add the very finely pared rinds of two Seville oranges and of one lemon, and let the mixture stand for three weeks. Then carefully strain off the liquid, and add as much finely powdered sugar-candy as the liquid will dissolve (about a pound to each bottle). The mixture should be frequently shaken, for a month. If the rind of a shaddock can be procured, a third part of it, mixed with the orange, will impart a peculiar aromatic and very delicious flavour to the cordial. Gin, rum, or whisky may be substituted for brandy in this recipe, but not with an equally good effect.

_Cherry Brandy._

To each wine-bottle of brandy add a pound of Morello cherries (not too ripe), and half a pint of the expressed juice of the small black cherry called "Brandyblacks." Let this stand for a week, and then add half a pound of powdered lump sugar and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar-candy, with half an ounce of blanched bitter almonds. The longer it is kept, the better it will become. Where the juice of the black cherry cannot be obtained, sirup of mulberries will be found an excellent substitute.

_Brandy Bitters._

To each gallon of brandy add seven ounces of sliced gentian-root, five ounces of dried orange-peel, two ounces of seeds of cardamoms, one ounce of bruised cinnamon, half an ounce of cloves, and a small quantity of cochineal to colour it. Many other ingredients may be added which complicate the flavour; but none will make the above compound more wholesome or palatable.

_Ginger Brandy._

To each bottle of brandy add two ounces of the best ginger bruised; let it stand for a week; then strain the liquid through muslin, and add a pound of finely powdered sugar-candy. This should be kept at least one year.

_Hunting-flask._

As to the best compound for a hunting-flask, it will seldom be found that any two men perfectly agree; yet, as a rule, the man who carries the largest, and is most liberal with it to his friends, will be generally esteemed the best concocter. Some there are who prefer to all others a flask of gin into which a dozen cloves have been inserted, while others, younger in age and more fantastic in taste, believe in equal parts of gin and noyau, or of sherry and Maraschino. For our own part, we must admit a strong predilection for a pull at a flask containing a well-made cold punch, or a dry Curaçoa. Then, again, if we take the opinion of our huntsman, who (of course) is a _spicy_ fellow, and ought to be up in such matters, he recommends a piece of dry ginger always kept in the waistcoat pocket; and does not care a _fig_ for anything else. So much for difference of taste: but as we have promised a recipe, the one we venture to insert is specially dedicated to the lovers of usquebaugh, or "the crathur:" it was a favourite of no less a man than Robert Burns, and one we believe not generally known; we therefore hope it will find favour with our readers, as a wind-up to our brewings.

To a quart of whisky add the rinds of two lemons, an ounce of bruised ginger, and a pound of ripe white currants stripped from their stalks. Put these ingredients into a covered vessel, and let them stand for a few days; then strain carefully, and add one pound of powdered loaf sugar. This may be bottled two days after the sugar has been added.

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