Travel

Cruisings in the Cascades A Narrative of Travel, Exploration, Amateur Photography, Hunting, and Fishing

The Benefits, Mental and Physical, of Mountain Climbing--A Never-failing Means of Obtaining Sound Sleep and a Good Appetite--The Work to be in Proportion to the Strength of the Climber--People Who Would Like to See, but are Too Lazy to Climb--How the Photograph Camera May Enha...

Chapters

56. CHAPTER XXV.

There is, perhaps, no large mammal in this country of which the scientific world and the reading public in general knows so little as of the Rocky Mountain goat (_Aplocerus Mont...

61. CHAPTER XXX.

The workings of the law of evolution are plainly discernible in the development of the "cowboy," a certain prominent and now well-defined character of the far West--one that was...

57. CHAPTER XXVI.

In September, 1884, I joined a party of genial sportsmen at Fort Missoula, Mont., for a month's outing in the Bitter Root Mountains. Our special mission was to hunt large game;...

54. CHAPTER XXIII.

Of all the numerous species of large game to be found in the far West, there is none whose pursuit furnishes grander sport to the expert rifleman than the antelope (_Antilocapra...

55. CHAPTER XXIV.

The "Texas boom" was at its height in 1876, and there was a grand rush of emigrants of all nationalities and conditions of people to the then New Eldorado. Thousands of men went...

52. CHAPTER XXI.

The bear, like man, inhabits almost every latitude and every land, and has even been translated to the starry heavens, where the constellations of the Great Dipper and the Littl...

62. CHAPTER XXXI.

Descriptions of cattle roundups in the far West have been written, and yet many of the characteristic scenes that the spectator at one of these semi-annual "beef-gathering parti...

53. CHAPTER XXII.

Of all the large game on the American continent, the elk (_Cervus canadensis_) is the noblest, the grandest, the stateliest. I would detract nothing from the noble game qualitie...

58. CHAPTER XXVII.

Northern Wisconsin is one vast and almost unbroken deer range. It is penetrated by several railroads, along the immediate lines of which are a few small farms and some fair-size...

35. CHAPTER IV.

Puget Sound is a great inland sea, extending nearly 200 miles from the ocean, having a surface of about 2,000 square miles, and a shore line of 1,594 miles, indented with numero...

59. CHAPTER XXVIII.

Early autumn's frosts had tinged the foliage of the birch, maple, oak, and elm trees, that intermingle in the great pine forests, with a thousand rich colors and shades of gold,...

60. CHAPTER XXIX.

Mr. George T. Pease lives in a log shanty, in the heart of the great Wisconsin pine woods, five miles west of Wausaukee station, on the Milwaukee & Northern Railroad. A beautifu...

33. CHAPTER II.

Each succeeding autumn, for years past, has found me in some range of mountains, camping, hunting, fishing, climbing, and taking views. The benefits I have derived from these ex...

51. CHAPTER XX.

We were out at daylight the next morning and hunted all day with fair success. Johnston and Billy jumped a bunch of five mule-deer, a buck, two does, and two fawns. Johnston fir...

50. CHAPTER XIX.

I stopped off at Spokane Falls, on my way home, for a few days' deer hunting, and though that region be not exactly in the Cascades, it is so near that a few points in relation...

38. CHAPTER VII.

I was not compelled to eat with George and Mary, for Mr. Barker had kindly invited me to breakfast with him, and when I reached his store, at the breakfast hour in the morning,...

46. CHAPTER XV.

Ski-ik-kul, or Chehalis Creek, as the whites call it, is surely one of the most beautiful streams in the whole Cascade Range. Its size may be stated, approximately, as two feet...

48. CHAPTER XVII.

After making a hearty breakfast on Rocky Mountain kid, salmon, and sea biscuits, we began our return journey down the creek in a drizzling rain. Our burdens were increased by th...

37. CHAPTER VI.

For many years I had read, heard, and dreamed of the Frazer, that mysterious stream which flows out from among the icy fastnesses of the Cascades, in the far-off confines of Bri...

40. CHAPTER IX.

In the morning I got up early to look for Douglass Bill, thinking and hoping he might have landed during the night, but no one had seen him and there was no strange canoe in the...

47. CHAPTER XVI.

Before going to bed, Seymour cautioned me through his interpreter, the faithful John, against getting out too early in the morning. He said the goats did not commence to move ar...

39. CHAPTER VIII.

Above the rapids we had a lovely reach of river, from a quarter to half a mile wide, with no perceptible current. Impelled by our united efforts, our light cedar canoe shot over...

34. CHAPTER III.

The Oregon Railway & Navigation Company's steamers leave Tacoma, for Seattle, at four o'clock in the morning, and at six-thirty in the evening, so we were unable to see this por...

41. CHAPTER X.

The Flathead nation, to which nearly all the Puget Sound Indians belong, may almost be termed amphibians; for though they can, and do in some cases, live inland exclusively, the...

42. CHAPTER XI.

I had left my bedding at the Hot Springs Hotel, and returning to get it staid there all night. Early next morning (Friday, November 12) we crossed Harrison Lake, in a drenching...

44. CHAPTER XIII.

On our return to Chehalis--that town of unsavory odors and salmon-drying, salmon-smoking Siwashes--I at once employed two other Indians, named John and Seymour, and, on the foll...

36. CHAPTER V.

At daylight in the morning we entered English Bay, having crossed the strait during the night. The sun climbed up over the snow-mantled mountains into a cloudless sky, and his r...

45. CHAPTER XIV.

Long after the Indians went to sleep I lay there, looking into the fire and thinking. Many and varied were the fancies that chased each other through my restless brain--some ple...

43. CHAPTER XII.

Chinook is a queer jargon. It is said to have been manufactured many years ago by an employe of the Hudson Bay Fur Company, who taught the principal chiefs of various Indian tri...

32. CHAPTER I.

For anyone who has the courage, the hardihood, and the physical strength to endure the exercise, there is no form of recreation or amusement known to mankind that can yield such...

49. CHAPTER XVIII.

On arriving at Chehalis John kindly invited me to stop over night with him, but I declined with thanks. I went into his house, however, to wait while he got ready to take me dow...

30. CHAPTER XXX.

Cowboy Life--The Boys that Become Good Range Riders--Peculiar Tastes and Talents Required for the Ranch--Wages Paid to Cowboys--Abuse and Misrepresentation to which They are Sub...

4. CHAPTER IV.

Length, Breadth, and Depth of Puget Sound--Natural Resources of the Surrounding Country--Flora and Fauna of the Region--Great Variety of Game Birds and Animals--Large Variety of...

7. CHAPTER VII.

A Breakfast with the Bachelor--Up Harrison River in a Canoe--Dead Salmon Everywhere--Their Stench Nauseating--The Water Poisoned with Carrion--A Good Goose Spoiled with an Expre...

1. CHAPTER I.

The Benefits, Mental and Physical, of Mountain Climbing--A Never-failing Means of Obtaining Sound Sleep and a Good Appetite--The Work to be in Proportion to the Strength of the...

31. CHAPTER XXXI.

A Montana Roundup--Ranges and Ranches on Powder River; Once the Home of the Buffalo, the Elk, the Antelope; now the Home of the Texas Steer and the Cowboy--The Great Plains in S...

27. CHAPTER XXVII.

Deer Hunting in Northern Wisconsin--On the Range at Daylight--The Woods Full of Game--Missing a Standing "Broadside" at Thirty Yards--Several Easy Shots in Rapid Succession; the...

9. CHAPTER IX.

An Early Morning Climb--A Thousand Feet Above the Lake--Fresh Deer Signs in Sight of the Hotel--Three Indians Bring in Three Deer--"Douglass Bill" Proves as Big a Liar as Other...

26. CHAPTER XXVI.

Trouting in the Mountains--Gameness of the Mountain Trout--A Red Letter Day on the Bitter Root--Frontier Tackle and Orthodox Bait--How a Private Soldier Gets to the Front as an...

2. CHAPTER II.

The Cascade Mountains Compared with the Rockies--Characteristics and Landmarks of the Former--The Proper Season for Cruising in the Cascades--Grand Scenery of the Columbia--View...

17. CHAPTER XVII.

En Route to the Village Again--A Water-Soaked Country--"Oh, What a Fall was There, My Countrymen!"--Walking on Slippery Logs--More Rain--Wet Indians--"Semo He Spile de Grouse"--...

3. CHAPTER III.

The City of Seattle--A Booming Western Town--Lumbering and Salmon Canning--Extensive Hop Ranches--Rich Coal and Iron Mines--Timber Resources of Puget Sound--Giant Firs and Cedar...

16. CHAPTER XVI.

Seymour Advises a Late Start for Goat Hunting; but His Council is Disregarded--We Start at Sunrise--A Queer Craft--Navigating Ski-ik-kul Lake--A "Straight-up" Shot at a Goat--Bo...

11. CHAPTER XI.

Climbing the Mountain in a Rainstorm-Pean's Dirty Blankets--His Careful Treatment of His Old Musket--A Novel Charge for Big Game--The Chatter of the Pine Squirrel--A Shot Throug...

25. CHAPTER XXV.

Hunting the Rocky Mountain Goat--Technical Description of the Animal--Its Limited Range--Dangers Incurred in Hunting It--An Army Officer's Experience--A Perilous Shot--A Long an...

12. CHAPTER XII.

The Chinook Jargon; an Odd Conglomeration of Words; the Court Language of the Northwest; a Specimen Conversation--A Camp on the Mountain Side--How the Indian Tried to Sleep Warm...

13. CHAPTER XIII.

The Return to the Village--Two New Guides Employed--Off for the Mountains Once More--The Tramp up Ski-ik-kul Creek Through Jungles, Gulches, and Canyons--And Still it Rains--Rav...

20. CHAPTER XX.

A Fusilade on the Mule Deer--Two Does as the Result--A Good Shot Spoiled--View from the Top of Blue Grouse Mountain--A Grand Panorama; Lakes, Mountains, Prairies and Forests--Jo...

5. CHAPTER V.

Through English Bay--Water Fowls that Seem Never to Have Been Hunted--Rifle Practice that was Soon Interrupted--Peculiarities of Burrard Inlet--Vancouver and Port Moody--A Stage...

6. CHAPTER VI.

The Voyage up the Frazier--Delicious Peaches Growing in Sight of Glaciers--The Detective Camera Again to the Front--Good Views from the Moving Steamer--A Night in an Indian Hut-...

28. CHAPTER XXVIII.

Among the Pines--A Picture of Autumnal Loveliness--Cordial Welcome to a Logging Camp--A Successful Shot--The Music of the Dinner Horn--A Throat Cut and a Leg Broken--A Stump for...

29. CHAPTER XXIX.

A Typical Woodsman--Model Home in the Great Pine Forest--A Lifetime in the Wilderness--A Deer in a Natural Trap--Disappointment and Despondency--"What, You Killed a Buck!"--Sunr...

24. CHAPTER XXIV.

Buffalo Hunting on the Texas Plains--A "Bull Train" Loaded with Skins--A Sensation in Fort Worth--En Route to the Range--Red River Frank's Mission--A Stand on the Herd--Deluged...

8. CHAPTER VIII.

The River Above the Rapids--A Lake Within Basaltic Walls--Many Beautiful Waterfalls--Mount Douglas and its Glaciers--A Trading Post of the Hudson Bay Fur Company--The Hot Spring...

18. CHAPTER XVIII.

John and His Family "At Home"--An Interesting Picture of Domestic Economy--Rifle Practice on Gulls and Grebes--Puzzled Natives--"Phwat Kind of Burds is Them?"--A day on the Colu...

21. CHAPTER XXI.

Hunting the Grizzly Bear--Habitat and Characteristics--A Camp Kettle as a Weapon of Defense--To the Rescue with a Winchester--Best Localities for Hunting the Grizzly--Baiting an...

22. CHAPTER XXII.

Elk Hunting in the Rocky Mountains--Characteristics of the Elk--His Mode of Travel--A Stampede in a Thicket--The Whistle of the Elk, the Hunter's Sweetest Music--Measurements of...

15. CHAPTER XV.

The Beauties of Ski-ik-kul Creek; a Raging Mountain Torrent; Rapids and Waterfalls Everywhere; Picturesque Tributaries--Above the Tree Tops--The Pleasure of Quenching Thirst--A...

14. CHAPTER XIV.

Meditations by a Camp Fire--Suspicions as to the Honesty of My Guides; at Their Mercy in Case of Stealthy Attack--A Frightful Fall--Broken Bones and Intense Suffering--A Painful...

10. CHAPTER X.

Characteristics of the Flathead Indians--Canoeists and Packers by Birth and Education--A Skillful Canoe Builder--Freighting Canoes--Fishing Canoes--Traveling Canoes--Two Cords o...

19. CHAPTER XIX.

Deer Hunting at Spokane Falls--Ruin Wrought by an Overloaded Shotgun: A Tattered Vest and a Wrecked Watch--Billy's Bear Story--The Poorest Hunter Makes the Biggest Score--A Claw...

23. CHAPTER XXIII.