Part 3

Continue increasing 1 stitch on each row always on the same side and being careful to carry out the directions for the pattern until there are 19 stitches on the pin. Keep outside edge straight. Then work until stripe is desired length and decrease by knitting together 2 stitches at the same end of every row as the increasing was done. Sew up the mitered corners and sew or crochet border on working from wrong side, as before.

ANGORA ROSEBUD CAP.

(Six months size.)

Materials Required:

3 balls (½ oz.) Three Rabbit Angora wool, or 9 small balls. 1 amber crochet hook, No. 3.

Work rather loosely.

Ch. 3 and join in a ring. Make six single crochet stitches (6 s. c.) in the ring. Do not join as the work is done around and around both threads of stitch of previous round being taken up throughout the work.

Second round: 2 s. c. in each stitch.

Third round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in each of the next two stitches and repeat from * all around.

Fourth round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in each of the next 4 stitches and repeat from * all around.

Continue working, increasing just enough to keep the work perfectly flat, until the crown is four inches in diameter. For a larger size this diameter must be increased. There are 12 rounds in the model cap. At the end of last round, turn and work back for 10 stitches (about 2 inches) to form the neck rows. Turn, * skip one stitch, 1 s. c. in next and repeat from * 5 stitches on neck. Put one more s. c. in last stitch then work around crown to the other end of the neck rows, putting 1 s. c. in each stitch of previous round. Turn. Work back and forth to form front of cap without widening for 24 rows, in all, being careful to make first and last stitches of each row rather tighter than the rest so that the neck of cap is kept a good shape. There are 56 stitches on these rows on the model cap, which measure 12½ inches from end to end. The front should now be the desired depth, if not add more rows.

Final row of front: 19 s. c., 1 s. c. through the next two stitches taken together, 3 s. c., narrow as before, 4 s. c., narrow, 3 s. c., narrow, 19 s. c.

Chain 3, turn and work a row of ribbon holes across neck part, as follows: * skip 2 rows, 1 d. c. in the end of next row, ch. 1 and repeat from * all across, skipping one stitch on bottom of crown.

Border: ch. 3, * 1 s. c. in first stitch of front, chain 3, skip 3 and repeat from * all around front and neck, skipping fewer stitches at corners, to prevent capping.

Final round: * 1 s. c. in space, chain 3, one d. c. in same space and repeat from * all around.

DRESDEN BABY COAT.

Materials Required:

3 skeins Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. 2 skeins green, Glossilla Rope, No. 264. 1 skein pink, Glossilla Rope, No. 200. 2 skeins blue, Glossilla Rope, No. 108. 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long). 1 amber crochet hook, No. 2 (10 inches long).

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 20 skeins to the box Saxony. If the “12 skeins to the box” wool is used the amount will be proportionately less._)

The yoke is made first. Chain 80 and work in afghan stitch (see Bear Brand Manual of Handiwork) for fifteen rows. The shoulders are next to be formed. Pick up the first 29 stitches and on them make 2 rows, then 2 more rows, on each of these rows picking up an extra stitch at the neck end; then with another ball of wool add a chain of 16 there and on the 47 stitches work 16 rows.

On the next row, work as follows: pick up perpendicular bar as usual then draw wool through stitch on needle, thus working off. Continue in this way until 18 stitches remain and on these stitches work the front tab. This should measure eleven inches, from the neck to end. Work off stitches, as before. Go back to neck and omitting 22 stitches there, work the second shoulder on the remaining 29 stitches, taking care to keep them opposites.

For the lower part of jacket, using the knitting pins, cast on 140 stitches. Knit three rows.

Fourth row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. (see page 6) in first stitch, * 1 d. c. through the next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep stitches on pin, pick up a loop through the back of the same two stitches then slip them off pin and repeat from * ending row with 1 d. c. in the final stitch. These four rows constitute one pattern and are repeated over and over until sixteen patterns have been made. The arm holes are next to be made. On the fourth row of next pattern make 1 d. c. then 15 clusters as usual, then run all the remaining stitches on a thread or extra pin and on these 31 stitches work eight short rows, in all, and bind off. Take 31 stitches from the end of thread and make second front to match first. Bind off 4 stitches at each end of the remaining stitches for the armhole and on the 70 stitches left, make the back the same length as the fronts.

Sleeve. Cast on 48 stitches and make 11 patterns and three extra rows of plain knitting: then slip on hook and make 9 rows of afghan stitch for the cuff. Work off. Make second sleeve like first and sew up.

Around the neck make a row of ribbon holes, as follows: * 1 d. c., ch. 1, skip 1 and repeat from * all across, make 1 row of s. c. and fasten off. Baste the lower part of jacket to the yoke, holding the extra fullness across the back and fronts evenly. Join to yoke with slip stitches worked on wrong side. Sew sleeves in place.

Work pearl edge on all the edges and around the yoke and top of cuffs, as follows: 1 s. c. around the post of foundation, ch. 3, wool over hook and pick up a loop through s. c. just made, wool over and pick up another loop in same place * skip 1 stitch on foundation, draw a loop around the next stitch and through all the loops on hook, ch. 3. Wool over and through the third ch. from hook, wool over and through the same place and repeat from *.

Embroider the Dresden figures, as illustrated.

DRESDEN BABY CAP.

Materials Required:

2 skeins Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. 1 skein each, Glossilla Rope, Nos. 264, 200, 108. 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long.) 1 amber crochet hook, No. 2 (10 inches long).

Chain 16 and work in afghan stitch for 2 rows. On the third row widen one stitch when beginning and ending row by picking up an extra loop. Continue to work in afghan stitch, widening, as before, on the sixth, eleventh, fifteenth and twentieth rows. On each of the next seven rows narrow one stitch at each end of row by picking up 2 perpendicular threads together. This completes the back of cap.

Front band: chain 122 and make 13 rows in afghan stitch, finishing final row as directed for Dresden Baby Coat.

The center of cap is in Cro-Knitting. It is begun at the front. Using the knitting pins cast on 118 stitches and work as directed for lower part of coat.

On the third row of second pattern, work as follows: k. 28, * k. 2 in the next stitch, k. 1 and repeat from * until 28 stitches remain, k. 28. Continue without further increase until there are 11 patterns, in all, then knit 3 rows and bind off.

Join the Cro-Knitted center to the front with slip stitches worked on the wrong side. Draw the other edge in on a gathering thread of wool and sew around the back of crown.

Around the entire cap and the joinings work in pearls, as directed for coat.

Embroider the Dresden figures, as illustrated.

Line the cap with silk.

DRESDEN BOOTEES.

Materials Required:

1 skein Bear Brand Saxony, 3-fold. 1 skein each, Glossilla Rope, Nos. 264, 200, 108. 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2 (10 in. long.) 1 amber crochet hook, No. 2.

Using the crochet hook, chain 12 and work in afghan stitch for 27 rows. On the next row narrow by picking up the second and third perpendicular threads together, also the two just before the final stitch. Make one more row in same way and work off as directed.

Fasten wool to the tenth row from point, ch. 26 and join to same place on other side of afghan stripe. On these stitches the foot is to be made. Make 1 s. c. in each stitch all around leg and tab, putting an extra s. c. in each corner of the tab.

Continue working around and around in s. c., taking up both threads of stitch of preceding round until 4 rounds, in all, have been made, on each round putting 2 s. c. in the stitch on each side of the center stitch of tab.

On the next round leave 3 stitches in the center of tab, working 1 s. c. in each and increase in the stitches on each side of them, in the regular way. Sixth and seventh rounds: narrow each side of center stitch by skipping a stitch there. Eighth and ninth rounds: narrow at toe and also at heel by skipping 1 stitch at each side of center of heel.

Turn bootee and join with s. c.

Make a row of ribbon holes around the back of bootee, as follows: fasten wool in the 12th row from point of afghan stitch tab * ch. 1, skip 1, 1 d. c. in next and repeat from * all across.

With the knitting pin pick up a loop in each stitch of preceding row and knit 2 rows.

First pattern row: which should be worked on the wrong side of bootee. With crochet hook make 1 d. c. in first stitch, * 1 d. c. through the next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep stitches on pin, pick up a loop through the back of the same 2 stitches then slip them off pin and repeat from * ending row with 1 d. c. in the final stitch.

Knit 3 rows. These four rows constitute one pattern. Repeat until there are six patterns in all, and bind off.

Work all around tab and top of bootee with pearls, as directed for coat.

Embroider with Dresden figures, as illustrated and trim with ribbon.

KNITTED ANGORA BOOTEES.

Materials Required:

2 balls (½ oz.) Three Rabbit Angora Wool or 8 small balls. 1 pair Bear Brand nickeled knitting pins, No. 8. 1 small bone crochet hook.

Cast on 30 stitches. Purl 1 row, knit 1 row, * purl 2 rows, knit 2 rows. Repeat from * twice, then purl 2 rows.

Seventeenth row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and repeat from *, ending row with k. 1. Purl one row.

The foot of the bootee is in plain garter stitch throughout. First row: k. 14, over, k. 2, over, k. 14. Second row: plain.

Repeat the first and second rows until 21 rows in all have been made for the foot. On each widened row there will be one more stitch on each side of the widenings that are required to shape the front. The 2 center stitches are knitted between widenings always.

On the 52 stitches, on needle, knit 5 rows.

Twenty-seventh and twenty-ninth rows: narrow by knitting the second and third stitches together and the two next to last stitches together. All the even numbered rows are plain, without increase or decrease.

Thirty-first row: k. 1, narrow (k. 2 tog.), k. 16, narrow, k. 6, narrow, k. 16, narrow, k. 1.

Thirty-third row: k. 1, narrow, k. 14, narrow, k. 6, narrow, k. 14, narrow, k. 1.

Thirty-fifth row: k. 1, narrow, k. 12, narrow, k. 2, narrow, k. 2, narrow, k. 12, narrow, k. 1.

Bind off. Sew up the back seam and sole: then crochet an edge of tiny shells around the top, as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. in same place, skip 2 stitches and repeat from *.

DRESDEN BABY AFGHAN.

Materials Required:

11 skeins white, Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 2 skeins green Glossilla Rope, No. 264. 2 skeins blue Glossilla Rope, No. 108. 1 skein pink Glossilla Rope, No. 200. 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 4, 14 inches long. 1 amber crochet hook No. 4, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

The Cro-Knitted center of afghan is made first. Cast on 98 stitches and work as directed for lower part of “Dresden Baby Coat” (see page 25) until 40 patterns have been made. The work should be about 21 inches wide and 28 inches deep. Bind off.

BORDER: chain 108 and work in afghan stitch as directed for “Afghan Stitch Stripe” (see page 36) for 7 rows, widening by picking up an extra stitch at each end of every row. The first of these rows should be the exact width of the Cro-Knitted center. Final row: pick up loop, as usual, then draw wool through loop on hook.

For the afghan stitch side stripe, chain 7 and make stripe same length as center, narrowing one stitch (by picking up last two bars together) on the _same_ side of each of the last seven rows to form the mitered corner. Make another stripe in same manner, taking care to keep them opposites. Sew up the mitered corners, then baste border to center. Use the wrong side of the fourth row of center as the right side of the work. Holding the right side of afghan stitch border toward you, make 1 short, double crochet stitch (1 s. d. c.) as follows through the first afghan stitch and the center: wool over and draw a loop through stitch, wool over and through all three loops on hook. Repeat in each stitch on all three sides of afghan, putting extra stitches at corners, to prevent capping. Holding the wrong side of work toward you, make a round of s. d. c. in same manner on the edge of afghan stitch border. Turn.

Work back around the three sides in double crochet stitches, putting the stitches between the s. d. c. stitches of preceding round. Put 3 d. c. in each corner. Fasten off.

Go back to other end and make puffs around the three sides, as follows: * 5 d. c. in the first stitch, drop loop and insert hook through the first d. c. made, draw loop through, ch. 1, skip 1 stitch of preceding round and repeat from *. After the ch. 1 draw loop, on hook, up a little to prevent work from drawing in at the top. Do not skip any stitches at the corners, but skip 2 stitches between puffs when working across the bottom of afghan. Fasten off.

Go back, as before, * 1 d. c. in the top of puff, 1 d. c. in the next chain and repeat from * on all three sides. Extra stitches in corners. Fasten off.

Final round: 1 s. c. in first stitch, * ch. 4—wool over and pick up a loop in first ch. made, wool over and through 2 loops on hook, repeat from—three times, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, skip 2 stitches, 1 s. c. in next and repeat from *. Skip only one stitch on each side of corners, to prevent capping.

TURN OVER: ch. 122 and work 3 rows in afghan stitch. On the fourth row narrow by picking up second and third bars together, also the two bars just preceding the final bar together. Repeat these four rows, twice; then narrow on every third row three times. Narrow on every second row until there are 30 rows in all, then work off as final row of afghan border was done. Sew to top of afghan, then make the five border rounds, as before, beginning with the short, double crochet round.

Embroider as illustrated.

_For detail of embroidery see page 26._

CHILD’S NORFOLK.

Materials Required:

11 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold. 1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 7 (14 in. long). 1 amber crochet hook, No. 7, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

Cast on 46 stitches for the lower edge of sleeve. K. 2, p. 2 for 15 rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purls). Knit the first stitch on needle throughout. On the 41st row increase by knitting 2 stitches in the first and last stitches of row. Continue to increase, in this way, on every fifth row until there are 56 stitches on the pin, then work, without increasing, until there are 90 rows (45 purls) in all, for the sleeve. Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these stitches and the 56 sleeve stitches, then cast on 70 more stitches. On these 196 stitches knit 30 rows. On the next row, k. 32, bind off 6 stitches for belt opening of front, knit until 42 stitches remain unworked, then bind off 6 stitches for belt opening in back. On the next row, cast on 12 stitches which were bound off for openings.

The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made. Beginning at the lower edge of the front make first fancy row, as follows: with crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch on knitting pin, slip loop from pin * pull a loop through next stitch, pull another loop through the back of same stitch, slip stitch from pin, pull a loop through front of next stitch and another through back of same stitch, hold stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops on hook, ch. 1, pull a loop through back stitch of cluster, then slip stitch from pin, wool over and repeat from * until one stitch remains, do not throw wool over after last cluster, draw loop through final stitch.

Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and the stitch that was thrown over together, k. 1 and repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k. 3.

Knit 2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, knit 2 plain rows and again repeat the two fancy rows. This completes the band. It will be noticed that the wrong side of the first fancy row is shown on the right side of band.

Knit 11 rows on the first two of these rows, make openings for belt as made on the other side of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at the lower edge of back. Knit 98 stitches for the length of back and run remaining stitches on to a thread; turn, k. the first 2 stitches together then knit to the end of row. At the end of next row knit the last 2 stitches together to shape the neck. Knit 22 rows, then 2 rows, increasing 1 stitch on each row, at neck end. Run these stitches on an extra pin or thread, but do not fasten off wool. Take another ball and make right front. Cast on 94 stitches and knit 4 rows, make two fancy rows of Cro-Knitting, knit 1 row, on the next row make button holes, as follows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat from *. Eight button holes, in all. On the next row cast on 3 stitches opposite those bound off. Knit one row then repeat the two fancy rows. Knit 8 rows, then 4 rows increasing one stitch at the neck end of each row. The last row should end at the neck. Fasten off wool.

Take the stitches of the back from the thread on to knitting pin beginning with the stitch at the lower edge of back and with the ball of wool left there work to the lower edge of the front. Knit 12 plain rows not forgetting the belt openings, then repeat Cro-Knitting band as made on first side. Make second side of back and sleeve to match first side. After finishing the 15 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing on second sleeve, knit 2 plain rows then repeat the Cro-Knitting band as made on body of garment, making four patterns instead of three to form the turn back cuff. Make two extra plain rows and bind off.

Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve and on them knit second cuff to match first one made.

Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them knit the left front, as follows: knit 4 rows, decreasing by knitting 2 stitches together at the neck end of each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off on wrong side.

Pick up 52 stitches around neck and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy Cro-Knitting rows, knit 1 row. Eighth row: k. 3, bind off 3, knit to end. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches bound off for the button hole. Knit 1 row, 2 fancy rows, knit 1 row and bind off.

Belt: cast on 134 stitches and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 2 rows then bind off on wrong side.

Sew up under arm seams and sleeves.

STAR STITCH SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.

Materials Required:

7 skeins white, Bear Brand Shetland Floss (12 skeins to the box). 2 skeins of darkest contrasting color. 1 skein each, of two next lighter shades. 1 pair No. 11 amber knitting pins (14 in. long). 1 amber crochet hook No. 11, same length.

The entire scarf is made of two threads of Shetland Floss. Wind the balls separately.

Using two threads of white cast on 187 stitches, loosely, for the length of scarf which should be about two yards. Knit 2 rows: then drop one thread of white and fasten on a thread of the lightest shade of Floss and knit 2 rows. Make two rows of next shade and 2 rows of the darkest shade always carrying one thread of white wool. For the center of stripe make 2 rows of two threads of the darkest shade. Work back reversing the shades to match first half, finishing stripe with 2 rows of all white. The star stitch stripe is next to be made.

First row: use white wool and change to crochet hook. Insert hook into first stitch on pin and pull a loop through (retaining stitch on knitting pin). Ch. 2, skip first chain, pick up a loop in second chain from hook, one in the first loop, which is then slipped from pin, then a loop in each of the next 2 stitches which are slipped off in turn, wool over and through 4 loops, ch. 1. There are now two stitches on crochet hook.

For the second star, * draw wool through eye of preceding star (the little hole formed by stitch just made), through back of last loop of preceding star and through each of the next 2 stitches on the knitting pin, wool over and through 4, ch. 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Turn.

Second row: with knitting pin * pick up a loop in eye of first star, knit next stitch and repeat from * all along row, ending with knitting the final stitch. Be careful not to widen there. There are again as many stitches on needle as for the first row.

Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and repeat from * to the end of the row.

Fourth row: plain knitting, knit each over as a stitch. Make another shaded stripe like first one omitting the two rows of all white knitting when beginning stripe, but making them at the end of stripe.

Repeat the four rows for star stitch stripe and then the first and second rows. Make 2 rows of plain knitting all white, then make the shaded stripe. When the center of this stripe has been made, the scarf is half finished. Make second half to match first and bind off loosely.

Run a thread of wool across each end to draw work in shape before knotting on the fringe.

Cut the wool for fringe in 10 inch lengths and knot 4 strands for each tassel. Put a tassel in the end of each purl (2 rows) and arrange the colors to correspond to the shaded stripes.

LATTICE WORK SHOPPING BAG.

Materials Required:

7 balls, Bear Macramé, No. 100. 1 Wood Lattice pin No. 3. 1 Star crochet hook, No. 1. 1 pair 4 inch embroidery hoops for handles.

Chain 238: turn, slip ball and end of chain through one of the hoops, skip 12 stitches and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) on the horizontal thread on the back of next chain, thus joining handle to work. Continue making 1 s. c. in the horizontal thread of each chain until 50 chains remain unworked—176 s. c. in all. Turn.

Second row: make 1 slip stitch, as follows on the back thread of first stitch; insert the hook and draw cord through stitch and loop on hook. Repeat in each of the next 137 stitches. Turn.

Third row: 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the 138 stitches of first row, being careful to work into the first and last stitches, which are inclined to draw down and be overlooked.

Lattice row (fourth row): draw up the loop on hook and slip it on the lattice pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of cord through the double thread of second stitch, slip it on pin, draw working thread in place and repeat from * in each stitch of third row. 138 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.