Part 2

YOKE: With C hook, A and right side facing, work 26 sc across 3 blocks of body (right front), place a marker, work 33 sc around one sleeve, place a marker, work 44 sc across 5 blocks of body (back), place a marker, work 33 sc around other sleeve, place a marker, work 26 sc across last 3 blocks (left front). Ch 1 to turn. Row 2: * 1 dc in each st to within 2 sts from next marker, yo pull up a loop in next st, yo pull through 2 loops leaving 2 loops on hook, yo pull up a loop in next st, yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 3 loops (1 dc decreased), slip marker, decrease 1 dc on next 2 sts; repeat from * across (8 sts dec on row). Ch 1 to turn. Repeat row 2 for 10 times more. Fasten off.

FINISHING: With A, right side facing, No. 1 hook and starting on right front at start of yoke, work sc along right front yoke, around neck and along left front yoke edge, placing 3 sc at each corner of neck. Fasten off A and attach B. Working backwards along row just completed (counter clockwise), * ch 1, skip 1 sc, hdc in next sc; repeat from * around yoke edges and neck. Fasten off. With double strand A, make a ch long enough to pull through neck edge and tie. Pull ch through neck edge. End of Tie: With A and No. 1 hook, ch 3, join with a sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. Rnd 2: 1 sc in each sc. Roll end of tie into cup shape and sew tog. Block lightly.

CAP

With A and No. C hook, ch 64 loosely. Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, * dc in next ch; repeat from * across, 62 dc (to measure about 10″ across). Ch 1 to turn. Row 2: 1 dc in each dc. Ch 1 to turn. Repeat row 2 for pattern st. Work even 3¾″. Next row: Leave off 20 sts, attach yarn and work dc on center 22 sts, leaving off the last 20 sts. Work even on the center 22 sts until piece measures the width of left off 20 sts at each side edge. Fasten off. Sew seams placing length of center piece to width of left off 20 sts at each side edge. Work 4 rows of sc across back of cap taking it in on first row to measure about 9″. Connect 5 daisies across in one line as shown for cuff. Crochet lower edge of daisies to front edge of cap with a row of sc. Tack daisies at each side edge. Sew on ribbon for ties.

BULKY YARN AFGHAN

Shown on front cover

SIZE: Approx. 50″ × 58″.

MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder and HERO King Size Crazy Daisy Winder. Bulky Knitting Worsted, 2 oz. skein, 14 Gold (A) and 13 Cardinal Red (B). Four oz. skein of Navy Knitting Worsted (C) for centers. HERO No. J aluminum crochet hook. Tapestry needle.

SMALL DAISY: With A, make 98 daisies on the Crazy Daisy Winder, winding yarn around spokes twice (see page 3 and instructions included with Crazy Daisy Winder), using C for sewing the centers.

LARGE DAISY: With B, make 97 daisies on the King Size Crazy Daisy Winder, winding yarn around spokes twice (see page 3 and instructions included with King Size Crazy Daisy Winder), using C for sewing the centers.

FIRST BLOCK: Small daisy. Rnd 1: With A, sc in back loop of a petal of small daisy leaving the top loop free, * ch 1, sc in back loop of next petal leaving top loop free; repeat from * around, end ch 1, join with a sl st to first sc. Rnd 2: * Ch 2, sc in next sp; repeat from * around, end join with a slip st. Fasten off A. Rnd 3: Attach B and sc in first sp, * ch 2, sc in next sp, ch 2, sc in next sp, ch 2, sc in next sp, ch 4, sl st back in base sc of ch for picot; repeat from * around, ending with ch 4, sl st in base sc to form 4th picot, join with a sl st to first sc and fasten off.

SECOND BLOCK: Large Daisy. With B, sc in double loop of a petal of large daisy, (ch 2, sc in next double loop of petal) 3 times, hold first block back to back with 2nd daisy, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot of first block, ch 2, sl st back into base sc on 2nd daisy to complete picot joining. (Ch 2, sc in first sp of first block, ch 2, sc in next double loop of 2nd daisy) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in picot of first block, ch 2, sl st back into base sc on 2nd daisy to complete picot joining. (Ch 2, sc in next double loop on 2nd daisy) 3 times, ch 4, sl st back into base sc to form a picot, (ch 2, sc in next double loop of petal on 2nd daisy) twice, ch 2, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 4, sl st back into base sc to form 4th picot. Fasten off securely.

THIRD BLOCK: Join a large daisy for third block to another side of first block. With B, sc in double loop of a petal of 3rd daisy, (ch 2, sc in next double loop of petal of 3rd daisy) 3 times, hold 3rd daisy back to back to first block, ch 2, sl st in sp of picot of first block, ch 2, sl st back into base sc on 3rd daisy to complete picot joining. (Ch 2, sc in first sp of first block, ch 2, sc in next double loop of petal of 3rd daisy) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in center between the 2 joined picots of first and second blocks, ch 2, sl st back into base sc on 3rd daisy. (Ch 2, sc in next double loop on 3rd daisy) 3 times, ch 4, sl st back into base sc to form a picot, (ch 2, sc in next double loop of petal) twice, ch 2, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 4, sl st back into base sc to form 4th picot. Fasten off securely.

FOURTH BLOCK: Join a small daisy to one side each of 2nd and 3rd blocks as follows: With A, work rnd 1 and rnd 2 as explained for first block. Rnd 3: Attach B and sc in first sp. * (Ch 2, sc in next sp) 3 times, hold 4th daisy back to back to 3rd block, ch 2, sl st in picot on 3rd block, ch 2, sl st back in base ch on 4th daisy to complete picot joining. (Ch 2, sc in first sp on 3rd block, ch 2, sc back in next sp on 4th block) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in center of picots, ch 2, sc back into base sc on 4th block (completion of a 4th picot at joining). (Ch 2, sc in next sp on 2nd block, ch 2, sc in next sp on 4th daisy) 3 times, ch 2, sl st in picot of 2nd block, ch 2, sl st back into base sc on 4th daisy (completion of connection picot), (ch 2, sc in next sp on 4th daisy) twice, ch 2, join with a sl st to first sc, ch 4, sl st back into base sc to form the 4th picot. Fasten off securely. Connect daisies in this manner, alternating a small and large daisy until there are 13 daisies across for width and 15 rows for length.

FINISHING: Block lightly on wrong side. Attach A at corner, with right side facing and working backwards (counter clockwise), ch 1, sc in corner space, * ch 1, sc in next space; repeat from * around always working 2 patterns in each corner and ending with 1 pattern in the starting corner. Join with a sl st and fasten off.

CRAZY DAISY SHELL

Shown here and on page 13

SIZES: Directions are for size 8. Changes for sizes 10-12, 14-16 and 18-20 are in parentheses.

MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. Sport Yarn, 2 oz. pull skein, 5 (6-7-8) Ecru (A) and 2 (2-3-3) Burnt Orange (B). HERO No. 1 steel crochet hook and tapestry needle.

GAUGE: Two connected daisies—4″.

TO MAKE DAISIES: See page 3 for directions for making daisies. Make petals in A and sew centers with B. Wind A twice around each spoke. Make 144 (165-198-219) daisies.

TO CONNECT DAISIES: See page 4 for JOINING B. Work rnd 1 of joining with B; then work rnd 2 with A. Connect 16 (18-20-22) daisies all around for body of shell. Connect 7 rnds of daisies for length to underarm.

BACK: Divide work in half allowing 8 (9-10-11) daisies for back and 8 (9-10-11) daisies for front. Leave off 1 daisy at each end for underarm, 6 (7-8-9) daisies. Connect 3 (3-4-4) rows of 6 (7-8-9) daisies for back armhole. For size 10-12, next row, connect 1 daisy, leave off next 5 daisies for neck, connect 1 daisy.

FRONT: Leave off 1 daisy at each end for underarm, 6 (7-8-9) daisies. Connect 2 (2-3-3) rows of 6 (7-8-9) daisies for front armhole. SHAPE NECK: Connect 1 daisy, leave off center 4 (5-6-7) daisies for neck, connect 1 daisy. Connect front shoulder to back.

FINISHING: Block lightly. LOWER TRIM: Attach A at seam edge, * ch 3 loosely, sc in next sp; repeat from * around (be sure work lies flat and doesn’t draw in). Next row: Working backwards (counter clockwise), ch 1, hdc in space, * ch 1, hdc in next space; repeat from * around. Join with a slip st and fasten off.

NECK TRIM: Rnd 1: Attach A yarn at shoulder, * ch 3 loosely, sc in next space; repeat from * around (see that work lies flat and doesn’t draw in). Rnd 2: * Ch 2, sc in next space; repeat from * around. Rnd 3: * Ch 1, sc in next space; repeat from * around. For sizes 10-12, work 1 or 2 more rnds as for rnd 3 to fill in neck if necessary. Next rnd: Work as for last rnd as on lower edge. Fasten off.

ARMHOLE TRIM: Attach A yarn at underarm. Rnd 1: * Ch 3, sc in next sp; repeat from * around. Rnd 2: Repeat rnd 1 (see that work takes in armhole slightly and shapes it). Next rnd: Work as for last rnd as on lower edge. Fasten off.

LONG SKIRT

Shown on pages 10 and 13

NOTE: Directions for short skirt are included in these directions.

SIZES: Directions are for Small (size 8-10). Changes for Medium (size 12-14) are in parentheses.

MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. Sport Yarn, 2 oz. pull skein, 10 (11) Hot Pink (A) and 1 skein of Purple (B). HERO No. 1 steel crochet hook and No. C aluminum crochet hook. Tapestry needle. Skirt zipper, lt. weight lining fabric and 2 hooks and eyes.

GAUGE: Two connected blocks—7″.

Note: Use No. 1 steel crochet hook to crochet around daisies and connect blocks. Use No. C aluminum crochet hook for lower border and waistband.

TO MAKE DAISIES: See directions on page 3 for making daisies. Make 108 (126) daisies with A, winding 3 times around each spoke and sewing center with double strand B.

FIRST BLOCK: Rnd 1: With wrong side of daisy facing, with A, sc in petal of daisy (go in space through the 3 loops of petal), * ch 5, yo and pull up a loop in first ch, yo pull through 2 loops and leave 2 loops on hook, yo pull up a loop in first ch (same as first st), yo pull through 2 loops, yo pull through 3 loops, sc in next petal (cluster); repeat from * around (12 clusters). Join with a sl st to first sc. Turn. Rnd 2: Ch 5, sc in back of st between next 2 clusters, * ch 4, sc in back of st between next 2 clusters; repeat from *, end ch 4, join with a sl st (12 spaces). Rnd 3: Sc in first sp, ch 5, dc in first sp (half corner), * (ch 2, 2 dc in next sp) 3 times, ch 2, 2 dc back into last sp worked in to complete corner; repeat from * twice more, end (ch 2, 2 dc in next sp) twice, ch 2, 2 dc in first sp, ch 2, join with a sl st to top of starting ch to complete other half of corner. Rnd 4: Ch 5, dc back into corner sp for a half corner, * (ch 2, 2 dc in next sp) 4 times, ch 2, 2 dc back in last sp worked in to complete corner; repeat from * twice more, end (ch 2, 2 dc in next sp) 3 times, ch 2, 2 dc in first sp, ch 2, join with a sl st to top of starting ch to complete corner. Rnd 5: * (Ch 3, sc in next sp) 5 times, ch 6, sc back into last sp worked for picot; repeat from *, end ch 6, sc back into last sp worked (4th picot). Join with a sl st and fasten off. Crochet around the 107 (125) remaining daisies in the same manner as for first block.

TO JOIN BLOCKS: Working with two blocks and holding them back to back, leave picots free, sc in first ch-3 sp after a picot on block 1, ch 3, sc in first ch-3 sp after a picot on block 2, * ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 1, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 2 (corresponding ch-3 sp to ch-3 sp worked on block 1); repeat from * along this side edge to within the picots. Fasten off securely leaving picots from block 1 and 2 free.

TO JOIN BLOCK 3: Block 3 is joined to another side of block 1. Hold block 3 back to back to block 1. Leave picots free, sc in first ch-3 sp after picot on block 3, ch 3, sc in first ch-3 sp on block 1, * ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 3, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 1 (corresponding ch-3 sp to ch-3 sp worked on block 3); repeat from * along this side edge to within the picots. Fasten off securely leaving picots free.

TO JOIN BLOCK 4: Block 4 is joined to one side of block 3 and one side of block 2. Leave picots free and holding block 4 back to back to block 3, sc in first ch-3 sp after picot on block 4, ch 3, sc in first ch-3 sp on block 3; * ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 4, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 3; repeat from * along this edge to within picots. Fasten off securely leaving picots free. Sc in first ch-3 sp after picot on block 4, ch 3, sc in first ch-3 sp after picot on block 2, * ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 4, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp on block 2; repeat from * along this edge to within picots. Fasten off securely leaving picots free. At intersection where 4 picots meet from block 1, 2, 3 and 4, join the 4 picots at center using a tapestry needle and B yarn with a secure st (4 picots joined at center form a 4 leaf clover effect). Fasten yarn securely.

Join 7 rows of 12 (14) blocks around. Join 2 more rows leaving an opening on one side for zipper. Finished skirt with lower band and waistband is about 37″ in length (there is an allowance for 1″ stretch).

LOWER BORDER: Rnd 1: With No. C hook, attach yarn and sc in a ch-3 sp. Working backwards (counter clockwise), * ch 1, hdc in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * around (see that work lies flat). Rnd 2: Continue to work backwards (counter clockwise), * ch 1, hdc under ch 1 of previous rnd. Repeat rnd 2 until border is 2″ or desired size. Fasten off.

WAISTBAND: With No. C hook, work 2 rows of sc around waistline, taking it in to measure 25″ (26½″) or desired waist size. Row 1: Working backwards (counter clockwise), ch 1, hdc in next st, * ch 1, skip 1, hdc in next st; repeat from * across, end hdc, ch 1 on turn. Row 2: Hdc in first sp under ch-1 of previous row (continue to work backwards—counter clockwise), * ch 1, hdc under next ch-1 of previous row; repeat from *, end hdc in last ch-1 sp, ch 1 to turn. Repeat row 2 until waistband is 2″. Fasten off.

FINISHING: With No. 1 hook, work 1 row of sl st and 1 row of sc around zipper opening. Block skirt lightly. Cut lining and sew tog. Stitch lining to first row of waistband, gathering it in to size of waistband and leaving lower edge free. Face waistband with a double strip of lining, leaving a 1½″ extension from back edge for closing tab. Sew in zipper. Sew on 2 hooks and eyes for closing.

SHORT SKIRT

MATERIALS: 8 (9) skeins color A and 1 skein color B. Work 72 (84) blocks as for long skirt. Join blocks as for long skirt. Join 4 rows of 12 (14) blocks around; then join 2 rows of 12 (14) blocks leaving 1 side open for zipper. Finish as for long skirt, working a 1″ border at lower edge. This will be about a 24″ length skirt. Adjust length by working a shorter or longer lower border and waistband.

MOTHER AND DAUGHTER DRESS

Shown on page 12

SIZES: MOTHER: Directions are for Small (size 10-12). Changes for Medium (size 14-16) are in parentheses.

DAUGHTER: Directions are for Small (size 6-8). Changes for Medium (size 10-12) are in parentheses.

MATERIALS: MOTHER: 4 Ply Knitting Worsted, 4 oz. skein, 6 (8) Green (A) and 2 ozs. of Pink (B) for trim. DAUGHTER: 4 Ply Knitting Worsted, 4 oz. skein, 3 (4) Pink (B), 2 ozs. of Green (A) for trim. HERO No. 17 knitting needles, OR SIZE REQUIRED TO OBTAIN THE GIVEN STITCH GAUGE. HERO Crazy Daisy Winder and No. 0 steel crochet hook. Tapestry needle. 14 Button molds for mother and 9 button molds for daughter.

GAUGE: 3 strands on No. 17 needles: 5 sts—2″.

MOTHER

PATTERN No. 1: Row 1: * k 3; p 1; repeat from * across. Row 2: * k 1, p 3; repeat from * across. Row 3: K 2, * p 1, k 3; repeat from *, end p 1, k 1. Row 4: P 1, * k 1, p 3; repeat from *, end k 1, p 2. Row 5; K 1, * p 1, k 3; repeat from *, end k 2. Row 6: P 2, * k 1, p 3; repeat from *, end k 1, p 1. Row 7: * P 1, k 3; repeat from * across. Row 8: * P 3, k 1; repeat from * across. Repeat these 8 rows for pattern 1.

PATTERN No. 2: Row 1: * P 1, k 3; repeat from * across. Row 2: * P 3, k 1; repeat from * across. Row 3: K 1, * p 1, k 3; repeat from *, end p 1, k 2. Row 4: P 2, * k 1, p 3; repeat from *, end k 1, p 1. Row 5: K 2, * p 1, k 3; repeat from *, end p 1, k 1. Row 6: P 1, * k 1, p 3; repeat from *, end k 1, p 2. Row 7: * K 3, p 1; repeat from * across. Row 8: * K 1, p 3; repeat from * across. Repeat these 8 rows for pattern 2. Note: Use 3 strands of yarn tog unless otherwise specified.

BACK: With 3 strands A and No. 17 needles, cast on 48 (56) sts. Work first 24 (28) sts in pattern 1, place a marker on needle, work next 24 (28) sts in pattern 2. Work even as established for 18″ from beg. Dress is planned for 29″ length to underarm. Any changes in length should be made before the first dec row. Dec 1 st each end of next row; then every 3″ (2½″) for 2 (3) times more, 42 (48) sts. Work even until 29″ from beg or desired length to underarm. SHAPE ARMHOLES: Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st each end every other row twice, 34 (40) sts. BACK OPENING: Work 17 (20) sts and place on a holder, work on remaining 17 (20) sts. Work even in pattern as established until armhole is 6¾″ (7¼″). SHAPE SHOULDER: At arm edge, bind off 5 sts once; then 4 (5) sts once, 8 (10) sts. Bind off remaining sts loosely. Attach 3 strands at center opening and work other side to correspond.

FRONT: Work same as for back until completion of armhole shaping, 34 (40) sts. Work even until armholes are 5″ (5½″). SHAPE NECK: Work 11 (13) sts and place on a holder, bind off center 12 (14) sts loosely, work 11 (13) sts. At neck edge, dec 1 st every other row 2 (3) times. Work even to shoulder shaping as for back. SHAPE SHOULDER: At arm edge, bind off 5 sts once; then 4 (5) sts. Attach 3 strands of yarn at neck edge and work other side to correspond.

FINISHING: Make 14 daisies on the Crazy Daisy Winder in B as follows: With left thumb hold yarn at center allowing end to extend 1″. With right hand pass yarn from left to right around spokes No. 1 and No. 2, across center from right to left around No. 7 and No. 8; repeat last wind twice more; across center and pass yarn from left to right around spokes No. 2 and No. 3, across center from right to left around No. 8 and No. 9; repeat last wind twice more; across center from left to right around spokes No. 3 and No. 4, across center from right to left around No. 9 and No. 10; repeat last wind twice more; across center and pass yarn from left to right around spokes No. 4 and No. 5, across center from right to left around No. 10 and No. 11; repeat this last wind twice more, across center from left to right around spokes No. 5 and No. 6, across center from right to left around No. 11 and No. 12; repeat last wind twice more; across center from left to right around spokes No. 6 and No. 7, across center from right to left around No. 12 and No. 1; repeat this last wind twice more. Bring yarn to 1″ beyond center and cut. Do not remove.

CENTER: Note that there is a hole in center after all winds are completed. Keep left thumb in center to keep the hole in center as you sew the center. Thread tapestry needle with B. Insert tapestry needle in space between 2 petals working from outside to center hole (leave a small end for fastening) and draw through, go back into same space and draw needle from outside edge to inside to fasten; * insert needle in next space between petals from center edge to outside edge, wind yarn around the tapestry needle from left to right as to make a buttonhole st, draw through and tighten; repeat from * until all petals are secured (secure loose ends in as you are sewing around). Fasten off securely. Remove from winder.

BUTTONS: Make 14. With single strand A, ch 3, join with a sl st to form a ring. Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring. Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc. Rnd 3: 1 sc in each sc. Rnd 4: Insert mold. * Skip 1 sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * until completely closed over mold. Fasten off. Sew shoulder and side seams with single strand. With double strand A, work 1 row of slip st around neck edge. Next row: Working backwards (counter clockwise), ch 1, * sc in next st; repeat from * around neck. Fasten off. Work trim around armhole edges as for neck. With double strand A, work 1 row of slip st around back opening. Tack daisies along center of front edge and around neck as shown (on neck place one at top of back opening so button can be used for closing). Sew a button in center of each daisy as shown.

DAUGHTER

BACK: With 3 strands B and No. 17 needles, cast on 40 (48) sts. Work first 20 (24) sts in pattern 1, place a marker on needle, work next 20 (24) sts in pattern 2. Work even 12″ from beg. Dress is planned for 15½″ (17″) from beg to underarm. Any changes in length should be made before first dec. Dec 1 st each end of next row; then every 2″ (1½″) 1 (2) times more, 36 (42) sts. Work even until 15½″ (17″) from beg or desired length to underarm. SHAPE ARMHOLES: Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st each end every other row twice, 28 (34) sts. BACK OPENING: Work 14 (17) sts and place on a holder; then work across remaining 14 (17) sts. Work even until armhole is 5¼″ (5¾″). SHAPE SHOULDER: At arm edge, bind off 4 sts once, 3 (4) sts once, 7 (9) sts. Bind off remaining sts loosely. Attach 3 strands at center opening and work other side to correspond.

FRONT: Work same as back until completion of armhole shaping, 28 (34) sts. Work even until armhole is 4″ (4¼″). SHAPE NECK. Work 9 (11) sts and place sts on a holder, bind off center 10 (12) sts, loosely, work across the remaining 9 (11) sts. At neck edge, dec 1 st every other row twice. For medium size only, dec 1 st at neck edge every row once, 7 (8) sts. Work even to shoulder shaping as on back. SHAPE SHOULDER: At arm edge, bind off 4 sts once, 3 (4) sts once. Attach 3 strands at neck edge and work other side to correspond.

FINISHING: Make 9 daisies and 9 buttons using color A for daisies and color B for buttons. See instructions as given for Mother’s dress. Crochet neck, armholes and back opening with B as explained for Mother’s dress.

Dimensional Daisy Pillow

Shown on page 16

MATERIALS: HERO Crazy Daisy Winder. 4 Ply Knitting Worsted, 4 oz. Skein, 2 Loden Green (A), 1 Orange (B) and 1 Maize (C). HERO No. F aluminum crochet hook. Yarn darning needle. Pillow to fit.

TO MAKE DAISIES: Follow directions for making daisies on page 3. Make 40 daisies, winding twice around each spoke with C and then winding around same spokes twice with B (4 winds on each spoke). Sew centers with A.

TO JOIN DAISIES: Follow directions for JOINING B (see page 4), only picking up the B petals and leaving the C petals free. Work rnd 1 of joining with C and rnd 2 with B. Connect 2 pieces of 4 rows of 4 daisies across.

FRONT PIECE: Rnd 1: Attach A at a corner, ch 4, dc back in corner sp (half corner), # * ch 1, 2 dc in next sp; repeat from * 14 times more (this should bring you along one side edge to next corner—see that work lies flat), ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc all in next corner sp #; repeat between #’s ending with 15 patterns along 4th side, ch 1, 2 dc in starting corner sp, ch 1 and join with a sl st to top of starting ch to complete corner. Rnd 2: Ch 4, dc in sp of corner (half corner), # * ch 1, 2 dc in next sp; repeat from * to corner, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc all in corner sp #; repeat between #’s around, end ch 1, 2 dc in first corner sp, ch 1, join with a sl st to top of starting ch. Repeat rnd 2 four times more or until you attain the desired size. Fasten off.

BACK: Work to correspond to front piece.