Part 4

The caves being of volcanic origin, lava stalactites are in evidence in some of them. Ice formations, the result of constantly freezing temperatures and presence of moisture, are found in others. Over 300 caves have been located in the monument, but of this number only 130 have been explored. A small number of the more interesting caves are open to the public. In exploring these caverns, visitors are given the services of guides without cost during the summer months.

Two types of symbolic Indian writings add a touch of mystery to the monument, suggesting the presence of ancient aborigines many centuries ago. One type is made up of paintings (pictographs) on the walls of a number of the caves and sides of natural bridges. The other type is composed of carvings (petroglyphs) confined entirely to rocky bluffs where the material was sufficiently soft to be cut out by stone tools. The petroglyphs, located in an isolated portion of the monument, are deeply carved and have successfully withstood the ravages of time.

Historical features of the monument recall the only major Indian war ever fought on California soil and one of the most costly of its kind in United States history. In 1872-73 a small band of Modoc Indians under the leadership of Keintpoos, commonly known as Captain Jack, clashed with a body of United States cavalry just north of the California line following a rampage during which several settlers were killed. A short time later, the Modocs established themselves in a natural lava fortress in the northern part of the monument where they withstood a superior force of soldiers for 5 months.

During this time several peace negotiations were attempted, reaching their climax in an ill-fated peace parley a short distance from the Indian stronghold. A number of Indians, including Captain Jack, gathered with a peace commission, headed by General R. E. S. Canby, commander of the besieging soldiers. During the truce parley, the Indians without warning killed General Canby and one other member of the commission, after which the Modocs fled to their stronghold. A cross, erected by Canby’s soldiers on the spot, still stands.

It was not long after the killings that the Indians were subdued, marking the end of Indian warfare in this section. The stronghold today is much as it was over 60 years ago. Points of interest are plainly marked; bleaching bones and rotting bits of leather are reminiscent of the last stand of the Modocs.

Interesting to monument visitors also is the presence of wildlife. During winter and spring seasons, mule deer can be seen in large numbers, with 20 to 30 individual herds remaining in the area until the arrival of warmer summer weather. Hundreds of birds are observed, particularly valley quail and an abundance of raptores. Large numbers of small mammals are seen throughout the year. Lava Reds bighorn formerly roamed the monument but were exterminated by unrestricted hunting and competition for the range by sheep and cattle 20 years ago. However, their trails are still visible.

Administrative headquarters of the monument are maintained at Indian Well, where a park ranger is in charge. A small museum of old war relics and volcanic specimens is maintained here. A campground is nearby. No gasoline, food, or other accommodations are available in the monument but these can be procured within 20 miles of the area at Merrill, Oreg. or Tide Lake, Calif.

NATIONAL PARKS IN BRIEF

ABRAHAM LINCOLN, KY.—Birthplace of Abraham Lincoln. Established 1916; 0.17 square mile. ACADIA, MAINE.—Combination of mountain and seacoast scenery. Established 1919; 24.91 square miles. BRYCE CANYON, UTAH.—Canyons filled with exquisitely colored pinnacles. Established 1928; 56.23 square miles. CARLSBAD CAVERNS, N. MEX.—Beautifully decorated limestone caverns. Established 1930; 15.75 square miles. CRATER LAKE, OREG.—Beautiful lake in crater of extinct volcano. Established 1902; 250.52 square miles. FORT McHENRY, MD.—Its defense in 1814 inspired writing of Star-Spangled Banner. Established 1925; 0.07 square mile. GENERAL GRANT, CALIF.—General Grant Tree and grove of Big Trees. Established 1890; 3.98 square miles. GLACIER, MONT.—Unsurpassed alpine scenery; 200 lakes: 60 glaciers. Established 1910; 1,537.98 square miles. GRAND CANYON, ARIZ.—World’s greatest example of erosion. Established 1919; 1,008 square miles. GRAND TETON, WYO.—Most spectacular portion of Teton Mountains. Established 1929; 150 square miles. GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS, N.C.-TENN.—Massive mountain uplift; magnificent forests. Established for protection 1930; 643.26 square miles. HAWAII, ISLANDS OF HAWAII AND MAUI.—Interesting volcanic areas. Established 1916; 248.54 square miles. HOT SPRINGS, ARK.—Forty-seven hot springs reserved by the Federal Government in 1832 to prevent exploitation of waters. Made national park in 1921; 1.54 square miles. LASSEN VOLCANIC, CALIF.—Only recently active volcano in United States proper. Established 1916; 163.32 square miles. MAMMOTH CAVE, KY.—Interesting caverns, including spectacular onyx cave formation. Established for protection 1936; 54.09 square miles. MESA VERDE, COLO.—Most notable cliff dwellings in United States. Established 1906; 80.21 square miles. MOUNT McKINLEY, ALASKA.—Highest mountain in North America. Established 1917; 3,030.46 square miles. MOUNT RAINIER, WASH.—Largest accessible single-peak glacier system. Established 1899; 377.78 square miles. PLATT, OKLA.—Sulphur and other springs. Established 1902; 1.32 square miles. ROCKY MOUNTAIN, COLO.—Peaks from 11,000 to 14,255 feet in heart of Rockies. Established 1915; 405.33 square miles. SEQUOIA, CALIF.—General Sherman, largest and possibly oldest tree in world; outstanding groves of Sequoiagi gigantea. Established 1890; 604 square miles. SHENANDOAH, VA.—Outstanding scenic area in Blue Ridge. Established 1935; 282.14 square miles. WIND CAVE, S. DAK.—Beautiful cavern of peculiar formations. No stalactites or stalagmites. Established 1903; 19.75 square miles. YELLOWSTONE, WYO.-MONT.-IDAHO.—World’s greatest geyser area and an outstanding game preserve. Established 1872; 3,437.88 square miles. YOSEMITE, CALIF.—Valley of world-famous beauty; spectacular waterfalls; magnificent High Sierra country. Established 1890; 1,176.16 square miles. ZION, UTAH.—Zion Canyon, 1,500 to 2,500 feet deep. Spectacular coloring. Established 1919; 134.91 square miles.

NOTE

GEORGE WASHINGTON MEMORIAL, BLUE RIDGE, AND NATCHEZ TRACE PARKWAY PROJECTS NOT SHOWN BECAUSE OF SPACE LIMITATION

November 1, 1937

Transcriber’s Notes

—Silently corrected a few typos.

—This eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.

End of Project Gutenberg's Crater Lake National Park, Oregon, by Anonymous