Crater Lake National Park, Oregon (1938)
Part 3
En route from Medford, motorists travel through great forest areas, along the banks of rushing streams, along the edges of picturesque canyons, and through attractive mountain country. Of particular interest is the Rogue River, well known for its steelhead and cutthroat trout and salmon fishing.
Motorists entering the park by way of Medford often leave by way of the south entrance to Klamath Falls, 62 miles, or arrive that way and leave over the Medford route. On this trip motorists pass along the Annie Creek Canyon, through the Klamath Indian Reservation, and along the edge of upper Klamath Lake, the largest inland body of water west of the Rocky Mountains.
Through the use of powerful snow plows Crater Lake National Park has been made accessible throughout the year over the Klamath and Medford approach roads. This is possible through the cooperation of the State highway commission. Even during midwinter, when snow attains a depth of 12 to 15 feet on the level, motorists can drive to the very rim of the lake.
Park highways are now continuously open, barring the exception of excessively heavy storms; however the north and east entrances are open only from spring until late fall.
BY AIRPLANE
High-speed, de luxe airplane service from all points in the United States to Medford is now available through the United Air Lines, which operates direct service to 19 States. For persons of limited time this service affords a splendid opportunity to see the park. For example, passengers may leave Los Angeles after breakfast, land at Medford, take a bus for the 80-mile drive to the park, and arrive in the afternoon. Leaving New York at noon, one may arrive in Medford in time for breakfast the next morning and drive to the park before lunch.
BY MOTOR COACH
Pacific Greyhound Lines, covering the United States, operate super highway motor coaches through Medford and Klamath Falls where connections are made with Crater Lake stages during the travel season. The Mount Hood Stages operate daily coach service from Boise, Idaho, The Dalles, Oreg., and Portland, Oreg., over The Dalles-California Highway to Fort Klamath and Klamath tails.
ADMINISTRATION
The park is administered by the National Park Service of the Department of the Interior, with a superintendent, E. P. Leavitt, in immediate charge. A force of rangers and ranger-naturalists assists this official.
Also under the jurisdiction of Crater Lake National Park administrative offices are the Oregon Caves National Monument, 50 miles from Grants Pass in southern Oregon, and the Lava Beds National Monument in northern California, 45 miles south of Klamath Falls, Oreg. Both of these areas are popular attractions for visitors.
At Crater Lake long-distance telephone and telegraph services are available at the lodge, at park headquarters, and at various ranger stations. At Oregon Caves such services are available at the Chateau, and at the Lava Beds telephone service is available at Indian Well, monument headquarters.
RIM VILLAGE
A large majority of visitors first reach the rim of the lake at the Rim Village. This is the focal point of park activities. Here are the lodge, post office, cafeteria, general store, Sinnott Memorial, a rental cabin group, auto service, emergency mechanical service, and information bureau. From the Rim Village a number of the most important trails in the park take off, including the spectacular trail down the crater wall to the lake shore, where launches and rowboats are available for pleasure trips and fishing excursions. This fine trail is 6 foot wide and on a holding grade of 12 percent, permitting use by people unaccustomed to much physical effort. Its length of 1½ miles can be covered on the down trip in 30 minutes, while the return trip requires approximately 45 minutes. The trail to the summit of Garfield Peak, directly overlooking the lake and giving a magnificent panorama of the Cascades, takes off from the Rim Village, as does a 4-mile trail to The Watchman, a trail to Annie Spring, and to park headquarters.
CAMPING
There are four campgrounds within Crater Lake National Park, all of them free to the public.
The Rim Campground is located in close proximity to the rim at the terminus of the highway. The camp is on a slight elevation in the shelter of a fine stand of mountain hemlock, reminding the visitor that the altitude is over 7,000 feet. Eagle Crags, the jagged pinnacles of Garfield Peak, and Castle Crest tower above to the east. The designation of camp sites by logs, with a table, stove, and fireplace at each site, makes camping possible in a natural setting without detracting from the general beauty. Firewood is available at the camp. The water is pure, and there are sanitary conveniences, including hot water and hot and cold showers. The popularity of this campground has increased to such an extent that it has become necessary to limit camping to 30 days in this area.
Located near the Rim Campground is the community house, with its great stone fireplace, where campers and visitors gather at night for recreation. It is open at all times for the pleasure and convenience of the public. Programs of an entertaining and instructive character are provided here every evening during the summer season.
The post office is at the lodge, and mail addressed to Crater Lake will reach its destination during the park season. Rental cabins may be secured at the housekeeping-accommodation office. A cafeteria and general store are maintained convenient to the camp.
The lower campground is situated near the Annie Spring checking station, on the highway 7 miles south of the Rim Camp. This is a beautiful well-sheltered, shaded site, and at a considerably lower altitude than the grounds near the rim. The camp has modern sanitation, with running water and wood available.
A camping place is located at Lost Creek, 3½ miles inside the east entrance of the park, at the junction of the highway entering the park and the Rim Road, not far from Wheeler Creek. These campgrounds are located 11 miles from the Rim Village, the road skirting the great heights south of the lake, and 2½ miles from Kerr Notch, offering a spectacular view of Crater Lake from the east rim.
For those visitors coming to the park by the south entrance there is Cold Spring Camp, 3 miles south of the Annie Spring checking station, 7 miles north of the entrance, and 9 miles from the lake rim. The camp is near the scenic Annie Creek Canyon, and is one of the earliest regular camping places used by explorers of the Crater Lake region. Godfrey’s Glen, with its colonnades and beautiful scenery, is located deep in the mysterious canyon not far from Cold Spring.
ACCOMMODATIONS AND EXPENSES
The Crater Lake National Park Co. offers all pay accommodations for visitors in the park. Rooms may be obtained at the Crater Lake Lodge, a large hotel on the rim of the lake, under American and European plans. Under the latter plan rates range from $3 for two in a room to $5.50 for one person. Twin beds, with bath, on the European plan are available at $7.50 for two persons; the American plan is $3 per person higher. Children under 8 years receive half rates. Housekeeping cabins in the Rim Village rent for $2 per night, without bedding, and $2.75 with bedding. A large stone building, containing the cafeteria, store, novelties, pictures, and photographic supplies, is nearby.
_Motor transportation._—Daily automobile service from Medford and Klamath Falls to Crater Lake Lodge is maintained by the Crater Lake National Park Co. from July 1 to September 20. The round-trip cost is $8 per person and only round-trip tickets are sold. A visitor may enter by way of Medford and leave by way of Klamath Falls. The trip requires 2½ hours from the latter place and 3 hours from the former.
_Launches and rowboats._—Rowboats may be hired for 50 cents per hour for one person and 25 cents for each additional person. Regularly scheduled trips are made daily by launch to the Phantom Ship and Wizard Island, about 15 miles, at a cost of $2 per person. Hourly trips are made to Wizard Island for $1 per person. Fishing tackle may be rented at the boat landing.
One of the popular attractions is a launch trip around the lake, leaving the boat landing at 9 o’clock each morning during the travel season. A ranger-naturalist describes to the launch passengers the points of geologic and historical interest. The trip has been carefully planned and is available at the cost of $2 per person.
This booklet is issued once a year and _the rates mentioned herein may have changed slightly since issuance_, but the latest rates approved by the Secretary of the Interior are on file with the superintendent and park operator.
REFERENCES
Albright, Horace M., and Taylor, Frank J. Oh, Ranger! A book about the national parks. Illustrated. Diller, J. S. Geological History of Crater Lake. An account of the formation of Crater Lake. Diller, J. S., and Patton, H. B. Geology and Petrography of Crater Lake National Park. Professional Paper No. 3, U. S. Geological Survey. 1902. 167 pp. Eaton, Walter Prichard: Sky-line camps. 1922. 268 pp., illustrated. A record of wanderings in the northwestern mountains, from the Rockies in Glacier National Park to Crater Lake National Park, and to the Cascades in Washington and Oregon. Boy Scouts at Crater Lake. 1922. 320 pp., illustrated. A story of Crater Lake National Park in the high Cascades. Kane, J. F. Picturesque America. 1935. 256 pp., illustrated. Published by Frederick Gumbrecht, Brooklyn, N. Y. Crater Lake on pp. 27-29. Kelley, Edgemond, and Chick. Three Scout Naturalists in the National Parks. A book by three Eagle Scouts who made a 12,000-mile field trip through the western national parks. Brewer, Warren & Putnam, 1931. Lapham, Stanton C. The souvenir book, The Enchanted Lake. Mazama, The. Bulletin published by the “Mazamas.” (Mountaineering Club), of Portland, Oreg. McArthur, Lewis A. Oregon Geographic Names. 450 pp., illustrated, map. Koke-Chapman Co., Eugene, Oreg. 1928. Mills, Enos A. Your National Parks. 532 pp., illustrated. 1917. Crater Lake on pp. 137-147; 470-474. Pernot, J. F. Forests of Crater Lake National Park. 40 pp., 26 illustrations. Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C. 20 cents. Rolfe, Mary A. Our National Parks, Book Two. A supplementary reader on the national parks for fifth- and sixth-grade students. Benj. H. Sanborn & Co., Chicago. 1928. Crater Lake on pp. 109-118. Russell, I. C.: Lakes of North America. 1895. 125 pp. Crater Lake on pp. 20-21. Volcanoes of North America. 1897. 346 pp. Crater Lake on pp. 235-236. Steel, W. G. The Mountains of Oregon. 1890. 112 pp. Crater Lake on pp. 12-33. Victor, Frances Fuller. Atlantic Arisen. 1891. 412 pp. Crater Lake on pp. 179-183. Wilbur, Ray Lyman, and Du Puy, William Atherton. Conservation in the Department of the Interior. Chapter on national parks, pp. 96-112. Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C. 1931. Price $1. Yard, Robert Sterling: The Top of the Continent. 1917. 244 pp., illustrated. Crater Lake on pp. 140-160. The Book of the National Parks. 1926. 440 pp., 74 illustrations, 14 maps and diagrams. Crater Lake on pp. 184-201. Panoramic View of Crater Lake National Park. 16½ by 18 inches; scale, 1 mile to the inch, Gives excellent idea of configuration of surface as seen from the air. Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C. 25 cents. Map of Crater Lake National Park. About 14 by 19 inches; scale, 1 mile to inch. United States Geological Survey, Washington, D. C. 10 cents.
RULES AND REGULATIONS [Briefed]
The Park Regulations are designed for the protection of the natural features and scenery as well as for the comfort and convenience of visitors. The following synopsis is for the general guidance of visitors, who are requested to assist the administration by observing the rules. Full regulations may be seen at the office of the superintendent and ranger station.
_Fires._—Light carefully and only in designated campgrounds. Extinguish completely before leaving camp, even for temporary absence. Do not guess your fire is out—know it.
_Camps._—Use designated campgrounds. Keep the campgrounds clean. Combustible rubbish shall be burned on camp fires, and all other garbage and refuse of all kinds shall be placed in garbage cans or pits provided for the purpose. Firewood is provided free of charge. Camping is restricted to 30 days.
_Trash._—Do not throw paper, lunch refuse, film cartons, chewing-gum paper, or other trash over the rim, on walks, trails, roads, or elsewhere. Carry until you can burn in camp or place in receptacle.
_Trees, Flowers, and Animals._—The destruction, injury, or disturbance in any way of the trees, flowers, birds, or animals is prohibited.
_Noises._—Be quiet in camp after others have gone to bed. Many people come here for rest.
_Automobiles._—Careful driving is required at all times for protection of yourself and other visitors. Your car must be equipped with good brakes, horn, and lights. Passing on curves is prohibited. Obey traffic rules. A gasoline and oil station is maintained on the main highway at park headquarters. Gasoline and oil may also be secured at the Rim Village. No other gasoline stations are available in the park. The fee for automobile permit is $1.
_Dogs._—Dogs are prohibited in the park overnight and are not permitted in the rim concentration area. When not in an automobile, dogs must be on a leash at all times.
_Warning About Bears._—Do not feed the bears from the hand; they will not harm you if not fed at close range. Bears will enter or break into automobiles if food that they can smell is left inside. They will also rob your camp of unprotected food supplies.
_Fishing._—A limit of 12 fish per person per day has been set for lake angling. A catch of 20 fish is permitted in park streams. No fishing license is necessary.
_Park Rangers._—The rangers are here to help and advise you. When in doubt ask a ranger. Rangers at the Information Bureau, park headquarters, and the several stations will be glad to help you plan your activity while in Crater Lake and to explain the regulations.
Complete rules and regulations are available at park headquarters.
EVENTS OF HISTORICAL IMPORTANCE
1853—John Wesley Hillman and a group of prospectors discovered the lake and named it Deep Blue Lake. 1862—Chauncey Nye and party of prospectors, unaware of the previous discovery, accidentally visited the lake. 1865—Soldiers from Fort Klamath, without knowledge of previous discoveries, visited the lake and named it Lake Majesty. 1869—Jim Sutton, accompanied by David Linn and family, of Jacksonville, visited the lake and named it Crater Lake. 1873—First photograph, a daguerreotype, taken of Crater Lake by Peter Britt, southern Oregon pioneer. 1883—J. S. Diller, geologist, and Everett Hayden, of the United States Geological Survey, visited the lake. 1885—William Gladstone Steel, with Prof. Joseph Le Conte, Capt. Clarence E. Dutton, J. M. Brock, Jr., and others, visited Crater Lake. Mr. Steel suggested that a national park be established and a petition was sent to President Cleveland. 1886—The President issued a proclamation withdrawing 10 townships, including Crater Lake. Lake surveyed and sounded by the United States Geological Survey. 1888—First fish planted in Crater Lake by William Gladstone Steel. 1896—Mazamas visited Crater Lake and christened the ancestral mountain, of which only the caldera and lower slopes remain, Mount Mazama. 1902—Crater Lake National Park, created by congressional action, approved by President Theodore Roosevelt. First superintendent, W. F. Arant, appointed. 1907—First automobile driven to the rim of Crater Lake by Charles True, from Medford, Oreg. The _Wocus_, the first boat used in rendering a launch service to visitors, placed on the lake. 1912—Crater Lake Lodge, the oldest structure now existing in the rim area, was built. 1927—Crater Lake Ski Club organized. First annual ski races held. 1931—Sinnott Memorial completed and dedicated. 1932—The Watchman Observation Station completed. 1935—Park approach roads and highway to rim open for first time throughout winter.
OREGON CAVES NATIONAL MONUMENT
Located 160 miles southwest of Crater Lake, the Oregon Caves National Monument in Josephine County, administered by the superintendent and staff of the Crater Lake National Park, is one of the most popular scenic attractions of Oregon. The caves, occurring at an elevation of 4,000 feet in the heart of the Siskiyou Mountains, are easily reached over hard-surfaced highways.
The monument is 20 miles distant from the famous Redwood Highway, between Crescent City, Calif., and Grants Pass, Oreg. Motorists to the monument turn off at Caves Junction, a small settlement at the junction of the Redwood and Caves Highways.
The caverns, also known as the “Marble Halls of Oregon,” were discovered by a pioneer bear hunter, Elijah Davidson, in 1874 when a bruin sought refuge in their darkness. Davidson, intent on a kill, followed close behind, aided by a flickering pitch torch. He made a cursory exploration, followed by others in later years, but he never viewed the many wonders of their interior as seen today by the visiting public. There are several miles of winding passageways, large rooms, and scores of fantastic formations weird in their eerie beauty.
The monument, covering 480 acres, was established by proclamation of President Taft on July 12, 1909. During recent years numerous improvements, such as new trails, steel ladders, illumination, and removal of obstructions, have been completed to make the caves more accessible and visits more enjoyable.
A limestone, long ago altered to marble, is the soluble rock in which the passageways were formed. The caves offer outstanding underground beauty along a route which brings visitors past their most attractive formations, the result of constant water action for many thousands of years. These formations assume odd, grotesque, and fantastic shapes, resembling draperies, flowers, fruits, palaces, and gargoyles.
The rocks of the region are complexly folded, faulted, and metamorphosed shales, sandstones, and minor bodies of limestone, intruded by vast amounts of basic igneous rock, most of which is now serpentine. The whole is crushed and squeezed into intricate and apparently hopeless confusion from the structural and stratigraphic viewpoint.
Here and there in sparkling beauty are exquisite miniatures of Niagaras, Gardens of Eden, cotton blossoms, forests, and castles. A number of the unusual features carry such strange names as Music Room, River Styx, Ghost Room, Dante’s Inferno, Paradise Lost, and Joaquin Miller’s Chapel. Paradise Lost is the most beautiful exhibit of the caves with its flowerlike stalactitic pendants adorning the walls of a room 60 feet high.
Countless stalagmites and stalactites telling the story of the patience of the ages are seen by visitors during the 2-hour guided trips through the caves. Especially is this true of one of the columns, which is a foot in diameter and was formed by the joining of a stalagmite and stalactite.
Monument visitors are offered hotel accommodations at the Oregon Caves Chateau near the cave’s entrance. Lodging and dining-room service is provided. From the floor of a canyon, the bark-covered six stories of the chateau attain complete harmony with the thick forests and moss-covered rock ledges of the surrounding country.
Cottages are available at the caves, as well as a store where novelties and pictures can be procured. Picnic grounds are maintained in the monument.
During the summer months from June 15 to September 1, frequent guided trips are offered. Guide service on more flexible schedules is available throughout the year. This service is furnished by the operator.
During the summer season, evening campfire programs are offered in the open air near the chateau, presenting talent from the Oregon colleges employed in the monument. Park rangers give short talks on the monument in conjunction with the musical programs.
LAVA BEDS NATIONAL MONUMENT
Located in northern California, 105 miles south of Crater Lake, the Lava Beds National Monument, administered by the Crater Lake National Park staff since 1933, covers an area of 45,967 acres, noteworthy for volcanic, historical, and archeological features of distinctive importance.
The monument is usually open to travel the entire year, although winter storms are liable to make dirt roads in and approaching the area difficult to travel. The Lava Beds are 70 miles from Alturas, Calif., and 45 miles from Klamath Falls, Oreg., with the last few miles of each route served by passable dirt roads. It can also be reached over unimproved roads from Bieber, Calif., on the Redding-Alturas Highway, and Bartle via Medicine Lake.
A vast field for geologic study is included in this area where at intervals over a period of thousands of years volcanic activity seethed in lava rivers issuing forth from fissures scattered over the entire section. Geologically, the region is considered young, the age of the last lava flows and the last cinder cones being estimated at 500 years or slightly less.
Viewed from a distance, the monument appears as a fairly level terrain, with a northeasterly slope interspersed with symmetrical cinder cones. The lava rocks of the area are so porous and broken with shrinkage cracks that water from scant rainfall passes immediately underground, hence causing no erosion and leaving the monument features in the same condition as they were when first constructed. While volcanic activity has continued until modern times, the oldest formations are believed to date back some 20,000 to 60,000 years.
Except in the southern third of the monument where cindery pumice covers the surface, the visitor walks on solid lava. The small recent flows of billowy lava, or the pahoehoe type, have spread out like thick molasses or tar. It is in this type of lava that the caves and tunnels of the monument are found. These were formed by the hardening of the surface and sides of lava flows, becoming tubes when the molten lava core drained out. They range from a few feet to several miles in length and from 10 to 75 feet in height. Collapsed portions form long serpentlike trenches of broken rock 20 to 100 feet deep and from 50 to 250 feet wide, while narrow unbroken roof strips serve as natural bridges.