CHAPTER VI.
FANCY WEAVING, TAPPET AND DOBBY WORK, ANALYSIS OF CLOTH, TAPPETS, CLOTH, DOBBIES, DOBBY CLOTH, GAUZE, HANDKERCHIEF MOTION.
An important and increasingly successful department of cotton manufacturing is that comprised under the heading of fancy work. Here a great amount of skill and intelligence is necessary, and in the more complicated goods a display of talent uncalled for in the limited and well-trodden ways of plain manufacturing. In fancy weaving not only do we come across the variations of manufacturing details which present themselves in the ordinary branches, but, in addition, an infinite variety of patterns and different designs crowd upon the one side, while on the other an artistic eye is required to combat with and blend the varied groups of colours and shades in harmony and beauty.
A moment’s reflection will remind the reader of the great number of the cotton cloths which come under the heading of fancies, and for purposes of convenience we must treat of them under the headlines of three chapters--Simpler fancies, Jacquard and complicated fancies and Checks.
CLASSIFICATION OF CLOTH.
Woven fabrics of any material may be divided into four main classes:--Plain, figured, gauze and woven pile cloths; laces formed on an entirely different structure being disregarded.
Plains show no figure of any nature on the face of the cloth, have every end and pick interwoven alternately, while the warp forms a right angle with the weft. Apparent figures, ribs and stripes may be made by using fine and coarse weft or alternate counts of warp. Stripes or checks of colour may be introduced, but if the weave be unaltered the cloth still is classed as plain.
Figured is a very comprehensive group, consisting of the twills, sateens, velveteens, figured borders, figured checks, damasks, brocades, dimity, weft pile, counterpanes, fustians, cords, etc., and almost all fancy cloths, except gauze and warp pile.
Gauze has a peculiar structure, pure gauze differing from plain cloth in the ends, weaving at an angle more acute than a right angle. Leno is one kind of gauze.
Woven or warp pile cloth has a nap woven on the face and cut whilst in the loom--a class of cloth not frequently met with in cotton, but generally in the silk and carpet trades.
ANALYSIS OF PATTERNS.
For purposes of reference and communication some method of representing cloth patterns on paper is necessary, and the one generally adopted is to use point paper ruled in small squares by thin lines; bolder lines group the smaller into larger spaces, generally 8 by 8, as shown in Fig. 29. Assuming that a row of horizontal spaces (not lines) represents a pick of weft, and correspondingly a row down the paper is indicative of a warp thread, a cross or mark is made where the twist shows on the face of the cloth. Thus, Fig. 30 represents plain cloth.
Referring to Fig. 30, and following each pick across, we find that first the warp and then the weft rise, and by tracing any end we see that it floats over and under the weft alternately--this giving the well-known plain weave. Wherever the warp shows, a cross is made in that intersection. The cross is only used for convenience. When a design has to be properly shown the whole of the intersection must be filled up thus: [@]
The numbers represent the heald on which the end is drawn. The ends are lettered in their order.
Should the first end be on the first heald, the second end on the third heald, the third end on the second heald, the fourth on the fourth heald, we get a skip draft--thus:
In practice it is usual to omit the lines and just give the draft, thus:--
4 3 2 1
This is a very convenient method of representing a draft for the use of the drawer-in or the weaver, but when using point paper it is better to reserve a few picks above the design to represent as many healds and indicate on which the end is drawn by making a small circle. Thus, a honey-comb design is shown in Fig. 37, A. It can be reduced to and woven on 8 picks and 8 ends, as at B, the pattern; the draft is shown at C, the 8 ends being drawn on 5 healds. Below is shown the method of obtaining these plans--a study of which remarks will enable the reader to perform similar work for other cloths. Commencing at the first end on the left-hand side, it is placed on the first heald, H 1; looking across the pattern we find no other end working like it. Proceeding to the second end, it is placed on heald number 2, and as the eighth end works like it, it is placed on the same heald shaft. The third and seventh ends are marked for the third heald. The fourth end working differently to any other except the sixth, these two are placed on H 4; whilst the fifth end only is left for the fifth heald. This draft, from its appearance, is dubbed a point draft or V draft.
LIFTING PLANS.
It is now necessary to indicate when the healds shall be lifted to make the cloth with the given draft. A portion of the point paper is taken as many spaces wide as there are healds, and as long as there are picks to the round.
Taking Fig. 37 again, for example, we find the lifting plan at D, the ends and picks being numbered. The marks indicate where the heald has to be lifted at the pick indicated; thus, taking the first heald, we find it to be lifted at the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th and 8th picks, a working necessary for the first end, which is drawn on the heald in question. The pegging plan for a dobby is a modification of this. (See page 106.)
For a straight draft the pattern is exactly a duplicate of the lifting plan. Other names for this plan are tie, working design, treading plan, and shedding plan. The tie is a plan serving the same purpose of the lifting plan, but somewhat differently arranged, the end being laid horizontally in a line with the heald through which they are drawn; thus, for the honeycomb, Fig. 37, the tie-up is shown at Fig. 38, in which A is the tie-up.
The lifting plan for Fig. 32 is shown at Fig. 34, A, while the tie-up is shown at Fig. 34, B.
SHEDDING.
The principal motions for shedding--_i.e._, raising the ends in the required order for producing the desired weave of cloth--are tappets, the dobby, and the jacquard. The tappets and the dobby are described in this Chapter. The tappets, which have the smaller range of work, are taken into consideration first.
TAPPETS.
For the simpler classes of fancy weaving, designated stavework, tappets are often used. These are arrangements of plates carrying projections to raise the healds when required, the plates being placed so that the projections in several plates which are to act at one pick are in line with each other, so as to raise the different healds at one and the same time. Tappets are fixed either above the loom (and are named motions or Jamieson’s tappets), or at the side of the loom--as, for instance, the Woodcroft tappets. In some cases, for three and four-shaft twills, under-heald tappets are used, and fixed on the twill-shaft previously referred to (page 76). In setting out a tappet--for a sateen motion, for instance--first get our pattern, Fig. 41, which is composed of Fig. 39, a satin, and Fig. 40, a plain for the selvage. Fig. 41 is the pattern on 7 healds and 10 picks to the round, that number being the least that will contain both 2 and 5 without remainder. The draft being straight over the pattern is also the lifting plan, and the first plate is required to lift the healds at the 1st and 6th picks. Dividing a circle into 10 parts, we take the first part, and allowing half a revolution of the crank-shaft for dwell, obtain an inclined portion C for the raising, and D for the depression of the heald (as described in Chapter IV.), by dividing E C into six parts, and describing six arcs of a circle, afterwards drawing a line diagonally. The tappet follows the circumference of the inner circle until it arrives at the 6th pick, when another projection must be raised. The complete tappet follows the form shown by the thick line.
It will be seen now that, as the tappet only moves 1/10th of a revolution for one pick of the loom, the heald connected with this plate will be actuated just as is required in the treading plan.
Four other similar plates must be cast for the other satin healds, which five will be bolted together so as to have projections at the 1, 3, 5, 2 and 4 picks, as shown at A. To these are bolted two plain plates, or, as is more usual, one casting equal to the whole seven. The plates for plain show an alternate projection and space. By the kindness of Messrs. Willan & Mills, of Blackburn, a sketch of their loom with one of these motions (Smalley’s patent) affixed to it is shown.
The tappet is fixed on the upper frame-work of the loom and short treadles arranged above it. To these the healds are attached and lifted by the plates, being drawn down afterwards by springs and the healds. In a recently-improved form the treadles raise the jacks to which the healds are attached, giving a straight lift. These tappets are seldom used for more than 8 healds and 12 picks to the round. Above this extent in tappet work, a Woodcroft sectional tappet is used, arranged at the loom side. In these tappets the projections (called risers and fallers) are removable, the tappet being adaptable to different patterns up to 14 staves and 20 picks. In the Yorkshire loom, Fig. 23, the tappets are placed at the loom side, and are connected with the top of the healds by rods.
Tappets possess the advantage over other shedding motions of larger capacity, such as the dobby: (_a_) in lower first cost; (_b_) steadier and stronger lift without risk of hooks slipping; (_c_) in having a split shed--_i.e._, a shed which has one portion pulled down while the other is drawn up, saving time. Dobbies and jacquards generally have a sunk shed, and if by those machines a shed 2 inches deep is required, the lifting knives have to be raised the whole distance, from the bottom to the top.
CLOTHS WOVEN BY TAPPETS.
Among the cloths woven on tappets there are twills, cloths in which a figure is woven diagonally across the cloth by raising the healds consecutively. They are in large variety, being woven on three shafts upwards and not confined to the lifting of a single heald at each pick; as in some cloths two or three out of a larger number may be raised, but the same number is up at every pick, although moving one end or more at each pick. A serge is a modification of a simple twill woven in this manner. Fig. 44 represents a 4-shaft twill rising one in four, while Fig. 45 shows a 4-end twill rising two in four, called a denim, swansdown, or cashmere twill. The satin weave is a broken twill--that is, instead of lifting consecutively at each pick, an end, or in some cases two ends, are passed over, as shown in Fig. 39 (sateen). The ends are lifted in this order: 1, 3, 5, 2, 4. A 5-stave, showing a weft satin, is the standard for _sateen_. The satin or broken twill applies to any number of twill staves--_e.g._, a 12-stave satin, passing 4 ends over, lifts 1, 6, 11, 4, 9, 2, 7, 12, 5, 10, 3, 8.
A perfect satin never shows contiguous ends lifting together, as such would give a “spotty” appearance. As almost all the weft shows at one side of the cloth, the parallelism of the threads gives to this weave its well-known lustre, but unless fine yarns and reed with heavy pick are used a very frail structure is the resultant.
_Stripes_ are of various kinds. The herring-bone or reversed twill forms an undulating pattern by using a point draft. Simple figures, on not more than six or eight staves, woven cramped between stripes of plain, are called doriah stripes.
PILE CLOTHS.
Velveteens are woven by motions similar to the one in Fig. 46, generally on six staves. The object aimed at in this cloth is to produce a firm ground cloth with picks of pile weft floating over several ends of warp. Pile picks are inserted between plain or twill ground picks and are firmly bound in at intervals, so that when the floating portion is slit by the cutter the pile threads will not be loose. In the uncut cloth a slight rib of weft is seen transversely. A pattern of velveteen is given at Fig. 46. Velveteen is classed with the figured cloths, for as it leaves the loom it presents no appearance which warrants other classification. The fourth class of fabrics--woven piles--is woven in an entirely different manner. A wire is inserted in every fourth shed instead of weft; picks of weft are then put in and the wire withdrawn. As it carries a knife, the loops of warp over the wire are cut as it is pulled out, leaving a pile on the cloth, the length of which is perfectly regular, differing from the weft pile velveteen in this respect. The wires are inserted and withdrawn by additional mechanism attached to the loom.
CORDS, FUSTIANS.
Cords, moleskins, corduroy, fustian, bull-hides, thicksets, are all pile fabrics of a heavy character. The pile is all in the weft floating upon a ground cloth. Different makes of each fabrics are woven and named frequently according to the style of this ground or backing weave--_e.g._, tabby back means plain, Genoa is a 4-end twill, Jeanette is a 3-end twill, double Genoa, double Jeanette. Woodcroft tappets are chiefly used in the production of these cloths. The cords show a broad wale or stripe running lengthway of the piece, consisting of weft floating over the warp and ground cloth, and in such a manner that when slit along the centre of each stripe the divided threads stand up to form a cord. The weft of the next wale being cut similarly, a stripe of pile fabrics is now formed, having its centre above the groove which divided each stripe of uncut yarn. A rounded effect is given to these cords by having the threads forming the centre of greater lengths than the sides of the cord, they having had a longer float in the weaving. This cloth is dyed and finished, being sold as corduroy.
Cords are of several kinds, one class named “constitution,” of which a pattern is given at Fig. 47, on 12 ends and 12 picks, requiring 8 staves to weave it. The constitution is the broadest cord, the thickset cord being the finest, whilst 8 and 9 shafts, bang-up, Mellor’s round top and cable cords are names given to other varieties.
Constitutionals are generally made on 8 shafts; yarns, 30/2 fold twist; 16’s to 20’s weft; 120 to 140 picks to a quarter inch; 36 to 44 reed, Stockport; 31 inches wide, 100 yards long. Cables are on 10 and 12 shafts. Thicksets are on 6 ends and 9 picks, 30 inches wide; 30 to 44 reed, Stockport; 90 to 120 picks to quarter inch; 14’s twist, 22’s weft. In imitating skins of animals the bull-hide weave is resorted to either for beaver or lambskin finish; woven on 8 ends and 8 picks. Moleskin is a smooth, solid cloth, and, before finishing, shows a very slight longitudinal rib which distinguishes it from the cotton velvets, which have a transverse rib. Moleskin is often called velveteen, although not correctly so; really, velveteens are the cotton weft pile velvets previously described.
These classes of cloth are woven with the non-positive or drag take-up motion, which draws forward the cloth as it is knocked up by the slay. A catch is raised by the rocking shaft of the loom, and actuates by a ratchet worm and wheel the cloth roller. The catch is only weighted sufficiently to draw the cloth forward when it is knocked up, thus not acting when no weft is in the loom.
There is a heavy cloth woven from coarse (waste) yarns named cotton blankets or cotton flannel. This fabric passes through a raising machine, in which its surface is scratched by pointed steel teeth. It is exported chiefly.
Double cloth may be woven by tappets, but as it is more frequently done in the dobby, we will consider it in connection with that machine; the same may be said of some spots, handkerchiefs, and other goods.
DOBBIES.
These shedding motions, in principle, perhaps, bear more relation to the jacquard than to the tappets, but are included in the same chapter as the last in consequence of their frequent association in the same shed of looms, both being adapted for stave work.
The dobby, for very many classes of fancy cotton cloth, has gained a reputation as a good shedding motion, and is well worthy the attention of a student of this branch of industry. Its capacity is superior to tappets, extending to 40 shafts, and over two hundred picks to the round in some makes.
The machine is fixed above the loom, Plate VII., giving a direct lift to the healds, which are kept down by springs or dead weights.
Dobbies are occasionally of single lift, but in the cotton trade far more frequently double. The difference is in the double lift having two sets of knives: either knife can lift any heald, and, by duplicating, a second knife can be preparing for and even commencing to lift a heald as the first drops; it thus saves time and increases speed. In single lift machines only one knife is used, and in case of a heald having to be raised two picks in succession, it would have to be dropped to the bottom of the shed after the first pick, and raised again. A double lift Keighley is often called, in error, a single lift, in consequence of only one shedding rod being used; it however lifts twice in one complete stroke. Dobbies have the advantage over tappets in increased power of weaving fancier cloths, a greater number of picks to the round, and a possibility of changing to other patterns.
The leading characteristic of dobbies is, that by means of pegs placed in revolving lattices, any heald can be selected and raised by the machine.
The favourite dobby is the improved Keighley, first patented in 1867 by Messrs. Hattersley & Smith, of that town--it was used to a considerable extent, but recent improvements have greatly increased its value. Plate VII. and Fig. 48 show a general view of the machine--one of Henry Livesey’s, Limited, make, on Ward’s principle, 20 jacks, double lift. At the under side is seen a pegged lattice; immediately above the pegs and resting on the topmost lag is a row of levers, double the number of shafts or jacks representing the capacity.
The [T] knife lever works on the centre shown, and slides the knives backwards and forwards in grooves at A and B.
The jacks to which at one end the heald cords are attached have at the other end latches fixed to them, which are out of the way of the sliding knives, unless purposely dropped on to them.
When a lag is in gear without any pegs, none of the latches touch the knives, and there is consequently no raising of the healds. If all the holes be pegged, one end of each lever is raised, the other end depressed, and consequently all the latches drop on the knives; at the next stroke of which all the healds will be lifted.
By pegging a few of the holes, say the 1st, 3rd, and 10th, we should find only those three healds lifted; in this manner any desired working of the healds may be obtained. The lattice is made up of lags, each of which suffices for two picks, and as the barrel of the dobby will not hold less than 8 lags, a pattern of 16 picks or more is required, unless a smaller pattern be repeated.
In pegging, the lags are placed so that the lattice stands as in the machine, thus:--
In a left-hand machine the numbers here given (Fig. 49) represent the order of the picks, the lattice when in use moving over to the left. B indicates the peg-hole for the back-jack, the front or first jack being at A, and the other holes ranging between; there are two rows of holes on each lag, each equal to 1 pick.
Taking Fig. 37, showing lifting plan which occupies 5 healds and 8 picks, the pegging for this dobby will be as under, the small number indicating where the peg is placed and which jack is lifted, the picks being also indicated:--
As at least 16 picks are required, a lattice would be prepared for 8 lags, 4 being a repeat of those given.
For the other hand of dobby the pegging would commence at the right hand for the first pick, and move towards the left.
The tie-up, shown in Fig. 38, A, is correct pegging for a right-hand Keighley or Ward dobby, as is also 34, B.
Among other makes of shedding machines the common dobby or witch machine may be mentioned. It is of earlier invention than the Keighley, patents having been taken out for it at varying dates from 1830 to 1850. In it the knives slide vertically; there are two lattices, all the odd picks being on one side, the even ones on the other, and a peg indicates a faller--contrarily to the Keighley.
A sketch of a double-lift machine on this system, called by the makers a Blackburn dobby, is shown at Fig. 51.
The connection of the jacks with the lifting knives is made by hooked wires, 2 wires to each jack. Where there is no peg these hooks are in position over the knives; thus, whichever knife should lift, the jack will be lifted by one of the two hooks. Where there is a peg, however, the wire is pressed back slightly, sufficiently so as to remove the hook at the top of the wire away from the knife; and there is no lift for the jack to which the wire is attached.
The pegging for a Blackburn dobby of pattern Fig. 32 is shown in Fig. 52, which represents six jacks and four lags on each side of the machine, a lag in the Blackburn dobby only carrying the pegs for one pick. The large figures indicate the picks and the smaller ones the jack pegged for the picks against which they stand.
The Keighley is generally preferred by practical men for its strength and less liability of getting disarranged or broken. Other makes of dobbies are made, resembling in principle one or other of the types given.
CLOTHS WOVEN ON THE DOBBY
Include all makes from plain to 40-shaft patterns. Stripe patterns of the character described on page 101 are frequent; indeed, this shedding motion is useful for stave work of all kinds, including:--
_Spots or Brilliantes_--- Small figures woven in the fabric at regular intervals, often made from 10 to 14 shafts, on a plain ground. Also, cotton dress materials woven in figured stripes, or a combination of stripes to form figured checks, spot figures, satin stripes and checks, spot figures on plain satin or oatmeal ground--the latter weave being used frequently in fancy cloths woven with coarse yarn, the effect being to show short floating ends apparently irregularly on the face of the cloth, and thus a rough appearance is imparted. The oatmeal weave is in different styles up to 40-shaft.
Double cloth is not now often made in cotton, except for pillow slips, light bags, and similar cloths.
The semi-double cloth of the Yorkshire trade, formed by having an extra weft or warp for putting a cheap back to the cloths, is not known in Lancashire; the extra weft of the velveteen being most nearly approaching the principle. In plain, double cloth weaving, both warps are on one beam, four healds being employed, each movable, independent of the others. Two healds carry the top cloth ends and two the bottom cloth. The shuttle first puts a pick in the top cloth, passing over three ends out of four, all the ends for the bottom cloth being down and half of the top cloth ends; then all the top cloth ends are raised with half of the bottom cloth ends, the shuttle passing under three out of four, and throwing a pick into the bottom cloth. The ends of the top cloth are drawn in the first and second healds, those for the bottom in the third and fourth, thus:--
B------4 B--3---- T----2-- T-1-----
and are lifted as under:--
The pegging being-- 4th pick = Nos. 1, 2, 3 . * . . 3rd pick = No. 2 . . . * 2nd pick = Nos. 1, 2, 4 . * * * 1st pick = No. 1 * * . * 1 2 3 4
The selvages are bound by the weft passing from the upper to the lower cloths, and _vice versâ_.
In some cloth, for bags, plain weaving of all the ends is resorted to at certain points to seam up the cloth. A three-stave twill weave may be used by arranging the draft and pegging for six healds or a five-thread satin on ten healds.
FIGURED DHOOTIES.
In no stripe pattern, perhaps, is the dobby more generally used than in these cloths. They differ from the ordinary plain dhootie in having coloured ends woven to a pattern along each selvage, or occasionally 12 or 15 inches from the side also. The patterns at each side are balanced--that is, similar in figure, with the inner part of the figure at one side being also the inner part at the other side. This style of cloth may be described as figure with extra warp, for the plain weave extends under the figure, the figuring ends being “cramped” between the plains, and bound by passing through the plain cloth. In designing for these the plain end may be neglected.
The width of the coloured border is generally about 1 inch, although extending to 4 inches in special cases.
The beams are warped in the manner described for plain dhooties, but only the grey ends are drawn in the healds with any coloured warp which has to weave plain. The ends which form the pattern are drawn through harness composed of separate leashes and mail eyes, each with an elastic thread tied to them. These we will refer to as the leashes. They are placed behind the healds and tied as required to the jacks above; the elastic cords are fixed to a bracket below, so as to draw down the leash after the shedding. Above the mail eye is fixed a cumber board perforated with rows of small holes, and used for keeping the leashes in proper order, so as not to become entangled in the weaving. A clear pattern is a great desideratum in this cloth, consequently it is generally woven face down to prevent spoiling face by drooping ends. In pegging for it the wrong side of the cloth is taken, a pattern of it obtained from the coloured figuring ends only in the usual way, and drafted on the required number of jacks. The leashes are drawn through the cumber board about 6 in each row, but so arranged as to have all those to be tied to one jack drafted together.
The ends are drawn through at the drawer-in’s frame, and the leashes having been previously looped in bunches, each bunch containing those intended for one jack, the beam is ready for the loom.
In gaiting up, the coloured ends often pass over a small special back rest, and the bunches of leashes are tied to their respective jacks. By pegging the dobby in the required order any desired jack or jacks may be raised, and those ends kept above the plain cloth. When the jacks are lowered back the same ends will weave below the plain cloth. The body of the cloth is generally of plain weave, although stripe and check patterns are occasionally introduced.
GAUZE AND LENO CLOTH.
This class of fabric is frequently woven by means of the dobby, although the tappet and jacquard are occasionally used should the pattern come within the scope of either. The peculiarity of gauze is, that some of the warp ends cross over one or more of the other warp ends between the picks, giving an open fabric, sometimes of a beautifully delicate nature, and yet strong, considering the small amount of material used. When gauze weaving is combined with plain it is styled leno. The latter name is sometimes erroneously attached to the gauze itself.
Fig. 53 shows a pure gauze in plan, and Fig. 54 the same in section.
Fig. 55 is the plan of a leno. The threads marked heavily in each case are the crossing threads. It will be noted from Fig. 54 that the crossing thread passes up alternately at each side of the backing thread, pick by pick.
The operation of crossing is performed by doup healds. In these an additional loop or half heald carrying a stave at the bottom is slung through the eye of an ordinary heald (Fig. 57). For the purpose of description, the whole of this heald will be termed the doup. This heald is used for crossing purposes, while two or more ordinary healds are provided for the purpose of varying the working, if necessary. The draft for cloths, Figs. 53 and 55, is as shown by Fig. 56. The crossing thread is drawn through two healds and passes under the backing thread as shown.
However, the heald No. 2 can be used to raise the crossing thread on the left-hand side of the backing thread, although it is drawn to the right of it at the front, as whenever the back heald is lifted, the loose stave of the doup is lifted also, and the crossing thread is thus free to be wrought by No. 2.
The weaving of the plain is performed by either No. 2 and the doup, or by Nos. 1 and 2. In weaving the gauze portion, healds No. 1 and the doup are used only.
Four jacks are required--one for the back heald, one for No. 1 heald, one for lifting the whole doup when weaving gauze, and a fourth for raising the half loop when necessary to release the crossing thread.
To weave the design Fig. 55 with the given draft, at the bottom pick No. 2 heald and the loop will be raised, at the next pick above the whole doup requires lifting, at the third No. 2 and the loop, at the fourth the doup, at the fifth No. 2 and the loop, at the sixth the plain commences and the doup is raised, at the seventh No. 1 is raised, eighth the doup, ninth No. 1, tenth the doup, which completes the pattern, the eleventh being a repeat of the first.
It is not necessary that the crossing should be round one thread only, but may be round three or four; to do this, of course, the crossing thread would have to be drawn under three or four backing ends in the healds.
The crossing may also be in opposite directions, say--
as in Fig. 59, where the crossing thread passes over two backing ends. Every alternate end is, in this case, douped contrarily, the same healds being used--the difference being made in the draft. This style is called netting.
All the patterns hitherto mentioned have been single doups. A more highly-ornamental class of goods is made in double-douped cloth. Here two-doup healds are used, and, consequently, half of the crossing threads may be weaving plain at the same picks that the others are douping, and then a reversal is made--the first half commencing to doup while the other section is weaving plain. Thus, check patterns are made alternately gauze and plain. Double-douped netting and stripe patterns may also be made. With a single doup, only stripe patterns may be produced with the gauze running either transversely or longitudinally. For more complicated patterns three or even four doups are employed.
Gauze patterns are not generally marked on paper as are other fabrics, but sketched thus:--
HANDKERCHIEFS.
Handkerchiefs are made in cotton, either by the drop-box, the dobby, or by a handkerchief motion. We are referring now to those made without colour, with ribbed side and cross borders. A stripe border is made by warping the necessary coarse ends (to form the selvage) with the plain ends. To put in the cross border, either the drop-box loom is used with two or more shuttles having different counts of yarn, or, as is more general, the shed is kept open for the reception of several picks of weft in the same counts as the body of the handkerchief. This is easily done by the dobby, which also continues to hold the weft at each selvage by a few plain ends worked from a different jack, or by a catch cord.
It is impossible to have a lattice with as many lags as there are picks from heading to heading, consequently lags are pegged to weave the heading only, the lattice being stopped during the time that the plain body of the handkerchief is being woven. In the double-lift dobby it is possible to stop it, so that the pegging of the lags where the motion of the lattice is arrested will suffice to weave plain until motion is again communicated to the lattice.
Sometimes a special handkerchief motion is used. In this arrangement a chain of lags is arranged, each lag having holes for three pegs. By means of this motion, which is shown in Fig. 61, “a border can be obtained without drop-boxes or dobby, _and without reducing the speed of the loom_. The tappets, which are of the usual form for plain weaving, are not secured to the tappet shaft, but are driven from it through the medium of a clutch, which, when disengaged, allows the shaft to continue revolving whilst the tappets remain stationary; thereby enabling any required number of picks, even or odd, to be put into the same shed, according to the length of time they are kept in this condition. The clutch is under the control of a set of lattice, which cause the disengagement of the clutch, and a succession of pegs causes the tappets to remain out of action according to the desired number of picks required.”
The other pegs regulate, secondly, the stoppage of the take-up to give a better defined rib; and thirdly to stop the chain itself when necessary. The chain only represents the picks in the heading, and is stopped during the plain weaving of the body. It is started again by an ingenious measuring motion, which by a contrivance of levers starts the chain one pick, after which the catch put out of gear by peg three continues the motion. The makers claim for this motion a high rate of speed, and a low first cost of apparatus.