Corticelli Home Needlework, 1898: A Manual of Art, Embroidery and Knitting

Part 7

Chapter 73,886 wordsPublic domain

After the embroidery is finished, proceed to complete the frame as follows: cover the face of the frame with cotton wadding, and lay the embroidered linen on top, being careful to see that the design is in proper position, the plain part being over the opening in the frame. Draw the linen tightly and tack with pins on each corner. Now place the frame on its face, stretch the linen over its edges and fasten it on the back with good, strong glue or mucilage,--glue is preferable. Be careful to draw tightly and avoid creases. Allow plenty of time to dry; then with a sharp penknife, cut the opening, if it be a square one, making four cuts from the center to each of the four sides of the opening, thus: X. Draw the four pieces cut through the opening and paste them on the back. If the opening is an oval, begin at the center and cut the linen in slits toward edge; draw tightly and evenly and glue down. Place the photograph in position over the opening; over this put the cardboard, which will hold the picture in place. Clean the glass and slip the linen, cardboard and all, into the frame. Now slide the back into place and the frame is complete.

If you do not want to purchase a ready made frame, any good stationer will mount your embroidered linen, or you can do it yourself and then have it framed by a stationer. A small gilt beading made to order will increase the beauty of the frame. In mounting follow these instructions: cut a frame from heavy cardboard, the stiffer the better, about 7 x 9 inches, noting the size of the linen and allowing an inch margin on sides, top, and bottom. Cut a hole in the cardboard for opening for picture, and proceed to mount as per directions for "Imperial" frames. If the embroidery is not to be put under glass, cut out another piece of thin cardboard, size of first, cover with silk, sateen, or linen, and then sew front and back together on sides and bottom, leaving enough space at top to slip in the picture. Use white silk and make stitches as fine as possible. If you cannot obtain a ready made easel to put on the back, make one from stiff cardboard, covered with linen.

_Holly Photograph Frame Design No. 1._

BY AMALIA SMITH.

_Materials_--8 x 10 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 582, 583, 584, 586, 754, 767, 768, 781, 785. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design 10 x 12 inches. See page 92.

It would be impossible to find a more appropriate Christmas present than this pretty Holly design, embroidered and neatly framed ready for inserting the picture.

Berries.--Work in satin stitch similar to working jewels (see page 62), with Corticelli Filo Silk, Red, 767, 768, using only one shade in each berry.

Leaves.--Work solid, using Green, 781, for the edge. Shade darker toward the midvein with 754, 582, 583, 785, 586. Make some leaves darker than others. Work the stems and veins in 584 and 785. For directions for mounting and framing see page 69.

_Pansy Photograph Frame Design No. 5._

INSTRUCTIONS BY ELIZABETH MOORE HALLOWELL.

_Materials_--8 x 10 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 504, 672, 674, 676, 726, 727, 729.5, 743, 783, 785. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design 10 x 12 inches. See page 92.

"Pansies for thoughts" are always pleasant to associate with tokens of friendship; and the needlewoman who selects this subject for her skill may be sure that her choice will prove a welcome gift to a friend.

Pansies.--Use Corticelli Filo Silk, Purple, 726, 727, 729.5. For another shade of purple, which will give variety, yet will combine well with the above, take 672, 674, and 676.

Flowers.--In working the flowers use the ordinary long and short stitch, keeping each petal with the stitches tending towards the center of the flower; let the darkest shading be at the edge of the petal, shading gradually to light at the base; and in several of the flowers let the two upper petals be quite dark. More than this will give too heavy an effect; therefore work the other blossoms in the lighter shades, letting the veinings only, be dark. One large French knot of Yellow, 504, will be needed in the center of each pansy.

Leaves.--The leaves may be worked in long and short stitch, with 783 and 785, keeping the direction of the stitches toward the central vein, but inclining downward to the base of the leaf. A careful study of Colored Plate I (Frontispiece) will give one suggestions as to the proper shading, and will be found as helpful as more elaborate directions would be, although the colors are not identical with those for this design.

Before mounting the embroidery be sure that it is well pressed; if it has become in any way soiled, it should be carefully washed according to the directions given on page 6. Rules for mounting and framing will be found on page 69.

_Violet Photograph Frame Design No. 3._

DOUBLE FRAME FOR TWO PICTURES.

_Materials_--10 × 13 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 506, 726, 727, 728, 729, 781, 782, 783. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design 12 × 15 inches. See page 92.

Violets.--Use same instructions as given for working Violet Design No. 402 A, page 40. Directions for mounting and framing will be found on page 69.

_Forget-me-not Frame Design No. 60._

BY EMMA HAYWOOD.

_Materials_--8 × 10 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 115, 623, 624, 678, 780, 781, 782. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design, 10 × 12 inches, which allows ample margin for mounting. See page 92.

The simple Forget-me-not design for a photograph frame for a cabinet sized photograph should be very popular. To present one's picture thus framed to a valued friend carries with it a pretty sentiment, the favorite little flower of heavenly blue pleading for us that we may be remembered. The treatment is of the simplest kind. Both blossoms, buds, and leaves are worked in satin stitch, with French knots for the centers. The stems are in outline or stem stitch. For such small flowers Corticelli Filo Silk should be used in preference to any other kind of silk. Work the blossoms with 623, 624; the leaves and stems with 780, 781, 782. A very artistic effect can also be gained by working the blossoms with 699, 700, putting in the leaves and stems with 107, 108, 109. Make the French knots for the centers with 115. The buds may be of a delicate Pink, 678. Rules for mounting and framing will be found on page 69. (Easy.)

_Jewel Photograph Frame Design No. 61._

BY EMMA HAYWOOD.

_Materials_--8 × 10 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 105, 138, 139, 141, 142, 501, 624, 646, 647, 656, 657, 701, 702. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design, 10 × 12 inches. See page 92.

There has always been a great demand for embroidered photograph frames, and recently those in simulated jewels have been among the most popular patterns. When worked the color effect will be found very rich and pleasing.

Leaves and Stems.--Work the leaves and stems in Olive Green Corticelli Filo Silk. For the leaves take 138, 139, 141, and 142, shading the spray from light to dark, working in satin stitch. Make one leaf in one shade and the next one in another.

Jewels.--Work the three jewels at each corner to represent rubies, using 656, 657, the darker shade for the one in the middle. Working horizontally toward the center at top and bottom, the next group of three jewels should represent the topaz, and for this choose Yellow, 501. Still following the scroll toward the center, work the next three to represent the turquoise, using 701, 702; the darker shade for the jewel in the middle of the group, the lighter shade for the one on each side. We now come to the center of the frame. Work this group of three jewels in Salmon Pink, 105.

For the side scrolls, begin at the center, using 701, 702. The three jewels on each side of these work in 105, and the remaining group between those in 105 and the corner, should be made in 624. All jewels must be outlined with 646 or 647. Full directions for working jewels are given in the instructions for the Jewel Centerpiece Design No. 50, page 61. Rules for mounting and framing will be found on page 69. (Somewhat Difficult.)

_Garland Photograph Frame Design No. 62._

COLORED PLATE XXV.

BY ALICE C. MORSE.

_Materials_--8 x 10 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 124, 125, 126, 127, 503, 504, 505, 623, 624, 625, 636, 637, 638, 639. This quantity is more than enough. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design, 10 x 12 inches. See page 92.

Wild Roses.--Work the petals solid with Corticelli Filo Silk, beginning at the edge with 639, shading towards the center with 638, 637, 636. Work the petals that seem to be in the background darker than those that overlap them. Vary the shading in some of the flowers. In the center work a few French knots with 505. See Colored Plate XXV.

Forget-me-nots.--Work in satin stitch each petal or all petals in one flower in one shade of Blue, 623, 624, 625. Place one French knot in the center of the open flowers, using Yellow, 503.

Ribbon.--Work in satin stitch, in Yellow, 503, 504, slanting the stitches across the ribbon. Be careful to preserve the correct effect of the twisted part by working one side of the fold in 503, the next fold in 504, and so on. See Colored Plate XXV.

Leaves.--Work in satin stitch, using Green, 124, 125, 126, 127, making half of each leaf in one shade. Outline the stems with 127. Rules for mounting and framing will be found on page 69. (Somewhat Difficult.)

_Jonquil Photograph Frame Design No. 63._

BY ELIZABETH MOORE HALLOWELL.

_Materials_--8 x 10 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 502, 503, 504, 506, 507, 750, 751, 752, 781, 782, 783, 783.5, 784. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design, 10 x 12 inches. See page 92.

For an Easter greeting, or a birthday present in early spring, a frame worked in this design will prove a welcome offering. This design may also be used for a magazine or book cover.

Flowers.--These may be worked in long and short stitch, or half solid Kensington, in which case somewhat less than the quantity of silk named above will be sufficient. However, we strongly advise working the whole design in solid embroidery, as the effect is very handsome and will repay one for the extra labor. Begin working the edge of the cup with Yellow, 504, gradually shading darker to the base with 506, 507, keeping the stitches perfectly straight. Work the edge of petals in Yellow, 502, and shade darker with 503, 504, to the cup. That part of the flower between cup and stem should be worked in 506 and 507. The curious paper-like shell which surrounds the flower at the point of attachment to the stem, work with 750, 751, 752, using 750 for the point, and shading darker to the stem.

Leaves.--Work solid, beginning at the point with 781, shading gradually darker to the base, using 782, 783, 783.5, 784. Work the stems solid in Olive Green, 782, 783, 783.5, 784, shading from dark near the bottom to light nearest the flowers. A little of 782 should be worked at one side of some of the stems.

Opening.--Outline the opening for the picture and the other straight lines in the design with Yellow, 507. Rules for mounting and framing will be found on page 69. (Not Difficult.)

_Corticelli Doily Book._

_Materials_--Corticelli Filo Silk: 3 skeins each of two shades. (See below.) 1 piece linen, either Blue, Green, Tan, or Terra Cotta, 12 x 20 inches, stamped with this design; 1 Doily Book. Dealers can furnish all the above material. See page 92.

For Blue Linen use Corticelli Filo Silk, Yellow, 741, 743.5, or Pink, 678, 680.

For Green Linen use Corticelli Filo Silk, Green, 693, 695, or Purple, 650, 651.5.

For Tan Linen use Corticelli Filo Silk, Scarlet, 537, 539, or Pink, 572, 573.5.

For Terra Cotta Linen use Corticelli Filo Silk, Pink, 635.5, 638, or Green, 124, 127.

When working either Blue, Green, or Terra Cotta Colored Linen the proper color numbers can easily be substituted in the following instructions.

Every needleworker usually has several choice doilies that when not in use should be kept in some clean place where they will remain smooth and flat. This book holds twelve doilies. It contains thirteen leaves of tinted cardboard, each measuring 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 inches. The covers are stiff and the binding is strong.

Tan Linen and Scarlet Silk.--For the word "Doilies" use the darkest shade (539) Corticelli Filo Silk. First stuff the letters with embroidery cotton (or better still with Corticelli Roman Floss of same shade as silk) similar to the manner of working jewels. (See page 62.) Then cover the filling in satin stitch. The letters should appear as if raised. Work the four corner figures with long and short stitch in two shades of silk, using the lightest (537) for the outside and the darkest (539) for the inside, which includes the dot in the center. Work the stem or scroll in outline stitch in the lightest shade (537), and make the leaves running from it solid, in long and short stitch, with alternating shades of silk. The jewels in the scroll and the four just inside it should be first stuffed and then covered similar to the letters in the word "Doilies."

When completed, stretch the linen firmly over the stiff pasteboard covers and glue down on the inside. Sew two short ribbons, the color of the silk, to the linen on the inside, for tying the covers together. (Not Difficult.)

_Initials and Monograms._

BY DELLA V. WHIPPLE.

The newest way for marking handkerchiefs is one's own writing transferred with carbon, then worked in a very narrow satin stitch, with a decided slant to the stitches. The accompanying monogram is a pretty and practical one. Embroider the single lines same as described above, fill in the broad portions with perpendicular stitches, piling high, and cover with satin stitch same slant as the lines. Make the dots in French knots. If one is partial to French knots a good way is to outline all of the lines of letters, using Kensington outline stitch and fill in the broad parts with the knots.

The initial letters shown on the opposite page were drawn for 1898 Corticelli Home Needlework by a St. Louis artist. They are specially adapted to the purpose for which they are intended and are very pretty when worked according to the following instructions.

All letters look best if given a raised effect. To do this stuff the space between the lines with Corticelli Roman Floss, after the manner of working jewels (see page 62), taking care to have the stitches of the filling laid in the opposite direction to that which the covering stitches will take. With two threads of Corticelli Filo Silk cover the stuffing in satin stitch. Color 615, White, is usually used, although some prefer Cream White, 616, or Cream, 616.5. The Roman Floss used for stuffing should be of the same shade as the Filo Silk. A pretty way for making very small letters is to just follow the outline with small cross stitches.

_Marking Clothing._

While the neatest way to mark clothing is by one's initials embroidered in Corticelli Filo Silk, as above suggested, this is not practical for many articles. Tablecloths, napkins, sheets, pillow cases, white spreads, towels, shirts, collars, and cuffs, also, must be plainly marked for convenience in sorting and identifying personal articles in the family wash and to avoid being lost when entrusted to public laundries. For this nothing is better than Payson's Indelible Ink. With a bottle of this ink and a common pen one can easily mark all necessary articles. A good idea is to keep on hand a few yards of linen tape, on which your name is written many times with this ink. Cut the tape as wanted and sew on to stockings, or other articles having too rough a surface for pen work.

_Tea Cloths, Tray Cloths, and Bureau Scarfs._

_Purple Clematis Tea Cloth Design No. 437 A._

DRAWN WORK AND HEMSTITCHED EDGE.

BY ELIZABETH MOORE HALLOWELL.

_Materials_--Tea Cloth 45 x 45 inches: Corticelli Filo Silk, 6 skeins 729; 5 skeins 728; 4 skeins 727; 3 skeins each 725, 726, 781, 782, 783, 784, 785; 1 skein each 621, 622, 779.5, 780. The smaller size takes less silk. Dealers can furnish hemstitched stamped linen of this design, with drawn work edge, in two sizes, as follows: 436 A, 36 × 36 inches, 437 A, 45 × 45 inches. See page 92.

Use same instructions for embroidering this tea cloth as given for Purple Clematis Design No. 56, page 55, and illustrated by Colored Plate XXII. (Not Difficult.)

_Cosmos Tea Cloth Design No. 437 B._

DRAWN WORK AND HEMSTITCHED EDGE.

_Materials_--Tea Cloth 45 × 45 inches: Corticelli Filo Silk, 6 skeins each 655.7, 655.8; 5 skeins 655.9; 4 skeins 616.5; 2 skeins each 109, 110, 123, 504, 506, 781, and 782. The smaller size takes less silk. Dealers can furnish hemstitched stamped linen of this design, with drawn work edge, in two sizes as follows: 436 B, 36×36 inches; 437 B, 45×45 inches. See page 92.

Flowers.--Work solid. For the edge of petals use 655.7, 655.8, shading lighter gradually to the center with 616.5, 123. Give a touch of Pink, 655.9, to some of the petals to give an effect of shadow where the petals lap; but not too much, as the flowers should be quite pale. In the center work a number of short stamens with Green, 781, and make French knots at the points of stamens in Yellow, 504 and 506. Work the buds and half flowers in the same manner, although choose the darker shades for the very small buds. Work the upper part of calyx with Green, 781, and the part near the stem with 782.

Leaves.--Slant the stitches downward as you would to work stems. Tip the points of the leaves with Green, 781, shading gradually darker toward the stems with 782, 109, 110. Work the stems with 109, 110. (Not Difficult.)

_Sweet Pea Tea Cloth Design No. 407 G._

HEMSTITCHED AND SILK CORDED EDGE.

COLORED PLATE XXVII.

(See Illustration on Page 81.)

BY AMALIA SMITH.

_Materials_--Corticelli Filo Silk: 2 skeins each 501, 502, 503, 616, 616.5, 678, 679, 680, 681, 725, 726, 727, 729, 757, 780, 781, 782, 783, 784. Dealers can furnish hemstitched stamped linen of this design, 36 × 36 inches. See page 92.

Sweet peas grow in such a variety of exquisite colorings that the utmost license is available in selecting the colors for each flower. However, be careful to avoid startling combinations. The following suggestions for a color scheme will be found to give a very pretty effect.

Flowers.--Work solid, being careful to start the stitches in the right direction. Begin the edge of the petal with a dark shade, shade gradually lighter to the stem. The stitches should be taken in a downward curve to the stem. Make some flowers pink on the edge and yellow near the stem; make others shade from pink to violet; still another flower violet and yellow, and again working some all of one color, shading from dark on edge to light near the stem. Work the calyx in Green, 781, 782, the darker shade near the stem.

Leaves.--Work solid, using Green, 781, 782, 783, 784, making the points of the leaves light and shading darker near the center, using two shades in a leaf. Make the larger leaves near the base of the spray in the darker shades of green. Use 757 for the stems. For tendrils choose 780 and 781.

Carefully examine Colored Plate XXVII. This shows the proper stitch direction and the shading of the flowers and leaves. Unless you thoroughly understand "long and short" stitch and "feather stitch," make a study of the article on "Embroidery Stitches--Described and Illustrated," especially of pages 11 and 12. (Difficult.)

_Wild Rose Bureau Scarf Design No. 434 B._

HEMSTITCHED AND DRAWN WORK EDGE.

_Materials_--Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 639, 782; 1 skein each 504, 636, 637, 638, 640, 655.7, 755, 780, 781, 783. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design with hemstitched and drawn work edge, 18 × 36 inches. See page 92.

Roses and Leaves.--Use same instructions as given for Wild Rose Design No. 603 E, page 28, and illustrated by Colored Plate IX. If desired the petals of the roses may be worked "half solid," using the long and short stitch. The leaves also can be worked in the same manner. The more effective way, however, is to work both roses and leaves solid, as described in the instructions to which reference is given.

_Rabbit Chafing Dish Tray Cloth Design No. 53 A._

COLORED PLATE XXVI.

_Materials_--Corticelli Filo Silk: 2 skeins each 134, 136, 137, 779.5, 781, 782; 1 skein each 105, 140, 534, 561, 645, 646, 647, 656, 783, 784. Corticelli Persian Floss, 10 skeins 781. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design, 18×27 inches. See page 92.

A Chafing Dish is to be found in nearly every home, and many are the choice concoctions that owe their existence to the little alcohol lamp and the simmering pan of water. The design shown here is especially appropriate for a chafing dish tray cloth.

Use the same instructions as given for working Design No. 53, page 68, and illustrated by Colored Plate XXVI.

_Daisy Tray Cloth Design, No. 406 D._

HEMSTITCHED EDGE.

_Materials_--For Silk necessary to embroider this tray cloth, and instructions for same, see Daisy Design, page 65. Made in sizes, 18 x 27 and 18 x 36 inches. Also for bureau scarfs, 17×54 and 17×72. Dealers can furnish stamped linen, with hemstitched edge, of this design, in all of the above sizes. See page 92.

Hemstitched linen, similar to Daisy Tray Cloth Design No. 406 D, can also be furnished by dealers in the above sizes, stamped with the following designs: 406 A, Apple Blossom; 406 B, Buttercup; 406 C, Chrysanthemum; 406 E, Sweet Pea; 406 F, Forget-me-not. For instructions for working and silk required, see pages 63, 64, 65, and 66.

_Sofa Pillow Design No. 508._

_Materials_--1 piece plaid cambric, 24 x 48 inches, stamped with a wide colored check, with 5 yards double ruffling of same material; Corticelli Roman Floss, 9 skeins (6 of the light shade, and 3 of the dark shade). For colors see below. Dealers can furnish all of above material. See page 92.