Part 5

Leaves.--Begin the edges with 781, shading gradually darker to the center with 782 and 783. Make some lighter by using 780 on the edge and 782 for the darkest shade. Vein with 783. For the stems use Green, 782, 783, and 755, working solid and making the end of the stem darker than the part nearest the flower. (Difficult.)

_Thistle Design No. 609 E._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 684, 685, 686, 754, 781, 782, 783, 784; 1 skein each 672, 675, 726, 727, 729. Corticelli Persian Floss, 4 skeins 615; 3 skeins 672. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 22 inch size. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 672 and 615. Work the outside scallop with Persian Floss, White, 615, and the small twining scallop with 672. See Colored Plate IV for method of working border.

Thistles.--Work the thistle with Corticelli Filo Silk, Purple, 672, 726, 727, 675, 729. Make each strand very fine and make each with as much of a feathery effect as possible. At the top of the thistle use 672, 726, and a little of 727. Make the upper part light; near the center use the darker shades, 675, 727, 729, but use 675 and 729 sparingly. Work the bulb of the thistle solid in Green, 781, 782, 783, 784. Near the top of the bulb work one or more rows, according to the size of the bulb, with Green, 782; the next two rows near the middle of the bulb, with 781, then gradually darker to the bottom near the stem. Another way to work the bulb is to work it solid with Green, 781, and cross-bar with Bronze Green, 852.

Leaves.--Work solid. Make one spray of leaves with Green, 781, 782, 783, 784. Use 781 for the points of the leaves and shade darker toward the center. Vein with 782, 783, 784. For another spray of leaves use 754, 684, 685, 686, working in the same manner as described above. Work the stems in stem stitch with 784, giving quite a slant to the stitches. (Not Difficult.)

_Buttercup Design No. 611 A._

ROCOCO BORDER.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 615, 692.8; 1 skein each 503, 504, 505, 506, 507, 692.9, 753, 754, 780, 781, 782. Corticelli Persian Floss, 5 skeins 615. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 22 inch size. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615, in buttonhole stitch long and short to the inside line. Shade into the white with one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, 692.8., making an even line or finish on the narrow part of the scallop but leaving an uneven edge at the points. Shade these points with a few stitches of 692.9, thus giving them a darker effect.

Four Corners in Border.--Work the cross-bar in outline stitch with one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, 692.8. Make a cross stitch with 692.9 where the lines intersect. Stuff the two jewels with cotton, or, better still, Corticelli Persian Floss, to raise the work, and then work over in satin stitch with Filo, 692.8, and outline with the same shade.

Scroll.--Work the even side of the scroll around the cross-bar lines with Filo Silk, White, 615. Shade 692.8 and 692.9 into the white, giving the same effect as the border. The shading is shown on Colored Plate XVIII, but the colors are different.

Flowers and Leaves.--Instructions given for working the flowers and leaves in Buttercup Design No. 607 E, page 39, and illustrated by Colored Plate XVI, apply equally well to this pattern. (Not Difficult.)

_Violet Design No. 611 B._

ROCOCO BORDER.

COLORED PLATE XVIII.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 615, 644.6, 644.7, 644.8; 1 skein each 505, 645, 725, 727, 728, 729, 781, 782, 783. Corticelli Persian Floss, 5 skeins, 615. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 22 inch size. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615, in buttonhole stitch long and short to the inside line. Shade into the white one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, 644.6, making an even line or finish on the narrow part of the scallop. Shade the points in the border with a few stitches of 644.7 and 644.8, thus giving them a darker effect. See Colored Plate XVIII.

Four Corners in Border.--Work the cross-bar in outline stitch with one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, 644.8. Make a cross stitch with 645 where the lines intersect. Stuff the two jewels with cotton, or, better still, Corticelli Persian Floss, to raise the work, and then work over in satin stitch with Filo, 644.7, and outline with the same shade. (See Jewel Design No. 50, for directions for working jewels.)

Scroll.--Work the even side of the scroll around the cross-bar lines with Filo Silk, White, 615. Shade 644.7 and 644.8 into the white, giving the same effect as the border. See Colored Plate XVIII.

Flowers.--Begin the edge of the petals with 725, shading darker to the center with 727, 728, 729. Make some petals darker by omitting 725 and 727. In the center of the open flowers work a stitch in Yellow, 505. Work the calyx solid with Green, 782.

Leaves.--Begin the edge in Green, 781, shading to the center with 782. Vein and stem with 783. (Not Difficult.)

_=Violet Design No. 612 A.=_

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 4 skeins 615; 3 skeins 645; 2 skeins each 644.6, 727, 728, 729; 1 skein 505, 725, 781, 782, 783. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

This design is square, the edges are doubled under and securely sewed with silk. For this reason only a small quantity of silk is required for working, as none is used for the edge.

Border.--Outline the scroll in each corner with Corticelli Filo Silk, 645. Work the scallop inside the scroll with Filo Silk, White, 615, to the depth of half an inch. Shade into the white, Lemon, 644.6, leaving a long and short effect on the inside of the scallop. Fill the space between the outside scroll and the scallop with fine seed stitches with 645. Work the scroll inside of stitching solid with 645 in satin stitch. See Colored Plate XX.

Flowers.--Begin the edge of the petals in 725, shading darker to the center with 727, 728, 729. Make some petals darker by omitting 725 and 727. In the center of open flowers work a stitch of Yellow, 505. Work the calyx solid in Green, 782.

Leaves.--Begin the edge in 781; shade to center with 782. Vein and stem with 783. (Easy.)

_=Carnation Design No. 612 B.=_

COLORED PLATE XIX.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 4 skeins 615; 3 skeins 645; 2 skeins each 636, 637, 638, 639, 644.6, 780; 1 skein each 655.7, 781, 782, 783. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

This design is square, the edges are doubled under and securely sewed with silk.

Border--Use same instructions as given for working border of Daisy Design 612 D. See below.

Flowers.--Begin the edge of the petals with 639, shading lighter to the calyx with 638, 637, 636, 655.7. Make some petals light and others dark. In the full flower it is better to make the back petals lighter and those in the foreground darker. See Colored Plate XIX. Work that part of the calyx near the petals with Green, 780, 781, and the bottom with 782.

Leaves.--Work solid, using 780 for the points and shading gradually darker with 781, 782. Use 783 for the stems. (Not Difficult.)

_Daisy Design No. 612 D._

COLORED PLATE XX.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 7 skeins 615; 3 skeins 645; 2 skeins 644.6, 1 skein each 503, 505, 582, 661, 662, 692.8, 753, 754. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

This design is square, the edges are doubled under and securely sewed with silk.

Border.--Outline the scroll in each corner with Corticelli Filo Silk, 645. Work the scallop inside the scroll with White, 615, to the depth of half an inch. Into the white shade 644.6, leaving a long and short effect on the inside of the scallop. Fill the space between the outside scroll and the scallop with fine seed stitches made with 645. Work the scroll inside of stitching solid in satin stitch with 645. See Colored Plate XX.

Flowers.--Begin the points of the petals with White, 615, shading to the center with Green, 692.8, 661, and 662. Fill the centers with French knots in Yellow, 503 and 505. See Colored Plate XX. Work the buds in 692.8 and 661. (These small buds are darker than open flowers.) In the large buds use some white also. Work the calyx with Green, 754.

Leaves.--Begin the points with Green, 753, shading gradually darker with 754 to the center. Use 582 for the stems and veins. (Easy.)

_Wild Rose Design No. 612 E._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 3 skeins each 638, 639, 645; 2 skeins each 644.6, 655.8, 655.9, 781, 782; 1 skein each 504, 615, 780, 783, 784. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

This design is square, the edges are doubled under and securely sewed. No silk is therefore required for buttonholing the edge.

Border.--Use same instructions as given for working Border of Daisy Design 612 D, page 49.

Flowers.--Begin the edge with 639 and shade lighter to center with 638, 655.9, 655.8. Make some petals lighter and some flowers lighter than others. Vary the shading. In the center of the open flower work a few stitches of Green, 780, and irregularly around these stitches make French knots in Yellow, 504. A study of Colored Plate IX will assist one in shading this design.

Leaves.--Work solid. Begin the edge with Green, 780, shading gradually darker to the center with 781, 782, 783. Vary the shading. Make the leaves under the flowers much darker. Use but a little of 780 and only on tips. Work the veins and stems with Green, 784. (Easy.)

_Apple Blossom Design No. 612 F._

COLORED PLATE XXI.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 4 skeins 615; 3 skeins 645; 2 skeins each 636, 637, 644.6, 655.7, 655.8, 781, 782; 1 skein each 527, 616, 755, 783, 852. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

This design is square, the edges are doubled under and securely sewed with silk. For this reason only a small quantity of silk is required for working, as none is used for buttonholing the edge.

Border.--Use same instructions as given for working border of Daisy Design 612 D, page 49.

Flowers.--Begin the edge of the petals with 636, shading lighter to the center with 655.8, 655.7, 616. Make some petals lighter by omitting 636 and use 615 in place of 616 toward the center. Vary the shading by making some flowers almost white. In each petal make two or three stamens with Green, 781, and place a small French knot of 645 at the end of each stamen. See Colored Plate XXI.

Buds and Calyx.--Begin the edge of the petals with 637, shading lighter to the base with 636. Work all the buds darker than the flowers. Work the calyx in Green, 782.

Leaves.--Work solid. Use Green, 781, for the points, shading gradually darker to the center with 782, 783, 755, with a touch of 852 near the base and midvein. Vary the shading as usual. Work the stems solid with 755, 852, 527, using most of 527. (Not Difficult.)

_Violet Design No. 613 A._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 506, 725, 727, 728, 729, 781, 782, 783. Corticelli Persian Floss, 1 skein 615. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9 and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

These octagon shaped patterns require no buttonhole work on the edges, as the linen is folded under and securely sewed as shown by the illustration. The effect is quite novel, and as the designs are simple only a small quantity of silk is needed to work the pattern.

Flowers.--Work solid. Use Corticelli Filo Silk, Violet, 725, for the edge of the petals, shading darker toward the center with 727, 728, 729. Make the three lower petals lighter than the upper two. In the center of the open flowers work a few stitches of Yellow, 506, and a stitch of Green, 781, on each side of the yellow. Work the buds with 729, 728, and 727. Work the calyx solid with 781 and 782, the darker shade nearest the stem.

Leaves.--Work solid, using 781 for the edge and shading darker to the center with 782. Work the veins and stems in 783. The slit in corner, or the line across the ends of the stems, work in fine buttonhole stitch with Persian Floss, White, 615. (Easy.)

_Buttercup Design No. 613 B._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 503, 504, 505, 506, 507, 754, 781, 782. Corticelli Persian Floss, 1 skein 615. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9 and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

These octagon shaped patterns require no buttonhole work on the edges, as the linen is folded under and securely sewed as shown by the illustration. The effect is quite novel, and as the designs are simple only a small quantity of silk is needed to work the pattern.

Flowers and Leaves.--Instructions for working this design are the same as given for Buttercup Design No. 607 E, page 39, and illustrated by Colored Plate XVI. (Easy.)

_Daisy Design No. 613 D._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins 615; 1 skein each 503, 505, 582, 661, 662, 692.8, 753, 754. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9 and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

These octagon shaped patterns require no buttonhole work on the edges, as the linen is folded under and securely sewed as shown by the illustration. The effect is quite novel, and as the designs are simple only a small quantity of silk is needed to work the pattern.

Flowers and Leaves.--Instructions for working this design are the same as given for Daisy Design, 612 D, page 49, and illustrated by Colored Plate XXI, although of course the rules for working the border do not apply to this design. (Easy.)

_Forget-me-not Design No. 613 E._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 504, 518, 519, 520, 678, 781, 782, 783. Corticelli Persian Floss, 1 skein 615. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9 and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

These octagon shaped patterns require no buttonhole work on the edges, as the linen is folded under and securely sewed as shown by the illustration.

Flowers.--Work solid. Make the petals in Corticelli Filo Silk, Blue, 518, 519, 520. Vary the shading by making one or more petals in some of the flowers of a lighter shade. Tip some of the petals with a touch of Pink, 678. Put a French knot in Yellow, 504, in the center of the open flowers. Make some of the buds in Pink, 678, and others in Blue, 519.

Leaves.--Work solid, using Green, 781, for the points, shading gradually darker to the stem with 782, 783. Make some leaves lighter than others. Work the stems in 783. The slit in corner, or the line across the ends of the stems, work in fine buttonhole stitch with Persian Floss, White, 615. (Easy.)

_Chrysanthemum Design No. 613 F._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 502, 503, 504, 505, 507, 716, 717, 718, 719, 781, 782, 783, 784. Corticelli Persian Floss, 1 skein 615. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9 and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

Red Flowers.--Work the points of the petals in the background in Corticelli Filo Silk, 719, shading lighter to the base with 718, 717. Work the points of the petals in the foreground with 719, shading lighter with 718, 717, 716. The petals that droop in the foreground make lighter by omitting 719.

Yellow Flowers.--Work the points in the petals with Yellow, 507, shading lighter with 505, 504, 503, 502. Change the shading in different petals by using either lighter or darker shades of silk. The petals that are on top make light, using the lightest shades toward the center of the upper petals. Use your taste in arranging the colors. You can work red and yellow flowers in one spray, or make each spray different, either way will be pretty. Use Green, 782, 783, for the calyx.

Leaves.--Work the points with Green, 781, shading to the stem with 782, 783. Use 784 for the stems. (Not Difficult.)

_Purple Clematis Centerpiece Design No. 56._

AND SET OF 4 DOILIES, NO. 56A, 56B, 56C, AND 56D.

COLORED PLATE XXII.

BY ELIZABETH MOORE HALLOWELL.

_Materials_--22 inch Centerpiece: Corticelli Filo Silk, 4 skeins 785; 3 skeins 784; 2 skeins each 725, 726, 727, 728, 729, 783; 1 skein each 621, 622, 779.5, 780, 781, 782. Corticelli Persian Floss, 8 skeins 615. Smaller pieces take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 22 and 27 inch sizes. They can also furnish stamped linen, 9 inch square, of the set of four doily designs (Nos. 56A, B, C, D), to match this centerpiece. See page 92.

One can always do better embroidery, as is the case in all branches of art, if thoroughly familiar with one's subject; then the mind, which is really the source of intelligent work, can act through the pencil, the pen, or the needle, and give to the result the added touch of knowledge at first hand. Therefore, if possible, before working this design secure a spray of the real clematis, choosing the variety known as _Clematis Jackmanni_, which is probably one of the best known.

The Purple Clematis blossoms in June, July, or August, according to the climate, but it can be secured from florists during other months. Notice that the flowers often have four petals, and nearly as often _five_. This is a marked peculiarity of the plant. Observe also the buds and sprays of leaves, starting from the axils of the branches; the curling tendency of the stems, by which tendril-like quality the plant climbs. Sometimes the leaves will drop off from these stems, leaving occasionally what looks like a real tendril, but what is in reality the leaf-stem.

This centerpiece may be worked in heavy outline, which produces a very decorative effect with less labor, but this is not recommended, the design being of a large and handsome flower, which calls for stronger and more lasting treatment, and the instructions given therefore are for solid embroidery, in long and short stitch. (See article on Stitches--"Feather Stitch.") While purple is the usual color of the flower, it is sometimes very pale lavender, but for a decorative design merely, the flowers might be worked in white with greenish shadings.

Flowers.--Begin the edge of petals with Purple, 729, shading gradually lighter toward the base of the petal, using 728, 727, 726, 725. The lightest shades should come into a vein in the center of the petal. For the under side, or turned over parts, of the petals use 725 and 726. The contrast between the color of upper and under sides is very marked. Work the pistil solid, using 781 for the upper and 782 for the lower half. See Colored Plate XXII.

Centers.--Outline the stamens with Green, 780, 781. Make the outer stamens, which are heavier than those inside and somewhat irregular, with a double thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, and the inner stamens with a single thread. At the point of each stamen make a French knot with Purple, 729. Use 780 and 781 also for the center from which the petals have dropped. Work the buds solid, in 725, 726. At the base of each shade into the stem a few stitches of 780.

Leaves.--Work solid in long and short stitch, with 779.5, 780, 781, 782, 783, 784, 785, being careful to slant the stitches in the same direction as the veins, that is, from the edge in toward the central vein, but sloping toward the base of the leaf. Shade from light on the edge to dark near the midvein, See Colored Plate XXII. The leaves are large and many shades can be used with advantage. Work some of the smaller leaves in lighter shades than the large leaves at the bottom of the spray. The veins in the leaves should not be indicated too distinctly. They are shown with clearness in the illustration so that the correct direction may be easily followed. One shade lighter than the darkest shade used in the leaf will be correct for the veins. For the turned over parts of leaves use 780 or 781.

Stems.--Work solid in 783, 784, 785, and where the stems are largest use a little Reddish Brown, 621, 622. The stems from buds, also the tendrils, should be made in 782, 783, 784.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615, or if desired use Light Green Persian Floss, 780. If fringe is wanted buy the 27 inch square of stamped linen, buttonhole the edge very fine and even all around with Corticelli Etching Silk. Then fringe the linen to the buttonhole edge, comb out the threads evenly and trim to any length wanted. (Not Difficult.)

_Purple Clematis Doily Designs Nos. 56A, 56B, 56C, and 56D._

Three of these doilies are designed so that the decoration will show even should a tumbler or a finger bowl be placed upon them, and if six or a larger number of doilies are desired for a set, repeat these three patterns. In the fourth design, No. 56 A, the decoration is confined to the center of the doily, this being intended for a bread or cake covering, or for any purpose where a central decoration is most useful. The instructions given for the clematis centerpiece will be ample for working these doilies. (Not Difficult.)

_Violet Design No. 615 A._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 505, 661, 725, 727, 728, 729, 781, 782, 783, 784. Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 6, 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. In the three shell shaped scallops the stitches should be irregular on the inside. Now shade Corticelli Filo Silk, Green, 661, into the white (in these three shell shaped scallops), giving a long and short effect on the inside. See Colored Plate VI for method of working border.