Chapter III.

DRAWER AND DOOR PULLS.

Pulls generally consist of two parts, the handle and the plate to which the handle is fastened. Some pulls are stationary as in Figures 9, 10, while in others the handle swings from either one or two points, Figures 11, 12, 13. In this case the handle may be made by taking a rod as great in diameter as the thickest part of the handle, and either drawing it out by hammering or filing it down to the required taper. After it is tapered to the required size as at Figure 14, it is then bent into shape according to the design. If the handle is to swing from one or two points, it should be fastened by any one of the following methods.

Method 1. If it is possible to have the handle support go through the drawer or door, the support may be made from a piece of square rod of the length desired, a hole being drilled through one end, the size needed, as at Figure 15, A. A shoulder is then made by filing the rod down to the size of the hole in the plate. In making the shoulder the remainder of the rod which is to go through the drawer front may be left square or filed round; as the hole is round that is drilled to receive it, this last is the better way. It is also easier to fasten it on the inside of the drawer when it is made in this way, for it may be simply headed up as in making a rivet, Figure 15 B, or a thread may be cut and a nut used, Figure 15 C, D. The latter method is better where taps and dies are at hand. When it is fastened by riveting, a circular or square piece of metal called a washer, Figure 15 E, a little larger in diameter than the bolt, with a hole the size of the bolt, is placed next to the drawer front on the inside; this makes the riveting more secure.

Method 2. Another method for fastening this style of a handle is to cut a slot through the plate about 1/16 inch wide and length called for by the design, Figure 16 A. Then take a strip of copper in length 7 times the diameter of the handle end and as wide as the slot in the plate is long, Figure 16 B. This is then bent circular a little larger in diameter than the end of handle as at Figure 16 C, and placed in the slot as at Figure 16 D, and clinched on the back of the plate as at Figure 16 E. The plate is in this case fastened to the drawer or door by nailing or riveting.

Method 3. When it is desirable to make the plate and handle support all in one piece, it may be done in any one of three ways. First. By allowing enough metal in the center of the plate to form the handle support as at Figure 12. Second. By allowing metal at the top of the plate to bend over handle as at Figure 11. Third. By allowing metal at the sides to be turned up at right angles to the plate to form the support as at Figure 13. In this case holes are drilled in the side pieces and a rivet is put through from one side to the other to hold the handle. For this one the handle must be either bent around the rivet or drilled to receive the rivet. In all three of these cases the plate is fastened to the door or drawer by nailing or riveting.

HINGES.

Plate 13, Various outlines of the same hinge. Plate 14, Hinges of same outline with interior variations. Plates 15, 16, 17, Butt and Strap Hinges.

In a hinge, the joint is the important feature. The size of the hinge, the strength required, and the decoration must also receive attention. After these have been determined, a drawing should be made giving a development of the joint. Whatever the size of the hinge, the following principle in regard to the joint must be kept in mind. There must be alternating projections left on the inner ends of each leaf of the hinge to fit into one another so that the pin may pass through them and allow the hinge to swing. The method of making these projections is determined by the size of the hinge.

In hinges of any considerable size, the projections are left attached to the hinge proper; in allowing for them there will be an even number on one leaf and an odd number on the other. To obtain the strength desired, the width of the projections on one leaf should equal the width of the projections on the other leaf. This applies to any number of projections. Their length should be determined by the diameter of the joint, three times the diameter is the approximate length.

In making small hinges the projections may be bent into position by the use of the round nose plyers. In larger work the projection is fastened in the vise and beginning at the end is bent around the pin a little at a time using the raw-hide mallet to work it into shape.

For small joints or hinges, such as would be used on a match box, stamp box, bon-bon box, or ink pot, the joint should be made of small tubing as described on page 100. This tubing is sawed into the required lengths and soldered to the leaves to be hinged. The parts to receive the joint are sometimes filed out.