Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome
Chapter 20
_Lib. X. Halieus_
CHAP. I. DIFFERENT KINDS OF FISH. CHAP. II. MURENAS. CHAP. III. EEL.
The numbers of the chapters differ in the various texts.
I
[432] A SAUCE FINES HERBES FOR FRIED FISH _IUS DIABOTANON _[2]_ PRO _[3]_ PISCE FRIXO_
USE ANY KIND OF FISH. PREPARE [clean, salt, turn in flour] SALT [4] AND FRY IT. CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, AND RUE, ALL CRUSHED FINE, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, DATE WINE, HONEY, REDUCED MUST, OIL AND BROTH. POUR IN A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON FIRE, WHEN SIMMERING POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] This chapter principally deals with fish sauces. Apparently it is by a different author than Books I-VIII, which have many formulae for fish. While we have no direct proof, we are inclined to believe that Book X is a Roman version of a Greek treatise on fish sauces, a monograph, of which there existed many, according to Athenaeus, which specialized on the various departments of cookery.
[2] Tor. _Diabotom_ (in Greek characters); Greek, relating to herbs.
[3] Tor. G.-V. _in_.
[4] G.-V. _salsas_.
[433] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH _IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, SMALL ONIONS, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, A LITTLE OIL; HEAT THIS SAUCE, AND IF YOU WISH [it to be richer, add] RAISINS.
[434] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH _ALITER IN PISCE ELIXO_ [1]
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SATURY, ONION, [hard] BOILED YOLKS, RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, OIL AND BROTH.
[1] Tor. _frixo_--fried fish, although his heading reads _elixo_.
[435] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH _ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_
PREPARE THE FISH CAREFULLY; IN THE MORTAR PUT SALT, CORIANDER SEED, CRUSH AND MIX WELL; TURN THE FISH THEREIN, PUT IT IN A PAN, COVER IT AND SEAL IT WITH PLASTER [1] COOK IT IN THE OVEN. WHEN DONE RETIRE [the fish from the pan] SPRINKLE WITH STRONG VINEGAR AND SERVE.
[1] Remarkable culinary ingenuity, resembling in principle the North American Indian method of cooking whitefish wrapped in clay. Today we use flour and water made into a stiff paste to seal a pan hermetically if no "pressure cooker" is available.
This formula cannot be classified under "Sauce for Boiled Fish."
[436] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH _ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_
WHEN THE FISH IS PREPARED, PUT THE SAME IN A FLAT PAN WITH CORIANDER SEED, WATER AND GREEN DILL; WHEN COOKED SPRINKLE WITH VINEGAR AND SERVE [1].
[1] Another fair example of the incompleteness, on the one hand, of the directions, and of the superfluity, on the other hand, of words such as the initial and the closing words, which characterizes so many of the formulae. This is characteristic of ever so many culinary authors of all ages, who, lacking literary training, assume that the reader is thoroughly versed with the methods indicated. A versatile modern author would have said: "Poach the filleted fish in small water seasoned with coriander seed and green dill; sprinkle with vinegar before serving." He mentioned neither the salt nor the oil which he undoubtedly used.
[437] ALEXANDRINE [1] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH _IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_
PEPPER, DRY ONIONS [shallots] LOVAGE, CUMIN, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES [pounded in the mortar] FILLED UP [2] WITH VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, AND OIL, AND COOK IT.
[1] Alexandria, Egyptian city, at the mouth of the river Nile, third of the three great cities of antiquity excepting Carthage during Apicius' time a rival of Rome and Athens in splendor and commerce. Most important as a Mediterranean port, where fishing and fish eating was (and still is) good.
[2] G.-V. _mulsum_, mead.
[438] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH _ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SEEDLESS RAISINS, WINE, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, OIL, COOKED TOGETHER.
[439] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH _ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, OIL AND VINEGAR, AND COOK.
[440] SAUCE FOR BROILED CONGER _IUS IN CONGRO ASSO_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HARD YOLKS, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, AND COOK.
G.-V. _Gongo_.
[441] SAUCE FOR HORNED FISH [1] _IUS IN CORNUTAM_ [1]
PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONIONS, SEEDLESS RAISINS, WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; AND COOK IT [2]
[1] _Cornuta_, _cornutus_--"horned," "having horns"--an unidentified sea fish.
[2] Goll. collects all succeeding formulae for sauces into one.
[442] SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET _IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, HONEY, NUTS, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; HEAT AND POUR OVER [1].
[1] List. is of the opinion that this is fresh mullet, while salt mullet was treated in the preceding formulae.
[443] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET _ALITER IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS_
RUE, MINT, CORIANDER, FENNEL,--ALL OF THEM GREEN--PEPPER, LOVAGE, HONEY, BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL.
[444] SEASONING FOR BABY TUNNY _IUS IN PELAMYDE ASSA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, GREEN CORIANDER, ONION, SEEDLESS RAISINS [1], RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, OIL, AND COOK.
[1] Wanting in Tor.
[445]
THIS SAUCE IS ALSO SUITABLE FOR BOILED [tunny]; IF DESIRED ADD HONEY.
[446] SAUCE FOR PERCH _IUS IN PERCAM_ [1]
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, OIL, REDUCED MUST; COOK IT.
[1] _Perca_, perch--sea perch or sea bass.
[447] SEASONING FOR REDSNAPPER _CONDIMENTUM IN RUBELLIONEM_ [1]
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, WILD THYME, CELERY SEED, DRY ONIONS, WINE, RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; BIND WITH ROUX.
[1] _Rubellio_--a "reddish" fish; perhaps a species of the red-mullet or red-snapper. Hum. says the Latins called the fish _rubelliones_, _rubellos_ and _rubros_; the Greeks _erythrinos_ or _erythricos_, because of their reddish color. A fish, according to Athenaeus similar to the _pager_ or _pagrus_, _phager_ or _phagrus_, also called _pagur_, which is not quite identified.
II
[448] SAUCE FOR [BROILED] MURENA _IUS IN MURENA [ASSA]_ [1]
PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, SAFFRON [2], ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST AND OIL; COOK IT [3].
[1] V. doubting that this is broiled.
[2] Tor. _Crocomagma_; List. _crocum magnum_, still used today in some fish preparations, particularly in the Bouillabaisse.
[3] The laconic style in which all these fish preparations are given, is very confusing to the uninitiated. We assume that most of these ingredients were used to season the water in which to boil fish; or, to make a _court-bouillon_, a fish-essence of the bones and the trimmings of the fish, in which to poach the sliced fish. The liquor thus gained was reduced and in the moment of serving was bound with roux or with yolks, and the fish was masked with this sauce. The exceptions from this rule are, of course, in cases where the fish was broiled or fried.
[449] SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA _IUS IN MURENA ASSA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, [stoned] DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, OIL; COOK IT.
[450] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA _ALITER IUS IN MURENA ASSA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CATMINT [1] CORIANDER SEED, ONIONS, PINE NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT.
[1] _Nepeta montana_--nep.
[451] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA [1] _ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, DILL, CELERY SEED, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, PINE NUTS, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE [2] BROTH, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX.
[1] Ex Tac. and Tor.; wanting in List. and G.-V.
[2] Tac.; wanting in Tor.
[452] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA _ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED [1] CORIANDER, FIGDATES, MUSTARD, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED WINE.
[1] List., Sch., Dann. add here which is wanting in Tor. _rhus Syriacum_--Syrian Sumach.
The originals are considerably confused on the above and the following formulae.
[453] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA _ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, VINEGAR, CELERY SEED, SYRIAN SUMACH [1] FIGDATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD, AND REDUCED MUST. SERVE [2].
[1] See note to {Rx} No. 452.
[2] Ex Tor. It appears that this formula is a correction of {Rx} No. 452, as this is wanting in the other editions. Tor. also lacks the following formula.
In Tac. the above formula follows the next.
[454] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH _IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, A LITTLE OIL, WHEN BOILING, TIE WITH ROUX AND SERVE IN A SMALL SAUCE BOAT [1].
[1] _in lance_; _lanx_ may also mean a large oblong platter on which fish would be served. Cf. illustration Oval Dish with Handles.
Horace II Sat. 8--_in patina porrecta_--a special dish to hold the cooked _murena_ and to display it to advantage.
Such special dishes are found in any good table service, to serve special purposes. Not so long ago special forks and knives were used for fish service which have been gradually discarded.
[455] SAUCE FOR BOILED LACERTUS FISH _IUS IN LACERTOS ELIXOS_ [1]
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN RUE, ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; WHEN BOILING TIE WITH ROUX [2].
[1] _Lacertus_, an unidentified sea fish.
[2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} No. 448.
In G.-V. this formula precedes the above.
[456] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH _IUS IN PISCE ASSO_
A SAUCE FOR [this] BROILED FISH MAKE THUS [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, GREEN CORIANDER, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, OIL, REDUCED MUST; HEAT AND STIR WELL WITH A WHIP OF RUE BRANCHES, AND TIE WITH ROUX.
[1] Tor. wanting in others.
[457] SAUCE FOR TUNNY _IUS IN THYNNO_
TUNNY, BY MEANS OF THIS SAUCE WILL BE MORE PALATABLE: [1] PEPPER, CUMIN, THYME, CORIANDER, ONIONS, RAISINS, VINEGAR, HONEY, WINE, AND OIL; HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, AND SERVE FOR DINNER [2].
[1] and [2] first and last sentences from Tor., wanting in others.
[458] SAUCE FOR BOILED TUNNY _IUS IN THYNNO ELIXO_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, CRUSHED HERBS [1], ONIONS, FIG DATES [or fig wine] HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD AND TIE [2].
[1] _Condimenta mortaria_--herbs crushed in the "mortar"; also pulverized spices.
[2] "and tie" wanting in List. Leave it out, and you have an acceptable _vinaigrette_--a cold sauce for cold fish.
[459] SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH FISH _IUS IN DENTICE ASSO_ [1]
SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH [1] FISH IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, MINT, DRY RUE, COOKED QUINCES [3], HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL; HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX.
[1] _Dentex_; Hum. _dentex forma auratae similis, verum major_--the tooth-fish is similar to the dory in shape, though larger.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] _Malum Cydonicum._
[460] BOILED TOOTHFISH _IN DENTICE ELIXO_ [1]
PEPPER, DILL, CUMIN, THYME, MINT, GREEN RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX.
[1] Ex List.; wanting in Tor.
[461] SAUCE FOR DORY _IUS IN PISCE AURATA_ [1]
A SEASONING FOR DORY IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, ORIGANY, RUE BERRIES, MINT, MYRTLE BERRIES, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, VINEGAR, OIL, WINE, BROTH; HEAT AND USE IT SO.
[1] _Aurata_--the "golden" dory. Very esteemed fish. Martial, III, Ep. 90:
_Non omnis laudem preliumque aurate meretur: Sed cui solus erit concha Lucrina cibus_
[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.
[462] SAUCE FOR BROILED DORY. _IUS IN PISCE AURATA ASSA_
A SAUCE WHICH WILL MAKE BROILED DORY MORE TASTY CONSISTS OF [1] PEPPER, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, CELERY SEED, ONIONS, RAISINS, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH AND OIL.
[463] SAUCE FOR SEA SCORPION [1] _IUS IN SCORPIONE ELIXO_
PEPPER, CARRAWAY, PARSLEY, FIGDATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, OIL AND REDUCED WINE.
[1] Sea scorpion, boiled like shellfish, with the above ingredients; the cold meat is separated from the shell and is eaten with _vinaigrette_ sauce.
[464] WINE SAUCE FOR FISH _IN PISCE {OE}NOGARUM_
CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, AND HONEY; MIX IN RAISIN WINE, BROTH, REDUCED WINE; HEAT ON A VERY SLOW FIRE.
[465] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_
THE ABOVE, WHEN BOILING, MAY BE TIED WITH ROUX.
III
EEL
[466] SAUCE FOR EEL _IUS IN ANGUILLAM_
EEL WILL BE MADE MORE PALATABLE BY A SAUCE WHICH HAS [1] PEPPER, CELERY SEED, LOVAGE [2], ANISE, SYRIAN SUMACH [3], FIGDATE WINE [4], HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD, REDUCED MUST.
[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[2] Note the position of lovage in this formula. Usually it follows pepper. We have finally accounted for this peculiarity. Torinus, throughout the original, treats "pepper" and "lovage" as one spice, whereas we have kept the two separate. He believed it to be a certain kind of pepper--_piper Ligusticum_. _Piper_, as a matter of fact, stands for pepper, and _Ligusticum_ is the herb, Lovage, an umbelliferous plant, also called _Levisticum_. The fact that the two words are here separated plainly shows that Torinus has been in the dark about this matter almost to the end.
One wonders why he did not change or correct this error in the preceding books. His marginal errata prove that his work was being printed as he wrote it, or furnished copy therefor--namely in installments. Since the printer's type was limited, each sheet was printed in the complete edition, and the type was then used over again for the next sheet.
[3] Tor. _thun_.
[4] Wanting in Tor.
[467] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR EEL _ALITER IUS IN ANGUILLAM_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, SYRIAN SUMACH, DRY MINT, RUE BERRIES, HARD YOLKS, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT.
END OF BOOK X THE LAST OF THE BOOKS OF APICIUS
_CELII APITII HALIEUS LIBER DECIMUS & ULTIMUS. EXPLICIT_ [Tac.]
{Illustration: CANTHARUS, WINE BOWL OR CUP
With elaborate ornamentation: Over a sacred fountain the walls of a theatre, with emblems of a theatrical nature and garlands of flowers and fruits, wine skins, tyrsus, torches, masks and musical instruments. Hildesheim Treasure.}
{Illustration: OPENING CHAPTER, BOOK I, VENICE, 1503
From the Lancilotus edition, printed by Tacuinus in Venice in 1503. Identical with the two previous editions except for very minor variants. The rubrication is not completed here. Fine initials were painted in the vacant spaces by hand; the small letter in the center of the square being the cue for the rubricator. This practice, a remnant from the manuscript books, was very soon abandoned after the printing of books became commercialized.}
{Transcription:
Laseratum Oxyporum Oxygarum digestibile Oenogarum in tubera Hypotrima Mortaria
¶ Ciminatum in ostrea de conchiliis.
Apicii Celii epimeles Incipit liber primus conditum paradoxum.
Conditi Paradoxi compositio: mellis partes. xv. in aeneum uas mittuntur in praemissis inde sextariis duobus ut in cocturam mellis uinum decoques. quod igni lento: & aridis lignis calefactum comotum ferula dum coquitur. Si efferuere c{oe}perit uini rore compescitur preter quod subtracto igni in se redit. cum perfrixerit rursus accenditur Hoc secundo ac tertio fiet ac tum demum remotum a foco postridie despumatur cum piperis unciis iiii. iam triti masticis scrupulo. iii. folii & croci dragmae singulae. dactilorum ossibus torridis quinque hisdem dactilis uino mollitis intercedente prius suffusione uini de suo modo ac numero: ut tritura lenis habeatur: his omnibus paratis supermittes uini lenis sextaria. xviii. carbones perfecto addere duo milia.
¶ Conditum meliromum.
Ulatorum conditum meliromum perpetuum quod subministratur per uiam peregrinanti. pp tritum cum melle despumato in cupellam mittis conditi loco. & ad mouendum quantum sit bibendum tantum aut mellis proferas: aut uinum inferas: sed suaserit non nihil uini meliromo mittas adiiciendum propter exitum solutiorem.
¶ Absynthium romanum.
Absynthium romanum sic facies. Conditi camerini praeceptis utique pro absynthio cessante: in cuius uicem absynthi ponthici purgati terembitique unciam thebaicam dabis. masticis folii. iii. scrupulos senos. croci scrupulos. iii. uini eiusmodi sextarios. xviii. carbones amaritudo non exigit.}
THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS
{Illustration: BREVIS PIMENTORUM
Manuscript of the 8th Century. From the Codex Salmasianus, Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius.}
{Transcription:
BREVIS PIMENTORUM QUAE IN DOMO ESSE DEBEANT UT CONDIMENTIS NIHIL DESIT;
crocum, piper, zingiber, lasar, folium, baca murrae, costum, cariofilum, spica indica, addena, cardamomum, spica nardi. De seminibus hoc. dapaber, semen rudae, baca rutae, baca lauri, semen aneti, semen api, semen feniculi, semen ligustici, semen erucae, semen coriandri, cuminum anesum, petro silenum, careum, sisama
Apici excerpta. a Vinidario vir intut
De siccis hoc lasaris radices, menta, nepeta, saluia, cuppressum, oricanum, zyniperum, cepa gentima, bacas timmi, coriandrum, piretrum, citri fastinaca, cepa ascalonia, radices iunci, anet puleium, ciperum alium, ospera, samsucum, innula, silpium, cardamomum.
De liquoribus hoc. mel, defritum, carinum, apiperium, passum.
De nucleis hoc. nuces maiores nuclos pineos ac midula aballana.
De pomis siccis hoc. damascena, datilos, uva, passa, granata. haec omnia in loco sicco pone ne odorem et virtutem perdant. Brevis cyborum. caccabina minore. ii. caccabina fusile. iii. ofellas garatas. iiii. ofellas assas. v. aliter ofellas. vi. ofellas graton. vii. pisces, scorpiones}
{Illustration: CACCABUS
Stewpot, marmite, or kettle. With a ring base. The cover fits over the mouth. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74813; Field M., 24172.}
THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS THE ILLUSTRIOUS MAN
_Apici Excerpta A Vinidario Viro Inlustri_
FIFTH CENTURY
Vinidarius, a Goth, of noble birth or a scientist, living in Italy. Vinithaharjis is the native name. Of his time and life very little is known. It appears that he was a student of Apicius and that he made certain excerpts from that book which are preserved in the uncial codex of Salmasius, saec. VIII, Paris, lat. 10318.
Vollmer in his Apicius commentary says that Salmasius and his predecessors have accepted them as genuine. Schuch incorporated these recipes in the Apicius text of his editions, in appropriate places, as he thought. This course cannot be recommended, although the recipes should form an integral part of any Apicius edition.
M. Ihm, who faithfully reprinted the excerpta in the Archiv f. lat. Lex. XV, 64, ff. says distinctly: "These excerpts have nothing to do with the ten books of Apicius, even if some recipes resemble each other ..." and other researchers have expressed the same opinion. Vollmer, however, does not share this view.
If I may be permitted to concur with Vollmer, I would say that the excerpts are quite Apician in character, and that in a sense they fill certain gaps in the Apicius text, although the language is strongly vulgarized which may be readily expected to be the case in the age of Vinidarius.
The recipes of Anthimus, written around A.D. 511 also confirm the close relation existing between Vinidarius and Apicius. Anthimus was the Greek physician to Theodoric I, (The Great), Frankish king living in Italy. He was not acquainted with Apicius.
SUMMARY OF SPICES _BREVIS PIMENTORUM_ [1]
WHICH SHOULD BE IN THE HOUSE ON HAND SO THAT THERE MAY BE NOTHING WANTING [in the line of condiments]: SAFFRON, PEPPER, GINGER, LASER, LEAVES [laurel-bay-nard], MYRTLE BERRIES, COSTMARY, CHERVIL [2], INDIAN SPIKENARD, ADDENA [3], CARDAMOM, SPIKENARD.
[1] _Pigmentorum_--_specierum_--spices. The old _pigmentum_ is really any coloring matter; the word, corrupted to pimento and pimiento is now used for sweet red pepper and also for allspice.
[2] _Cariofilu_--_caerefolium_--_Chaerephyllon_; Fr. _Cerfeuille_; Ger. _Kerbel_. This should be among the herbs.
[3] Not identified.
OF SEEDS [to be on hand] _DE SEMINIBUS HOC_
POPPY SEED, RUE SEED, RUE BERRIES, LAUREL BERRIES, ANISE SEED, CELERY SEED, FENNEL SEED, LOVAGE SEED, ROCKET SEED, CORIANDER SEED, CUMIN, DILL, PARSLEY SEED, CARRAWAY SEED, SESAM.
OF DRIED [herbs, etc., to be on hand] _DE SICCIS HOC_
LASER ROOT, MINT, CATNIP, SAGE, CYPRESS, ORIGANY, JUNIPER, SHALLOTS, BACAS TIMMI [1], CORIANDER, SPANISH CAMOMILE, CITRON, PARSNIPS, ASCALONIAN SHALLOTS, BULL RUSH ROOTS, DILL, FLEABANE, CYPRIAN RUSH, GARLIC, LEGUMES [2], MARJORAM [3], INNULA [4] SILPHIUM, CARDAMOM.
[1] Not identified. Perhaps the seed of thyme, though the word _bacas_ would be out of place there.
[2] _Ospera_, i.e., _Osperios_.
[3] _Samsucu_, i.e., _sampsuchum_ Elderberries?
[4] Not identified; perhaps _laurus innubus_, dried virgin laurel leaves.
OF LIQUIDS [to be on hand] _DE LIQUORIBUS HOC_
HONEY, REDUCED MUST, REDUCED WINE, APIPERIU [1] RAISIN WINE.
[1] Not identified. We take it to be honey mead, or some other honey preparation, maybe, _piperatum_, pepper sauce.
OF NUTS [to be on hand] _DE NUCLEIS HOC_
LARGER NUTS, PINE NUTS, ALMONDS [1] HAZELNUTS [filberts] [2].
[1] _Acmidula_, i.e., _amygdala_.
[2] _Aballana_--_abellana_--_abellinae_--_avellana_; Fr. _avelline_.
OF DRIED FRUITS [to be on hand] _DE POMIS SICCIS HOC_
DAMASCUS PRUNES, DATES, RAISINS, POMEGRANATES.
ALL OF THESE THINGS STORE IN A DRY PLACE SO THAT THEY MAY LOSE NEITHER FLAVOR NOR [other] VIRTUES.
SUMMARY OF DISHES [1] _BREUIS CYBORV_ [1]
I. CASSEROLE OF VEGETABLES AND CHICKEN _CACCABINA MINORE_ II. STUFFED CHARTREUSE _CACCABINA FUSILE_ III. BRAISED CUTLETS _OFELLAS GARATAS_ IV. ROAST MEAT BALLS _OFELLAS ASSAS_ V. GLAZED CUTLETS _ALITER OFELLAS_ VI. MEAT BALLS WITH LASER _OFELLAS GRATON_ VII. SEA SCORPION WITH TURNIPS _PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATAS_ VIII. ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED _PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSCUMQUE GENERIS_ IX. FRIED FISH _ITEM PISCES FRIXOS_ X. ROAST [Grilled] FISH _PISCES ASSOS_ XI. FRIED FISH AND WINE SAUCE _PISCES INOTOGONON_ XII. SARDINES, BABY TUNNY, WHITING _SARDAS_ XIII. FISH STEWED IN WINE _ITEM PISCES INOTOGONON_ XIV. STEWED MULLET WITH DILL _MULLOS ANETATOS_ XV. MULLET, DIFFERENT STYLE _ALITER MULLOS_ XVI. MURENA AND EEL _MURENAS ET ANGUILLAS_ XVII. SPINY LOBSTER AND SQUILL _LUCUSTAS ET ISQUILLAS_ XVIII. BOILED FISH _PISCES ELIXOS_ XIX. A DISH OF SOLE AND EGGS _PATINAS OBORUM_ XX. SUCKLING PIG, CORIANDER SAUCE _PORCELLO CORIANDRATU_ XXI. SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE _PORCELLO IN OCCUCTU_ XXII. PORK, PAN GRAVY _PORCELLO EO IURE_ XXIII. PORK SPRINKLED WITH THYME _PORCELLO TYMMO CRAPSU_ XXIV. PICKLED PORK _PORCELLU EXOZOME_ XXV. LASER [sauce for] PORK _PORCELLU LASARATU_ XXVI. SAUCE FOR PORK _PORCELLU IUSCELLU_ XXVII. PLAIN LAMB _AGNU SIMPLICE_ XXVIII. KID AND LASER _HEDU LASARATU_ XXIX. THRUSH, HEALTH STYLE _TURDOS APONTOMENUS_ XXX. TURTLEDOVES _TURTURES_ XXXI. SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE _IUS IN PERDICES_
[1] _Brevis cyboru_ could be nicely and appropriately rendered with "Menu,"--something minute, short,--but this list is not a menu in our modern sense. It is an enumeration of recipe names, a summary of dishes contained in the excerpts.
There is considerable variation in the spelling of the names here and in the following. Syllables ending with "u" are invariably abbreviations of "um."
I
[468] A CASSEROLE [1] OF VEGETABLE AND CHICKEN _CACCABINAM MINOREM_
ARRANGE DIFFERENT KINDS OF COOKED VEGETABLES IN A CASSEROLE WITH [cooked] CHICKEN INTERSPERSED, IF YOU LIKE; SEASON WITH BROTH AND OIL, SET TO BOIL. NEXT CRUSH A LITTLE PEPPER AND LEAVES, AND MIX AN EGG IN WITH THE DRESSING [add this to the vegetables] PRESS [into the casserole, eliminating the juice] [2].
[1] The dish resembles a chartreuse.
[2] Juice should be extracted before the addition of the egg, if the dish is to be unmoulded.
Ia
[469] THE SAME, WITH ANOTHER DRESSING, A CABBAGE _CHARTREUSE_ _ALIAS: TRITURA UNDE PERFUNDES CACCABINAM_
CRUSH WHATEVER QUANTITY OF LEAVES IS REQUIRED WITH CHERVIL AND ONE AND A QUARTER PART OF LAUREL BERRIES, A MEDIUM-SIZED BOILED CABBAGE, CORIANDER LEAVES, DISSOLVE WITH ITS OWN JUICE, STEAM IN THE HOT ASHES, BUT FIRST PLACE IN A MOULD [when stiff unmould on a platter] DECORATE, POUR UNDER A WELL-SEASONED SAUCE, AND SO SERVE [1].
[1] Either the vegetables and chicken of {Rx} No. 468 are combined with this dressing or a puree of the above cabbage, etc., is made, which will make this an integral dish. The instructions are vague enough to leave room for this choice; but there can be no doubt but what we have here a formula for a vegetable puree or a pudding, a genuine "Chartreuse," such as were prepared in the fancy moulds so popular in old Rome. The "Chartreuse," then, is not original with the vegetarian monks of the monastery by that name, the Carthusians.
II
[470] A STUFFED CHARTREUSE _CACCABINAM _[1]_ FUSILEM_
[Take cooked] MALLOWS, LEEKS, BEETS, OR COOKED CABBAGE SPROUTS [shoots or tender strunks] THRUSHES [roast] AND QUENELLES OF CHICKEN, TIDBITS OF PORK OR SQUAB CHICKEN AND OTHER SIMILAR SHREDS OF FINE MEATS THAT MAY BE AVAILABLE; ARRANGE EVERYTHING ALTERNATELY IN LAYERS [in a mould or in a casserole]. CRUSH PEPPER AND LOVAGE WITH 2 PARTS OF OLD WINE, 1 PART BROTH, 1 PART HONEY AND A LITTLE OIL. TASTE IT; AND WHEN WELL MIXED AND IN DUE PROPORTIONS PUT IN A SAUCE PAN AND ALLOW TO HEAT MODERATELY; WHEN BOILING ADD A PINT OF MILK IN WHICH [about eight] EGGS HAVE BEEN DISSOLVED; [next] POUR [this spiced custard] OVER [the layers of vegetables and meats, heat slowly without allowing to boil] AND WHEN CONGEALED SERVE [either in the casserole, or carefully unmould the dish on a service platter] [2].
[1] It is interesting to note how the generic terms, _salacaccabia_ and _caccabina_ have degenerated here. In these formulas the terms have lost all resemblance to the former meaning, the original "salt meat boiled in a pot." Such changes are very often observed in the terminology of our modern kitchens, in every language. They make the definition of terms and the classification of subjects extremely difficult. They add much to the confusion among cooks and guests in public dining places and create misunderstandings that only an expert can explain.
[2] This dish affords an opportunity for a decorative scheme by the arrangement of the various vegetables and meats in a pleasing and artistic manner, utilizing the various colors and shapes of the bits of food as one would use pieces of stone in a mosaic. Of course, such a design can be appreciated only if the chartreuse is served unmoulded, i.e. if the cook succeeds in unmoulding it without damaging the structure.
III
[471] BRAISED CUTLETS _OFELLAS GARATAS_ [1]
PLACE THE MEAT IN A STEW PAN, ADD ONE POUND [2] OF BROTH, A LIKE QUANTITY OF OIL, A TRIFLE OF HONEY, AND THUS BRAISE [3].
[1] Derived from _garum_ or _{oe}nogarum_, the wine sauce. These are supposed to be meat balls or cutlets prepared with garum, but the _garum_ is not mentioned in the formula. This also illustrates the interesting etymology of the word. It is not recognized in every-day ancient language because it is a typical technical term, the much complained-of _lingua culinaria_. We find, therefore, that--at least in this instance--_garum_ no longer stands for a sauce made from the fish, _garus_, but that _garum_ has become a generic term for certain kinds of sauces. Danneil renders _garatus_ with _lasaratus_, which is clearly out of place.
[2] In this instance, and in several others, and also according to Sueton. Caes. fluids were weighed. What idea could be more practical, useful and more "modern" than this? Sheer commercial greed, stubbornness, indolence have thus far made futile all efforts towards more progressive methods in handling food stuffs, particularly in the weighing of them and in selling them by their weight. Present market methods are very chaotic, and are kept purposely so to the detriment of the buyer.
[3] The original: _et sic frigis_.--_Frigo_ is equivalent to frying, drying, parching; the word here has taken on a broader meaning, because the "frying" process is clearly out of question here. It appears that the terminology of _frigo_ and that of _asso_ in the next formula, has not been clearly defined. As a matter of fact, not many modern cooks today are able to give a clear definition of such terms as frying, broiling, roasting, braising, baking, which are thus subject to various interpretations.
IV
[472] ROAST MEAT BALLS _OFELLAS ASSAS_
MEATBALLS [previously saute], CAREFULLY PREPARED, ARRANGE IN A SHALLOW STEW PAN AND BRAISE THEM IN WINE SAUCE; AFTERWARDS SERVE THEM IN THE SAME SAUCE OR GRAVY, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER.
V
[473] GLAZED CUTLETS _ALITER OFELLAS_
THE MEAT PIECES ARE BRAISED [1] IN BROTH AND ARE GLAZED [2] WITH HOT HONEY [3] AND THUS SERVED.
[1] Cf. note 3 to Excerpta III.
[2] _unguantur._
[3] Dann. oil; G.-V. _melle_--_honey_. It is quite common to use honey for glazing foods. Today we sprinkle meats (ham) with sugar, exposing it to the open heat to melt it; the sugar thus forms a glaze or crust.
VI
[474] MEAT BALLS WITH LASER _OFELLAS GARATAS_ [1]
LASER, GINGER, CARDAMOM, AND A DASH OF BROTH; CRUSH THIS ALL, MIX WELL, AND COOK THE MEAT BALL THEREIN [2].
[1] Cf. Summary of Dishes, and note 1 to Excerpta III.
[2] Dann. adds cumin, due perhaps to the faulty reading of the sentence, _misces cum his omnibus tritis_, etc.
VII
[475] SEA-SCORPION WITH TURNIPS _PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATOS_ [1]
COOK [the fish] IN BROTH AND OIL, RETIRE WHEN HALF DONE: SOAK BOILED TURNIPS, CHOP VERY FINE AND SQUEEZE THEM IN YOUR HANDS SO THAT THEY HAVE NO MORE MOISTURE IN THEM; THEN COMBINE THEM WITH THE FISH AND LET THEM SIMMER WITH PLENTY OF OIL: AND WHILE THIS COOKS, CRUSH CUMIN, HALF OF THAT AMOUNT OF LAUREL BERRIES, AND, BECAUSE OF THE COLOR, ADD SAFFRON; BIND WITH RICE FLOUR TO GIVE IT THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY. ADD A DASH OF VINEGAR AND SERVE.
[1] _rapa_, _rapum_: white turnip, rape; "turniped."
VIII
[476] [Sauce for] ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED MAKE THUS: _PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSCUMQUE GENERIS_
CRUSH PEPPER, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, RUE, FIGDATES, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, OIL, BROTH, ADDING REDUCED MUST, ALL THIS PREPARE AND MIX CAREFULLY, PLACE IN SMALL CASSEROLE TO HEAT. WHEN THOROUGHLY HEATED, POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
IX
[477] [Sauce for] SAME FRIED FISH MAKE THUS: _ITEM PISCES FRIXOS_
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE [1], LAUREL BERRIES, CORIANDER, AND MOISTEN WITH HONEY, BROTH [2], WINE, RAISIN WINE, OR REDUCED SPICED WINE; COOK THIS ON A SLOW FIRE, BIND WITH RICE FLOUR AND SERVE.
[1] Sch. _ligisticum_.
[2] Wanting in Sch.
X
[478] [Sauce for] ROAST FISH [1] _PISCES ASSOS_
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, DRY ONIONS, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD FIGDATES, DILL, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED MUST; ALL THIS MIX THOROUGHLY AND UNDERLAY [the fish with it].
[1] The fish was probably broiled on the _craticula_ (see our illustration).
The nature of this sauce is not quite clear. If properly handled, it might turn out to be a highly seasoned mayonnaise, or a vinaigrette, depending on the mode of manipulation; either would be suitable for fried or broiled fish.
XI
[479] FISH AND WINE SAUCE _PISCES {OE}NOTEGANON_ [1]
FRY THE FISH; CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, GREEN HERBS, DRY ONIONS, ADD OIL [wine] BROTH AND SERVE.
[1] Ihm and G.-V. _{oe}noteganon_; _inotogono_ and in the Summary of Dishes _inotogonon_; Sch. _eleogaro_. Rather an obscure term, owing to the diversity of spelling. We would call it a dish stewed in or prepared with wine, although wine is absent in the present formula. However, it is given in XIII, which bears the same name.
Dann. is obviously mistaken in styling this preparation "oil broth."
XII
[480] [Cold Sauce for] SARDINES MAKE THUS: _SARDAS _[1]_ SIC FACIES_
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE SEED, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HARD BOILED YOLKS, VINEGAR, OIL; THIS MUST BE COMBINED INTO ONE [2] AND UNDERLAID.
[1] A kind of small tunny, which, like our herring, used to be pickled or salt, corresponding to the anchovy. A "sardine," from the island of Sardinia; _Sardus_, the inhabitant of Sardinia.
[2] The absence of detailed instructions as to the manipulation of the yolks, oil and vinegar is regrettable; upon them depends the certainty or uncertainty of whether the ancients had our modern mayonnaise.
XIII
[481] FISH STEWED IN WINE _PISCES {OE}NOTEGANON_ [1]
RAW FISH ANY KIND YOU PREFER, WASH [prepare, cut into handy size] ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN; ADD OIL, BROTH, VINEGAR, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND [fresh] CORIANDER, AND COOK: [Meanwhile] CRUSH PEPPER, ORIGANY, LOVAGE WITH THE BUNCHES OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER WHICH YOU HAVE COOKED [with the fish] AND POUR [this preparation] INTO THE SAUCE PAN. [When the fish is done, retire it and arrange the pieces in the serving dish, casserole, bowl or platter] BRING THE RESIDUE IN THE SAUCE PAN TO A BOILING POINT, ALLOW IT TO REDUCE SLOWLY TO THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY [Strain the sauce of the fish] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Cf. note to XI. This _{oe}noteganon_ resembles the _Bouillabaisse_, the famous Marseilles fish chowder. In addition to the above manner it is flavored with saffron. An excellent dish, especially with the judicious addition of onions, parsley, a suspicion of garlic and small sippets of toasted bread.
XIV
[482] MULLET STEWED WITH DILL MAKE THUS: _MULLOS ANETHATOS _[1]_ SIC FACIES_
PREPARE THE FISH [clean, wash, trim, cut into pieces] AND PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING OIL, BROTH, WINE, BUNCHES OF LEEKS, [fresh] CORIANDER, [fresh dill]; PLACE ON FIRE TO COOK. [Meanwhile] PUT PEPPER IN THE MORTAR, POUND IT, ADD OIL, AND ONE PART OF VINEGAR AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. [This preparation] TRANSFER INTO A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON THE FIRE TO HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, ADD TO THE FISH IN THE SAUCE PAN. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] From _anethus_--dill--which is omitted in formula. Sch. _anecatos_, i.e. _submersos_, because the original fails to state the dill in the formula. Such conjecture is not justified.
XV
[483] MULLET ANOTHER STYLE _ALITER MULLOS_
SCRAPE, WASH, PLACE [the fish] IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH, WINE AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND [fresh] CORIANDER TO THE MESS, SET ON THE FIRE TO COOK. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH SOME OF THE FISH'S OWN LIQUOR [from the sauce pan] ADD RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT IT INTO A POT AND ON THE FIRE TO HEAT; TIE WITH ROUX AND PRESENTLY ADD IT TO THE CONTENTS IN THE SAUCE PAN [1] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] It appears that the _patina_ mentioned in this and in the foregoing formula is either a finely wrought metal sauce pan or chafing dish, or a plainer _cumana_, an earthenware casserole; either of which may be used for service at the table.
It may be noticed how this manner of preparing fish has a tendency to preserve all the savory flavors and juices of the fish, a process in this respect both rational and economical.
XVI
[484] MURENA [1], EEL [2] OR MULLET MAKE THUS: _MURENAM AUT ANGUILLAS VEL MULLOS SIC FACIES_
CLEAN THE FISH AND CAREFULLY PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MINT, DRY ONIONS, CRUSH, MOISTEN WITH A SMALL GLASS OF WINE, HALF OF THAT OF BROTH, AND OF HONEY ONE THIRD PART, AND A MODERATE AMOUNT OF REDUCED MUST, SAY A SPOONFUL. IT IS NECESSARY THAT THE FISH BE ENTIRELY COVERED BY THIS LIQUOR SO THAT THERE MAY BE SUFFICIENT JUICE DURING THE COOKING.
[1] The ancients considered the murena one of the finest of fish; the best were brought from the straits of Sicily. Rich Romans kept them alive in their fish ponds, often large and elaborate marble basins called, _piscina_, fattened the fish, kept it ready for use. Pollio fattened murenas on human flesh, killing a slave on the slightest provocation and throwing the body into the fish pond; he would eat only the liver of such murenas. This is the only case of such cruelty on record, and it has often been cited and exaggerated.
[2] Perhaps the sea-eel, or conger, according to Dann. Also very much esteemed. The witty Plautus names a cook in one of his comedies "Congrio," because the fellow was "slippery."
XVII
[485] [Dressing for] SPINY LOBSTER (AND SQUILL) _LOCUSTAM (ET SCILLAM)_ [1]
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, POUR IN VINEGAR, BROTH, YOLKS OF [hard boiled] EGGS, MIX WELL TOGETHER [2] AND DRESS [the boiled shellfish meat with it] AND SERVE.
[1] Cf. Summary of Dishes.
[2] Another of Apicii hasty and laconic formulae. No indication as to how to use the ingredients named. According to our notion of eating, there is only one way: The shellfish is boiled in aromatic water, allowed to cool off; the meat is then taken out of the shells; the above named ingredients are combined in a manner of a mayonnaise or a vinaigrette, although the necessary oil is not mentioned here. The dressing is poured over the shellfish meat, and the result is a sort of salad or "cocktail" as we have today.
XVIII
[486] [Sauce] FOR BOILED FISH _IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS_
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, ORIGANY WHICH MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR; ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES [1] IN SUFFICIENT QUANTITY, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, MIX AND COMBINE PROPERLY AND BRING FORTH.
[1] Dann. is undecided as to whether this is dates or date wine; Goll. thinks it is mustard seed, which is not so bad gastronomically; but the original leaves no room for any doubt.
XIX
[487] A DISH OF SOLE WITH EGGS _PATINA SOLEARUM EX OVIS_
SCALE [skin] CLEAN [the soles], PLACE IN A [shallow] SAUCE PAN, ADD BROTH, OIL [white] WINE, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER SEED, PLACE ON FIRE TO COOK, GRIND A LITTLE PEPPER, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH THE FISH LIQUOR [from the sauce pan]. TAKE 10 RAW EGGS, BEAT THEM AND MIX WITH THE REMAINING LIQUOR; PUT IT ALL BACK OVER THE FISH, AND ON A SLOW FIRE ALLOW TO HEAT [without boiling] AND THICKEN TO THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [1].
[1] Very similar to _Sole au vin blanc_. Cf. {Rx} No. 155.
XX
[488] SUCKLING PIG, CORIANDER SAUCE _PORCELLUM CORIANDRATUM_
ROAST THE PIG CAREFULLY; MAKE THUS A MORTAR MIXTURE: POUND PEPPER, DILL, ORIGANY, GREEN CORIANDER, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST. ALL OF THIS WHEN HOT POUR OVER [the roast] SPRINKLE RAISINS, PINE NUTS AND CHOPPED ONIONS OVER AND SO SERVE.
XXI
[489] SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE _PORCELLUM AENOCOCTUM_ [1]
TAKE THE PIG, GARNISH [with a marinade of herbs, etc.] COOK [roast] IT WITH OIL AND BROTH. WHEN DONE, PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, RUE, LAUREL BERRIES, BROTH, RAISIN WINE OR REDUCED WINE, OLD WINE, CRUSH ALL, MIX AND PREPARE TO A POINT; DRESS THE PIG ON A SHOWY SERVICE [2] PLATTER AND SERVE.
[1] i.e. _{oe}nococtum_, cooked or prepared in wine sauce.
[2] Dann. is of the opinion that the pig is cooked in a copper vessel, because the instructions are to serve it _in patinam aheneam_.
XXII
[490] PIG, PAN GRAVY _PORCELLUM EO IURE_
ROAST THE PIG IN ITS OWN JUICE; [when done] RETIRE; BIND THE GRAVY WITH ROUX; [strain] PUT IN A SAUCE BOAT AND SERVE.
XXIII
[491] PIG SPRINKLED WITH THYME _PORCELLUM THYMO SPARSUM_
MILK-FED PIG, KILLED ON THE PREVIOUS DAY, BOIL WITH SALT AND DILL; TRANSFER IT INTO COLD WATER, CAREFULLY KEEPING IT SUBMERGED, TO PRESERVE ITS WHITENESS. THEREUPON [make a cold dressing of the following] GREEN SAVORY HERBS, [fresh] THYME, A LITTLE FLEABANE, HARD BOILED EGGS, ONIONS, [everything] CHOPPED FINE, SPRINKLE EVERYTHING [over the pig which has been taken out of the water and allowed to drip off] AND SEASON WITH A PINT OF BROTH, ONE MEASURE OF OIL, ONE OF RAISIN WINE, AND SO PRESENT IT [1].
[1] We would first mix the liquid components of this dressing with the chopped ingredients and then spread the finished dressing over the pig. Our author, no doubt, had this very process in mind.
XXIV
[492] PICKLED SUCKLING PIG _PORCELLUM OXYZOMUM_ [1]
GARNISH [prepare and marinate] THE PIG CORRECTLY AND PLACE IT IN A LIQUOR PREPARED AS FOLLOWS: PUT IN THE MORTAR 50 GRAINS OF PEPPER, AS MUCH HONEY [2] AS IS REQUIRED, 3 DRY ONIONS, A LITTLE GREEN OR DRY CORIANDER, A PINT OF BROTH, 1 SEXTARIUS OF OIL, 1 PINT OF WATER; [all this] PUT IN A STEW PAN [braisiere] PLACE THE PIG IN IT; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR THE GRAVY QUITE FREQUENTLY [3] SO AS TO THICKEN IT. SHOULD THE BROTH THUS BE REDUCED [by evaporation] ADD ANOTHER PINT OF WATER. IN THIS MANNER COOK [braise] THE PIG TO PERFECTION AND SERVE IT.
[1] _exodionum_, and in the Summary of Dishes, _exozome_, i.e. _oxyzomum_. It is curious to note the various spellings and meanings of _oxyzomum_. This is supposed to be a sour sauce or an acid preparation of some kind, yet this recipe does not mention acids. In fact, the presence of honey would make it a sweet preparation. We take it, the "garnish" contains the necessary vinegar or other acids such as lemon juice, wine, etc. _Oxyzomum_ is properly rendered "pickle."
[2] Dann. oil, occurring twice in his version.
[3] _saepius_; Dann. confusing _saepe_ with _caepa_, renders this "onions sauce." The same occurs to him in XXVII.
XXV
[493] PIG WITH LASER _PORCELLUM LASARATUM_
IN THE MORTAR POUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, A LITTLE CUMIN, LIVE LASER, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, PREPARED MUSTARD, FINISH WITH OIL TO TASTE, AND POUR OVER [the roast pig].
XXVI
[494] PIG IN SAUCE _PORCELLUM IUSCELLATUM_
IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, OR ANISE, CORIANDER, RUE, A LAUREL BERRY, POUND [all], MOISTENING WITH BROTH, [add] LEEKS, RAISIN WINE, OR A LITTLE HONEY, A LITTLE WINE, AND A LIKE AMOUNT OF OIL. WHEN THIS HAS BEEN COOKED TIE WITH ROUX.
XXVII
[495] PLAIN LAMB [1] _AGNUM SIMPLICEM_
OF THE SKINNED LAMB MAKE SMALL CUTLETS WHICH WASH CAREFULLY AND ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH, WINE, LEEKS, CORIANDER CUT WITH THE KNIFE; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR VERY FREQUENTLY [2] AND SERVE.
[1] Unquestionably the ancient equivalent for "Irish Stew."
[2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} 492, XXIV; the presence of onion, however, would do no harm here.
XXVIII
[496] KID WITH LASER _HAEDUM LASARATUM_
THE WELL-CLEANED GUTS OF A KID FILL WITH [a preparation of] PEPPER, BROTH, LASER, OIL [1], AND PUT THEM BACK INTO THE CARCASS WHICH SEW TIGHTLY AND THUS COOK [roast] THE KID [whole]. WHEN DONE PUT IN THE MORTAR RUE, LAUREL BERRIES, AND THEN SERVE THE KID WHICH MEANWHILE HAS BEEN RETIRED FROM THE POT WITH ITS OWN DRIPPINGS OR GRAVY.
[1] There being only liquids for this filling of the guts, a more solid substance, such as pork forcemeat, eggs, or cereals would be required to make an acceptable filling for the casings of the kid. Furthermore sausage, for such is this in fact, must be thoroughly cooked before it can be used for the filling of the carcass, as not sufficient heat would penetrate the interior during the roasting to cook any raw dressing.
XXIX
[497] THRUSH "A LA SANTE" _TURDOS HAPANTAMYNOS_ [1]
CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, LAUREL BERRY, MIX IN CUMIN [2] GARUM AND STUFF THE THRUSH [with this preparation, [3]] THROUGH THE THROAT [4], TYING THEM WITH A STRING. THEREUPON MAKE THIS PREPARATION IN WHICH THEY ARE COOKED: CONSISTING OF OIL, SALT, WATER [5], DILL AND HEADS OF LEEKS.
[1] Cf. Summary of Dishes; term not identified, derived from the Greek, meaning to drive away all stomach ills.
[2] We use juniper berries today instead of cumin.
[3] Cf. note to {Rx} 496, XXVIII.
[4] Thrush and other game birds of such small size are not emptied in the usual way: they are cooked with the entrails, or, the intestines are taken out, seasoned, saute, and are either put back into the carcasses, or are served separately on bread croutons. In this instance, the necessary seasoning is introduced through the throat, a most ingenious idea that can only occur to Apicius.
[5] In other instances we have pointed out where a small amount of water was used to clarify the oil used for frying foods. The presence here of water leads us to believe that the thrush were not "cooked," i.e. "boiled" but that they were fried in a generous amount of oil; this would make the ancient process remarkably similar to the present European way of preparing thrush or fieldfare, or similar game birds.
For water used to clarify oil see note 3 to {Rx} No. 250.
XXX
[498] TURTLEDOVES _TURTURES_
OPEN THEM, PREPARE [marinate] CAREFULLY; CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, A LITTLE BROTH, IMMERSE THE DOVES IN THIS PREPARATION SO THAT IT WILL BE ABSORBED BY THEM, AND THUS ROAST THEM.
XXXI
[499] SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE [1] _IUS IN PERDICES_
CRUSH IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CELERY, MINT, AND RUE; MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD FIGDATE [wine], HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; LET IT BOIL LIKEWISE AND SERVE.
[1] This formula evidently is a fragment.
END OF THE SUMMARY OF DISHES [of the Excerpts of Vinidarius]
_EXPLI [cit] BREUIS CIBORUM_
[END OF THE RECIPES OF APICIUS]
{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, AMSTERDAM, 1709
Lister's second edition was printed at Amsterdam, 1709, by very able printers, the Jansson-Waesbergs. It is a very worthy book in every respect which, as M. Graesse says in Tresor des livres rares et precieux, may be included in the collection of the Variorum.}
{Transcription:
APICII C{OE}LII DE OPSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS, Sive ARTE COQUINARIA, LIBRI DECEM. Cum Annotationibus MARTINI LISTER, e Medicis domesticis Serenissimae Majestatis Reginae Annae, ET Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris, HUMELBERGII, BARTHII, REINESII, A. VAN DER LINDEN, & ALIORUM, ut & _Variarum Lectionum_ Libello. EDITIO SECUNDA. _Longe auctior atque emendatior._
{Decoration}
AMSTELODAMI, Apud JANSSONIO-WAESBERGIOS
MDCCIX.}
APICIANA
{Illustration: DIAGRAM
of Apicius Manuscripts and Printed Editions, showing relation to each other and indicating the sources of the present translation.}
{Transcription:
+=============+ +=========================+ +===============+ |MS | |MS | |MS | |ROME | |The | | | |Vatican Vrbin|-----|ARCHETYPUS FULDENSIS |------|Now in | |lat. 1146 | |* | |NEW YORK CITY | |* | |Formerly in the Monastery| |* | |9th Century | |of Fulda. Probably | |formerly | +=============+ |written prior to the | |CHELTENHAM | | \ \ |9th Century | |Bibl. Phillipps| | \ \ |(now lost) | |275 | | \ \ +=========================+ |9th Century | | \ \ +===============+ | \ \ / | | +---------+ \ \ +====================+ / | | |MS | | | |MS. PARIS lat. 10318| / | | |PARIS | | | |Apici Excerpta a | / | | |lat. 8209| | | |Vinidario v.i. 8th | / | | |15th | | | |Cent. | / | | |century | | | +====================+ / | | +---------+ | \ \ / | | | \ ------\ /--------------- | | | --- \ / \ | | +=================+ \ | \ | | | | | | \ | | | +-----------+ | | | \ | | | |MS | | | | \ | | | |FLORENCE | | | | \ / | | |Laur. 73.20| | | | \ / | | |15th | | | | | / | | |century | | | +---------+ | / +---------+ | +-----------+ | | |MS | | / |The | | | | |MUNICH | | | |HUMELBERG| | +------------+ | | |lat. 756 | | | |EDITION | | |MS | | | |Critinus | | | |Zuerich | | |ROME, Vat | | | |1469 A.D.| | | |1542 | | |lat. 1145 | | | +---------+ | | +---------+ | |15th century| | | | | | | +------------+ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | +----------+ | | +------------+ | | | | |MS | | | |EDITIO | | | | | |FLORENCE | | | |PRINCEPS | | | +------------+ | |Laur. | |....|Venice, ca. | | | |The | | |Strozz. 67| | | |1485-1490 | | | |LISTER | | |15th cent | | | |from unknown| | | |EDITIONS | | +----------+ | | |codex | | | |London, 1705| | | | |(Honterus?) | | | |Amsterdam | | | | +------------+ | | |1709 | | | | | | +------------+ | +---------+ | | | | | | | |MS | | | | | | | | |FLORENCE | | | | | | | | |Ricc. 141| | | \ / | | | |15th | | | \ / | | | |century | | | \ / | | | +---------+ | | \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | +---------+ | | +-----------+ / \ / | | |MS | | | |The | / \ / | | |FLORENCE | | | |LANCILOTUS-| / \ / | | |Ricc. 622| |----|SIGNERRE |----------------- \ | | |15th | | | |EDITIONS, | / \/ \ | | |century | | | |Milan |\ / /\ \ | | +---------+ | | |1490 (?) | \ / / \ \ | | | | |1498 | \/ / \ \ | | | | +-----------+ /\ / \ \ | | | | | \ / \ \ | | +----------+ | | | +---------+ | | | | |MS | | | | |The | | | | | |OXFORD | | | | |BERNHOLD | | | | | |Bodl. Can.| | | | |Editions | | | | | |lat. 163 | | | | |1787-1800| | | | | |1490 | | | | +---------+ | | | | +----------+ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | +-----------+ | | +----------+ | | | |The | | | |The | | +----------+ | | |TORINUS | | | |SCHUCH | | |MS | | | |EDITIONS: | | | |EDITIONS | | |OXFORD | |....|Basel-Lyons| | \ |Heidelberg| | |Bodl. Ad | | | |1541 | | \ |1867-1874 | | |B. 110 | | | |from codex | | \ +----------+ | |15th cent.| | | |found by |------------ \ | | +----------+ | | |Torinus | | \ \ | | | | +-----------+ | \ \ | | | | | \ \ | | +---------+ | | +--------+ | \ \ | | |MS | | | |The | | \ \ | | |CESENA | | | |BASEGGIO| | \ \ | | |151. mun.| |----|Edition,| | \ \ | | |14th | | | |Venice | | \ \ | | |century | | | |1852 |------------------- \ \ | | +---------+ | | +--------+ | \ \ \ | | | | / \ \ \ | | +---------+ | \ +-----------+/ \ +-----------+ | |MS | | \ |The | \|The | | |ROME, Vat| | \|GIARRATANO-|--------------------|VEHLING | | |lat. 6803| | |VOLMER | |TRANSLATION| | |15th | | |Edition | |Chicago | | |century | | |Leipzig | |1926 | | +---------+ | |1922 | +-----------+ | | +-----------+ +=================+}
{Illustration: INCIPIT CONDITUM PARADOXUM
Opening recipe No. 1, Book 1, Apicius. From the manuscript of the 9th century in the Library of the Vatican at Rome.}
APICIANA
A Bibliography of Apician Manuscripts and Printed Editions
A. MANUSCRIPTS
SUMMARY OF MANUSCRIPTS
LOCATION NO. OF MS. BOOKS New York, I 1 Rome, II, IV and XVII 3 Paris, III and V 2 Florence, VI, VII, VIII and IX 4 Oxford, X and XI 2 Cesena, XII 1 Munich, XVIII 1 Not accounted for, XIII, XIV, XV, XVI 4 -- Total of manuscript books 18
(Doubtful as to present location, the Codex Humelbergii, cf. XI, Oxford)
DESCRIPTION OF MANUSCRIPTS
I, 9TH CENTURY
New York, Library of the Academy of Medicine, until 1930 in Cheltenham, Gloucester, Biblioth. Phillipps, 275, in the library of Sir Thomas Phillipps, a codex ca. Ninth century, 4to, parchment, 275 pp., originally bound up with Phill. 386, which is said to have come from the Benedictine Abbey of St. Ghislain, founded at the end of the 7th century in the diocese of Cambrai; partly in Continental, but mostly in Anglo-Saxon minuscle of the 9th century, not unlike the Anglo-Saxon minuscle of Fulda.
Title missing. Cf. Vollmer, Studien, pp. 5-6.
The writer who has hastily inspected the manuscript in 1931 is of the opinion that three different hands wrote this book. Part of the index is gone, too. The book commences with lib. VII of the index. Bound in an 18th century French full leather binding. It was brought to America by Dr. Margaret B. Wilson and presented to the library of the A. of M. in 1931.
II, 9TH CENTURY
Rome, Vatican Library. Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1146, Ninth century. 58 sheets, 2 blanks in the beginning and 2 at the end. Size 23.75 x 18.75 cm., heavy parchment, 20-21 lines to the page, not numbered. Sheet 1 R, illuminated by square panel in purple and gold letters (capit. quadr.) IN{=C}{=P} || API || CAE ||--Nothing else. Sheet 1 V--3 R the title, EPIM e || LES LI || BER I, and the titles of Book I, illuminated with columns, flowers and birds. Sheet 3 R between the foot of the columns EXPLICIVNT CAPITVLA. Sheet 3 V a panel in purple similar to sheet 1 R with inscription, IN{=C}{=P} || CONDIT{=V} || PARADOX{=V}. Sheet 4 R commences the text with the title, I, Conditum Paradoxum. Captions, marginal figures and initials in red. The captions are written in good uncials throughout, the first text words usually in half uncials, continuing in an even and beautiful minuscle. The Explicits and Incipits invariably in capitalis rustica. Sheet 58 V end of text with EXPLICIT LIBER X.
Traube, Vollmer and others believe that this manuscript was written in or in the vicinity of Tours in the 9th century.
III, 8TH CENTURY
Paris, lat. 10318. 8th century. Codex Salmasianus, pp. 196-203, Apici excerpta a Vinidario vir. inl. (See illustration.)
Excerpts from Apicius, 31 formulae not found in the traditional Apicius and quite different in character. Cf. Notes on Vinidarius, preceding the Excerpta which follow the end of Book X of Apicius.
IV, 15TH CENTURY
Rome, Vatican Library, Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1145, parchment, 15th century. 51 sheets, 20 lines to the page, title, Apicius.
V, 15TH CENTURY
Paris, lat. 8209, paper, 15th century. 131 sheets, 30 lines to the page.
VI, 15TH CENTURY
Florence, Laur. 73, 20. 15th century. 84 sheets, 26 lines to the page.
VII, 15TH CENTURY
Florence, Laur. Strozz. 67, 15th century. 50 sheets, 23 lines to the page. Title, Apicius.
VIII, 15TH CENTURY
Florence, Riccardianus, 141 (L III 29), paper, 179 sheets, irregular number of lines, pp. 123-179, Apicius. 15th century.
IX, 1462
Florence, Riccardianus, 662 (M I 26), finished April 4th, 1462, paper, 79 sheets, 26 lines to the page. Pp. 41-79 Apicius, written by Pascutius Sabinus, Bologna, 1462.
X, 1490
Oxford, Bodl. Canon, lat. 168 4to min. 78 pp. dated May 28th, 1490. (_In fine_) scriptum per me Petrum Antonium Salandum Reginensem die xxviii Maii MCCCCLXXXX.
XI, 15TH CENTURY
Oxford, Bodl. Add. B 110, 15th century, Italian, cf. H. Schenkl, Bibl. Britann. I. p. 79 n. 384 and F. Madan, A Summary Catalogue of Western Mss. in the Bodleian Library, Oxford, 1905, p. 660. Vollmer says that this Ms. belonged to a son of Humelbergius, as proven by P. Lehmann.
XII, 14TH CENTURY
Cesena, bibl. municip., 14th century.
XIII
A manuscript in the library of the Sforza brothers at Pesaro which burned in 1514, known only from the catalogue. Cf. A. Vernarecci, La Libreria di Gio. Sforza in Archivio storico per le Marche e l'Umbria, III, 1886, 518, 790.
XIV
A manuscript used by Bonifaz Amerbach and Joh. Sichardus. Cf. P. Lehman, Joh. Sichardus, Quellen und Untersuchungen, IV, 1, p. 204.
XV-XVI
The two manuscripts mentioned by Albanus Torinus, in his edition of Apicius, Basel, 1541. In 1529 Torinus found an Apicius "codex" on the island of Megalona (Maguellone) which he used for his edition of Apicius. It is almost certain that this was not a very ancient manuscript. The way Torinus speaks of it and of the (first) Venetian printed edition in his _epistola dedicatoria_ leaves even doubt as to whether his authority was handwritten or printed. A first edition, printed ca. 1483, may have well been a dilapidated copy such as Torinus describes in 1529. Torinus admits taking some liberties with the text and failed to understand some phrases of it. Despite this fact, his text, from a culinary point of view seems to be more authentic than the Humelbergius and Lister versions.
The other codex according to Torinus, was found in Transsylvania by Io. Honterus of Coronea. This codex may have served as authority for the first edition printed ca. 1483 by Bernardinus, of Venice. No other mention is made of this codex anywhere, which according to Torinus, was sent to Venice from Transsylvania. The text of the Editio Princeps, by the way, is thoroughly unreliable.
XVII, 15TH CENTURY
Ms. Rome, Vatican Library, lat. 6803, 15th Century.
XVIII, 15TH CENTURY
Munich, lat. 756. Ex bibl. Petri Victorii 49. 15th century. This codex is particularly valuable and important for the identification of the Apicius text. Cf. Vollmer, Studien, pp. 10 _seq._
B. PRINTED EDITIONS
SUMMARY OF PRINTED EDITIONS
NO. YEAR OF PUBLICATION PLACE OF PUBLICATION LANGUAGE 1 ca. A.D. 1483(?) Venice, Italy Latin 2 A.D. 1490(?) Milan, Italy (doubtful) Latin 3 A.D. 1498 Milan, Italy Latin 4 A.D. 1503 Venice, Italy Latin 5 A.D. 1541 Basel, Switzerland Latin 6 A.D. 1541 Lyons, France Latin 7 A.D. 1542 Zuerich, Switzerland Latin 8 A.D. 1705 London, England Latin 9 A.D. 1709 Amsterdam, Holland Latin 10 A.D. 1787 Marktbreit, Germany Latin 11 A.D. 1791 Luebeck, Germany Latin 12 A.D. 1800 Ansbach, Germany Latin 13 A.D. 1852 Venice, Italy Italian 14 A.D. 1867 Heidelberg, Germany Latin 15 A.D. 1874 Heidelberg, Germany Latin 16 A.D. 1909 Leipzig, Germany German 17 A.D. 1911 Leipzig, Germany German 18 A.D. 1922 Leipzig, Germany Latin 19 A.D. 1933 Paris, France French 20 A.D. 1936 Chicago, U. S. A. English
COMMENTARIES ON APICIUS
NO. YEAR OF PUBLICATION PLACE OF PUBLICATION LANGUAGE 21 A.D. 1531* Frankfurt, Germany Latin 22 A.D. 1534* Frankfurt, Germany Latin 23 A.D. 1535* Antwerp, Belgium Latin 24 A.D. 1831 Heidelberg, Germany German 25 A.D. 1868 London, England English 26 A.D. 1912 Naples, Italy Italian 27 A.D. 1920 Munich, Germany German 28 A.D. 1921 Rome, Italy Latin-Italian 29 A.D. 1927 Leipzig, Germany German
* Excerpts and adaptations have little relation to Apicius.
Total of Printed Editions, in Latin 15 Total of Printed Editions, in Italian 1 Total of Printed Editions, in German 2 Total of Printed Editions, in French 1 Total of Printed Editions, in English 1 Total of Commentaries in all Languages 9
Editions and Commentaries published in America 1 Editions and Commentaries published in Belgium 1 Editions and Commentaries published in England 2 Editions and Commentaries published in France 2 Editions and Commentaries published in Germany 13 Editions and Commentaries published in Holland 1 Editions and Commentaries published in Italy 7 Editions and Commentaries published in Switzerland 2
BIBLIOGRAPHERS AND COLLECTORS
Albanus Torinus, 1541, describes Mss. XV and XVI.
A. Vernarecci describes Mss. XIII.
P. Lehmann describes Mss. XI and XIV.
F. Vollmer describes Mss. I-XVIII.
Dr. Margaret B. Wilson describes Ms. I.
Georges Vicaire describes editions Nos. 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 14, 15.
Theodor Drexel (Georg) describes editions Nos. 1, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15.
Elizabeth R. Pennell describes editions Nos. 1, 3, 9.
Bernhold describes editions Nos. 2, 10, 11, 12.
Fabricius describes edition No. 2.
Baron Pichon describes editions Nos. 3, 21.
In the author's collection are editions Nos. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23, 27, 28, 29.
DESCRIPTION OF PRINTED EDITIONS
These summaries and descriptions of the known manuscript books and printed editions of Apicius are presented with a desire to afford the students a survey of the field treated in this volume, to illustrate the interest that has existed throughout the past centuries in our ancient book.
Copies of any Apicius edition and commentaries are scarce; famous collectors pride themselves in owning one or several of them. Of the well-known collections of cookery books the most outstanding perhaps is that of Theodor Drexel, of Frankfurt on the Main, who owned nine different editions of Apicius. The Drexel catalogue forms the basis of a bibliography--Verzeichnis der Litteratur ueber Speise und Trank bis zum Jahre 1887, bearbeitet von Carl Georg, Hannover, 1888, describing some 1700 works.
The Drexel collection, combined with that of Dr. Freund, is now in the Staatsbibliothek in Berlin and is undoubtedly the finest collection of its kind.
Another famous collection of cookery books is described in My Cookery Books, by Elizabeth Robins Pennell, Boston, 1903, listing three of the Apicii.
The Pennell collection was destroyed by a flood in London while being stored away in a warehouse during the world war.
The most important bibliography, well-known to bibliophiles, is the Bibliographie gastronomique par Georges Vicaire, Paris, 1890. Vicaire mentions eleven Apicius editions.
The Baron Pichon and the Georges Vicaire collections are both dispersed.
Despite ardent efforts over a period of many years the writer has been unable to secure either an Apicius manuscript or the editions No. 1 and 2. The existence of No. 2 on our list is doubtful. Therefore, we do not pretend having inspected or read each and every edition described herein, but by combining the efforts of the authorities here cited we have gathered the following titles and descriptions in order to present a complete survey of the Apician literature.
NO. 1 CA. A.D. 1483, VENICE
APITII CELII DE RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM || SUETONIUS TR{=A}QUILLUS DE CLARIS GR{=A}MATICIS. || SUETONIUS TR{=A}QUILLUS DE CLARIS RHETORIBUS || COQUINARIAE CAPITA GRAECA AB APITIO POSITA HAEC SUNT || EPIMELES, (_Etc. In fine_) IMPRESSUM VENETIIS PER BERNARDINUM VENETUM.
No date, but attributed to ca. 1483-6. Given as the earliest edition by most authorities. 4to, old vellum, 30 sheets, the pages not numbered. Georg-Drexel, No. 13; Pennell, p. 111; Vicaire, col. 29.
NO. 2, MILAN, A.D. 1490
APICIUS CULINARIS (_sic_) (CURA BLASII LANCILOTI _In fine_) IMPRESSUM MEDIOLANI PER MAGISTRUM GUILIERUM DE SIGNERRE ROTHOMAGENSEM. ANNO DOMINI M CCCC LXXXX DIE VIII MENSIS JANUARII.
Large 8vo. Edition disputed by bibliographers.
Ex Bernhold, _praefatio_, p. IX, who (we are translating from his Latin text) says, "Here is the exterior of the book as extant in the Nuremberg library, most accurately and neatly described by the very famous and most worthy physician of that illustrious republic, Dr. Preus, a friend of mine for thirty years; whose integrity, of course, is above reproach; these are his own words--The book is made in the size called large octavo. It must be mentioned that the sheets are indeed large, so that the size might be styled an ordinary quarto. Fabricius, in his Bibliotheca, the newest edition, quotes a copy under this name. The entire book consists of five parts [sheets, folded into eight leaves--sixteen printed pages--stitched together] and two leaves. These five parts contain the text proper; these two sheets preceding them, are occupied by the title page, the dedication and a kind of poetic address. The text itself commences with p. 5, I should say, though there is no regular pagination. However, there are nevertheless in the lower ends of the leaves, called the limp parts, some conspicuous letters on the first four leaves of the sheets, while the remaining four leaves though belonging to the respective parts, are blank. For instance aI., aII., aIII., aIIII. Then follows the next sheet or part, signed, bI., II., III., IIII. in the same manner, with the four following leaves blank. And thus in the same manner follows sheet c, d, e. The two leaves preceding the five parts which comprise the text proper, contain the title of the book, Apicius Culinaris [_sic_] nowhere, to be sure, appears a note of the place or the date where and when the book was made, and on this whole first page, aside from the words already noted, there is nothing else in evidence than the picture of an angel, in the center of which there is the sign, IHS, and around the circle the following words are read, 'Joannes de Lagniano M.' At the feet of the angel spaces may be seen that are inscribed with the letters, I.O.L. The next page, or the verso of the title page, exhibits the dedication of Blasius Lancilotus, extending to the upper part of the third page. On this very same page occurs the poem by Ludovicus Vopiscus, addressed to Joannes Antonius Riscius, comprising five very beautiful distichs. The remaining part of the third page is finished off with the word, 'Finis,' while the fourth page is entirely blank. The text of Apicius commences with the fifth, as mentioned above, and from now on the leaves are numbered by letters, as previously described. At the end of the text, on the last page of the book, a poem is conspicuous, entitled, 'Antonius Mota to the Public,' consisting of four neat distichs, followed by another composition, containing five distichs by Joannes Salandus. And conclusion of the entire work is made with these words, 'Printed at Milan by Master Guiliermus de Signerre Rothomagensis, in the year of the Lord 1490, on the 8th day of the month of January.'
"From this edition, the oldest as well as the rarest--with no other known earlier edition--all the variants given herewith have been collected by Goezius." Thus far Bernhold.
The existence of this edition is doubted by Brunet, according to Vicaire. This ancient description corresponds substantially to that of Vicaire of the following edition of 1498 which Vicaire proclaims to be the first dated Apicius edition. It is interesting to note, however, what Bernhold has to say of this 1498 edition.
"Without a doubt a repetition of the preceding edition," says he; and he goes on quoting the Bibliotheca Latina Fabricio-Ernestina (Jo. Alberti Fabricii Bibliothec. Latin. edit ab Ernesti 1708) to the effect that two editions were printed at Milan, one of 1490 by Blasius Lancilotus and one of 1498 by Guiliermus de Signerre Rothomagensis.
Our inquiry at the Municipal library of Nuernberg has revealed the fact that this copy of 1490 is no longer in the possession of the library there.
NO. 3, A.D. 1498, MILAN
APICIUS CULINARIUS (_in fine_) IMPRESSUM MEDIOLANI PER MAGISTRUM GUILERUM SIGNERRE ROTHOMAGENSEM, ANNO DNI MCCCCLXXXXVIII, DIE XX, MENSIS IANUARII.
(Ex Pennell, p. 111) First dated edition, 4to, 40 sheets, pages not numbered.
{Illustration: COLOPHON, MILAN EDITION, 1498
From the Lancilotus edition of Apicius, printed by Signerre, Milan, 1498, the first dated edition. The poems by Mota and Salandus are identical with the colophon of the 1503 Venice edition.
Note the date of this colophon and observe how easily it can be read for "the 8th day of January, 1490" which date is attributed to our Apiciana No. 2. This edition, as is noted, is doubtful, although several bibliographers speak about it.}
{Transcription:
Antonius mota Ad vulgus.
Plaudite sartores: caetari: plaudite ventres Plaudite mystili tecta per vncta coqui Pila sit albanis quaecunq; ornata lagaenis Pingue suum copo limen obesus amet Occupat insubres altissimus ille nepotum Gurges & vndantes auget & vrget aquas Millia sex ventri qui fixit Apicius alto Inde timens: sumpsit dira venena: famem.
Ioannes salandus lectori.
Accipe quisquis amas irritamenta palati: Precepta: & leges: oxigarumq; nouum: Condiderat caput: & stygias penitrauerat vndas Celius: in lucem nec rediturus erat: Nunc teritur dextra versatus Apicius omni Vrbem habet: & tectum qui perigrinus erat: Acceptum motte nostro debebis: & ipsi Immortalis erit gratia: laus & honor: Per quem non licuit celebri caruisse nepote: Per quem dehinc fugiet lingua latina situm.
Impressum Mediolani per magistrum Guilermum Signerre Rothomagensem Anno d{=n}i. Mcccclxxxx viii.die.xx.mensis Ianuarii.}
This copy has on the fly leaf the book plate of "Georgius Klotz, M.D. Francofurti ad M{oe}num" and the autograph of John S. Blackie, 1862.
Bernhold, p. XI. Not in Georg-Drexel. Vicaire, 28; he reads Appicius [_sic_] Culinarius. Pennell and Vicaire read Guilerum, Bernhold Guilierum.
Vicaire's description of this edition tallies with that of Bernhold's and his collaborator's account of the preceding edition. There are certain copies of this edition, bearing the following titles, Apicius de re coquinaria and Apicivs in re qvoqvinaria. Cf. Vicaire, 28-29.
NOTES TO NOS. 1, 2, AND 3
GESAMTKATALOG DER WIEGENDRUCKE, Leipzig, 1926, II, p. 510, places as the first printed edition Apicius in re quoquinaria [_sic_] printed by William de Signerre at Milan, on the 20th day of January, 1498. The second place is given APICIUS DE RE COQUINARIA printed by Bernardinus de Vitalibus at Venice, no date, circa 1500 (our No. 1). This classification follows that of Brunet in 1840. Neither the Gesamtkatalog nor Brunet make any mention whatsoever of the doubtful 1490 Milan edition (our No. 2).
Vicaire, col. 33, mentioning this edition citing Bernhold, quotes Brunet as doubting the existence of this 1490 edition, but we fail to notice this expression of doubt since our Brunet is altogether silent on the subject, same as the other bibliographers.
Vicaire, col. 28-29, quotes Brunet as saying that the undated Apicius (our No. 1) despite its sub-titles of Suetonius, contains only the Apicius text, a statement confirmed by Pennell.
A search of all the available works of Joh. Alb. Fabricius--Bibliotheca Latina [Classics], Hamburg, 1722, Bibliographia Antiquaria, ib. 1760 and the Bibliotheca Latina mediae et infimae [middle ages], ib. 1735, has failed to reveal a trace of the 1490 Apicius, displayed by Bernhold, as described by Fabricius and as seen by Preus in the Nuernberg Municipal Library.
Our facsimile of the 1498 colophon shows how easily its date can be mistaken for "the 8th day of January, 1490," Bernhold's very date! Evidently an error of this kind made victims of Preus, Bernhold and Fabricius (if, indeed, he quoted it) and caused us some ardent searching among dusty tomes. We have therefore come to the conclusion that either this 1490 edition disappeared between the year 1787 and our time or else that it never existed.
NO. 4, A.D. 1503, VENICE
APITII CELII DE RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM. || COQUINARIAE CAPITA GRAECA AB APITIO POSITA HAEC SUNT. || EPIMELES: ARTOPTUS: CEPURICA: PANDECTER: OSPRION || TROPHETES: POLYTELES: TETRAPUS: THALASSA: HALIEUS || HANC PLATO ADULATRICEM MEDICINAE APPELLAT || [_in fine_] IMPRESSUM UENETIIS P IOHANNEM DE CERETO DE TRIDINO ALIAS TACUINUM. M.CCCCC.III. DIE TERTIO MENSIS AUGUSTI.
4to, 32 sheets, 30 lines to the page, pages not numbered, signed a-h, by 4.
{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, VENICE EDITION, 1503
From the Blasius Lancilotus edition, printed by Johannes de Cereto de Tridino alias Tacuinus, Venice, 1503. This is the second dated edition of Apicius, resembling very closely the undated edition and also the Milan edition, printed by Signerre 1498, the first to bear a date. Same size as the original. This is a first timid attempt at giving a book a title page. Most books printed before this date have no title pages.}
{Transcription:
Apitii Celii de re Coquinaria libri decem.
Coquinariae capita Graeca ab Apitio posita haec sunt. Epimeles: Artoptus: Cepurica: Pandecter: Osprion Trophetes: Polyteles: Tetrapus: Thalassa: Halieus. Hanc Plato adulatricem medicinae appellat.}
On the last page of our copy are the two poems mentioned in the 1490 Milan edition (No. 2) "Antonius mota ad uulgus" (4 distichs) and "Iohannes salandi Lectori" (5 distichs). The verso of this page is blank. The dedication, on the verso of title page, is likewise by Blasius Lancilotus. It appears that this edition is closely related to No. 2.
Vicaire, 30; unknown to Georg-Drexel and Pennell.
In the collection of the author.
NO. 5, A.D. 1541, BASEL
CAELII APITII || SVMMI ADVLATRICIS MEDI || CINAE ARTIFICIS DE RE CVLINARIA LIBRI X. RE || CENS E TENEBRIS ERUTI & A MENDIS UINDICATI, || TYPISQUE SVMMA DILIGENTIA || EXCUSI. || PRAETEREA, || P. PLATINAE CREMO || NENSIS VIRI UNDECVNQVE DO || CTISSIMI, DE TUENDA UALETUDINE, NATURA RERUM, & POPINAE || SCIENTIA LIBRI X. AD IMITATIONEM C. API || TII AD UNGUEM FACTI. || AD HAEC, || PAVLI AEGINETAE DE || FACVLTATIBUS ALIMENTORVM TRA || CTATVS, ALBANO TORINO || INTERPRETE. || CUM INDICE COPIOSISSIMO. || BASILEAE || M.D.XLI. [_in fine_] BASILEAE, MENSE MARTIO, ANNO M D X L I.
4to, old calf, 16 pp., containing title, dedication and index, not numbered but signed in Greek letters. The body of the work commences with p. 1, finishing with p. 366, the sheets are signed first in small Roman letters a-z and numbers 1-3 and then in capital letters A-Z, likewise numbered 1-3. The titles of the books or chapters, on verso of the title page, under the heading of "Katalogos et Epigraphe Decem Voluminum De Re Popinali C. Apitii" are both in Greek and Roman characters. German names and quotations are in Gothic type (black letter). The book is well printed, in the style of the Froschauer or Oporinus press, but bears no printer's name or device.
The Apicius treatise is concluded on p. 110, and is followed by "Appendicvla De Conditvris Variis ex Ioanne Damasceno, Albano Torino Paraphraste," not mentioned on the title. This treatise extends from p. 110 to p. 117, comprising fourteen recipes for "condimenta" and "conditvrae"; these are followed on the same page by "De Facvltatibvs Alimentorvm Ex Pavlo AEgineta, Albano Torino Interprete" which book is concluded on p. 139; but with hardly any interruption nor with any very conspicuous title on this page there follows the work of Platina: "P. [_sic_] Platinae Cremonensis, viri vndecvnqve doctissimi, De tuenda ualetudine Natura rerum, & Popinae scientia, ad amplissimum D.D.B. Rouerellam S. Clementis presbyterum, Cardinalem, Liber I." The ten books of Platina are concluded on p. 366; the type gracefully tapering down with the words: "P. [_sic_] Platinae libri decimi et vltimi Finis" and the date, as mentioned. The last page blank.
{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LYONS, 1541
This edition, printed in Lyons, France, in 1541, by Sebastian Gryphius is said to have been pirated from the Torinus edition given at Basel in the same year. Early printers stole copiously from one another, frequently reproduced books with hundreds of illustrations with startling speed. Gryphius corrected Torinus' spelling of "P" [Bartholomaeus] Platina, but note the spelling of "Lvg[v]dvni" (Lyons). Inscription by a contemporary reader over the griffin: "This [book] amuses me! Why make fun of me?"}
{Transcription:
CAELII APITII, SVMMI ADVLATRICUS MEDICINAE ARTIFICIS, De re Culinaria libri Decem.
{Handwriting}
B. PLATINAE CREMONENSIS _De Tuenda ualetudine, Natura rerum, & Popinae scientia Libri x._
PAVLI AEGINETAE DE FACULTATIBUS _alimentorum Tractatus, Albano Torino Interprete_.
{Handwriting}
{Decoration}
APVD SEB. GRYPHIVM LVGVDVNI, 1541.}
Strange enough, there is another edition of this work, bearing the same editor's name, printed at Lyons, France, in the same year. This edition, printed by Gryphius, bears the abbreviated title as follows:
NO. 6, A.D. 1541, LYONS
CAELII || APITII SVM || MI ADVLATRICIS || MEDICINAE ARTIFICIS, || DE RE CULINARIA LIBRI || DECEM || B. PLATINAE CREMONEN || SIS DE TUENDA UALETUDINE, NATURA RERUM & POPINAE || SCIENTIA LIBRI X, || PAULI AEGINETAE DE FACULTATIBUS ALIMENTORUM TRACTATUS, || ALBANO TORINO INTER || PRETE.
The lower center of the title page is occupied by the Gryphius printer's device, a griffin standing on a box-like pedestal, supported by a winged globe. On the left of the device: "virtute duci," on the right: "comite fortuna"; directly underneath: "Apvd Seb. Gryphivm, Lvgvdvni [_sic_], 1541." Sm. 8vo. Pages numbered, commencing with verso of title from 2-314. Sheets lettered same as Basel edition; on verso of title "Katalogos" etc. exactly like Basel. Page 3 commences with the same epistola dedicatoria. This dedication and the entire corpus of the book is printed in an awkward Italic type, except the captions which are in 6 pt. and 8 pt. Roman. The book is quite an unpleasant contrast with the fine Antiqua type and the generous margins of the Basel edition. Some woodcut initials but of small interest. The index, contrary to Basel, is in the back. The last page shows another printer's device, differing from that on the title, another griffin.
This edition, though bearing Platina's correct initial, B., has the fictitious title given to his work by Torinus, who probably possessed one of the earliest editions of Platina's De honesta Voluptate, printed without a title page.
Altogether, this Lyons edition looks very much like a hurried job, and we would not be surprised to learn that it was pirated from the Basel edition.
The epistola dedicatoria, in which Torinus expresses fear of pirates and asks his patron's protection, is concluded with the date, Basileae, v. Idus Martias, Anno M. D. XLI., while the copy described by Vicaire appears to be without this date. Vicaire also says that the sheets of his copy are not numbered. He also reads on the title "Lvgdvni, 1541" which is spelled correctly, but not in accordance with the original. Of these two editions Vicaire says:
"Ces deux editions portent la meme date de 1541, mais celle qui a ete publiee a Bale a paru avant celle donnee a Lyon par Seb. Gryphe. Cette derniere, en effet, contient la dedicace datee." The title page of our copy is inscribed by three different old hands, one the characteristic remark: "Mulcens me, gannis?" This copy is bound in the original vellum. Vicaire, 31, G.-Drexel, No. 12.
The work of Torinus has been subjected to a searching analysis, as will be shown throughout the book. An appreciation of Platina will be found in Platina, maestro nell'arte culinaria Un'interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, by Agostino Cavalcabo, Cremona, 1935.
{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, HUMELBERGIUS EDITION, ZUeRICH, 1542
The Gabriel Humelbergius edition is printed by Froschauer, one of the great printers of the Renaissance. Showing the autograph of Johannes Baptista Bassus. The best of the early Apicius editions.}
{Transcription:
IN HOC OPERE CONTENTA
APICII CAELII
DE OPSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS, SIVE ARTE COQVINARIA LIBRI X.
ITEM,
Gabrielis Humelbergij Medici, Physici Isnensis in Apicij Caelij libros X. Annotationes.
TIGVRI IN OFFICINA Froschouiana. Anno, M. D. XLII.
{Handwriting}
{Signature: Johannes Baptista Bassus.}}
NO. 7, A.D. 1542, ZUeRICH
IN HOC OPERE CONTENTA. || APICII CAELII || DE OPSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS, || SIVE ARTE COQVINA || RIA, LIBRI X. || ITEM, || GABRIELIS HUMELBERGIJ MEDICI, PHYSICI || ISNENSIS IN APICIJ CAELIJ LIBROS X. || ANNOTATIONES. || TIGVRI IN OFFICINA || FROSCHOUIANA. ANNO, || M.D. XLII.
4to, 123 sheets, pagination commences with title, not numbered. On verso of title a poem by Ioachim Egell, extolling Humelberg. Sheet 2 the dedication, dated "Isnae Algoiae, mense Maio, Anno a Christo nato, M.D.XLII." Sheet 3-4 have the preface; on verso of 4 the names of the books of Apicius. On recto of sheet 5 the chapters of Book I; on verso commences the corpus of the work with Apicii Caelii Epimeles Liber I.
The Apicius text is printed in bold Roman, the copious notes by the editor in elegant Italics follow each book. Very instructive notes, fine margins, splendid printing. Altogether preferable to Torinus. Our copy is bound in the original vellum. Inscribed in old hand by Johannes Baptista Bassus on the title.
G.-Drexel, No. 14; Vicaire, 31; not in Pennell.
NO. 8, A.D. 1705, LONDON
APICII C{OE}LII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS, || SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA, || LIBRI DECEM. || CUM ANNOTATIONIBUS MARTINI LISTER, || E MEDICIS DOMESTICIS SERENISSIMAE MA || JESTATIS REGINAE ANNAE || ET || NOTIS SELECTIORIBUS, VARIISQUE LECTIONIBUS INTEGRIS, || HUMELBERGII, CASPARI BARTHII, || & VARIORUM. || LONDINI: || TYPIS GULIELMI BOWYER. MDCCV.
The first edition by Lister, limited to 120 copies.
8vo. The title in red and black. Original full calf, gilt. Pp. XIV + 231. Index 11 leaves, unnumbered. This scarce book is described by Vicaire, 32, but unknown to the collectors Drexel and Pennell. Our copy has on the inside front cover the label of the Dunnichen library. Above the same in an old hand: "Liber rarissimus Hujus editionis 120 tantum exemplaria impressa sunt." On the fly leaf, in a different old hand a six line note in Latin, quoting the medieval scholar, G. J. Vossius, Aristarch. 1.13. p. 1336, on the authorship of C{oe}lius. Directly below in still another old hand, the following note, a rather pleasing passage, full of sentiment and affection for our subject, that deserves to be quoted in full: "Alas! that time is wanting to visit the island of Magellone [Megalona-Torinus] where formerly flourished a large town, of which there are now no other remains but the cathedral church, where, according to tradition, the beautiful Magellone lies buried by her husband Peter of Province.* Matthison's letters, etc. pag. 269.
"'* Jt was in the island of Magellone that Apicius's ten books on cookery were rediscovered.' _Ibid._--Vide Fabric. Biblioth: Lat: edit. ab Ernesti. vol. 2; p. 365."
On the verso of the title page there is the printed note in Latin to the effect that 120 copies of this edition have been printed at the expense of eighteen gentlemen whose names are given, among them "Isaac Newton, Esq." and other famous men.
{Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, LONDON, 1705
The first Apicius edition by Martin Lister, Court Physician to Queen Anne. Printed in London in 1705 by the famous printer, William Bowyer. This is one of the rarest of the Apician books, the edition being limited to 120 copies. It has been said that the second edition (Amsterdam, 1709) was limited to 100 copies, but there is no evidence to that effect.}
{Transcription:
APICIANA
APICII C{OE}LII DE OPSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS, Sive Arte Coquinaria, LIBRI DECEM.
Cum Annotationibus MARTINI LISTER, e Medicis domesticis serenissimae Majestatis Reginae Annae.
ET
Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris, HUMELBERGII, CASPARI BARTHII, & VARIORUM.
LONDINI: Typis _Gulielmi Bowyer_. MDCCV.}
Lister's preface to the reader occupies pp. I-XIV; the same appears in the 1709 (2nd) edition. The ten books of Apicius occupy pp. 1-231; the index comprises 11 unnumbered leaves; on the verso of the 11th leaf, the errata. One leaf for the "Catalogus" (not mentioned by Vicaire) a bibliography of the editor's extensive writings, and works used in this edition principally upon nature and medical subjects. This list was ridiculed by Dr. King. Cf. Introduction by Frederick Starr to this present work. The last leaf blank. Our copy is in the original binding, and perfect in every respect.
{Illustration: VERSO OF TITLE PAGE
of the first Lister edition, London, 1705, giving evidence of the edition being limited to 120 copies. This edition was done at the expense of the men named in this list. Note particularly "Isaac Newton, Esq.," Sir Christopher Wren and a few more names famous to this day.}
{Transcription:
_Hujus Libri_ centum & viginti _tantum_ Exemplaria _impressa sunt impensis infrascriptorum_.
Tho. _Lord A.B. of_ Canterbury. Ch. _Earl of_ Sunderland. J. _Earl of_ Roxborough, _Principal Secretary of State for_ Scotland. J. _Lord_ Sommers. Charles _Lord_ Hallifax. J. _Lord Bishop of_ Norwich. Ge. _Lord Bishop of_ Bath _and_ Wells. Robert Harley _Speaker, and Principal Secretary of State_. _Sir_ Richard Buckley, _Baronet_. _Sir_ Christopher Wren. Tho. Foley, _Esq_; Isaac Newton, _Esq_; _President of the Royal Society_. William Gore, _Esq_; Francis Ashton, _Esq_; _Mr._ John Flamstead, _Ast._ Reg. John Hutton, } Tancred Robinson, } _M. D. D._ Hans Sloane. }}
NO. 9, A.D. 1709, AMSTERDAM
APICII C{OE}LII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS, || SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA, || LIBRI DECEM. || CUM ANNOTATIONIBUS || MARTINI LISTER, || E MEDICIS DOMESTICIS SERENISSIMAE MAJE || STATIS REGINAE ANNAE, || ET || NOTIS SELECTIORIBUS, VARIISQUE LECTIONIBUS INTEGRIS, || HUMELBERGII, BARTHII, REINESII, || A. VAN DER LINDEN, & ALIORUM, || UT & VARIARUM LECTIONUM LIBELLO. || EDITIO SECUNDA. || LONGE AUCTIOR ATQUE EMENDATIOR. || AMSTELODAMI, || APUD JANSSONIO-WAESBERGIOS. || M D C C I X.
Small 8vo. Title in red and black. Dedication addressed to Martinus Lister by Theod. Jans. [sonius] of Almeloveen; the preface, M. Lister to the Reader, and the "Judicia et Testimonia de Apicio" by Olaus Borrichius and Albertus Fabricius occupy seventeen leaves. The ten books of Apicius, with the many notes by Lister, Humelberg and others, commence with page 1 and finish on page 277. Variae Lectiones, 9 leaves; Index, 12 leaves, none numbered.
Vicaire, 32; Pennell, p. 112; G.-Drexel, No. 164. "Edition assez estimee. On peut l'annexer a la collection des Variorum d'apres M. Graesse, Tresor des Livres rares et precieux."--Vicaire. Our copy is in the original full calf gold stamped binding, with the ex libris of James Maidment.
The notes by Lister are more copious in this edition, which is very esteemed and is said to have been printed in 100 copies only, but there is no proof of this.
Typographically an excellent piece of work that would have done justice the Elzevirs.
NO. 10, A.D. 1787, MARKTBREIT
CAELII APICII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS || SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA || LIBRI X || CUM || LECTIONIBUS VARIIS || ATQUE INDICE || EDITIT || JOANNES MICHAEL BERNHOLD || COMES PALATINATUS CAESAREUS, PHIL. ET || MED. D. SERENISSIMO MARCHIONI BRAN || DENBURGICO-ONOLDINO-CULBACENSI || A CONSILIIS AULAE, PHYSICUS SUPREMA || RUM PRAEFECTURARUM VFFENHEMENSIS || ET CREGLINGENSIS, ACADEMIAE IMPERIALI || NATURAE SCRUTATORUM ADSCRIPTUS.
The first edition. The title page has a conspicuously blank space for the date etc. of the publication, but this is found at the foot of p. 81, where one reads: Marcobraitae, Excudebat Joan. Val. Knenlein, M. D. CC. LXXXVII. 8vo. Fine large copy, bound in yellow calf, gilt, with dentelles on edges and inside, by J. Clarke, the binding stamped on back, 1800. Dedication and preface, pp. XIV. The ten books of Apicius commence with p. 1 and finish on p. 81, with the date, as above. Index capitulum, pp. 82-85; Lectiones Variantes collectae ex Editione Blasii Lanciloti, pp. 86-108, at the end of same: "Sedulo hae Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti editione sunt excerpta ab Andrea Goezio Scholae Sebaldinae Norimbergiensis Collega." Variantes Lectiones, Lib. I. Epimeles, pp. 109-112, with a note at the head of the same that these variants occur in the Vatican MS. These four pages are repeated in the next chapter, pp. 113-130, "Variae Lectiones Manuscripti Vaticani," headed by the same note, the text of which is herewith given in full. Bernhold states that these Variae Lectiones have been taken from the second Lister edition (No. 8) where they are found following p. 277. The first Lister edition does not contain these Variae, nor does Lister have the Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti. The following note to the Vatican variants appears in the second Lister edition also:
"Apicii collatio cum antiquissimo codice, literis fere iisdem, quibus Pandectae Florentinae, scripto; qui seruatur hodie Romae in Bibliotheca Vaticana, inter libros MSS., qui fuere Ducis Vrbinatium, sed, nostris temporibus extincta illa familia Ducali, quae Ducatum istum a Romanis Pontificibus in feudum tenuerat, Vrbino Romam translati, et separato loco in bibliotheca Vaticana respositi sunt. Contulit Henricus Volkmarus [Lister: Volkmas] Scherzerus, Lipsiensis. E bibliotheca Marquardii Gudii ad I. A. Fabricium, et, ex huius dono, ad Theodorum Ianssonium ab Almeloueen transmigrauere; qui illas suae, Amstelodami 1709 8vo in lucem prolatae; Apicii editioni inseri curauit."
On pp. 131-154 are found the Lectiones Variantes Humelbergianae, and on pp. 155-156 the Lectiones differentes etc. On pp. 157-228 the Index Vocabulorum ac Rerum notabiliorum etc.; on pp. 229-30 the Notandum adhuc. One blank leaf.
Described by Vicaire, 33, who has only seen the 1791 edition; G.-Drexel, No. 165; Brunet I. 343. Neither Vicaire nor Georg-Drexel have the date and place of publication, which in our copy is hidden on p. 81.
Georg reads Apicii C{oe}lii instead of the above. On the fly leaf the autograph of G. L. Fournier, Bayreuth, 1791.
Bernhold has based his edition upon Lister and on the edition by Blasius Lancilotus, Milan, 1490, (our No. 2, which see.) Aside from the preface in which Bernhold names this and other Apicius editions, unknown to the bibliographers, the editor has not added any of his own observations. Being under the influence of Lister, he joins the English editor in the condemnation of Torinus. His work is valuable because of the above mentioned variants.
NO. 11, A.D. 1791, LUeBECK
[Same as above] The Second Edition. Vicaire, 33. not in G.-Drexel nor Pennell.
NO. 12, A.D. 1800, ANSBACH
APITIUS C{OE}LIUS DE RE CULINARIA. Ed. Bernhold. 8vo. Ansbachii, 1800.
Ex Georg, No. 1076; not in Vicaire nor in Pennell. Though listed by Georg, it is not in the Drexel collection.
NO. 13, A.D. 1852, VENICE
APITIUS CAELIUS DELLE VIVANDE E CONDIMENTI OVVERO DELL' ARTE DE LA CUCINA. VOLGARIZZAMENTO CON ANNOTATIONI DI G. BASEGGIO.
8vo, pp. 238. With the original Latin text. Venezia, 1852, Antonelli.
Ex Georg-Drexel, No. 1077.
NO. 14, A.D. 1867, HEIDELBERG
APICI CAELI || DE || RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM. || NOVEM CODICUM OPE ADIUTUS, AUXIT, RESTI || TUIT, EMENDAVIT, ET CORREXIT, VARIARUM || LECTIONUM PARTE POTISSIMA ORNAVIT, STRIC || TIM ET INTERIM EXPLANAVIT || CHR. THEOPHIL. SCHUCH. || HEIDELBERGAE, 1867.
8vo. pp. 202.
Ex Vicaire, 33; Not in G.-Drexel, not in Pennell.
NO. 15, A.D. 1874
[The same] EDITIO SECUNDA HEIDELBERGAE, 1874, [Winter].
Although G.-Drexel, No. 1075, reads Apitius C{oe}lius, our copy agrees with the reading of Vicaire, col. 889, appendix. Not in Pennell. Brandt (Untersuchungen [No. 29] p. 6) calls Schuch _Wunderlicher Querkopf_. He is correct. The Schuch editions are eccentric, worthless.
NO. 16, A.D. 1909, LEIPZIG
DAS APICIUS-KOCHBUCH AUS DER ALTROeMISCHEN KAISERZEIT. Ins Deutsche uebersetzt und bearbeitet von Richard Gollmer. Mit Nachbildungen alter Kunstblaetter, Kopfleisten und Schlusstuecke. Breslau und Leipzig bei Alfred Langewort, 1909. 8vo. pp. 154.
NO. 17, A.D. 1911, LEIPZIG
APICIUS CAELIUS: ALTROeMISCHE KOCHKUNST IN ZEHN BUeCHERN. Bearbeitet und ins Deutsche uebersetzt von Eduard Danneil, Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur. Leipzig: 1911: Herausgabe und Verlag: Kurt Daeweritz, Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur Obermeister der Innung der Koeche zu Leipzig und Umgebung. 8vo, pp. XV + 127.
NO. 18, A.D. 1922, LEIPZIG
APICII || LIBRORVM X QVI DICVNTVR || DE RE COQVINARIA || QVAE EXTANT || EDIDERVNT || C. GIARRATANO ET FR. VOLLMER || LIPSIAE IN AEDIBVS B. G. TEVBNERI MCMXXII.
NO. 19, A.D. 1933, PARIS
LES DIX LIVRES DE CUISINE D'APICIUS traduits du latin pour la Premiere fois et commentes par Bertrand Guegan. Paris Rene Bonnel Editeur rue Blanche, No. 8.
No date (_in fine_ October 16th, 1933). Three blank leaves, false title; on verso, facing the title page (!) "_du meme auteur_"--a full-page advertisement of the author's many-sided publications, past and future. Title page, verso blank. On p. ix _Introduction_, a lengthy discourse on dining in ancient times, including a mention of Apician manuscripts and editions. This commences on p. Li with _Les Manuscrits d'Apicius_. The _Introduction_ finishes on p. Lxxviii. On p. 1 _Les Dix Livres d'Apicius_, on p. 2 a facsimile in black of the _incipit_ of the Vatican manuscript, Apiciana II. On p. 3 commences the translation into French of the Apician text, finishing on p. 308. _Table Analytique_ (index) pp. 309-322. Follow three unnumbered sheets, on the first page of which is the _Justification du tirage_, with the date of printing and the printer's name, Durand of Chartres. The copies printed are numbered from 1 to 679. The copy before us is No. 2; copies 1 to 4 are printed on Montval vellum, 5 to 29 on Dutch Pannekoek vellum, the rest, 30 to 679 on Vidalon vellum paper.
Unfortunately, the present work did not reach us until after ours had gone to press. The text of this edition, the first to appear in the French language, could not be considered in our work, for this reason.
However, a few casual remarks about it may be in order here.
A hasty perusal reveals the disconcerting fact that the editor has been influenced by and has followed the example of Schuch by the adoption of his system of numbering the recipes. We do not approve of his inclusion of the excerpts of Vinidarius in the Apician text.
The observations presented in this edition are rich and varied. The material, comprising the _Introduction_ and also the explanatory notes to the recipes are interesting, copious and well-authenticated. The editor reveals himself to be a better scholar, well-read in the classics, than a practical cook, well-versed in kitchen practice. Frequently, for instance, he confounds _liquamen_ with _garum_, the age-old shortcoming of the Apician scholars.
The advertisement facing the title page of this work is misplaced, disturbing.
Nevertheless, we welcome this French version which merits a thorough study; this we hope to publish at some future date. Any serious and new information on Apicius is welcome and much needed to clear up the mysteries. The advent of a few additional cooks on the scene doesn't matter. Let them give lie to the old proverb that too many cooks spoil the broth. Apicius has been so thoroughly scrambled during the sixteen-hundred years preceding his first printing which started the scholars after him. So far, with the exception of a few minor instances, they have done remarkably well. The complete unscrambling can be done only by many new cooks, willing to devote much pain and unremunerative, careful, patient work in discovering new evidence and adding it to what there is already, to arrive at the truth of the matter.
NO. 20, A.D. 1926-1936, CHICAGO
Apicius, J. D. Vehling, the present edition.
DESCRIPTION OF COMMENTARIES
NO. 21, A.D. 1531, FRANKFORT
DE RE COQUINARIA. VON SPEISEN. Natuerlichen und Kreuterwein, aller Verstandt. Vber den Zusatz viler bewerter Kuenst, insonders fleissig gebessert und corrigirt aus Apitio, Platina, Varrone, Bapt. Fiera cet.'; Francofurti, apud Egenolfum, 1531, 4to.
Ex Bernhold, p. XIV, unknown to the bibliographers. The above is related to the following two works. Apparently, all three have little bearing on Apicius.
NO. 22, A.D. 1534, FRANKFORT
POLYONYMI SYNGRAPHEI SCHOLA APICIANA. Ibid. 1534, 4to.
Ex Bernhold, p. XIV., unknown to the bibliographers. Copy in the Baron Pichon collection, No. 569.
NO. 23, AD. 1535, ANTWERP
SCHOLA || APITIANA, EX OP || TIMIS QVIBVS || DAM AUTHORIBUS DILIGEN || TER AC NOUITER CONSTRU || CTA, AUTHORE POLYO || NIMO SYNGRA || PHEO. || A C GESSERE DIA || LOGI ALIQUOT D. ERASMI RO || TERODAMI, & ALIA QUAEDAM || LECTU IUCUNDISSIMA. || VAENEUNT ANTUERPIAE IN AEDI || BUS IOANNIS STEELSIJ. || I. G. 1535. Small 8vo. Title in beautiful woodcut border. [_in fine_] TYPIS IOAN. GRAPHEI. M.D.XXXV.
Pagination A-I 4, on verso of I 4, device of Io. Steels, Concordia, with doves on square and astronomical globe. On verso of title, In Scholam Apitianam Praefatio. Sheet A3 Mensam Amititiae Sacram esse, etc. On sheet A6 The dialogue by Erasmus of Rotterdam between Apitivs and Spvdvs to verso of sheet A8; follows: Conviviarvm qvis nvmervs esse debeat [etc.] ex Aulo Gellio; Praecepta C{oe}narvm by Horace; De Ciborvm Ratione by Michaele Savonarola [Grandfather of the great Girolamo S.]; on sheet C5 De Cibis Secvndae Mensae, by Paulus Aegineta; and a number of other quotations from ancient and medieval authors, partly very amusing. The Apician matter seems to be entirely fictitious.
In the collection of the author. Vicaire, 701, who also describes in detail the 1534 edition printed by Egenolph but which is not the same as the above in text.
NO. 24, A.D. 1831, HEIDELBERG
FLORA APICIANA. Dierbach, J. H. Ein Beitrag zur naeheren Kenntniss der Nahrungsmittel der alten Roemer. Heidelberg, 1831, Groos. 8vo.
NO. 25, A.D. 1868, LONDON
H. C. COOTE: THE CUISINE BOURGEOISE OF ANCIENT ROME. Archaeologia, vol. XLI.
Ex Bibliotheca A. Shircliffe.
NO. 26, A.D. 1912, NAPLES
CESARE GIARRATANO: I CODICI DEI LIBRI DE RE COQUINARIA DI CELIO. Naples, 1912, Detken & Rocholl.
NO. 27, AD. 1920
FRIEDRICH VOLLMER: STUDIEN ZU DEM ROeMISCHEN KOCHBUCHE VON APICIUS. Vorgetragen am 7. Februar 1920. Sitzungsberichte der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften Philosophisch-philologische und historische Klasse Jahrgang, 1920, 6. Abhandlung. Muenchen, 1920. Verlag der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften in Kommission des G. Franzschen Verlags (J. Roth).
NO. 28, A.D. 1921
G. STERNAJOLO: CODICES VRBINATI LATINI.
NO. 29, AD. 1927
UNTERSUCHUNGEN ZUM ROeMISCHEN KOCHBUCHE Versuch einer Loesung der Apicius-Frage von Edward Brandt, Leipzig, Dietrich'sche Verlagsbuchhandlung, 1927. Philologus, Supplementband XIX, Heft III. 164 pp.
Dr. Edward Brandt, the philologist of Munich, is the latest of the Apician commentators. His researches are quite exhaustive. While not conclusive (as some of the problems will perhaps never be solved) he has shed much new light on the vexatious questions of the origin and the authors of our old Roman cookery book.
APICIANAE FINIS
{Illustration: CANTHARUS, WINE CUP WITH HANDLES
Elaborate decoration of Bacchic motifs: wine leaves and masks of satyrs. Hildesheim Treasure.}
INDEX and VOCABULARY
A
Abalana, Abellana, hazelnut, see Avellana
Abbreviations, explanation of, p. xv
ABDOMEN, sow's udder, belly, fat of lower part of belly, figur. Gluttony, intemperance
ABROTANUM, --ONUM, --ONUS the herb lad's love; or, according to most Southernwood. ABROTONUM is also a town in Africa
Absinth. ABSINTHIUM, the herb wormwood. The Romans used A. from several parts of the world. {Rx} 3, also APSINTHIUM
ABSINTHIATUS, --UM, flavored with wormwood, {Rx} 3
ABSINTHITES, wine tempered or mixed with wormwood; modern absinth or Vermouth, cf. {Rx} 3
ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, {Rx} 3
ABUA, a small fish; see APUA, {Rx} 138, 139, 147
ACER, ACEO, ACIDUM, to be or to make sour, tart
ACETABULUM, a "vinegar" cruet: a small measure, equivalent to 15 Attic drachms; see Measures
ACETUM, vinegar ---- MULSUM, mead
ACICULA, ACUS, the needle fish, or horn-back, or horn-beak; a long fish with a snout sharp like a needle; the gar-fish, or sea-needle
ACIDUM, sour; same as ACER
ACINATICIUS, a costly raisin wine
ACINOSUS, full of kernels or stones
ACINUS, --UM, a grain, or grape raisin berry or kernel
ACIPENSER, a large fish, sturgeon, {Rx} 145; also see STYRIO
ACOR, --UM, sourness, tartness; the herb sweetcane, gardenflag, galangale
ACRIMONIA, acidity, tartness, sourness; harshness of taste
ACUS, same as ACICULA
Adjustable Table, illustration, p. 138
ADULTERAM, "tempting" dish, {Rx} 192
Adulterations of food in antiquity, pp. 33, 39, seq. 147; {Rx} 6, 7, 9, 15, 17, 18. Also see Cookery, deceptive
Advertising cooked ham, {Rx} 287
Advertising ancient hotels, p. 6
Aegineta, Paulus, writer on medicine and cookery, see Apiciana, No. 5-6
AENEUM, a "metal" cooking utensil, a CACCABUS, which see; AENEUM VAS, a mixing bowl; AENEA PATELLA, a pewter, bronze or silver service platter. Aeno Coctus, braised, sometimes confused with oenococtum, stewed in wine
AEROPTES, fowl, birds; the correct title of Book VI, see p. 141
Aethiopian Cumin {Rx} 35
"AFFE" (Ger.) Monkey; {Rx} 55; also see Caramel Coloring
AGITARE (OVA), to stir, to beat (eggs)
AGNUS, IN AGNO, lamb; AGNINUS, pertaining to L. {Rx} 291 seq., 355, 364, 495 ---- COPADIA AGNINA, {Rx} 355 seq. ---- AGNI COCTURA, {Rx} 358 ---- ASSUS, {Rx} 359 ---- AGNUM SIMPLICEM, {Rx} 495 ---- TARPEIANUS, {Rx} 363
AGONIA, cattle sacrificed at the festivals: only little of the victims was wasted at religious ceremonies. The priests, after predicting the future from the intestines, burned them but sold the carcass to the innkeeper and cooks of the POPINA, hence the name. These eating places of a low order did a thriving business with cheaply bought meats which, however, usually were of the best quality. In Pompeii such steaks were exhibited in windows behind magnifying glasses to attract the rural customer
Albino, writer, p. 10
ALBUM, ALBUMEN, white; ---- OVORUM, the "whites" of egg; ---- PIPER, white pepper, etc.
ALEX, (ALEC, HALEC), salt water, pickle, brine, fish brine. Finally, the fish itself when cured in A. cf. MURIA
Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the Great, important Mediterranean harbor. A. was a rival of Rome and Athens in Antiquity, famous for its luxury
Alexandrine dishes {Rx} 75, 348, seq.
ALICA, spelt. {Rx} 200
ALICATUM, any food treated with ALEX, which see
ALLIATUM, a garlic sauce, consisting of a puree of pounded garlic whipped up with oil into a paste of a consistency of mayonnaise, a preparation still popular in the Provence today; finally, anything flavored with garlic or leeks
ALLIUM, garlic; also leek. Fr. AILLE
Almonds, AMYGDALA, peeling and bleaching of A. {Rx} 57
AMACARUS, sweet-marjoram, feverfew
AMBIGA, a small vessel in the shape of a pyramid
AMBOLATUS, unidentified term; p. 172; {Rx} 57, 59
Amerbach Manuscript, Apiciana XIV
AMMI, (AMMIUM, AMI, AMIUM), cumin
AMURCA (AMUREA), the lees of oil
AMYGDALA (--UM) Almonds, {Rx} 57; OLEUM AMYGDALIUM, almond oil
AMYLARE (AMULARE), to thicken with flour. AMYLATUM (AMULATUM) that which is thickened with flour. Wheat or rice flour and fats or oil usually were used for this purpose, corresponding to our present roux. However, the term was also extended to the use of eggs for the purpose of thickening fluids, thus becoming equivalent to the present liaison, used for soups and sauces. Hence AMYLUM and AMULUM, which is also a sort of frumenty
Anacharsis, the Scythian, writer. He described a banquet at Athens during the Periclean age. pp. 3, 7
ANAS, a duck or drake; {Rx} 212-17. ANATEM, {Rx} 212; ANATEM EX RAPIS, {Rx} 214
Anchovy, a small fish; {Rx} 147; cf. APUA. ---- forcemeat, {Rx} 138; ---- sauce and GARUM (which see) {Rx} 37; ---- omelette {Rx} 147
ANET(H)ATUM, flavored with dill; ANET(H)UM, dill, also anise
ANGUILLA, eel, {Rx} 466-7, 484. cf. CONGRIO
ANGULARUS, a "square" dish or pan
ANISUM, anise, pimpinella
ANSER, goose, gander; IN ANSERE, {Rx} 234; ---- JUS CANDIDUM {Rx} 228
ANTIPASTO, "Before the Meal," modern Italian appetizer; the prepared article usually comes in cans or glasses, consisting of tunny, artichokes, olives, etc., preserved in oil
APER, see APRUS
APEXABO, a blood sausage; cf. LONGANO
Aphricocks, {Rx} 295
APHROS, {Rx} 295
APHYA, see APUA
Apician Cheesecakes, p. 9 ---- cookery, influence, p. 16, 23 ---- Archetypus, p. 19 ---- manuscripts, p. 19, p. 253, seq. ---- Terminology, p. 22 ---- dishes, compared with modern dishes, p. 23 ---- sauces, p. 24 ---- Style of writing, p. 26 ---- research, p. 34 seq.
Apiciana, Diagram of, p. 252
Apicius, pp. 7, 9 ---- The man, p. 9 ---- Athenaeus on, p. 9 ---- and Platina, p. 9 ---- Expedition to find crawfish, p. 9 ---- ships oysters, p. 10 ---- school, p. 10 ---- death, pp. 10, 11 ---- reflecting Roman conditions, pp. 14, 15 ---- authenticity of, pp. 18, 19 ---- writer, p. 26, {Rx} 176, 436 ---- confirmed by modern science, p. 33 ---- editors as cooks, p. 34 seq.
Apion, writer, quoted by Athenaeus, p. 9
APIUM, celery, smallage, parsley. {Rx} 104
APOTHERMA (--UM, APODERMUM) hot porridge, gruel, pudding. {Rx} 57; cf. TISANA
APPARATUS, preparation; ---- MENSAE, getting dinner ready
Appetizers. {Rx} 174 and others. According to Horace, eggs were the first dishes served. The "moveable appetizer" of Apicius is very elaborate, p. 210
Appert, Francois, {Rx} 24, father of the modern canning methods
Apples, {Rx} 22, 171
APRUS, APRUGNUS, wild boar. {Rx} 329-38. APRINA, PERNA, {Rx} 338, also APER
APUA (ABUA, APHYA), a small kind of fish, anchovy, sprat, whiting, white bait, or minnow. {Rx} 138-9, 146, cf. Pliny. Apua is also a town in Liguria; its inhabitants APUANI
AQUA, water; ---- CALIDA, hot w.; ---- CISTERNINA, well w.; ---- MARINA, sea w.; ---- NITRATA, soda w. for the cooking of vegetables; ---- RECENS; fresh, i.e., not stale w.; ---- PLUVIALE, rain w.
AQUALICUS lower part of belly, paunch, ventricle, stomach, maw
Archetypus Fuldensis, manuscript, see Apiciana Diagram
ARCHIMAGIRUS, principal cook, chef, cf. Cooks' names
ARIDA (--US, --UM) dry; ---- MENTHA, dry mint
ARTEMISIA, the herb mugwort, motherwort, tarragon
ARTOCREAS, meat pie
ARTOPTES, Torinus' title of Book II; better: SARCOPTES, minces, minced meats
ARTYMA, spice; cf. CONDIMENTUM
Asa foetida, use of ---- {Rx} 15, p. 23
ASARUM, the Herb foalbit, foalfoot, coltsfoot, wild spikenard
ASCALONICA CEPA, "scallion," young onion
Asparagus, ASPARAGUS, p. 188, {Rx} 72, ---- and figpecker, {Rx} 132, ---- custard pie, {Rx} 133
ASSATURA, a roast, also the process of roasting. {Rx} 266-270
ASSUS, roast
ASTACUS, a crab or lobster
Athenaeus, writer, pp. 3, seq. ---- on Apicius, p. 10
Athene, Dish illustration, p. 158
ATRIPLEX, the herb orage, or orach
ATRIUM, living room in a Roman residence, formerly used for kitchen purposes, hence the name, "black room," because of the smoky walls. Like all simple things then and now, the Atrium often developed into a magnificently decorated court, with fountains and marble statues, and became a sort of parlor to receive the guests of the house
ATTAGENA (ATAGENA), heath cock, a game bird. {Rx} 218, seq.
AURATA, a fish, "golden" dory, red snapper. {Rx} 157, 461, 462
AVELLANA, hazelnut, filbert, Fr. AVELLINE ---- NUX, ---- NUCLEUS, kernel of f. {Rx} 297 and in the list of the Excerpta
AVENA, a species of bearded grass, haver-grass, oats, wild oats
AVIBUS, IN-- {Rx} 220, 21, 24, 27
AVICULARIUS, bird keeper, poulterer
AVIS, bird, fowl; AVES ESCULENTAE, edible birds. ---- HIRCOSAE, ill-smelling birds, {Rx} 229-30, ---- NE LIQUESCANT, {Rx} 233
B
BACCA, berry, seed. ---- MYRTHEA, myrtle berry; ---- RUTAE, rue berry; ---- LAUREA, laurel berry, etc.
Bacon, {Rx} 285-90; see also SALSUM
BAIAE, a town, watering place of the ancients, for which many dishes are named. {Rx} 205. BAIANUM pertaining to BAIAE; hence EMPHRACTUM ----, FABAE, etc. {Rx} 202, 205, 432; Baian Seafood Stew, {Rx} 431
Bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2
Bantam Chicken, {Rx} 237
Barracuda, a fish, {Rx} 158
Barley Broth, {Rx} 172, 200, 247
BARRICA, {Rx} 173
Barthelemy, J. J., writer, translator of Anacharsis, p. 8
Baseggio, G., editor, Apiciana, No. 13, p. 270
BASILICUM, basil
Bavarian Cabbage, {Rx} 87
Beans, {Rx} 96, 189, 194-8, 247; Green ---- {Rx} 247; ---- saute, {Rx} 203; ---- in mustard, {Rx} 204 ---- Baian style, {Rx} 202 ---- "Egyptian," see COLOCASIUM
Beauvilliers, A., French cook; cf. Styrio
Beef, p. 30; shortage of ---- diet, p. 30 ---- "Beef Eaters," p. 30 ---- dishes, {Rx} 351, seq.
Beets, {Rx} 70, 97, 98, 183 ---- named for Varro, {Rx} 70, 97, 98
Bernardinus, of Venice, printer, p. 258
Bernhold, J. M., editor, Apiciana, Nos. 2-3, 12-14, pp. 258, seq.
BETA, beet, which see BETACEOS VARRONES, {Rx} 70
Bibliographers of Apicius, see Apiciana
Birds, Book VI, {Rx} 210-227; treatment of strong-smelling ---- {Rx} 229, 230
BLITUM, a pot herb, the arrack or orage, also spinach, according to some interpreters
Boar, wild, {Rx} 329-38, p. 314
Boiled Dinners, {Rx} 125
BOLETAR, a dish for mushrooms, {Rx} 183
BOLETUS, mushroom, {Rx} 309-14
Bordelaise, {Rx} 351
Borrichius, Olaus, p. 268
BOTELLUS, (dim. of BOTULUS) small sausage, {Rx} 60. BOTULUS, a sausage, meat pudding, black pudding, {Rx} 60, 61, 172
BOUILLABAISSE, a fish stew of Marseilles, {Rx} 431, 481
Bouquet garni, {Rx} 138
BOVES, Beef cattle; cf. BUBULA
Bowls for mixing wine, etc., see Crater ---- for fruit or dessert, illustration, p. 61
Brain Sausage, {Rx} 45 ---- Custard, {Rx} 128 ---- and bacon, {Rx} 148 ---- and chicken with peas, {Rx} 198
Brandt, Edward, Editor, Commentator, {Rx} 29, 170, p. 273
BRASSICA, cabbage, kale; ---- CAMPESTRA, turnip; ---- OLERACEA, cabbage and kale; ---- MARINA, sea kale (?)
Bread, Alexandrine, {Rx} 126; Picentian ----, {Rx} 125. The methods of grinding flour and baking is illustrated with our illustrations of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii and the Slaves grinding flour, which see, pp. 142, 149. Apicius has no directions for baking, an art that was as highly developed in his days as was cookery
BREVIS PIMENTORUM, facsimile, p. 234
Brissonius, writer, quoting Lambecius, {Rx} 376
Broiler and Stove, illustration, p. 182
Broth, see LIQUAMEN; Barley ----, {Rx} 172, 200, 201 ---- How to redeem a spoiled, {Rx} 9
BUBULA, Beef, flesh of oxen, p. 30, {Rx} 351, 352
BUBULUS CASEUS, cow's cheese
BUCCA, BUCCEA, mouth, cheek; also a bite, a morsel, a mouth-full; Fr. BOUCHEE; BUCELLA (dim.) a small bite, a dainty bit, delicate morsel; hence probably, Ger. "Buss'l" a little kiss and "busseln," to spoon, to kiss, in the Southern German dialect
BUCCELLATUM, a biscuit, Zwieback, soldier's bread, hard tack
BULBUS, a bulbous root, a bulb, onion, {Rx} 285, 304-8
BULBI FRICTI, {Rx} 308
BULLIRE, to boil; Fr. BOUILLIR
BUTYRUM, butter. Was little used in ancient households, except for cosmetics. Cows were expensive, climate and sanitary conditions interfered with its use in the Southern kitchen. The Latin butyrum is said to derive from the German Butter
C
CABBAGE, {Rx} 87-92, 103; p. 188 Bavarian, {Rx} 87 Ingenious way of cooking, {Rx} 88 Chartreuse, {Rx} 469
CACABUS, CACCABUS, a cook pot, marmite; see OLLA. Illustrations, pp. 183, 209, 223, 235. Hence: CACCABINA, dish cooked in a caccabus. See also SALACACCABIA, {Rx} 468. I Exc. 470
CAELIUS, see Coelius
CAEPA, CEPA, onion; ---- ARIDA, fresh onion; ---- ROTUNDA, round onion; ---- SICCA, dry o.; ---- ASCALONICA, young o. "scallion;" ---- PALLACANA or PALLICANA, a shallot, a special Roman variety
Calamary, cuttlefish, {Rx} 405, p. 343
CALAMENTHUM, cress, watercress
CALLUM, CALLUS (---- PORCINUM) tough skin, bacon skin, cracklings. {Rx} 9, 251, 255
CAMERINUM, town in Umbria, {Rx} 3, where Vermouth was made
CAMMARUS MARINUS, a kind of crab-fish, {Rx} 43
CANABINUM, CANNABINUM, hemp, hempen
CANCER, crab
Canning, {Rx} 23-24
CANTHARUS, illustrations, p. 231; p. 274
CAPON, {Rx} 166, 249; CAPONUM TESTICULI, {Rx} 166
CAPPAR, caper
CAPPARA, purslane, portulaca
CAPPARUS, CARABUS, {Rx} 397
CAPRA, she-goat, also mountain goat, chamois; Ger. GEMSE; {Rx} 346-8
Caramel coloring, {Rx} 55, 73, 119, 124, 146
CARDAMOMUM, cardamom, aromatic seed
CARDAMUM, nasturtium, cress
Cardoons, {Rx} 112-4
CARDUS, CARDUUS, cardoon, edible thistle, {Rx} 112-3
Careme, Antonin, The most talented French cook of the post-revolution period; his chartreuses compared, {Rx} 186, p. 35
CARENUM, CAROENUM, wine or must boiled down one third of its volume to keep it. {Rx} 35
CAREUM, CARUM, Carraway
CARICA (---- FICUS) a dried fig from Caria, a reduction made of the fig wine was used for coloring sauce, similar to our caramel color, which see
CARIOTA, CARYOTA, a kind of large date, figdate; also a wine, a date wine; {Rx} 35
CARO, flesh of animals, {Rx} 10; ---- SALSA, pickled meat
CAROTA, CAROETA, carrot; {Rx} 121-3
Carthusian monks, inventors of the CHARTREUSE, {Rx} 68, see also Careme
CARTILAGO, gristle, tendon, cartilage
CARYOPHYLLUS, clove
Casa di Forno, Pompeii, "House of the Oven," illustration, p. 2
CASEUS, cheese; {Rx} 125, 303; ---- BUBULUS, cow's cheese; ---- VESTINUS, {Rx} 126
CASTANEA, chestnut, {Rx} 183 seq.
Catesby, writer, {Rx} 322
Catfish, {Rx} 426
CATTABIA, see Salacaccabia
Caul Sausage, Kromeski, {Rx} 45
CAULICULOS, {Rx} 87-92; also Col-- cul-- and coliclus
Cauliflower, {Rx} 87
Caviare, see STYRIO
Celery, {Rx} 104
Celsinus, a Roman, {Rx} 376-7
CENA, COENA, a meal, a repast; CENULA, a light luncheon; ---- RECTA, a "regular" meal, a formal dinner, usually consisting of GUSTUS, appetizers and light ENTREES, the CENA proper which is the PIECE DE RESISTANCE and the MENSAE SECUNDAE, or desserts. The main dish was the CAPUT CENAE; the desserts were also called BELLARIA or MENSAE POMORUM, because they usually finished with fruit. Hence Horace's saying "AB OVO USQUE AD MALA" which freely translated and modernized means, "Everything from soup to nuts."
---- AUGURALIS, ---- PONTIFICALIS, ---- CAPITOLINA, ---- PERSICA, ----SYBARITICA, ---- CAMPANAE, ---- CEREALIS, ---- SALIARIS, ----TRIUMPHALIS, ---- POLINCTURA are all names for state dinners, official banquets, refined private parties each with its special significance which is hard to render properly into our language except by making a long story of it
---- PHILOSOPHICA, ---- PLATONICA, ---- LACONICA, ---- RUSTICA, ----CYNICA are all more or less skimpy affairs, while the ---- ICCI is that of a downright miser. ---- HECATES is a hectic meal, ----TERRESTRIS a vegetarian dinner, ---- DEUM, a home-cooked meal, and a ---- SATURNIA is one without imported dishes or delicacies, a national dinner
---- NOVENDIALIS is the feast given on the ninth day after the burial of a dead man when his ashes were scattered while yet warm and fresh. ---- DUBIA, {Rx} 139, is the "doubtful meal" which causes the conscientious physician Lister so much worry
The CENA, to be sure, was an evening meal, the PRANDIUM, a noon-day meal, a luncheon, any kind of meal; the JENTACULUM, a breakfast, an early luncheon; the MERENDA was a snack in the afternoon between the meals for those who had "earned" a bite
There are further CENAE, such as ---- DAPSILIS, ---- PELLOCIBILIS, ---- UNCTA, ---- EPULARIS, ---- REGALIS, all more or less generous affairs, and our list of classical and sonorous dinner names is by no means exhausted herewith. The variety of these names is the best proof of how seriously a meal was considered by the ancients, how much thought was devoted to its character and arrangements
CEPA, same as CAEPA, onion
CEPAEA, purslane, sea-purslane, portulaca
CEPUROS, Gr., gardener; title of Book III
CERASUM, cherry, Fr. CERISE; Cerasus is a city of Pontus (Black Sea) whence Lucullus imported the cherry to Rome
CEREBRUM, CEREBELLUM, brains, {Rx} 46
CEREFOLIUM, CAEREFOLIUM, chervil, Ger. KERBEL, Fr. CERFEUILLE
Cereto de Tridino, printer, see Tacuinus
CERVUS, stag, venison, {Rx} 339-45
Cesena, a town in Italy where there is an Apicius Ms.; Apiciana XII
CHAMAE, cockles
Chamois, {Rx} 346 seq.
Charcoal used for filtering, {Rx} 1
CHARTREUSE, {Rx} 68, 131, 145a, 186, 469-70; also see Carthusian monks and Careme
"Chasseur," {Rx} 263
Cheese, cottage, {Rx} 303; also see CASEUS
Cheltenham codex, Apiciana I
Cherries, {Rx} 22, see CERASUS
Chestnuts, {Rx} 183-84a
Chicken, PULLUS ---- forcemeat, {Rx} 50; ---- broth, 51; ---- fricasse, 56; ---- boiled, 235, 236, 242; ---- and dasheens, 244; ---- creamed, with paste, 247; ---- stuffed, 248, 199, 213-17, 235; ---- in cream, 250; ---- disjointed, 139, note 1; ---- Bantam, 237; ---- cold, in its own gravy, 237; ---- fried or saute, 236; ---- Guinea hen, 239; ---- Fricasse Varius, 245; ---- a la Fronto, 246; ---- Parthian style, 237; ---- and leeks, 238; ---- with laser, 240; ---- roast, 241; ---- and pumpkin, 243; ---- galantine, 249; ---- fried with cream sauce, 250; ---- Maryland, Wiener Backhaehndl, 250
Chick-peas, {Rx} 207-9; p. 247
Chimneys on pies, {Rx} 141
Chipolata garniture, {Rx} 378
CHOENIX, a measure,--2 SEXTARII, {Rx} 52
Chops, {Rx} 261
CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AUX MARRONS, {Rx} 92
Christina, Queen of Sweden, eating Apician dishes, pp. 37, 38
CHRYSOMELUM, CHRYSOMALUM, a sort of quince
CIBARIA, victuals, provisions, food; same as CIBUS. Hence CIBARIAE LEGES, sumptuary laws; CIBARIUM VAS, a vessel or container for food; CIBARIUS, relating to food; also CIBATIO, victualling, feeding, meal, repast
CIBARIUM ALBUM, white repast, white dish, blancmange. Fr. BLANC MANGER, "white eating." A very old dish. Platina gives a fine recipe for it; in Apicius it is not yet developed. The body of this dish is ground almonds and milk, thickened with meat jelly. Modern cornstarch puddings have no longer a resemblance to it; to speak of "chocolate" blancmange as we do, is a barbarism. Platina is proud of his C.A. He prefers it to any Apician dessert. We agree with him; the incomplete Apicius in Platina's and in our days has no desserts worth mentioning. A German recipe of the 13th century (in "Ein Buch von guter Spise") calls C.A. "Blamansier," plainly a corruption of the French. By the translation of C.A. into the French, the origin of the dish was obliterated, a quite frequent occurrence in French kitchen terminology
CIBORIUM, a drinking vessel
CIBUS, food, victuals, provender
CICER, chick-pea, small pulse, {Rx} 207-209
Cicero, famous Roman, {Rx} 409
CICONIA, stork. Although there is no direct mention of the C. as an article of diet it has undoubtedly been eaten same as crane, egrets, flamingo and similar birds
CINARA, CYNARA, artichoke
CINNAMONUM, cinnamon
CIRCELLOS ISICATOS, a sausage, {Rx} 65
CITREA MALA, citron; see CITRUM
CITREUS, citron tree
CITRUM, CITRIUM, the fruit of the CITREUS, citron, citrus, {Rx} 23, 81, 168. The citron tree is also MALUS MEDICA. "MALUS QUAE CITRIA VOCANTUR"; CONDITURA MALORUM MEDICORUM, Ap. Book I.; Lister thinks this is a cucumber
CITRUS, orange or lemon tree and their fruits. It is remarkable that Apicius does not speak of lemons, one of the most indispensable fruits in modern cookery which grow so profusely in Italy today. These were imported into Italy probably later. The ancients called a number of other trees CITRUS also, including the cedar, the very name of which is a corruption of CITRUS
Classic Cookery, pp. 16-17
CLIBANUS, portable oven; also a broad vessel for bread-making, a dough trough
CNECON, {Rx} 16
CNICOS, CNICUS, CNECUS, bastard saffron; also the blessed thistle
CNISSA, smoke or steam arising from fat or meat while roasting
COCHLEAE, snails, also sea-snails, "cockles," periwinkles, {Rx} 323-25. ---- LACTE PASTAE, milk-fed snails. COCHLEARIUM, a snail "farm," place where snails were raised and fattened for the table. Also a "spoonful," a measure of the capacity of a small shell, more properly, however, COCHLEAR, a spoon, a spoon-full, 1/4 cyathus, the capacity of a small shell, also, properly, a spoon for drawing snails out of the shells. COCHLEOLA, a small snail
COCOLOBIS, basil, basilica
COCTANA, COTANA, COTTANA, COTONA, a small dried fig from Syria
COCTIO, the act of cooking or boiling
COCTIVA CONDIMENTA, easy of digestion, not edible without cooking. COCTIVUS, soon boiled or roasted
COCTOR, cook, which see; same as COQUUS
COCULA, same as COQUA, a female cook
COCULUM, a cooking vessel
COCUS, COQUUS, cook, which see
Coelius, name of a person, erroneously attached to that of Apicius; also Caelius, p. 13
COLADIUM, --EDIUM, --ESIUM, --OESIUM, variations of COLOCASIUM, which see
Colander, illustration of a, p. 58
COLICULUS, CAULICULUS, a tender shoot, a small stalk or stem, {Rx} 87-92
COLO, to strain, to filter, cf. {Rx} 73
COLOCASIA, COLOCASIUM, the dasheen, or taro, or tanyah tuber, of which there are many varieties; the root of a plant known to the ancients as Egyptian Bean. Descriptions in the notes to the {Rx} 74, 154, 172, 200, 244 and 322
COLUM NIVARIUM, a strainer or colander for wine and other liquids. See illustration, p. 58
COLUMBA, female pigeon; COLUMBUS, the male; COLUMBULUS, --A, squab, {Rx} 220. Also used as an endearing term
Columella, writer on agriculture; ---- on bulbs, {Rx} 307; ---- mentioning Matius, {Rx} 167
COLYMBADES (OLIVAE), olives "swimming" in the brine; from COLYMBUS, swimming pool
Combination of dishes, {Rx} 46
Commentaries on Apicius, p. 272
Commodus, a Roman, {Rx} 197
Compote of early fruit, {Rx} 177
CONCHA, shellfish muscle, cockle scallop, pearl oyster; also the pearl itself, or mother-of-pearl; also any hollow vessel resembling a mussel shell (cf. illustration, p. 125) hence CONCHA SALIS PURI, a salt cellar. Hence also CONCHIS, beans or peas cooked "in the shell" or in the pod; and diminutives and variations: CONCHICLA FABA, (bean in the pod) for CONCHICULA, which is the same as CONCHIS and CONCICLA; {Rx} 194-98, 411. ---- APICIANA, {Rx} 195; ---- DE PISA, {Rx} 196; ---- COMMODIANA, {Rx} 197; ---- FARSILIS, {Rx} 199
CONCHICLATUS, {Rx} 199
CONCRESCO, grow together, run together, thicken, congeal, also curdle, etc., same as CONCRETIO, CONCRETUM
CONDIO, to salt, to season, to flavor; to give relish or zest, to spice, to prepare with honey or pepper, and also (since spicing does this very thing) to preserve
CONDITIO, laying up, preserving. CONDITIVUS, that which is laid up or preserved, same as CONDITUM
CONDITOR, one who spices. Ger. Konditor, a pastry maker
CONDIMENTARIUS, spice merchant, grocer
CONDIMENTUM, condiment, sauce, dressing, seasoning, pickle, anything used for flavoring, seasoning, pickling ---- VIRIDE green herbs, pot herbs; cf. CONDITURA. ---- PRO PELAMIDE, {Rx} 445; ---- PRO THYNNO, {Rx} 446; ---- IN PERCAM, {Rx} 447; ---- IN RUBELLIONEM, {Rx} 448; ---- RATIO CONDIENDI MURENAS, {Rx} 449; ---- LACERTOS, {Rx} 456; ---- PRO LACERTO ASSO, {Rx} 457; ---- THYNNUM ET DENTICEM, {Rx} 458; ---- DENTICIS, {Rx} 460; ---- IN DENTICE ELIXO, {Rx} 461; ---- AURATA, {Rx} 462; ---- IN AURATAM ASSAM, {Rx} 463; ---- SCORPIONES, {Rx} 464; ---- ANGUILLAM, {Rx} 466; ---- ALIUD ---- ANGUILLAE, {Rx} 467
CONDITUM, preserved, a preserve; cf. CONDIO; ---- MELIRHOMUM, {Rx} 2 ---- ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, {Rx} 3 ---- PARADOXUM, {Rx} 1 ---- VIOLARUM, {Rx} 5 ---- Paradoxum, facsimile of Vat. Ms., p. 253
CONDITURA, a pickle, a preserve, sauce, seasoning, marinade; the three terms, C., CONDITUM and CONDIMENTUM are much the same in meaning, and are used indiscriminately. They also designate sweet dishes and desserts of different kinds, including many articles known to us as confections. Hence the German, KONDITOR, for confectioner, pastry cook. Nevertheless, a general outline of the specific meanings of these terms may be gathered from observing the nature of the several preparations listed under these headings, particularly as follows: ---- ROSATUM, {Rx} 4; (cf. No. 5) ---- MELLIS, {Rx} 17; ---- UVARUM, {Rx} 20; ---- MALORUM PUNICORUM, {Rx} 21; ---- COTONIORUM, {Rx} 19; ---- FICUUM, PRUNORUM, PIRORUM, {Rx} 20; ---- MALORUM MEDICORUM, {Rx} 21; ---- MORORUM, {Rx} 25; ---- OLERUM, {Rx} 26; ---- RUMICIS, {Rx} 27; ---- LAPAE, {Rx} 27; ---- DURACINORUM, {Rx} 29; ---- PRUNORUM, etc., {Rx} 30 --in most of these instances corresponds to our modern "preserving"
CONGER, CONGRIO, CONGRUS, sea-eel, conger. CONGRUM QUEM ANTIATES BRUNCHUM APPELLANT,--Platina, cf. ANGUILLA. Plautus uses this fish name to characterize a very cunning person, a "slippery" fellow. A cook is thus called CONGRIO in one of his plays
CONILA, CUNILA, a species of the plant ORIGANUM, origany, wild marjoram. See SATUREIA
CONYZA, the viscous elecampane
Cook, COCUS, COQUUS is the most frequent form used, COCTOR, infrequent. COQUA, COCULA, female cook; though female cooks were few. The word is derived from COQUERE, to cook, which seems to be an imitation of the sound, produced by a bubbling mess
The cook's work place (formerly ATRIUM, the "black" smoky room) was the CULINA, the kitchen, hence in the modern Romance tongues CUISINE, CUCINA, COCINA. Those who work there are CUISINIERS, COCINEROS, the female a CUISINIERE, and so forth
The German and Swedish for "kitchen" are KUeCHE and KOeKET, but the words "cook" and "KOCH" are directly related to COQUUS
A self-respecting Roman cook, especially a master of the art, having charge of a crew, would assume the title of MAGIRUS, or ARCHIMAGIRUS, chief cook. This Greek--"MAGEIROS"--plainly shows the high regard in which Greek cookery stood in Rome. No American CHEF would think of calling himself "chief cook," although CHEF means just that. The foreign word sounds ever so much better both in old Rome and in new New York. MAGEIROS is derived from the Greek equivalent of the verb "to knead," which leads us to the art of baking. Titles and distinctions were plentiful in the ancient bakeshops, which plainly indicates departmentisation and division of labor
The PISTOR was the baker of loaves, the DULCIARIUS the cake baker, using honey for sweetening. Martial says of the PISTOR DULCIARIUS, "that hand will construct for you a thousand sweet figures of art; for it the frugal bee principally labors." The PANCHESTRARIUS, mentioned in Arnobius, is another confectioner. The LIBARIUS still another of the sweet craft. The CRUSTULARIUS and BOTULARIUS were a cookie baker and a sausage maker respectively
The LACTARIUS is the milkman; the PLACENTARIUS he who makes the PLACENTA, a certain pancake, also a kind of cheese cake, often presented during the Saturnalia. The SCRIBLITARIUS belongs here, too: in our modern parlance we would perhaps call these two "ENTREMETIERS." The SCRIBLITA must have been a sort of hot cake, perhaps an omelet, a pancake, a dessert of some kind, served hot; maybe just a griddle cake, baked on a hot stone, a TORTILLA--what's the use of guessing! but SCRIBLITAE were good, for Plautus, in one of his plays, Poenulus, shouts, "Now, then, the SCRIBLITAE are piping hot! Come hither, fellows!" Not all of them did eat, however, all the time, for Posidippus derides a cook, saying, CUM SIS COQUUS, PROFECTUS EXTRA LIMEN ES, CUM NON PRIUS COENAVERIS, "What? Thou art a cook, and hast gone, without dinner, over the threshold?"
From the FOCARIUS, the scullion, the FORNACARIUS, the fireman, or furnace tender, and the CULINARIUS, the general kitchen helper to the OBSONATOR, the steward, the FARTOR to the PRINCEPS COQUORUM, the "maitre d'hotel" of the establishment we see an organization very much similar to our own in any well-conducted kitchen
The Roman cooks, formerly slaves in the frugal days of the nation, rose to great heights of civic importance with the spread of civilization and the advance of luxury in the empire. Cf. "The Role of the Mageiroi in the Life of the Ancient Greeks" by E. M. Rankin, Chic., 1907, and "Roman Cooks" by C. G. Harcum, Baltimore, 1914, two monographs on this subject
Cookery, Apician, as well as modern c., discussed in the critical review of the Apicius book ---- examples of deceptive c. in Apicius, {Rx} 6, 7, 9, 17, 229, 230, 384, 429 ---- of flavoring and spicing, {Rx} 15, 277, 281, 369 ---- deserving special mention for ingenuity and excellence, {Rx} 15, 21, 22, 72, 88, 177, 186, 212, 213, 214, 250, 287, 315, 428 ---- modern Jewish, resembling Apicius, {Rx} 204 seq. ---- examples of attempts to remove disagreeable odors, {Rx} 212-14, 229, 230, 292 ---- removing sinews from fowl, {Rx} 213 ---- utensils, p. 15
Coote, C. T., commentator, pp. 19, 273
COPA, a woman employed in eating places and taverns, a bar maid, a waitress, an entertainer, may be all that in one person. One of the caricatures drawn on a tavern wall in Pompeii depicts a COPA energetically demanding payment for a drink from a reluctant customer, p. 7
COPADIA, dainties, delicate bits, {Rx} 125, 179, 180, 271, 276, seq., 355
Copper in Vegetable Cookery, {Rx} 66
Copyists and their work, p. 14
COQUINA, cooking, kitchen. COQUINARIS, --IUS, relating to the kitchen. COQUO, --IS, COXI, COCTUM, COQUERE, to cook, to dress food, to function in the kitchen, to prepare food for the table. See cook
COR, heart
CORDYLA, CORDILLA, {Rx} 419, 423
CORIANDRUM, the herb coriander; CORIANDRATUM, flavored with c.; LIQUAMEN EX CORIANDRO, coriander essence or extract
Corn, green, {Rx} 99
CORNUM, cornel berry; "CORNA QUAE VERGILIUS LAPIDOSA VOCAT"--Platina
CORNUTUS, horn-fish, {Rx} 442
CORRUDA, the herb wild sparrage, or wild asparagus
CORVUS, a kind of sea-fish, according to some the sea-swallow. Platina describes it as a black fish of the color of the raven (hence the name), and ranks it among the best of fish, cf. STURNUS
COTANA, see COCTANA
COTICULA (CAUDA?), minor cuts of pork, either spareribs, pork chops, or pig's tails
COTONEA, a herb of the CUNILA family, wallwort, comfrey or black bryony
COTONEUM, COTONEUS, COTONIUS, CYDONIUS, quince-apple, {Rx} 163
COTULA, COTYLA, a small measure, 1/2 sextarius
COTURNIX, quail
COSTUM, COSTUS, costmary; fragrant Indian shrub, the root of burning taste but excellent flavor
Court-bouillon, {Rx} 37, 138
Cow-parsnips, p. 188, {Rx} 115-122, 183
COXA, {Rx} 288
Crabs, {Rx} 485; crabmeat croquettes, {Rx} 44
Cracklings, p. 285, {Rx} 255
Crane, {Rx} 212, 213, p. 265. Crane with turnips, {Rx} 214-17
CRATER, CRATERA, a bowl or vessel to mix wine and water; also a mixing bowl and oil container--see illustrations, p. 140
CRATICULA, grill, gridiron; illustration, p. 182
Creme renversee, {Rx} 129, 143
CREMORE, DE--, {Rx} 172
CRETICUM HYSOPUM, {Rx} 29, Cretan hyssop
CROCUS, --OS, --ON, --UM, saffron; hence CROCEUS, saffron-flavored, saffron sauce or saffron essence. CROCIS, a certain herb or flavor, perhaps saffron
Croquettes, {Rx} 42, seq.
Cucumber, CUCUMIS, {Rx} 82-84
CUCURBITA, pumpkin, gourd, {Rx} 73-80, 136
CULINA, kitchen; CULINARIUS, man employed in the kitchen; pertaining to the kitchen
CULTER, a knife for carving or killing; the blade from 9 to 13 inches long
CUMANA, earthen pot or dish; casserole, {Rx} 237
Cumberland sauce, {Rx} 345
CUMINUM, CYMINUM, cumin; CUMINATUM, --US, sauce or dish seasoned with cumin, {Rx} 39, 40. Aethiopian, Libyan, and Syriac cumin are named, {Rx} 178
CUNICULUS, rabbit, cony
CUNILAGO, a species of origany, flea-bane, wild marjoram, basilica
CUPELLUM, CUPELLA, dim., of CUPA, a small cask or tun. Ger. KUFE; a "cooper" is a man who makes them
CURCUMA ZEODARIA, turmeric
Custard, brain, {Rx} 27; ---- nut, {Rx} 128, 142; ---- of vegetables and brain, {Rx} 130; ---- of elderberries, {Rx} 134; ---- rose, {Rx} 135; see also {Rx} 301
Cutlets, {Rx} 261, 471-3
Cuttle-fish, {Rx} 42, 406-8
CYAMUS, Egyptian bean
CYATHUS, a measure, for both things liquid and things dry, which according to Pliny 21.109, amounted to 10 drachms, and, according to Rhem. Fann. 80., was the 12th part of a SEXTARIUS, roughly one twelfth pint. Also a goblet, and a vessel for mixing wine, {Rx} 131
CYDONIIS, PATINA DE, {Rx} 163, see also Malus
CYMA, young sprout, of colewort or any other herb; also cauliflower, {Rx} 87-9-92
CYPERUS, CYPIRUS, a sort of rush with roots like ginger, see MEDIUM
CYRENE, a city of Africa, famous for its Laser Cyrenaicum, the best kind of laser, which see. Also Kyrene
D
DACTYLIS, long, "finger-like" grape or raisin; --US, long date, fruit of a date tree, {Rx} 30
DAMA, a doe, deer, also a gazelle, antilope (DORCAS). In some places the chamois of the Alps is called DAMA
DAMASCENA [PRUNA], plum or prune from Damascus, {Rx} 30. Either fresh or dried
Danneil, E., editor, pp. 33-34, 35, 271
Dasheen, {Rx} 74, 152, 172, 216, 244, 322
Dates, stuffed, {Rx} 294
DAUCUM, --US, --ON, a carrot
DE CHINE, see Dasheen
"Decline of the West," p. 17
DECOQUO, to boil down
DEFRUTARIUS, one who boils wine; CELLA DEFRUTARIA, a cellar where this is done, or where such wine is kept
DEFRUTUM, DEFRICTUM, DEFRITUM, new wine boiled down to one half of its volume with sweet herbs and spices to make it keep. Used to flavor sauces, etc., see also Caramel color
DENTEX, a sparoid marine fish, "Tooth-Fish," {Rx} 157, 459-60
Dessert Dishes, illustrations, pp. 61, 125
Desserts, absent, p. 43
Desserts, Apician, {Rx} 143, 294, seq.
DIABOTANON PRO PISCE FRIXO, {Rx} 432
Diagram of Apician editions, p. 252
Didius Julianus, {Rx} 178
Dierbach, H. J., commentator, p. 273
Dining in Apician style, modern, p. 37 ---- in Rome, compared with today, pp. 17, 18
Diocles, writer, {Rx} 409
Dionysos Cup, illustration, p. 141
Dipper, illustrated, p. 3
DISCUS, round dish, plate or platter
Disguising foods, {Rx} 133, pp. 33-4
Distillation, see Vinum
Dormouse, {Rx} 396
Dory, {Rx} 157, 462-5
Doves, p. 265
Drexel, Theodor, collector, pp. 257-8
Dubois, Urbain, chef, p. 16
Duck, p. 265, {Rx} 212-3; ---- with turnips, {Rx} 214-7
DULCIA, sweets, cookies, confections, {Rx} 16, 216, 294-6 --RIUS, pastry cook, {Rx} 294
Dumas, Alexandre, cooking, p. 24
Dumpling of pheasant, {Rx} 48; ---- and HYDROGARUM, {Rx} 49; ---- with broth, plain, {Rx} 52, 181
DURACINUS, hard-skinned, rough-skinned fruit; ---- PERSICA, the best sort of peach, according to some, nectarines, {Rx} 28
E
Early fruit, stewed, {Rx} 177
ECHINUS, sea-urchin, {Rx} 412-17
Economical methods: flavoring, {Rx} 15
EDO, to eat; great eater, gormandizer, glutton
EDULA, chitterlings
Eel, {Rx} 466-7
Egg Dish, illustration, p. 93
Eggs, {Rx} 326-28; ---- fried, {Rx} 336; ---- boiled, {Rx} 327; ---- poached, {Rx} 328; ---- scrambled with fish and oysters, {Rx} 159
Eglantine, {Rx} 171
Egyptian Bean, {Rx} 322; also see CYAMUS
EIERKAeSE, {Rx} 125, 301
ELAEOGARUM, {Rx} 33
Elderberry custard, {Rx} 135
ELIXO, to boil, boil down, reduce. --US, --UM, boiled down, sodden, reduced. According to Platina an ELIXUM simply is a meat bouillon as it is made today. ELIXATIO, a court-bouillon, liquid boiled down; ELIXATURA, a reduction
EMBAMMA, a marinade, a pickle or sauce to preserve food, to give it additional flavor; same as INTINCTUS, {Rx} 344
EMBRACTUM, EMPHRACTUM, a dish "covered over"; a casserole of some kind. E. BAIANUM, {Rx} 431
Endives, {Rx} 109
Enoche of Ascoli, medieval scholar, cf. Apiciana
Entrees, potted, {Rx} 54, 55; ---- sauces, {Rx} 56; ---- of fish, poultry and sausage, {Rx} 139; ---- of fowl and livers, {Rx} 175
EPIMELES, careful, accurate; choice things. Title of Book I
Erasmus of Rotterdam, Dialogue, p. 273
ERUCA, the herb rocket, a colewort, a salad plant, a mustard plant
ERVUM, a kind of pulse like vetches or tares
ESCA, meat, food, victuals; ESCO, to eat
Escoffier, A. modern chef, writer, {Rx} 338
ESCULENTES, things good to eat
ESTRIX, she-glutton
ESUS, eating
Every Day Dishes, {Rx} 128, 142
EXCERPTA A VINIDARIO, p. 235
Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius, pp. 21, 234
EXCOQUO, to boil out, to melt, to render (fats)
F
FABA, bean, pulse. ---- AEGYPTIACA, {Rx} 322; ---- IN FRIXORIO, string beans in the frying pan, Fr.: HARICOTS VERTS SAUTES; ---- VITELLIANA, {Rx} 189, 193
FABACIAE VIRIDES, green bean, {Rx} 202; ---- FRICTAE, {Rx} 203; ---- EX SINAPI, {Rx} 204
Fabricius, Albertus, bibliographer, pp. 258, seq., 268
"Fakers" of manuscripts, p. 13
FALSCHER HASE, {Rx} 384
FAR, corn or grain of any kind, also spelt; also a sort of coarse meal
Farce, forcemeat, {Rx} 131
FARCIMEN, sausage, {Rx} 62-64
FARCIO, to fill, to stuff; also to feed by force, cram, fatten
FARINA, meal, flour, {Rx} 173; --OSUS, mealy
FARNEI FUNGI, {Rx} 309
FARRICA, {Rx} 173
FASEOLUS, PHASEOLUS, a bean; Ger.: Fisole, {Rx} 207
FARSILIS, FARTILIS, a rich dish, something crammed or fattened, {Rx} 131
FARTOR, sausage maker; keeper of animals to be fattened, {Rx} 166, 366
FARTURA, the fattening of animals; also the dressing used to stuff the bodies in roasting, forcemeat, {Rx} 166, 366
FATTENING FOWL, {Rx} 166, 366
FENICOPTERO, IN, {Rx} 220, 231
FENICULUM, FOENI--, fennel
FENUM GRAECUM, FOEN--; the herb fenugreek, also SILICIA, {Rx} 206
FERCULUM, a frame or tray on which several dishes were brought in at once, hence a course of dishes
FERULA, a rod or branch, fennel-giant; ---- ASA FOETIDA, same as LASERPITIUM
FICATUM, fed or stuffed with figs, {Rx} 259-60
FICEDULA, small bird, figpecker, {Rx} 132
FICUS, fig, fig tree, FICULA, small fig
Field herbs, {Rx} 107; Field salad, {Rx} 110; a dish of field vegetables, {Rx} 134
Fieldfare, a bird, {Rx} 497
Fig-fed pork, p. 285, {Rx} 259
Figpecker, a bird, {Rx} 132
Figs, to preserve, {Rx} 22
Filets Mignons, {Rx} 262
Filtering liquors, {Rx} 1
Financiere garniture, {Rx} 166, 378
Fine ragout of brains and bacon, {Rx} 147
Fine spiced wine, {Rx} 1
Fish cookery, "The Fisherman," title of Book X; ---- boiled, {Rx} 432, 4, 5, 6, 455; ---- fried, herb sauce, {Rx} 433; ---- to preserve fried fish, {Rx} 13; ---- with cold dressing, {Rx} 486; ---- baked, {Rx} 476-7; ---- balls in wine sauce, {Rx} 145, 164; ---- fond, {Rx} 155; a dish of any kind of ----, {Rx} 149, 150, 156; ---- au gratin, {Rx} 143; ---- loaf, {Rx} 429; ---- liver pudding, {Rx} 429; ---- pickled, spiced, marinated, {Rx} 480; ---- oysters and eggs, {Rx} 157; ---- salt, any style, {Rx} 430, 431; ---- stew, {Rx} 153, 432; ---- sauce, acid, {Rx} 38-9
FISKE BOLLER, {Rx} 145, 41, seq.
Flaccus, a Roman, {Rx} 372
Flamingo, {Rx} 220, 231-2
Flavors and spices, often referred to, especially in text; instances of careful flavoring, {Rx} 15, 276-77. Flavoring with faggots, {Rx} 385, seq.
Florence Mss. Apiciana VI, VII, VIII, IX
FLORES SAMBUCI, elder blossoms
Fluvius Hirpinus, Roman, {Rx} 323, 396; a man interested in raising snails, dormice, etc., for the table
FOCUS, hearth, range; unusually built of brick, on which the CRATICULA stood. Cf. illustrations, p. 182
FOLIUM, leaf, aromatic leaves such as laurel, etc. ---- NARDI, several kinds, nard leaf. The Indian nard furnishes nard oil, the Italian lavender
FONDULI, see SPHONDULI, {Rx} 114, 121
Food adulterations, pp. 33, 34
Food disguising and adulteration, p. 33, {Rx} 6, 7, 134, 147; ---- displayed in Pompeii, p. 7
Forcemeats, {Rx} 42, 172
Fowl, p. 265; a dish of, {Rx} 470; ---- and livers, {Rx} 174; various dishes and sauce, {Rx} 218, seq. Picking ----, {Rx} 233; Removing disagreeable odors from ----, {Rx} 229-30
French Dressing, {Rx} 112
French Toast, {Rx} 296
FRETALE, FRIXORIUM, FRICTORIUM, frying pan, illustrations, pp. 355, 366; cf. SARTAGO
FRICTELLA, fritter; "A FRICTO DICI NULLA RATIO OBSTAT"--Platina. Ger. "Frikadellen" for meat balls fried in the pan. "De OFFELLIS, QUAS VEL FRICTELLAS LICET APPELLARE"--Platina
FRICTORIUM, FRIXORIUM, same as FRETALE, frying pan
FRISILIS, FRICTILIS, FUSILIS, {Rx} 131
FRITTO MISTO (It.), {Rx} 46
Friture, (Fr.) frying fat, {Rx} 42, seq.
FRIXUS, roast, fried, also dried or parched, term which causes some confusion in the several editions
Frontispice, 2nd Lister Edition, illustration, p. 156
Fronto, a Roman, {Rx} 246, 374
FRUGES, farinaceous dishes
Fruit dishes, {Rx} 64, 72; Fruits, p. 210; ---- dried, Summary, p. 370 ---- Bowl illustration, pp. 61, 125
FRUMENTUM, grain, wheat or barley
Frying, {Rx} 42, seq.
Frying pans, illustrated, cf. FRETALE and SARTAGO
Fulda Ms., cf. Apiciana
FUNGUS, mushroom; --ULUS, small m.; see BOLETUS ---- FARNEI, {Rx} 309, seq.
FURCA, a two-pronged fork; --ULA, --ILLA (dim.) a small fork. FUSCINA, --ULA, a three-pronged fork. Cf. "Forks and Fingerbowls as Milestones in Human Progress," by the author, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation's Chefs, Chicago, Aug., 1933, pp. 84-87
FURNUS, oven, bake oven. See illustration, p. 2
G
Galen, writer, {Rx} 396, 410
GALLINA, hen; --ULA, little hen; --ARIUS, poulterer
GALLUS, cock
Game of all kinds, sauce for, {Rx} 349 ---- birds, {Rx} 218, seq.
GANONAS CRUDAS, fish, {Rx} 153
GARATUM, prepared with GARUM, which see
Gardener, The--Title of Book III, {Rx} 377
GARUM (Gr.: GARON) a popular fish sauce made chiefly of the scomber or mackerel, but formerly from the GARUS, hence the name, cf. p. 22, {Rx} 10, 33, 471
Mackerel is the oiliest fish, and plentiful, very well suited for the making of G.
G. was also a pickle made of the blood and the gills of the tunny and of the intestines of mackerel and other fish. The intestines were exposed to the sun and fermented. This has stirred up controversies; the ancients have been denounced for the "vile concoctions," but garum has been vindicated by modern science as to its rational preparation and nutritive qualities. Codfish oil, for instance, has long been known for its medicinal properties, principally Vitamin D; this is being increased today by exposure to ultraviolet rays (just what the ancients did). The intestines are the most nutritious portions of fish
G. still remains a sort of mystery. Its exact mode of preparation is not known. It was very popular and expensive, therefore was subject to a great number of variations in quality and in price, and to adulteration. For all these reasons GARUM has been the subject of much speculation. It appears that the original meaning of G. became entirely lost in the subsequent variations
In 1933 Dr. Margaret B. Wilson sent the author a bottle of GARUM ROMANUM which she had compounded according to the formulae at her disposal. This was a syrupy brown liquid, smelled like glue and had to be dissolved in water or wine, a few drops of the G. to a glass of liquid, of which, in turn, only a few drops were used to flavor a fish sauce, etc.
---- SOCIORUM, the best kind of G.; ALEXGARI VITIUM, the cheap kind of G., cf. ALEX, HALEC. OENOGARUM, G. mixed with wine; HYDROGARUM G. mixed with water; OLEOGARUM, G. mixed with oil; OXYGARUM, G. mixed with vinegar
GARUS, small fish from which the real GARUM was made
GELO, cause to freeze, to congeal; GELU, jelly GELU IN PATINA, gelatine: "QUOD VULGO GELATINAM VOCAMUS"--Platina
Georg, Carl, Bibliographer, p. 257
Gesamt-Katalog, bibliography, p. 261
Gesner, Conrad, Swiss scientist, bibliographer, polyhistor, see Schola Apitiana, p. 206
GETHYUM, --ON, same as PALLACANA, an onion
Giarratano, C., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 19, 26, 271, 273
GINGIBER, ginger; also ZINGIBER, faulty reading of the "G" by medieval scribes
GINGIDON, --IUM, a plant of Syria; according to Spengel the French carrot. Paulus Aegineta says: "BISACUTUM (SIC ENIM ROMANI GINGIDION APPELLANT) OLUS EST SCANDICI NON ABSIMILE," hence a chervil root, or parsnip, or oysterplant
GLANDES, any kernel fruit, a date, a nut, etc.
Glasse, Mrs. Hannah, writer, {Rx} 127
GLIS, pl. GLIRES, dormouse, a small rodent, very much esteemed as food. GLIRARIUM, cage or place where they were kept or raised, {Rx} 396
Gluttons, p. 11
Goat, wild, {Rx} 346, seq. ---- liver, {Rx} 291-3
Gollmer, R., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 35, 270
GONG for slaves, illustration, p. 151
Goose, p. 265; white sauce for, {Rx} 228
Grapes, to keep, {Rx} 19
Greek influence on Roman cookery, p. 12, seq. ---- Banquet, by Anacharsis, p. 8
Greek monographs, p. 43
Green beans, p. 247, {Rx} 202, 206
Greens, green vegetables, {Rx} 99
Grimod de la Reyniere, writer, p. 4, cf. Mappa
Gruel, p. 210; {Rx} 172, 200-1, seq. ---- and wine, {Rx} 179-80
GRUS, crane; GRUEM, {Rx} 212-3; ---- EX RAPIS, {Rx} 215-6
Gryphius, S., printer, Apiciana No. 6, facsimile of title, p. 263
Guegan, Bertrand, editor, p. 271, seq.
Guinea Hen, {Rx} 239, cf. "Turkey Origin," by the author, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation's Chefs, for February and March, 1935, Chicago
GULA, gluttony
GUSTUS, taste; also appetizers and relishes and certain entrees of a meal, Hors d'oeuvres. Cf. CENA, {Rx} 174-77
H
Habs, R., writer, p. 18
HAEDUS, HAEDINUS, kid, {Rx} 291-3, 355, seq. ---- SYRINGIATUS, {Rx} 360; ---- PARTHICUM, {Rx} 364; ---- TARPEIANUM, {Rx} 363; ---- LAUREATUM EX LACTE, {Rx} 365; ---- LASARATUM, {Rx} 496
HALEC, see ALEC
HALIEUS, HALIEUTICUS, pertaining to fish; title of Book X, p. 356
Ham, fresh, p. 285, {Rx} 287-9
HAND-MILL, operated by Slaves, illustration, p. 60
HAPANTAMYNOS, {Rx} 497
Harcum, C. G., writer, see COQUUS
Hard-skinned peaches, to keep, {Rx} 28
Hare, B. VIII, {Rx} 382, seq. ---- imitation, {Rx} 384; ---- braised, {Rx} 382-3; ---- different dressings, {Rx} 383; ---- Stuffed, {Rx} 384, 91; ---- white sauce for, {Rx} 385; ---- lights of, {Rx} 386-7; ---- liver, {Rx} 170; ---- in its own broth, {Rx} 388; ---- smoked Passenianus, {Rx} 389; ---- tidbits, kromeskis, {Rx} 390; ---- boiled, {Rx} 393; ---- spiced sauce, {Rx} 393; ---- sumptuous style, {Rx} 394; ---- spiced, {Rx} 395
Haricot of lamb, {Rx} 355
HARPAGO, a meat hook for taking boiled meat out of the pot, with five or more prongs; hence "harpoon." Cf. FURCA
"Haut-gout" in birds, to overcome it, {Rx} 229-30
Headcheese, {Rx} 125
Heathcock, {Rx} 218, seq.
HELENIUM, plant similar to thyme(?); the herb elecampane or starwort
Heliogabalus, emperor, p. 11
HEMINA, a measure, about half a pint
Henry VIII, of England, edict on kitchens, p. 156
HERBAE RUSTICAE, {Rx} 107
Herbs, pot herbs, to keep, {Rx} 25
Hildesheim Treasure, found in 1868, a great collection of Roman silverware, now in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin, our illustrations show a number of these pieces, p. 43
Hip, dog-briar, {Rx} 171
HIRCOSIS AVIBUS, DE, {Rx} 229-30
Hirpinus, Fluvius, Roman, {Rx} 323, 396, who raised animals for the table
HISPANUM, see Oleum
HOEDUS, see HAEDUS
HOLERA, pot herbs, {Rx} 25, 66; also OLERA and HOLISERA, from HOLUS
HOLUS, OLUS, kitchen vegetables, particularly cabbage, {Rx} 99
Home-made sweets, {Rx} 294
Honey cakes, {Rx} 16
Honey Refresher, {Rx} 2; ---- cake, {Rx} 16; ---- to renew spoiled, {Rx} 17; testing quality of, {Rx} 18; ---- pap, {Rx} 181; see also Chap. XIII, Book VII
Horace, writer, pp. 3, 4, 273, {Rx} 455
HORDEUM, barley
Horned fish, {Rx} 442
Hors d'oeuvres, {Rx} 174; cf. GUSTUS
HORTULANUS, gardener, Hortolanus, pork, {Rx} 378
Horseradish, {Rx} 102
House of the Oven in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2
Humelbergius, Gabriel, editor, {Rx} 307; title page of his 1542 edition, p. 265
Hunter style, {Rx} 263
HYDROGARATA, foods, sauces prepared with GARUM (which see) and water, {Rx} 172
HYDROMELI, rain water and honey boiled down one third
HYPOTRIMA, --IMMA, a liquid dish, soup, sauce, ragout, composed of many spiced things, {Rx} 35
HYSITIUM, ISICIUM, a mince, a hash, a sausage, forcemeat, croquette, {Rx} 41-56. The term "croquette" used by Gollmer does not fully cover H.; some indeed, resemble modern croquettes and kromeskis very closely. The ancients, having no table forks and only a few knives (which were for the servants' use in carving) were fond of such preparations as could be partaken of without table ware. The reclining position at table made it almost necessary for them to eat H.; such dishes gave the cooks an opportunity for the display of their skill, inventive ability, their decorative and artistic sense. As "predigested" food, such dishes are decided preferable to the "_grosses-pieces_," which besides energetic mastication require skillful manipulation of fork and knife; such exercise was unwelcome on the Roman couches. Modern nations, featuring "_grosses-pieces_" do this at the expense of high-class cookery. The word, H., is probably a medieval graecification of INSICIUM. Cf. ISICIA
HYSSOPUS, the herb hyssop; H. CRETICUS, marjoram. Also Hysopum creticum, hyssop from the island of Creta, {Rx} 29
I
IECUR, JECUR, liver; {Rx} 291-3. IECUSCULUM, small (poultry, etc.) liver
Ihm, Max, writer, p. 19
Ill-smelling fish sauce, {Rx} 9; ditto birds, {Rx} 229-30
Indian peas, {Rx} 187
Ink-fish, {Rx} 405
INSICIA, chopped meat, sausage, forcemeat, dressing, stuffing for roasts, {Rx} 42; see Hysitia and Isicia; --ARIUS, sausage maker
INTINCTUS, a sauce, seasoning, brine or pickle in which meat, etc., is dipped. See EMBAMMA, {Rx} 344
INTUBUS, INTYBUS, --UM, chicory, succory, endive, {Rx} 109
INULA HELENIUM, the herb elecampane or starwort
ISICIA, see HYSITIA, {Rx} 41-54, 145 ---- AMULATA AB AHENO, {Rx} 54; ---- DE CAMMARIS, {Rx} 43; ---- DE CEREBELLIS, {Rx} 45; ---- DE LOLLIGINE, {Rx} 42; ---- DE SPONDYLIS, {Rx} 46; ---- DE PULLO, {Rx} 50; ---- DE SCILLIS, {Rx} 43; ---- HYDROGARATA, {Rx} 49; ---- PLENA, {Rx} 48; ---- SIMPLEX, {Rx} 52; ---- DE TURSIONE, {Rx} 145
Italian Salad, {Rx} 123
IUS, JUS, any juice or liquid, or liquor derived from food, a broth, soup, sauce. IUSCELLUM, more frequently and affectionately, IUSCULUM, the diminutive of I. ---- DE SUO SIBI, pan-gravy; such latinity as this proves the genuineness of the Apicius text, {Rx} 153; ---- IN DIVERSIS AVIBUS, {Rx} 210-228; ---- IN ELIXAM, {Rx} 271-7; ---- IN VENATIONIBUS, {Rx} 349, seq. ---- DIABOTANON, {Rx} 432; ---- IN PISCE ELIXO, {Rx} 433-6; ---- ALEXANDRINUM, {Rx} 437-9; ---- CONGRO, {Rx} 440; ---- IN CORNUTAM, {Rx} 441; ---- IN MULLOS, {Rx} 442-3; ---- PELAMYDE, {Rx} 444; ---- IN PERCAM, {Rx} 446; ---- IN MURENA, {Rx} 448, 449-52; ---- IN PISCE ELIXO, {Rx} 454; ---- IN LACERTOS ELIXOS, {Rx} 455; ---- PISCE ASSO, {Rx} 456; ---- THYNNO, {Rx} 457; ---- ELIXO, {Rx} 458; ---- IN DENTICE ASSO, {Rx} 459-60; ---- IN PISCE AURATA, {Rx} 461-2; ---- IN SCORPIONE, {Rx} 463; ---- PISCE OENOGARUM, {Rx} 464-5; ---- ANGUILLAM, {Rx} 466-7
J
Jardiniere, {Rx} 378
JECINORA, {Rx} 291
Jewish Cookery, compared with Apician, {Rx} 205
Johannes de Cereto de Tridino, Venetian printer, p. 261
John of Damascus, see Torinus edition of 1541, Basel
Julian Meal Mush, {Rx} 178
K
Keeping meat and fish, {Rx} 10-14, seq.
Kettner, writer, p. 38
Kid, p. 314, {Rx} 355, seq. ---- liver, {Rx} 291-93; ---- stew, {Rx} 355-8; ---- roast, {Rx} 359-62; ---- boned, {Rx} 360-1; ---- Tarpeius, {Rx} 363-4; ---- Prize, {Rx} 365; ---- plain, {Rx} 366; ---- laser, {Rx} 496
Kidney beans, {Rx} 207-8
King, Dr. W., writer, quoted: Introduction, pp. 38, 267
Kromeskis, {Rx} 44, 47, 60; cf. ISICIA and HYSITIA
Kyrene, Cyrene, City of Northern Africa, see Laser
L
Labor item in cookery, pp. 18, 24
LAC, milk; ---- FISSILE, cottage cheese
LACERTUS, a sea-fish, not identified, {Rx} 147, 152, 455-7
LACTARIS, having milk, made of milk; --IUS, dairyman
LACTES, small guts, chitterlings
LACTUA, LACTUCULA, lettuce, {Rx} 105, 109-11
LAGANUM, a certain farinaceous dish; small cake made of flour and oil, a pan cake
LAGENA, --ONA, --OENA, --UNA, flask, bottle
Lamb, {Rx} 291-3, 355-65, 495-6; preparations same as Kid, which see
Lambecius, Petrus, writer, on "The Porker's Last Will," {Rx} 376
Lanciani, Rodolfo, writer, pp. 29, 30
Lancilotus, Blasius, co-editor, 1498-1503 editions, pp. 27-30, 41 --see also Tacuinus --facsimile of opening chapter, 1503, p. 232
Langoust, {Rx} 485
LANX, broad platter, dish, charger, {Rx} 455
LAPA, LAPATHUM, LAPADON, same as RUMEX, {Rx} 26
Larding, {Rx} 394
LARIDUM, LARDUM, {Rx} 147, 290; cf. SALSUM
LASER, LASERPITIUM, --ICIUM, the juice or distillate of the herb by that name, also known as SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, Greek, SYLPHION. Some agree that this is our present asa foetida, while other authorities deny this. Some claim its home is in Persia, while others say the best LASER came from Cyrene (Kyrene), Northern Africa. The center picture of the so-called Arkesilas-Bowl of Vulci at Paris, Cab. d. Med. 189, represents a picture as seen by the artist in Kyrene how King Arkesilas (VI. saec.) watches the weighing and the stowing away in the hold of a sailing vessel of a costly cargo of sylphium. It was an expensive and very much esteemed flavoring agent, and, for that reason, the plant which grew only in the wild state, was probably exterminated
There is much speculation, but its true nature will not be revealed without additional information
{Rx} 15, 31, 32, 34, 100; p. 22
Method of flavoring with laser-impregnated nuts, {Rx} 15
LASERATUS, LASARATUS, prepared or seasoned with LASER, or SILPHIUM
Latin title of Vehling translation, opposite title page
LAUREATUM, prepared with LAURUS; also in the sense of excellence in quality, {Rx} 365, 373
LAURUS CINNAMOMUM, cinnamon; ---- NOBILIS, laurel leaf, bay leaf
La Varenne, French cook, p. 16
Laws, sumptuary, p. 25, {Rx} 166
Laxatives, {Rx} 4, 5, 6, 29, 34
Leeks, p. 188, {Rx} 93-6; ---- and beans, {Rx} 96
LEGUMEN, leguminous plants; all kinds of pulse-peas, beans lentils, etc., Book V
LENS, LENTICULA, lentils, {Rx} 183-4
LEPIDIUM SATIVUM, watercress
LEPOREM MADIDUM, {Rx} 382, seq. ---- FARSUM, {Rx} 384; ---- PASSENIANUM, {Rx} 389; ---- ISICIATUM, {Rx} 390; ---- FARSILEM, {Rx} 391; ---- ELIXIUM, {Rx} 392; ---- SICCO SPARSUM, {Rx} 394; ---- LEPORIS CONDITURA, {Rx} 393-5
LEPUS, hare; LEPUSCULUM, young hare; LEPORARIUM, a place for keeping hare; LEPORINUM MINUTAL, minced hare, Hasenpfeffer, {Rx} 382-395
Lettuce, B. V, {Rx} 105, 109-111; ---- and endives, {Rx} 109; ---- puree of, {Rx} 130
LEUCANTHEMIS, camomile
LEUCOZOMUS, "creamed," prepared with milk, {Rx} 250
Lex Fannia, {Rx} 166
Liaison, lie, {Rx} 54; cf. AMYLARE
LIBELLI, little ribs, spare ribs, also loin of pork, {Rx} 251
LIBRA, weight, 1 pound (abb. "lb." still in use); LIBRAE, balances, scales
LIBURNICUM, see oil, oleum
LIGUSTICUM, lovage (from Liguria) also LEVISTICUM; identical with garden lovage, savory, basilica, satury, etc.
LIQUORIBUS, DE, p. 370
LIQUAMEN, any kind of culinary liquid, depending upon the occasion. It may be interpreted as brine, stock, gravy, jus, sauce, drippings, marinade, natural juice; it must be interpreted in the broadest sense, as the particular instance requires. This much disputed term has been illustrated also in page 22. Also see {Rx} 9, 42
Liquids, Summary of, p. 370 ---- thickening of, by means of flour, eggs, etc., called Liaison, cf. AMYLARE
Lister, Dr. Martinus, editor, edition of 1705, title page, ditto, verso of, ditto of 1709, p. 38; frontispice ---- quoted in many foot notes, {Rx} 8, seq. ---- assailing Torinus, p. 13, {Rx} 15, 26, 100, 205 ---- edition, 1709, facsimile, p. 250
Liver kromeskis, {Rx} 44; fig-fed, of pig, {Rx} 259-60; ---- and lungs, {Rx} 291-3; ---- hash, {Rx} 293; ---- of fish, see GARUM and Pollio
Lobster, {Rx} 398, 399, 400, 401, 2; in various ways
LOCUSTA, a langoust, spiny lobster, large lobster without claws; {Rx} 397-402, 485; ---- ASSAE, {Rx} 398; ---- ELIXAE, {Rx} 399, 401-2
Loins, p. 285, {Rx} 286
LOLIGO, LOLLIGO, calamary, cuttle-fish, {Rx} 42, 405
LOLIUM, LOLA, darnel, rye-grass, ray-grass, meal. The seeds of this grass were milled, the flour or meal believed to possess some narcotic properties, as stated by Ovid and Plautus, but recent researches have cast some doubt upon its reported deleterious qualities. Apicius, {Rx} 50, reads LOLAE FLORIS
LONGANO, a blood sausage, {Rx} 61. The LONGANONES PORCINOS EX IURE TARENTINO in {Rx} 140 is a part of the PATINA EX LACTE; a pork sausage made in Tarent of the straight gut, the rectum. Lister says they are cooked in Tarentinian sauce and are not unlike the sausage called APEXABO and HILLA. These sausages were in vogue before the Italians learned to make them; it was in Epirus, Greece, that they were highly developed. Their importation into Rome caused quite a stir, politically. Lister, {Rx} 50, p. 119, describes the sausage and calls the inhabitants of Tarent "most voluptuous, soft and delicate" because Juvenal, Sat. VI, v. 297, takes a shot at Tarent
This part of Italy, and especially Sicily, because in close contact with Greece was for many years much farther advanced in art of cookery than the North
Lucania, district of lower Italy whence came the Lucanian sausage, p. 172, {Rx} 61; see also LONGANO
LUCIUS FLUVIALIS, a river fish, perch, or pike, according to some; Platina also calls it LICIUS. Cf. MERULA
Lucretian Dish, {Rx} 151
Lucullus, Roman general, proverbial glutton, has a place here because of his importation into Rome of the cherry, which he discovered in Asia Minor. He cannot be expected to be represented in the Apicius book because he died 57 B.C.
LUCUSTA, see LOCUSTA
LUMBUS, loin, (Ger. LUMMEL), {Rx} 286; LUMBELLI, {Rx} 255
Lung, {Rx} 291-2
LUPINUS, lupine
LUPUS, fish, {Rx} 158
M
MACELLARIUS, MACELLINUS, market man, butcher
MACELLUM, market
MACERO, to soak, soften, steep in liquor, macerate; MACERATUM, food thus treated
MACTRA, trough for kneading dough
MAGIRUS, MAGEIROS, cook, see COQUUS
MALABATHRUM --THRON, {Rx} 32, 399
Mallows, {Rx} 86
MALUS, fruit tree, apple tree; ---- PUNICORUM, pomegranate; ---- ASSYRIA, ---- CITRUS DECUMANA, one of the larger citrus fruits; ---- MEDICA, citron tree; ---- CYDONIA, quince tree
MALUM, fruit, an apple, but quinces, pomegranates, peaches, oranges, lemons, and other fruits were likewise designated by this name. {Rx} 18, 20. See also CITRUM
It is remarkable that Apicius does not specifically speak of lemons and oranges, fruits that must have grown in Italy at his time, that are so indispensable to modern cookery
MALUM PUNICUM, {Rx} 20, 21; ---- CYDONIUM, {Rx} 21; ---- GRANATUM, {Rx} 20; ---- MEDICUM, {Rx} 24; ---- ROSEUM, {Rx} 178, 171. This name, which according to Schuch simply stands for a rose-colored apple, has led to the belief that the ancients made pies, etc., of roses. Today a certain red-colored apple is known as "Roman Beauty." We concur in Schuch's opinion, remembering, however, that the fruit of the rose tree, namely the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine, is made into dainty confections on the Continent today. It is therefore quite possible that MALUM ROSEUM stands for the fruit of the rose
MANDUCO, to chew, to munch, to enjoy food by munching; a glutton
MAPPA, table napkin (Fr. nappe). M. is a Punic word, according to Quintil. 1, 5, 57
Each banquet guest brought with him from his own home such a napkin or cloth which he used during the banquet to wipe his mouth and hands. The ancients, evidently, were conscious of the danger of infection through the common use of napkins and table ware. Sometimes they used their napkins to wrap up part of the meal and to give it to their slaves to carry home in. Horace, Martial, Petronius attest to this fact. The banquet guests also employed their own slaves to wait on them at their Host's party. This custom and the individual napkin habit have survived until after the French revolution. Grimod de la Reyniere, in his Almanach des Gourmands, Paris, 1803, seq., describes how guests furnished their own napkins and servants for their own use at parties to which they were invited
This rather sensible custom relieved the host of much responsibility and greatly assisted him in defraying the expenses of the dinner. On the other hand it reveals the restrictions placed upon any host by the general shortage of table ware, table linen, laundering facilities in the days prior to the mechanical age
Marcellus, a Roman physician, {Rx} 29
Marinade, pickle; a composition of spices, vegetables, herbs, and liquids, such as vinegar, wine, to preserve meats for several days and to impart to it a special flavor, {Rx} 11, 236, 244, 394; cf. EMBAMMA
MARJORANA, marjoram
Marmites, illustrated, pp. 264, 284, 312, 342
MARRUBIUM, the plant horehound
Martial, writer, p. 10, {Rx} 307, 461 (on bulbs)
Martino, Maestro, p. 3, cf. Vehling: Martino and Platina, Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation's Chefs, Chicago, October, 1932, and Platina, Maestro nell'arte culinaria Un'interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, Cremona, 1935
Mason, Mrs., a writer, {Rx} 126
MASTIX, MASTICE, MASTICHE, the sweet-scented gum of the mastiche-tree; hence MASTICATUS, MASTICINUS for foods treated with M.
Matius, a writer, was a friend of Julius Caesar. His work is lost, {Rx} 167; apples named after him, _ibid._
MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE EN ASPIC, {Rx} 126, 480
Meal mush, Book V, {Rx} 178
Measures, liquid. The following list is confined to terms used in Apicius PARTES XV equal 1 CONGIUS CONGIUS I equal 6 SEXTARII (1 S. equals about 1-1/2 pt. English) SEXTARII II equal 1 CHOENIX SEXTARIUS I equal 2 HEMINAS HEMINA I equal 4 ACETABULA ACETABULUM I equal 12 CYATHI (15 Attic drachms) CYATHUS I equal 1/12 SEXTARIUS (a cup) COCHLEAR I equal 1/4 CYATHUS (a spoonful) COTULA, COTYLA, same as HEMINA, same as 1/2 SEXTARIUS QUARTARIUS I equal 1/4 pint
Meat ball, {Rx} 261, seq. ---- with laser, {Rx} 472-3; meat, boiled, stewed, {Rx} 271; keeping of, {Rx} 10, 13; how to make pickled meat sweet, {Rx} 12; to decorate or garnish, {Rx} 394, (see marinade); meat pudding, {Rx} 42; ---- loaf, {Rx} 384, 172
Meat displayed in windows, p. 73; ancient ---- diet, p. 31; ancient ---- supply, p. 31
Meat diet, ancient, pp. 30, 31
Meat supply, ancient and modern, p. 31
Medicinal formulae in Apicius, {Rx} 4, 5, 6, 29, 34, 67, 68, 68, 70, 71, 108, 111, 307
MEDIUM, an iris or lily root which was preserved (candied) with honey, same as ginger, or fruit glace
Medlar, {Rx} 159; see MESPILA
Megalone, place where Torinus found the Apicius codex, p. 266
MEL, honey; MELLITUM, sweetened with honey ---- PRAVUM, {Rx} 15; ---- PROBANDUM, {Rx} 16; ---- ET CASEUM, {Rx} 303
MELCAE, {Rx} 294, 303
MELEAGRIS, Turkey; cf. Vehling: "Turkey Origin," Hotel Bulletin and The Nation's Chefs, Chicago, February-March, 1935
MELIRHOMUM, MELIZOMUM, {Rx} 2
MELO, small melon, B. III, {Rx} 85; MELOPEPO, muskmelon
Melon, {Rx} 85
MENSA, repast, see CENA
MENTHA, MINTHA, mint; ---- PIPERITA, peppermint
"Menu," cf. Brevis Ciborum, Excerpts of Vinidarius, p. 235
Merling, see MERULA
MERULA, MERLUCIUS, cf. LUCIUS, a fish called merling, whiting, also smelt; Fr. MERLAN; also blackbird. Platina discussed MERULA, the blackbird, the eating of which he disapproves. "There is little food value in the meat of blackbirds and it increases melancholia," says he. Perhaps because the bird is "black," {Rx} 419
MERUS, MERUM, pure, unmixed, "mere," "merely"; hence MERUM VINUM, ---- OLEUM, pure wine, oil, etc.
MESPILA, medlar; Ger. MISPEL
Milan edition, Colophon, p. 260
Milk Toast, {Rx} 171
Mill operated by slaves, illustration, p. 60
Minced dishes, Book II
Mineral salts in vegetables, {Rx} 71, 96
MINUTAL, a "small" dish, a "minutely" cut mince; ---- MARINUM, {Rx} 164; ---- TARENTINUM, {Rx} 165; ---- APICIANUM, {Rx} 166; ---- MATIANUM, {Rx} 167; ---- DULCE, {Rx} 168; ---- EX PRAECOQUIS, {Rx} 169; ---- LEPORINUM, {Rx} 170; ---- EX ROSIS, {Rx} 171; ---- of large fruits, {Rx} 169
MITULIS, IN, {Rx} 418
Mixing bowls, see Crater
Monk's Rhubarb, {Rx} 26
"Monkey," {Rx} 55
Moralists, ancient, see Review
MORETUM, salad, salad dressing of oil, vinegar, garlic, parsley, etc., cf. {Rx} 38
Morsels, {Rx} 261, seq., 309, seq.
MORTARIA, foods prepared in the mortar, MORTARIUM, {Rx} 38, 221
MORUS, mulberry; ---- ALBA, white m. ---- NIGRA, black m. Platina, DE MORIS, has a very pretty simile, comparing the various stages of ripening and colors of the mulberry to the blushing of Thysbes, the Egyptian girl, {Rx} 24
Moulds, {Rx} 384, 126
MUGIL, sea-mullet, {Rx} 159, 419, 424, 425
Mulberries, {Rx} 24
Mullet, see MULLUS, {Rx} 148, 428, 443-4
MULLUS, the fish mullet, {Rx} 148, 427, 442, 443, 482-4
MULSUM, mead, honey-wine; ---- ACETUM, honey-vinegar
Munich Ms. XVIII Apiciana
MURENA, MURAENA, the sea fish murena, p. 356, {Rx} 448-53, 484
MUREX, shellfish, purple-fish
MURIA, brine, salt liquor, p. 22, {Rx} 30; cf. ALEC
Mush, {Rx} 178
Mushrooms, B. III, {Rx} 121, 309-14; ---- Omelette, {Rx} 314
Muskrat, {Rx} 396
Mussels, {Rx} 418
MUSTEIS PETASONEM, {Rx} 289
MUSTEOS AFROS, {Rx} 295
MUSTUM, fresh, young, new; ---- VINUM, must, new wine; ---- OLEI, new oil
MYRISTICA, nutmeg
MYRRHIS ODORATA, myrrh, used for flavoring wine
MYRTUS, myrtle berry, often called "pepper" and so used instead of pepper
MYRTUS PIMENTA, allspice
N
NAPKINS, individual, see MAPPA
NAPUS, p. 188, a turnip, navew, {Rx} 100-1
NARDUS, nard, odoriferous plant; see FOLIUM
NASTURTIUM, the herb cress
NECHON, {Rx} 16
Neck, roast, {Rx} 270
NEPATA, cat-mint; ---- MONTANA, mountain mint; see MENTHA
Nero, emperor, p. 11
Nettles, {Rx} 108
New York codex, No. I, Apiciana
Newton, Sir Isaac, scientist, Apiciana No. 8, p. 268
NITRIUM, {Rx} 66
Nonnus, writer, {Rx} 307, 396
NOVENDIALES, see CENA
NUCEA LASERIS, {Rx} 16; also see LASER
NUCLEUS, nut, kernel, {Rx} 92
NUCULA, dim. of NUX, small nut; also a certain muscular piece of meat from the hind leg of animals, Fr. NOIX DE VEAU, as of veal, Ger. KALBSNUSS, and a certain small part of the loin of animals, Fr. NOISETTE
NUMIDICUS, PULLUS, guinea hen, which see
Nut custard, turn-over, {Rx} 129, 143; ---- porridge, {Rx} 297-9; ---- pudding, {Rx} 298, 299, 230; ---- meal mush, {Rx} 300
Nuts, Summary of, p. 236
NUX, p. 236, a nut, both hazel nut and walnut; ---- JUGLANDIS, walnut; ---- PINEIS, ---- PINEA, pine nuts, pignolia; ---- MUSCATA, nutmeg
O
OBLIGABIS, {Rx} 83; also see AMYLARE
OBSONARE, to provide, to buy for the table; to prepare or to give a dinner; from the Greek, OPSON
OBSONATOR, steward
OBSONIUM, OP--, a dish, a meal, anything eaten with bread
OCIMUM, --YMUM, --UMUM, OCINUM, basil, basilica; also a sort of clover
OENOGARUM, wine and GARUM (which see), a wine sauce, {Rx} 33, 146, 465; OENOGARATUM, a dish prepared with O.
OENOMELI, wine and honey
OENOPOLIUM, wine shop; a wine dealer's place, who, however, did a retail business. The TABERNA VINARIA seems to have been the regular wine restaurant, while the THERMOPOLIUM specialized in hot spiced wines. Like today in our complicated civilization, there were in antiquity a number of different refreshment places, each with its specialties and an appropriate name for the establishment
OENOTEGANON, {Rx} 479, 81
OFFA, OFFELLA, OFELLA, a lump or ball of meat, a "Hamburger Steak," a meat dumpling, any bit of meat, a morsel, chop, small steak, collop, also various other "dainty" dishes, consisting principally of meat
"INTER OS ET OFFAM MULTA INTERVENIUNT"--Cato; the ancient equivalent for our "'twixt cup and lip there is many a slip" {Rx} 261; ---- APICIANA, {Rx} 262; ---- APRUGNEA MORE, {Rx} 263; ---- ALIAE, {Rx} 264-5; ---- LASERATA, {Rx} 271; ---- GARATAS, {Rx} 471-74; ---- ASSAS, {Rx} 472, 473
Oil substitute, {Rx} 9; ---- oil, to clarify for frying {Rx} 250 ---- Liburnian, {Rx} 7
OLEUM, oil, olive oil; ---- LIBURNICUM, {Rx} 7; HISPANUM, Spanish olive oil OLEATUS, moistened, mixed, dressed with oil, 103; ---- MOLLE, vegetables strained, a puree, {Rx} 103-106; also HOLUS, etc.
OLIFERA, OLYRA, a kind of corn, spelt, {Rx} 99; see OLUS
OLIVA, olive, {Rx} 30, 91; to keep olives green, {Rx} 30
OLLA, a cook pot, a terra-cotta bowl; see also CACCABUS. OLLULA, a small O., a casserole, or cassolette. Sp. OLLA PODRIDA, "rotten pot"
OLUS, OLUSATRUM, OLUSTRUM, OLUSCULUM, OLERA, OLISERA, OLIFERA, OLISATRA, any herb, kitchen greens, pot herbs, sometimes cabbage, from OLITOR, the truck farmer, {Rx} 25, 67, 99, 103 OLUS ET CAULUS, cabbage and cale, {Rx}
OLUSATRUM, see OLUS
Omelette with sardines, {Rx} 146; ---- with mushrooms, {Rx} 314; ---- Soufflee, {Rx} 302
OMENTUM, caul, the abdominal membrane, used for sausage-making or to wrap croquettes (kromeskis) which then were OMENTATA, {Rx} 43, 47
Onions, {Rx} 304-8
OPERCULUM, a cover, lid, or dish with a cover
Opossum, {Rx} 396
ORIGANUM MARJORANA, marjoram; ---- origany; ---- VINUM, wine flavored with O.
ORYZA, rice, rice flour; see RISUM
OSPREON, OSPREOS, OSPRION, legumes, Title of Book V
Ostia, town, harbor of Rome; the OFFELLAE OSTIENSIS, {Rx} 261, are the ancient "Hamburgers"; this seems to confirm the assumption that the population of sea-port towns have a preference for meat balls
OSTREA, oyster, {Rx} 15, 410; --RIUM, oyster bed or pit, or place for keeping oysters
Ostrich, {Rx} 210-11
Oval pan, illustration, p. 159
Oval service dish, p. 43
Oven, ancient bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2
OVIS SYLVATICA, OVIFERO, wild sheep, {Rx} 348-50
OVUM, egg; OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE, {Rx} 302
OXALIS, sorrel
OXALME, acid pickle, vinegar and brine
Oxford Mss., Apiciana X, XI
OXYCOMIUM, pickled olive
OXYGALA, curdled with curds
OXYGARUM, vinegar and GARUM, which see, {Rx} 36, 37
OXYPORUS, easily digested, {Rx} 34
OXYZOMUM, seasoned with acid, vinegar, lemon, etc.
Oyster sauce, CUMINATUM, {Rx} 41
Oysters, how to keep, {Rx} 14, 410, 411 ---- shipped by Apicius, p. 10
P
PALLACANA CEPA, shallot, young onion; cf. CEPA
Pallas Athene Dish, The Great, illustration, p. 158
PALMA, PALMITA, palm shoots
PALUMBA, wood pigeon, {Rx} 220
Pan with decorated handle, p. 73
Panada, {Rx} 127
PANAX, PANACEA, the herb all-heal; it contains a savory juice like LASER and FERULA
PANDECTES, --ER, a book on all sorts of subjects; Title of Book IV
PANIS, bread, PICENTINUS, {Rx} 126
Pans, kitchen, see illustrations, pp. 155, 159
Pap, {Rx} 172-3, 182
PAPAVER, poppy-seed; ---- FICI, fig-seed
PARADOXON, CONDITUM, {Rx} 1
Parboiling, {Rx} 119
Paris Mss., Apiciana III, IV
Parrot, {Rx} 231-2
Parsnips, {Rx} 121-3
PARTHIA, {Rx} 191, 237, 364; a country of Asia
Partridge, {Rx} 218, seq., 499
Passenius, --anus, an unidentified Roman, {Rx} 389
PASSER, a sea-fish, turbot; also a sparrow which Platina does not recommend for the table
PASSUM, raisin wine
PASTINACA, --CEA, parsnip, carrot, {Rx} 121-3; also a fish, the sting-ray
Pastry, absent, p. 43
PATELLA, a platter or dish on which food was cooked and served, corresponding to our gratin dishes; a dish in general. In this sense it is often confused with PATINA, which see, so that it has become difficult to distinguish between the two terms ---- THIROTARICA, {Rx} 144; ---- ARIDA, {Rx} 145; ---- EX OLISATRO, {Rx} 145a; ---- SICCA, {Rx} 145
PATELLARIUS, pertaining to a PATELLA; also one who makes or sells dishes, and, in the kitchen, also a dishwasher; cf. PATINARIUS
PATINA, PATENA, a pot, pan, dish, plate; also food, eating, a dish, or cookery in general in which sense it corresponds to our "cuisine"
PATINARIUS, a glutton, gormandizer, also a pile of dishes, also the craftsman who makes and the merchant who sells dishes as well as the scullion who washes them
PATINA APICIANA, {Rx} 141; ---- APUA, {Rx} 138-9, 146; ---- DE ASPARAGIS, {Rx} 132-33; ---- DE CYDONIIS, {Rx} 163; ---- EX LACTE, {Rx} 140; ---- EX LARIDIS ET CEREBELLIS, {Rx} 147; ---- FRISILIS, {Rx} 131; ---- EX RUSTICIS, {Rx} 134; ---- DE ROSIS, {Rx} 136; ---- DE LACERTIS, {Rx} 152; ---- DE LUPO, {Rx} 158; ---- DE PERSICIS, {Rx} 160; ---- EX URTICA, {Rx} 162; ---- EX SOLEIS, {Rx} 154; ---- EX PISCIBUS, {Rx} 155-7, 486; ---- MULLIS, {Rx} 148; ---- QUIBUSLIBET, {Rx} 149; ---- ALIA PISCIUM, {Rx} 150; ---- SOLEARUM EX OVIS, {Rx} 487; ---- QUOTIDIANA, {Rx} 122, 142; ---- VERSATILIS, {Rx} 129, 143; ---- ZOMORE, {Rx} 153; ---- DE PIRIS, {Rx} 161; ---- DE SORBIS, {Rx} 159; ---- DE SAMBUCO, {Rx} 135; ---- DE CUCURBITIS, {Rx} 137
PAVO, peacock, {Rx} 54
Peaches, a dish of, {Rx} 160
Peacock, Book VI, {Rx} 54
Pears, {Rx} 22, 161
Peas, p. 247, {Rx} 185-6, 190-2; ---- a tempting dish of, {Rx} 192; ---- Indian, {Rx} 187; ---- puree of peas, cold, {Rx} 188; ---- or beans a la Vitellius, {Rx} 189, 193; ---- in the pod, Apician style, {Rx} 194-6; ---- in the pod a la Commodus, {Rx} 197; puree of peas with brains and chicken, {Rx} 198
PECTINE, scallop, {Rx} 52
Peeling young vegetables, {Rx} 69
PELAMIS, young tunny, {Rx} 426, 444
Pennell, Elizabeth R., writer, pp. 17, 18, 257-58
PEPON, a kind of gourd, melon or pumpkin, {Rx} 85
Pepper, {Rx} 1; ---- for other spices, {Rx} 143, 177, 295, seq.
PERCA, perch, {Rx} 446
Perch, {Rx} 446
PERDICE, IN, {Rx} 218
PERDRIX, partridge, {Rx} 218, seq., 499
PERNA, ham; pork forequarter or hindquarter, {Rx} 287, 288 ---- APRUGNA, {Rx} 338
PERSICUM, peach, {Rx} 29, 160; --US, peach-tree
Persons named in recipes, pp. 11, 21
PETASO, fresh ham, hind leg of pork, {Rx} 289
Petits pois a la francaise, {Rx} 185
Petits sales, {Rx} 41, 147, 149, 150, 151
Petronius Arbiter, writer, pp. 3, 7, 11, 15
PETROSELINUM, parsley
PHARIAM, UVAM PASSAM, {Rx} 197
PHASEOLUS, FASEOLUS, green string beans, kidney bean, young bean and pod, both green and wax bean varieties. Ger. FISOLE and FASOLE, {Rx} 207
PHASIANUS, pheasant; --ARIUS, one who has care of or who raises pheasants, game-keeper, {Rx} 49, p. 265
Pheasant, dumplings of, {Rx} 48; -- plumage as decoration, {Rx} 213
Phillipps, bibl. Apiciana I
PHOENICOPTERUS, Flamingo, {Rx} 220, 231-2
Picentinian bread, {Rx} 126
Pichon, Baron J., collector, pp. 257-8, Apiciana, Nos. 21-22, p. 272
Picking birds, {Rx} 233
Pie chimneys, {Rx} 141
Pig, see PORCELLUM
PIPER, pepper; ---- NIGRUM, black p.; ---- VIRIDUM, green p., {Rx} 134; "pepper" for other spices, {Rx} 143, 177, 295, seq. --ATUS, prepared with p.
PIPERITIS, pepperwort, Indian pepper, capsicum
PIPIO, a young bird, a squab; from the chirping or "peeping" sounds made by them; ---- EXOSSATUS, boned squab
PIRUM, pear, {Rx} 160-1
PISA, --UM, peas, pea, {Rx} 185, seq., 190-2, 195-8; ---- FARSILIS, {Rx} 186; ---- INDICAM, {Rx} 187; ---- FRIGIDA, {Rx} 188; --M VITELLIANAM, {Rx} 189, 193; ---- ADULTERAM, {Rx} 192
PISCINA, fish pond, fish tank, which was found in every large Roman household to keep a supply of fresh fish on hand
PISCIS, fish; PISCES FRIXOS, {Rx} 476-7; ---- SCORPIONES RAPULATOS, {Rx} 475; ---- ASSOS, {Rx} 478; ---- OENOTEGANON, {Rx} 479, 81; ---- IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS, {Rx} 486; ---- IN PISCE ELIXO, {Rx} 433, 434, 435, 436, 454; ---- AURATA, {Rx} 461; ---- ASSA, {Rx} 462; ---- OENOGARUM, {Rx} 464-5
PISTACIUM, --EUM, pistache
PISTOR, baker, pastry cook, confectioner, see COQUUS
Pitch, for sealing of vessels, {Rx} 25
PLACENTA, a certain cake, a cheese cake
Plaster in bread, p. 39 ---- for sealing of pots, {Rx} 23
Platina, Bartolomeo, humanist, writer, pp. 8, 9, 19, Apiciana No. 6, and often quoted in this index. Author of first printed Cookery book. Cf. Martino and Platina Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, by J. D. Vehling. Cf. Cibarium, Cornum, Corvus, Frictella, Merula, Morus, Passer, Ranae, Risum, Sturnus, Styrio, Thinca, Thymus, Zanzerella
Plato, writer, p. 12
Platters, Roast, p. 219; Athene, p. 158
Plautus, writer, p. 147; ---- naming cooks, {Rx} 484; Plautian Latinity, {Rx} 153
Pliny, writer, p. 31, {Rx} 307, 396, 410
Plumage of birds as a decoration, {Rx} 213
Plums, {Rx} 22
Plutarch, writer, pp. 3, 66, 128
Poggio, medieval scholar, at Fulda, p. 20
POLEI, POLEGIUM, PULEIUM, penny-royal, flea-bane, flea-wort
POLENTA, peeled or pearled barley, {Rx} 178
Pollio, Roman, feeding human flesh to fish, {Rx} 484
POLYPODIUM, the herb fern or polypody
POLYPUS, the fish polypus, {Rx} 410
POLYTELES, POLI--, fine dishes, trimmed, set off; "Recherche" food; Title of Book VII
Pomegranates, to keep, {Rx} 20
Pompeii: Casa di Forno. See p. 2 ---- destroyed, p. 3, seq. ---- Wine Room, illustration, p. 124
Pompeii, city, description of, see Review. Innkeeper at ---- advertising ham, {Rx} 287; objects, table ware, etc., found at P., see list of illustrations
POMUM, fruit of any tree, as apples, pears, peaches, cherries, figs, dates, nuts, also mulberries and truffles. Cf. MALUM, p. 370
PONTUS, Black Sea Region
PORCA, PORCUS, female and male swine; PORCELLUS, PORCELLINUS, young s., pig, {Rx} 336-81, 488-94; ---- PORCELLUM FARSILEM, {Rx} 366, 367; ---- ASSUM, {Rx} 369; ---- ELIXUM, {Rx} 368; ---- APICIANUM, {Rx} 370; ---- VITELLIANUM, {Rx} 371; ---- LAUREATUM, {Rx} 373; ---- FRONTINIANUM, {Rx} 374; ---- CELSINIANUM, {Rx} 376, 377; ---- HORTULANUM, {Rx} 378; ---- ELIXUM IUS FRIGIDUM, {Rx} 379; ---- TRAIANUM, {Rx} 380; ---- CORIANDRATUM, {Rx} 488; ---- FLACCIANUM, {Rx} 372; ---- OENOCOCTUM, {Rx} 489; ---- EO IURE, {Rx} 490; ---- THYMO SPARSUM, {Rx} 491; OXYZOMUM, {Rx} 492; ---- LASARATUM, {Rx} 493; ---- IUSCELLATUM, {Rx} 494; ---- ASSUM TRACTOMELINUM, {Rx} 369; ---- LACTE PASTUM, {Rx} 370; ---- IN PORCELLO LACTANTE, {Rx} 381
Pork, p. 285; ---- and onions a la Lucretius, {Rx} 151; ---- skin, cracklings, {Rx} 251-55; ---- udder, {Rx} 251; ---- tenderloin, {Rx} 251-255; ---- tails and feet, {Rx} 251; ---- fig-fed, {Rx} 259; ---- cutlets, Hunter Style, {Rx} 263; ---- paunch, {Rx} 285; ---- loin and kidneys, {Rx} 286; ---- shoulder, {Rx} 287-88; ---- fresh ham, {Rx} 289; ---- bacon, {Rx} 290; ---- Salt ---- {Rx} 290; ---- forcemeat, {Rx} 366
Porker, The ----'s Last Will and Testament, {Rx} 376
Porridge, Books IV, V, {Rx} 172, 178; ---- and wine sauce, {Rx} 179; ---- another, {Rx} 180
PORRUM, --US, leek, {Rx} 93, 96; "SECTILE ----"--Martial
PORTULACA, PORCILACA, purslane
POSCA, originally water and vinegar or lemon juice. It became an acid drink of several variations, made with wine, fruit juice, eggs and water
Pot Roast, {Rx} 270
Potherbs, to keep, {Rx} 25, 188, see OLUS
Potted Entrees, {Rx} 54
POTUS, drink
PRAECOQUO, --OCTUS, --OCIA, "cooked beforehand," also ripened too early, but the present kitchen term is "blanching," or "parboiling." Cf. PRAEDURO
PRAEDURO, to harden by boiling, to blanch, {Rx} 119
Preserves, several in Book I
Preserving (keeping of) meats, {Rx} 10-12; ---- fried fish, {Rx} 13; ---- fruit, figs, prunes, pears, etc., {Rx} 19-24, 28, 29, 30; ---- grapes, {Rx} 19; ---- honey cakes, {Rx} 16; ---- mulberries, {Rx} 24; ---- oysters, {Rx} 14; ---- pomegranates, {Rx} 20; ---- pot herbs, {Rx} 25; ---- quinces, {Rx} 21; ---- sorrel, sour dock, {Rx} 26; ---- citron, {Rx} 23; ---- truffles, {Rx} 27; ---- vegetable puree, {Rx} 106
Press, wine illustration, p. 92
Processing, {Rx} 19-24
PRUNA, live, burning coal
PRUNUM, plum; ---- DAMASCENUM, p. from Damascus, {Rx} 22; this variety came dried, resembling our large prunes. ---- SILVESTRIS, sloe berry, which by culture and pruning has become the ancestor of plums, etc.
PTISANA, (better) TISANA, barley broth, rice broth, a gruel, {Rx} 173-3, 200-1; ---- TARICHA, {Rx} 173
Pudding, {Rx} 60
PULLUS, PULLULUS, young animal of any kind but principally a pullet, chicken, {Rx} 51, 2-7, 213, 235-6, seq.; ---- RAPTUS, note 1, {Rx} 140
PULLUM PARTHICUM, {Rx} 237; OXYZOMUM, {Rx} 238; ---- NUMIDICUM, {Rx} 239; ---- LASERATUM, {Rx} 240; ---- ELIXUM, {Rx} 242; ---- CUM CUCURBITIS, {Rx} 243; ---- CUM COLOCASIIS, {Rx} 244; ---- VARDANUM, {Rx} 245; ---- FRONTONIANUM, {Rx} 246; ---- TRACTOGALATUM, {Rx} 247; ---- FARSILIS, {Rx} 248; LEUCOZOMUM, {Rx} 250
PULMENTARIUM, any food eaten with vegetables, pulse or bread, or a dish composed of these ingredients, {Rx} 67-71
PULMO, lung, {Rx} 29
PULPA, --MENTUM, {Rx} 42, 134; also PULMENTUM
PULS, --E, PULTICULUM, Books IV, V, a porridge, polenta, {Rx} 178, seq.; PULTES JULIANAE, {Rx} 178; ---- OENOCOCTI, {Rx} 179; ---- TRACTOGALATAE, {Rx} 181
PULTARIUS, a bowl, a "cereal" dish, {Rx} 104
Pumpkin, B. III, {Rx} 73-80; ---- pie, {Rx} 137; ---- fritters, {Rx} 176; ---- like dasheens, {Rx} 74; ---- Alexandrine Style, {Rx} 75; ---- boiled, {Rx} 76; ---- fried, {Rx} 77; ---- 78; ---- mashed, {Rx} 79; ---- and chicken, {Rx} 80
Puree of lettuce, {Rx} 130
PYRETHRUM, --ON, Spanish camomile, pellitory
Q
QUARTARIUS, a measure (which see), 1/4 pint
Quenelles, {Rx} 131
Quinces, {Rx} 21, 162
R
Rabbit, {Rx} 54
Radishes, {Rx} 102
Ragout of brains and bacon, {Rx} 147; ---- financiere, {Rx} 166
RAIA, the sea-fish ray, or skate; also whip-ray; p. 343, {Rx} 403-4; Raie au beurre noir, {Rx} 404
Raisins, {Rx} 30
RANAE, frogs, have been an article of diet for ages. Platina gives fine directions for their preparation. He recommends only frogs living in the water. RUBETAS ET SUB TERRA VIVENTES, UT NOXIAS REJICIO! AQUATILAS HAE SUNT DE QUIBUS LOQUOR
Platina skins the frogs, turns them in flour and fries them in oil; he adds fennel flower garnish and SALSA VIRIDA (green sauce, our ravigote or remoulade) on the side. No modern chef could do different or improve upon it. The fennel blossom garnish is a startling stroke of genius
Rankin, E. M., writer, see COQUUS
RAPA, RAPUM, rape, turnip, navew, {Rx} 26, 100-1
RAPHANUS SATIVUS, Horseradish, {Rx} 102
Ray, fish, {Rx} 403-4
RECOQUO, RECOCTUM, re-heated, warmed-up
Redsnapper, {Rx} 448
Reduction, {Rx} 145, 168
Reference to other parts of the book by Apicius, {Rx} 170, 166
Relishes, {Rx} 174-5
RENES, {Rx} 286
Reyniere, Grimod de la ---- writer, p. 3, see MAPPA
RHOMBUS, fish, turbot
RHUS, a shrub called SUMACH, seed of which is used instead of salt
RISUM, rice, also ORYZA. The word RISUM is used by Platina who says: "RISUM, QUOD EGO ANTIQUO VOCABULO ORIZAM APPELLATUM PUTO." This is one of the many philologically interesting instances found in Platina and Aegineta of the evolution of a term from the antique to the medieval Latin and finally emerging into modern Italian. What better proof, if necessary, could be desired than this etymology for the authenticity of the Apicius book? Its age could be proven by a philologist if no other proof were at hand
Roasts, Roasting, p. 285, {Rx} 266-70
Roman Beauty Apple, {Rx} 136 ---- excesses, p. 15
Roman Cook Stove, illustration, p. 182 ---- economic conditions, p. 15
Roman Vermouth, {Rx} 3
ROSATUM, ROSATIUM, flavored with roses; ---- VINUM, rose wine, {Rx} 4-6; ---- without roses, {Rx} 6
Rose pie, see MALUM ROSEUM, also {Rx} 136, 171 ---- custard, {Rx} 136; ---- pudding, {Rx} 136; ---- apple, {Rx} 136
Rose wine, {Rx} 4-6
ROSMARINUS, rosemary
Round sausage, {Rx} 65
Roux, {Rx} 172, see AMYLARE
RUBELLIO, fish, {Rx} 447
RUBRA TESTA, red earthen pot
RUMEX, sorrel, sour dock, monk's rhubarb, {Rx} 24
Rumohr, B., writer, pp. 3, 18
Rumpolt, Marx, cook, cf. Styrio
RUTA, rue; ---- HORTENSIS, garden r.; ---- SYLVESTRIS, wild r.; ---- RUTATUS, prepared with r. Rue was very much esteemed because of its stimulating properties
Rye, {Rx} 99
S
SABUCO, see SAMBUCO
SACCARUM, SACCHARUM, sugar; distillate from the joints of the bamboo or sugar cane, coming from India, hence called "Indian Salt." It was very scarce in ancient cookery. Honey was generally used in place of sugar. Only occasionally a shipment of sugar would arrive in Rome from India, supposed to have been cane sugar; otherwise cane and beet sugar was unknown in ancient times. Any kind of sweets, therefore, was considered a luxury
SAL, salt. Laxative salt, {Rx} 29; "For many ills," _ibid._
Sala, George Augustus, writer, p. 38
SALACACCABIA, SALACATTABIA, "salt" food boiled in the "caccabus," {Rx} 125-7, 468-70
Salad, {Rx} 109-11; ---- dressing, {Rx} 112-3; Italian ---- {Rx} 122
Salcisse, {Rx} 41
SALINUM, salt cellar
Salmasius, Codex of ----, see Apiciana, III
SALPA, a sea-fish like stock-fish
SALSAMENTUM IN PORCELLO, {Rx} 381
Salsicium, {Rx} 41
SALSUM, pickled or salt meat, especially bacon; {Rx} 10, 41, 147, 149, 150, 428, seq.; ---- CRUDUM, {Rx} 151, cf. petits sales
Salt, laxative, {Rx} 29; "for many ills," _ibid._; ---- meat, to make sweet, {Rx} 12; ---- fish, {Rx} 144, seq., 427, seq.; ---- balls, {Rx} 145
SALVIA, SALVUS, sage
SAMBUCUS, elder-tree, or e.-berry; {Rx} 135
Sanitary measures, see MAPPA
SAPA, new wine boiled down
SAPOR, taste, savor, relish; ---- ROSELLINUS, rose extract, prepared rose flavor
SARCOPTES, title of Book II
SARDA, SARDELLA, small fish, sardine, anchovy, {Rx} 146, 419, 420, 480; ---- CONDITAE, {Rx} 480; SARDAM FARSILEM, {Rx} 419; ---- Sardine omelette, {Rx} 146
Sarinus, Pompeiian innkeeper, p. 7
SARTAGO, frying pan, flat and round or oblong, of bronze or of iron; some were equipped with hinged handles, to facilitate packing or storing away in small places, in soldiers' knapsack, or to save space in the pantry. This, as well as the extension handle of some ancient dippers are ingenious features of ancient kitchen utensils. See also FRICTORIUM, and the illustrations of pans, pp. 155, 159
SATUREIA, savory, satury
Sauce pans, illustrations, pp. 155, 159, 73, 231
Sauces, ancient compared with modern, pp. 22, 24, 26, 27; ---- for roasts, {Rx} 267-70; ---- for partridge, {Rx} 499; ---- crane and duck, {Rx} 215; ---- for fowl, {Rx} 218-28
Sauces. Bread Sauce, {Rx} 274; Brine, {Rx} 284; ---- for broiled fish, Alexandrine style, {Rx} 437-39; ---- for boiled fish, {Rx} 433-6, 454; ---- for broiled mullet, {Rx} 442-3; ---- boiled meats, {Rx} 271-3; ---- for roasts, {Rx} 267, seq.; English ----, {Rx} 267; ---- for broiled murenas, {Rx} 448-51; Dill ----, {Rx} 283; Herb ---- for fried fish, {Rx} 432; ---- for Horned fish, {Rx} 441; ---- for lacertus, {Rx} 455-7; ---- perch, {Rx} 446; ---- redsnapper, {Rx} 447; ---- dory, {Rx} 461-2; ---- for suckling pig, {Rx} 379; ---- young tunny, {Rx} 444-5, 459; ---- for tooth-fish, {Rx} 460-1, 486; ---- shellfish, {Rx} 397; ---- for venison, {Rx} 339, 349; ---- for wild sheep or lamb, {Rx} 350; White ----, {Rx} 276, 277; Wine ---- for fish, {Rx} 464; Tasty ---- for conger, {Rx} 441; ---- for tidbits, {Rx} 276-82; ---- for sea-scorpion, {Rx} 463; ---- for eel, {Rx} 440, 466-7
Saucisse, {Rx} 41
Sauerbraten-Einlage, {Rx} 11
Sausage, p. 172, {Rx} 41, 45, 60-65, 139, 165
Savonarola, Michaele, p. 273
Scalding poultry, {Rx} 233
Scallops, {Rx} 46
SCANDIUS, chervil
SCARUS, a certain sea-fish esteemed as a delicacy, a parrot-fish
SCHOLA APITIANA, Apiciana, Nos. 21, 22, 23, facsimile, p. 206
Schuch, C. Th. editor, Apiciana, Nos. 16-17, p. 34, 25, 270 seq.
Science confirming ancient methods, p. 32
SCILLA, SCYLLA, SQUILLA, a shell-fish, a sea-onion, {Rx} 43, 485
SCORPIO, a sea-scorpion, {Rx} 463, 475
SCRIBLITA, SCRIBILITA, pastry, some kind of pancake, extra hot. Plautus and Martial, hence Scriblitarius, cake baker, cf. Coquus
SCRUPULUM, SCRI--, a weight, which see
Sealing vessels to prevent air from entering, {Rx} 23, 25
Sea Barb, {Rx} 482-3; ---- Bass, {Rx} 158, 447; ---- Eel, {Rx} 484; ---- food, p. 343; ---- stew, Baian style, {Rx} 432; ---- mullet, {Rx} 157; ---- nettles, {Rx} 162; ---- perch, {Rx} 447; ---- pike, {Rx} 158; ---- urchin, {Rx} 413-4; ---- scorpion, {Rx} 475
Sea-scorpion with turnips, {Rx} 475
Sea water, {Rx} 8
Seasoning, see flavoring
Secrecy in recipes, pp. 29, 30
Seeds, Summary of, p. 236
SEL, see SIL
SEMINIBUS, DE, p. 236
Seneca, Roman philosopher, pp. 3, 11, 15
SEPIA, cuttle-fish, {Rx} 406-9
SERPYLLUM, wild thyme
Service berry, {Rx} 159 ---- pan with decorated handle, illustration, p. 73 ---- dish for eggs, p. 93
SESAMUM, sesame herb or corn
SESELIS, SEL, SIL, hartwort, kind of cumin
SETANIA, a kind of medlar, also a certain onion or bulb
SEXTARIUS, a measure, which see, {Rx} 1
Sforza Ms. Apiciana XIII
Shellfish, {Rx} 397, 412
Shell-shaped Dessert Dish, p. 125
Shircliffe, Arnold, Dedication, p. 273
Shore Dinner, {Rx} 46
Sicardus Ms. Apiciana XIV
Signerre Rothomag., editor, pp. 258, seq., also see Tacuinus
Signerre, Colophon, p. 260
SIL, see SESELIS
SILIGO, winter wheat, very hard wheat
SILIQUA, shell, pod, husk
SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, same as LASERPITIUM, which see, {Rx} 32
SILURUS, supposed to be the river fish sly silurus, or sheat-fish, also called the horn-pout, or catfish, {Rx} 426
SIMILA, --AGO, fine wheat flour
SINAPIS, mustard
"_Singe_," {Rx} 55
SION, --UM, plant growing in the marshes or on meadows, water-parsnip
SISYMBRIUM, water cress
SITULA, hot water kettle
Skate, {Rx} 403-4
Slang in ancient text, p. 19
Slaughter, cruel methods of, {Rx} 259, 260
Slaves grinding flour, illustration, p. 60
Sloe, see PRUNUM
Smelts, {Rx} 138-39
SMYRNION, --UM, a kind of herb, common Alexander
Snails, {Rx} 323-5
Soda, use of ---- to keep vegetables green, {Rx} 66
Soft cabbage, {Rx} 103-6
SOLEA, flat fish, the sole, {Rx} 154, 487; SOLEARUM PATINA, _ibid._
SORBITIO, from SORBEO, supping up, sipping, drinking, drought; any liquid food that may be sipped, a drink, a potion, a broth, a sherbet, Fr. SORBET
Sorrel, {Rx} 26
Sour Dock, {Rx} 26
Soups, {Rx} 178, seq.
Sow's womb, matrix, udder, belly, {Rx} 59, 172, 251-8
Soyer, Alexis, chef, 35
Sparrow, see PASSER
Spaetzli, {Rx} 247
Spelt, {Rx} 58-9
Spengler, O., writer, p. 17
SPICA, a "spike," ear of corn, top of plants, the plant spikenard, SPICA NARDI
Spiced Fruit, {Rx} 177
Spices, Summary of, pp. 234-5; spicing, ancient and modern, {Rx} 15, 276-77, 385, seq.
Spiny lobster, {Rx} 54, 485
Spoiling, to prevent food from--see Book I, and Preserving, to prevent birds from spoiling, {Rx} 229-30, 233
SPONDYLIUM, --ION, a kind of plant, cow-parsnip, or all-heal. Also called SPHONDYLIUM and FONDULUM. It is quite evident that this term is very easily confused with the foregoing, a mistake, which was made by Humelbergius and upheld by Lister and others. For comparison see {Rx} 46, 115-21, 183, 309, 431
SPONDYLUS, the muscular part of an oyster or other shellfish, scallop, for instance; also a species of bivalves, perhaps the scallop, {Rx} 46
SPONGIOLA, rose gall, also the roots of asparagus, clottered and grown close together
SPONGIOLUS, fungus growing in the meadows, a mushroom, cf. SPONDYLIUM and notes pertaining thereto
Sprats, {Rx} 138-9
Sprouts, cabbage ----, {Rx} 89-92
Squab, {Rx} 218-27, cf. Pipio
Squash, {Rx} 73-80
Squill, {Rx} 485
Squirrel, {Rx} 396
Stag, {Rx} 339-45
Starch, in forcemeats, sausage, etc., {Rx} 50
Starr, Frederick, see introduction
STATERAE, steelyards for measuring
Sternajolo, writer, Apiciana, No. 28, p. 273
Stewed Lacertus, {Rx} 152; ---- meats, p. 285, {Rx} 356, seq.
Stewpots, illustrated, pp. 183, 209, 223, 235
String beans and chick-peas, {Rx} 209
STRUTHIO, ostrich, {Rx} 210-11
Studemund, W., writer, p. 19
Stuffed pumpkin fritters, {Rx} 176; ---- chicken or pig, {Rx} 199; ---- boned kid or lamb, {Rx} 360
STURNUS, a starling, stare; Platina condemns its meat as unfit, likewise that of the blackbird (cf. MERULA); he pronounces their flesh to be "devilish." "STURNI, QUOS VULGO DIABOLICAM CARNEM HABERE DICIMUS." Yet three-hundred years later, French authorities recommend this sort of food. Viger, La Nouvelle Maison Rustique, Paris, 1798, Vol. iii, p. 613, tells how to catch and fatten STURNI. "After a month [of forced feeding] they will be nice and fat and good to eat and to sell; there are persons who live of this trade." He praises the crow similarly
These instances are cited not only as a commentary upon the taste of the Southern people and their habits which have endured to this day but also to illustrate the singular genius of Platina. Also the following notes to STYRIO tend to show how far advanced was Platina in the matter of food as compared with the masters of the 18th century in France
STYRIO, STIRIO, STURIO, {Rx} 145, sturgeon; probably the same fish as known to the ancients as ACIPENSER or STURIO. (A. SIVE S. OBLONGO TEREDEQUE--Stephanus a Schonevelde, in Ichthyologia, Hamburg, 1624). There can be no doubt that the sturgeon or sterlet is meant by this term, for Platina calls the eggs of the fish "caviare." "OVA STIRIONIS CONDITUM QUOD CAUARE UOCANT." Eloquently he describes his struggle with the changing language. The efforts of this conscientious man, Platina, to get at the bottom of things no matter how trivial they may appear, are highly praiseworthy
He writes "DE STIRIONE. TRAHI PER TENEBRAS N{=U}C MIHI VIDEOR, QUANDO HOR{=U}, DE QUIBUS, DEINCEPS DICTURUS SUM, PISCI{=U}, NULLUS CERTUS UEL NOMINIS, UEL NATURAE EXISTAT AUTOR. NEGLIGENTIAE MAIORUM & INSCITIAE ID MAGIS, QUAM MIHI ASCRIBENDUM EST. VTAR EGO NOUIS NOMINIBUS NE DELICATORUM GULAE PER ME DICANT STETISSE, QUO MINUS INTEGRA UTERENTUR UOLUPTATE."
As for the rest, Platina cooks the sturgeon precisely in our own modern way: namely in water, white wine and vinegar. And: "SALEM INDERE MEMENTO!--don't forget the salt!"
Compare him with France 350 years later. As for caviare, A. Beauvilliers, in his L'Art du cuisinier, Paris, 1814, treats this "ragout" as something entirely new; yet Beauvilliers was the leading restaurateur of his time and a very capable cook, save Careme, the best. Beauvilliers has no use for caviare which he calls "Kavia." Says he: "LES RUSSES EN FONT UN GRAND CAS ET L'ACHETENT FORT CHER [The Russians make a big thing of this and buy it very dearly] CE RAGOUT, SELON MOI, NE CONVIENT QU' AUX RUSSES--this stew, according to my notion, suits only the Russians or those who have traveled thereabouts."
Shakespeare, in speaking about "Caviare to the General" apparently was more up-to-date in culinary matters than this Parisian authority. A search of the eight volumes (Vol. I, 1803) of the famous Almanach des Gourmands by Grimod de la Reyniere, Paris, 1803, seq., fails to reveal a trace of caviare
A German cook, a hundred years after Platina, Marx Rumpolt in "Ein new Kochbuch, Franckfort am Mayn, bey Johan Feyrabendt, 1587" on verso of folio XCVII, No. 9, gives an exact description of caviare and its mode of preparation. He calls it ROGEN VOM HAUSEN. The HAUSEN is the real large sturgeon, the Russian Beluga from which the best caviare is obtained. Rumpolt, whose book is the finest and most thorough of its kind in the middle ages, and a great work in every respect, remarks that caviare is good eating, especially for Hungarian gentlemen
"... SO ISSET MAN JN ROH / IST EIN GUT ESSEN / SONDERLICH FUeR EINEN VNGERISCHEN HERRN."
SUCCIDIA a side of bacon or salt pork
SUCCUM, SUCUM, {Rx} 172, 200
Suckling Pig, see PORCELLUS
Sugar and pork, {Rx} 151; use of ---- in ancient Rome, see SACCARUM
Suidas, writer, p. 11
SUMEN, {Rx} 257; ---- PLENUM, {Rx} 258
Sumptuary laws, p. 25, {Rx} 166
Sumptuous dishes, {Rx} 285
Sweet dishes, home-made, {Rx} 294-6
Sweet MINUTAL, {Rx} 168
SYRINGIATUS, {Rx} 360
T
TABLE, adjustable, illustration, p. 138; ---- round, _id._, p. 122
Tacuinus, editor-printer, p. 258; quoted in recipes 8 seq.; Facs. of Title Page, 1503, p. 262; Facs. of opening chapter, p. 232
TAMNIS, --US, TAMINIUS, wild grape
TANACETUM, tansy
Taranto, Tarentum, city, {Rx} 165; --ian sausage, {Rx} 140; ---- Minutal, {Rx} 165; see also LONGANO
Taricho, Tarichea, town, {Rx} 427, seq.
Taro, dasheen, {Rx} 74, 154, 172, 200, 244, 322; see COLOCASIA
Tarpeius, a Roman, {Rx} 363
TEGULA, tile for a roof, also a pan, a plate of marble or of copper; Ger. TIEGEL
Tempting Dish of Peas, A ----, {Rx} 192
TERENTINA, {Rx} 338
Tertullian, writer, p. 3
TESTA, --U, --UM, an earthen pot with a lid, a casserole
TESTICULA CAPONUM, {Rx} 166
TESTUDO, TESTA, turtle, tortoise. Platina praises the sea-turtle as good eating
TETRAPES, --US, four-footed animals; title of Book VIII
TETRAPHARMACUM, a course of four dishes, or a dish consisting of four meats. In modern language, a "Mixed Grill," a "Fritto Misto," a "Shore-Dinner"
THALASSA, the sea; title of Book IX, treating of fish
Theban ounce, {Rx} 3
THERMOPOLIUM, a tavern, specializing in hot drinks
THERMOSPODIUM, a hot-plate, a hot dish carrier, a BAIN-MARIS, illustrations, pp. 72, 90
THINCA, a fish, moonfish (?) "OLIM MENAM APPELLATAM CREDIDERIM"--Platina
Thudichum, Dr., writer, p. 18
THUS, TUS, frankincense, or the juice producing incense, Rosemary (?); also the herb ground-pine, CHAMAEPITYS, {Rx} 60
Thrush, p. 265, {Rx} 497
THYMBRIA, savory; see SISYMBRIUM, SATUREIA and CUNILA; also see THYMUS
THYMUS, thyme. Platina describes THYMUS and THYMBRIA with such a love and beauty that we cannot help but bestow upon him the laurels worn by the more well-known poets who became justly famous for extolling the fragrance of less useful plants such as roses and violets
THYNNUS, tunny-fish, {Rx} 426, 457-8
Tidbits, p. 285, {Rx} 261, seq.; ---- of lamb or kid, {Rx} 355
TISANA, see PTISANA, {Rx} 172-3, 200-1
Title pages, Venice, 1503, 262; Lyons, p. 263; Zuerich, p. 265; London, p. 267
Toasting, {Rx} 129
Tooth-fish, {Rx} 157
Torinus, Albanus, editor of the Apicius and Platina editions of 1541, text, p. 14 ---- quoted, {Rx} 1, 2, 8, seq., assailed by Lister, see L. ---- facsimile of Title page 1541, p. 220
TORPEDO, --IN, --INE, {Rx} 403-4
TORTA, cake, tart; ---- ALBA, cheese cake
Toulouse garnish, compared, {Rx} 378
TRACTOGALATUS, a dish prepared with milk and paste (noodles, spaetzli, etc.); ---- PULLUS, a young chicken pie
TRACTOMELITUS, a dish prepared with honey paste; a gingerbread or honeybread composition
TRACTUM, {Rx} 181
Traianus, a Roman, {Rx} 380; also Traganus, Trajanus
Traube, writer, p. 19
Trimalchio, fictitious character by Petronius, whose "Banquet" is the only surviving description of a Roman dinner, unfortunately exaggerated because it was a satire on Nero, pp. 8, 11
Tripod, illustration, p. 40
TRITICUM, --EUS, --INUS, wheat, of wheat
TROPHETES, erroneously for AEROPTES, Gr. for fowl, title of Book VI
Truffles, {Rx} 27, 33, 315-321, 333; cf. TUBERA
TRULLA, any small deep vessel, also a dipper, ladle
TUBERA, "tubers"; TUBER CIBARIUM, ---- TERRAE, truffle, a fungus, mushroom growing underground, {Rx} 27, 35, 315, seq., 321; T. CYCLAMINOS, "sow-bread," because swine, being very fond of T. dig them up. The truffle defies cultivation, grows wild and today is still being "hunted" by the aid of swine and dogs that are guided by its matchless aroma
TUCETUM, a delicate dish; particularly a dessert made of prunes
Tunny, fish, {Rx} 427, 458, 459; Baby, {Rx} 420, 424, 425, 426; Salt, {Rx} 427
TURDUS, thrush, {Rx} 497
Turkey, probably known to the ancients. See Guinea Hen and Meleagris
Turnips, {Rx} 100, 101
Turnover dish, {Rx} 129
TURTUR, "turtle" dove, {Rx} 218, seq., 498; ---- ILLA, young t., an endearing term
TURSIO, TH--, {Rx} 145
TYROPATINA, {Rx} 301
TYROTARICUS, a dish made of cheese, salt fish, eggs, spices--ingredients resembling our "Long Island Rabbit," {Rx} 137, 143, 180, 439; see TARICA, {Rx} 144, 428
U
UDDER, {Rx} 251
UNCIA, ounce, equals 1/12 lb.; also inch, -/12
UNGELLAE, {Rx} 251-5 foot
Urbino, Duke of, p. 269
URNA, urn, pitcher, water bucket; --ULA, small vessel; also a liquid measure, containing half of an AMPHORA, of four CONGII, or twelve SEXTARII; see measures
URTICA, nettle; also sea-nettle, {Rx} 108, 162
U. S. Dept. of Agr. on Dasheens, {Rx} 322
UVA, grape, {Rx} 19; Uvam passam Phariam, {Rx} 97
V
Vaerst, Baron von, a writer, pp. 3, 8
Vanilla, {Rx} 15
VARIANTES LECTIONES, Apiciana No. 12
Varianus, Varius, Varus, Vardanus, Roman family name, {Rx} 245
Varro, a writer, {Rx} 70, 307, 396, p. 21
VAS, a vase, vat, vessel, dish, plate; --CULUM, a small v.; ---- VITREUM, glass v., {Rx} 23
Vasavarayeyam, ancient Sanscrit book, p. 13
Vatican Mss. Apiciana, p. 254, seq., Incipit facsimile, p. 253
Veal Steak, p. 314, {Rx} 351, 2; ---- Fricassee, {Rx} 353, 4
Vegetable Dinner, {Rx} 67-9, 71, 145, 188; ---- puree, {Rx} 103-6; ---- peeling of young v., {Rx} 66; to keep v. green, {Rx} 67, 188; ---- and brain pudding, {Rx} 131
Vehling, J. D., see Introduction; V. collection, p. 257
VENERIS OSTIUM, {Rx} 307
Venison, {Rx} 339-45
VENTREM, AD ----, {Rx} 68, 69, 70, 71; --ICULUM, {Rx} 285
VERMICULI, "little worms," noodles, vermicelli
Vermouth, Roman, French, and Black Sea, different kinds of, {Rx} 3, seq.
VERVEX, a wether-sheep, mutton
VESTINUS, see Caseus, {Rx} 126
Vicaire, Georges, bibliographer, p. 18
VICIA, a kind of pulse, vetch
VICTUS, way of life, diet; ---- TENUIS, reduced diet
Vinaigrette, {Rx} 113, 336, 341
Vinidarius, Excerpts of, pp. 12, 21, 234
VINUM, wine; ---- CANDIDUM FACIES, {Rx} 8; many technical terms are given to wines, according to their qualities, such as ALBUM, CONDITUM, FUSCUM, NIGRUM, LIMPIDUM, ATRUM, DURUM, FULVUM, SANGUINEM, RUBENS, FIERI, BONUM, DULCE SUAVUM, FIRMUM, SALUBRE, DILUTUM, VAPIDUM, etc. These, as our modern terms, are employed to designate the "bouquet," color and other characteristics of wine. Then there are the names of the different brands coming from different parts, too numerous to mention. Furthermore there are wines of grapes, old and new, plain or distilled, raw or cooked, pure and diluted, natural or flavored, and the many different drinks made of grape wine with herbs and spices
V. NIGRUM, "black wine," may be muddy wine in need of clarification; there is some slight doubt about this point. It appears that the vintner of old was much more tempted to foist unworthy stuff upon his customers than his colleague of today who is very much restricted by law and guided by his reputation
VINUM also is any drink or liquor resembling grape wine, any home-made wine fermented or fresh. There is a V. EX NAPIS, ---- PALMEUM, ---- EX CAROTIS, ---- EX MILII SEMINE, ---- EX LOTO, ---- EX FICO, ---- EX PUNCICIS, ---- EX CORNIS, ---- EX MESPILIS, ---- EX SORBIS, ---- EX MORIS, ---- EX NUCLEIS PINEIS, ---- EX PIRIS, ---- EX MALIS, (cf. Pliny), resembling our cider, perry, berry wines and other drink or liquor made of fruit, berries, vegetables or seeds
VIOLATIUM and ROSATIUM, {Rx} 5, are laxatives; ---- ORIGANUM is wine flavored with origany; etc., etc.
It is doubtful, however, that the Romans knew the art of distillation to the extent as perfected by the Arabs centuries later and brought to higher perfection by the medical men and alchymists of the middle ages
Violet Wine, {Rx} 5
Virility, supposed stimulants for, {Rx} 307, 410
VITELLINA, VITULINA, calf, veal, {Rx} 351-4
Vitellius, emperor, p. 11, {Rx} 189, 193, 317
VITELLUS OVI, yolk of egg; also very young calf. "Calf's sweetbreads"--Danneil
Vollmer, F., editor, commentator, Apiciana No. 21, 23, 27, pp. 13, 18, 19, 273
Vossius, G. J., philologist, on Coelius, p. 266
VULVA, sow's matrix, womb; --ULA, small v., {Rx} 59, 251-54, 256. Was considered a delicacy. Pliny, Martial and Plutarch wrote at length on the subject. The humane Plutarch tells of revolting detail in connection with the slaughter of swine in order to obtain just the kind of V. that was considered the best
Cf. Pliny, Hist. Nat., VIII, 51; XI, 37, 84, 54; Plutarch's essay on flesh eating, Martial, Ep. XII, 56 and VII, 19
W
WEIGHTS. LIBRAE, scale, balance. LIBRA--pound--lb--12 ounces, equivalent to one AS UNCIA, an ounce, properly the twelfth part of any unit, also any small bit SCRIPULUM, or SCRU--, 1 scruple, 288 to 1 lb. SELIBRA for SEMILIBRA, half a pound Theban ounce, cf. {Rx} 3
Weighing fluids, {Rx} 471
Welsh rabbit, see ZANZERELLA
Whiting, {Rx} 419
Wild Boar, {Rx} 329, seq., 338; ---- sheep, {Rx} 348; ---- goat, {Rx} 346, seq.
Wilson, Dr. Margaret B., collector, cf. Preface, p. 37; cf. Apiciana I, pp. 254, 257; cf. Garum
Wine, fine spiced, {Rx} 1; Rose, {Rx} 4; ---- without roses, {Rx} 6; ---- Violet, {Rx} 5; ---- To clarify muddy, {Rx} 8; ---- New--boiled down, DEFRITUM, {Rx} 21; ---- sauce for truffles, {Rx} 33; ---- Palm, {Rx} 35; ---- of Carica figs, {Rx} 55; ---- sauce for fig-fed pork, {Rx} 259, 260; ---- fish, {Rx} 479; cf. VINUM
Wine pitcher, illustration, p. 208; ---- press, illustration, p. 92; ---- storage room in Pompeii, illustration, p. 124; ---- Dipper, p. 3; ---- Crater, p. 140
Wolf, Rebekka, writer, {Rx} 205, seq.
Woodcock, {Rx} 218, seq.
Wood-pigeon, {Rx} 218, seq.
Wooley, Mrs. Hannah, writer, {Rx} 52
Writers, ancient, on food, pp. 3, 4
Y
YEAST, {Rx} 16
Young cabbage, p. 188, {Rx} 87
Z
ZAMPINO, {Rx} 338
ZANZERELLA, a "Welsh rabbit." "CIBARIUM QUOD VULGO ZANZERELLAS UOCANT"--Platina
ZEMA, ZU--, ZY--, a cook pot for general use
ZINZIGER, GINGIBER, ginger; the latter is the better spelling
ZOMORE, ZOMOTEGANON, ZOMORE GANONA, ZOMOTEGANITE--a dish of fish boiled in their own liquor, resembling the modern bouillabaisse, {Rx} 153. The GANON, --A, --ITE, is the name of an unidentified fish, the supposed principal ingredient of this fish stew. Cf. Oenoteganon
[End of Index and Vocabulary]
[_INDICIS FINIS_]
ADDENDA
Description of Commentaries
APICIANA NOS. 30-31, A.D., 1935-36
J. SVENNUNG: UNTERSUCHUNGEN ZU PALLADIUS UND ZUR LATEINISCHEN FACH- UND VOLKSSPRACHE.
"Skrifter utgivna med understoed av Vilhelm Ekmans universitets-fond, Uppsala," tom. 44, (Uppsala, 1935)
and
DE LOCIS NON NULLIS APICIANIS SCRIPSIT J. SVENNUNG.
(Saertryck ur Eranos vol. XXXIV) Gotoburgi 1936. Typis descr. Elanders Boktr. A.-B.
[Through the good offices of Dr. Edwardt Brandt, of Munich, the above two commentaries on Apicius were received in the last moment, thanks to the courtesy of the author, Lekto J. Svennung, of Uppsala, Sweden. The first study is a critique of technical terms and colloquialisms as found in Palladius, touching frequently upon Apicius, published in 1935 at Uppsala by the Vilhelm Ekman University Foundation and the other is a reprint of an article on a number of Apician formulae from Eranos, Vol. XXXIV, published at Gothenburg, 1936, by Elander, Ltd.
J. D. V., Chicago, November 30th, 1936.]
{Illustration: (Squib on the margin of an ancient manuscript in the Monastery of St. Gallen, Switzerland)}
{Transcription:
LIBRO COMPLETO... SALTAT SCRIPTOR PEDE LAETO......}
Transcriber's Note
Minor punctuation errors have been repaired. Amendments have been made only where there was a clear error, where there was a definite inconsistency within the text, or where it was impossible to find a reliable source of the original spelling, as follows:
Page vii--FRONTISPIECE amended to FRONTISPICE--"13 FRONTISPICE, Lister Edition ..."
Page 5--predeliction amended to predilection--"... nor did he indulge in that predilection for ugly detail ..."
Page 9--Minturae amended to Minturnae--"... living chiefly at Minturnae, a city of Campania, ..."
Page 11--departmentized amended to departmentalized--"... were departmentalized to an astonishing degree ..."
Page 11--indispensible amended to indispensable--"These indispensable books are simply wanting in our book ..."
Page 15--Pommerania amended to Pomerania--"... Sweden, Holstein, Denmark, Friesland, Pomerania still observes Apicius rules ..."
Page 20--fallability amended to fallibility--"... how each new copy by virtue of human fallibility or self-sufficiency ..."
Page 22--salt amended to salted--"The fish, intestines and all, was spiced, pounded, fermented, salted, strained and bottled ..."
Page 23--an amended to a--"May it be a sturdy one, and let its owner beware."
Page 24--prodiguous amended to prodigious--"His culinary procedures required a prodigious amount of labor ..."
Page 26--insiduousness amended to insidiousness--"Even the most ascetic of men cannot resist the insidiousness of spicy delights ..."
Page 27--appeite amended to appetite--"... having our appetite aroused at the very perusal ..."
Page 28--devine amended to divine--"... the experienced practitioner will be able to divine correct proportions, ..."
Page 32--compote amended to compote--"... oyster cocktail, poultry and compote, goose with apple ..."
Page 36--mummyfied amended to mummified--"... that Apicius is not a mummified, bone-dry classic ..."
Page 58--EPIMLES amended to EPIMELES--"_EXPLICIT APICII EPIMELES LIBER PRIMUS_"
Page 64--feasable amended to feasible--"... such as we here suggest would be entirely feasible ..."
Page 70--CIRELLOS amended to CIRCELLOS--"[65] ROUND SAUSAGE _CIRCELLOS ISICIATOS_"
Page 77--popularily amended to popularly--"... chestnuts and potatoes, popularly known as "Chinese potatoes" ..."
Page 89--acccordance amended to accordance--"... Procedure quite in accordance with modern practice."
Page 89--omitted [1] added to beginning of note in recipe 121.
Page 89--114 amended to 115 (twice)--"... (Cf. {Rx} No. 115) ..." and "... _Spondyli uel fonduli_ ({Rx} Nos. 115-121) does belong to Book II ..."
Page 96--Carthusians amended to Carthusian--"... those delightful creations by the Carthusian monks ..."
Page 102--act amended to fact--"... a fashion which, as a matter of fact still survives in the Orient, ..."
Page 110--glace amended to glace--"... the _{oe}nogarum_ taking the place of our meat glace."
Page 110--vexacious amended to vexatious--"Another interpretation of this vexatious formula ..."
Page 116--indispensible amended to indispensable--"... both of which are indispensable to modern cookery."
Page 117--166 amended to 165--"* Cf. {Rx} No. 165."
Page 122--illustrations amended to illustration--"This is a good illustration of and speaks well for ..."
Page 129--forcements amended to forcemeats--"... any fine forcemeats, cut into or cooked in tiny dumplings."
Page 150--Dan. amended to Dann.--"Dann. takes this literally, but _navo_ (_navus_) here ..."
Page 151--omitted [1] added to beginning of note in recipe 243.
Page 154--APERATURE amended to APERTURE--"... EMPTY IT THROUGH THE APERTURE OF THE NECK ..."
Page 162--TID BITS amended to TID-BITS--"TID-BITS, CHOPS, CUTLETS"
Page 164--Worchestershire amended to Worcestershire--"... some of the commercial sauces made principally in England (Worcestershire, etc.), ..."
Page 166--Gell. amended to Goll.--"... _Cupedia_ (Plaut. and Goll.), nice dainty dishes, ..."
Page 172--cates amended to cakes--"_Dulcia_, sweetmeats, cakes; ..."
Page 173--128 amended to 129 and 142 amended to 143--"... or else it is a nut custard, practically a repetition of {Rx} Nos. 129 and 143."
Page 180--SNAIL amended to SNAILS--"THE SNAILS ARE FRIED WITH PURE SALT AND OIL ..."
Page 191--galatine amended to galantine--"We would call this a galantine of lamb if such a dish ..."
Page 193--Dan. amended to Dann.--"Dann. thinks _laureatus_ stands for the best, ..."
Page 193--it's amended to its--"... it is possible that the kid was cooked with its mother's own milk."
Page 198--councellor amended to counsellor--"Celsinus was counsellor for Aurelianus, the emperor."
Page 204--EXLIXUM amended to ELIXUM--"ALITER LEPOREM ELIXUM"
Page 213--15 amended to 14--"[3] Cf. No. 14 for the keeping of oysters."
Page 228--2 amended to 3--"[2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} No. 448."
Page 228--preceeds amended to precedes--"... this formula precedes the above."
Page 231--act amended to fact--"... as a matter of fact, stands for pepper, ..."
Page 236--CARDAMON amended to CARDAMOM--"... INDIAN SPIKENARD, ADDENA [3], CARDAMOM, SPIKENARD."
Page 236--FENNELL amended to FENNEL--"... CELERY SEED, FENNEL SEED, LOVAGE SEED, ..."
Page 253--XVII amended to XVIII--"Munich, XVIII"
Page 255--Cesna amended to Cesena--"Cesena, bibl. municip., 14th century."
Page 255--phases amended to phrases--"... and failed to understand some phrases of it."
Page 258--Pennel amended to Pennell--"The Pennell collection was destroyed by a flood in London ..."
Page 258--Epimelels amended to Epimeles--"... GRAECA AB APITIO POSITA HAEC SUNT || EPIMELES, ..."
Page 277--Southerwood amended to Southernwood--"ABROTANUM, ... or, according to most Southernwood."
Page 277--Attich amended to Attic--"... a small measure, equivalent to 15 Attic drachms"
Page 278--fewerfew amended to feverfew--"AMACARUS, sweet-marjoram, feverfew"
Page 279--Baracuda amended to Barracuda--"Barracuda, a fish, {Rx} 158"
Page 279--COLOSASIUM amended to COLOCASIUM--"Beans ... ---- "Egyptian," see COLOCASIUM"
Page 279--orrage amended to orage--"... the arrack or orage, also spinach, according to ..."
Page 279--omitted {Rx} added--"BUBULA, Beef, flesh of oxen, p. 30, {Rx} 351, 352"
Page 280--forno amended to Forno--"... with our illustrations of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii ..."
Page 280--Caviar amended to Caviare--"Caviare, see STYRIO"
Page 282--mussle amended to mussel--"... any hollow vessel resembling a mussel shell ..."
Page 283--maitre amended to maitre--"... to the PRINCEPS COQUORUM, the "maitre d'hotel" of the establishment ..."
Page 284--tumeric amended to turmeric--"CURCUMA ZEODARIA, turmeric"
Page 284--Destillation amended to Distillation and entry moved to proper place in the Index--"Distillation, see Vinum"
Page 286--illustratios amended to illustrations--"... on which the CRATICULA stood. Cf. illustrations, p. 182"
Page 287--Passianus amended to Passenianus--"Hare, ... ---- smoked Passenianus, {Rx} 389 ..."
Page 289--destillate amended to distillate--"... the juice or distillate of the herb by that name, ..."
Page 289--LIQORIBUS amended to LIQUORIBUS--"LIQUORIBUS, DE, p. 370"
Page 290--indispensible amended to indispensable--"... grown in Italy at his time, that are so indispensable ..."
Page 290--dog-brier amended to dog-briar--"... namely the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine is made into dainty confections ..."
Page 292--omitted page number added to entry for oval pan--"Oval pan, illustration, p. 159"
Page 294--forcement amended to forcemeat--"Pork ... ---- forcemeat, {Rx} 366"
Page 296--destillate amended to distillate--"... distillate from the joints of the bamboo or sugar cane, ..."
Page 297--SESESIL amended to SESELIS--"SESELIS, SEL, SIL, hartwort, kind of cumin"
Page 297--SISYMBRUM amended to SISYMBRIUM--"SISYMBRIUM, water cress"--and entry moved from following entry for SITULA to preceding it.
Page 297--Sternajola amended to Sternajolo--"Sternajolo, writer, Apiciana, No. 28, p. 273"
Page 299--omitted p. added--"Title pages, Venice, 1503, p. 262; ..."
Page 300--Rebecca amended to Rebekka--"Wolf, Rebekka, writer, {Rx} 205, seq."
Page 300--Wooley amended to Wolley, and entry moved to correct place in index--"Wolley, Mrs. Hannah, writer, {Rx} 52"
The following have also been noted:
The author has consistently used minuscle rather than minuscule when referring to manuscript. Since it appears deliberate, it has been preserved as printed.
Page 9 has a word obscured--"one of three known famous ---- bearing that name". Another source of the text has the word as 'eaters', so the same has been used here.
Page 23 has a reference to a "modern" sauce, A I. There were no obvious references to be found for a sauce of that name, so it may be a typo for A1 sauce, which was available at the time of writing. As there is no way to be certain, however, it has been preserved as printed.
Page 49--note to recipe 13 reads, "Exactly as we today with fried herring and river lamprey". It is possible that it should read "as we do today", but has been left as printed.
Page 151--recipe 241 has a note 1, but no marker in the text.
Page 166--recipe 275 has a marker for note 1, but no note with that number.
Page 172--Note 1 to recipe 294 reads "making it convenient and unprofitable for the domestic cook"--this should probably be read as "inconvenient and unprofitable", but it has been left as printed.
Page 175--recipe 305 has a marker for note 2, but no note with that number.
Page 189--recipe 351 has a marker for note 2, but no note with that number.
Page 211--recipe 405a has a marker for note 2, but no note with that number.
Page 226--there is no title for recipe 445.
Page 230--there is no Latin translation provided for the heading "EEL".
Page 243--recipe 481 is titled "FISH STEWED IN WINE", but does not mention wine anywhere in the recipe itself.
Page 284--contained incorrectly placed index entries for CLIBANUS, CNICOS and CNISSA (following COXA). These have been moved to the correct place.
Page 291--the index entry for Morsels also seems to have had the recipe references (309, seq.) for Morels included; this has been preserved as printed.
Page 291--contained incorrectly placed index entry for Mullet (following MUSTUM). This has been moved to the correct place.
Page 292--in the subentry for OLUS (OLUS AND CAULUS), there is an {Rx} but no number.
End of Project Gutenberg's Cooking and Dining in Imperial Rome, by Apicius