Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges

part 2, and Annual Register, 1778.

Chapter 92,553 wordsPublic domain

Turner, Capt. S., Account of an Embassy to the Court of the Teshoo Lama, in Tibet, 1 vol., 1806.

Webb and Raper, Journey to explore the sources of the Ganges. Asiatic Researches, vol. x.

Colebrooke, H., On the height of the Himala Mountains. Asiatic Researches, vol. xi.

Moorcroft, W., Journey to the Lake Mánasarówara. Asiatic Researches, vol. xii.

Kirkpatrick, Col. W., An Account of the Kingdom of Nepaul, 1 vol., 1811.

Hamilton, Francis, M.D., An Account of the Kingdom of Nepal, 1 vol., 1819.

Fraser, J. B., Tour through part of the Snowy Range of the Himalya Mountains, 1 vol., 1820.

Hodgson, B. H., Essays on Nepál and Tibet, etc., 2 vols., 1874; also no less than 170 papers to various periodicals, chiefly the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal. Cp. Report on the Mineralogical Survey of the Himala Mountains. J. A. S. B. xi., part 1, p. x.

Vigne, G. T., Travels in Cashmir, Ladak, etc., 2 vols., 1835.

Thomson, T., M.D., Western Himalaya and Tibet, 1 vol., 1852.

Moorcroft, W. and G. Trebeck, Travels in the Himalayan Provinces, etc., 2 vols., 1841.

Gerard, Capt. A., Account of Koonawur, in the Himalaya, 1 vol., 1841.

Gerard and Lloyd, Tours in the Himalaya, 2 vols., 1840.

Cunningham, Sir A., Ladák, Physical, Statistical, and Historical, 1 vol., 1854.

Strachey, R., Physical Geography of Kumaon and Gurhwal and the adjoining parts of Tibet. R. G. S. Journal, xxi., p. 57.

Strachey, Capt. H., Physical Geography of Western Tibet. R. G. S. Journal, xxiii., p. 2, published separately, 1 vol., 1854; also Journey to Lake Mánasarówar, 1 vol., 1848.

'Mountaineer' (Wilson), A Summer Ramble in the Himalayas and Cashmere, 1 vol., 1860.

Hooker, Sir J. D., Himalayan Journals, 2 vols., 1854.

Saunders, Trelawny W., Sketch of the Mountains and River Basins of India, in two maps, with explanatory memoirs. Geographical Department, India Office, 1870.

Gordon, Lieut.-Col. T. E., The Roof of the World, 1 vol., 1876.

Wilson, Andrew, The Abode of Snow, 1 vol., 1875.

Indian Alps and How we Crossed Them. By a Lady Pioneer, 1 vol., 1876.

Markham, Clements R., A Memoir on the Indian Surveys, 1 vol., 1871; 2nd ed., 1878.

Montgomerie, Major T. G., Reports on the Trans-Himalayan Explorations, 1865-1867, 1869, and 1871 (Indian Survey).

Shaw, R., Visits to High Tartary, Yârkand, and Kâshgar, 1 vol., 1871.

Torrens, Lieut.-Col. H. D., Travels in Ladak, Tartary, and Kashmir, 1 vol., 1862.

Bellew, Dr. H. W., Kashmir and Kashgar, 1 vol., 1875.

Drew, F., Jummoo and Kashmir Territories, 1 vol., 1875.

Bogle, G., and T. Manning, Narratives of their Journeys to Tibet and Lhasa, edited by Clements R. Markham, 1 vol., 1876.

Godwin-Austen, Col. H. H., Royal Geographical Society Journal, vol. xxxiv., p. 19.

Knight, Capt., Diary of a Pedestrian in Cashmere and Tibet, 1 vol., 1863.

Schlagintweit, H. and B., The Last Journeys and Death of Adolph Schlagintweit, 1854.

Conway, Sir W. M., Climbing in the Karakoram Himalayas, 1 vol., 1894.

Knight, E. F., Where Three Empires Meet, 1 vol., 1893.

MacCormick, A. D., An Artist in the Himalayas, 1 vol., 1895.

Waddell, L. A., Among the Himalayas, 1 vol., 1899.

Younghusband, F. E., The Heart of a Continent, 1 vol., 1896.

Boeck, K., Indische Gletcherfahrten, 1900.

Deasy, H. H. P., In Tibet and Chinese Turkestan, 1 vol., 1901.

Durand, A., Making of a Frontier, 1 vol., 1900.

Holdich, Col. Sir T. H., Indian Borderland, 1 vol., 1901.

Bose, P. N., Glaciers of Kabru, 1 vol., 1901.

Workman, Mrs. F. B. and Dr. W. H., In the Ice-World of Himalaya, 1 vol., 1900.

INDEX

A A^{21}. See Mount Monal. A^{22}, 17, 18. Achill Island, cliffs of, 233. A Chuilionn, 211. See Coolin Hills. Alberta, Mount, 149. Alps, The, mountaineering in, 165 _et seq._ Assiniboine group of mountains, 143, 145. Astor, 43, 123, 126. Astor valley, road down, 126. Athabasca pass, 144. Avalanche of stones, 72.

B Bagrot nullah explored, 20. Baker, Mount, 140. Balfour group of mountains, 144, 146. Ball group of mountains, 143, 145. Baltoro glacier ascended, 15, 21, 22. ---- ---- survey of the, 15. Bandipur, 32. Baramula, 28. Bear, red, 45, 62. Been Keragh, 237, 240. Ben Eighe, climb on, 274 _et seq._ Ben Nevis, ascent of Tower Ridge of, 288 _et seq._; observatory on summit of, 296. Biafo glacier, 21, 24. Blanc, Mont, ascent of, by Brenva route, 175. Bogle, G., Mission to Tibet, 8. Boss, Emil, 17. Bow range, 143. Brandon, 237, 240. Brown, Mount, 149. Bruce, Major C. G., 20, 21, 23; ascents near Chitral, 23; do. near Hunza, 23; do. near Nagyr, 23; do. of Ragee-Bogee peaks, 23; meets us at Tashing, 68; returns to Abbottabad, 81; climbing in the Alps by, 178. Buldar nullah, 123. Bullock-Workman, Mount, ascent of, 24. ---- Dr. and Mrs., climbing in Ladak and Suru by, 24. Butesharon glacier, 80; pass, 81. Bunar Post, 132. Burzil or Dorikoon pass, 34. Bush peak, 147.

C Caher, 237, 240. Camping, 154, 182. Canada, size of, 136. Carran Tuohill, 237, 239. Chiche peak, 42; glacier, ascent of, 49. Chilas, 26; road to, 127. ---- tribesmen, raids by, 40. Chongra peaks, 43, 119, 123. Choonjerma pass, 11. Chorit, 36. Collier, J., 253, 259. Columbia group of mountains, 144, 148. ---- Mount, 148. ---- river, 141. Connemara, the twelve Bens of, 236. Conway, Sir W. Martin, mountain exploration by, 20, 21, 23. Coolin Hills, appearance and description of, 217 _et seq._, 234. Coomacarrea, 241. Coomacullen, Lough, 241. Croaghann, 233. Crystal peak ascended, 21.

D Daranshi Saddle climbed, 21. Dashkin, 123. Dasskaram needle ascended, 21. Devadhunga, 9, 11, 12, 20, 24. Dhaltar peaks, ascent of, 23. Diama glacier, 116; pass, 116, 120. Diamirai glacier explored, 62, 82. ---- nullah, 59; camp in, 61; return to, 81; storm in, 111; upper camp in, 83, 109, 113; leave, 116; last visit to, 133.

---- pass crossed, 64.

---- peak, 88; view from slopes of, 91; summit of, 97; south-west arête of, 100. Dichil peak, 72, 123. Divide, Great, 140, 142. Doian, 126. Dome peak, 148. Donegal, 227. Donkia pass, 12, 16. Drew, 14. Dunagiri, 16; attempted ascent of, 17.

E Elias, Mount St., 136. Everest. See Devadhunga.

F Forbes Group of Mountains, 144, 147. Forsyth, 213. Fortress Lake pass, 144. Fraser river, 140; canyon, 141. Freshfield, D., Tour of Kanchenjunga, 24. ---- Mount, 147.

G Ganalo nullah crossed, 118; glacier, 119; camp in, 119. ---- peak, 82, 116, 124. Garhwal, 9. Garwood, E., 24. Gerard, Captain, ascents by, 11. Gjeitgaljar, 192; ascent of, 204. Glaciers, effect of, 190. Godwin, Austen H. H., survey of mountains by, 15. Golden Throne, 22. Goman Singh, 69; takes servants, etc., over Mazeno La, 73, 117, 124. ---- ---- pass, 89, 118. Gonar peak, 118. Goodsir group of mountains, 143, 145. Gor, inhabitants of, 122. Graham, W. W., ascents by, 16. Guicho La, 17, 19. Gurais, 34. Gurdon, Capt. B. E. M., ascent near Nagyr, 23. Gusherbrum, 15.

H Haramosh, 127. Haramukh, 29. Harkabir Thapa, 23, 178. Harman, Capt., visits Donkia pass, 16. Hart, H. C., 226, 230. Haskett-Smith, W. P., 247. Hastings, G., 27; arrives at Chiche glacier camp, 56; returns to Rupal nullah and Astor, 87; crosses Mazeno La, 90; returns to Diamirai nullah to search for Mummery, 122, 125, 175, 191, 247, 256. ---- Warren, frontier policy, 8. Hatu Pir, view from, 127, 129. Higraf Tind, 192; ascent of, 197. Himalaya, peaks over 24,000 feet, 6, 307. ---- exclusion from, 7. ---- Mountaineering Club, 14. Hindu Kush range, 26. Hispar pass crossed, 21, 24. Hooker, Sir Joseph, Sikkim Journeys, 11. ---- group of mountains, 144. ---- Mount, 149. Howse pass, 144.

I Ibi-Gamin. See Kamet. Imboden, Joseph, 16. Indus valley, 127; heat in, 130.

J Johnson, Dr., 50, 211; description of Skye by, 212. ---- W. H., ascents by, 13. Jonsong La crossed, 24. Jubonu, 18; ascent of, 19.

K

K^{2}, 15, 21, 22; seen from slopes of Nanga Parbat, 71. Kabru, 16, 18; ascent of, 19; objections to claimed ascent of, 19. Kamet, attempted ascents of, 13, 16. Kamri pass crossed, 34. Kanchenjunga, 12, 16, 17, 18, 24. Kang La, ascent of peak near, 19. Karakoram range. See Mustagh range. ---- pass, 13. Kashmir, journey from Rawul Pindi to, 28; valley of, 29. Kauffmann, Ulrich, 17. Kerry Hills, 237 _et seq._ Khaghan, 23. Kicking Horse pass, 143. Kishnganga valley, description of, 33. Kongra-Lama pass, 12. Koser Gunge, ascent of, 24. Kulu, 9. Kumaon, 9.

L Langstrandtinder, ascent of, 195. Laurence, W. R., description of valley of Kashmir, 30. Lechre, landslip blocks Indus at 26, 129. Leo Porgyul, 11. Liskom pass, 123. Lofoten Islands, 185; fish trade of, 203; rain in the, 201; visits to the, 207; climate of, 187; scenery of, 189. Logan, Mount, 136. Lor Khan, 83, 89; accident to, 96; 109. Louise lake, 145. Lubar nullah, camp in, 79. ---- glacier, 59. ---- torrent, 107. Lyell, Mount, 147.

M Macgillicuddy's Reeks. See Kerry Hills, 237. Maelström, description of, 185. Manning, T., Mission to Tibet, 8. Markhor, 60. Masherbrum, 15. Mazeno La, 42; cross the, 57; cross second time, 66; cross third time, 77; Bruce crosses the, 81; Hastings crosses, 90. ---- peaks, 42. M'Kinley, Mount, 136. Monal, Mount, 16; ascent of, 17, 18. Montgomerie, Capt. T. G., survey of mountains by, 15. Mösadlen, 192. Moss ghyll, climb up, 256. Mountains, description of Himalayan, 50; Canadian Rocky, 143. Lofoten 191; Scotch, 220; Irish, 226. Mummery, A. F., 27; explores western face of Nanga Parbat, 82; ascends Diamirai peak, 97; starts for Bunar, 105; takes provisions up rocks of Nanga Parbat, 83, 109; spends night on rocks of Nanga Parbat, 110, 114; starts for ascent of Nanga Parbat, 113; starts for Diama pass, 116; probable fate of, 124; climbing in Alps, 174; climbing near Wastdale Head, 246. Murree, 28. Mustagh range, view of, 91, 128. ---- pass, 22. ---- tower, description of, 21.

N Nanda Devi, 12, 16, 17, 18. Nanga Parbat, 26; view of from Kamri pass, 34; glacier, 45; south face, view of, 47; western face, view of, 61; Mummery explores western face, 82; provisions left on, 83; climbing on, 83; avalanches on, 83, 111, 114, 124, 133; attempted ascent of, 114; northern face of, 120. Nepaul, enormous peaks north of, 12, 16. Nicholson, A., derivation of the name of the Coolin, 235. Night out at 19,000 ft., 75. Nun Kun peaks, 24, 29. Nushik La crossed, 21.

O Ottertail Range, 143.

P Pennant, 213. Phillip, Colin B., 233, 270, 273. Pillar rock, climbing on, 251. Pioneer peak, 20, 23. Prairie, description of, 138. Priestman, H., 191. Pundim, 17, 19. Punmah glacier, 15.

R Ragee-Bogee Peaks ascended, 23. Ragobir Thapa, 69, 82, 89, 113, 117, 124. Rakiot nullah, 116; arrive in, 120; explore, 121. Rakiot glacier, 120. ---- peak, 42. Rakipushi, 127. Ramghat, 127. Rattu, 35. Red pass, 118. Robinson, J. W., 247, 255, 260. Robson, description of Grampians by, 214. Rocky Mountains, Canadian, 135; future of, 137; approach to, 138, 140; travelling in, 150; dense forests on west side of, 156. Rosamir, head coolie, 116. Rulten, 192; attempted ascent of, 201. Rupal nullah, arrival in, 38; description of, 41; journey up, 44. ---- peak, 42; glacier, 42.

S Samayar Glacier, 21. Schlagintweit, Adolf and Robert, exploration of Himalaya, 12. Screes, climb up the great gully of the, 254. Selkirk mountains, 142. Sella, Signor V., 24. Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh, climb on, 219. Shallihuru glacier, 21. Shandur pass, 35. Sheep, price of, 59. Shikara pass, 23. Shikari, robbed by, 106. Sickness, mountain, 11, 58, 98. Siegfried Horn, ascent of, 24. Simpson pass, 143. Slieve League, climbing on, 230; sea caves near, 231. Slingsby, C., 247. Solly, G., 252. Spiti, 9. Stewart, Capt., 125. ---- Lieut. C. G., Chitral Relief Expedition, 35. Swat country, peaks in, 60, 81.

T Tashing, 36, 40. ---- river crossed, 36. ---- glacier ascended, 70; descended, 72. Temple group mountains, 143, 145. Thompson pass, 144. Thosho pass, 39; peak, 42. Tirich Mir, 26; seen from slopes of Nanga Parbat, 81. Tragbal or Raj Diangan pass, 33. Travers, M. W., 271. Trisuli peaks, 17. Trold Fjord, 199, 205. Troldfjordvatn, 199, 205. Tunkra pass, 12.

V Vaage Kallen, 192. Vermilion pass, 143.

W Wapta Range, 144, 146. Wastdale Head, climbing near, 245 _et seq._ Wicklow Mountains, 229, 242. Woolar lake, description of, 31; storm on, 32. Woolley, H., 191.

Y Younghusband, Captain F., climb with Major Bruce, 23.

Z Zaipur, 36. Zurbriggen, M., 20, 24.

Edinburgh: Printed by T. and A. CONSTABLE

Now Ready.

_In One Volume, Royal 8vo, with Illustrations, price 36s. net._

* * * * *

THE ALPS IN 1864 A PRIVATE JOURNAL

BY A. W. MOORE

EDITED BY ALEX. B. W. KENNEDY, LL.D., F.R.S.

MEMBER OF THE ALPINE CLUB

Moore's privately printed Journal of 1864 has long been one of the rarest and most coveted books of Alpine adventure. The Author was a climber of marvellous energy, and climbed, for the pure pleasure of climbing, in days when the Alps were not 'hung in chains,' and when virgin peaks and passes still remained in comparative plenty. Few of his contemporaries had so wide a knowledge of the mountains as he had, and few were able to make so many first ascents; while few, it may be said without offence, spoke and wrote of their doings in so simple, genial, and unaffected a fashion.

'The writer succeeds in bringing the actual conditions of the climb home to the reader in a manner calculated at times almost to take his breath away. He makes one believe that it would be possible to go and repeat the exact route merely from his description. As we follow him over the ice-wall and along the _arêtes_ of the Ecrins, through the hurricanes on the Dom, across the awful barrier of the Moming Pass, and up the hanging glaciers of the Brenva, we feel as if we were ourselves standing amid the snows and rocks of the Alpine giants as we sit in our arm-chair waiting till the return of a summer holiday sends us once again to the happy hunting ground.'--_Spectator._

'The work will prove not only a monument to the memory of a man of rare culture, of great public capacity, and of unusual mountaineering experience, but also a notable addition to permanent Alpine literature.'--_Birmingham Post._

'The keynote of the whole book is its frank, hearty, straightforward naturalness. It breathes the very air of the mountains, and is instinct in every page with the spirit of the true mountaineer.'--_Birmingham Gazette._

'Contains a better collection of Alpine plates than we have ever before seen brought together in a book. The volume would be worth buying for the plates alone.'--_Times._

'One of the most vivid and fascinating books of Alpine travel which has ever been written.'--_Alpine Journal._

'Moore's book will be classed with the very best in its department of literature with the works of Mummery and Mr. Whymper and Mr. Leslie Stephen.'--_Glasgow Herald._

'Mr. Moore was an ardent and successful mountain climber,' with a remarkable topographical faculty and a retentive and accurate memory. He wrote in an easy style with much descriptive power and quiet humour.'--_Standard._

* * * * *

_In Preparation, One Volume, with Illustrations_

A Book on Climbing in Norway

_with chapters on the physical features, etc., of the country_.

BY WM. CECIL SLINGSBY.

* * * * *

EDINBURGH: DAVID DOUGLAS, 10 CASTLE STREET.

* * * * *

Transcriber's note:

Obvious misspellings and omissions were corrected.

Errors in punctuation and inconsistent hyphenation were not corrected unless otherwise noted.

The illustrations have been moved so that they do not break up paragraphs and so that they are next to the text they illustrate.