Part 2

B. M. Atchinson & Co. Butter, Cheese, Eggs, Lard 92

Kohler & Frohling, California Wines and Brandies 93

Richards & Harrison, Agents for English Groceries 94

Robert F. Bunker, Hams, Bacon 95

Edouart's Art Gallery 96

E. R. Perrin's Quaker Dairy 97

Hills Bros., Coffee, Teas and Spices 98

Emil A. Engelberg, German Bakery & Confectionery 98

A. W. Fink, Butter, Cheese, Eggs 99

J. Gundlach & Co., California Wines and Brandies 100

Lebenbaum, Goldberg & Bowen, Grocers 101

Women's Co-operative Printing Office 102

W. W. Montague & Co., French Ranges 103

Mark Sheldon, Sewing Machines and Supplies 104

CLAYTON'S

Quaker Cook-Book.

SOUPS.

Stock.

The foundation--so to speak--and first great essential in compounding every variety of appetizing, and at the same time wholesome and nourishing soups, is the stock. In this department, as in some others, the French cooks have ever been pre-eminent. It was said of this class in the olden time that so constantly was the "stock"--as this foundation has always been termed--replenished by these cooks, that their rule was never to see the bottom of the soup kettle. It has long been a fixed fact that in order to have good soup you must first have good stock to begin with. To make this stock, take the liquor left after boiling fresh meat, bones, (large or small, cracking the larger ones in order to extract the marrow,) bones and meat left over from a roast or broil, and put either or all of these in a large pot or soup kettle, with water enough to cover. Let these simmer slowly--never allowing the water to boil--taking care, however, to keep the vessel covered--stirring frequently, and pouring in occasionally a cup of cold water, and skimming off the scum. It is only where fresh meat is used that cold water is applied at the commencement; for cooked meat, use warm. The bones dissolved in the slow simmering, furnish the gelatine so essential to good stock. One quart of water to a pound of meat is the average rule. Six to eight hours renders it fit for use. Let stand over night; skim off the fat; put in an earthen jar, and it is ready for use. Every family should keep a jar of the stock constantly on hand, as by doing so any kind of soup may be made from it in from ten to thirty minutes.

General Directions for Making Soup.

Having prepared your stock according to the foregoing directions, take a sufficient quantity, when soup is required, and season, as taste may dictate, with sweet and savory herbs--salpicant, celery salt, or any other favorite seasoning--adding vegetables cut fine, and let the same boil slowly in a covered vessel until thoroughly cooked. If preferred, after seasoning the stock, it may be thickened with either barley, rice, tapioca, sago, vermicelli, macaroni, farina or rice flour. A roast onion is sometimes added to give richness and flavor. It is a well-known fact that soups properly prepared improve in flavor and are really better on the day after than when first made. By substituting different materials, garnitures, flavorings and condiments, of which an endless variety is available, the intelligent housewife may be able to furnish a different soup for every day of the year. In following these, as in all other directions for every department of cookery, experience will, after all, be found the great teacher and most valuable aid and adjunct to the learner of the art.

Calves'-Head Soup.

Take a calf's head of medium size; wash clean, and soak it an hour or more in salted water; then soak a little while in fresh, and put to boil in cold water; add a little salt and a medium-sized onion; take off the scum as it rises, and as the water boils away add a little soup stock; when quite tender take the meat from the bone, keeping the brain by itself; strain the soup, and if you think there is too much meat, use a portion as a side-dish dressed with brain sauce; do not cut the meat too fine--and season the soup with allspice, cloves and mace, adding pepper and salt to taste; put back the meat, and taking one-half the brain, a lump of butter, and a spoonful of flour, work to a thin batter, stirring in claret and sherry wines to taste, and last of all add a little extract of lemon, and one hard-boiled egg, chopped not too fine; if desirable add a few small force-meat balls.

[Turtle soup may be made in the same manner.]

Ox-Tail Soup.

Take one ox-tail and divide into pieces an inch long; 2 pounds of lean beef cut in small pieces; 4 carrots; 3 onions sliced fine; a little thyme, with pepper and salt to taste, and 4 quarts cold water; boil four hours or more, according to size of the ox-tail, and when done add a little allspice or cloves.

Okra Soup.

One large slice of ham; 1 pound of beef, veal or chicken, and 1 onion, all cut in small pieces and fried in butter together until brown, adding black or red pepper for seasoning, along with a little salt, adding in the meantime, delicately sliced thin, sufficient okra, and put all in a porcelain kettle. For a family of four use 30 pods of okra, with 2 quarts water, over a steady, but not too hot fire; boil slowly for 3 or 4 hours; when half done add 2 or 3 peeled tomatoes.

Chicken Gumbo.

[Mrs. E. A. Wilburn's Recipe.]

For the stock, take two chickens and boil in a gallon of water until thoroughly done and the liquid reduced to half a gallon. Wipe off 1-1/2 pounds of green okra, or if the dry is used, 1/2 pound is sufficient, which cut up fine and add to this stock while boiling; next add 1-1/2 pounds of ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped fine, adding also 1/2 coffee cupful of rice; let these boil for six hours, adding boiling water when necessary; then take out the chickens, carve and fry them brown in clear lard; into the fat put 1 large white onion, chopped fine, adding 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. Just before serving, put the chicken, boned and chopped, with the gravy thus prepared, and add to the soup with salt and pepper to taste.

Fresh Oyster Soup.

Take 25 or 30 small Eastern and 50 California oysters; wash clean, and put into a kettle over the fire, with a little over a pint of water. As soon as they open pour into a pan and take the oysters from the shells, pouring the juice into a pitcher to settle. If the oysters are large, cut in two once; return the juice to the fire, and when it boils put in a piece of butter worked in flour; season with pepper and salt, and let it boil slowly for two minutes; put in a cupful of rich milk and the oysters, along with a sufficient quantity of chopped crackers, and let the liquid boil up once. Should you need a larger quantity of soup, add a can of good oysters, as they will change the flavor but little. In my opinion nutmeg improves the flavor of the soup.

Fish Chowder.

Take 4 pounds of fresh codfish--the upper part of the fish is best; fry plenty of salt pork cut in small strips; put the fat in the bottom of the kettle, then a layer of the fried pork, next a layer of fish; follow with a layer of potato sliced--not too thin--and a layer of sliced onions, seasoned with plenty of salt and pepper; alternate these layers as long as the material holds out, topping off with a layer of hard crackers. Use equal parts of water and milk sufficient to cook, which will not require more than three-quarters of an hour, over a good fire. Great care should be taken not to scorch in the cooking.

[Clam Chowder may be made according to the foregoing formula, substituting 3 pints of clams for the fish.]

Clam Soup.

Take 50 small round clams; rinse clean, and put in a kettle with a pint of water; boil for a few minutes, or until the shells gape open; empty into a pan, pick the meat from the shells, and pour the juice into a pitcher to settle; chop the clams quite small; return the juice to the fire, and as soon as hot, work in a good-sized lump of butter, with a little flour, and juice of the clams; stir in a teacup of milk; season with black pepper, and after letting this boil for two minutes, put in the clams, adding at the same time chopped cracker or nudels, and before taking up, a little chopped parsley.

Clam Chowder.

One hundred small clams chopped fine; 1/2 pound fat salt pork put in pot and fried out brown; 2 small or 1 large onion, and 1 tomato chopped fine. Put all in the pot with the clam juice and boil for two hours, after which add rolled crackers and 1 pint hot milk, letting it boil up. Season with salt and pepper, adding a little thyme if agreeable to taste.

Baked Beans and Bean Soup.

Take three pints of white peas or army beans; wash very clean; soak eight hours; rinse and put to boil with plenty of water, hot or cold, with 1-1/2 pounds beef soup-meat and 1/2 pound of salt pork, letting these boil slowly, and skimming as the scum rises. Stir frequently, as the beans are apt to scorch when they begin to soften. When soft enough to be easily crushed with the thumb and finger, season with plenty of black pepper and salt; after five minutes have elapsed fill a nice baking pan--such a one as will do to set on the table--pour in the liquid until it nearly covers the beans, score the pork and put it half-way down in the beans, and bake in a slow fire until nicely browned.

When the remaining beans are boiled quite soft rub them through a colander into the soup; add 1 pint of milk, and season with ground cloves or mace. Just before taking up cut some toast the size of the end of a finger and add to the soup. Pepper sauce gives a nice flavor.

Dry Split-Pea Soup.

Soak one quart dry or split peas ten or twelve hours, and put on to boil in 1 gallon of water, with 1 pound soup-beef, and a small piece of the hock end of ham, nicely skinned and trimmed, (but if you do not have this at hand supply its place with a small piece of salt pork;) season with salt, pepper and a little ground cloves, adding a little curry or sweet marjoram; boil slowly until quite tender; rub the peas through a colander, adding a little rich milk. This soup should be rather thick. Cut bread in pieces the size of the little finger, fry in butter or lard, and put in the tureen when taken up.

Tomato Soup.

To one gallon good beef stock add 1-1/2 dozen ripe tomatoes, or 1 two-pound can; 2 carrots, 2 onions and 1 turnip cut fine; boil all together for an hour and a half, and run through a fine tin strainer; take a stewpan large enough to hold the liquid, and put it on the fire with 1/2 pound of butter worked in two tablespoonfuls of flour; after mixing well together add a tablespoonful of white sugar; season with salt and pepper to taste, stirring well until the liquor boils, when skim and serve. The above quantity will provide sufficient for a large family.

Celery Soup.

To make good celery soup take 2 or 3 pounds of juicy beef--the round is best, being free from fat. Cover with cold water, and boil slowly for three or four hours. An hour before taking from the fire take 1 pound or more of celery, cut 4 or 5 inches long, taking also the root cut thin, and salting to taste, boil until quite tender; then take out the celery, dressing with pepper and salt or drawn butter. If you have some soup stock put in a little, boil a few minutes and strain. This is a most palatable soup, and the celery, acting as a sedative, is one of the best things that can be used for quieting the nerves.

Pepper-Pot.

Take thick, fat and tender tripe; wash thoroughly in water in which a little soda has been dissolved; rinse well, and cut in strips half the length of your little finger; after boiling ten minutes, put in a colander and rinse with a little hot water; then, adding good soup stock, boil until tender; season with cayenne pepper and salt, a little Worcestershire or Chutney sauce, and some small pieces of dough made as for nudels. Should the soup not be thick enough add a little paste of butter and flour; you may also add curry if you are fond of it.

This soup was popular in the Quaker City fifty years ago, and has never decreased in favor among the intelligent inhabitants.

Egg-Balls for Soup.

Boil 3 eggs seven minutes, and mash the yolks with one raw egg, a tablespoonful of flour and a little milk; season with pepper, salt, and parsley or summer savory; make into balls and boil two or three minutes, and put in the soup just before serving. Excellent for both pea and bean soup.

Nudels.

Rich nudels undoubtedly form the best thickening for nice, delicate soups, such as chicken, veal, oyster and clam. Nudels are made with flour, milk and eggs, and a little salt, mixed to stiff dough, rolled as thin as possible, and cut in fine shreds the length of the little finger. In all soups where nudels are used, a little chopped parsley should be added just before taking up.

FISH.

Fish.

The so-termed food fishes are to be found without number in all portions of the world, civilized and savage, and a large portion of the inhabitants of the globe are dependant upon this source for their subsistence. Certain learned physiologists have put forth the theory that food-fish is brain-producing, and adds to the mental vigor of those who subsist upon it. While we are not disposed to controvert this consoling idea--if the theory be true--the South Sea savages, who live upon this aliment, both in the raw and cooked state--and the Esquimaux, whose principal summer and winter diet is frozen fish--should be the most intelligent people on earth.

The modes of preparing fish for the table are equally as numerous as the species. The direction given by Mrs. Glass, in a cook-book of the olden time, is at the same time the most original and most sensible. This lady commences with: "First catch your fish."

Boiled Fish.

Fresh fish should never lie in water. As soon as cleaned, rinse off, wipe dry, wrap carefully in a cotton cloth, and put into salted boiling water. If cooked in this manner the juice and flavor will be fully retained. Twenty minutes boiling will thoroughly cook a medium sized fish.

Fried Fish.

In frying large-sized fish, cut the slices lengthwise instead of across, for if cut against the grain the rich juices will be lost in the cooking, rendering the fish hard, dry and tasteless. For this reason fish are always better cooked whole, when this can be done. Beat up one or two eggs, with two tablespoonfuls of milk, with salt to season. After dipping the fish in this, dry in cracker dust--never use corn meal--and fry in good lard.

Broiling Fish.

In broiling fish, cut large as in frying, grease the bars of the gridiron. Harden both sides slightly, and baste with butter, seasoning with pepper and salt.

Fried Oysters.

Take large oysters, drain the juice, and dry them with a cloth, and run them in eggs, well beaten with a little milk; season with pepper and a little salt, and after drying in cracker dust, fry in equal parts best lard and butter, until a light brown.

Oysters in Batter.

Save all the juice of the oysters; beat two eggs with two or three spoonfuls of milk or cream, seasoning with pepper; put this into the juice, with the addition of as much flour as will make a rich batter. When the fat is quite hot put into it a spoonful of the batter, containing one oyster, and turn quickly in order that both sides may be nicely done brown.

Oyster Patties.

Roll good puff-paste quite thin--and cut in round pieces 3-1/2 inches in diameter, on which put a rim of dough, about 1 inch or less high, which may be stuck on with a little beaten egg; next add a top-piece or covering, fitting loosely, and bake in this until a light brown, and put away until wanted. Stew oysters in their own juice, adding a little butter and cream; fill the patties with this, put on the lid, and set in the oven for five minutes, and send to the table. Can oysters, with a rich gravy, make an excellent patty prepared in this way.

Stewed Lobsters or Crabs.

Take a two-pound can of lobster, or two large crabs, and cut as for making salad, and season highly with prepared mustard, cayenne pepper, curry powder, or sauce piquant, and salt to taste. Put in a porcelain stewpan, with a little water, to prevent scorching, and, after letting it boil up once, add butter the size of an egg, and one tablespoonful of vinegar, or half a teacupful of white wine, and the juice of half a lemon, and the moment this boils add half a teacupful of cream or good milk, stirring at the same time. Set the stew aside, and heat up shortly before sending to the table. Putting slices of toast in the bottom of the dish before serving is a decided improvement.

Roast, Boiled, Baked, Broiled and Fried.

Retaining the Juices in Cooking Meats.

Too little attention is paid to one of the most important features of the culinary art--particularly in roasting, boiling, and broiling--that is the retention of the natural juices of various meats in cooking. Existing, as these always do, in a liquid form, unless this is carefully guarded against, these palatable and health-giving essences of all animal food, both tame and game, are apt to be wasted and dissipated in various forms, when the exercise of mature judgment and a little care would confine them to these meats in the course of preparation. By way of illustration, let us suppose that a fowl, a leg of mutton, or some of the many kinds of fish frequently served up in this way, is to be boiled in water. If put in cold water, and the heat gradually raised until it reaches the boiling point, the health-giving albumen--with the juices which give each its peculiar and pleasant flavor--are extracted from the meat and dissolved and retained in the water, rendering the flesh and fish insipid and in some cases almost tasteless. If, however, these are plunged at once into boiling water, thereby on the instant coagulating the albumen of the surface at least, and thereby closing the pores through which the inside albuminous juices would otherwise exude and be lost. Besides this albumen, there are other juices which are among the most important constituent parts of every variety of animal food in which are embodied much of its fine flavor and nutritive qualities, and deprived of which such food becomes unpalatable and tasteless. All meats, then, instead of being put into cold water, should at the start be plunged into boiling hot water, as this prevents the escape of these juices, and the retaining not only the delicate and fine flavor of the meat, but confining and retaining its nutritive qualities where they naturally and properly belong.

Roast Pig.

Take a sucking pig--one from three to five weeks old is best. When properly dressed lay in salted water for half an hour; take out and wipe dry inside and out; make a stuffing of bread and butter, mixing to a proper consistency with milk and a well beaten egg; season with salt, pepper and sage, with the addition of thyme or summer savory, and an onion chopped fine and stewed in butter with flour. Sew up, and roast for a long time in an oven not too hot, first putting a little water with lard or dripping in the pan. Baste frequently until done, taking care to keep the pan a little distance above the bottom of the range.

To Roast Turkeys and Chickens.

Turkeys and chickens for roasting should never be over a year old. After being properly cleaned, cut the wings at the first joint from the breast, pull the skin down the lower end of the neck, and cut off the bone. Cut the necks, wings and gizzards into small pieces suitable for giblet stew--which should be put on the fire before preparing the fowls for roasting--which should be done by cutting off the legs at the first joint from the feet. Make the stuffing of good bread, rubbed fine, with butter, pepper and salt, and a teaspoonful of baking powder, seasoning with thyme or summer savory, mixing to the consistency of dough, adding eggs, well beaten, with good milk or cream. Fill the breast, and tie over the neck-bone with strong twine, rubbing the sides of the fowl with a dry cloth, afterwards filling quite full. Sew up tight, tie up the legs, and encase the body with strong twine, wrapped around to hold the wings to the body. After rubbing well with salt and dredging lightly with flour, put the fowl in a pan, laying on top two or three thin slices of fat pork, salt or fresh. Put a little water in the pan, and baste frequently, but do not roast too rapidly; raise the pan at least two inches from the bottom of the range. All white meat should invariably be cooked well done, and turkey or chicken, to be eaten cold, should be wrapped while warm in paper or cloth. When prepared in this way they will always be found soft and tender when cooled.

When the giblets are stewed tender--which they must be in order to be good--chop a handful of the green leaves of celery, adding pepper and salt, and put in. Ten minutes before taking from the fire add a lump of butter worked in with a tablespoonful of flour and the yolk of two boiled eggs, letting simmer two or three minutes, then put in the whites of the eggs, chopped fine, with the addition of a little good milk or cream. Some of this stew, mixed with the drippings of the fowl, makes the best possible gravy.

Roasting Beef.

Never wash meat; simply wipe with a damp cloth, rub with salt and dredge with flour; put in the pan with a little of the suet chopped fine, and a teacupful of water; set in a hot oven, two inches above the bottom. The oven should be quite hot, in order to close the pores on the surface of the meat as quickly as possible. As the meat hardens reduce the heat a little, basting frequently. Turn two or three times during the roasting, taking care not to let the gravy scorch. Meat cooked in this way will be tender and juicy, and when done will be slightly red in the centre. Should it prove too rare, carve thin and lay in a hot pan with a little gravy for one minute. Beef will roast in from one and-half to two hours, according to size. All meats may be roasted in the same way, taking care in every case, that the albuminous juices do not escape.

A Good Way to Roast a Leg of Mutton.

Into a kettle, with hot water enough to cover, put a leg of mutton. Let it boil half an hour, and the moment it is taken from the water, salt, pepper, and dredge with flour, and put on to roast with one-half a teacup of water in the pan. Baste frequently, first adding a tablespoonful of lard. Cooked in this way the meat has none of the peculiar mutton flavor which is distasteful to many.

Clayton's Mode of Cooking Canvas-back Ducks.

That most delicately flavored wild fowl, the canvas-back duck, to be properly cooked, should be prepared in the following style:

The bird being properly dressed and cleaned, place in the opening, after drawing, a tablespoonful of salt dissolved in water--some add a stick of celery, or celery salt, to flavor, but this is not necessary. Sew up the opening with strong thread; have your fire in the grate red hot--that is, the oven almost red hot; place your duck therein, letting it remain nineteen minutes--which will be amply sufficient time if your oven is at the proper heat--but as tastes differ in this as in other matters of cookery, some prefer a minute longer and others one less. Serve the duck as hot as possible, with an accompanying dish of hominy, boiled, of course; the only condiment to be desired is a little cayenne pepper; some prefer a squeeze of lemon on the duck; others currant jelly; but the simplest and most palatable serving is the directions given.

Clayton's Mode of Cooking California Quail, or Young Chickens.