Part 1

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CLAYTON'S

Quaker Cook-Book,

BEING A

PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE CULINARY ART

ADAPTED TO THE TASTES AND WANTS

OF ALL CLASSES.

With plain and easily understood directions for the preparation of every variety of food in the most attractive forms. Comprising the result of a life-long experience in catering to a host of highly cultivated tastes.

--BY--

San Francisco: WOMEN'S CO-OPERATIVE PRINTING OFFICE. 1883.

Copyrighted according to Act of Congress, A. D. 1883, by H. J. Clayton.

PREFACE.

One of the sacred writers of the olden time is reported to have said: "Of the making of many books, there is no end." This remark will, to a great extent, apply to the number of works published upon the all important subject of Cookery. The oft-repeated saying, attributed to old sailors, that the Lord sends victuals, and the opposite party, the cooks, is familiar to all.

Notwithstanding the great number and variety of so-called cookbooks extant, the author of this treatise on the culinary art, thoroughly impressed with the belief that there is ample room for one more of a thoroughly practical and every day life, common sense character--in every way adapted to the wants of the community at large, and looking especially to the preparation of healthful, palatable, appetizing and nourishing food, both plain and elaborately compounded--and in the preparation of which the very best, and, at the same time, the most economical material is made use of, has ventured to present this new candidate for the public approval. The preparation of this work embodies the result of more than thirty years personal and practical experience. The author taking nothing for granted, has thoroughly tested the value and entire correctness of every direction he has given in these pages. While carefully catering to the varied tastes of the mass, everything of an unhealthful, deleterious, or even doubtful character, has been carefully excluded; and all directions are given in the plainest style, so as to be readily understood, and fully comprehended by all classes of citizens.

The writer having been born and brought up on a farm, and being in his younger days of a delicate constitution, instead of joining in the rugged work of the field, remained at home to aid and assist his mother in the culinary labors of the household. It was in this home-school--in its way one of the best in the world, that he acquired not only a practical knowledge of what he desires to fully impart to others, but a taste for the preparation, in its most attractive forms, of every variety of palatable and health-giving food. It was his early training in this homely school that induced him to make this highly important matter an all-absorbing theme and the subject of his entire life study. His governing rule in this department has ever been the injunction laid down by the chief of the Apostles: "Try all things; prove all things; and hold fast that which is good."

INTRODUCTORY.

A Brief History of the Culinary Art, and its Principal Methods.

Cooking is defined to be the art of dressing, compounding and preparing food by the aid of heat. Ancient writers upon the subject are of opinion that the practice of this art followed immediately after the discovery of fire, and that it was at first an imitation of the natural processes of mastication and digestion. In proof of the antiquity of this art, mention is made of it in many places in sacred writ. Among these is notably the memoirs of the Children of Israel while journeying in the wilderness, and their hankering after the "flesh-pots of Egypt."

Among the most enlightened people of ancient times,--cooking, if not regarded as one of the fine arts, certainly stood in the foremost rank among the useful. It was a highly honored vocation, and many of the most eminent and illustrious characters of Greece and Rome did not disdain to practice it. Among the distinguished amateurs of the art, in these modern times, may be mentioned Alexander Dumas, who plumed himself more upon his ability to cook famous dishes than upon his world-wide celebrity as the author of the most popular novels of his day.

In the state in which man finds most of the substances used for food they are difficult of digestion. By the application of heat some of these are rendered more palatable and more easily digested, and, consequently, that assimilation so necessary to the sustenance of life, and the repair of the constant waste attendant upon the economy of the human system. The application of heat to animal and vegetable substances, for the attainment of this end, constitutes the basis of the science of cookery.

Broiling, which was most probably the mode first resorted to in the early practice of this art, being one of the most common of its various operations, is quite simple and efficacious. It is especially adapted to the wants of invalids, and persons of delicate appetites. Its effect is to coagulate, in the quickest manner, upon the surface the albumen of the meat, effectually sealing up its pores, and thus retaining the rich juices and delicate flavor that would otherwise escape and be lost.

Roasting comes next in order, and for this two conditions are essentially requisite--a good, brisk fire, and constant basting. As in the case of broiling, care should be taken at the commencement to coagulate the albumen on the surface as speedily as possible. Next to broiling and stewing, this is the most economical mode of cooking meats of all kinds.

Baking meat is in very many respects objectionable--and should never be resorted to when other modes of cooking are available, as it reverses the order of good, wholesome cookery, in beginning with a slow and finishing with a high temperature. Meats cooked in this manner have never the delicate flavor of the roast, nor are they so easily digested.

Boiling is one of the easiest and simplest methods of cooking, but in its practice certain conditions must be carefully observed. The fire must be attended to, so as to properly regulate the heat. The utensils used for this purpose, which should be large enough to contain sufficient water to completely cover the meat, should be scrupulously clean, and provided with a close-fitting cover. All scum should be removed as fast as it rises, which will be facilitated by frequent additions of small quantities of cold water. Difference of opinion exists among cooks as to the propriety of putting meats in cold water, and gradually raising to the boiling point, or plunging into water already boiling. My own experience, unless in the preparation of soups, is decidedly in favor of the latter. Baron Liebig, the highest authority in such matters, decidedly favors this process. As in the case of roasting, the application of boiling water coagulates the albumen, thus retaining the juices of the meat that would be dissolved in the liquid.

Stewing is generally resorted to in the preparation of made dishes, and almost every variety of meats are adapted to this method. The better the quality of the meats, as a matter of course, the better the dish prepared in this way; but, by careful stewing, the coarser and rougher quality of meats can be rendered soft, tender and digestible, a desirable object not generally attained in other modes. Add pieces of meat, trimmings, scraps and bones, the latter containing a large amount of palatable and nourishing gelatine, may be thus utilized in the preparation of wholesome and appetizing dishes at a comparatively trifling cost.

An Explanatory Word in Conclusion.

As a matter of strict justice to all parties concerned, the author of this work deems it proper to explain his reasons for mentioning in the body of some of the recipes given in this book, the places at which the purest and best articles used are to be purchased. This recommendation is, in every instance, based upon a thorough and complete personal test of every article commended. In these degenerate days of wholesale adulteration of almost every article of food and drink, it is eminently just and proper that the public should be advised where the genuine is to be procured. Without desiring to convert his book into a mere advertising medium, the author deems it not out of place to give the names of those dealers in this city of whom such articles as are essential in the preparation of many of the recipes given in these pages may be procured--of the most reliable quality, and at reasonable rates.

INDEX.

Soups.

Stock 1

General Directions for making Soup 2

Calf's-Head Soup 3

Ox-Tail Soup 3

Okra Soup 3

Chicken Gumbo 4

Fresh Oyster Soup 4

Fish Chowder 5

Clam Soup 5

Clam Chowder 6

Bean Soup 6

Dry Split-Pea Soup 6

Tomato Soup 7

Celery Soup 7

Pepper-Pot 8

Egg-Balls for Soup 8

Nudels 8

Fish.

Boiled Fish 9

Fried Fish 10

Broiling Fish 10

Fried Oysters 10

Oysters in Batter 10

Oyster Patties 11

Stewed Lobsters or Crabs 11

Roast, Boiled, Baked, Broiled and Fried.

Retaining the Juices in Cooking Meats 12

Roast Pig 13

To Roast Turkeys and Chickens 13

Roasting Beef 15

A good way to Roast a Leg of Mutton 15

Clayton's Mode of Cooking Canvas-Back Ducks 15

Clayton's Mode of Cooking California Quail or Young Chickens 16

To Cook Boned Turkey 17

To Bone a Turkey 18

To Cook Ducks or Chickens, Louisiana Style 18

Breast of Lamb and Chicken, Breaded 19

Scrapple or Haggis Loaf 19

Pig's-Feet and Hocks 20

To Cook a Steak California Style, 1849-50 21

A Good Way to Cook a Ham 21

Beefsteak Broiled 21

Beefsteak with Onions 22

Corned-Beef and how to Cook it 22

Spiced Veal 22

Calves' Liver with Bacon 23

Calves' or Lambs' Liver Fried 23

Spiced Beef 23

Stews, Salads, and Salad-Dressing.

Terrapin Stew 24

Stewed Chicken Cottage Style 25

Stewed Tripe 25

Chicken-Salad 25

Clayton's Celebrated California Salad Dressing 26

Salad Flavoring 27

Eggs and Omelettes.

Boiling Eggs 27

Scrambled Eggs 27

To Fry Eggs 28

Oyster Omelette 28

Ham Omelette 28

Cream Omelette 28

Spanish Omelette 29

Omelette for Dessert 29

Vegetables.

Beans, Baked [See Bean Soup] 6

Baked Tomatoes 30

Raw Tomatoes 30

Cucumbers 30

Boiled Cabbage 30

To Cook Cauliflower 31

To Cook Young Green Peas 31

A Good Way to Cook Beets 31

Mashed Potatoes and Turnips 32

Boiled Onions 32

Stewed Corn 32

Stewed Corn and Tomatoes 32

Succotash 33

Saratoga Fried Potatoes 33

Salsify or Oyster-Plant 34

Egg-Plant 34

To Boil Green Corn 35

Boiled Rice 35

Stewed Okra 35

Bread, Cakes, Pies, Puddings and Pastry. Solid and Liquid Sauce.

Quick Bread 36

Quick Muffins 36

Brown Bread 36

Graham Rolls 36

Mississippi Corn-Bread 37

Nice Light Biscuit 37

Clayton's Corn-Bread 37

Johnny Cake 37

Sweet Potato Pone 38

Ginger Bread 38

Molasses Ginger Bread 38

Quaker Cake 38

Pound Cake 38

Chocolate Cake.--Jelly Cake 38

Currant Cake 39

Cream Cup-Cake 39

Jumbles 39

Sweet Cake 39

Sponge Cake 40

Ginger Snaps 40

A Nice Cake 40

Icing for Cake 40

Chocolate Icing 41

Lemon Pie 41

English Plum Pudding 42

Baked Apple Pudding 42

Bread Pudding 42

Baked Corn-Meal Pudding 42

Corn-Starch Pudding 43

Delmonico's Pudding 43

Peach Ice-Cream 43

Apple Snow 44

Strawberry Sauce 44

Farina Pudding 44

Snow Pudding 45

Fruit Pudding 45

Charlotte-a-Russe 46

Solid Sauce 46

Liquid Sauce 46

Currant or Grape Jelly 46

Calf's Foot Jelly 47

Ice Cream 47

Orange Ice 48

Lemon Jelly 48

Wine Jelly 48

Peach Jelly 48

Roman Punch 49

Miscellaneous.

Butter and Butter-Making 49

A Word of Advice to Hotel and Restaurant Cooks 51

Clayton's California Golden Coffee 53

The very Best Way to Make Chocolate 54

Old Virginia Egg-Nogg 55

Clayton's Popular Sandwich Paste 55

Welsh Rabbit 56

Delicate Waffles 57

Force-Meat Balls 57

Beef Tea 57

Crab Sandwich 58

Pork.--The kind to Select, and the best Mode of Curing 58

Lard, Home-Made 59

Sausage, New Jersey 60

Pot-Pie 60

Curried Crab 61

To Toast Bread 61

Cream Toast 61

Fritters 61

Hash 62

Hashed Potato with Eggs 62

Macaroni, Baked 62

Drawn Butter 63

Spiced Currants 63

Canning Fruits.--Best Mode of 63

Quinces, Preparing for Canning or Preserving 64

Clayton's Monmouth Sauce 65

Mustard.--To Prepare for the Table 65

Mint Sauce 65

Eggs ought never be Poached 66

Sunny-Side Roast 66

Clayton's Spanish Omelette 66

Plain Omelette 67

Clam Fritters 67

Fried Tripe 67

Ringed Potatoes 67

New Potatoes, Boiled 67

Fried Tomatoes 68

Squash and Corn.--Spanish Style 68

Pickles 68

Nice Picklette 69

Pickled Tripe 69

To Cook Grouse or Prairie Chicken 69

Brains and Sweet-Bread 70

Stewed Spare-Ribs of Pork 70

Broiled Oysters 71

Pumpkin or Squash Custard 71

Fig Pudding 71

Fried Apples 72

Clayton's Oyster Stew 72

Boiled Celery 72

Selecting Meats 72

Rice Pudding.--Rebecca Jackson's 73

Bread and Butter Pudding 73

Codfish Cakes 73

Pickled Grapes 74

Forced Tomatoes 74

Broiled Flounders or Smelts 74

Onions 75

Singeing Fowls 75

Taste and Flavor.--Secret Tests of 75

Ware for Ranges.--How to Choose 76

Herbs.--Drying for Seasoning 76

Roaches, Flies and Ants.--How to Destroy 76

Tinware.--To Clean 77

Iron Rust 77

Mildew 77

Oysters Roasted on Chafing-Dish 77

Cod-Fish, Family Style 77

Cod-Fish, Philadelphia Style 78

Advertisements.

Jersey Farm Dairy 81

W. T. Coleman & Co., Royal Baking Powder 82

Quade & Straut, Choice Family Groceries 83

J. H. McMenomy, Beef, Mutton, Veal 83

Arpad Haraszthy & Co., California Wines and Brandies 84

Will & Finck, Cutlers 85

Wilton & Cortelyou, Dairy Produce 86

John Bayle, Tripe, Calves' Heads, Feet 87

Palace Hotel, John Sedgwick, Manager 88

Deming Bros., Millers and Grain Dealers 89

E. R. Durkee & Co's Standard Aids to Good Cooking 90

Berlin & Lepori, Coffee, Tea and Spices 91