Part 3

It is a beautiful sight to see the sun setting from this place: it shines upon the great dome of St. Paul’s, in all its glory, and makes it look as if it were made of gold. The watermen are always waiting about the bridges, and keep a brisk cry of Boat! boat, who wants a boat? Oars, Sir! sculler, Sir!

49. Temple Bar.

[Picture: Temple Bar]

Temple Bar is a noble gateway of stone, with a large arch in the centre for carriages, and a covered path on each side for foot-passengers. It is now the only gate standing, except St. John’s Gate, Smithfield, out of the many formerly used at the several principal entries into the city. On some public occasions, as, when the king or any of the royal family come into the city, or on a proclamation of peace, this gate is shut and opened with great formality. On the latter occasion, the gates of Temple Bar are shut, to show that the jurisdiction of the city is under the Lord Mayor. The knight-marshal, with his officers, having reached this barrier of city authority, the trumpets are sounded thrice; and the junior officer of arms riding up to the gate, knocks with a cane. The city marshal within demands, “Who comes there?” The herald replies, “The officers of arms, who ask entrance into the city, to publish his majesty’s proclamation of peace.” On this the gates are opened, and he alone is admitted; when, being conducted to the Lord Mayor, he shows the royal warrant, which his lordship having read and returned, he orders the city marshal to open the gates. This being done, the heralds resume their places; and the procession, joined by the city magistrates, proceeds to the Royal Exchange, where the proclamation is read.

The very great improvements already made from Temple Bar towards St. James’s, have cost so considerable a sum of money, that the destruction of this gate, or bar, has been delayed much longer than was expected. The upper part of it was used of late years as an office for publishing the Star newspaper.

Shortly after the rebellion of 1745, the heads of three rebel noblemen were fixed on three poles, on the top of the gate, where they remained till they decayed, or were blown down by a high wind.

50. The Paviors.

[Picture: The Paviors]

When we see a rope, with a wisp of straw tied to it, across the street, no carriage should attempt to pass, for that is the pavior’s signal that the road is stopped, by their being at work on the stones. And hard work it seems to be, to use the heavy rammer.

“Does not each walker know the warning sign, When wisps of straw depend upon the twine Cross the close street, that then the pavior’s art Renews the way, denied to coach or cart? For thee the sturdy pavior thumps the ground, Whilst every stroke his labouring lungs resound.”

The stones for paving London are mostly brought from the quarries of Scotland, by ships; and very few towns or cities in Europe are better paved than the City of London. Indeed, every year seems to add improvements, for the health and comfort of the inhabitants.

The country farmer, who has been used to nothing but ploughed fields, and uneven, rutted lanes, or, at best, to the rough gravel of a cross-country road, would be surprised to see the streets of London paved as neatly as Farmer Furrowdale’s kitchen, and the lamps lighted as regularly every evening, as that in the great hall at the ’squires. And now, by the introduction of gas, the principal streets are very brilliantly illuminated, without the aid of tallow, oil, or cotton.

51. Westminster Abbey.

[Picture: Westminster Abbey]

There seems to be one more great person removed from this life, and going in a hearse with six horses, to his last home. Westminster Abbey is a fine Gothic pile, and was founded by _Sebert_, king of the East Saxons, but at what time is uncertain. In this place the kings and queens of England have been crowned, ever since the days of Pope Nicholas the Second, who appointed it for their inauguration. The coronation chairs are kept here, and the seat of the most ancient one is the stone on which the kings of Scotland used to be crowned, brought to Westminster by Edward the First.

The great number of monuments, and other curiosities of this venerable building, with the variety of pavements and chapels, are well worthy of a visit from every enquiring stranger; but the insertion of a full description here, would be more than can be expected.

52. The Tombs.

[Picture: The Tombs]

There is a Westminster scholar, and he appears to be explaining the particulars of some Latin inscription, to his mother and sister, who have called to see him. Methinks I hear the lady say, “See, my dear children, what the richest and greatest come to at last. Rich and poor, high and low, must all be laid in the grave; and though this noble monument appears very grand to the living, it makes no difference to ‘the poor inhabitant below,’ whether he lies beneath a beautiful pile of white marble, or has only a few green osiers bound over his grave.”

53. Westminster Bridge

[Picture: Westminster Bridge]

Is admired both for the grandeur and simplicity which are united in its several parts. Henry, Earl of Pembroke, promoted the erection of this bridge, and laid the first stone, in the beginning of the year 1739. It has thirteen arches, exclusive of a very small one at each end. The foundation is laid on a solid bed of gravel, and the piers are solid blocks of Portland stone, uniting strength with neatness. It was eight years and three quarters in completing, and cost £389,500 being more than double the cost of Blackfriars’. Westminster Bridge was opened for carriages about midnight, by a procession of gentlemen, the chief artificers, and a multitude of spectators. The architect was not a native of this country: his name was Labelye.

Not far from the bridge, in old Palace Yard, stands Westminster Hall.

54. Westminster Hall

[Picture: Westminster Hall]

Is thought to be the largest room in Europe unsupported by pillars, being two hundred and seventy feet in length, and seventy-four in breadth. The roof is of curious workmanship in oak, and reminds the beholders of a grove of trees, whose top branches extend toward each other till they unite. A great feast was held in this vast apartment, and other rooms of the palace, in the days of King Richard the Second, who is said to have entertained ten thousand guests, with his usual hospitality.

This hall was the court of justice in which the sovereign presided in person. Hence the Court of King’s Bench took its name. Charles the First was tried here, and condemned to suffer death by his own subjects. The trial of peers, or of any person impeached by the Commons, has been usually held here; and the coronation feasts have been celebrated therein for many ages.

The ground on which the hall stands is so near to the water, that on several high tides the Thames has overflowed the hall, the courts of justice have been broken up prematurely, and the people conveyed away in boats.

55. The Lamplighter.

[Picture: The Lamplighter]

Perhaps the streets of no city in the world are so well lighted as those of London, there being lamps on each side of the way, but a few yards distant from each other. It is said that a foreign ambassador happening to enter London in the evening, after the lamps were lighted, was so struck with the brilliancy of the scene, that he imagined the streets had been illuminated expressly in honour of his arrival. What would he have thought, had he passed through the lustre which is shed at present by the gas lights, from so many of our shops, and from the lamps in the streets? The Lamplighters are a useful set of men; and they are liable to many accidents while engaged in their dangerous occupation. In the winter, the foot-pavement is frequently so slippery, that they often fall and are maimed, by the ladder’s sliding from under them; or sometimes a careless passenger runs against the ladder and throws them down. But one of their greatest difficulties is a high wind. In October, 1812, a poor man, named Burke, who had been many years in that employment, as he was lighting the lamps on the east side of Blackfriars’ Bridge, was, by a sudden gust of wind, blown into the river, in presence of his son, a child of ten years old, and before assistance could be procured, he sunk to rise no more.

56. The Watchman.

[Picture: The Watchman]

This man has a comfortable great coat, a lantern, and a rattle, with a large stick to attack thieves. I suppose my readers would think it very wrong of him to sleep, and suffer thieves to do as they please; and so it would. But I hope no one will blame the watchman, and do as bad himself; for I have known some little folks, who have had books and teachers, and good advice also, that have not made use of any of them. Indeed, sometimes when their teachers were looking at them, they would appear to be very busy and attentive for a little while; but when no one watched them, they would do as little as a watchman when he takes a nap.

57. The Link-boy.

[Picture: The Link-boy]

The Link-boys are often on the watch, with their large torches, at dark crossings and lanes, to light passengers through them. They deserve the reward of a few halfpence, from those whom they assist.

58. The Sedan Chair.

[Picture: The Sedan Chair]

This mode of riding is now but seldom seen, though formerly it was frequently in use. Now, Sedan Chairs are used only by the sick and weakly, or by the nobility and others, who attend at the levees at court. As for us poor authors, we must adopt the plan of riding when we must, and walking while we can.

59. The Milkmaid.

[Picture: The milkmaid]

If any of my little readers wish to be as healthy and merry as Betty the milkmaid, they must work hard, and rise early in the morning, instead of lying in bed while every body else is about his business, and idling their time till they go to bed again. Betty is obliged to get up as soon as it is light, and then takes a walk into the fields to fetch her cows. When she has milked their full udders into her clean pails, she sets off again, and carries it from door to door, time enough for her customers to have it for breakfast. As every one knows the business of a milkmaid, I shall say no more about it; but advise those to remember her example, who wish to make themselves happy or useful.

60. The Sailors and Ship.

[Picture: The Sailors and Ship]

Tom Hazard was an unthinking boy, and would not settle to any business at home, and so ventured one day in a frolic to go on the water with a party of young folks; and, as Tom staid out late at night, he was met on coming ashore by a press-gang, who took him on board a man-of-war, from which, after some time, he made his escape, and entered on board the _Desperate_ Privateer, hazarding his life for a golden chain, or a broken limb. And now, poor fellow, when it is too late, he sorely laments his situation, for, having lost a leg, he wanders with some of his companions, and joins in their mournful ditty.

We poor sailors, lame and blind, Now your charity would sue; Treat us not with words unkind, But a spark of pity shew.

Where the stormy billows roar, Many a year we plough’d the main: Far, to east or western shore, Luxuries for you to gain.

Far from friends and houses warm, (Comforts such as you can boast,) We have braved the howling storm, Shipwreck’d on a desert coast.

Many a hardship have we known; Round and round the world we’ve past; Now, our limbs and eye-sight gone, Come to beggary at last!

61. The Admiralty Office.

[Picture: The Admiralty Office]

This is in that part of the street between Charing Cross and Parliament Street which is called White Hall, Westminster, having capacious apartments for the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, who direct the affairs of the navy. The telegraph receives information, and gives instructions, in fair weather, to the various commanders of ships at the different sea-ports. This invention was first practised with success in France, and is admirably contrived to convey intelligence in a very expeditious manner.

62. The Sailing Match.

[Picture: The Sailing Match]

Take care, my lads, not to crowd too much sail, or the boat may upset! There they go! from Blackfriars’ Bridge, through Westminster Bridge, to Vauxhall, and back again. What a number of boats there are on the water! Let us hope no lives will be lost, for it seems rather dangerous to be near such fast-sailing boats in a loaded wherry; and, as it is much the safest to be on shore, we would recommend every little boy or girl to keep off the water at such times.

63. The drowned Boy.

[Picture: The downed boy]

Ah, silly lad! he would go out of his depth, though he knew he was not a skilful swimmer; and see what has been the consequence! He was seized with the cramp, when he had been a few minutes in the water, and began to sink directly. His brave companion jumped in after him, at the risk of his own life, and has brought him back, quite senseless, to the boat. How distressed his poor brother looks! and how anxious to see whether there is any life left in him.

There is a society in London, of which Dr. Hawes and Dr. Lettsom were the founders, for the purpose of recommending the best means to be used for recovering drowned persons. It is called the Humane Society. They have houses placed at proper distances by the river-side, where assistance may be had instantly; and every possible means are tried for many hours, before they give any one quite over. Numbers have been restored to life by this benevolent institution; and there is a sermon preached once a year, before the Society, when many who have been brought to life by this means are present: it is a very affecting spectacle.

Let us hope they will take this poor boy to one of these places, and perhaps he may yet be restored to his family.

64. The General Post-office,

[Picture: The General Post-office]

In St. Martin’s le Grand. The front of this fine building is 380 feet long, and is ornamented with three Ionic porticos. The post-office is one of the most busy spots in London, and is the most perfect system of commercial convenience which has ever been formed under any government. It receives letters from all parts of our own country, as well as from every civilized nation in the world, and forwards them to their destination with the utmost regularity.

In front of the central portico, I see, there is one of the mail-coaches for the conveyance of letters. These coaches travel at the rate of eight miles an hour, including stoppages: they carry also passengers and parcels.

65. Southwark Bridge.

[Picture: Southwark Bridge]

This grand fabric was constructed of cast-iron, under the direction of John Rennie, Esq. It consists of three immense arches. The centre arch spans 240 feet, and the two others 210 feet each. The weight of iron is more than 5308 tons. The abutments are of stone. The bridge forms a communication from the bottom of Queen Street, to Bankside, Southwark. It was begun in September, 1814, and was completed, and opened for public use, in March, 1819. The entire expense incurred by the building of this bridge was £80,000.

66. Waterloo Bridge

[Picture: Waterloo Bridge]

Is built of a very hard kind of stone called granite. This bridge was commenced in 1811, and completed in 1817. The road-way of the bridge is level, which is very favourable to the draught of carriages. It has nine fine arches, 120 feet span. The piers are twenty feet thick, ornamented with Tuscan columns. This building was constructed under the superintendence of the late John Rennie, Esq. The opening of this bridge to the public was conducted with unusual grandeur, on the 18th of June, 1817; being the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, his late Majesty, then Prince Regent, and the Duke of Wellington, with grand military cavalcade, attending.

Near the foot of Waterloo Bridge, in the Strand, stands

67. The Royal Academy, Somerset House.

[Picture: The Royal Academy]

This academy of fine arts was established by royal charter in 1768. The academy consists of forty academicians, twenty associates, and six associate engravers. Sir Joshua Reynolds was the first president. They make a grand annual exhibition of paintings, sculptures, &c. which commences in May, and generally continues open about six weeks.

68. Covent Garden.

[Picture: Covent Garden]

Now we have a view of Covent Garden Market, where plants, fruit, and flowers of every kind, are brought for sale from the country. By four o’clock in a summer’s morning, it is completely full of the most rare and beautiful plants that can be grown in England, either in open nurseries, or in the hot-house and green-house: and, what with the number of busy people buying and selling; the carts going to and fro, laden with flowers, fruit, and vegetables of all sorts; the beauty and gaiety of the different plants, and the sweetness of their odours, it is altogether a most delightful scene. The Londoners cannot take a country walk whenever they please, and enjoy the green fields and wild hedge-flowers, in the open air; but they may supply themselves here with every kind of beautiful plants, for a garden within doors; and to those who have a little knowledge of botany, it must be not only an entertaining, but even a useful amusement.

69. The British Museum

[Picture: The British Museum]

Was formerly the residence of the Dukes of Montague: it is now the national museum for every kind of curiosity. Indeed, they are so various, both natural and artificial, that it would require a very large book to give even a very short account of them. Here are such a multitude of animals of all kinds, birds, beasts, fishes, shells, butterflies, insects, books both ancient and modern, precious stones, medals, &c. that, in fact, the only way to form an idea of them, is to see them.

70. Charing Cross.

[Picture: Charing Cross]

Here, upon his brazen horse, Sits Charles the First at Charing Cross.

This spot was formerly known as a village named _Charing_, near London, in which King Edward the First placed a magnificent cross, in memory of his beloved queen Eleanor, {65} which cross was destroyed by the fury of the reformers, who regarded it as an object of superstition. _Le Sueur_, a French artist, cast a fine statue in brass, of Charles the First on horseback, which was erected in place of the cross. When Cromwell ruled, this statue was sold to one _Revet_, a brazier, on condition of his melting it, as the parliament had ordered that it should be destroyed. Revet made a fortune by this statue, casting a vast number of articles in bronze, as if made out of his purchase, which were eagerly bought by those desirous of having a memorial of their prince; and by others, from the pleasure of mean triumph over fallen royalty. Revet, however, had not destroyed the statue, but kept it buried in the earth; and Charles the Second, on his restoration, caused it to be erected again.

71. Carleton House,

[Picture: Carleton House]

Which has been pulled down since our plate was engraved, was a very grand palace. It stood in Pall Mall, exactly opposite Waterloo Place. This was the town-residence of his late Majesty: it was furnished with the most elegant and splendid taste, and was said to be the most beautiful in its decorations of any royal residence in Europe.

72. The Quadrant, Regent Street.

[Picture: The Quadrant, Regent Street]

This is one of the most beautiful of the new improvements at the west end of the town, and is thought to be the most singular and magnificent line of streets in the world. At the entrance of the Quadrant stands the County Fire Office. The Building is surmounted by a colossal statue of Britannia, behind which is an observatory, which affords a view over London and the surrounding villages; the purpose of which is, that, on an alarm of fire, the managing director may ascertain the position in which it lies, and send the engines, which are kept at the back of the building.

73. The Funeral.

[Picture: The funeral]

The kind and loving mother of those two children is dead, and going to the grave! It is too late now to be dutiful to her, for she cannot open her eyes to look at you, they are shut for ever; it is too late to do as she bid you, for her lips are closed, and she cannot speak: it is too late to wait upon her now, for she no longer requires your assistance! O, little girl and little boy, if your dear mamma be still alive, be very kind and dutiful to her before this sorrowful day comes; or else it will be too late to do any thing for _her_, but cry very bitterly over her grave.

74. The Charity Children.

[Picture: The Charity Children]

These charity children are coming from church, with the two parish-beadles before them. Several thousands of poor children are taught to read, work, and write, in the different charity-schools of London, and to do their duty to God and to their neighbours; which will enable them to become respectable in this world, and tend to make them happy in the next.

Once a year, about six thousand charity children, dressed in uniforms of different colours, assemble in St. Paul’s Cathedral, on benches raised to a great height one above the other, circularly, under the dome. The order with which each school finds its own situation, and the union of so many voices, all raised at one moment to the praise of their great Creator, as they chant the hundredth psalm on the entrance of the clergyman, cause a most delightful and affecting sensation in the minds of the spectators. The solemnity of the place, and the hope that so much innocence, under such protection, would be reared to virtue and happiness, must add greatly to the effect.

This uncommon scene is well described in the following lines.

’Twas in the pleasant month of June, their hands and faces clean, The children walking two and two, in red, and blue, and green; Grey-headed beadles walked before, with wands as white as snow, Till into the high dome of St. Paul’s, they, like Thames’ waters, flow. Oh! what a multitude they seem’d, these flowers of London town! Seated in companies they sit, with radiance all their own!

The hum of multitudes was there, but multitudes of lambs; Thousands of little boys and girls, raising their innocent hands; Now like a mighty wind they raise to heaven the voice of song, Or like harmonious thunderings, the seats of heav’n among. Beneath them sit the aged men, wise guardians of the poor: Then cherish pity, lest you drive an angel from your door.

75. Highgate Tunnel.

[Picture: Highgate Tunnel]

This grand excavation was made in 1821, through the eastern side of Highgate-hill, for the purpose of easing the draught of horses in passing in this direction. There is also a grand archway across, over the Tunnel, which connects Highgate with Hornsey.

76. Watering the Streets.

[Picture: Watering the streets]

London streets, in dry weather, are very dusty; this, when the wind blows briskly, annoys not only the eyes of those who walk, and of those who ride, but spoils the look of many a joint of meat. Pastry-cooks’ and many other shops are much hurt by the dust; so that, at an early hour in the morning, many streets are watered by means of a scoop, and water pent up in the kennels, on each side of the carriageway.

77. Little Boy at the Crossing.

[Picture: Little boy at the crossing]

That’s right, sweep away there, my good little man, And earn a few halfpence, whenever you can.