City Scenes; or, a peep into London
Part 2
’Tis the honest truth I tell, These were gather’d fresh to-day; I have cause to know it well, By the long and weary way. On my arm, so tann’d and brown, So my little basket hung; As I travell’d back to town, With my water-cresses young.
Hardly was a little bird Stirring as I went along; Not a waggon-wheel I heard, Nor the ploughman’s cheery song. Still upon the waters grey, Mists of early morning hung; Buy then, lady fair, I pray, Buy my water-cresses young.
21. The Brewer’s Dray.
[Picture: The Brewer’s Dray]
Here travels the brewer along with his dray, And the horse seems as if he had something to say; Now (tho’ between friends I am forced to confess That I cannot quite _hear_ him) I think I can guess: “Good master,” perhaps, “do not give such a smack; For even a dray-horse can feel on his back; And surely ’tis fair that my labour should earn, At least civil treatment from you in return.”
22. The Twopenny-post Boy.
[Picture: The Twopenny-post Boy]
This is a most welcome lad to many a tradesman, when he brings good orders, with a Banknote, or bill to be regularly paid: also to every parent, child, or friend, who wishes to hear of the welfare of parties that live at a distance.
Quoth I to the Postman, good master, your nag, By this time is tired by the weight of your bag; You’ve set off from your office, and rode without stopping, Till your poor panting steed is in danger of dropping. Now, said he, if these letters were weigh’d by their sense, ’Twere a chance if they rose o’er a couple of pence; And if that could be managed, my beast would not mind, If I carried them with me, or left them behind.
23. The Dancing Bear and Dogs.
[Picture: The Dancing Bear and Dogs]
I wish the bear had remained in Russia or Poland, rather than, after being brought from his native woods, to be thus tormented; for who can tell what misery he underwent in learning to move at the command of his keeper. And as for the poor dogs, they must be very tired before their day’s work is ended. I would rather find employment for the men, than give them money for punishing poor animals as they do!
24. The Camel and Monkey.
[Picture: The Camel and Monkey]
What a wonderful place is this said London! Here are not only bears from the cold regions of Russia, Poland, and America, but also a camel from the hot sands of Arabia or the East Indies, walking in the streets! Behold the playful monkey on its head, and numbers of fearless boys upon its back. In Turkey, Arabia, and Persia, the camel is a most useful creature, carrying very great weights of spices and merchandise, for a considerable number of miles, and for several days together, without any kind of sustenance. They are said to have a particular property, in scenting out places in the sand where water is to be found.
The milk of this animal is very nutritive, and, mixed with water, forms the principle beverage of the Arabians. The flesh supplies them with food: that of the young is reckoned a delicacy.
The camel feeds entirely on vegetables. Not only pencils and brushes for painters, but some very neat and fine garments have been made with its hair.
In Arabian deserts bare, I have toil’d with patient care, While upon my crooked back Hung the merchant’s precious pack, Full of spices and of gold, In the markets to be sold: But it was my native clime, And I liked it all the time.
Now a poor and weary hack, With a monkey on my back, Taught by many a knock and bruise, I the gaping crowd amuse, Through your city as I go, Tired and dismal, for a show: Oh! that I could see again My native, sandy, barren plain!
25. The Royal Exchange.
[Picture: The Royal Exchange]
Here merchants meet from all parts of the world. The traffic on the seas being very great, to and from every nation, in time of peace, it must afford great convenience to the ship-owners, ship-captains, and traders, to have one spot where they can meet to transact their business. Sir Thomas Gresham, a merchant, laid the foundation in 1566, and Queen Elizabeth was so pleased with the building, that she dignified it with the title of _Royal Exchange_, by sound of trumpet.
The inside of the Exchange affords a busy scene: Englishmen, Dutchmen, Frenchmen, Spaniards, Russians, Turks, Americans, and Jews. How intent every one appears to be on business, and what a general buzz and din we hear: yet the figure of one individual stands very silently in the midst of all, I mean the statue of Charles the Second, on a pedestal. In a few years, every one of these active merchants will be as motionless as this marble statue. It may be of service to the busy Englishman, sprightly Frenchman, lazy Spaniard, plodding-Dutchman, rough Russian, proud Turk, and rich Jew, to reflect on this; and to endeavour, with all their gettings, to get understanding.
26. The Fire-engine.
[Picture: The Fire-engine]
We know of no place better supplied with engines for putting out fire, than London; and though fires are very frequent, they seldom do so much damage as formerly, when houses were built of wood, or without party-walls.
An engine is a very clever contrivance: the pipes convey the water over the tops of the houses; and if an engine arrives in time, it frequently prevents the flames from spreading further. {29}
27. Drawing Goods in a Truck.
[Picture: Drawing Goods in a Truck]
Well done, my good boy! and well done, my good dog! Why the dog works as hard as the boy, and seems to do it with quite as much ease.
In drawing that truck, boy, you now feel a part Of what ev’ry horse feels, when drawing a cart.
Come, my lad, haste away, to make room for a fine coach, full of gay people, coming to the East India House.
28. The East India House.
The East India Company is one of the most powerful and wealthy associations in Europe; and their house in Leadenhall Street is a very elegant building. The Company was originally formed by Queen Elizabeth, in 1600, principally for the purpose of procuring spices at a cheap rate, which were advanced in price by the Dutch. From traders they became conquerors of the natives, and having obtained a footing in the country, usurped the sovereignty over considerable districts; and war, with oppression, have too often befallen the harmless natives. The India ships bring home tea, coffee, silks both raw and manufactured, cottons, muslins, calicoes, drugs, China-ware, rice, sago, saltpetre, pepper, indigo, &c &c.
29. London Stone.
[Picture: London Stone]
This is to be seen in Cannon Street, against the wall of St. Swithin’s church, where it has long been preserved. It is now cased with stone-work, and guarded by an iron bar and spikes, but still remains open to view. It has been supposed to be a standard, from which the Romans, when in England, computed their miles. Proclamations were formerly delivered from this stone to the people.
30. Guildhall.
[Picture: The Guildhall]
This is the place where the public business of the corporation of London is transacted; and where the judges sit to hear and determine causes. In this hall the Court of Aldermen and Common Council have a very handsome chamber, or court-room, which is ornamented with a capital collection of paintings, presented to the City of London by the late worthy Alderman Boydell, who greatly promoted the arts. The fine painting by Mr. Copley, representing the siege of Gibraltar by the Spanish flotilla, and likewise an elegant marble statue of George III. our late venerable monarch, are well worth seeing by every admirer of the arts of painting and statuary.
Nearly opposite to the entrance of this fine building, and on each side of the clock, formerly stood two gigantic statues, commonly called Gog and Magog, supposed to be the figures of a Briton and a Saxon; but they are now removed to the west end of the hall, as they are seen in the picture, No. 31.
Two modern painted windows complete the decorations of this venerable building; the one representing the royal arms, the other those of the city of London.
32. The Mansion House,
[Picture: The Mansion House]
Well, here are the Lord Mayor’s coach and six horses, standing opposite the Mansion House, which is the place of residence for every chief magistrate during his mayoralty. It is a stone building of magnificence, but appears the more heavy and gloomy from its confined situation.
33. The Bank of England.
[Picture: The Bank of England]
Not far from the Mansion House stands the Bank of England. This building fills a space enclosed by the four streets, Bartholomew Lane, Lothbury, Prince’s Street, and Bank Buildings. It is truly interesting to behold the busy scene that daily passes in the rotunda, amongst the buyers and sellers of stock, or those who are engaged in transferring it, all so eagerly occupied with their affairs, and showing their anxiety by their countenances. Where money is, there the crowd will be; and persons who go to the Bank should be careful lest their pockets be picked of such money as they may have received.
34. St. Paul’s Cathedral.
[Picture: St. Paul’s Cathedral]
This is a wonderfully fine building! and the countryman’s amazement on first seeing it, is very naturally expressed in the following lines:
Of all the brave churches I ever did see, Sure this seems the greatest and grandest to me! What a wonderful place! I am full of surprise, And hardly know how to believe my own eyes. Why sure that gold cross at the top is so high, That it must, now and then, prick a hole in the sky; And, for my part, I should not be much in amaze, If the moon should run foul of it, one of these days.
It is not only the outside of this fine building that commands attention, but the inside also. The whispering gallery, the great bell, the library, and so many other curiosities are to be seen, that even to name the whole would require more space than we can afford in our little work.
A young country gentleman, who was never before on any thing higher than a haystack, has now reached the top of St. Paul’s, and is admiring the prospect from the iron gallery.
Well, certainly, this is a wonderful sight; And pays one for climbing up here such a height. Dear, what a large city! and full, in all parts, Of churches and houses, of horses and carts. What hundreds of coaches, and thousands of folk! And then, _above all_, what a very thick smoke! I could stand here all _day_ to behold this fine town; Tho’, as night’s coming on, I had better go down.
I think so too, young gentleman: and mind how you go along the dark staircase, for it would be a sad thing to fall down among that frightful scaffolding. Walk gently, and lay hold of the rail as you go along, and you will be safe enough.
35. The Blue-coat School, called Christ’s Hospital.
[Picture: The Blue-coat School]
There are nearly one thousand children educated here at a time. The boys continue to wear the dress worn in the days of the virtuous and youthful prince, Edward the Sixth, who founded this school for orphans and other poor children.
Their singular dress consists of a coat of blue cloth, formed something similar to a woman’s gown; and in winter they wear a yellow woollen petticoat. Their stockings are of yellow worsted, and round their waist they buckle a red-leather girdle. They are also furnished with a round, flat woollen cap, about the size of a tea-saucer, which they generally carry under their arm. A pewter badge on their breast, and a clergyman’s band round their neck, complete their antique uniform.
36. The enraged Ox.
[Picture: The enraged Ox]
This is what might have been expected, my lad! You have been teasing and worrying that animal, till it is become quite furious, and now you must take the consequence. It was as tame and quiet as any ox in Smithfield, till you began to pull it by the tail, and beat it about the horns; and now, (as oxen do not know they ought not to be revengeful,) you cannot be surprised if it should give you a toss or two. Cruel folks are always cowardly, and it is no wonder to see you running away in such a dreadful fright.
37. The Dustman.
[Picture: The Dustman]
Bring out your dust, the dustman cries, Whilst ringing of his bell: If the wind blows, pray guard your eyes, To keep them clear and well.
A very useful set of men are these: they remove the dust and dirt from the houses in the city. It is a very profitable business; for, by sifting and sorting what is taken away, every thing becomes useful. There are frequently found cinders for firing, ashes and breeze for brickmakers: bones and old rags, tin and old iron, are carefully separated from oyster-shells and stones, which have their several purchasers.
My masters, I’m dirty, nor can I be clean; My bus’ness it would ill become, With my face and hands clean in the streets to be seen, While I carry my shovel and broom.
38. The taking of Guy Fawkes.
[Picture: The taking of Guy Fawkes]
In one of the print-shops of London may be seen a representation of the taking of Guy Fawkes, in the reign of King James the First. In the year 1605, the plot to destroy the king and parliament was discovered, owing to an anonymous letter sent to Lord Monteagle. In a cellar under the parliament-house, there were found thirty-six barrels of gunpowder; upon which were laid bars of iron, massy stones, faggots, &c. Near these Guy Fawkes was concealed, with a dark lantern and three matches. He instantly confessed his guilt; and, with Sir Everard Digby, Catesby, and several others, was executed.
39. Guy Fawkes in Effigy.
[Picture: Guy Fawkes in Effigy]
Who comes riding hither, as black as a coal, With matches and old tinder-box, And holding his lantern, a figure so droll? ’Tis nobody less than Guy Fawkes!
Every parish in England formerly used to have its _Pope_ or _Guy_ carried about by idle men and boys on the 5th of November, who usually went from house to house, begging for money to make a bonfire and a feast. In many of the villages near London, there used to be two or more parties of large boys from different parts of the parish; and it frequently happened, that when one of them thought the other had encroached, by visiting such houses for money as were deemed out of their bounds, that battles were fought between them. Many were lamed in these affrays, and the treasurer to the weakest party has often been plundered of such money as had been collected.
The people of England in general, of late years, have discouraged these processions and riots, and they have become so insignificant, as to be noticed only by children. But even in the present time, some idle people will fire guns, and throw squibs into the streets, which have caused many serious accidents; and here seems some poor creature going to
40. Bartholomew’s Hospital,
[Picture: Bartholomew’s Hospital]
Which is in West Smithfield, and where all persons accidentally injured, are admitted at any hour of the day or night, and carefully attended by skilful surgeons, and proper nurses. This hospital has long remained a monument of the piety of its founder, — Rahere, who was minstrel, or jester, to King Henry the First. Grown weary of the gay offices of his station, he reformed, founded a priory, and established this hospital for the sick and maimed. It was granted by King Henry the Eighth, on certain conditions, to the City of London, in the last year of his reign, for the same purposes as those of its original foundation. The present building was erected in the reign of George the Second, in 1730.
41. Smithfield Market
[Picture: Smithfield Market]
Is in a large, open, square place, called West Smithfield; where is held, for three days in the week, a market for hay and straw; and the other three days for horses and cattle of all kinds, which make the place very dirty and inelegant in its appearance. Various have been the purposes, at different periods, to which this place has been applied, it having been equally devoted to festive joy, and extreme misery. Here, in the days of chivalry, the court and nobility held their gallant tilts and tournaments, with a magnificent parade, characteristic of the age. On the same spot, for a series of years, have been enjoyed by the lowest vulgar, the buffoonery humours of Bartholomew Fair, which was first granted by Henry the Second, to a neighbouring priory, as a mart for selling the commodities of the drapers of London, and clothiers of England. As other channels for the disposing of drapery goods arose, this fair, from a resort of business, became a meeting of pleasure. It continues three days, to the great annoyance of real trade and decorum; and a court of _pie-powder_ is held daily, to settle the disputes of the people who frequent it. On the other hand, in ancient times, it was the common place of execution for criminals. In the centre of the place now enclosed with rails, many martyrs were burned at the stake, for their adherence to the reformed religion; and, lastly, it was the field of combat, when the guilt of the accused was attempted to be decided by duel.
There has been of late years, a show of fat cattle annually at Smithfield, and the feeders of the best kinds have been rewarded with money, or a piece of valuable plate, which has greatly contributed to encourage the improvement of various breeds of sheep and cattle.
42. St. Dunstan’s Church.
[Picture: St. Dunstan’s Church]
This is in Fleet Street, and had a very narrow escape from the great fire of 1666, which stopped within three houses of it. There are two savage figures on the outside of the clock, that strike the quarters with their clubs, with which children and strangers are much amused. Dunstan, before he was made a saint, was well skilled in many arts: he was a good engraver and worker in brass and iron. He was supposed to be the inventor of the _Eolian Harp_, whose soft notes are produced by a current of air causing the wires to vibrate. This was not comprehended by the vulgar; so, from being wiser than his neighbours, he was deemed a conjuror by them.
43. The Postman and Letter-Carrier.
[Picture: The Postman and Letter-Carrier]
Make haste, my good lad, or the postman may be gone. These letter-carriers begin to ring a bell about five o’clock every evening, and collect letters and newspapers in the several parts of the town, so as to be able to get to the General Post Office in time for sorting them for the mail-coaches.
The gentleman’s servant with the letter, seems to be sent from some lawyer in the Temple, as there is a view of the gardens and fountain.
44. The Temple
Is a place of residence for students of the common law, divided into two societies, called the Inner and the Middle Temple, which, with the other law-associations, are called Inns of Court. The buildings of the Temple are ample and numerous, with pleasant gardens extending to the shores of the Thames, which prove agreeable retreats to young persons who have been engaged in study.
45. The Knife-grinder.
[Picture: The Knife-grinder]
This man seems to be very busy, and it is but reasonable to suppose that he may meet with many employers amongst the students of the law, and the law-stationers, in and about the Temple: for as they use many pens, a sharp knife must be quite needful for mending them. But I think he does not confine himself to grinding knives only, but when wanting a job, he cries, “Knives to grind! Scissors to grind! Razors to grind!”
Well! who would believe it? why, that is lazy Tom, turned knife-grinder at last!
“Ay, master, and I never was so happy in my life. I thought, like a foolish old fellow, that a beggar’s life must at least be an easy one; but at last I found out, that, though I had nothing to do, I often had nothing to eat. So, one day, I thought to myself, thinks I, ‘I’ve a vast mind to bestir myself, and work for my living, for after all this idling, I don’t see that I am much of a gentleman for it.’ So I bought this grinding barrow, and began business for myself; and now I earn a comfortable living, and am as happy as the day is long:
“And so every body who tries it, will find: I wish you good morning, Sir—Scissors to grind!”
46. The Chair-mender.
[Picture: The Chair-mender]
Old chairs to mend! old chairs to mend! If I’d as much money as I could spend, I’d leave off crying, old chairs to mend!
Perhaps so, but then you might not be more healthy, useful, or happy, than at present. Exercise and sobriety contribute to health, and industry produces the means of procuring wealth sufficient to live in a comfortable manner. A chair-bottomer is a very useful man: he contributes to the ease and comfort of many of his employers; yet, one cannot help asking, Has every chair which wants a new bottom, been worn out fairly? What! have no little boys, or great girls, been standing up in them? or drawing them up and down the house and yard, to wear out the rushes?
During the war with Holland, rushes for bottoming chairs were very scarce and dear, so that the poor men in that line of business found a great difficulty to obtain materials and employment.
This man, although he appears poor, yet he occupies the highest situation in the city of London, having taken his seat in Panyer Alley, leading from Newgate Street to Paternoster Row; where a stone is placed, in the wall of one of the houses, with the following inscription in old English verse:
WHEN Y HAVE SOVGHT THE CITTY ROVND, YET STILL THS IS THE HIGHST GROVND. AVGVST THE 27, 1688.
47. The News Boy and Flying Pieman.
[Picture: The News Boy and Flying Pieman]
“Great News! Great News!” “All Hot! Smoking Hot!” These are two busy men, indeed; one cries food for the mind, and the other food for the body. Neither of these tradesmen keep long in one place. The news-boy would be very glad to have a hot plumcake, but he has not time to eat it; nor will the pieman wait to hear what the news is. So that they are not only _busy men_, but what is very different, _men of business_. They are passing by _The Obelisk_, in Fleet Street, built by the City of London, on the spot which was once the centre of Fleet Ditch, which flowed as high as Holborn Bridge, under that part which Fleet Market is now built upon.
48. Blackfriars’ Bridge.
[Picture: Blackfriars’ Bridge]
Here we have a view of Blackfriars’ Bridge, and, from the great bustle there is upon the river, there seems to be a rowing match among several watermen. This bridge is a noble structure, consisting of nine arches, the centre one being one hundred feet wide. Over each pier is a recess, with seats for passengers on the bridge, supported by two beautiful Ionic pillars, which stand on a semi-circular projection, rising above high-water mark; and the whole appears an admirable piece of workmanship, upon the water. This bridge was begun in the year 1760, from a design of Robert Mylne, Esq. the architect, and finished in about eight years, at the expence of rather more than one hundred and fifty thousand pounds.
Blackfriars’ Bridge is a very pleasant place for a walk, especially on a fine summer’s evening, when the air is still and serene, and the light pleasure-boats are gliding up and down the river with their gay companies.