CHAPTER XXV

_AT TABLE_

THE PLEASURE OF DRINKING

Wine was first manufactured in China by a functionary named I-Ti, under the reign of Emperor U (22,000 years before Christ), from fermented rice. The sovereign was the first to taste this new beverage. He found it delicious, and said, “I am sure that hereafter there will be families of kings who will lose their thrones through drinking wine.” But his prophecy was never realised in spite of his prophetic tone, and literary men continue to indulge themselves in wine to their heart’s content. There is no party without wine, and no wine-party without poetry. But by no means do we intoxicate ourselves. I remember that, some years ago, a German deputy, criticising the law against drunkenness, pronounced these words:—“If your law is passed, the people alone will suffer, for the rich, after getting drunk on champagne in their private houses, can always manage to escape the notice of the police, for, if they have to go out, they can go out in their carriages.” The law was not passed. There would be no necessity for such a law in China, because the people there never get drunk. Our custom of seeking for happiness in drinking wine dates from the time of two celebrated poems, written by Li-Tai-Pe of the dynasty of the Thang family.

“Do you not see that the water of the Yellow River seems to come down from heaven, And throws itself into the sea without ever returning to its sources? Do you not see also that the mirrors in our drawing-rooms beweep our hairs, Which, black this morning, are now already white? When one is dissatisfied pleasure takes wing; The golden jug must not stand there motionless and untouched before the moon. Heaven has given us talents to make use of— Thus the money that we spend will always return to us. Let us slay the sheep, let us roast beef for our pleasure. When we meet, we will each empty three hundred glasses. You, Master Kien, and you, Ten-Kiou—the literary man— Lift your glasses without ceasing. I wish to sing to you, and I beg you to listen to me. Long since honours have ceased to have any value; I would rather be drunk than awake. Sages and philosophers were always too sad, Whilst topers remained gay. Prince Tcheng was not fond of music; He preferred to spend ten thousand crowns to buy a measure of wine. Do not say that you have no money— Continue to supply us. Take my horse, my fur coat, and go and exchange them for good wine, For I intend to forget, in your company, the cares of eternity. The wind brings with it the blossoms of the willow, which scent the whole room; And the beautiful lady who invites us to keep on drinking her wine. The people of Nan-King are there to bid farewell to their friends, Who, having to go, have not yet gone. Ask you of the water that flows to the east, If it is deeper than is the sorrow of our separation.”

Another poet of a later date used also to give himself up to immoderate drinking. His wife advised him to moderate his passion. He asked for five jugs as the price of this sacrifice, and when he had drunk them he went to sleep. On waking, he asked for five more jugs of wine, and having emptied these, he wrote the following quatrain for his wife:—

“Heaven has created Liou-Ling, Who cannot live without wine; And as to the advice given him by his wife, He should pay no attention to it.”

Grape-wine is unknown in China, and the only allusion to it that I know of is to be found in the following lines, which were written by a warrior who lived in the north of China, under the reign of the Yang family:—

“Grape-wine gleams in the glasses at night— I should like to drink but the guitar urges me to go. Do not laugh at me if I fall asleep on the field of battle, For since ancient times how many warriors have returned from war?”

Li-Tai-Pe made an abusive use of wine. He found friends everywhere, even when he was alone, for then the moon and his shadow were his friends. But in spite of that, he knew how to associate with the pleasure of drinking the most delicate sentiments and very lofty philosophical views, as may be seen in the following poem:—

“What has become of the towers and the flags of King of Tsou which formerly were accumulated on the tops of hills now deserted? When drunkenness elevates me, I lower my paint brush, and my songs shake the five mountains. I am glad, and am proud, and I laugh at all greatness. Power, wealth, honours, before your duration shall be sufficient to merit my esteem. The Yellow River will be seen starting from the west to flow towards the north.”

Since that time a kind of drinking game has been invented. A tube, in the shape of a cylinder, is placed on the table. It contains a number of ivory rods, each of which is inscribed with an ancient verse. Each player draws one of these rods, and according to the verses on them, it is decided which player is to drink. Here are some examples:—

“Alas! Where is the handsome face to-day? (The most bearded player has to drink.) In love with a shadow or a sound. (It is the shortsighted man’s turn to empty his glass.) We see each other without hearing our voices. (The deaf man drinks.) There is still half the time left for contemplation. (The player who wears spectacles drinks.) The beaded blinds hide the faces of the roses. (The pock-marked player drinks.) He who is in love with the flowers regrets that they have no voices. (The silent man drinks.) The cries of modern ghosts mingle with the cries of ancient spectres, (The doctor drinks.)”

It will be seen that in China the pleasure of drinking does not lack in those gaieties with which wine is always accompanied.