Part 4
“The fact that in historic times, even within the memory of man, the Fall has sensibly receded, prompts the question, How far has this recession gone? At what point did the ledge which thus continually creeps backward begin its retrograde course? To minds disciplined in such researches the answer has been and will be, At the precipitous declivity which crosses the Niagara from Lewiston on the American to Queenston on the Canadian side. Over this traverse barrier the affluents of all upper lakes once poured their waters, and here the work of erosion began. The dam, moreover, was demonstrably of sufficient height to cause the river above it to submerge Goat Island, and this would perfectly account for the finding by Mr. Hall, Sir Charles Lyell, and others, in the sand and gravel of the island, the same fluviatile shells as are now found in the Niagara River higher up. It would also account for those deposits along the sides of the river, the discovery of which enabled Lyell, Hall, and Ramsay to reduce to demonstration the popular belief that the Niagara once flowed through a shallow valley.
“The physics of the problem of excavation, which I made clear to my mind before quitting Niagara, are revealed by a close inspection of the present Horseshoe Fall. Here we see evidently that the greatest weight of water bends over the very apex of the Horseshoe. In a passage in his excellent chapter on Niagara Falls, Mr. Hall alludes to this fact. Here we have the most copious and the most violent whirling of the shattered liquid; here the most powerful eddies recoil against the shale. From this portion of the Fall, indeed, the spray sometimes rises without solution of continuity to the region of clouds, becoming gradually more attenuated, and passing finally through the condition of true cloud into invisible vapor, which is sometimes re-precipitated higher up. All the phenomena point distinctly to the center of the river as the place of the greatest mechanical energy, and from the center the vigor of the Fall gradually dies away toward the sides. The horseshoe form, with the concavity facing downward, is an obvious and necessary consequence of this action. Right along the middle of the river the apex of the curve pushes its way backward, cutting along the center a deep and comparatively narrow groove, and draining the sides as it passes them. Hence the remarkable discrepancy between the widths of the Niagara above and below the Horseshoe. All along its course, from Lewiston Heights to the present position, the form of the Fall was probably that of a horseshoe; for this is merely the expression of the greater depth, and consequently greater excavating power, of the center of the river. The gorge, moreover, varies in width as the depth, of the center of the ancient river varied, being narrowest where that depth was greatest.
“The vast comparative erosive energy of the Horseshoe Fall comes strikingly into view when it and the American Fall are compared together. The American branch of the upper river is cut at a right angle by the gorge of the Niagara. Here the Horseshoe Fall was the real excavator. It cut the rock, and formed the precipice over which the American Fall tumbles. But since its formation the erosive action of the American Fall has been almost _nil_, while the Horseshoe has cut its way for five hundred yards across the end of Goat Island, and is now doubling back to excavate a channel parallel to the length of the island. This point, I have just learned, has not escaped the acute observation of Prof. Ramsay. The river bends; the Horseshoe immediately accommodates itself to the bending, and will follow implicitly the direction of the deepest water in the upper stream. The flexibility of the gorge, if I may use the term, is determined by the flexibility of the river channel above it. Were the Niagara above the Fall sinuous, the gorge would immediately follow its sinuosities. Once suggested, no doubt geographers will be able to point out many examples of this action. The Zambesi is thought to present a great difficulty to the erosion theory, because of the sinuosity of the chasm below the Victoria Falls. But assuming the basalt to be of tolerably uniform texture, had the river been examined before the formation of this sinuous channel, the present zigzag course of the gorge below the Fall could, I am persuaded, have been predicted, while the sounding of the present river would enable us to predict the course to be pursued by the erosion in the future.
“But not only has the Niagara River cut the gorge--it has carried away the chips of its own workshop. The shale being probably crumbled, is easily carried away. But at the base of the Fall we find the huge boulders already described, and by some means or other these are removed down the river. The ice which tills the gorge in winter, and which grapples with the boulders, has been regarded as the transporting agent. Probably it is so to some extent. But erosion acts without ceasing on the abutting points of the boulder, thus withdrawing their support, and urging them down the river. Solution also does its portion of the work. That solid matter is carried down is proved by the difference of depth between the Niagara River and Lake Ontario, where the river enters it. The depth falls from seventy-two feet to twenty feet, in consequence of the deposition of solid matter caused by the diminished motion of the river. Near the mouth of the gorge at Queenston, the depth, according to the Admiralty Chart, is 180 feet; well within the gorge, it is 132 feet.”
SUSPENSION BRIDGE.
Two miles below the Falls, the river is spanned by the structure so widely known by the above name. The banks are here very precipitous, and the river deep and rapid, and the erection of piers in the stream being an impossibility, the structure is suspended from cables passing over towers of solid masonry. The following statistics will be of interest to those of our readers who revel in figures:--
Length of span from center to center of towers 822 feet. Height of tower above rock on the American side 88 „ „ „ „ „ „ Canada side 78 „ „ „ „ floor of railway 60 „ „ track above water 258 „ Number of wire cables 4 Diameter of each cable 10½ in. Number of No. 9 wires in each cable 3,659 Ultimate aggregate strength of cables 12,400 tons. Weight of superstructure 800 „ „ „ and maximum loads 1,250 „ Maximum weight the cable and stays will support 7,309 „
The bridge is a “two-story” affair, the upper part being used for the railway, and the lower for carriages and foot passengers.
WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS.
The narrowing of the channel in the vicinity of the Suspension Bridge greatly accelerates the current, and the tremendous force with which it rushes through the gorge from this point to the “Whirlpool,” throws the water into violent commotion. When it is considered that the calculated weight of the water that passes over the Falls every hour is 100,000,000 tons, and that this volume of water must find its way through a channel only about 300 feet wide, the terrific force with which it rushes along may be at least partially understood. Although the depth of the stream is here estimated at 250 feet, the force of the current is such as to _elevate_ the water from ten to forty feet above its natural level.
At the Whirlpool, the river takes a sharp turn almost at a right angle, circling around in the cauldron which it seems to have excavated for itself, and finally making its exit through a narrow gorge, the vast body of water no doubt passing out far below the surface, in a channel of immense depth.
The Whirlpool may be seen to advantage from either the Canadian or the American side. At the latter, the approach is through the grounds of De Veaux College, the fee for admission going to the funds of the institution. On the Canada side, extensive preparations have been made for the accommodation of visitors by the WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS PARK COMPANY.
A river-side walk has been constructed, partially by excavation from the side of the cliff, and a delightful park on the bank of the river, with plenty of trees and shrubbery, renders a promenade on this shore very attractive. An inclined railway, to facilitate the journey between the upper and lower levels, has been constructed, and equipped with cars, operating in a novel and ingenious manner. The cars have tanks below the seats; these tanks are filled with water from a spring at the back of the entrance building, by means of a pipe leading into the tank. 50 lbs. weight of water is sufficient to overcome the balance of the cars, and to carry the loaded car to the foot of the railway, the light one being simultaneously drawn to the top by the same power. Formerly these cars were operated by steam-power, but the present is by far the safest and most economical plan, there being no machinery to get out of order, no danger of damage from bursting of boiler, etc., the entire apparatus necessary being the check or governor, by which the person in charge can regulate or stop the speed of the car with perfect ease. These cars take 12 passengers each; the tanks are capable of containing 2,800 lbs. of water. As they reach the foot of the incline, a bolt or pin removes the fastening to the discharge pipe and discharges the water, thus leaving the car in readiness for its next ascent, which is made in about one and a half minutes. The total length of the railroad is 285 feet.
At the water’s edge, a photographic studio is located, thus giving to all an opportunity of being portrayed with the Whirlpool Rapids in the backgrounds.
Returning again to the Falls, we find on the Canada side several points of interest, not yet considered in these pages. At Table Rock an opportunity is afforded of visiting the MUSEUM, a collection of natural curiosities, works of art, etc., well worthy of a visit. A zoological garden is kept in connection, and an observatory affords a good outlook from a lofty stand-point.
THE BURNING SPRING.
About a mile above the Falls, reached by a pleasant drive or walk, across Cedar Island, in view of the Rapids, is the natural curiosity known as the Burning Spring, the waters of which are highly charged with sulphuretted hydrogen, which burns with a pale blue flame when ignited. This is supposed to have its origin in a coal formation, believed by some to be extensive, and worthy of mining. The proprietor, however, has not sufficient faith in the feasibility of the scheme to undertake it. Clark Hill Islands, a group of five, which are crossed in the approach to the burning spring, are in the midst of the rapids, and a fine carriage drive extends along their outer shores, affording a good view of the current, which is here very rapid. These islands are connected with the main land by two suspension bridges, which have been named “Castor” and “Pollux.”
On Cedar Island, near the Horseshoe Falls, a Pagoda has been erected, over 80 feet in height, from which a magnificent view can be had. It is a noticeable landmark from all points in the vicinity of the Falls.
LUNDY’S LANE BATTLE FIELD.
As a spot, of no little historical interest, the scene of the decisive battle between the English and American forces, July 25, 1814, receives many visitors, of all nationalities. The ground is about a mile and a half due west from the Falls, near the village of Drummondville, named in honor of Gen. Drummond, who commanded the British forces in the engagement. Two towers have been erected to mark the spot, and from their summits a good view is had of the surrounding country. It was the writer’s good fortune, on the occasion of his first visit to the scene, some years ago, to listen to a description of the battle from the lips of a surviving participant, who wore the British uniform on the occasion, but who gave the American forces great credit for gallantry in the fight. The total loss, in killed and wounded, was about eighteen hundred men.
DEVIL’S HOLE.
About half a mile below the Whirlpool, on the American side, a gloomy cavern in the bank has received the above title. It is about one hundred feet in depth, and from its forbidding aspect might well be regarded as the property of his Satanic majesty. Tradition makes this locality the scene of the massacre of the English supply train and escort in 1763, by the Seneca Indians, instigated by the French traders. The train was on its way from Fort Niagara to Fort Schlosser, and only three of its number escaped alive, while of the escort only eight returned to Fort Niagara.
Much that would be of interest to the reader might be written concerning the Falls and the surroundings, but we have already devoted a large amount of space to the subject, and must close with a few necessary particulars. For the convenience of those who may need the facts, we tabulate the rates of toll, carriage hire, etc., the latter being the rate fixed by law as permissible. It may be well to add, however, that most of the drivers are willing to make a special rate, considerably lower than those given, and, as previously remarked, this should be expressly agreed upon before starting out, including an understanding as to the payment of the tolls and gate fees.
RATES OF TOLL
Goat Island $ .50 Cave of the Winds 1.00 Prospect Park .25 Inclined Railway .25 Shadow of the Rock 1.00 New Suspension Bridge .25 Ferry .25 Behind Sheet of Water (Table Rock) 1.00 Burning Spring .50 Railway Bridge, over and back .50 Whirlpool Rapids .50 Whirlpool .50
RATES OF FARE ALLOWED BY LAW,
FOR CARRIAGE HIRE WHERE NO EXPRESS CONTRACT IS MADE THEREFOR.
For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from one place to another in the village, 50 cents.
Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage, 25 cents.
For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from any point in this village to any point in the village of Suspension Bridge, 1 dollar.
Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage, 50 cents.
Each additional piece of baggage other than ordinary baggage, 12 cents.
Children under 3 years of age, free.
Over 3 years and under 14 years, half price.
Ordinary baggage is defined to be 1 trunk and 1 bag, hat or band-box, or other small parcel.
For carrying one or more passengers, in the same carriage, from any point in this village to any point within 5 miles of the limits of the village, at the rate of $1.50 for each hour occupied, except that in every instance where such carriage shall be drawn by a single horse, the fare therefor shall be at the rate of 1 dollar for each hour occupied.
HOTELS.--Although a little out of its natural connection, this subject seems to demand at least a paragraph. The constant influx of visitors, especially during the summer months has created a demand for hotel accommodations at Niagara, which has been met in the erection of such houses as the Cataract, International, Spencer, Niagara, Kaltenbach, Goat Island, and a multitude of others, of various grades of excellence, both at the Falls and Suspension Bridge.
The route to the sea _via_ the St. Lawrence River having become a great favorite with summer tourists, we give in this connection a description of some of its principal attractions. The majestic river, whose channel is the outlet for all the waters of the great chain of inland seas, runs in a general northeasterly direction, from Lake Ontario to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, through a country full of objects of interest to the traveler and sight-seer, and by its navigability becomes the medium by which they may be reached.
Leaving Niagara Falls in the evening, sleeping cars are run, _via_ New York Central, Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg, and Utica & Black River Railroads, to Clayton, arriving next morning in time to connect with the palace day steamers of the ST. LAWRENCE STEAMBOAT COMPANY. Should the tourist prefer to make the trip by daylight, he will find the scenery pleasant and attractive. He will thus reach Clayton in the evening, and remain until morning, proceeding as above.
The pleasures of a trip down the St. Lawrence, among the celebrated Thousand Islands, through the foaming rapids, and past the charming villages which lie along the shore, have been the theme of extravagant praise from many a summer tourist, and the constantly increasing popularity of this route is ample evidence that they do not soon grow old. You may usually find among the passengers many who have made the trip several seasons in succession, and the summer resorts of the St. Lawrence are visited by the same tourists year after year, so many and varied are the charms presented.
LAKE OF THE THOUSAND ISLANDS.
CLAYTON, the steamboat landing of the AMERICAN LINE, is upon the shore of the river where it broadens out among the group of islands of nearly double the number indicated by the name. The trip therefore commences in the midst of beautiful scenery, to continue in a succession of delights and surprises, until its close at the wharf in Montreal. One and a half miles from Clayton is ROUND ISLAND PARK, occupying the island from which it takes its name. A lovelier spot is not to be found. An elegant hotel, numerous cottages, pleasant groves, splendid drives, and a beautiful water-front, are among the features that contribute to its attractiveness, and give promise of making it the resort _par excellence_ among the island gems of this beautiful river. The association controlling the Park, while supposed to be denominational, is by no means sectarian, and the largest freedom is allowed the occupants, untrammeled by the claims or caprices of fashion, such as sometimes destroy all liberty at fashionable resorts.
THE LUXURY OF CAMP-LIFE
Is here enjoyed to its fullest extent. The beautiful groves along the shores of the island, reached by boat or the inland paths and drives, afford delightful camping-places, while the ready communication with the “haunts of civilization” places the conveniences, and even luxuries for those who desire them, within easy reach. Round Island is about a mile in length, and eight hundred to twelve hundred feet wide. Its shape is not correctly indicated by its name, it being more nearly oval than round.
In summing up the attractions of the island, we can do no better than to employ the language of one of its summer residents, who writes as follows:--
What Round Island has NOT: Marshes, mosquitoes, malaria, drinking saloons, accumulated refuse, impure air, impure water.
What Round Island has: The purest and most invigorating air, the clearest and most delicious water, the pleasantest drives, inviting walks, beautiful views, unparalleled scenery, facilities for amusement, accommodations for rest, cleanliness, healthfulness, between thirty and forty cottages, an elegant hotel, fifty-five acres of lawn, a two-mile driving track, bathing houses, and every convenience to make cottage or hotel life charming.
THOUSAND ISLAND PARK.
More widely known, perhaps, than any of the other St. Lawrence resorts, is the great camp-meeting park of the Methodist denomination bearing the above title. It is located at the upper end of Wells Island, and has rapidly grown to large proportions, combining, as it does, the religious, social and pleasure-seeking elements, often united in the same individuals. It has a large village of permanent cottages, which is greatly increased in the summer by the “cotton houses” of those who come for a brief stay, either in attendance upon the religious services or for a short respite from business in camp life. It has a post-office, public buildings, stores, and the conveniences of town life, together with boat houses, landings, dock room, etc., and being in the main channel of the river, it is readily accessible to visitors, as the boats make it one of their important landings.
WESTMINSTER PARK.
The lower portion of Wells Island is also under the control of a religious association, being owned by a regularly chartered society called the Westminster Park Association. With the usual conservatism of people of the “orthodox” faith, there is nothing of the camp-meeting order here, although services are held in Bethune chapel every Sunday during the season. The Park comprises about five hundred acres, occupying an irregular neck of upland, rising in some places to a commanding height, overlooking the scene for miles in extent. Tasteful cottages occupy the building lots into which a large portion of the Park has been divided. An elegant hotel, called the WESTMINSTER, under excellent management, is kept in first-class style, at from two to three dollars per day. Directly opposite from this park, on the New York shore, is
ALEXANDRIA BAY,
Sometimes called the “Saratoga of the St. Lawrence.” As a summer resort, it is fairly entitled to the name, being one of the most popular watering places in America. Its summer hotels are among the most commodious and attractive to be found anywhere, while private cottages and villas have sprung up on every available site, both on the shore, and on all the islands near. The facilities for fishing and boating, combined with the pure and invigorating atmosphere, and the beautiful scenery, attract to the place a tide of summer visitors, ever increasing in volume with each succeeding year. Alexandria Bay is only twelve miles from Clayton, and the approach, by boat, is charming, as the pretty cottages come in view all along the shore, succeeded by the imposing hotel fronts as the harbor is neared. Among the handsome villas, that of the late Dr. J. G. Holland. “Bonnie Castle,” is a conspicuous object, occupying a promontory which projects just below the landing.
THE THOUSAND ISLAND HOUSE,
A view of which we herewith present, is one of the finest hotels, both in point of its general arrangements and the natural advantages afforded by its location, to be found at any pleasure resort on the river. It is built on the solid rock, near the steamboat landing, and its windows command an extensive prospect, both up and down the river and across the Bay to Westminster Park. The view is still further expanded by ascending the lofty tower which adorns the center of the structure, rising 160 feet above the foundation, and surmounted with a balcony, affording an outlook of surpassing loveliness and grandeur. The hotel is the largest on the river, and will accommodate 700 guests.