Part 1
TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
Texts printed in italics, in bold face or underlined have been transcribed _between underscores_, =between equal signs= and ~between tildes~, respectively. Small capitals have been transcribed as ALL CAPITALS. More Transcriber’s Notes may be found at the end of this text.
“_CHICAGO TO THE SEA._”
EASTERN EXCURSIONIST
A COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE Principal Eastern Summer Resorts.
INCLUDING
_Niagara Falls, The White Mountains, Saint Lawrence and Saguenay Rivers, Montreal and Quebec, the New England Sea Beaches, etc.,_
AND
HOW AND WHEN TO ENJOY THEM.
BY WILLIAM C. GAGE, AUTHOR OF “THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA,” “HAND-BOOK OF TRAVEL,” “PLEASURE RESORTS OF THE GREAT NORTHWEST,” “GOOD BEHAVIOR AT HOME AND ABROAD,” ETC.
BATTLE CREEK, MICH. REVIEW & HERALD STEAM PRINTING WORKS. NEW YORK: UNION NEWS COMPANY. 1883.
I.--EASTWARD HO!
While it is true that the great tide of travel, like the “star of empire,” is ever westward, and the iron-bound highways leading toward the setting sun are the channels through which this current surges with ever-increasing volume, yet like those of the ocean, this tide has its ebb as well as flow. The business relations which exist between the East and the West render necessary a constant intercommunication, which of itself is sufficient to account for much of the returning travel. In addition to this, the social relations also exert their influence. The man who “went West” to make his fortune desires to revisit the home of his youth on the Eastern hillside. Perhaps his children, who have grown up on the prairies, wish to see the hills and valleys so often described by their parents, and contrast the almost boundless expanses of the “great West” with the rugged mountain scenery and the rocky farms, where unceasing toil, coupled, perhaps, with honest poverty, laid the foundation for sterling integrity, which the ease and freedom of Western life have not served to obliterate.
The attractions of the natural scenery of the East are of themselves sufficient to call to them annually thousands of tourists, who, independently of the causes already mentioned, occupy their “summer vacations” with an Eastern tour simply for the enjoyment of the attractions presented in the way of pleasant routes of travel, and the scenery to be enjoyed on the way or at the objective point of the journey.
With a view of meeting the wants of this great and constantly increasing class of excursionists, this work has been written. It is designed to point out the most desirable routes between Chicago and the Eastern seaboard, and to serve as a book of ready reference by the way. The lines of travel chosen are such as will give the tourist the most favorable opportunities for visiting the celebrated summer resorts _en route_, and secure the advantages of palace coaches, dining cars, quick transit, and sure connections,--considerations which combine to make a journey enjoyable, and by means of which a trip becomes a luxury as a means as well as an end.
The descriptions are made simple and practical, and with no effort to impart a roseate hue to the scenes described, but with a view to aid the tourist in “seeing with his own eyes” the beauties of landscape or other scenery from the most favorable points of observation, and discover for himself the things too often seen only through the medium of the guide book.
II.--SUMMER TRAVEL.
The benefits arising from a summer jaunt, with its release from the cares of business, are of inestimable value. “Work and worry” are killing hundreds who might be saved to long life and happiness could they but break away from their toil for a trip to the mountains or seaside, or some other place where business could for the time be forgotten. Though the respite be only a brief one, a break in the monotony of a busy life will sometimes relieve the tension which if too long continued snaps asunder the strings which need relaxation to preserve their strength.
The man who esteems his life work too important to admit of vacations sometimes learns, when too late for remedy, that unremitting application to his task has totally disqualified him for its continuance, and long before the period when he ought to be in his prime, he is compelled to relinquish to others the work he so fondly hoped to finish himself. A little relaxation now and then might have saved him from a collapse, but “he couldn’t afford the time.”
Happily for the American business world, the infection of “summer travel” grows more and more contagious as its benefits become better understood. Year by year the tide increases in volume, and the facilities of travel are multiplied to meet the demand. If these pages shall serve to assist the tourist in the choice of his route, or, the choice being made, in rendering his journey more enjoyable, their purpose will be fully met.
THE STARTING POINT.
Chicago, the great metropolis of the Northwest, with its multitude of railroad lines, and its enormous commercial interests, is most naturally the point of departure for east-bound tourists. Travelers from localities west of Chicago will desire to tarry in the city for a brief period, to visit its water-works, the grand exposition building, and the variety of other objects of interest which render the place attractive to strangers. In carrying out this purpose, they will find the hotel accommodations of the city to be second to none in America. The Grand Pacific, Palmer, Clifton, Briggs, Sherman, Merchants, and a host of others of good repute, invite the tourist to share their hospitalities, with the assurance of regal fare and sumptuous accommodations. For full information in regard to Chicago hotels and their terms, the reader is referred to the _Daily National Hotel Reporter_, which gives reliable and complete advices on this subject.
The limits of this work forbid even a mention of the many objects of interest to be seen in Chicago; and having to do with the city only as the starting point for our tourist, we next settle the question as to the route by which our Eastern journey is to be performed. Keeping in view the important points of speed, safety and comfort, together with the attractiveness of the scenery _en route_, we find the claims of
THE MICHIGAN CENTRAL RAILROAD
To be of a character to meet all the requirements of the most exacting traveler. It has long been known as the NIAGARA FALLS ROUTE, and its recent acquirement of the Canada Southern Railway, making now a continuous line from Chicago to the very verge of the famous cataract, more fully than ever entitles it to that appellation. Its through sleeping-car connections, its superior equipment, its famous dining-cars, together with the attractive country which it traverses, and the many interesting points reached by it, all combine to decide the question of superiority, and influence the tourist in his choice of routes.
The traveler arriving in Chicago by other roads, and not desiring to tarry in the city, can be immediately transferred by Parmelee’s omnibus line to the depot of the Michigan Central, at the foot of Lake street, and taking his seat in a Wagner drawing-room car, commence his journey with baggage checked through to destination, and with the assurance that his comfort will be carefully considered on the part of the train employés from the beginning of his trip to the end of the road.
THE CELEBRATED FAST EXPRESS
Of this road leaves Chicago in the afternoon, and as all first-class tickets are accepted on this train without extra charge, it is a favorite with the traveling public. In the season of summer travel, it is a popular tourists’ train, on account of its timely arrival at Niagara, allowing the excursionist to spend the entire day at the Falls, and take the evening train for the St. Lawrence River, which is reached at Clayton the next morning. From this point, the elegant day boats of the ST. LAWRENCE STEAMBOAT COMPANY make the trip down the river to Montreal, _via_ Round Island Park, the celebrated Thousand Islands, the famous Rapids, and past the most lovely scenery of this beautiful river, which stoutly contests with the Hudson the claim to the title of the “Rhine of America.” The entire journey is by daylight, the boats reaching Montreal at 6 P. M. This trip, which will be more fully described in its proper place, constitutes one of the delightful features of the excursion “to the sea,” and has been immensely popularized by the efforts of the ST. LAWRENCE STEAMBOAT COMPANY, which is the only line down the St. Lawrence running boats exclusively for passenger service. It has won its way to the favor of the traveling public in the two past years of successful operation, being popularly known as the NEW AMERICAN LINE.
But to return to the point of digression. Leaving Chicago by any of the express trains of the Michigan Central, the tourist has at his service all the facilities which make pleasant a journey by rail. The celebrated Wagner drawing-room and sleeping cars are run through to New York and Boston without change, dining cars are attached to the trains at convenient hours for meals, and courteous and attentive conductors, train men, porters, etc., contribute to the comfort and pleasure of the traveler as occasion presents for their services.
The ride out of the city and through the suburbs for a considerable distance is along the shores of Lake Michigan, presenting views of the lake craft, with their white sails, or clouds of smoke and vapor from their stacks, as far as the eye can reach. The government pier, with its protecting wall, stretches along the shore, and in the distance may be seen the “crib” of the water-works.
On the other hand, the Douglas monument and park present themselves to view, together with numerous interesting objects peculiar to the suburbs of a great city, until, increasing its speed, the train passes fairly into the open country, which is here and there dotted with a suburban residence, or the buildings of some thrifty farmer, or perchance a pretty village, whose inhabitants have their business interests in Chicago, but their homes in the quiet suburbs of the bustling city.
Fifteen miles out, we pass the charming town of PULLMAN, a model settlement, sometimes called the “magic city,” with its elegant buildings, all of brick, in the most approved styles of architecture. Its important industrial enterprises are largely connected with the interests of travel, comprising the Allen paper car-wheel shops, the Pullman car manufactory, and various other establishments which contribute to the prosperity of this flourishing town.
At about this stage of the journey, if on board the Fast Express, or the later train known as the Atlantic, the tourist is greeted with the welcome announcement, from a man in white cap and apron, looking as though he had just stepped in from the Palmer House café,
“DINNER NOW READY IN THE DINING CAR.”
Among the modern comforts of railway traveling, the dining-car system takes a prominent place. The hasty scramble for refreshments at a wayside restaurant, with the constant fear of “getting left,” and a consequent bolting of half-masticated food, with dyspepsia in its train, now gives place to a leisurely eaten meal, served in elegant style, with all the appointments and conveniences that can be suggested by the most refined taste. The Michigan Central was among the first to adopt this innovation, and so popular has it become as an adjunct to their already long list of popular features, that they have recently constructed four of these elegant hotels upon wheels, and placed them upon their line between Chicago and Niagara Falls. These dining cars are models of taste, elegance and convenience, with spacious kitchens, store rooms and lavatories, large plate-glass windows, folding or opera chairs, and in fact every convenience that taste and experience could suggest for the comfort of their patrons.
A glance at the _menu_, which is as complete as that of a first-class hotel attests the fact that the gratification of its patrons, and not profit to its treasury, is the first great aim of the company in operating the dining-car system. Indeed, it may well be questioned how such elegant meals can be furnished for the sum of seventy-five cents, when a similar repast at many a hotel in the land would cost from one to two dollars. Perhaps a solution of the problem may be found in the remark of a shrewd Yankee, who once sat opposite the writer at table in one of these cars. He had evidently fasted for many hours previous, as his voracious appetite clearly indicated. On rising from the table, he soliloquized thus: “Well, I guess this concern han’t made much out o’ me this time, but I shall _allus come by this route hereafter_.”
The dining-car system is also in successful operation on the Canada division of the Michigan Central, the equipments and appointments being of the same character and completeness. Indeed, so popular has this feature become, that several other cars are in course of construction to extend the system in a manner to meet every demand of the public for accommodation in this direction.
But while we have been thus indulging in reflections on this subject, the train has been speeding onward, and here we are at MICHIGAN CITY, on the extreme southern shore of Lake Michigan, and the great lumber port of Northern Indiana. It is a railroad center of some importance, the Indianapolis, Peru & Chicago, and Louisville, New Albany & Chicago Railroads occupying the union depot with the Michigan Central. The population is about eight thousand, and its principal business interests are manufacturing and lumber. The view of the city from the car windows gives a less favorable impression of the place than a closer inspection entitles it to, the immense sand bluffs and unpretending buildings on the lake shore being the most conspicuous objects near the track. The city proper is quite an attractive and pleasant locality. Its chief hotels are the St. Nicholas, Union and Jewell.
Ten miles further eastward, we reach NEW BUFFALO, the southern terminus of the Chicago & West Michigan Railroad, which from this point skirts the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, forming the shore line to Pentwater. It is a pretty little town of about one thousand inhabitants.
Passing several stations at which the express trains make no stop, twenty miles further on we reach NILES, a flourishing city of nearly five thousand inhabitants.
The Michigan Central has a branch road running from this point to South Bend, and it is also the western terminus of its “Air Line” division, the other being Jackson. Much of the freight business of the road is done over this division, relieving the main line for the better accommodation of its immense passenger traffic. Mercantile and manufacturing interests occupy the attention of the thriving people of Niles, a superior water power furnishing excellent facilities for flour and paper mills and other enterprises, which combine to make this an important business center. Its leading hotels are the Bond, Pike and Farler.
At LAWTON, thirty-one miles from Niles, connection is made with the Paw Paw Railroad for Hartford, Lawrence and Paw Paw. The express trains do not stop, however, but, hurrying onward, the next important station is that so well known as the “Big Village.”
KALAMAZOO, with a population of about twelve thousand, and no city charter, prides itself on being one of the largest villages in America. Except in its municipality, however, it is, to all intents and purposes, a city, with its extensive public works, its thriving manufacturing establishments, and its important railroad interests. The South Haven division of the Michigan Central extends westward from here to the shore of Lake Michigan. Intersection is also made with the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railroad and the Kalamazoo division of the Lake Shore Railway. The manufacturing and mercantile interests of Kalamazoo are quite extensive, and it has also acquired no little celebrity as a market for superior agricultural products. Its leading hotels are the Burdick House, Kalamazoo House and American House.
BATTLE CREEK, twenty-three miles east of Kalamazoo, is the next important city on the route, and is one of the most thriving and enterprising towns in the State. Many of its business interests are on an extensive scale, notably the manufacture of threshing machinery and engines, three large establishments being devoted to this industry. On approaching the city the buildings of the _Review & Herald_ Publishing establishment are among the first to attract attention, and just before the train comes to a halt, it passes the shops of the BATTLE CREEK MACHINERY COMPANY, which are on the left of the track, while the factory of the UNION SCHOOL FURNITURE COMPANY is nearly opposite, on the right. The products of the former company are shipped to all parts of the world, while the “Automatic” school-seat is acquiring a national reputation as one of the most convenient and unique articles of furniture ever put in use in a school-room.
The intersection of the Michigan Central, the Chicago & Grand Trunk, and the Toledo & Milwaukee Railroads, the latter just completed, renders Battle Creek an important railroad center, and accounts for the rapid and prosperous growth of the city. This is also the location of the
CELEBRATED MEDICAL AND SURGICAL SANITARIUM,
Which has gained an enviable reputation as an invalid’s home. Although not originally designed as a summer resort, its facilities in that direction have made it a favorite summer home for many who would hardly call themselves invalids. Here may be found a remedy for one great drawback to the success of summer vacations in general, which are often robbed of much of their sanitary benefit by poor food and inattention to the laws of health. While the _cuisine_ of this establishment is of the most bounteous character, it is especially ordered with reference to healthfulness, and is in itself one important element of the great success of the institution in curing the sick.
The facilities of the SANITARIUM for the treatment of disease are the best known to modern medical science. In addition to baths of every description, including Turkish, Russian, vapor, electro-vapor, thermal, etc., the employment of massage, Swedish movements, and the various forms of electrical treatment, are provided for by costly appliances, some of which were designed expressly for this institution. When we add that the medical superintendent, Dr. J. H. Kellogg, is a member of the State Board of Health, and occupies a position of great prominence as a writer and lecturer on sanitary matters, and that a staff of educated and intelligent gentlemen and lady physicians are constantly caring for patients and visitors, we have indicated some of the reasons for the marvelous prosperity of the institution. Our illustration gives a view of the main building. A large number of cottages and other buildings make up the facilities of the SANITARIUM for taking care of its guests.
The leading hotels of Battle Creek are the Lewis House and the Williams House, the Sanitarium being also a favorite transient home with many travelers.
Shortly after leaving the station at Battle Creek, the train comes to a halt at the crossing of the Chicago & Grand Trunk Railway, at the station named Nichols, the location of the extensive works where are manufactured the celebrated Nichols, Shepard & Co.’s “Vibrator” threshing machinery, engines, etc. This is one of the most important industries of the city, giving employment to a large number of skilled mechanics. Just beyond are the railroad shops of the C. & G. T. Company, which also furnish employment to a goodly number of men.
MARSHALL, the next important station, is a pleasant little town, the county seat of Calhoun county, with some manufacturing interests, and considerable wealth, being the center of a large and prosperous agricultural district. It is widely known among travelers as the dining station of the Michigan Central Railroad. The day trains still make their stops here for dinner, and the hours of midday are among the liveliest the people of this quiet place witness. It is the boast of the managers of the dining-rooms that a failure to provide chicken pie for their guests has occurred but once in seventeen years, although fabulous prices often have to be paid for the feathered bipeds to perpetuate the time-honored custom.
The Tontine, Forbes and Tremont Houses are the principal hotels.
ALBION is the next town of much importance in our journey, and is really a thriving place, some of its manufactures being widely known. It is also the seat of Albion College, a flourishing denominational school, under the management of the Methodists. Our road here intersects the Lansing division of the Lake Shore Railway. The principal hotels of Albion are the Commercial and the Albion House.
Our next important station is JACKSON, the largest city in the interior of the State. As the central point of heavy railroad interests, important manufactures, and extensive commercial enterprises, the city is well known. The State prison is located here, and is of itself a manufacturing establishment of no little importance. The railroad shops of the Michigan Central give employment to nearly a thousand men, and thus contribute largely to the city’s prosperity. The mineral resources of the vicinity are of no small magnitude, comprising coal, salt, fire clay, etc.
It is the terminus of the Grand River Valley, Air Line, and Saginaw divisions of the Michigan Central Railroad and the Fort Wayne and Jackson branches of the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Railway. Passengers change here for the pleasure resorts of northern Michigan, _via_ the Mackinaw Division of the Central, with which connection is made at Bay City.
The Hibbard House, the Hurd House, the Commercial, and several smaller hotels, take good care of travelers who have occasion to tarry in Jackson.
Thirty-eight miles west of Detroit, the train halts at ANN ARBOR, the county seat of Washtenaw county, which has a resident population of about ten thousand, not including the students of the State University, which number nearly fifteen hundred. The city is pleasantly situated on both sides of the Huron River, its streets being wide, finely laid out, and adorned with shade trees. The Toledo, Ann Arbor & Grand Trunk Railway gives the place a north and south business outlet, while the Central takes care of the east and west business. The Huron River furnishes excellent water power, and the flourishing industries of the city show how well it is improved.
In addition to all these, its reputation as an educational center places it among the most important of Michigan cities. Its local public schools are of a high order of excellence, especially its High School, which occupies an elegant building costing $50,000. But its chief importance in this respect is from the fact of its being the seat of the University of Michigan, with its departments of literature, science and arts, law, medicine, pharmacy, dental surgery, and engineering. This institution has almost a world-wide reputation as one of the foremost schools in the land, and indeed many of its students are from abroad, attracted by its fame, and the excellent facilities at their command.
The St. James, Cook, and Leonard Houses, are the principal hotels.