Chats on Old Lace and Needlework
Chapter 10
Same, with Herodias's daughter and John the Baptist 5 5 0
A portrait of Henry, Prince of Wales, in flat-stitch on rose satin 21 0 0
Another on satin, "Bathsheba," spangled, 17 x 13 6 16 0
Another on satin, birds on gold and silver, 13 x 13 (Harris) 13 13 6
A bead picture, 15 x 11 11 11 0
A stump and bead picture, 12 x 11 12 1 6
A small book-cover, 14 x 8 13 12 0
A Stuart stump picture, figures and silver fountain, tortoiseshell frame, 22 x 16 15 15 0
A stump picture, lady with coral necklace, 18 x 12 23 10 0
A stump picture, lady under arch with a black swan, 20 x 16 (Stoner) 34 0 0
A stump picture, King Charles as Ahasuerus with Haman and Mordecai, and pearl-embroidered carpet, 23 x 17 28 0 0
A stump picture, lady under a canopy, large pearls, 13 x 19, (Stoner) 34 0 0
A Stuart Petit Point picture, Abraham and Hagar 16 16 0
A Stuart petit point picture, "Judgment of Paris," 24 x 17 25 0 0
A Stuart petit point picture, King Solomon and Queen of Sheba 18 18 0
A beadwork picture, lady and gentleman, lion and unicorn, 21 x 17 12 12 6
An embroidered picture, "Peter denying Christ," 24 x 17 (S. G. Fenton) 9 19 6
A petit point picture, lake with boats and figures, 15 x 12 (Harris) 14 14 6
A large stump picture, with horse and rider and figures of four seasons 30 10 0
A stumpwork picture, four figures, castle and birds and flowers (S. G. Fenton) 33 0 0
A picture sketched on white satin, not worked 4 15 0
A Stuart picture on canvas 9 19 6
A fine Stuart jewel-casket, numerous secret drawers, covered in needlework (S. G. Fenton) 47 5 0
A Stuart box, covered with bullion-work (S. G. Fenton) 12 12 0
A Stuart box, with embroidery and pearls (Spero) 16 16 0
A Stuart box, coloured bullion, 10 x 6 9 9 0
An embroidered box, with portrait on lid (S. G. Fenton) 53 11 0
A Stuart mirror, covered with stump embroidery, representing Charles I. and his Queen (illustrated), (Rosthron) 102 18 0
Another mirror, with painted and embroidered figures (Harris) 34 0 0
A Charles I. mirror in old lace and gold frame, with borders in embroidery, with portrait, castle, and floral decoration 40 0 0
3 yds. 13 inches long, 12 inches deep, Cornice in Petit Point, Christie's, July, 1908 (Harris) 204 15 0
XV
CONCLUSION
XV
CONCLUSION
Needlework as a national art is as dead as the proverbial door-nail; whether or not it ever regains its position as a craft is a matter of conjecture. Personally, I incline to the belief that it is absolutely extinct. The death-knell rang for all time when the sewing-machine was invented. The machine has been a very doubtful blessing, as it has allowed even the art of stitchery in ordinary work to slide into the limbo of forgotten things. What woman now knows what it is to "back-stitch" a shirt cuff, for instance, drawing a thread for guidance, and carefully going back two or three threads in order to make a neat, firm line of stitching? The sewing-machine does all this, and _does_ it _well_, a clever machinist turning out more work in a week than a seamstress in a year. If this were all, it would be no matter for regret, but with the necessity for needlework has vanished the desire. The lady quoted in Green's History is now non-existent. "She was a pattern of sobriety unto many, very seldom seen abroad except at church; when others recreated themselves at holidays and other times, she would take her needlework, and say, 'Here is my recreation.'"
In spite of the many Schools of Embroidery, with a few notable exceptions, nothing is done to raise the standard of embroidery above making miserable little cushion-covers, table-centres, and suchlike pretty fripperies for the temporary adornment of the house. The women of Germany, Holland, Sweden, Italy, on the contrary, take a great interest in the embroidery of the bed and table linen and the really artistic embroidery of their national costumes. Nothing of this is seen in England. Table linen is bought _ready hemmed_ at the shop. Dainty tea-cloths and serviettes are purchased ready embroidered (by machine) and trimmed with machine-made lace. Even _lingerie_ of all classes is machine-made and bought by the dozen, instead of being made by the daughters of the house.
The only hope of a revival lies in the various Art schools in the country where designing for fine embroidery and lace is encouraged. Unfortunately, however, equal facilities are offered for designing of machine-made imitations. The Royal School of Needlework, not being a Government institution, offers no encouragement to outsiders. It is in the hands of a number of ladies, who manage it as they will; and although very fine work is accomplished, they trust too much to modern designers and artists who work out their own pet theories and hobbies. If only they would put aside all theories and new ideas, and _go back_ to the best periods of English art both for their designs and execution, even yet, with the intelligent use of the glorious examples in the adjoining Museum, much might be done to revivify this expiring art.
FINIS
INDEX
INDEX
OLD LACE. (_For Needlework see page 384_)
A
Adelaide, Queen, 116
Age of lace, 108, 191
Alencon lace, 29, 78, 183, 191
Argentan lace, 29, 78, 191
Argentella lace, 29, 81, 192
Anne, Queen, 157
Applique, 175
Aylesbury, 158
B
Baby lace, 157
Barri, Madame du, 90
Beading, 41
Beads on bobbins, 161
Bed furnishing, 73
Bedfordshire lace, 37, 157
Belgian lace, 37
Black lace, 94
Blonde lace, 94
Bone lace, 41
Bobbins, 41, 158
Bolckow, Mrs., 54
Brides, 38, 127
Brussels lace, 37, 81, 104, 108, 123, 195
Brussels applique, 123
Brussels Vrai Reseau, 111
Buckinghamshire lace, 30, 35, 157, 158, 161
Burano, 54, 81
Buttonhole stitch, 195
C
Caen lace, 97
Carrick-ma-cross, 175
Catherine de Medici, 73
Chantilly lace, 37, 93
Charles I., 148
Charles II., 104, 148, 151
Charlotte, Queen, 161
Christie's sale-room, 115, 201
Colbert, 29, 73, 77, 102
Collar lace, 61
Collar, Medici, 53
Commonwealth, 148
Cordonnet, 41, 53, 77
Convents, 26
Coptic embroideries, 21
Couronnes, 41
Cravat, 151
Creevy Papers, 115
Cromwell, 151
Crotchet, 175
Cut worke, 73, 187
Cuthbert, St., 22
D
Danish lace, 134
Darned netting, 173
Debenham & Storr's sale-room, 54, 200
Dentele, 41
Devonshire lace, 30, 162
Dorsetshire lace, 161
Drawn work, 21
Duchesse lace, 127
Durham Cathedral, 22
E
Ecclesiastical lace, 62
Edgings, 31
Edward IV., 144
Egyptian netting, 22
Elizabeth, Queen of England, 54, 147
Embroidered net, 172
English laces, 157
Empress Eugenie, 97
F
Falling collar, 148
Fausse Valenciennes, 89
Fillings, 40, 173
"Figure" motifs, 107
Flanders lace, 29, 103
Flat point (point plat), 50
Flax thread, 61, 107
Florence, 53
Flemish point, 103
Fond, 42
Fontange, 151
Fowler, Mrs., of Honiton, 166
France, point de, 74
French Revolution, 78
G
Genoese lace, 29
George I., 115
George II., 115
George III., 115
George IV., 112
German laces, 134
Ghent laces, 124
Gingles, 161
Gold and silver laces, 134
Greek laces, 103, 183
Groppo, Punto a, 62
Gros, Point de Venise, 53
Grounds, 37
Guipure, 42, 61
Gold lace, 22
H
Hamilton lace, 171
"Hayward's," 114
Henry VII., 144
Henry VIII., 147
High Wycombe, 158
History of lace, 21
Honiton, 30, 35, 165
Honiton applique, 30
Huguenots, 30
I
Identification of lace, 183
Irish lace, 30, 172, 176, 192
Italian lace, 45
J
James I., 148
James II., 151
Jours, 41, 81
K
Kenmare, Lady, 75
King of Rome, 112
L
"Lacis," 29, 73
Lappets, 112
Lawn, 93
Lewis Hill, Mrs., 201
Lille, 35, 91
Limerick, 124, 172
L'Onray, 76
Louis XIV., 29, 46, 73, 74
Louis XV., 78
Lyme Regis, 162
M
Machine-made ground, 172
Macrame, 37, 64
Malines, 127
Maltese, 137
Mantillas, 97
Marie Antoinette, 78, 123, 129
Massey-Mainwaring, Mrs., 200
Marie de Medici, 53
Marie Stuart, 171
Mary, Queen, 147
Mary II., 151, 152
Mechlin, 37, 127
Medici collar, 53
Mezzo Punto, 62
Milanese lace, 29, 62
Mixed lace, 37, 62, 124
Modern point lace, 124
Montespan, Madame de, 74
N
Napoleon I., 78, 112
National Library, S.K.M., 50
Needlepoint lace, 49, 73, 108
Network, ancient, 3
Newport Pagnell, 158
Normandy lace, 97
Norway, 134
Northamptonshire lace, 157
Nuns, 26
O
Oeil de perdrix, 83, 192
Origin of lace, 21
P
Palliser, Mrs. Bury, 9
Parchment, 25
Parasole, 50
Pearls, 97
Peter the Great, 134
Picots, 42
Pillow lace, 29, 37
Point lace, 25, 37
Point a reseau, 53
Point d'Aiguille (Brussels), 108
Point d'Alencon, 76
Point d'Angleterre, 102, 107, 192
Point applique, 123
Point de France, 46, 76, 188
Point de Gaze, 108, 124
Point de Venise, 49
Point de Venise Gros, 50, 53, 54
Point de Neige, 49, 50
Point plat, 50
Punto in aria, 25, 143
Punto a groppo, 37, 62
Punto tagliato a foliami, 53
Q
Quillings, 128
Quentin Matys, 103
Queen Anne, 157
Queen Mary II., 117, 127, 151
Queen Charlotte, 117, 128
Queen of Laces, 128
Queen Victoria, 116, 162
R
Raised stars, 49
Rose point, 49, 50
Renaissance, 53, 107, 188
Reseau, 36, 39
Reticella, 26, 50, 73, 103, 143, 188
Revolution, French, 78
Rococo, 78
Royal trousseaux, 81
Ruffles, 90
Russian lace, 134
S
St. Cuthbert, 22
Sale prices, 199
Samplers, 25, 187
Saxony lace, 134
Scotch lace, 171
Silk lace, 94
Smocks, 25
Spanish point, 133
Steinkirk, 151
Sumptuary law, 112
South Kensington Museum, 187
T
Tambour lace, 172
Tape lace, 62
Tatting, 175
Thread, 61
Toile, 108
Trolly lace, 165
V
Valenciennes lace, 37, 89
Vandyke, 61, 148
Venice, 183
Vicellio, 50
Venetian lace, 50
Victoria, Queen, 162, 165
Vinciolo, 29, 50
Vraie Valenciennes, 89, 90
W
Westminster effigies, 147, 151, 152
William and Mary, 148, 151
"Wynyards," 115
William III., 115
Wiltshire lace, 115
Willis's Rooms, 201
Y
Youghal laces, 176
NEEDLEWORK
A
Athelstan, 213
Alb, 238
Aldhelm, Bishop of Sherborne, 213
Aelfled, Queen of Edward the Elder, 213
Angelica Kauffmann, 339
Art, the pioneer, 209
Ascagni cope, 223
Ascoli cope, 233
B
Bags, Stuart, 261
Bayeux tapestry, 214
Beads, Venetian, 274
Berlin wool pictures, 350
Bishop Fridhestan, 213
Black work, 284
Bologna cope, 223
Book-covers, 279
Bridgettine nuns, 227
C
Catworth cushions, 233
Catherine of Aragon, 248, 251, 284
Caskets, 269
Chain stitch, 227
Charles I., 265, 273
Charles II., 265, 273
Chasubles, 241
Christie's sale-rooms, 257, 265, 270, 367
City palls, 237
Church vestments, 238
Coventry, 228
Copes, 241
Crewel work, 329
D
Daroca cope at Madrid, 223
Dr. Rock, 227
E
Earl of Shrewsbury, 228
Editha, Queen of Edward the Confessor, 213
Egyptian embroidery, 210
Emma, Queen of Ethelred the Unready, 213
Elizabeth's wardrobe, 249
Elizabeth's Book at British Museum, 283
Elizabeth's Book at the Bodleian Library, 283
Elizabeth Hinde's Sampler, 309
Elizabeth Mackett's Sampler, 311
F
Field of the Cloth of Gold, 249
G
Georgian costumes, 363
Georgian pictures, 335
Gimps, 249
Gloves, 262, 265
Greek garments, 359
H
Hampton Court, 250, 322
Hair and silk pictures, 343
Henrietta Maria, Queen, 265
Henry VIII., 247
Hoechon collection, 220
I
Isleworth, 227
Italian raised work, 295
J
James I., 257
Jacobean hangings, 321
"Jesse" Cope, 223
John Taylor's Needlework Rhyme, 258
L
Lady Jane Grey, 247
"Laid," or couch work, 227
Linwood, Miss, 350
M
Maniple, 241
Mary Queen of Scots, 250
Mary II. embroidery, 325
Minerva, 358
Mirror frames, 273
N
Needlework pictures, 291, 335, 349
Neolithic remains, 210
"Nevil" altar-frontal, 234
O
Opus Anglicum, or Anglicanum, 219, 223
P
"Painted face" picture, 335, 343
Petit point, 257, 325
Phoenicians, 359
Phrygian embroidery, 358
Pierpont Morgan, 233
Pocket books, 281
Pope Innocent III., 223
Q
Quilting, 287
R
Reformation, 246
Roman Invasion, 210
Royal School of Needlework, 353
Rock's "Church of Our Fathers," 220
S
Samplers, 307
St. Augustine, 210
St. Benedict, 220
St. Cuthbert, 213
St. Dunstan, 213
Steeple Aston altar-frontal, 234
Stoles, 238
Stump work, 295
Stump work symbols, 302
"Syon" cope, 223
Subjects of needle pictures, 295
T
Tambour stitch, 227
Tudor embroideries, 247
Trays, 270
W
Wonderful needlewoman, A, 351
Wolsey, Cardinal, 249, 250
Wolseley's, Lady, collection, 265, 273, 368
Worcester fragments, 219
_Printed in Great Britain by_ UNWIN BROTHERS, LIMITED, THE GRESHAM PRESS, WOKING AND LONDON
* * * * *
Transcriber's Note:
Obvious punctuation errors have been corrected.
Inconsistent hyphenation in the original has been preserved, e.g. cutwork, cut-work; hand-made, handmade; lace-workers, laceworkers; may-flower, mayflower; needle-craft, needlecraft; needle-point, needlepoint; salerooms, sale-rooms; semi-circular, semicircular.
Inconsistent use of accents has been preserved, e.g. applique, applique; reseau, reseau; toile, toile.
In the Index, Pierpoint was corrected to Pierpont to match the body of the text.
The main body of the text refers to the "Hockon collection", which is referred to in the index as the "Hoechon collection". It is unclear which of these is correct so they have been preserved as they appear in the original.
Page 25: 'survival of the fitting' changed to 'survival of the fittest'.
Page 38: 'accompanying diagrams' changed to 'accompanying diagram'.
Page 42: 'little loop' changed to 'little loops'.
Page 127: '"Duchesse point" of "Bruges,"' changed to '"Duchesse point" or "Bruges,"'.
Page 192: 'of same period' changed to 'of the same period'.
Page 196: 'other two' changed to 'two other'.
Page 300: 'and rose of England' changed to 'and the rose of England'.
Page 303: 'and butterfly was' changed to 'and butterfly were'.
Page 315: 'a long narrow Samplers' changed to 'a long narrow Sampler'.
Page 383: 'Punto a groppo' changed to 'Punto a groppo'.