Castles of Ireland: Some Fortress Histories and Legends

Part 7

Chapter 74,020 wordsPublic domain

Mason, “Parochial Survey of Ireland.” Murphy, “Cromwell in Ireland.” Bagwell, “Ireland Under the Tudors.” State Papers. Parliamentary Gazetteer. In Journal of _Kilkenny Archæological Society_, “Panegyric on Thomas Butler, 10th Earl of Ormond.” Graves, “Ancient Tapestry of Kilkenny Castle.” Graves, “Anonymous account of the early life and marriage of James, 1st Duke of Ormond.” In _Journal of Waterford and South-East of Ireland Archæological Society_, Hurley, “Was Anna Boleyn born in the Castle of Carrick-on-Suir?” In _Clonmel Chronicle_, “Carrick-on-Suir and its Ancient Castle.”

CARRIGOGUNNEL CASTLE

“A sort of strength, a strong and stately hold It was at first, though now it is full old. On rock alone full farre from other mount It stands, which shews it was of great account.” THOMAS CHURCHYARD.

This fortress, sometimes called Carrickaquicy, is situated five miles west-south-west of Limerick City, in the same county, in the barony of Pubble Brien. It stands on an abrupt basaltic rock which has forced itself through the limestone, and is surrounded by low marshy ground called Corkass land which stretches away to the Shannon.

O’Donovan states that the name signifies “rock of the O’Connolls,” but it is more popularly believed to mean “rock of the candle,” and several versions of the following legend are related to account for the designation:--

The site of the castle was formerly supposed to be inhabited by a hag of gigantic form called Grana, and every evening she lighted a candle in her habitation, which from its elevated position was visible for miles round, and every one who saw its light died before morning.

The great Finn hearing of this scourge ordered a man called Ryan to go and extinguish the light, and presented him with a charmed cap to accomplish the mission. This covered his eyes until he had scaled the rock, seized the candle, and thrown it into the Shannon.

The witch in a fury was about to grasp him when he took a jump of two miles westward, and she was only able

to vent her rage by hurling a rock after him, which is still pointed out with the marks of her fingers on it to indicate the “Hag’s Throw.”

The castle ruins comprise one or two towers and part of the ramparts. It was finally destroyed by gunpowder, and huge masses of masonry lie about in all directions, indicating its once extensive proportions.

A great ash-tree adorns the centre of the pile.

William de Braose had large estates in Ireland when he was driven into exile in 1210, his wife and son starved to death, and his Castle of Carrigogunnel granted to Donogh Cairbreach O’Brien for a yearly rent of 60 marks.

This O’Brien had done homage to King John at Waterford, but he seems to have been shortly afterwards deprived of his land.

In 1535 Lord Leonard Grey marched to Limerick and Mathew O’Brien surrendered him the Castle of Carrigogunnel on condition it should only be garrisoned by Englishmen. It was said at this time to have been in undisturbed possession of the O’Briens for over two hundred years.

The Deputy garrisoned it under the command of George Woodward, “an honest and a hardy man.”

In the meantime the fortress was given by indenture to Donough O’Brien to hold for the King. He was son-in-law to the Earl of Ossory, and had long been fawning on the Government with offers to besiege the castle for them, if provided with a hundred men and a piece of ordnance.

The governor of the castle, no doubt regarding this arrangement as a violation of the conditions on which the castle had been obtained, handed it back to its former owner, Mathew O’Brien, which the State Papers describe as losing it “by treachery.”

This was in 1536, and the same year Lord Butler appeared before it to regain it for his relative, Donough O’Brien.

It was garrisoned partly by followers of Desmond and partly by those of Mathew O’Brien.

A messenger was sent to them offering them their lives, but otherwise no quarter. They returned no answer, but imprisoned the bearer.

A breach was soon made with a battering piece, and after several attempts, the castle was carried by storm.

The besiegers lost thirty killed and wounded, while seventeen of the defenders were killed in the attack, and forty-six were afterwards put to death.

A few of the principal O’Briens were conveyed to Limerick, tried for high treason, and executed. Large ransoms were offered for these men but were refused.

The fortress was then committed to Lord Butler, and he transferred it to Donough O’Brien, who, it is stated, “became a scourge to the citizens of Limerick.”

James of Desmond besieged Carrigogunnel in 1538, and the following year great complaints were lodged about the plundering of the neighbouring country by the castle garrison.

Towards the close of the year these charges became so serious that Donough O’Brien was deprived of his possession.

The castle was in the hands of Brien Duff O’Brien, chieftain of Pobblebrien, in 1590, and is described as being very strong and “a most dangerous place if the enemy were seized thereof.”

Donough O’Brien is mentioned as of Carrigogunnel in 1607, yet Brien Duff O’Brien surrendered his possessions and the castle to the Queen and received a patent for the same. He was knighted, and died in 1615.

Daniel O’Brien forfeited the castle and lands for taking part in the rebellion of 1641. Charles II. granted Carrigogunnel and four plowlands to Michael Boyle, Lord Archbishop of Dublin.

In Thomas Dineley’s Journal he states that it belonged to His Royal Highness, and was at the time rented by the Primate and Chancellor of Ireland.

Archdale says that it at one time belonged to the Knights Templars.

In 1691, during the second siege of Limerick, after the battle of Aughrim, it was garrisoned by a Jacobite ward of a hundred and fifty men. Baron Ginle sent a strong party and four guns, under the command of Major-General Scravemore, to summon the castle, which was relinquished without a blow. An historian of the time, commenting upon this, says: “Which seems to have been rather from want of instructions what to do than courage to defend it; for, to give the Irish their due, they can defend stone walls very handsomely.”

The garrison were marched as prisoners of war to Clonmel, and the following month both the Castle of Carrigogunnel and Castle Connell were blown up. Dean Story received £160 to purchase gunpowder for their demolition.

During the Whiteboy disturbances frequent meetings were held amid the ruins.

Mr. and Mrs. Hall relate at length a sad tradition about the daughter of a Palatine who was in love with one of the conspirators, and whose father, having tracked her to the ruins, was only saved from being put to death by her lover, whom she shortly afterwards married against her parents’ wish.

Upon returning to bid farewell to them before going into exile with her husband, who was obliged to fly for his life, her father detained her. Her husband was unable to come openly to the house, and so she never saw him again, but gradually pined away, and died under the ash-tree growing among the castle ruins, where she used to meet him before their marriage. Since then her ghost is said to frequent the spot after nightfall.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

J. Frost, “The County of Clare.” Croker, “Researches in the South of Ireland.” Croker, “Fairy Legends.” Ferrar, “History of Limerick.” Lenihan, “History of Limerick.” Bagwell, “Ireland under the Tudors.” Hall, “Ireland.” State Papers. Parliamentary Gazetteer. Shirley (with note by O’Brien), “Extracts from the Journal of Thomas Dineley,” in _Journal of Kilkenny Archæological Society_.

_CASTLE BARNARD_

“Where Castle Bernard sees with glad surprise, At every wish successive beauties rise.”

The former name for this stronghold was Castle Mahon. It is situated on the River Bandon not far from the town. The present castle is said to occupy the site of the former royal rath of the O’Mahonys, Kings of Munster. It was called Rathleann, and the great Saint Fin Barr was born there. This was much anterior to the English invasion, although an inquisition held in 1584 states that the O’Mahonys came from Carbery in 1460, and seized the Crown lands, which had been forfeited by the Barry Oges in 1399.

They were, however, only returning to the country over which they had formerly ruled. The fortress is supposed to have been built by an O’Mahony.

Francis Bernard, who succeeded to the estate in 1660, threw down the ancient bawn walls, and enlarged the windows. His son, Judge Bernard, rebuilt the castle after it came into his possession in 1690.

A new brick front was added on the river side, the bricks having been made in the neighbourhood.

He was succeeded by his son Francis (usually known as Squire Bernard) in 1731, who added an eastern front to the fortress, and planted the great beech avenue. Smith, who collected his information in 1749, describes the castle as having two regular fronts of brick, with Corinthian pilasters and coignes and beltings of Portland stone.

In 1788 Francis Bernard, afterwards the 1st Earl of Bandon, pulled down the two fronts which had been added by his predecessors, and connected the old castle by a corridor (some 90 feet in length) with a mansion he erected a little to the east of the stronghold. This new part has large rooms, the library being a very handsome oval apartment.

This forms the present beautiful country seat of the Earl of Bandon. It is situated in a park about four miles in circumference, through which the Bandon River flows.

The O’Mahonys were not a powerful sept: their regular field force only numbered twenty-six horse, no gallow-glasses, and a hundred and twenty kern.

In 1575 the O’Mahony paid his respects to Sir Henry Sidney during his visit to Cork, of whom Sir Henry writes that he was “a man of small force although a proper countrie.”

Conoher O’Mahony, of Castle Mahon, threw in his lot with the Earl of Desmond during his rebellion, in which rising he was killed at the age of twenty-three.

In 1587, an inquisition held at Cork found that Conohor O’Mahownye, late of Castle Mahown, entered into rebellion with Gerald, late Earl of Desmond, and was slain therein and that he was seized of Castle Mahown and of the barony or cantred of Kineallineaky.

The following year the castle and lands were conferred by patent on Phane Beecher, son of Alderman Henry Beecher, of London.

Mr. William Weever, in his “discourse” on the Munster rebellion of 1598, records that Mr. Beecher deserted Castle Mahon during the rising.

In 1611 it seems the grant to Phane Beecher was confirmed.

The first Bernard to settle in Ireland during Elizabeth’s reign had a son Francis, who was lord of the manor of Castle Mahon, where he lived before the rebellion in 1641. He had one son, Francis, who was in possession of the castle in 1690 when Bandon was surprised and taken by Colonel M’Carthy’s men. After the town had fallen into their hands they proceeded to Castle Mahon and demanded the fortress and its stores to be given up to King James, and the garrison to surrender as prisoners.

Mr. Bernard had served many years with the Bandon Militia, and had been rewarded with a grant of land from Cromwell for military service, so that he was not likely to surrender without a struggle when the trumpeter appeared on the esplanade in front of the castle.

He had gathered his retainers and the neighbouring farmers into the stronghold, and flew the red flag from King John’s Tower.

Having received a negative to their demand, the besiegers attempted to batter in the great gate, but a discharge of musketry killing some of their number they desisted. They shook the windows and doors to try and effect an entrance.

A line of sentries were posted in front of the castle with orders to shoot any one who appeared at the windows, but the deadly fire of the besieged killed them nearly all.

Seeing that their numbers were rapidly thinning they sought cover from the out-houses in the rear, and from there they carried on an ineffectual fusilade for some time.

Finding, however, this was of no avail they retreated to the river, crossing by the ford. A pike blade and some swords of this date were recently found in a pond which lay in their route.

The brave garrison had many killed and wounded, Mr. Bernard being among those who lost their lives.

The dead Irish were collected and covered with straw in a stable until the next day, when they were buried in a disused graveyard at Killountain.

Judge Bernard succeeded his father, having been born in the castle in 1663. He changed the name from Castle Mahon to Castle Barnard.

His son, “Squire Bernard,” did much for the neighbourhood until a dispute with the townspeople about trees caused him to go and live in England.

In 1760 a sad accident took place which led to the death of little Robert Bernard, one of the sons of the house. He had climbed to the top of King John’s Tower, and as the bats and swallows flew in and out he tried to strike them with his battledore, but overbalancing, he stepped back to recover himself and fell through the trapdoor which gives egress to the summit. He died of the injuries received.

Francis Bernard was created Earl of Bandon in 1800, and Castle Barnard is still the principal residence of the Earls of Bandon.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

G. Bennett, “History of Bandon.” C. Smith, “County and City of Cork.” Calendar of State Papers. Calendar of Carew MSS.

_CASTLE BORO_

Lord Carew’s demesne of about a thousand acres is situated in the townland of Ballyboro, six miles west-south-west of Enniscorthy, and is bisected by the River Boro. The ancient name for this stream was Bel-atha-Borumha, and was derived from the Borumha, or cow tribute, which the Kings of Leinster had to pay to the High Kings of Ireland.

To the south-east of Castle Boro mansion, on the other side of the river, is the ivy-clad ruin, formerly known as Ballyboro Castle. It now stands in the farmyard, and is 42 feet long by 27 feet wide when measured from the outside. Two gables are still to be seen, and the windows are built of brick.

Local tradition states that it was formerly the residence of Brien Boroimhe, but the site is all that could possibly have belonged to a dwelling of his.

About the year 1628 Robert Carew, younger son of Carew of Haccombe in Devonshire, obtained through his kinsman, Sir George Carew, afterwards Earl of Totnes, a grant of lands in the County Wexford, which had formerly belonged to the Desmonds. Charles II. confirmed the grant in 1663 to his son. This Carew is generally supposed to have built the now ruined castle, which was occupied by the family until near the close of the eighteenth century. By others, however, the date of architecture is considered to be that of the beginning of the seventeenth century, and the castle believed to have been the residence of “James Hoar of Bellaborow, constable of the Barony of Bantry” in 1608, who is mentioned thus in the Carew MSS.

When James II. was fleeing to Duncannon, after the battle of the Boyne, he stopped to water and rest his horses at the ford of Aughnacopple, near the castle. The Carew of that time sent provisions to the fugitives, and the pair of gold sleeve links given by the fallen monarch as a mark of his gratitude are still preserved as an heirloom at Castle Boro. There is some doubt as to whether they were presented at the river bank or sent later from Duncannon.

Towards the close of the eighteenth century the head of the family wished to have a more modern house than the old fortress, but not deeming it worth while to go to the expense unless he had a son to succeed him, he delayed the commencement of the work until the very day when his son and heir was born.

The insurgents of 1798 attacked the residence, and a picture hangs in the hall of Castle Boro which has holes in it that were made by the rebels’ pikes.

Mr. Robert Carew was raised to the peerage in 1834, and in 1840, during the absence of the family, the newly-erected house was burned down, the fire having originated in a chimney. The west wing containing the library was the only portion saved.

Building operations were at once commenced under the direction of Mr. Robertson. The present mansion is in Classic style, having a centre block four storeys in height with wings at either side of a storey less. The drawing-rooms are especially handsome apartments, and are being decorated by the present Lady Carew with embroidered panels of Early English design.

In the gardens are a number of trees which have been planted by distinguished visitors, amongst whom were the late Duke of Clarence, the present Prince of Wales, the Duke of Aosta, the Count of Turin, the Earl of Halsbury and the late Sir H. M. Stanley.

A very handsome granite gateway gives access to the grounds.

The present Lord Carew is the 3rd Baron.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

W. Flood, “History of Enniscorthy.” MS. Ordnance Survey of Ireland. Parliamentary Gazetteer. Joyce, “Irish Place Names.”

_CASTLE DONOVAN_

This stronghold is situated in a wild romantic district among the mountains, to the north of the village of Drimoleague in the eastern division of West Carbery, about seven miles east of Bantry, County Cork.

Above it rises the hill of Mulraugh-Nesha. The country round is destitute of trees, and from its elevated position the castle is visible from a wide area.

The fortress consists of a tall, square keep with crenelated battlements and defences projecting from the angles. It is built on a rock, the rough surface of which forms the floor of the lower room in the castle.

There seems to have been no attempt to make the ground even, as great indentations, nearly two feet in depth, extend the whole length of the apartment.

The first floor is supported by a vault, and this state apartment measures about 26 feet by 20. The windows and loops are exceedingly small, the former being surrounded by label mouldings well cut in the dark freestone.

A spiral stair leads to the hall above the vault, and this is open to the heavens, but the high-pitched gables of the roof still remain. Great cracks in the masonry run down the centre and through the south-west angle.

It belongs to the earliest type of castle which succeeded the peel tower. The outworks, of which little remain but the foundations, are situated close to the keep.

The O’Donovans were descended from a long line of Munster kings. Cahill, the son of Donovan, was killed in 1254, and from him the district round the stronghold took its name, and also the clan of which he was chief.

It is likely that he erected the fortress.

James I. granted the castle (then called Sowagh) to Donell O’Donovan, of Castle Donovan, Gent., and with it a large tract of country, part of which was created the manor of Castle Donovan, with 500 acres of demesne.

Donell O’Donovan died in 1639, and his son forfeited the estate in the rebellion of 1641.

Tradition states that the castle was reduced by Ireton during the Parliamentary wars.

Charles II. bestowed the lands of Castle Donovan by letters patent on Lieutenant Nathaniel Evanson in 1679.

There is a legend regarding a mysterious drip of water which apparently comes from the upper masonry of the tower, and which it is said will continue as long as there is an heir to the chieftainship of O’Donovan.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

J. Windele, “Notices of City of Cork.” Parliamentary Gazetteer. “Rides through the County Cork” (_Dublin Penny Journal_), 1828.

_CASTLE KEVIN, COUNTY CORK_

This name was formerly written Castle Kiffin, and the fortress is situated between Doneraile and the Blackwater in the County Cork.

The castle has been much altered and modernised since its first erection. It contains thirty-two rooms, though some of them are exceedingly small. There are 365 windows, one, therefore, for every day in the year. The hall of black and white marble is L shaped and much worn by age. From this a very handsome oak staircase leads to the first landing, which is lighted by a beautiful old stained-glass window upon which the Thornhill arms are emblazoned.

During repairs in 1810 a number of skeletons were discovered under the steps. They were supposed to be those of soldiers, and beside one a gold piece of James II. and a number of copper coins of various dates were found. These are now in the possession of Colonel Badham-Thornhill.

During a siege, of which the fortress stood many, the water supply was a serious inconvenience. Not only was the well some distance from the castle, but it was apt to run dry when largely drawn upon. It is situated in the limestone rock at a great depth, and when being cleaned in 1825 the key of the portcullis was found at the bottom and carefully preserved by E. Badham-Thornhill, who was then owner.

The castle originally belonged to the O’Keeffs, from which, no doubt, the name is derived. Their territory being seized, was given to the Anglo-Norman family of de Rupe, or Roche, and in 1583 David and Maurice Fitz John Roch are mentioned as of Castlekevin.

Cromwell’s troops besieged and took the castle for the Commonwealth, tradition stating that the soldiers placed the late owner’s head on a lance over the “Bell Gate,” near the present stables.

The castle was then granted to Sir Richard Thornhill, who also possessed considerable property in the neighbourhood by purchase, so that the estate was about 10,000 acres in extent in the counties of Cork and Limerick.

The Thornhills occupied the castle until 1853, when it was sold in the Encumbered Estates Court, and the building was purchased by Mr. E. Reeves.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

C. Smith, “County and City of Cork.” Fiants of Elizabeth. Colonel Badham-Thornhill MS.

_CASTLE KEVIN, COUNTY WICKLOW_

“The halls where mirth and minstrelsy Than Fertire’s winds rose louder, Were flung in masses lonely, And black with English powder.”

In 1216 King Henry III. granted the manor of Swords with increased privileges to Henry de Loundres, Archbishop of Dublin, on condition that he should build and maintain a castle on his manor of Castle Kevin. Nearly two centuries later, Swords was seized by the Commissioner of Forfeitures on the plea that this had not been done, but it was afterwards returned to the Archbishop of the time as having been unjustly taken.

The fortress was intended for protection in this direction against the invasions of the O’Byrnes and O’Tooles. The site was some three and a half miles north-east of Glendalough, the ancient cathedral city of that diocese. Its natural defences were the bog, on the edge of which it stood, and thick woods that stretched almost from Dublin to Glendalough. Quite close to it ran a stream, which joined the Avonmore about a quarter of a mile lower down, near the present village of Annamoe.

It appears to have been a square building, flanked by towers at each corner. The foundations, which still remain, measure some 120 feet each way. They are elevated about 20 feet, and are now covered with grass.

The castle was built of rubble stone and excellent mortar, which is shown by the huge blocks of the walls which still lie round the foundations.

The Archbishops held courts and exercised jurisdiction here through their officers, and had their own gallows.

In 1277-78 the Treasurer’s account for the year contains £60 to John de Saunford for the custody of the new castle of Mackinegan and Castle Keyvin. The stronghold was often used by the Archbishops as a hunting-lodge, the woods around being well stocked with deer. It was also strongly garrisoned.