Part 20

MacClancy (Cuellar calls him Manglana) decided to fly to the mountains with his people, most likely by a bridlepath still to be traced from the “cattle-booley.” It was two feet wide, and the paving was enclosed by a kerb. He asked Cuellar and eight other Spaniards what they wished to do. After a conference they offered to defend the castle against the Lord Deputy. MacClancy was delighted, and at once made all provision. They then retired to the castle, taking with them the church valuables, three or four boat-loads of stones, six muskets, six crossbows, and other arms.

Captain Cuellar describes the stronghold thus: “The castle is very strong, and very difficult to take if they do not (even though they should) attack it with artillery, for it is founded in a lake of very deep water which is more than a league wide at some parts, and three or four leagues long, and has an outlet to the sea; and, besides, with the rise of spring tides it is not possible to enter it, for which reason the castle could not be taken by water nor by the shore of the land that is nearest to it. Neither could injury be done it, because (for) a league round the town, which is established on the mainland, it is marshy, breast-deep, so that even the inhabitants (natives) could not get to it except by paths.”

As the Spanish captain never mentions the name of the fortress, its identification with Rossclogher has been called in question, chiefly because the measurements are much greater than those of Lough Melvin (a league equalling 3·66 miles), but all the distances in the narrative are greatly overstated. Again, Lough Melvin has not been open to the sea within the historic period. A map, however, of 1609 in the British Museum represents the river which drains it as being nearly as wide as the Erne, and we do not read that Cuellar personally explored its outlet.

In all other matters the castle accurately answers to his description, and no other building has ever been put forward as the probable scene of the siege.

When the Lord Deputy appeared upon the shore (with, Cuellar says, one thousand eight hundred men) he could not get nearer than a mile and a half on account of the marshy ground. From this it would seem that he arrived at the point of Rossfriar on the north-west shore of the lough. He then hanged two Spaniards as a warning, and demanded by a trumpeter the surrender of the castle, promising the garrison a free pass to Spain. This they pretended not to understand.

The siege lasted seventeen days, when a great snowstorm obliged the Deputy to return south.

Upon this episode the State Papers are silent; the Lord Deputy merely giving the following account of his northern expedition. “First, therefore, it may please your lordships, I undertook the journey the 4th November, and finished the same the 23rd of this instant, December, being seven weeks and one day, returning without loss of any one of Her Majesty’s army.”

When the English forces had retired MacClancy returned in great delight and fêted the Spaniards. He offered his sister to Cuellar in marriage, but this was declined. The chief decided to keep the foreigners as his guard, by force if necessary, but they hearing this left secretly. After much hardship Cuellar eventually crossed to Scotland from Dunluce, and from thence to Antwerp.

In 1590 MacClancy’s death is officially recorded as follows: “M’Glannaghe ran for a lough which was near, and tried to save himself by swimming, but a shot broke his arm, and a gallowglass brought him ashore. He was the best killed man in Connaught a long time. He was the most barbarous creature in Ireland, and had always 100 knaves about him. He would never come before any officer. His country extended from Grange beyond Sligo till you come to Ballyshannon. He was O’Rourke’s right hand. He had some 14 Spaniards, some of whom were taken alive.”

Thus in trying to reach Rossclogher fortress MacClancy lost his life, his head being exhibited in triumph.

The estates of the sept were forfeited in 1641, and the island fortress now belongs to St. George Robert Johnston, Esq., of Kinlough House, the village of Kinlough being near the ruins.

Upon approaching Lough Melvin from one direction at about a mile distant the castle of Rossclogher bears a most remarkable resemblance to a ship in full sail upon the lake.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

H. Allingham, “Captain Cuellar’s Adventures in Connaught and Ulster,” with Translation of Narrative, by R. Crawford. Donovan, “Annals of the Four Masters.” O’Reilly, “Remarks on Captain Cuellar’s Narrative,” in Proceedings of Royal Irish Academy.

_SHANE’S CASTLE_

“In th’ historic pages of Erin’s green isle How bright shines the name of old Phelim the brave, Who lived where the groves of Shane’s Castle now smile, And Neagh’s crystal waters the green meadows lave.” J. S. M. C.

The ancient name of this fortress was Edan-dubh-Cairrge, meaning “the front or brow of the black rock.”

It is situated near the village of Randalstown, about two miles and a quarter north-west of Antrim. The present demesne, which extends for two miles along the northern shore of Lough Neagh, is bisected by the river Main.

The castle has not been inhabited since it was burnt down on the 15th of May, 1816. A large addition was being erected at the time, and it as well as the older buildings were all consumed. Only the beautiful conservatory and the fortified terrace escaped uninjured. Several turrets and towers still stand to indicate its former extent and grandeur.

A passage about a hundred yards in length runs underground from the castle to the adjacent graveyard, and was the servants’ entrance to the mansion. Connected with this are great vaults which were built at the same time as the conservatory and the rooms near, so as to raise the addition above the level of the Lough, and give the building a better frontage.

An old safe is still to be seen in one of the castle walls, and not far from it a curious figure-head, supposed by

some to have been brought from the East and to belong to a much earlier date than the ruins among which it stands. Tradition states that when it falls the family of O’Neill will come to an end.

It is recorded that in 1490 Edan-dubh-Cairrge, the castle of Niale, the son of Con, son of Hugh Boy, was taken and demolished by Felim, grandson of Niale Boy. It is probable that the present ruins are the remains of a castle which was erected in the sixteenth century upon the site of an older fortress, though the exact date of building is uncertain.

Edenduffcarrick belonged to the O’Neills of Clandaboy, and a younger branch of the great Tyrone family.

They were descendants of Hugh O’Neill, surnamed _buide_ or _boy_--yellow-haired, from which fact the district got its name.

In Queen Elizabeth’s reign Sir Brian MacPhelim O’Neill usurped the O’Neill estates with the help of the English, but they were shortly afterwards confiscated and bestowed by the Crown on Sir Thomas Smith.

In 1573 there is a memorandum by Secretary Smith offering to give up to the Earl of Essex upon certain conditions “Belfast, Massareen, Castle Mowbray _alias_ Eden Doucarg (now Edenduffcarrick or Shane’s castle, in the county of Antrim) and Castle Toome.”

After the treacherous seizing and execution of Sir Brian in 1574 a fierce struggle for possession of Clandaboy began between his son Shane MacBrian and a cousin, Neal Oge. In 1583 Captain Thomas Norreys captured the castle of Edenduffcarrick from Hugh Oge and handed it over to Shane as Captain of Lower Clandaboy.

A writer about 1586, describing Antrim, states that Edenduffcarrig and Belfast were the only wardable castles at that time.

In 1588-89 Lower Clandaboy was divided between Shane M’Brian M’Felim O’Neill, and Neale M’Hue, son of Hue M’Felim. The latter was granted the castle with a fourth of the country and followers, but as he was unable to provide the pledges required for the safe delivery of the castle and the payment of rent, he was imprisoned in Dublin Castle until he could find them. In the meantime his men garrisoned Edenduffcarrick.

Shane M’Brian O’Neill endeavoured to get possession of North Clandaboy in 1591 for himself and his heirs, and the Government received warning that it would be best for them to keep Shane’s Castle in their own hands, especially as it could be used to guard the fisheries of Lough Neagh, where a “civil English plantation” might be formed.

The same year Shane and his cousin Neale agreed to submit to arbitration regarding the division of North Clandaboy. Commissioners were, therefore, appointed by the Lord Deputy, and Shane’s Castle was reserved to the Crown according to advice.

The Earl of Tyrone formed a camp near the castle in 1593-94, and the Sheriff of Antrim appealed to the Lord Deputy for a guard to be put in Edenduffcarrick, saying that otherwise the country was unprotected, and that it “is the only mark that these fellows shoot at.”

After this the castle seems to have been allowed to fall into decay, for in 1596 Mr. Francis Shane, discoursing about the rebellion in Ulster, states that upon the edge of Lough Neagh “standeth a ruinated pile called Edendowcarrick,” which being made wardable could be converted into a store for provisioning Blackwater and Coleraine in case of sea storms.

Later it was evidently taken possession of by Shane M’Brian O’Neill, who had joined with his great namesake and kinsman, the Earl of Tyrone, for in 1597 Sir John Chichester, with the help of Neale M’Haghe (the other claimant to Clandaboy) took the castle from him. It was a somewhat unexpected victory, as Sir John did not at first intend the capture. He had divided his forces into three companies of a hundred men each. One party he sent to seize some horses of the enemy, the second was detailed to harass the rebels, and the third, which he himself commanded, was intended to prevent a sally from the castle. The garrison did make an attempt to issue forth, and he presently came up “pell mell with them,” and entered the bawn.

After two assaults the English came so near that they set the building on fire. It was said to have contained large stores, and that its loss was a great bridle to the Earl of Tyrone.

After this the chieftains of both the Clandaboys laid down their arms and gave hostages.

The castle had not long been in Government hands when the warders, although well provisioned by the help of Shane M’Brian (now siding with the English), made a raid upon the country people, and carried off a number of horses.

Neill M’Hugh M’Phelim, having escaped from prison, took up the people’s cause and assaulted the castle. They broke the bawn and burned the door of the main keep, whereupon the garrison killed their prey in the cellar, and as it is reported, “by this wilful accident put the house in danger.”

A new door was ordered, and also a more plentiful stock of provisions for the garrison.

In 1598 Sir Hugh O’Neill resided at Edenduffcarrick, it having passed again out of the hands of the Government.

In 1607 King James I. finally settled the castle and estate upon the descendants of Shane MacBrian O’Neill. It is most likely that the present name of Shane’s Castle is derived from this man. Richard Dobbs uses this designation in 1683, so that the popular belief that the name was altered by French John who came into possession in 1716 is clearly erroneous. He was called “French” John because, being of a younger branch, he had made his own way in the world engaged in the wool trade abroad. When he came into possession of the estate he displayed in the castle hall the very wool-cards he had used in his poorer days to show he was not ashamed of his calling. It was he who built the family vault in the adjacent graveyard in 1722.

In 1798 the first Viscount O’Neill, who was then the family representative, rode into Antrim on the day of the battle of that town. He received a mortal wound from a pike in his side, and being conveyed by boat to Shane’s Castle, he lingered for a fortnight. It is supposed that it was at his wife’s instigation that he enlarged the castle demesne and removed the ancient village of Edenduffcarrick.

A most interesting note from Mrs. Siddon’s diary, mentioning her visit to the castle in 1783, is as follows:--

“When my Dublin engagement concluded I made a visit to Shane’s Castle, the magnificent residence of Mr. and Mrs. O’Neill. I have not words to describe the beauty and splendour of this enchanting place, which, I am sorry to say, has since been destroyed by a tremendous fire. Here were often assembled the talent, and rank, and beauty of Ireland. Among the persons of the Leinster family whom I met here was poor Lord Edward Fitzgerald, the most amiable, honourable, though misguided, youth I ever knew. The luxury of this establishment almost inspired the recollections of an Arabian Night’s entertainment. Six or eight carriages, with a numerous throng of lords and ladies on horseback, began the day by making excursions around this terrestrial paradise, returning home just in time to dress for dinner. The table was served with a profusion and elegance to which I have never seen anything comparable. The sideboards were decorated with adequate magnificence, on which appeared immense silver flagons containing claret. A fine band of musicians played during the whole of the repast. They were stationed in the corridors which led into a fine conservatory, where we plucked our dessert from numerous trees of the most exquisite fruits. The foot of the conservatory was washed by the waves of a superb lake, from which the cool and pleasant wind came to murmur in concert with the harmony from the corridor. The graces of the presiding genius, the lovely mistress of the mansion, seem to blend with the whole scene.”

The great fire already alluded to occurred in 1816, and is supposed to have originated in a chimney where jackdaws were building. It quickly spread to the drawing-room, and nothing was saved except the family papers and plate. A most valuable library and many pictures were destroyed.

The sky was crimson for miles round, and people flocked to all the adjacent hills to witness the magnificent sight.

The present family residence is about a quarter of a mile from the old castle. The owner, Lord O’Neill, is the 2nd Baron, the former title having become extinct in 1855.

“The Rockery,” formed from an ancient quarry and stocked with rare plants, is one of the attractions of the demesne.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

Calendar of State Papers. Calendar of Carew MSS. G. Hill, “Macdonnells of Antrim.” W. S. Smith, “Shane’s Castle.” Donovan, “Annals of the Four Masters.” Parliamentary Gazetteer. W. S. Smith, “Memories of ’98”; G. Hill, “Shane’s Castle”; “Origin and Characteristics of the Population in the Counties of Down and Antrim,” and Notes, all in _Ulster Journal of Archæology_.

_SWORDS CASTLE_

About seven miles from Dublin, on the chief highway to the North, is situated the town of Swords, Sword, Surd, or Swerdes, as it is variously termed in ancient manuscripts. From the earliest ages of Christianity the church founded by St. Columbkille, with its attendant offices and monastery, made the neighbourhood a powerful ecclesiastical centre; so that, when in later years the church lands of Swords became joined to the see of Dublin, they formed no inconsiderable part of the Archbishop’s revenue.

In the Bull of Pope Alexander III. in 1179 to St. Laurence O’Toole, Archbishop of Dublin, confirming his archiepiscopal see, Sword is placed second on the list of churches in importance.

Therefore it is not surprising that the Englishmen who succeeded O’Toole in the see of Dublin should have erected their country residence in a town, from the surrounding lands of which they derived so much of their income.

The site for the castle or palace was chosen on the east bank of Swords River, and the area covered by the buildings was more extensive than is usual for a Norman fortress, while the defences were somewhat less, as we hear no mention, nor see any remains, of the keep, which forms so universal a feature of the chief baronial strongholds.

Authorities place the date of building variously between 1184 and 1282, which gives a somewhat wide margin, but its erection is most generally assigned to John Comyn, the first English Archbishop of Dublin, who was elected at Evesham, 1181, and who was one of those to welcome Prince John at Waterford in 1185. An inquisition of 1265 finds that there was a constable of the castle in this Archbishop’s time.

The palace was built in castellated style, and the range of embattled walls flanked with towers is still complete. The warders’ walk is yet easy to trace. Over the gateway were the apartments for the guard, and just below is still visible the bakehouse chimney, of which mention will be made later.

Like so many of the castles of Leinster, Swords provided for years a convenient quarry for the neighbourhood, and what had once been corner stones of a palace went to support the thatched roofs of the surrounding cabins, so that few of the buildings which stood inside the battlements are now traceable.

In the line of walls is a large window which once occupied the gable end of what is likely to have been the great hall. The mullions of this window, which remained intact until recently, were remarkable for being of red sandstone, which is unknown in the country.

The situation of the chapel may still be discerned by the remnants of some of the stone carving which once adorned its sacred walls.

In 1192 Archbishop Comyn obtained a patent authorising him to hold an annual fair in his manor of Swords, and in 1387 this privilege was confirmed to Robert de Wikeford.

King Henry III. enlarged the possessions and added new privileges to the manor, which he granted to Henry de Loundres in 1216, on condition that he should build and maintain Castlekevin, near Glendalough, County Wicklow, to defend the pale in that quarter from the invasions of the great Irish families of O’Toole and O’Byrne.

We read later (1380) that Sir Nicholas Daggeworth seized the manor of Swords as Commissioner of Forfeitures, on the plea that the conditions above stated had not been complied with. He, however, afterwards confessed that the charge had not been proved, and therefore a writ of restitution was issued by the Treasurers and Barons of the Exchequer to Robert de Wykeford, Archbishop of Dublin.

The great prelates seem to have lived in almost royal state within their manor of Swords. They had their own seneschal, who was exempt from the authority of the sheriff of the county, and the law courts. The archbishops could try every case except the four pleas of the Crown, and their gallows was erected near the town on an eminence since known as Gallows Hill. Every writ issued from the civil courts had to be transferred to the prelates’ seneschal before it could be served.

The office of chief constable of the palace was a post of considerable importance, and survived the occupation of the castle for a considerable time. William Galrote held the position in 1220, Sampson de Crumba in 1240, and Thomas Fitzsimons in 1547.

In 1624 we read that Patrick Barnewell, of Grace Dieu, received pardon for alienation of certain interests, amongst which was the Constableship of Swords with ten acres in the Broad Meadow that belonged to the office.

It was most likely in connection with this post that the Lords of Kingsland were required to attend the Archbishop whenever he visited Swords, and to hold his stirrup as he mounted or dismounted, for which service they held lands to the value of some £300 a year.

It seems to be uncertain at what exact period the castle ceased to be used as a residence by the Archbishops, but in 1324 Alexander de Bicknor built the archiepiscopal palace of Tallaght, which was used as a country seat for the Archbishops for centuries, and only ceased to be considered as a palace in 1821.

It is most likely, therefore, that the invasion of Ireland by Edward Bruce, brother to the King of Scotland, rendered the position of Swords palace (which was not wholly built for defence) a somewhat dangerous one, as Bruce, having his headquarters at Dundalk, was in possession of the country almost up to the walls of Dublin.

In 1326 this same Alexander de Bicknor having displeased Edward II., and also being in arrears with his accounts as Lord Treasurer, the profits of his See were seized by the King to compensate for the deficiency, and in order to ascertain their real value inquisitions by jurors were held on the different manors.

The finding as regards the palace of Swords was as follows:--

“Who being sworn, say on oath, that there is in this place a hall, and the chamber adjoining said hall, the walls of which are of stone, crenelated after the manner of a castle, and covered with shingles.

“Further, there is a kitchen, together with a larder, the walls of which are of stone, roofed with shingles. And there is in the same place a chapel, the walls of which are of stone, roofed with shingles. Also there was in the same a chamber for friars, with a cloister, which is now prostrate. Also, there are in the same place a chamber, or apartment, for the constables by the gate, and four chambers for soldiers and warders, roofed with shingles, under which are a stable and bake-house.

“Also, there were here a house for a dairy, and a workshop, which are now prostrate. Also, there is on the premises in the haggard a shed made of planks, and thatched with straw. Also, a granary, built with timber and roofed with boards. Also, a byre, for the housing of farm horses and bullocks.

“The profits of all the above-recited premises, they return as of no value, because nothing is to be derived from them, either in the letting of the houses, or in any other way. And they need thorough repair, inasmuch as they are badly roofed.”

This gives some idea of the lost buildings, and also shows that even at this date the castle was beginning to decay.

Later the manor of Swords seems several times to have been granted to archbishops who wished during their lives to resign the arduous duties of the See. In 1484 we read that “Doctor Walton, Archbishop of Dublin, being blind and infirm, resigned his dignity, and reserved to himself for a maintenance the manor of Swords during his life, which reservation was confirmed to him by Act of Parliament during the following year.” And again, in 1562, it is recorded that, by Act of Parliament, John, late Archbishop of Dublin, was assured the manor of Swords for his life in consideration of surrendering the bishopric to Walter FitzSymons.

There is no evidence to show that these aged prelates ever resided in the castle, and as the following extract, written in 1583, records its state of ruin, it is most likely they were content with the revenues alone.

Sir Henry Sydney, Lord Deputy in Queen Elizabeth’s reign, when sending to Sir Francis Walsingham a summary of his services in Ireland, says: “I caused to plant and inhabit there about forty families of the reformed churches of the Low Countries, flying thence for religion’s sake, in one ruinous town called Surds (Swords). And truly (Sir) it would have done any man good to have seen how diligently they wrought, how they re-edified the quite spoiled old castle of the same town and repaired almost all the same, and how godly and cleanly they, their wives and children lived. They made diaper and ticks for beds, and other good stuff for man’s use, and excellent good leather of deer skins, goat and sheep fells, as is made at Southwark.”