Part 19

The territory formerly belonged to the O’Maddens, and was included in the grant to De Burgo 1226.

Soon after this the first castle was erected close to the River Shannon. The ruins were removed some years ago, but its position can still be traced.

The second fortress, which was an imposing castellated building of the Tudor period, was burnt in 1826. The chief apartments were the great hall, handsome state drawing-room, and library--a beautiful long room in the upper storey. They were all completely destroyed, only the walls being left.

Some of the out-offices were fitted up as a residence for the Dowager Countess of Clanricard shortly afterwards.

Since then the Earl of Clanricard has erected a magnificent modern residence in the demesne, but on a different site.

The manor passed, by the marriage of Elizabeth, daughter of William de Burgo, Earl of Ulster, to Lionel, Duke of Clarence, through whom it passed to the Mortimers, and later to the Earls of Clanricard.

In 1582 it was held by Ulick Burke, Earl of Clanricard, to whom Portumna and the earldom were confirmed, as his brother John disputed his right.

In 1608 it was granted to the Earl, with other houses, to be held by knight’s service _in capite_.

The Earl of Strafford held a council in the castle in 1634 to establish the King’s title in Connaught. The jury, however, negatived the matter, whereupon the Earl arrested them and the sheriff, and sent them prisoners to Dublin.

In 1641, Ulic, 5th Earl of Clanricard, was at Portumna upon the breaking out of hostilities. He fortified the castle and proceeded to Galway, of which city he was governor. He used every effort to maintain peace, and in 1650 was appointed Lord Deputy in place of Ormond. At this time he made Portumna his chief place of residence.

In 1659 General Ludlow laid siege to the fortress.

In the struggle between James and William it was garrisoned for James, but surrendered to Brigadier-General Eppinger, who, with one thousand two hundred horse and dragoons, arrived to reduce it.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

Hardiman, “History of Galway.” State Papers. Lewis, “Topographical Dictionary of Ireland.” Parliamentary Gazetteer. Carew MSS. MS. Ordnance Survey.

_ROSCOMMON CASTLE_

In the Barony of South Ballintobber, County Roscommon, seventy-five miles west-by-north of Dublin, stands the now ruined fortress of Roscommon. Joyce says the name signifies “Coman’s wood,” from St. Comas, who founded a monastery there about the year 746, but O’Donovan traces its derivation from “crooked stick.”

The plan of the castle consists of a quadrangular space enclosed by curtain walls flanked at the angles by towers rounded on the outside. The whole measures about 223 feet in length and 173 in breadth. On the east side the entrance, under a pointed arch, was also protected by two towers, which were connected by a rectangular building inside that probably contained the state rooms.

The lower storeys of the towers were vaulted, although some of them are now broken. The upper floors have larger windows, and also the remains of fireplaces. Most of the windows contain four lights, but some have Elizabethan mullions.

The north-west tower has a winding stair, which leads to the top of the curtain wall. On the western side of the stronghold is a small rectangular tower, which contained a little entrance.

There is now no trace of the moat, but a few remains of earth outworks are visible.

On the east is a long enclosure surrounded by walls and flanked by bastions, which is known as the orchard, although at present it contains no trees.

The north and south walls of the castle, which had been broken down, have been again raised for farming purposes. The inside of the walls exhibit traces of blasting. The castle was built of blue limestone, and much of the stone has been used elsewhere.

Weld considers it likely that the fortress was built from an English plan, and remarks on the apparent absence of patching, it all seeming to date from the same period.

Robert d’Ufford, Lord Justice of Ireland, began to erect the castle in 1268, while Hugh, King of Connaught, was too ill to prevent such encroachment on his territory. Some authorities state a fortress existed here prior to this time. During 1270-72 there are numerous accounts of payments for building and fortifying the stronghold.

In 1275-76 is an entry of payment to Brother Maurice, Bishop of Elphin, for the site that had been used, and which appears to have been Church property.

The castle is said to have been razed by O’Conor in 1272, but the word “broken” used in the Book of Howth seems to be nearer the truth, as four years later the Irish again seized it by scaling ladders and overthrew the English garrison.

In Weld’s Statistical Survey he gives an amusing account of the contradictions which obscure the early history of the stronghold, and from which it appears impossible to gather the true facts at this distant period.

In 1277 Sir Robert d’Ufford was again Lord Juctice, and with Thomas de Clare, Maurice Fitz-Maurice and all their forces was hemmed in by the Irish in the Slievebawn Mountains. They were only released on the condition that Roscommon Castle was surrendered to the O’Conors.

It is also chronicled that Hugh O’Conor destroyed it in this year and that it was rebuilt by Maurice Fitz-Maurice.

At any rate it seems again to have been in English possession in 1282-83, as there are entries regarding payment for its fortifications, and a grant to the Prior and Convent of St. Coman of a right to water their animals for ever at the lake under the castle. This sheet of water, which was called Loch-na-nean, or “the lake of birds,” has now entirely disappeared.

The names of numerous constables of the castle are mentioned in the State Documents.

In 1290 the castle was garrisoned by Welshmen, and the townspeople were in great distress because of the constables and bailiffs preying upon them. The King issued an order that nothing must be taken without consent and payment.

There was a long trial in 1292 of William de Prene, a carpenter in charge of works at Roscommon Castle, who was accused of various frauds in connection with his contract.

A very interesting account of repairs is recorded in 1304 which gives a fair idea of the extent of the fortress. An artilleryman was paid for repairing war engines, and the well was enclosed by a wall 3 feet thick. It was 5 feet across and 32 feet deep, with a wooden cover. Three drawbridges and two portcullisses are also mentioned. The postern was closed with masonry 7 feet thick. The step of the hall repaired, and the tower near it vaulted with two arches. Also St. Bridget’s well was drained into the lake.

Somewhere about this time Felim O’Conor is said to have laid low the castle, while in 1341 his son Hugh was taken prisoner by the King of Connaught and imprisoned in the stronghold, but was released for a ransom the following year.

Roderic O’Conor occupied the castle in 1375.

While in possession of the O’Conors it was a constant source of dispute between O’Conor Don and O’Conor Roe. In 1409, being in the former’s possession, it was besieged by the latter, but the garrison was relieved by Brian O’Conor Sligo, who managed to get provisions into the fortress.

Rory O’Conor died there in 1453. Tadhg O’Conor was treacherously killed by his own people in 1476, and they took the castle of Roscommon, but did not keep it long.

In 1499 the Earl of Kildare led his forces into Connaught, dislodged O’Conor Roe and installed O’Conor Don. In 1512 the Earl of Kildare again took the fortress, and this time he garrisoned it with his own warders. It, however, immediately reverted to the O’Conors, and remained with them until 1566, when it was taken for Queen Elizabeth.

It had been granted to M’William Bourke in 1544, but as he would have had to drive out the occupiers, it is not to be wondered at that he never took possession.

It was restored by the O’Conor Don, and Sir Thomas L’Estrange made constable in 1569. The O’Conor Roe, having a spite against the constable, attacked and burned the castle in 1573, and L’Estrange claimed compensation to the amount of £1,000.

Sir Henry Sydney lodged a night in the castle in 1576, and complained of having no cheer. The O’Conor Don visited him at this time.

Sir Nicholas Maltbie, to whom the castle was leased in 1577, asked to be made Seneschal of Roscommon in 1580 as compensation for rebuilding the fortress.

Captain Brabazon, Governor of Connaught, summoned a meeting of the chiefs in the castle in 1582. It was held in the “Tower of the Narrow Passages,” and the joistings giving way the whole meeting, including the Governor, was precipitated to the bottom. Chief O’Flanagan died from the fall.

After this the English constable was murdered, and Sir Henry Sydney left a garrison in the castle.

Sir Nicholas Malbie died in 1584, and the castle remained in his family’s possession for some years afterwards. In 1609 Lady Sydley, widow of Henry Malby, Esq., asked allowance for the repairs of the castles of Roscommon and Longford, both of which she rented from the Crown. Roscommon had been ruined by various garrisons which had been placed there by Sir John Norris and others.

One of the charges against the northern Earls was their intention to seize Roscommon Castle amongst others.

The garrison made a brave defence against the Irish in 1642. The castle was chiefly defended by Scotch warders. It is quaintly noted that at the beginning of these “commotions” it had belonged to Lord Grandesson.

Three years later General Preston arrived and laid siege to it, opening fire on both town and castle.

On the ninth day of the siege the garrison offered to make honourable terms, which were accepted. The same day the besieging party had a sharp encounter with a relieving force, who were, however, defeated, and the castle surrendered. Captain Leicester was left in command.

It remained in the possession of the Irish forces until 1652, when it was delivered on articles to Commissary-General Reynolds, of the Parliamentary troops, by Captain Daly.

It is probable that it was demolished at this time. Tradition states it was burned by fugitive Irish after the battle of Aughrim, and some blackened joists are pointed out in corroboration.

It is now leased to a farmer by the Earl of Essex.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

Weld, “Statistical Survey of County Roscommon.” O’Conor Don, “O’Conors of Connaught.” Meehan, “Irish Franciscan Monasteries.” Joyce, “Irish Names of Places.” State Documents. State Papers. Carew MSS., including Hook of Howth. Parliamentary Gazetteer. MS. Ordnance Survey. Murphy, “The Castle of Roscommon,” in _Journal of Royal Society of Antiquaries, Ireland_.

_ROSS CASTLE_

“Its embers smouldering here and there, Unfed, the civil war-flame dies; But still defiant on the air, O’er Rosse the green flag proudly flies.

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“‘Till Birnam wood meets Dunsinane,’ Macbeth before no foe shall quail, And Rosse may all assaults disdain, ’Till on Lough Lein strange ship shall sail.’” A. B. ROWAN.

This castle is situated on what is now known as the Island of Ross, on the east shore of Lough Lene, or the Lower Lake of Killarney, about a mile and three-quarters south of the town.

The island has been artificially formed by cutting across the peninsula or _ros_ on which the fortress is built and from which it takes its name.

The channel, which is flooded by the waters of the lake, is crossed by a bridge, although it is usually dry during the summer months.

This bridge was formerly protected by a guard house and gates, which were closed every night, sentinels being posted at the entrance when the castle was garrisoned in later times.

The present ruins consist of a keep, with the remains of the surrounding bawn wall, which was flanked by semicircular towers at the corners. A spiral stone stair leads to the top of the keep, with doorways opening at the various floors.

The fortress is based on a limestone rock, and sustained on the land side by a buttress of masonry.

The peninsula contains 158 acres, and copper mines were opened on it in 1804, which were worked for four years, in which time £80,000 worth of ore was extracted. Water getting in stopped further work. It was clearly proved that the mines had been worked many centuries before, and a number of stone implements, locally called “Danes’ hammers,” have been found on the island.

The castle is supposed to have been built towards the close of the fourteenth century by the family of O’Donoghue-Ross, who added the appellation of their home to distinguish them from the family of O’Donoghue-More.

A modern barrack capable of holding some two hundred men and officers was erected against the keep, but when it ceased to be used Lord Kenmare had the unsightly erection removed.

There is a legend regarding a great and wise Prince O’Donoghue who possessed the secret of eternal youth, and under whose rule the land prospered greatly. It is related how that during a splendid feast at Ross Castle he rose up amongst the company and made a prophetic oration, recounting accurately all that the future years would bring. In the midst of speaking he walked over to a window (which is still shown) and through it he passed out over the lake. Upon nearing the centre he turned round and waved his hand in farewell to those behind, and, the waters opening, he disappeared beneath them.

On May morning he is said to rise from his watery grave and ride over the lake on a white steed, surrounded by beautiful women and youths. His appearance is looked upon as a sign of a bountiful harvest.

It is also related how a young maiden imagining herself in love with the phantom prince, cast herself into the lake on a May morning and was drowned.

The O’Donoghues were succeeded at Ross by the M’Carthy Mores, through whom the castle passed in 1588 to Sir Valentine Browne, ancestor to the present house of Kenmare.

In 1651 Lord Muskerry was guardian to his nephew Sir Valentine Browne, who was then a minor of about twelve years old. Hence it was that after his defeat by the Parliamentary forces at Knockniclashy on the 5th of July he retired with his army, numbering some one thousand five hundred men, to Ross.

Ludlow, accompanied by Lord Broghill and Sir Hardress Waller, followed with four thousand horse and two thousand foot.

Lord Muskerry was the last Royalist commander in arms, and his submission was a matter of great moment.

Ludlow reports that the castle was only accessible by the causeway which the besieged had fortified, being otherwise surrounded by water and bog.

Finding that this made the reduction of the fortress a matter of difficulty, and probably hearing of the tradition which stated Ross Castle could not fall until a ship should sail on the lake, Ludlow asked for a small fleet of boats to be prepared for transport at Kinsale.

In the meantime he found that the besieged were obtaining supplies through the thick woods surrounding the island. A force of two thousand foot were, therefore, despatched to clear the thickets. Some of the enemy were killed, some taken prisoners, and the rest saved themselves “by their good footmanship.”

The rest of Ludlow’s forces were employed in fortifying the peninsular so that a few men could keep the besieged in, while a large company was despatched to Killorgan, on Castlemain Bay, to receive the boats and supplies.

The preparation for the expedition was undertaken by the Rev. Dr. Jones, and the command was given to Captain Chudleigh.

The vessels were sent in pieces, so that the workmen who accompanied them could put them together in a few days. Two pinnaces carrying ordnance, and capable of holding fifty (or Ludlow says a hundred and fifty) men, were forwarded so as to be ready for use in two days. Also five or six boats to hold fifty men each, and material to make more.

Great has been the controversy as to what route was followed in conveying these vessels to Killarney. The River Laune, which drains the lakes, is not navigable above the place where Ludlow’s force was to receive the goods.

Tradition asserts that they were conveyed by the mountain road, and in Ware’s Annals it is recorded that a ship was “carried over the mountains.” On the other hand, Smith distinctly says they were “brought up by the River Lane, by strength of men’s hands.” He also relates how a recent sexton of Swords, called Hopkins (who had died at the age of 115), had been one of those who “assisted in drawing the above-mentioned vessel into the lake.” It is, therefore, likely that Smith’s informant on the matter had received the correct impression from an eye witness.

On Captain Chudleigh’s tomb at St. Multon’s, Kinsale, the fact is recorded of his having constructed a ship to sail on land for the reduction of Ross.

Some naval men are said to have drawn a vessel up the Laune in later years.

It is on the whole most likely that the hulls of the pinnaces were brought up by the river bed, while the lighter craft were conveyed by road. At any rate the transport and preparation occupied only the short period of four days, at the end of which time the terrified garrison perceived a warship being rowed upon the lake.

It is not unlikely that pressure was put on Lord Muskerry by his superstitious garrison, for no sooner had the vessel appeared than he notified to Ludlow that he was willing to treat.

Commissioners were appointed on both sides, and after a fortnight spent in debating the terms the treaty of Ross was signed. Lord Muskerry’s son and Sir Daniel O’Brien were delivered as hostages.

Fair terms were granted to the Royalist Army, and five thousand horse and foot laid down their arms.

For a long time Ross Castle gave rank and emolument to a governor. One of these owed his position to the confusion of names between New Ross, County Wexford, and the Ross of Killarney, for having rendered valuable service at the former during the rebellion of 1798, the governorship of the latter becoming vacant he was at once appointed.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

M. F. Cusack, “History of Kerry.” I. Weld, “Illustrations of Killarney.” J. Savage, “Picturesque Ireland.” C. Smith, “State of County Kerry.” J. Cook, “Murray’s Handbook for Ireland.” Mr. and Mrs. Hall, “Ireland.” Parliamentary Gazetteer. Proceedings of Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland. J. Prendergast, “Surrender of Ross Castle”; A. B. Rowan, Notes on same, _Journal of Kilkenny Archæological Society_.

_ROSSCLOGHER CASTLE_

The shores of Lough Melvin comprise part of Leitrim, Fermanagh and Donegal. The lake is about six miles long and a mile and a half at its greatest width. The castle of Rossclogher is situated on an artificial island to the south, near the Leitrim shore, and it gives its name to the Barony of Rossclogher in that county.

The Four Masters record the miraculous formation of the lake in 4694 B.C., while during the preparation of the grave of Melghe Molbhthach the waters gushed forth. He had been King of Ireland for fourteen years and was killed in battle. The lake was then called Lough Melghe, from which comes the modern Melvin.

The castle belonged to the M’Clancys, who were chiefs of Dartraigh in 1241 according to the Irish annals. They were a subordinate sept to the O’Rourkes and the name is variously spelt Glannaghie, M’Glannough, M’Glanna, M’Glanathie, M’Glanchie, Maglanshie, &c.

The lake fortress of Rossclogher was built by one of this family before the reign of Henry VIII., but the exact date is unknown.

It is interesting to note that the island next it, to the east, is called Inisheher (Inis Siar), meaning western island, having evidently received its name long before the foundations of the castle were laid, which at the present time form the most western land in the lake.

The structure upon which the fortress is built is like that of the Hag’s Castle in Lough Mask, and Cloughoghter Castle in Cavan. It consists of a foundation of heavy stones laid in the lake and filled in with smaller stones and earth so as to form an island.

The castle consists of a circular tower surrounded by a wall about five feet in height. It is built of freestone taken from the mainland near, cemented together with lime and coarse gravel. The walls, which are very thick, were coated outside with rough cast, which is unusual in the ancient buildings of the neighbourhood. On the side nearest the land are the ruins of a bastion with holes for musketry. The water is very deep between the fortress and the land, which is about 100 yards distant.

On the mainland opposite the stronghold are the remains of earthworks which would seem to have been formed by some attacking party possessing military skill. On a hill above this is situated the ancient “cattle-booley” of the MacClancy clan. It is a circular enclosure of earth, faced with stone, and is about 220 feet in circumference.

The ruins of a church are also on the mainland, within hailing distance of the castle.

The Four Masters record a night attack made by the O’Rourks in 1421, by which they took MacClancy Oge prisoner, and became possessed of “Lough Melvin and its castle.” The attack, however, is said to have been made on the island of Inisheen, in consequence of the guards of the lake giving up the boats to the attackers. It was on this island the MacClancy’s wooden crannog was situated, and its plundering again in 1455 by Maguire is recorded.

In 1588 three ships belonging to the Spanish Armada were wrecked on Streedagh Strand.

In one of these was Captain Cuellar, whose graphic narrative of his adventures in Ireland, when he had escaped with his life from the sea, have been published of recent years.

After various wanderings, sufferings and ill-treatment in the neighbourhood, he met a priest who directed him, in Latin, to a castle six leagues off. “It was very strong, and belonged to a savage gentleman, a very brave soldier and great enemy of the Oueen of England and of her affairs, a man who had never cared to obey her or pay tribute, attending only to his mountains, which made it strong.”

On the road he fell in with a blacksmith who forced him to work at his forge until the same clergyman, passing that way, promised to ask the chief to send an escort for him.

The following day MacClancy despatched four of his own people and a Spanish soldier to fetch him. He states they were much grieved at his sore state and assisted him in every way, and he adds: “I remained there three months, acting as a real savage like themselves.”

He describes his hostess as “beautiful in the extreme,” and very kind to him. One day while sitting with her and some of her women friends he began to tell their fortunes by palmistry, and “to say to them a hundred thousand absurdities.” Soon this got abroad, with the result that hundreds of people flocked to him to have their hands told. At length he said he would have to leave, and then MacClancy ordered that no one should molest him in future.

While Captain Cuellar was thus spending his time at Lough Melvin, news arrived that the Lord Deputy, Fitzwilliam, had marched from Dublin with a great force, and was hanging all the Spaniards he could find and punishing those who had succoured them.