Part 15

Soon after the castle was reduced by the Royalists, and in the investigation which followed much credit was taken from the fact that no plundering was allowed. It was stated that such forbearance was wonderful in the face of great provocation, inasmuch as the very day the castle was taken part of Colonel Mark Talbot’s wig was shot off by a bullet from the fortress.

The celebrated United Irishman, Archibald Hamilton Rowan, owned and lived in the castle. He was secretary of the Dublin Society of United Irishmen in 1791, and in 1794 he was sentenced to two years’ imprisonment for seditious libel.

The embroidered lavender dress coat, which he wore at his presentation to Marie Antoinette in 1781 or 1782, when in attendance on the Duchess of Manchester, is still preserved as an heirloom in the castle. A pair of pistols presented to Captain Hamilton, R.N., C.B., after the battle of Navarino, by the French Admiral De Rigny, for his gallant services to the French squadron, are also to be seen at Killyleagh.

In 1842 Captain Archibald Rowan Hamilton married Miss Caldwell, of Cheltenham, and seven years later they began to restore the castle.

In 1862 the marriage of the late Lord Dufferin and Clandeboye, with Hariot Georgina, eldest daughter of the late Captain Archibald Rowan Hamilton, 5th Dragoon Guards, was celebrated in the evening of October 23rd, in the drawing-room of the castle.

When the present owner of the castle, Colonel Gawen Rowan Hamilton, came of age in 1864, Lord Dufferin handed him the keys of the gate-tower, to which reference has already been made, saying, “The time is now come for me to hand over to you this gate-house, a gift which I had originally destined for your father, but which, with equal pleasure, I now make to you. I trust that you and your descendants may long continue to enjoy it.”

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

Lowry, “The Hamilton Manuscripts.” Knox, “History of County of Down.” Praeger, “Official Guide to County Down.” S. M. S., “Killyleagh Castle, County of Down,” in _Dublin Penny Journal_. Hanna, “The Break of Killyleagh,” in _Ulster Journal of Archæology_. Newspaper Cuttings lent by Mrs. Rowan Hamilton.

_KING JOHN’S CASTLE, CARLINGFORD_

This is one of the few names in Ireland which clearly show a Danish influence. The Irish designation was Cairlinn, and the present name simply means the “_fiord_ of Cairlinn,” or Carlingford.

It is situated in the County of Louth, on the southern shore of the bay at the foot of the Mourne Mountains, about eleven miles east-north-east of Dundalk.

It was a most important town of the Pale, and at one time nearly every building of any size was of a fortified type. There are still to be seen the remains of three strongholds called at the present time King John’s Castle, Taffe’s Castle, and Lee’s Castle.

King John’s Castle is traditionally supposed to have been erected by that monarch’s orders in 1210 to protect the mountain pass of Goulin. We know that King John was at “Kerlingford,” but Grose considers that it is more likely the fortress was built by De Lacy or De Courcy.

It is situated on a rocky promontory which projects into the sea, and having been built in accordance with the natural formation of the rock is triangular in shape. It is divided in the centre by a “cross wall” nearly 12 feet thick. On the southern side the divisions of apartments are still to be seen, and there are also the remains of galleries with recesses for archers. The walls are about 11 feet in thickness, and on the sea side there is a small underground passage some 20 feet in length.

The chief entrance from the water was protected by a

platform or battery, which also commanded the harbour. It is said the promontory once extended further into the sea, and being covered with soft grass was called the “Green Quay.”

In 1215 the King commanded Roger Pipard to deliver up the castle to any one the Archbishop of Dublin appointed to receive it. Richard de Burgh was ordered to give up the fortress to Geoffrey de Mariscis in 1216 or 1217, but this order was immediately followed by a similar one to William de Lacy, who had evidently taken the King’s Castle at Carlingford.

In 1388 Stephen Gernon, the constable of the time, was licensed by the King to take corn tithes in the lordship of Cooley to supply the castles of Carlingford and Greencastle. Five years later Esmond de Loundres was appointed Warden of Carlingford, Greencastle, and Coly, with the profits due to the office. The O’Neill of that day so pillaged the country round that De Loundres was unable even to meet his expenses, and he petitioned that, the seignory being laid waste, he might be either relieved of office or properly supplied with means to meet the charges attached to it. Whereupon an order to provision the castles under his command was issued.

Fishing rights seem to have been attached to the castle in 1425, and more than a hundred years later they still formed a Government revenue. In 1535 the Treasurer went to Carlingford to inspect the King’s castle. He reported that it and Greencastle with the country round had been almost destroyed, and that if the war was to continue English workmen would have to be sent over to put the castle in repair. He suggested that the expenses should be defrayed by the fishing dues.

This does not seem to have been done, for in 1549 both castles were in a dilapidated condition. Three years later Sir Nicholas Bagenall was granted “the Manor of Carlingford and an old castle there, and the whole demesne and manor of Mourne and Greencastle, the castle and demesne of the Black Friars in Carlingford.” Ten years later it was still in his hands.

In 1596 the Earl of Tyrone, after having pretended to submit to the Government, made an incursion into the Pale. It seems that his foremost troops were commanded by his son-in-law, Henry Oge, who endeavoured to surprise the castle at Carlingford. This he was unable to accomplish, but, “missing of his principal purpose, there were carried away as prisoners, in lamentable manner, two gentlewomen, daughters of Captain Henshaw, the one married and the other a maid.”

The Earl, who was following, had intended to reinforce the troops after the seizing of the town and fortress, but the failure of the enterprise prevented his doing so. He acknowledged having carried off the ladies from the castle “in time of peace,” and refused to return them until O’Hanlon’s son was liberated in exchange.

Marmaduke Whitechurch was constable of Carlingford in 1610, and had six warders under his command.

In 1641 “Sir Con Maginse tooke the forte and castle of the Neurie and Carlingfoorde.”

The next year it was captured by a ruse graphically described as follows: “5th of May. Newes came from Dundalk to the Lords Justices by Captaine Cadogan (who came thence through Maday with ten horse-men only) that the Newry was not only retaken by the Lord Conway and Munroe, the Scots commander, from the rebels, but also that the towne and castle of Carlingford were taken by a ship that came from Knockfergus. Their policy was to put up the Spanish colours, which the rebels discerning, sent a fisher-boat, with ten or twelve of their commanders, to goe aboard the ship, supposing that some ammunition was come unto them; but the captaine of the ships, instead of shewing them any such commodities, clapt them up under decks, and so landing his musketiers, they took the towne, which they of the castle soone perceiving, fled away, and left both unto our forces.”

In 1648 Lord Inchiquin marched on Carlingford after capturing Dundalk, and seems to have had little difficulty in getting possession of the town and fortress. The following year Colonel Venables appeared before the walls with Parliamentary forces. Upon his making preparation for the landing of cannon the town and castles were surrendered. In a letter to Oliver Cromwell he speaks with great praise of Captain Ferns, who “came to the harbour’s mouth with his fregot, and upon a signal agreed between us, came gallantly in under fire,” although his mainmast was split by a shot from the castle. He captured a small Wexford vessel then in the bay.

Carlingford was no mean prize, as it formed the chief storehouse of their opponents’ arms in Ulster.

The three castles and the sea-fort contained in all seven pieces of ordnance, nearly 40 barrels of powder and the same of small shot, over a thousand muskets, and 480 pikes.

They did not find much provision in the town. The next day Newry surrendered.

The fortress must have been subjected to bombardment at some time, as cannon-balls have been found among the ruins.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

Murphy, “Cromwell in Ireland.” Grose, “The Antiquities of Ireland.” Gilbert, “Affairs in Ireland, 1641-1652.” Graves, “King’s Council in Ireland.” Joyce, “Irish Names of Places.” Parliamentary Gazetteer. Calendar of Carew MSS. State Documents. State Papers. Reeves, “Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Down, &c.” D., “Carlingford,” in _Dublin Penny Journal_.

_KING JOHNS CASTLE, LIMERICK_

Limerick City is situated on the Shannon, ninety-four miles south-west by west of Dublin. The name is a corruption of Luimneach, signifying “barren spot of land.”

King John’s Castle is one of the finest examples of Norman military architecture in the country. It was erected to guard Thomond Bridge, and was the citadel of the English town of Limerick.

The curtain wall by the river is about 200 feet long, and is flanked at both ends by round towers, each having a diameter of 50 feet, and with walls 10 feet thick. A third tower protects the north-east angle, while the corner towards the town had a square platform raised to the level of the battlements and capable of mounting five or six cannon. In the lower part of this structure was the sally port of the fortress.

The modern entrance is in Nicholas Street, but the former gate led into Castle Street, and was protected by a drawbridge. It was exceedingly narrow, and flanked by two massive towers, one circular and the other semicircular. The arms of the city surmount the gate. A wet ditch surrounded the castle, and was supplied with water from the Shannon.

The oldest part of the structure is the tower nearest the bridge, which shows marks of bombardment.

The dilapidations caused by the guns have been

renovated with red brick, which was a happy idea of the contractor so as to preserve the old war marks.

The ancient battlements were not removed until the close of the eighteenth century, up to which time they were a favourite city promenade.

The castle, as its name indicates, was constructed at the command of King John, and the builders were ruthlessly encroaching on church land until the bishop remonstrated with the King, who issued a proclamation in 1207, ordering that the work should cease until his return, which was in 1210. He furnished the stronghold with every requisite of defence, and appointed a constable and chaplain.

There was a long uninterrupted line of constables from 1216, when Godfrey de Rupe, or Roche, was appointed, until the office was prospectively abolished by Act of Parliament in 1809 to cease with the life of the constable of that date, the Right Hon. Colonel Vereker, afterwards Viscount Gort, who died in 1842.

The chaplaincy was also an office of importance.

In 1217 Reginal de Breouse received the custody of the castle and city for a stated period of years, and in 1226 it was the only castle in Ireland which was not fortified against the King, Richard de Burgh holding it for him.

Twenty pounds were granted to Thomas de Winchester in 1326 to repair the walls, which were much decayed; and six years later the followers of the Desmonds, who were prisoners in the fortress, took possession of it, after killing the constable. The citizens soon recovered possession and put all the occupiers to death.

The Earl of Desmond was made constable for life in 1423, with leave to discharge the duty by deputy. He was granted £10 and some fishing dues to repair the building as “the greater part of it had fallen to the ground.”

We learn from the State Papers that, Mr. Zouche having liberated O’Sullivan Beare, who had been captive at Limerick in 1582, the castle no longer required a ward. But the following year it is stated that John Sheriff having let Patrick Fitzmaurice and his brother out of the castle cost the Queen £20,000.

Three years later the fortress was occupied only by a constable and porter, and was in much need of repair and a garrison.

Sir George Carew received an order to repair the building and provide a ward in 1600, so that it would be a fit residence for the President. He reported that unless part of the town were removed it was impossible to make the fortress really strong, and so he was merely able to add some storehouses, which he regretted, “for that this insolent town has need of a straight curb.”

The death of the President prevented the intended repairs being carried out, and two or three hundred pounds were needed shortly after to roof the towers and the Great Hall, which had been begun, so that the assizes might be held in it. The arms were being much injured through the stronghold not being weather-proof.

In 1602 Father Archer informed the Spaniards of a way they could surprise the castle, he having learned it in Limerick during the previous rebellion.

The plan consisted of two or three Irish galleys coming up the river at night with the tide, and carrying about three hundred men, who would at once force the northern gate by breaking the wooden door with a “pittarr,” as no watch was kept there. The castle once in their hands, attacks could be made from all the other sides of the town.

King James I. granted a charter to the city of Limerick in 1609, from which the castle is exempted.

In 1608 it was stated that a cellar existed under the stronghold, which could be entered from the town without observation. The following year great dilapidations are reported by Sir Josias Bodley. He said that the round towers near the river were so undermined by the water that a cart might pass below their foundations. He repaired the walls and towers, and built the square platform for cannon on the town side. He surrounded the whole with a moat and erected the drawbridge. A constable’s house was still needed.

Repairs were again required in 1618 and 1624.

Captain George Courtenay with two hundred men maintained a most gallant siege in 1642. Though short of provisions, and with a garrison who were not all regulars, he managed to keep the Irish forces at bay for a considerable time.

The besiegers threw a great boom across the Shannon, formed of aspen trees fastened together with iron links, so as to prevent Sir Henry Stradling provisioning the castle by the water gate.

A steady fire from the fortress delayed the work for some days, but the boom was eventually fixed and the remains of it could be seen at low water so late as 1787.

The castle was next bombarded from the cathedral, but still the brave defenders held out. Then mines were begun in three places, the roofs being propped with dry timber smeared with tar. When completed this was ignited and the cavern falling made a large breach in the wall of the castle.

Seeing defence was no longer possible Captain Courtenay capitulated on the 21st of June, obtaining honourable terms for himself and the garrison. Lord Muskerry took possession the next day.

The captured cannon were used to reduce the neighbouring castles. It is said that the great gun which was mounted on the platform next the town took 35 yoke of oxen to draw it.

Ireton arrived at Limerick in 1651, and began to bombard the castle from the foot of Thomond Bridge. As soon as a breach was effected twenty dragoons, in complete armour, led by Captain Hackett, rushed in, followed by infantry. The Irish fled across the bridge into the further town, breaking two of the arches to prevent pursuit. Barrels of gunpowder were found in the vaults of the castle with lighted matches ready to ignite them.

It seems from the following inscription which was inserted in the south-west tower near the platform that repairs were carried out after these sieges: “Contrived by Lef. Vanderstam, General of their Majesties’ Ordnance, Anno 1691-2.”

In 1787 infantry barracks for about four hundred men were erected within the old walls.

The castle is now used as a Government ordnance store.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

M. Lenihan, “Limerick: Its History and Antiquities.” J. Ferrar, “History of Limerick.” J. Dowd, “Limerick and its Sieges.” FitzGerald and M’Gregor, “History of Limerick.” Proceedings of Kilkenny Archæological Society. Joyce, “Irish Place Names.” Parliamentary Gazetteer. State Papers. Carew MSS., with Book of Howth. State Documents.

_LEA CASTLE_

This castle is situated on the banks of the Barrow in the north-east corner of the Barony of Pornahinch, in the Queen’s County.

The name is sometimes spelt Ley or Leagh, and is said to signify “grey” or “grey land,” though a legend traces its origin to the name of a great chieftainess who lived, and was treacherously slain, on the plain of Lea.

The fortress consisted of a three-storeyed rectangular building 60 feet by 46 feet, flanked by round towers and having walls varying in thickness from 8 to 10 feet. The west side of the structure has been blown up, but the remaining tower contains five rooms, one of them having thicker walls than the rest, _i.e._, 13 feet instead of 12.

The centre of the castle was built on arches, and the projecting angles of the towers were connected by a curtain wall nearly 8 feet thick.

The approach was by a causeway 100 feet in length. It was surrounded by a ditch 25 feet wide, which could be filled by water from the Barrow. From this it was called Port-na-hinch, or the “Castle of the Island,” from which the barony takes its name. Inside the moat was a low wall, which can still be traced. All the arches are round except one leading from the causeway to the bawn, which is pointed.

Two drawbridges and two bastions defended the gate into the inner ballium, which measured 140 feet by 130 feet. The remains of the barbican can still be seen.

The outer ballium includes the bawn, and the inner one contained a tennis court and tilt yard.

Some authorities state the castle was erected by Baron Offaly, while again it is said to owe its origin in about 1260 to William de Vesey, who had married the Earl of Derby’s daughter, whose mother was heiress to William Mareschal, Lord Palatine of Lea. The daughter of O’More, Prince of Leix, is also said to have built Lea Castle on the Barrow in the marches of Inch, 1260.

It appears, however, to have been in existence in 1203, as there is an order to the Justiciary of Ireland to have the castle delivered, as well as other possessions, which had belonged to Gerald FitzMaurice, and in 1257 William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, received a grant of the wardship of Maurice, 2nd Baron of Offaly, and also his castles of Lea and Geashill.

In 1264 a meeting was held at Castledermot to settle some dispute about land in Connaught, but at it Maurice, Baron of Offaly, and his nephew, John FitzThomas, seized Richard de Burgh, heir to the Earl of Ulster, the Lord Justice Richard de Capella, Theobald Butler, and John Cogan, and imprisoned them in Lea.

Thomas de Clare sold the wardship of Maurice Fitz-Gerald’s heirs and the guardianship of Lea Castle to Sir William de Valence in 1270 for 3,500 marks. The wardship had been granted to De Clare by the King’s eldest son. At this time, the Book of Howth states, it was the only fortress held by the English in Offaly. In 1274, however, an order was issued to restore the custody of FitzGerald’s heirs to Roger and Matilda de Mortimer, who had, it seems, inherited the privilege, and De Valence only having paid 2,300 marks was not held liable for the rest of the money in consequence.

The castle was burnt by the O’Dempseys, O’Dunnes, and O’Carrols in 1284, and Theobald Verdon going to avenge the outrage was entirely routed. It was shortly afterwards restored by De Vesey, the Lord Justice of Ireland.

Here, with the assistance of Baron Offaly, he imprisoned the Red Earl of Ulster and his brother in 1294, but they were liberated the following year by order of the Parliament at Kilkenny, and the Pearl’s sons were surrendered as hostages instead. It is said De Vesey then quarrelled with John FitzThomas FitzGerald, Baron Offaly, and fled to France to avoid meeting him in single combat, and by this means Lea Castle lapsed again to the Geraldines.

John FitzThomas was ordered to repair to the King abroad in 1297, and £40 was granted to him to fortify his Castle of Ley.

The castle was besieged and the town burnt in 1307 by the “tories” of Offaly, but the former was relieved by John FitzThomas and Sir Edmund Butler, afterwards Earl of Carrick.

Baron Offaly restored the fortress and erected a church with steeple and bells, but in 1316 Robert Bruce burnt the castle and town, and carried off the bells.

Sir Walter Eustis is said to have been stabbed to death in the castle by his wife’s sister, daughter of the O’More, who had formerly rejected his addresses, but upon the birth of her sister’s child, she murdered Sir Walter in a fit of jealousy, and retired to the convent at Kildare, where she confessed her crime and died penitent.

The O’Dempseys’ seized the fortress in 1329, but the next year it was surrendered to Sir John Darcy, Lord Justice, who restored it to the Earl of Kildare to keep for the King. The O’Dempseys again laid siege to the castle in 1339, but were driven off by the Earl.

O’More, Chief of Leix, burnt Lea in the spring of 1346, but in the following November he was defeated by the Earl of Kildare, who rebuilt the town, castle, and church, but not the steeple.

The fortress was again taken by O’More and O’Dempsey in 1414. Seven years later they were defeated near Kilkea Castle by the 6th Earl of Kildare, nicknamed “Shaun Cam,” or Hump-backed John.

Lea Castle was restored to the Earl after the battle of the Red-bog of Athy.

The Four Masters mention the castle in 1452.

In 1533 the Earl of Kildare furnished the stronghold with guns and ammunition out of the King’s store, and in direct opposition to his commands, which the Master of the Rolls pointed out to him in the presence of the Bishop of Meath.

The following year it is reported to have been one of the six best castles of the Geraldines, and it was the chief stronghold of Lord Offaly, the “Silken Thomas,” during his rebellion, after the fall of Maynooth.

There is a letter from the former constable of this latter fortress, written in 1535, to Cromwell, saying that Lord Thomas had removed the Countess’s apparel to Ley, as well as other valuables, and that he, Boyce, had resigned his office in consequence of the insurrection.

The Carew MSS. record the Castle of Ley was of “no value” in 1537, and state it was granted to James FitzGerald after the attainting of the Earl. In 1548 he required two gunners at the King’s charge, and powder and shot.

Thomas Scotte petitioned to lease it in 1549.

In 1554 the Lord Deputy, Thomas Earl of Sussex, is said to have taken it from Patrick O’More, but it was regained by Anthony O’More in 1598, after which he defeated Essex at the Pass of Ballybrittas, called the “Pass of Plumes” from those worn by the gay English soldiers.

Lea was held by the Irish in 1641 upon the breaking out of the rebellion, but afterwards the loyalists took possession under the command of Lord Lisle. They planted an ash-tree to commemorate the event which lived 170 years, and had a girth of from 29 to 33 feet, while its shade had a diameter of 60 feet.