Part 13

The fortress was for many years in possession of the O’Dohertys.

In 1555 Calvagh O’Donnell went to Scotland to raise forces with the help of Mac Calin (Gillaspick Don), and returning with them and a cannon called _gonna cam_, or “crooked gun,” he set to work and demolished the New Castle.

It was, however, reported as wardable in 1586. The last of the O’Dohertys to hold the fortress was knighted by Queen Elizabeth, but shortly afterwards he went into rebellion, and his estate was forfeited.

In 1610 it was granted with other property to Sir Arthur Chichester with an allowance to maintain the garrison. Two years later he asked to be allowed for horsemen at Greencastle instead of the ten warders, and in 1615 Lord Chichester was granted Greencastle for three lives by letters patent.

In 1752 it was on the Earl of Donegal’s estate.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

O’Donovan, “Annals of the Four Masters.” MS. Ordnance Survey. Stokes, “Pococke’s Tour in Ireland in 1752.” State Papers. Carew MSS. Parliamentary Gazetteer. Blackley, “A Tour through Innishowen.”

_GREENCASTLE, COUNTY DOWN_

Upon the northern shore of Carlingford Lough, in the Barony of Mourne, four and a half miles south-west of Kilteel, County Down, are situated the ruins of this castle. It is a very fine specimen of Norman architecture, and was erected soon after the landing of the first English settlers so as to secure communication between the Pale and the outlying district of Lecale, as well as to command the entrance to Carlingford Lough.

At present the remains chiefly consist of the keep, which was a high rectangular building, with square towers at the angles. A winding stair in the south-west turret leads to the top. The stone floor of the great hall, measuring 70 feet by 40, is supported by arches which form vaults in the basement. The upper floors have disappeared, and were probably of wood.

The traces of extensive outworks can be seen round the building. On the west side stands a house which is at present inhabited by a farmer, but which for many years formed the chief residence of the Bagnall family during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

The castle belonged to the Du Burgos or Burkes, Earls of Ulster, and in 1312 Sir Maurice, the son of Thomas, married Catherine, daughter of the “Red Earl” of Ulster, and the next day, being the 16th of August, Thomas, the 2nd Earl of Kildare, “a prudent and wise man,” married her sister, Lady Joan de Burgh, also in the castle. The Lady Joan had two other married sisters, one being the

wife of King Robert Bruce, and the other Countess of Desmond.

In 1335 there was an order to send six “balistas” to furnish “Viride Castrum,” or the Greencastle. The same year William de Logan was ordered to pay Henry de Maunderville 20 marks out of the rents of the late Earl of Ulster, which were in the King’s hands, on account of the minority of the heir. This reward was for De Maunderville having twice relieved the castle of Greencastle with men-at-arms when it was besieged by the “felons” of Ulster.

It was again attacked by the Irish in 1343, and this time it was carried by storm and dilapidated, but was shortly afterwards restored.

The late Constable, William de Doun, received pardon in 1356 for having seized and imprisoned Rosea, daughter of Richard Foy.

During Henry IV.’s reign there was only one constable between the castles of Carlingford and Greencastle. It is reported that Stephen Geron received £20 a year for the guardianship of Greencastle and £5 for Carlingford.

In 1403 John Moore, who was then constable, petitioned for a rise of salary, and he was granted £40 a year on condition he spent 10 marks of it on repairs. The amount was to be paid out of the rents of Carlingford, Cooley, and “le Mourne.”

None but Englishmen were permitted to hold the appointment in 1495.

Notwithstanding this, when M’Donell made his submission in 1542 he requested to be granted Greencastle, and the lands lying waste around it, for which favour he promised military service.

The Government did not evidently see their way to accede to his request, and seven years later it is reported that the fortress was in a “wretched condition.”

In 1552 it was granted to Sir Nicholas Bagnall, in whose family’s possession it remained for many years.

Sir Arthur Chichester was granted means to provide ten warders for Greencastle in 1612, but this does not seem to have interfered with the Bagnall possession, as in 1620 Arthur Bagnall held the manors and lordships of Greencastle and Mourne.

Three years later it is recommended that the ward be moved from Culmore to Greencastle, and the stronghold was garrisoned during the rebellion of 1641.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

J. O’Laverty, “Diocese of Down and Connor.” W. Harris, “County of Down.” R. Praeger, “Official Guide to County Down.” State Papers. Marquis of Kildare, “Earls of Kildare.” Carew MSS. Parliamentary Gazetteer.

_HOWTH CASTLE_

About seven miles east-north-east of Dublin, in the Barony of Coolock, is situated the village of Howth, on the promontory of the same name.

A short way from the town, nestling under the lee of the hill is the castle, the seat of the Earls of Howth.

It is a long battlemented building, with square towers at each end.

A large flight of steps gives admission to the hall, which extends along the whole length of the building. Here is preserved the two-handed sword of Sir Amoricus Tristram (the founder of the St. Laurence family in Ireland) with which he is said to have fought his first Irish battle. Also three inscribed bells, which were removed from the Abbey, are preserved in the castle.

The fortress seems to have undergone much alteration since its first erection, and the great gateway tower, which now flanks the main building on one side, appears to be of sixteenth-century architecture and is no doubt part of the original building.

The stronghold was erected in 1564 by Christopher, the twentieth baron, but whether it was built on the site of an older castle or whether Corr Castle, also situated on the peninsular, was the ancient fortress of the St. Laurence family, does not seem to be known.

The mortar of the early building, like the Tower of London, is reported to have been mixed with blood. Until far into the nineteenth century the castle was surrounded by a fosse.

There are several inscribed and figured stones over the entrance to the stable-yard, and also one built into the wall near the garden gate.

Sir John de Courcy and his sister’s husband, Sir Amoricus Tristram, arrived at Howth in 1177. Their companionship in arms is said to have been the outcome of a compact to share each other’s fortunes made in the Church of St. Mary at Rouen.

Upon the arrival of the ship at Howth, De Courcy, being ill, remained on board, while Sir Amoricus took command of their forces in the first engagement with the Danes, who fiercely opposed their landing.

After a great battle, in which Sir Amoricus lost seven blood relations, the enemy were completely defeated at the bridge of the Evora, and the lands of Howth were granted to the victor as a reward of prowess.

He then accompanied Sir John de Courcy to Down, where he also gained possessions and did great deeds of valour. A story is told that after the first battle in the north Sir Amoricus was found leaning on his shield under a hedge, bleeding from three large wounds, and having sustained himself by eating the wild roses and honeysuckle which grew within his reach. His life was despaired of for nine days, but he eventually recovered, and lived to die heroically among a group of outnumbered infantry, having slain his horse so that he could not save himself by flight.

The St. Laurence coat of arms is a shield with cross swords and roses in a bloody field, which may have originated from the wild flowers Sir Amoricus gathered.

An early chronicler says of him that he might “be chosen from amongst a thousand knights for beauty and heroic courage, as well as for humility and courtesy to his inferiors, yielding to none but in the way of gentleness.”

After his death his sons gradually lost his northern possessions, and King John confirmed the grant of the lands of Howth to the third baron by charter. It may have been at this time that the family name was changed from Tristram to St. Laurence. There seems to be no historical evidence for the tradition that the name was altered to commemorate a victory gained upon St. Laurence’s Day.

In 1575, as Grace O’Mailley was returning from her famous visit to Queen Elizabeth she landed at Howth, but found the castle gates closed, the reason assigned being that it was the dinner hour. Shocked at such want of Irish hospitality she seized the young heir, who was playing on the strand, and carried him off to her castle in Mayo. She refused to restore him until she received a promise that the gates of Howth Castle should never again be closed at dinner hour. This child was Nicholas, afterwards twenty-first baron. A picture at the castle is supposed to represent the incident.

Lord Mountjoy, as Lord Deputy, and Sir George Carew, as Lord President of Munster, landed at Howth in 1599, and spent a night at the castle before proceeding to Dublin.

In 1607 the State Papers report that the old Countess of Kildare and Lady Dowager of Delvin and her children were at Howth in Sir Christopher St. Laurence’s house, and the following year it is mentioned that Sir John Talbot’s house is near the castle of Howth.

King William slept a night in the castle in 1690, and his room was kept unaltered from the time he had used it.

Dean Swift was a constant visitor at Howth, and an original portrait of him, painted by Bindon in 1735, hangs in the castle.

Near the garden stands the old elm known as “The Tristram Tree,” which has been carefully propped and preserved in every way on account of the tradition attaching to it. It is said that as long as this tree lives there will be an heir to the noble house which was founded by Sir Amoricus Tristram.

To “follow as closely as Lord Howth’s Rat” was at one time a common simile for any faithful or attached animal, and the legend which gave rise to the saying is the following:--

One of the former Lords of Howth had retired to his castle to retrench a somewhat diminished heritage, and one night while living thus in solitary state there was a fearful storm.

Word was brought to the fortress that a ship was being wrecked under the cliffs near the Abbey, and every one rushed off to the spot to render what assistance was possible, and amongst them Lord Howth.

Every effort was, however, unavailing, and the ship went down apparently with all hands. But as morning broke the eager watchers espied a frail, roughly-put-together raft floating towards them, and on this was a beautiful woman, with a wooden chest beside her.

As soon as she landed Lord Howth courteously offered her the hospitality of the castle, and ordered his servants to carry the heavy coffer thither.

She continued to live at Howth Castle, and her host became passionately enamoured of her, and wished to marry her, but she persistently refused his offers, and urged him daily to seek another bride.

At last he gave way to her entreaties, and became affianced to the daughter of a neighbouring nobleman.

As the time for the marriage drew near the fair stranger presented Lord Howth with a ribbon wrought with strange characters, which she told him to wear on his wrist and guard as his luck. Then she left the castle and was heard of no more.

In due course Lord Howth brought home his bride, and with true womanly curiosity she wanted to know why he never removed the ribbon from his arm.

One night, while he was asleep, she untied it, and took it over to the fire to decipher the inscription, but it accidentally ignited, and was burnt to ashes.

Lord Howth was terribly distressed at its loss, declaring that his good fortune would now forsake him.

Shortly after this there was a great feast in the castle. In the midst of the festivities the dogs in the courtyard began to give tongue, as if in pursuit of game, and in a minute a terrified rat had jumped on the banqueting table, and, pausing before Lord Howth, looked up piteously in his face for protection.

He ordered the dogs to be called off, and from that hour the rat never left him.

His wife and family did not approve of his faithful attendant, and his brother persuaded him to go to the Continent, and by thus crossing the sea rid himself of the animal. However, the morning after his arrival in France the rat was found sleeping on his bed. He then pushed on to Marseilles, but not long after his arrival the rat entered his room wet and draggled from its long journey.

The animal approached the fire to dry itself, when the nobleman’s brother took up the poker in a rage and killed it with one blow.

“You have murdered me,” cried the Earl, and, falling back, he died.

The rat is sometimes said to have been white, and to reappear when evil is about to befall the house of St. Laurence.

The present Lord Howth is the fourth earl.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

D’Alton, “History of Co. Dublin.” Proceedings of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland. Brewer, “Beauties of Ireland.” Parliamentary Gazetteer. Calendar of State Papers. R. A., “The Abbey of Howth,” in _Dublin Penny Journal_.

_KILBARRON CASTLE_

“Broad, blue, and deep the Bay of Donegal Spreads north and south, and far a-west before The beetling cliffs, sublime and shattered wall, Where the O’Cleary’s name is heard no more.” T. D. MCGEE.

This castle is situated on the shores of Donegal Bay about three miles from the town of Ballyshannon, in the Barony of Kilbarron, County Donegal.

The name Cill-Barrainn signifies “the Church of St. Barrfhionn.”

The fortress was built on a high and nearly insulated cliff, and from its romantic and wild situation a tradition falsely sprang up that it had been the stronghold of freebooters. The promontory is nearly circular in form and rises a hundred feet above the sea, along the edge of which a wall was built, while on the landward side a thick wall, the whole width of the neck protected this direction from attack.

To the north of the small open courtyard thus enclosed was the keep, and here are traces of a subterranean passage, now filled up, which was used for “distillery purposes” in the eighteenth century.

The remains of two chambers at the cliff side seem older than the other buildings. The sea wall is pierced by an oblong passage with a small square mouth popularly known as “the murdering-hole.”

The castle was probably erected in the thirteenth or fourteenth century by the O’Sgingins, who were ollaves or historians to the great O’Donnells.

In 1391 the Four Masters tell us it was demolished by Donnell, the son of Murtough (O’Conor of Sligo).

The last of the O’Sgingins to be chief historian to O’Donnell in the fourteenth century had no son, and only one beautiful daughter, with whom Cormac O’Cleary, who was on a visit to the Abbey of Assaroe, from Galway, fell in love.

O’Sgingin gave his consent to the marriage, and instead of the wedding gift which it was usual for the bridegroom to present to his wife’s father, O’Sgingin asked that if a son were born of the marriage he should be brought up with a knowledge of literature and history.

Hence Kilbarron passed into the O’Cleary family, and this great race of historians occupied it for several centuries.

It is likely Cormac O’Cleary re-edified it, but the “stone houses,” of which the building is recorded, were erected by Diarmaid, one of the celebrated sons of Tadhg Cam (or The Stooped) O’Cleary.

The fortunes of the Ollaves of Tirconnell began to wane with that of their patrons, the O’Donnells, although the last O’Cleary to hold lands was not dispossessed until 1632, yet many of their possessions were lost to them at the flight of the Northern Earls in 1607. Most of the estate passed to Lord Folliott and the Bishop of Raphoe.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

Donovan, “Annals of the Four Masters.” Allingham, “History of Ballyshannon.” P., “Kilbarron Castle,” in _Irish Penny Journal_. Donovan, “Genealogies, Tribes and Customs of Hy-Fiachrach.” Parliamentary Gazetteer. Proceedings of Royal Society of Antiquaries, Ireland.

_KILBRITTAIN CASTLE_

The castle is situated about five miles south of Bandon, at the Kilbrittain inlet from Courtmacsherry Bay, in the County of Cork.

Smith says the castle before being rebuilt “was a stately building environed with a large bawn, fortified with six turrets on the walls.” Mr. Jones Stawell erected the present mansion, with which a portion of the ancient castle is incorporated. The kitchen, servants’ hall, and housekeeper’s room have vaulted roofs, and date from the twelfth century or earlier. There is also a tower and adjoining wall which belonged to the former fortress, as well as the steps leading from the old courtyard. There are supposed to be vaults underneath the building, which are not now accessible, as well as an underground passage leading to the sea.

The castle is pleasantly situated on rising ground between hills. It is usually supposed to have been erected by the Lords Courcey, who received a grant of the lands shortly after the Anglo-Norman landing, but in 1743 Robert Clayton, Bishop of Cork, sent copies of two inscribed stones, found at Kilbrittain, to John, Earl of Egmont. These stones bore the date 1035 in the Arabian characters, which seems to indicate an earlier date of erection. He says: “The stone from which the inscription was taken was found by Mr. Stawell in an old castle, which he has since pulled down, called Kilbrittain, which signifies in Irish the ‘church or cell,’ or rather the ‘burial place of the Britains.’ Mr. Stawell says there was likewise the figure of a woman carved in _bas-relief_ on another stone, the workmanship of which being most curious. He neglected it, and it has since been lost.”

The manor of Kilbrittain passed into the King’s hands in 1295 upon the death of John de Courcey, who was slain on the Island of Inchydonny by M’Carthy. Walter de la Haye, the King’s escheator, delivered the lands to James Keating in keeping for De Courcey’s heir.

Lord Courcey, it is said, borrowed a white weasel or ferret from M’Carthy, and pledged his castle as surety for its safe return, but the animal dying M’Carthy claimed Kilbrittain, and it thus passed out of De Courcey’s hands.

In 1430 M’Carthy Reagh and James, Earl of Desmond, “The Usurper,” began hostilities, and the castle was stormed by the Earl and given to his brother Donough, who had assisted at its capture, but it subsequently returned to the M’Carthys.

In 1537 Lady Eleanor M’Carthy resided in the castle after her husband’s death. She was sister to Gerald, 9th Earl of Kildare, and, therefore, aunt to Thomas, the “Silken Lord,” and his half brothers. After Lord Offaly’s rebellion, and execution, and the attainting of the house of Kildare, the young heir Gerald escaped from the Government by the aid of his tutor Thomas Leverous, afterwards Bishop of Kildare, who wrapped him in a blanket, and fled with him although the lad was sick with smallpox. After a hot pursuit they reached Kilbrittain where the Lady Eleanor took charge of her nephew. She subsequently married O’Donnell of Ulster to gain protection for the boy, but finding her husband was treating with the Government to betray him, she sent the future Earl to France and returned to her son’s territory in the County Cork.

In 1572 Kilbrittain is spoken of as M’Carthy Reagh’s chief dwelling-place, and it is mentioned that he paid a yearly rent of 67 beefs for it to the Earl of Desmond, besides rendering him military service at times. Eighteen plough lands are mentioned as attached to it in 1599.

During the great rebellion of 1641 it was the scene of much bloodshed, a gallows having been erected before the castle windows “for hanging the English.” One morning a Richard Mewdon was hanged after two days’ imprisonment, having been bound to a Mrs. Stringer with great cruelty. The rope was then put round her neck, but M’Carthy’s mother looking out of the window, and thinking to save her, sent a priest to know what religion she was. She, however, boldly declared she was a Protestant.

The castle was shortly afterwards taken by the Bandonians.

Some ancient fir-trees are still to be seen called “M’Carthy’s Bagpipes,” where the executions took place, and the ground beneath having been cursed by one of his victims no grass will grow on it, although there is plenty of light and air.

After the confiscation of the M’Carthy estates the castle passed to Colonel Thomas Long, who was left at the head of affairs when Henry Cromwell retired. At the Restoration it reverted to the Crown and James II. bestowed it on Donough M’Carthy, Lord Cloncarty, a relative of its former owner.

It was sold in Oueen Anne’s reign to the Hollow Sword Blades Company, and it is now in the possession of Colonel W. St. Leger Alcock-Stawell.

To the castle belonged privileges of fairs and markets.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

Smith, “State of the County and City of Cork”; also Copenger, “Historical Notes in New Edition” of same. Gibson, “History of the County and City of Cork.” Bennett, “History of Bandon.” Marquis of Kildare, “Earls of Kildare.” Carew MSS. Parliamentary Gazetteer.

_KILKEA CASTLE_

“And, oh! through many a dark campaign They proved their prowess stern, In Leinster’s plains and Munster’s vales, On king, and chief, and kern. But noble was the cheer within The halls so rudely won, And generous was the steel-gloved hand That had such slaughter done. How gay their laugh, how proud their mien, You’d ask no herald’s sign-- Amid a thousand you had known, The princely Geraldine.”

This castle was built by Hugh de Lacy, Chief Governor of Ireland, for Walter de Riddlesford, Baron of Bray, who had been granted the surrounding district of Omurethi by Strongbow. De Riddlesford’s granddaughter, Emelina inherited the manors of Kilkea and Castledermot through her mother, and she, marrying Maurice FitzGerald, 3rd Baron of Offaly, the property passed to the Geraldines who still possess Kilkea Castle, which is one of the seats of the Duke of Leinster, where some of the family at present reside.

Kilkea signifies the Church of St. Kay, or Caoide, and the barony derives its name from the churchyard situated a few perches north-west of the castle.

The fortress is built on the banks of the River Greese, a tributary of the Barrow, about five miles south-east of Athy. Its position was a particularly exposed one, being

situated in the Marshes which lay between the English pale and the territories of the native Irish. During the centuries since its erection it has undergone many alterations and enlargements down to its final restoration in 1849.

In 1356 Maurice, 4th Earl of Kildare, was commanded by the king to “strengthen and maintain his castles of Kilkea, Rathmore, and Ballymore, under pain of forfeiting the same.” In 1426 the castle was enlarged by John FitzGerald, 6th Earl of Kildare. Again, about the year 1573, Gerald, the 11th Earl, repaired Kilkea after he was restored to the title and estates of which his half-brother, the “Silken Thomas,” had been dispossessed. Three sculptured stones are still in existence belonging to a chimney-piece placed in the dining-hall by this Earl, and have, after various vicissitudes, been replaced in somewhat their original positions.