CHAPTER XXX

THE BIDASSOA AND THE FRONTIER

In the western valleys of the Pyrenees, opening out into the Landes bordering upon the Golfe de Gascogne, rises the little river Bidassoa, famous in history and romance. To the Basques its name is Bastanzubi, and its length is but sixty-five kilometres.

In the upper valley, in Spanish territory, is Elizondo, the tiny capital of olden times, and three other tiny Spanish towns whose names suggest nothing but an old-world existence.

In its last dozen or fifteen kilometres the Bidassoa forms the boundary between France and Spain, and mid-stream--below Hendaye, the last French station on the railway between Paris and Madrid--is the famous Ile des Faisans.

All of this is classic ground. Just across the river from Hendaye is Irun, the first station on the Spanish railway line. It offers nothing special in the way of historical monuments, save a fourteenth-century Hôtel de Ville and innumerable old houses. Its characteristics are as much French as Spanish, and its speech the same, when its people don't talk Basque.

A historic incident of the Ile des Faisans was the famous affair of 1526, when, after the Battle of Pavia, and François Premier had been made prisoner by Charles V, the former was _exchanged_ against his two children as hostages.

Three years later the children themselves were redeemed by another _exchange_, this time of much gold and many precious "relics," as one learns from the old chronicles.

In 1615, on the same classic spot, as far from Spanish territory as from French, Anne of Austria, the fiancée of Louis XIII, was put into the hands of the French by the Spanish, who received in return Elizabeth of France, fiancée of Philippe III. Quite a mart the Ile des Faisans had become! The culminating event was the signing of the celebrated Traité des Pyrénées, on November 7th, 1659.

When François Premier, fleeing from Madrid, where he had been the prisoner of Charles V, first set foot upon French soil again at this imaginary boundary line, he said: "At last I am a king again! Now I am really free." It was only through the efforts of his sister that François was able to escape his royal jailer. He had made promises which he did not intend to live up to; the king perjured himself but he saved France.

He rode with all speed from Madrid to meet his boys, the Dauphin and the Duc d'Orleans, who were to replace him as hostages at Madrid. On the river's edge the sons were awaiting their father, with an emotion too vivid for description. They had no fear, and they entered willingly into the plan which was laid down for them, but the meeting and the parting was most sad. Wild with excitement of liberty being so near, François could hardly wait for the ferry to take him across, and even waded into the river to meet it as they pulled towards it. On French soil a splendid retinue awaited him, and once more the French king was surrounded by his luxurious court.

To-day the Island of Pheasants is hardly more than a sand bar, and Mazarin and Don Louis de Haro, and their numerous suites would have a hard time finding a foothold. The currents of the river and the ocean have made of it only a pinhead on modern maps. In 1856, at the expense of the two countries, a stone memorial, with an inscription in French and Spanish, was erected to mark the site of this fast dwindling island.

Irun and Feuntarrabia, with the three French communes of Biriaton, Béhobie and Hendaye enjoy reciprocal rights over the waters of the estuary of this epoch and history making river. This is the result of an agreement of long years standing, known as the "Pacte de Famille," an agreement made between the French and Spanish Basques (those of the _béret bleu_ with the _béret rouge_) with the concurrence of the French and Spanish authorities.

Crossing the Pont International between France and Spain may prove to be an amusing and memorable sensation. If a man at one end of the bridge offers you an umbrella, or a parasol, to keep off the sun's rays during this promenade, saying that you can leave it with a friend at the other end, don't take it. The other who would take it from you may be prevented from doing so by a Spanish gendarme or a customs official, who indeed is just as likely to catch you first. The fine is "easy" enough for this illicit traffic, but the international complications are many and great. So, too, will be the inconveniences to yourself.

Around the Pont International, on both the French and Spanish sides, is as queer a collection of stray dogs and cats as one will see out of Constantinople. They are of a "_race imprécise, vraies bêtes internationales_," the customhouse officer tells you, and from their looks there's no denying it. They may not be wicked, may only bark and not bite, mew and not scratch, but only they themselves know this. To the rest of us they look suspicious.

From Hendaye one may enter Spain by any one of three means of communication,--by railway, on foot across the Pont de Béhobie, or by a boat across the Bidassoa. The first means is the most frequented; for a _piécette_--that is to say a _pièce blanche_ of Spanish money, which has the weight and appearance of a franc, but a considerably reduced value--one can cross by train; a boatman will take you for half the price at any time of the day or night; and by the Pont International, it costs nothing.

This international bridge belongs half to France and half to Spain, the post in the middle bearing the respective arms marking the limits of the territorial rights of each.

This is one of the most curiously ordained frontiers in all the world. The people of Urrugne in France, twenty kilometres distant from the frontier, can hold speech freely in their mother tongue with those of Feuntarrabia in Spain, but officialdom of the customs and railway organizations at Hendaye and Irun, next-door neighbours, have to translate their speech from French to Spanish and vice versa, or have an interpreter who will. Curious anomaly this!

Hendaye's chief shrine is a modern one, the singularly-built house, on a rock dominating the bay, formerly inhabited by Pierre Loti, though most of his fellow townsmen knew him only as Julian Viaud, Lieutenant de Vaisseau. This, though the commander of the miserable little gunboat called the "_Javelot_" stationed always in the Bidassoa was an _Académicien_.

At the French entrance to this important frontier bridge one reads on a panel PONT INTERNATIONAL; and at the Spanish end, PUENTE INTERNACIONAL; and here the _gendarme_ of France become the _carabiniero_ of Spain.

Béhobie, at the Spanish end of the bridge, the French call "the biggest hamlet in Europe." It virtually is a hamlet, but it has some of the largest business and industrial enterprises in the country, for here have been established branch houses and factories of many a great French industry in order to avoid the tariff tax imposed on foreign products in the Spanish peninsula. The game has been played before elsewhere, but never so successfully as here.

On the Pointe de Ste. Anne, the northern boundary of the estuary of the Bidassoa, is a monumental château, the work of Viollet-le-Duc, built by him for the Comte d'Abbadie. Modern though it is, its architectural opulence is in keeping with the knowledge of its builder (the greatest authority on Gothic the world has ever known, or ever will know); and as a combination of the excellencies of old-time building with modern improvements, this Château d'Abbadie stands quite in a class by itself. At the death of the widow of the Comte d'Abbadie, the château was bequeathed by her to the Institut de France.

The view seaward from the little peninsula upon which the château sits is marvellously soft and beautiful, and what matter it if the fish of the Golfe de Fontarabie to the south have no eyes--if indeed his statement be true. No oculist or zoölogist has said it, but a poet has written thus:--

"Le poisson qui rouvrit l'oeil mort du vieux Tobie Se joue au fond du golfe où dort fontarabie."

Near by is the Forêt d'Yraty, much like most of the forests of France, except that this is all up and down hill, clinging perilously wherever there is enough loose soil for a tree to take root.

The inhabitants tell you of a "wild man" discovered here by the shepherds, in 1774, long before the days of circus wild men. He was tall, well proportioned and covered with hair like a bear, and always in a good humour, though he did not speak an intelligible language. His chief amusement was sheep-stealing, and one day it was determined to take him prisoner. The shepherds and the authorities tried for twenty-five years, until finally he disappeared from view--and so the legend ends.

Across the estuary of the Bidassoa, in truth, the Baie de Fontarabie, the sunsets are of a magnificence seldom seen. There _may_ be others as gorgeous elsewhere, but none more so, and one can well imagine the same refulgent red glow, of which historians write, that graced the occasion when Cristobal Colon (or his Basque precursor) set out into the west.

In connection with all this neighbouring Franco-Espagnol country of the Basques, one is bound to recall the great events of these last years, both at Biarritz, and at San Sebastian, across the border. The cachet of the king of England's approval has been given to the former, and of that of the king of Spain to the latter. Already the region has become known as the _Côte d'Argent_, as is the Riviera the _Côte d'Azure_, and the north Brittany coast the _Côte d'Emeraud_.

It was here on the _Côte d'Argent_ that King Alfonso did his wooing, his automobile flashing to and fro between St. Sebastian and Biarritz, crossing and recrossing the frontier stream of the Bidassoa. Bridges of stone and steel carry the traffic now, and it passes between Irun and Hendaye, higher up the river, but in the old days, the days of François I, the passage was more picturesquely made by ferry.

Feuntarrabia is but a stone's throw away, sitting, as it were, desolate and forgotten on its promontory beyond the sands, and as the sun sets, flinging its blood-red radiance over sea and shore, the aspect is all very quiet, very peaceful, and fair. It is difficult to realize the stirring times that once passed over the spot, the war thunder that shook the echoes of the hills. May the bloody scenes of the _Côte d'Argent_ be over for ever, and its future be as happy as King Alfonso's wooing.

At Feuntarrabia, but a step beyond Irun, one enters his first typical Spanish town. You know this because touts try to sell you, and every one else, a lottery ticket, and because the beggars, who, apparently, are as numerous as their tribe in Naples, quote proverbs at your head.

You may understand them or you may not, but since Spain is the land of proverbs, it is but natural that you should meet with them forthwith. Here is one, though it is more like an enigma; and when translated it becomes but an old friend in disguise:--

"Un manco escribio una carta, Un siega la esta mirando; Un mudo la esta leyenda Y un sordo la esta escuchando."

"A handless man a letter did write, A dumb dictated it word for word; The person who read it had lost his sight, And deaf was he who listened and heard."

One need not be a phenomenal linguist to understand this, even in the vernacular.

Feuntarrabia itself is a cluster of brown-red houses piled high along the narrow streets, with deep eaves over-hanging grated windows, and carved doorways leading to shady courts.

There is a certain squalid, gone-to-ruin air about everything, which, in this case, is but a charm; but one can picture from the blazoned stone coats-of-arms seen here and there that the dwellers of olden time were proud and reverend seigneurs.

Feuntarrabia, the little sea-coast town, called even by the French _la perle de la Bidassoa_ is contrastingly different to Saint-Jean-de-Luz, though not twenty kilometres away. It is Spanish to the core, and on the escutcheon above the city gate one reads an ancient inscription to the effect that it belonged to the kings of Castile and was always "a very noble, very loyal, very brave and always faithful city."

Feuntarrabia was once a fortress of renown, but that was in the long ago. It was a theatre of battles without end. Here Condé was repulsed, together with the best chivalry of France, and it was then that the grateful Spanish king ordered that for evermore it should be styled "the most noble, the most leal, the most valorous of cities"--a title which does actually appear on legal documents unto this day. The Duke of Berwick, King James Stuart's gallant son, once succeeded in taking the place, and it was then so utterly dismantled by the French that it has never since been reckoned among the fortified places of Spain. But the city must indeed have felt the old war spirit stir again when it beheld those two great generals, Soult and Wellington, strive for victory before its hoary walls in 1813. Inch by inch the British had forced Napoleon's men from Spain; and here on the very frontier of France, Maréchal Soult gathered his forces for one last desperate stand. No British foot, he swore, should dare to touch the soil of France. But one chill October day, when the rain was falling on the broken, trodden vineyards, and the wind came moaning from the sullen sea, the word was given along the English ranks to pass the Bidassoa. And across the river came a line of scarlet fighting men, haggard and war-worn, many of them wounded, all of them weary. The result of that day is written on the annals of military glory as "one of the most daring exploits of military genius." Long afterwards Soult himself acknowledged it was the most splendid episode of the Peninsular War.

THE END.

Index

Abbadie, Château d', 443

_Abelles, Seigneurs des_, 108

Accous, 333

Agde, 24, 28, 55

Agen, 52, 224

Aigues-Mortes, 55, 56, 85

_Albret Family, D'_, 232, 235, 256, 260, 261, 267, 270-274, 280, 281, 310, 340, 344, 345, 347, 350, 356-367

_Alphonse XIII_, 318, 445

Amauros, Château d', 122

Amboise, 42, 64

Amélie-les-Bains, 5, 70, 137, 138

Andorra, 47, 140, 144, 146-151, 184, 203, 304

Andorra-Viella, 148

_Arago, François_, 103

_Aragon, House of_, 96, 97, 122, 123, 128, 139, 305

Aramits, 251-252, 328, 344

_Arc, Jeanne d'_, 31

Archachon, 53

Argelès, 122-123, 318

Ariège, 9, 177

Arles-en-Provence, 111, 117

Arles-sur-Tech, 98, 138-139, 140

Armagnac, Comté d', 9, 13, 14, 84, 256, 266, 366

_Armagnac Family, D'_, 193, 256-257, 356, 365

Armendarits, 252, 253

_Arnaud, Abbé Felix_, 156-157

Arnéguy, 400

Arques, 41

Arreau, 303-304

_Arsinois, Valentine d'_, 282

Artagnan, 344

Arudy, 296

Ascarat, 400

Aspremont, Château of, 246-247

Athos, 344

Auch, 8, 225

Audaux and Its Château, 348

_Aude, Département de l'_, 9, 15, 16

Avignon, 104

Avocat-Vieux, L', 198

Axat, 152, 156, 158-159

Ax-les-Thermes, 67-68, 70, 206-209

Badefols, 76

_Baluffe, Auguste_, 152

Bagnères de Bigorre, 5, 70, 303, 321, 322, 323

Bagnères-de-Luchon (_see_ Luchon)

_Baigorry, Vicomtes de_, 397-399, 400

_Balaguer, Victor_, 176

Banyuls-sur-Mer, 14, 58, 82, 128-129

Barcelona, 3, 56, 58, 81, 82, 99, 107, 125, 136, 145, 184

Barèges, 70, 321-322

Barétous, 250-251, 328-330

Bas-Languedoc, 8, 9

Basque Provinces, 9, 46, 53, 59, 62, 74-76, 80, 241, 246, 372-392

Basse-Navarre, 17, 244, 246, 354-371, 393

Basses-Pyrénées, 9, 62, 63, 64, 262, 380, 390

Bayonne, 7, 13, 24, 53, 62, 64, 81, 184, 262, 307, 340, 352, 374, 377, 413-421, 422, 423, 424, 428, 429, 433

Béarn, 1, 9, 13, 17, 28, 44, 62, 76, 84, 176, 177, 186, 191, 230-296, 311, 336, 342, 354-371, 396

_Béarn, Vicomtes de_, 176, 261, 267, 283, 284, 296, 324, 325, 328, 355

Bedous, 332-333

Béhobie, 439, 440, 442

Bellegarde, Fortress de, 4, 56, 81, 136

Bellocq, Château de, 344-345

_Benoit XII_, 180

_Benoit XIII_, 124

_Béranger_, 93

Bergerac, 13

_Bertrand, Jean_, 229

Betharrem, 310-312

Bethmale, 220

Béziers, 15, 24, 55, 85, 122, 152, 153

Biarritz, 2, 3, 46, 54, 60, 61, 64, 163, 165, 233, 305, 346, 377, 378, 384, 417, 422-430, 444, 445

Bidache and Its Château, 240, 244-246

Bidarray, 405, 406

Bielle, 292-293

Biert, 220-221

Bigorre, 3, 5, 9, 50, 70, 84, 176, 208, 222, 283, 303, 311, 356, 366

Bilboa, 99

Billère, 272

Biriaton, 439

_Blanca, Jean_, 118

_Boileau_, 30, 153

_Boniface VIII_, 200

Bordeaux, 8, 12, 13, 15, 28, 52, 53, 60, 163, 186, 249, 262, 378

Born, Bertrand de, Château of, 76

Boulbonne, Abbey of, 181

_Bourbon, Antoine de_, 366

_Bourbon, Connétable de_, 433-434

Bourdette, Château de, 202

Bourg-Madame, 140, 144-146

_Brantome_, 302, 370

Brèche de Roland, 50, 254-256, 406

Bruges, 2, 288

Bunus, 389

Burgette, 403

Burgos, 64

_Cæsar_, 57, 84, 301, 355

Cahors, 13

Camargue, The, 56, 284

Cambo, 62, 71, 378, 405, 408-412

Camprodon, 140

Canfranc, 254

Canet, 118-119

Capcir, 141, 159-160

Carcassonne and Its Château, 3, 7, 15, 24, 25, 42, 46, 85, 102, 104, 121, 152, 153, 154, 161-174, 184, 210

_Carcassonne, Counts of_, 187, 199

Carol, Tour de, 146

Castel-Biel, 25-26

Castelnau-Durban, 214

Catalogne, 176, 184

Cauterets, 3, 5, 70, 84, 208, 318-319, 321, 322, 323, 331

_Centulle Family_, 231, 265, 280, 285, 324, 356

Cerbère and Its Château, 106-108

Cerdagne, The, 140-141, 160

Céret, 83, 137, 140

Cette, 15

Chalosse, 13, 62

_Charlemagne_, 4, 51, 81, 146, 153, 165, 204-205, 218, 400, 401, 406

_Charles Martel_, 73-74

_Charles I_, 142

_Charles V_, 64, 116, 120, 315, 415, 437, 438

_Charles VI_, 178

_Charles VII_, 306, 415

_Charles VIII_, 23, 97, 269, 369

_Charles IX_, 368, 416

_Charpentier, Hubert_, 311

Chavilles, 334

Chelles, 42

Chenonceaux, 42

_Chilperic_, 42

Cirque de Gavarnie, 254, 307

_Clement V_, 227

_Clement VIII_, 120

_Clotaire II_, 42

Coarraze and Its Château, 39, 42, 272, 308-310

Col de Banyuls, 58, 82, 83

Col de la Carbossière, 127

Col de la Perche, 140

Col de Lladrones, 254

Col de Perthus, 56-57, 80, 81, 127, 136, 184

Col de Puymorins, 146

Col de Ronçevaux, 255, 400

Collioure, 14, 107, 123-127

Comminges, Comté de, 9, 84, 191, 211, 222-229, 244

_Comminges, Comtes de_, 225, 228-229, 305-306

Compiègne, 42

_Condé_, _"The Grand,"_ 97, 181, 199, 275, 447

Conflent, 141

_Constant, Benjamin_, 172

_Constant, son of Constantine_, 98

_Constantine_, 98, 120

_Conti, Prince de_, 236

_Convènes, The_, 222

Cortalets, 130

Coucy, 42

Couserans, 211-221, 222

Creil, 42

Cucugnan, 104

_Dambourges_, 344

_Dante_, 250

_Daudet_, 104, 202

Dax, 224, 378

_Delcassé, M._, 145

_Desperriers_, 369

_Despourrins_, 87-88

_Dickens_, 420-421

Digne, 185

_Du Bellay_, 415

_Dugommier_, 123

_Dumas_, 236, 249-250, 251, 343, 344

_Duprat_, 277

Eaux-Bonnes, 5, 70, 289, 293-294, 323

Eaux-Chaudes, 70, 289, 294-295, 323

Echaux, Château d', 397, 398

_Edward I_, 246

_Edward III_, 336-337

_Elissagory, Renaud d'_, 353

Elizondo, 436

Elne, 28, 98, 120-122, 123, 124, 127

_Erasmus_, 370

Escalde, 145

Espelette, 412

Estagel, 103

_Estarbès, D'_, 172

_Evreux Family_, 356

_Expilly, Abbé d'_, 267

Eysus, 327-328

Falaise, 42

_Falguière, Eugene_, 172

Farges, Château de, 399-400

_Favyn_, 267

Fenouillet, Château de, 102

_Ferdinand of Aragon_, 97, 357-358, 371

Feuntarrabia, 80, 377, 439, 441, 445-447

Figueras, 81

Foix and Its Château, 3, 8, 39, 42, 46, 53, 176, 177, 181, 182, 184, 185-196, 197, 199, 202, 209, 213, 214, 315, 335, 343

Foix, Comté de, 1, 8, 9, 17, 53, 76, 175-177, 181-184, 197, 201, 202, 208-209, 211, 212, 221, 244, 256, 356, 366

_Foix, Counts of_, 148, 176-184, 185, 186, 187, 188, 190-195, 198, 199, 205, 208, 209, 231, 268, 311, 342

Fontainebleau, 42

_Foulques, Nerra_, 43, 210

_Fournier, Gaston_ (see _Benoit XII_)

_Foy, General_, 342, 343

_François I_, 21, 23, 64, 97, 365, 415-416, 437-439, 445

Frayras, 198

_Froissart_, 185, 194, 266, 298, 309, 335, 336, 338

Frontignan, 15

Gabas, 295

Gan, 277, 288

_Garat, M._, 74

Gard, 9, 15, 16

Gascogne, 8, 84, 197, 240, 256, 273, 286, 355, 356

_Gassion, Jean de_, 275-277

_Gaston Phoebus de Foix_, 4, 8, 178-180, 185, 191, 192, 193, 210, 233, 240, 261, 266, 267, 268, 310, 315, 336-339, 342, 343, 344

_Gautier, Théophile_, 373

Gavarnie, 58, 62, 254, 321

Gibraltar, 3

Ginestas, 15

Gorges de Pierre Lys, 3, 156-157

Gorges de St. Georges, 152, 158-159

_Grammont Family_, 244-246, 358

_Gregory VII_, 265

Grenada, 3, 66

Grotte de Mas d'Azil, 213-214

Gudanne, Château de, 177

Guiche, Château de, 246

_Gustavus Adolphus_, 276

Guienne, 8, 9, 365

_Hadrian_, 354

_Hannibal_, 81, 96, 120

_Haro, Don Louis de_, 439

Hastingues, 246

Haute-Garonne, 9

Haute-Languedoc, 8, 9

Hautes-Pyrénées, 9, 84, 87, 297

Hendaye, 80, 436, 439, 440-442, 445

_Henri II of France_, 229, 267

_Henri II of Navarre_, 232, 283

_Henri III of France_, 367, 368, 370

_Henri III of Navarre_ (see _Henri IV of France_)

_Henri IV of France_, 3, 7, 13, 24, 84, 178, 180, 181, 196, 213, 231, 232, 233-235, 239, 244, 245, 260, 261, 263, 264, 268, 270-275, 277, 283, 288, 295, 296, 299, 308-309, 327, 359, 363, 366-371, 429

_Henry VIII of England_, 282

Hérault, 9, 15, 16, 89

Hospitalet, 140, 146-147, 148

_Honorius III_, 188

Huesca, 47

_Hugo, Victor_, 254, 333, 373, 434

_Huguet, Pierre_, 107

Iholdy, 352, 353

Ile des Faisans, 63, 97, 436, 437-439

_Innocent VIII_, 227

Irun, 80, 436-437, 439, 442, 445

_Isabella of Castile_, 97, 357

Itxassou, Château, 412

_James I of Aragon_, 96

_Jean II of Roussillon_, 96-97

Jurançon, 264, 271

Lagarde, Fortress of, 139, 140

La Bastide-de-Serou, 25, 202

La Garde, Château de, 218

_La Gaucherie_, 272

Laghat, Notre Dame de, 204

_La Guesle_, 366

Landes, The, 9, 13, 52, 53, 59, 84

Languedoc, 14, 15, 55, 77, 87, 197, 201, 238, 240, 286

Lanne and Its Château, 251-252

_Laon, Gérard de_, 336-337

Laruns, 287, 288-293, 296

Larlenque, 198

Lascaveries, 265

Lasse and Its Château, 398-399, 400

Lastours, Château of, 174

Latour-de-France and Its Château, 103

_Laurens, Jean Paul_, 172

Laustan, Château de, 407-408

Le Boulon, 136, 137

Le Puy, 210

Les Andelys, 41

Lescar, 272, 278-284, 285, 302, 326

_Lesseps, De_, 153

Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer (_see_ Saintes Maries)

Le Vigne, 198

_Levis, Guy de_, 200, 201

_Levis-Ajac, François de_, 201

Lézignan, 15

Limoux, 15, 104, 153, 171, 172, 173-174

_Littré_, 76

Llagone, 114

_Lorris, Guillaume de_, 22

_Lothaire_, 122, 124, 128

_Loti, Pierre_, 442

_Louis IX_, 43, 56, 96, 163, 164, 208, 256

_Louis X_, 18, 364

_Louis XI_, 35, 96-97, 116, 119, 123, 124, 126, 181, 330, 338, 369

_Louis XIII_, 97, 112, 116, 123, 140, 189, 209, 359, 397, 433, 437

_Louis XIV_, 23, 73, 108, 136, 140, 142, 182, 189, 228, 275, 347, 398, 430, 432-433

_Louis XV_, 68, 121, 201

_Louis Philippe_, 261

Lourdat, Château de, 39, 177, 209-210

Lourdes and Its Château, 2, 3, 8, 39, 42, 282, 300, 313-317

Louvie-Soubiron, 292

Luchon, 2, 3, 8, 25, 46, 64, 70, 137, 208, 222, 233, 301, 303, 304-306, 323

_Luna, Pierre de_, 116, 124

Lunel, 15

_Luther, Martin_, 327

Luz, 320-321, 322, 323

Luzenac, 209

Lyons, 28

Madrid, 3, 64, 67, 81, 99, 184

Madron, 198

_Majorca, Kings of_, 96, 112, 116, 122, 128

_Mansard_, 23

_Marat_, 369

Marboré, Tours de, 255

_Marca, Pierre de_, 98, 277, 288

Marseilles, 3, 28, 48, 115, 117, 163, 249

Mas d'Azil, 213-214

Mauléon and Its Château, 2, 71, 247-250, 252, 378, 387

_Maupassant, Guy de_, 110

Maures, Château de, 207

_Mazarin_, 439

Mazères and Its Château, 2, 8, 178, 186, 197, 198

_Medici, Catherine de_, 234-235, 366, 367

_Meilleraye, Maréchal de la_, 123

Mende, 185

_Mercier_, 172

_Mérimée, Prosper_, 163

_Mézeray_, 365

_Michaud_, 267

_Mirabel, Château de_, 218

Mirepoix, 184, 193, 200-201

_Moncade Family_, 176, 231

Montauban, 16, 36, 52, 60, 340

Montelimar, 17

_Montesquieu_, 23

_Montfort, Simon de_, 165, 176, 187, 200

_Montgomery_, 311, 313, 339

Montjoie, 214

Mont Louis, 81, 144

_Montmorenci_, 181

Montory, 250

Montpellier, 8, 15, 56

Montréal, Château de, 206, 247, 349

Montrejeau, 222

Montségur, Château de, 201

Morlaas, 2, 261, 284-286

_Nadaud, Gustave_, 162, 170-172, 174

Naples, 125

_Napoleon I_, 30, 71, 293, 400, 447

_Napoleon III_, 263, 423

Narbonne, 15, 55, 120, 127, 152, 153

Nassaure, Château de, 198

Navarre, 1, 9, 28, 46, 62, 76, 176, 186, 231, 240, 281, 354-371, 396, 403

_Navarre Family_, 30, 231, 239, 256, 280, 330-332

Navarreux, 2, 345-348

Navarrino, 81

Nay, 2, 310

Nice, 59, 305

Nîmes, 56, 111

Noailhan, Château de, 218

Nogarède, Château de, 198

Nogent, 42

Notre Dame de Château, 127

Notre Dame de Consolation, 126

Odos, Château d', 302

Oloron, 28, 250, 251, 252, 265, 308, 324-327, 347

_Orphila, Guillaume de Puig de_, 124

_Orth, Vicomte d'_, 416

_Orthe, Vicomtes d'_, 246

Orthez and Its Château, 28, 186, 308, 325, 335-346, 349

Ossun and Its Château, 300-301

Palada, 138

_Palissy, Bernard_, 51

Pamiers, 53, 181, 186, 196, 197, 199-200

Pamplona, 248, 281, 350, 357, 395, 396, 399, 402-404

Paris, 3, 28, 31, 42, 56, 64, 67, 81, 82, 138, 154, 161, 190, 234, 249, 253, 274, 280, 291, 292, 377, 378, 379, 384, 421, 427

Pas de Roland, 405-406

Pau and Its Château, 2, 3, 8, 9, 24, 39, 42, 46, 47, 60, 61, 64, 66, 111, 121, 163, 186, 232, 233, 245, 252, 258-277, 279, 283, 285, 288, 300, 301, 302, 308, 309, 321, 335, 339, 346, 347, 366, 384, 396, 425

_Pau, Guillem de_, 107

_Paul III_, 302

Pave, 127

Pays-de-Fenouillet, 102

Pays-Entre-Deux-Mers, 9

Peille, Château de, 139

_Pentièvre et de Périgord, Comte de_, 232

_Pépin_, 96

Pérorade, 246

Perpignan, 3, 4, 8, 24, 55, 59, 81, 82, 83, 97, 99, 103, 110-121, 124, 127, 131, 133, 134, 140, 144, 155, 184

Perthus, 136

Peyrehorade, 246, 352

_Philippe III_, 176, 188, 438

_Philippe IV_, 122, 200, 356, 364

_Philippe V_, 364

_Pierre IV of Aragon_, 122

Pierrefonds, 42

Planes, 98, 144

_Poitiers, Diane de_, 229, 416

_Pompey_, 56-57, 222

_Pont, De Carsalade du_, 134-135

Porta, 146

Portalet, 81, 253

Porté, 146, 148

Port Vendres, 54

_Pouvillon, Emil_, 172

Prades, 141, 142

Prats-de-Mollo, 4, 7, 81, 139-140

Privas, 185

Puigcerda, 145-146

Pujols, Tour des, 122-123

_Puré, Abbé de_, 277

Puylaurens, Château de, 24, 155

Pyrénées-Occidentales, 48, 50, 59, 80

Pyrénées-Orientales, 9, 48, 54, 79, 80, 89, 102

Quercy, 13

Queribus, Château de, 104

Quié, Château de, 177

Quillan, 140, 152, 154-158

_Rabedos_, 107, 108

_Rameau, Jean_, 172, 264

_René, King_, 117

_Richelieu_, 103, 181, 189, 214, 345, 433

_Rigaud, Hyacinthe_, 118

Rimont, 214

Rivesaltes, 14, 119, 120

Rodes, Château de, 202

_Rohan, Duc de_, 181, 276

_Roland_, 255, 400-401, 405-406

Ronça, 248

Ronçevaux, 51, 81, 82, 346, 395, 400-403, 405

_Ronsard_, 282, 405

_Rostand, Edmond_, 409-411

Rouen, 28, 249, 366

_Rousseau_, 77

_Roussel_, 327

Roussillon, 1, 8, 9, 14, 16, 28, 55, 56, 77, 78-79, 80, 82, 95-129, 166, 367

Roussillon, Château, 118

_Roussillon, Princes of_, 122, 124, 128

Ruscino and Its Château, 39, 98, 118, 127

Sabart, Notre Dame de, 204-205

_St. Abdon_, 119

St. André, 127

_St. Bernard_, 18

St. Bertrand de Comminges and Its Château, 7, 24, 84, 222-227

_St. Bertrand de l'Isle_, 224-227, 228

St. Colome, 293

St. Étienne-de-Baigorry, 397, 399

_St. Galdric_, 119

St. Gaudens, 52, 222

St. Germain, 42

St. Giles, 56

St. Girons, 184, 212, 213, 214-216, 218, 220

_St. Gregoire_, 224

St. Hilaire, 153-154

_St. Hilaire_, 154

St. Jacques de Compostelle, 295

St.-Jean-de-Luz, 54, 63, 64, 378, 379, 417, 425, 428, 429-434, 447

St. Jean-de-Vergues, 196

St. Jean-Pied-de-Port, 9, 28, 71, 81, 346, 350, 352, 357, 387-388, 393-400, 403, 405, 406

_St. Jerome_, 223

St. Lizier and Its Château, 175, 211, 212, 216-218, 220

St. Martin, Abbey of, 132-135

St. Martin-Lys, 156, 158

St. Palais, 350-352

St. Paul-de-Fenouillet, 102

St. Pé-de-Bigorre, 312-313

St. Sauveur, 70, 321, 322, 323

_St. Sennen_, 119

_Sainte-Marthe, Charles de_, 282

Saintes Maries, 55, 88-89, 204, 205

Salces, 120

Salies de Béarn, 5, 70, 71, 127, 343-344, 421

_Saluste, Guillaume_, 50

San Sebastian, 3, 58, 444, 445

Sarrance, 330-332, 334

Saumur, 15

Sauveterre, 347, 348-350

Saverdun, 197, 198

Selx, 218

_Sergius IV_, 133

_Sertorius_, 222

Seville, 3, 99

_Sigismond_, 124

Somport, 334

_Soult, Maréchal_, 341, 343, 447-448

_Sully_, 272

_Sylvestre, Armand_, 172

Tarascon and Its Château, 177, 202-206, 209

Tarbes and Its Château, 3, 8, 266, 279, 297-300, 301, 302, 321, 331, 350

Tardets, 247, 250, 387

Teillery, Château, 412

_Terès, Jean_, 125

_Thiers, M._, 183

Toulouse, 3, 8, 13, 24, 52, 60, 111, 152, 164, 176, 184, 186, 197, 212, 224

Tours, 117

_Trencavel Family_, 165, 170

Ultrera and Its Château, 39, 127

_Urban VIII_, 397

Urdos, 241-243, 253, 334

Urgel, 149

Urrugne, 434, 441

Ussat, 70

Valbonne, Abbey of, 126

Val Carlos, 400-403

Val d'Aran, 48, 52

Vallespir, 122, 140

_Valois, Marguerite de_, 21, 231, 232, 234-235, 261, 267, 281-282, 302, 369-370

_Vauban_, 7, 116, 136, 139, 140, 142, 345, 346, 347, 414, 431

_Verdaguer, Jacinto_, 133-134

Vernet, 70, 143, 323

Vic-Dessos and Its Château, 177, 206

Villefranche and Its Château, 81, 141-143

Villers-Cotterets, 42

_Viollet-le-Duc_, 41, 162, 167, 443

Vittoria, 64

_Voltaire_, 23

_Weber, Jean_, 409

_Wellington_, 63, 341, 343, 447-448

_Young, Arthur_, 262, 351-352

* * * * *

Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:

Pot de vinalgre=> Pot de vinaigre {pg 44}

populous and progressve=> populous and progressive {pg 72}

Prats de Mollo=> Prats-de-Mollo {pg 139}

in-invariably=> invariably {pg 154}

balls bounds around with wool=> balls bound around with wool {pg 183}

Mémoires du Philippe de Commine=> Mémoires de Philippe de Commine {pg 229}

St. Jean-Pied-de-Porte=> St. Jean-Pied-de-Port {pg 357}

resembles neiher the country=> resembles neither the country {pg 380}

analagous position=> analogous position {pg 386}

but a step belond=> but a step beyond {pg 445}

Basses-Pyrénêes=> Basses-Pyrénées {pg 450}

St. Jean-Pied-de-Porte=> St. Jean-Pied-de-Port {pg 357}

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