Chapter 14

PIES AND PUDDINGS.

In vegetarian cookery, as a rule, pies and puddings are made in the same way as in ordinary cookery, with the exception that we cannot use lard or dripping in making our pastry. Nor are we allowed to use suet in making crust for puddings. It would have been quite impossible to have given even one quarter of the recipes for the pies and puddings known, and we must refer those who wish for information on this subject to "Cassell's Shilling Cookery," where will be found a very complete list, but which would have occupied the whole of the space which we have devoted to recipes where vegetarian cookery, as a rule, _differs_ from the ordinary.

We will, on the present occasion, confine our attention to the two points we have mentioned, viz., how to make pastry without lard or dripping, and pudding crust without suet. The first of these two points causes no difficulty whatever, as the best pastry, especially that known as puff paste, is invariably made with butter only as the fatty element; but there is one point we must not overlook.

Vegetarians are divided into two classes: those who use the animal products--butter, milk, cream, and eggs--and those who do not. This latter class contains, probably, the most respected members of the vegetarian body, as it will always be found that there is an involuntary homage paid by all men to consistency. How then are strict vegetarians to make pastry, butter being classed with the forbidden fruit? We fear we cannot tell them how to make good puff paste; but "Necessity is the mother of invention," and naturally olive oil must supply the place of butter.

PASTRY WITHOUT BUTTER.--We will describe how to make a small quantity, which is always best when we make experiments. Take half a pound of the best Vienna flour, and mix with it, while dry, about a salt-spoonful of baking-powder. Now add about a tablespoonful of olive oil, and work the oil and flour together with the fingers exactly as you work a small piece of butter into the flour at the commencement of making puff paste. Next add sufficient water to make the whole into an elastic paste; roll it out and let it set between two tins containing ice, similar to the method used in making high-class pastry.

We have mentioned a tablespoonful of oil, but if ice is used more oil may be added.

We all know that oil will freeze at a much lower temperature than water, consequently the minute particles of oil become partially solid. Now take the paste, roll it out, and give it three turns; roll it out again, give it three more turns, and put it back in the ice; let it stand ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, and repeat this process three times. Be careful to flour the pastry each time before it is turned. By this means we get the pastry in thin layers, with minute air bubbles between them, and this will cause the pastry to rise. If you are making a pie, roll out the pastry the last time, cover the pie, and put it in the oven immediately, while the pastry is cold. Do not let the pastry stand, unless it be in a very cold place.

This pastry we have just described, made with oil, can also be utilised for puddings, in which latter case we would recommend the addition of a little more baking-powder, and to every pound of flour add two tablespoonfuls of very fine bread-crumbs. These must be dry, and rubbed through a fine sieve.

PASTRY WITH BUTTER.--Good puff paste is made by taking equal quantities of butter and flour--say a pound of each--the yolk of one egg, a pinch of salt, while the water used is acidulated with lemon-juice. For the manipulation of this pastry we must refer those who do not know how to make it to other cookery books, or to the shilling one above mentioned. In making ordinary paste we must use less butter; and when we use considerably less butter, if we wish the pastry light, we shall require baking-powder. The quantity depends very much upon the quality. Many persons make their own baking-powder, and we cannot recommend any better than the recipe given in the last chapter, viz., an ounce of tartaric acid, an ounce and a half of bicarbonate of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. A great deal, too, depends upon the quality of the flour. Vienna flour is much more expensive than ordinary flour, but incomparably superior. What limit we can assign to the quantity of butter used it is impossible to say. A quarter of a pound of butter to a pound of flour, and a teaspoonful of baking-powder, will make a fair crust. When less butter is used the result is not altogether satisfactory.

PUDDINGS.--We next come to the very large class of puddings in which suet is used. The ordinary plum pudding is a case in point. The best substitute for suet, of course, is butter or oil; a plum pudding, however, made without suet, would undoubtedly be heavy, and, to avoid this, we must use butter, bread-crumbs, and baking-powder. It would be impossible to give any exact quantity, as so much depends upon the other ingredients. Some people use bread-crumbs only in making plum pudding, and no flour, in which case, of course, a very considerable number of eggs must be used or else the pudding will break to pieces. In the case, however, of oil being used as a substitute for butter, it is of the utmost importance that the oil be pure and fresh. We here have to overcome a deeply-rooted English prejudice. Pure oil is absolutely tasteless, and it has often been remarked by high-class authorities that really pure butter ought to be the same. We fear, however, that purity in food is the exception rather than the rule, as at no period of this country's history has the crime of adulteration been so rampant as in the present day.

Adulteration has been said to be another form of competition. Too often adulteration is a deliberate form of robbery. Steps have been taken in recent years to put a stop to this universal system of fraud, more especially in connection with butter. Were more Acts passed similar to the "Margarine Act" we believe that this country would be richer and happier, and without doubt more healthy.

In that large class of puddings known as custard pudding, cabinet pudding, there is no difference whatever in vegetarian cookery. It would be quite impossible to make any of these puddings without eggs, and when eggs are used we may take for granted that butter is allowed also.

We have, throughout, called particular attention to the importance of appearances. In the case of all puddings made with eggs and baked in a dish, it is a very great improvement to reserve one or two whites of egg, and to beat these to a stiff froth, with a little white powdered sugar. When the pudding is baked, cover it with this snow-white froth, and let it set by placing it in a slack oven for two or three minutes. Whether the pudding is served hot or cold, the result is the same. An otherwise plain and somewhat common-looking dish is transformed into an elegant one, the only extra expense being a little _trouble_.

We may sum up our instructions to cooks in the words: "Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy might."

INDEX.

Allemande Sauce, 44

Almond Cheesecakes, 170 Fritters, 119 Sauce, 44 Sauce, Clear, 45 Soup, 23

Apple Cheesecakes, 170 Custard, 168 Fritters, 118 Jam, 161 Jelly, 161 Sauce, 45 Soup, 24

Apples, Stewed, 172

Apricot Fritters, 119 Jam, 164 Jelly, 163

Apricots Tinned, 155 with Cream, 156

Aromatic Herbs, 32

Arrowroot Sauce, 45

Artichokes, French, 137 a la Provencale, 137 Boiled, 137 Fried, 137 Salad, 102

Artichoke, Jerusalem, 137 Fried, 138 Mashed, 138 Sauce, 45 Soup, 24

Asparagus and Eggs, 85 Boiled, 139 Salad, 101 Sauce, 45 Soup, 24 Tinned, 153

Ayoli, 115

Baking-Powder, 180

Banana Fritters, 119

Barley and Rice Porridge, 75 Soup, 25

Batter for Fritters, 116

Beans, Broad, 139 a la Bourgeoise, 139 a la Poulette, 139 Mashed, 139 Salad, 103 Soup, 27

Beans, French, 139 Pudding, 140 Salad, 102 Soup, 27 Tinned, 154

Beans, Haricot, 131 Salad, 103 Soup, Red, 26 Soup, White, 26

Beetroot Salad, 102 Soup, 26

Beurre Noir, 48

Blackberry Jam, 164 Jelly, 158

Black Butter, 48 and Eggs, 86

Black Currant Jam, 164 Jelly, 160 Sauce, 45

Bread, 180 and Milk, 75 Potato, 129 Sauce, 45 Whole-Meal, 180

Brocoli, 141 Greens, 141

Brown Mushroom Sauce, 55 Onion Sauce, 55

Brown Roux, 22 Thickening, 22

Brussels Sprouts, 141 Tinned, 154

Butter, Black, 48 Maitre d'hotel, 53 Melted, 48 Oiled, 48 Sauce, 46

Cabbage, 142 and Cream, 143 and Rice, 63 large White, 142 Red, 143 Soup, 27

Cakes, 177 Parsnip, 147 Pound, 179

Caper Sauce, 49

Carrot Jam, 164 Sauce, 49 Soup, 27

Carrots, Boiled, 143 Fried, 144 Mashed, 144 Tinned, 154

Cauliflower and Tomato Sauce, 145 au gratin, 144 Boiled, 144 Salad, 104 Sauce, 49 Soup, 28

Casseroles, 64

Celery and Eggs, 85 Salad, 103 Sauce, 49 Soup, 29 Stewed, 145

Cheesecakes, 165-168 Almond, 170 Apple, 170 from Curds, 169 Orange, 170 Potato, 169

Cheese and Eggs, 89 and Fried Bread, 113 and Rice, 63 Devilled, 114 Fritters, 117

Cheese Ramequins, 114 Sandwiches, 107 Savoury, 113 Souffle, 92 Soup, 29 Stewed, 114 Straws, 114 Toasted, 114

Cherry Sauce, 49 Soup, 29

Cherries, Stewed, 174

Chestnut Sauce, 49 Soup, 30

Chestnuts and Macaroni, 72

Chocolate Cream, 166 Fritters, 119

Chutney Sauce, 53

Cinnamon Sauce, 49

Clear Soup, 30

Cocoanut Sauce, 49 Soup, 31

Coffee Cream, 166 Fritters, 119

Cottage Soup, 30

Cream and Macaroni, 73 Cheese Sandwiches, 107 Chocolate, 166 Coffee, 166 Fritters, 120 Lemon, 166 Maraschino, 166 Orange, 166 Pistachio, 167 Strawberry, 167 Vanilla, 166

Creams, 165

Croquettes, Potato, 127 Rice, 65

Cucumber and Eggs, 88 Salad, 102 Sauce, 49

Currant Sauce, Black, 50 Red, 50 Black, Jam, 164 Black, Jelly, 160 Red, Jam, 164 Red, Jelly, 161

Curried Eggs, 82 Lentils, 136 Rice 63 Vegetables, 151

Curry Sauce, 50

Custard, Apple, 168 Cheap, 168 Fritters, 119

Custards, 167

Cutlets, Potato, 127

Damson Jam, 164 Jelly, 162

Dandelion Salad, 103

Devilled Cheese, 114 Eggs, 82

Dutch Sauce, 51 Green, 51

Egg Balls, 83 Forcemeat, 83 Salad, 99 Sandwiches, 106 Sauce, 51 Toast, 85

Eggs, 78 a la bonne femme, 8 a la Dauphine, 85 a la tripe, 83 and Asparagus, 85 Black Butter, 86 Celery, 85 Cheese, 89 Cucumber, 88 Garlic, 86 Mushrooms, 86 Onions, 87 Potatoes, 87 Rice, 66 Sauce Robert, 87 Sorrel, 87 Spinach, 85 Turnip-tops, 85 au gratin, 84 Boiled, 78 Hard, 81 Broiled, 87 Buttered, 88 Curried, 82 Devilled, 82 Fried, 80 in Sunshine, 88 Little, 89 Poached, 81 Scrambled, 88 To Break, 80

Endive, 145 Salad, 100 Soup, 31

English Salad, 97

Extract of Spinach, 25

Fennel Sauce, 51

Flageolets, 133 Tinned, 154

Fond d'Artichokes, 155

Forcemeat of Egg, 83 of Mushroom, 110

Frangipane Fritters, 120

French Beans, 139 Bean Salad, 102 Soup, 27 Pudding, 140 Salad, 97

Fritters, 116 Almond, 119 Apple, 118 Apricot, 119 Banana, 119 Batter for, 116 Cheese, 117 Chocolate, 119 Coffee, 119 Cream, 120 Custard, 119 Frangipane, 120 Game, 117 German, 121 Ginger and Rice, 121 Hominy, 117 Mushroom, 116 Orange, 120 Pine Apple, 120 Peach, 120 Potato, 120 Rice, 121 Sage and Onion, 118 Spinach, 118 Sweet, 118 Tomato, 117 Vanilla, 119

Fruit, Compote of, 171 Soup, 31 Stewed, 171

Fruits, Bottled, 157 Tinned, 155

Frumenty, 76

Game Fritters, 117

Garlic and Eggs, 86

Garnish of Eggs, 89

German Fritters, 121 Salad, 100 Sauce, 51

Ginger Sauce, 52

Gooseberry Sauce, 52

Gooseberries, Stewed, 173

Green Bean Soup, 27 Dutch Sauce, 51 Mayonnaise Sauce, 54 Pea Soup, Dried, 37 Fresh, 38

Hare Soup, 32 Haricot Beans, 131 Bean Salad, 103 Soup, Red, 26 White, 26

Herbaceous Mixture, 32

Herbs, Aromatic, 32

Hominy, 76 Fried, 76 Fritters, 117

Hop Salad, 104

Horseradish Sauce, 52

Hotch Potch, 32

Ice Cream, 176 Lemon Water, 176 Orange Water, 176 Water Fruit, 177

Ices, 174 from Fresh Fruit, 176 from Jams, 176

Indian Pickle Sauce, 53 Sandwiches, 106

Italian Salad, 104 Sauce, 53

Jam Apple, 161 Apricot, 164 Blackberry, 164 Black Currant, 164 Carrot, 164 Damson, 164 Gooseberry, 164 Greengage, 164 Plum, 164 Raspberry, 164 Red Currant, 164 Rhubarb, 164 Strawberry, 164 Vegetable Marrow, 164

Jams, 163

Jardiniere Soup, 33

Jellies, 158

Jelly, Apple, 161 Apricot, 163 Blackberry, 158 Black Currant, 160 Damson, 162 Lemon, 159 Mulberry, 163 Orange, 160 Pine Apple, 162 Raspberry, 161 Red Currant, 161

Julienne Soup, 33

Kale, Scotch, 148 Sea, 148

Leek Soup, 33

Leeks, Stewed, 145 Welsh Porridge, 146

Lemon Cream, 166 Jelly, 159 Water, Ice, 176

Lentil Porridge, 75 Puree a la Soubise, 34 Soup, 33

Lentils, 135 a la a Provencale, 136 Boiled, 136 Curried, 136

Lettuce Salad, 97

Lettuces, Stewed, 146 with Peas, 146

Macaroni, 67 a la Reine, 69 and Cheese, 68 Chestnuts, 72 Cream, 73 Eggs, 69 Tomatoes, 72 as an Ornament, 70 au gratin, 69 Italian Fashion, 68 Nudels, 71 Savoury, 72 Scolloped, 70 Soup, Clear, 34 Soup, Thick, 34 Timbale of, 70

Macedoines, 155

Maitre d'hotel Sauce, 53 Butter, 53

Mango Chutney Sauce, 53

Maraschino Cream, 166

Mayonnaise Salad, 98 Sauce, 53 Sauce, Green, 54

Melon Salad, 105

Milk Porridge, 75 Soup, 35 Toast, 77

Mint Sauce, 54

Mock Turtle Soup, 35

Mulberry Jelly, 163

Mulligatawny Soup, 35

Mushroom, Essence of, 44 Forcemeat, 110 Fritters, 116 Pie, 110 Cold, 110 Pudding, 111 Puree of, 55 Sandwiches, 106 Sauce, 54 Brown, 55

Mushrooms, 108 a la Bordelaise, 110 a la Provencale, 110 and Eggs, 86 au gratin, 109 Fried, 109 Plain, 108

Mustard Sauce, 55

Mustard and Cress, 104 Sandwiches, 106

Nalesnikis, 116

Nettles, To Boil, 151

Oatmeal Porridge, 73

Oiled Butter, 48

Omelet au Kirsch, 95 au Rhum, 95 Cheese, 92 Fine Herbs, 92 Onion, 92 Plain, 91 Potato, 92 Potato, Sweet, 92 Souffle, 93 Sweet, 94 Vegetable, 95 with Jam, 94

Omelets, 89

Onion Omelet, 92 Salad, 104 Sauce, 55 Brown, 55 Soup, 35 Brown, 36

Onions and Eggs, 87 Baked, 146 Plain, 146 Stewed, 147 Stuffed, 115

Orange Cheesecakes, 170 Cream, 166 Fritters, 120 Jelly, 160 Sauce, 56 Water Ice, 176

Ox-tail Soup, 36

Palestine Soup, 24

Pancakes, Polish, 116

Parsley Sauce, 56 To Blanch, 26

Parsnip Cake, 147 Soup, 36

Parsnips, 147 Fried, 147 Mashed, 147

Paste for Pies, 184. Puddings, 185. without Butter, 183.

Peach Fritters, 120

Peaches, Tinned, 156

Peaches with Cream, 156

Pea Soup, Dried Green, 37 Split Peas, 37 Fresh Green, 38

Peas, Boiled, 148 Brose, 134 Dried, 133 Dried Green with Cream, 135 Dried whole Green, 134 Green, 148 Pudding, 134 Stewed, 148 Tinned, 153

Pear Soup, 37

Pears, Stewed, 173 Tinned, 156

Pie, Mushroom, 110 Mushroom, Cold, 111 Potato, 112 Pumpkin, 113

Pies and Puddings, General, 183 Paste for, 184.

Pine Apple Fritters, 120 Ice, 177 Jelly, 162 Sauce, 56 Tinned, 156

Piroski Sernikis, 116

Pistachio Cream, 167

Plum Jam, 164 Sauce, 56

Plums, Stewed, 174

Polenta, 115

Poached Eggs, 81

Poivrade Sauce, 57

Polish Pancakes, 116

Porridge, Barley and Rice, 75 Milk, 75 Lentil, 75 Oatmeal, 73 Sago, 77 Whole Meal, 75

Potato Balls, 127 Biscuits, 129 Border, 128 Bread, 129 Cake, 129 Cheese, 130 Cheesecake, 169 Chips, 126 Croquettes, 127 Fritters, 120 Omelet, 92 Omelet, Sweet, 92 Ribbon, 126 Salad, 101 Soup, 38

Potatoes and Eggs, 87 a la Barigoule, 130 a la Lyonnaise, 131 a la Maitre d'hotel, 127 a la Provencale, 131 Baked, 125 Boiled, 123 Broiled, 131 Fried, 126 Mashed, 125 New, 127 Saute, 126 Steamed, 124

Pound Cake, 179

Prune Sauce, 57

Prunes, Stewed, 173

Pudding, Cheese, 114 French Bean, 140 Mushroom, 111 Peas, 134 Pumpkin, 113

Puddings, 182

Pumpkin a la Parmesane, 115 Pie, 113 Pudding, 113 Soup, 39

Puree, Endive, 31 Lentils, 34 Mushroom, 55 of Beans, Red, 26, of Beans, White, 26 of Chestnuts, 30 Sorrel, 58

Rarebit, Welsh, 115

Raspberry Ice, 176 Jam, 164 Jelly, 161 Sauce, 57

Ramequins, Cheese, 114

Ratafia Sauce, 57

Ravigotte Sauce, 57

Red Currant Jam, 164 Jelly, 161 Sauce, 50

Red Haricot Bean Soup, 26

Rhubarb Soup, 39 Stewed, 173

Rice, 60 and Barley Porridge, 75 and Cabbage, 63 and Cheese, 63 and Eggs, 66 and Ginger Fritters, 121 and Tomatoes, 66 Boiled, 61 Border, 64 Croquettes, 65 Curried, 63 Fritters, 121 Soup, 39 Soup a la Royale, 39

Risotto, 62

Robert Sauce, 58

Roux, Brown, 22 White, 22

Sage and Onion Fritters, 118

Sago Porridge, 77 Soup, 40

Salad, Artichoke, 102 Asparagus, 101 Bean, Broad, 103 Bean, Haricot, 103 Beetroot, 102 Cauliflower, 104 Celery, 103 Cucumber, 102 Dandelion, 103 Egg, 99 Endive, 100 English, 97 French, 97 French Beans, 102 German, 100 Hop, 104 Italian, 104 Mayonnaise, 98 Melon, 105 Mixed, 98 Mustard and Cress, 104 Onion, 104 Potato, 101 Salsify, 101 Sweet, 105 Tomato, 99 Water-cress, 103

Salads, 96

Salsify, Boiled, 151 Salad, 101

Sandwiches, 105 Cheese, 107 Cream Cheese, 107 Egg, 106 Indian, 106 Mushroom, 106 Mustard and Cress, 106 Tomato, 105

Sauce, Allemande, 44 Almond, 44 Almond, Clear, 45 Apple, 45 Arrowroot, 45 Artichoke, 45 Asparagus, 45 Bread, 45 Butter, 46 Butter, Black, 48 Butter, Oiled, 48 Caper, 49 Carrot, 49 Cauliflower, 49 Celery, 49 Cherry, 49 Chestnut, 49 Cinnamon, 49 Cocoa-nut, 49 Cucumber, 49 Currant, Black, 50 Currant, Red, 50 Curry, 50 Dutch, 51 Green, 51 Egg, 51 Fennel, 51 German Sweet, 51 Ginger, 52 Gooseberry, 52 Horseradish, 52 Indian Pickle, 53 Italian, 53 Maitre d'hotel, 53 Mango Chutney, 53 Mayonnaise, 53 Green, 54 Mint, 54 Mushroom, 54 Brown, 55 Puree, 55 Mustard, 55 Onion, 55 Brown, 55 Orange Cream, 56 Parsley, 56 Pine Apple, 56 Plum, 56 Poivrade, 57 Prune, 57 Radish, 57 Raspberry, 57 Ratafia, 57 Ravigotte, 57 Robert, 58 Sorrel, 58 Soubise, 58 Sweet, 58 Tarragon, 58 Tartar, 58 Tomato, 59 Truffle, 59 Vanilla, 59 White, 59

Sauces, 44

Savoury Rice, 66

Scotch Broth, 40 Kale, 148

Sea Kale, 148 Soup, 40

Sorrel Sauce, 58 Soup, 40

Soubise Sauce, 58

Souffle, Cheese, 92 Omelet, 93

Soup, Almond, 23 Apple, 24 Artichoke, 24 Asparagus, 24 Barley, 25 Bean, French, 27 Green, 27 Haricot, Red, 26 Haricot, White 26 Beetroot, 26 Cabbage, 27 Carrot, 27 Cauliflower, 28 Celery, 29 Cheese, 29 Cherry, 29 Chestnut, 30 Clear, 30 Cocoanut, 31 Cottage, 30 Endive, 31 Fruit, 31 Green Pea, Dried, 37 Fresh, 38 Hare, 32 Hotch Potch, 32 Jardiniere, 33 Julienne, 33 Leek, 33 Lentil, 33 Lentil a la Soubise, 34 Macaroni, Clear, 34 Thick, 34 Milk, 35 Mock Turtle, 35 Mulligatawny, 35 Onion, 35 Brown, 36 Ox-tail, 36 Palestine, 24 Parsnip, 36 Pear, 37 Pea, Split, 37 Green, Dried, 37 Fresh, 38 Potato, 38 Pumpkin, 39 Rhubarb, 39 Rice, 39 a la Royale, 39 Sago, 40 Scotch Broth, 40 Sea Kale, 40 Sorrel, 40 Spinach, 41 Tapioca, 41 Tomato, 41 Turnip, 42 Vegetable, 33 Marrow, 42 Vermicelli, 42 White, 42 White, 43

Soups, 23 General Instructions, 17

Sparghetti, 67

Spinach, 149 and Eggs, 85 Extract of, 25 Fritters, 118 Soup, 41 Tinned, 154

Stock, 21

Strawberry Cream, 167 Ice, 176 Jam, 164

Sweet Fritters, 118 Omelet, 94 Salads, 105 Sauce, 58 German, 51

Tagliatelli, 73

Tapioca Soup, 41

Tarragon Sauce, 58

Tartar Sauce, 58

Thickening, Brown, 22 White, 22

Timbale of Macaroni, 70

Toast, Egg, 85 Milk, 77

Tomato Fritters, 117 Pie, 112 Salad, 99 Sandwiches, 105 Sauce, 59 Soup, 41

Tomatoes and Macaroni, 72 and Rice, 66 au Gratin, 111 Baked, 111 Fried, 111 Grilled, 111 Stewed, 111

Truffle Sauce, 59

Turnip Soup, 42 -tops, 151 and Eggs, 85

Turnips, Boiled, 150 Mashed, 150 Ornamental, 150 Tinned, 155

Vanilla Cream, 166 Fritters, 119 Ice, 176 Sauce, 59

Vegetable Curry, 151 Marrow, 149 Soup, 42 Stuffed, 149 Omelet, 95 Soup, 42

Vegetables, Fresh, 137 Preserved, 152 Substantial, 122

Vermicelli Soup, 42 Thick, 42

Water-cress Salad, 103

Welsh Porridge, 146 Rarebit, 115

White Haricot Bean Salad, 103 Soup, 26 Roux, 22 Sauce, 59 Soup, 43 Thickening, 22

Whole-meal Bread, 180 Porridge, 75

Zucchetti Farcis, 115

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Manchester--93, Market Street.

Birmingham--Quadrant.

Liverpool--4, Church Street, Winston Buildings, and 62 London Road.

Preston--104, Fishergate.

Bristol--33, Corn Street.

Brighton--148, North Street.

Hastings--Robertson Street, and Havelock Road.