Chapter 1

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CAPE COD and ALL the PILGRIM LAND

A Monthly Magazine Devoted to the Interests of Southeastern Massachusetts

Entered as Second Class Matter at the Post Office at HYANNIS, MASS.

JUNE 1922 Volume 6, Number 4

PUBLISHED BY THE CAPE COD PUBLISHING CO., Inc. HYANNIS, MASS

Lemuel C. Hall, Editor Charles L Gifford, Business Mgr

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CONTENTS

FROM THE PUBLISHER'S DESK

FRONTISPIECE--Dancing on the Sands

THE PORTAL OF THE CAPE--L.C. Hall

WHERE SHALL I SPEND MY VACATION

WELLFLEET--Edward L. Smith

A SQUEAK FOR A LIFE--P.T. Chamberlain

CAPE TROUT STREAMS.

OCEAN TRAVELS--Emma M. Pray

EDITORIALS

"CONCLUSIVE EVIDENCE"--E.M. Chase

"BY HEART"--Lillian E. Andrews.

"BY TELEPHONE"--E.M. Chase.

FALMOUTH INNER HARBOR

"BASS RIVER"--Arethusa

CAPE COD NOTES

A DELAYED LETTER

A MILLION QUARTS OF STRAWBERRIES

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FOR AUTO TOURISTS

The following tourist routes from Boston to points in Pilgrim Land will be found useful to autoists:

BOSTON TO BUZZARDS BAY VIA BROCKTON

0.0 Park Square, westerly on Boylston Street, bearing left on Huntington Avenue at Copley Square.

1.1 Turn right on Massachusetts Avenue and bear left on Westland Avenue.

1.4 Pass through entrance to Fenway, curving left and bearing right at Y.

1.6 Y, after crossing stone bridge, keep left.

1.9 Y, bear left across stone bridge; turning right and crossing Brookline Avenue.

2.9 Y, bear slightly left, crossing Brookline Avenue.

3.3 Cross Huntington Avenue and enter Jamaica Way.

4.4 Jamaica Pond on right; bear right on Pond Street, but at Y keep left on Jamaica Way.

5.9 After passing Arnold Arboretum on right, jog right and left into Morton Street, passing under railroad and continuing on Morton Street, to

6.3 Y, keep right on Morton Street.

7.9 Turn right on Blue Hill Avenue and follow trolley to

9.1 Mattapan Square. Straight ahead over bridge, bearing left on Blue Hills Parkway.

9.5 Y, turn left and follow trolley on Brook Road.

10.2 Junction of five roads, turn right on White Street.

10.5 Through five corners, running into Reedsdale Road.

11.1 Four corners, turn right on Randolph Avenue, with trolleys.

17.4 Randolph, five corners, bear right with trolley.

19.5 Avon. Pass monument on left, follow trolley.

23.4 Brockton. Straight ahead on Main Street.

27.8 W. Bridgewater. Turn left at monument, following trolley.

30.5 Bridgewater. Straight through.

39.1 Middleboro. Turn left with trolley.

50.6 Tremont. Follow trolley.

54.4 Wareham. Straight ahead, turn left with trolley over bridge.

57.1 E. Wareham. Turn right at garage; cross railroad at Onset Junction; follow trolley.

58.4 Onset. Follow trolley.

61.1 Buzzards Bay.

BUZZARDS BAY TO PROVINCETOWN

0.0 Buzzards Bay station on right; straight ahead, avoiding left-hand roads.

5.4 Three corners, turn right over canal bridge.

5.7 Sagamore. Straight ahead, turning left at end of road.

8.0 Sandwich. Curve left.

19.4 Barnstable. Straight ahead.

22.9 Yarmouthport. Straight ahead.

27.4 Dennis. Straight ahead.

32.8 Brewster. Straight ahead.

39.7 Orleans. Straight ahead.

43.5 Eastham. Straight ahead.

52.7 Wellfleet. Straight ahead around curves.

57.6 Truro. Straight ahead.

67.5 Provincetown.

BUZZARDS BAY TO PROVINCETOWN VIA FALMOUTH

0.0 Buzzards Bay. Railroad station on right; go straight ahead.

0.7 Turn right over bridge across canal; turn sharp right at store.

3.5 Monument Beach. Turn left, passing railroad station; straight ahead.

16.4 Falmouth. Turn left at park.

26.2 Mashpee. Straight through.

32.7 Marston Mills. Bear right up grade.

34.0 For Cotuit, bear right.

35.3 Osterville. Y, bear left through irregular four corners.

37.1 Centerville. Straight ahead, but at end of road, turn left.

42.0 Hyannis. Straight ahead.

47.1 S. Yarmouth. Turn sharp right and cross bridge.

48.5 W. Dennis. Straight ahead, bearing right at Y.

51.0 W. Harwich. Straight ahead.

53.8 Harwichport. Straight ahead.

60.4 Chatham. Just before reaching village, turn left at white church.

69.1 Orleans. Bear right at irregular four corners and follow macadam road to

96.9 Provincetown.

SAGAMORE TO PLYMOUTH

Keep straight ahead after crossing canal bridge. Good road all the way to Plymouth.

BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH

0.0 Boston. Park Square. Follow route given above to Mattapan Square.

9.1 Mattapan Square. Straight ahead over bridge, bearing left on Blue Hills Parkway. Y, turn left and follow trolley on Brook Road, cross Central Avenue and bear left on Brook Road. End of Brook Road, curve left to Adams Street.

12.4 E. Milton. Cross railroad and keep straight ahead.

14.7 Quincy. Washington Square, curve left with trolley.

21.1 Hingham. Railroad station on right; straight ahead with trolley to Y at top of grade, bear right on Summer Street, leaving trolley.

26.1 Cohasset. Railroad station on right; four corner, straight ahead.

27.9 N. Scituate. Cross railroad; straight on to

38.2 Marshfield. Turn right on Moraine Street.

46.8 Kingston. Cross railroad, follow trolley to

51.2 Plymouth.

"Y" means the fork of two roads.

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NOTE--The map plainly shows the routes that can be taken by automobiles on the Cape. The red lines show state highways and macadam roads. Any road marked in red can be safely taken. Patronize the garages, hotels and stores on this sheet. THEY ARE RELIABLE AND GOOD.

[Transcriber's Note: Map missing from original text.]

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FROM THE PUBLISHERS' DESK

THE MAN WHO WANTS TO DO IT ALL

You're to blame if your mind is wasting time. It does the work you select.

Fill your head with trifles and there'll be no space for big things. Hack ideas occupy as much room as thoroughbred inspirations. Unimportant details frequently require as much attention as constructive plans.

Proportion is the sixth sense and without it the other five are practically useless.

Apply your days discreetly--don't do anything which you can hire somebody else to execute for you. Concentrate on paying propositions. Aside from the arts and fine crafts, nobody ever got far single-handed.

Delegate the lesser duties to assistants. Let them make an occasional mistake. If you're saving your thoughts for the responsibility of management a few inaccuracies in the organization won't amount to much.

Differentiate between incidents and issues.

One can't lead and follow simultaneously.

Rely on subordinates. You can't be the whole works.

As the head of the concern, you're the highest priced employee. Figure your hour value and invest it accordingly. Triphammers may drive tacks, but not profitably. The operation is too expensive for the return.

Thoroughness is an admirable quality when intelligently exercised, but a folly when the game isn't worth the candle.

You're a good bargainer but you make bad deals despite the concessions secured if the final terms represent a reduction which does not cover the cost of your energy.

You can hire folk to handle most interviews and satisfy the demands of the average caller.

Correspondence clerks can read and answer the greater part of the mail.

One letter in twenty deserves your consideration--the nineteen are merely routine communications which should never come under your notice.

Study the future; observe the trend of events--weigh conditions. Success is the servant of forethought and you won't be able to measure possibilities except you have free moments to reflect and scheme.

Get the dimes out of our eyes and find where the thousands are located.

Engage experts to purchase supplies and run systems--reserve yourself for decisive matters; that's real economy.

Hold the throttle--watch the gauge and signals or there will be a wreck and you'll be in it.

Stick to your cab, keep the schedule. The engineer who tries to be fireman, conductor and brakeman as well, is headed for a smash.

"THE PORTAL OF THE CAPE"

L.C. HALL

The present town of Bourne can claim many interesting facts about its early history although not for 200 years after the coming of the Pilgrims did it become a separate town. It was included within the limits of the town of Sandwich until the comparatively recent date of 1884.

In 1622 Governor Bradford visited the Indian village of Manomet, so called in their language, but which became corrupted into Monument, a name by which the place was long known. It is probable that the reason of the visit was partly for the purpose of establishing a short cut between Buzzards Bay and Plymouth, via the Manomet (or Monument) River.

This river, now obliterated by the Cape Cod canal, had its origin in Great Herring Pond in the Plymouth woods and flowed by a rather circuitous route into Buzzards Bay at a point near the present railroad bridge over the canal.

It was in 1627 that the colonists established a trading post on the banks of this river, the exact point being known and marked. It was on the south side of the river a short distance south of the Bourne bridge spanning the canal. This structure was built for the purpose of facilitating their intercourse with the Narragansett country, New Amsterdam (New York), and the shores of Long Island sound. By transporting their goods up the creek from Scusset harbor (Sandwich) and transferring them to what is now Bournedale by land, they reached the boatable waters of the Manomet (or Monument) river and the open waters of Buzzards Bay.

Governor Bradford says; "For our greater convenience of trade, to discharge our engagements, and to maintain ourselves, we built a small pinnace at Manomet, a place on the sea, twenty miles to the south, to which by another creek on this side, we transport our goods by water within four or five miles and then carry them overland to the vessel; thereby avoiding the compassing of Cape Cod with those dangerous shoals, and make our voyage to the southward with far less time and hazzard. For the safety of our vessel and our goods we also there built a house and keep some servants, who plant corn, raise swine, and are always ready to go out with the bark--which takes good effect and turns to advantage."

The first communication between the Plymouth colony and the Dutch at Fort Amsterdam was through this post. With a ship load of sugar, linen and food stuffs, De Razier, the noted merchant, arrived at Manomet in September, 1627, and Governor Bradford sent a boat to Scusset harbor to convey him to Plymouth. There the trading was done and the first merchandising venture of New England consummated.

In 1635 a tidal wave swept over this part of the Cape on the 15th of August, destroying the trading post and partially filling the river with sand.

When the white men came Bourne contained other Indian hamlets beside Manomet. At the south was Pokesit (Pocasset) and still to the south was Kitteaumut (Cataumet), while to the north of all these was Comasskumkanit, the home of the Herring pond Indians.

Bourne is the first town reached when driving Capeward. After passing through Wareham from the west and nearing Buzzards Bay, Cape Cod and the town of Bourne is entered after passing over the new concrete bridge over Cohasset Narrows, the most northerly arm of Buzzards Bay. This fine concrete structure, completed last year at an expense of about a quarter of a million dollars, is really the "Portal of the Cape," although there is another way to reach it from the direction of Plymouth, also passing through the town of Bourne.

The village of Buzzards Bay is a railroad junction point and there the Cape Cod canal makes its exit into Buzzards Bay. Thence to Bourne proper is only about a mile. Bourne, the village, is intersected by the canal and is connected by the highway bridge over the canal. There are two main highways following the course of the canal. The one on the north side follows its course most of the way, passing the village of Bournedale, thence to Sagamore, by crossing over the easterly canal bridge. The other road is on the south side of the canal and the two join at Sagamore village, where a single main road runs to the Sandwich line and the central and lower Cape.

Southerly the town extends toward Falmouth and along the line of the Woods Hole branch railroad lie the summer resort villages of Monument Beach, Pocasset and Cataumet. These resorts are popular from their sightly location along the shores of Buzzards Bay. The views are entrancing, the waters of the bay are suitable for warm sea bathing and boating is here a sport that is at its best. Back of these villages lie woodlands extending easterly to Sandwich and Mashpee.

Among the pioneers of Bourne are recognized Ebenezer Nye, John Smith, Elisha Bourne, John Gibbs, Jr., Benjamin Gibbs and others who followed them. The land was purchased from the Indians and permanent homes were early established there.

In 1717 a unique proposal was made in the General Court for the assessment of the towns on the Cape for the building and maintenance of a fence from Peaked Hill cliffs on the Massachusetts bay side to the head waters of Buzzards bay on the other side, to keep the wolves of Plymouth county from invading Barnstable county where they destroyed sheep and caused other destruction. Had the project gone through it would have been a practical fencing off of the entire Cape from the rest of the continent.

Probably the thing of greatest interest to tourists today in the town of Bourne is the Cape Cod canal. It completely bisects the town along its eight mile course through the land and is of never failing interest to all strangers. Traffic passing through, consisting of tugs towing barges, colliers, of large and small tonnage, freight boats and occasional government craft can be seen at close view from the highways on either side and from the bridges that span the canal. The opening and closing of the two huge jack-knife bridges is seldom without interested spectators during daylight hours.

At night the canal is brilliantly lighted along its banks and the passage through of the big New York boat is a sight that attracts a great many people. The value of the canal to the system of national defense was demonstrated during the war and a bill is now before Congress for the purchase of it and for its operation by the war department. Probabilities point to much greater development under government ownership when it will probably be widened and deepened and there is a possibility that locks will be installed to regulate the rushing current that now more or less hampers navigation.

The people of Bourne foresee advantages to their town through these contemplated developments and hope for the establishment of a landing place which will provide terminal facilities for steamers handling passengers and freight.

Aside from its extensive summer business along the shores of Buzzards bay and its popular colony at Sagamore Beach on Cape Cod bay, Bourne has comparatively little commercial activity. One large manufacturing plant exists at Sagamore where the Keith Car and Manufacturing Company is located and gives employment to a large number of men. There freight cars are built and repaired under the management of Eben S.S. Keith, a former member of the Governor's council and one of the leading citizens of the Cape.

Bourne enjoys the distinction of being a former summer capital of the country. When Grover Cleveland was president of the United States he established his summer home at Gray Gables, near Buzzards Bay village, and there was transacted the government's business during his stay there. Gray Gables is still owned by his widow although it is no longer occupied by her.

Another distinguished resident of Bourne was the late Joseph Jefferson, the veteran actor, whose palatial residence "Crows' Nest" on Buttermilk bay was one of the show places of the section. In a little cemetery, just over the town line in Sandwich his body now reposes, marked with a huge bowlder which he picked out during his life time to mark his grave. Mr. Cleveland and Mr. Jefferson were close and intimate friends and companions upon fishing trips about Cape Cod territory.

Bourne, not "that bourne from whence no traveller returns," but Bourne, the "Portal to Cape Cod," is a large and interesting town. Within its limits abide many summer residents, occupying large and small cottages and estates of refinement and beauty. It has many drives of sylvan beauty, through shaded roads, by emerald ponds, and over hills and through vales, commanding views of placid and glimmering Buzzards bay and the broad reaches of Cape Cod bay on its northerly side. Like other Cape Cod towns, it has a history of maritime adventure behind it and a glorious future as a summer resting place before it. The possibilities of its shores have scarcely begun to be developed.

We need not admonish all who visit Cape Cod to "see Bourne" for those who visit the Cape cannot possibly escape it unless they come by boat or flying machine. In order to reach the Cape, Bourne must necessarily be encountered and those who tarry there will find the time well spent.

WHERE SHALL I SPEND MY VACATION

Where shall I spend my vacation? This is the question that thousands of people are asking themselves today. Since half the fun of a vacation is the anticipation of it, the planning of it is something that needs to be given consideration.

It might be asked, "why take a vacation?" and that question might be answered by asking, "Why sleep, and why eat?" for vacations are necessary parts of peoples' lives and those who have never known the joys of them have never truly lived.

Vacations help to keep people young, they help to broaden their views and renew their bodily and mental vigor.

A vacation does not necessarily have to be expensive. Any change of environment will do, but it is much more pleasurable to meet new scenes and breathe new atmospheres. Whether one depends upon the trains for transportation, or the boats, or automobiles and whether one stops at the hotels, at the boarding houses or camps, depends largely upon one's circumstances and inclination.

Ideas of vacations vary. Some delight in visiting the most sumptuous hotels, to indulge in social intercourse and to enjoy complete relaxation. Others like to live the strenuous life, to rough it in camp and woods and field.

No matter what the desires are all of them can be culminated upon Cape Cod.

So the answer to the question of our caption is, "spend it on Cape Cod."

In a little more detail it may be said that Cape Cod has all the attributes of an ideal vacation spot. It can be reached over smooth highways which present no difficulties to the motorist. It can be reached by train or boat, or even by flying machine if one so desires. When reached a variety of entertainment may be found to suit all tastes. There is Old Ocean everywhere, surging restlessly upon the shores or lying placid in the bays and inlets. Those who enjoy boating and bathing can indulge in those pleasures to their heart's content. If they enjoy beautiful scenery, green trees, blue waters, level spaces or hilly vistas, Cape Cod has them all.

If they wish to stop in modern hotels, to receive service of the most exuberant kind, to be entertained royally, the hotels of Cape Cod will answer their purpose.

If they like to fish, to camp, to live an out door life, indulge in golf, tennis, or other games, Cape Cod can furnish them with the opportunity.

If they search for the quaint and curious they can find it; if they want to visit a section rich in Colonial history, to visit spots where the Pilgrim Fathers trod, Cape Cod is the only place where such can be found.

To particularize as to the attractions of different parts of the Cape the following brief summary may serve to help solve the vacation problem.

Provincetown--At the tip end of the Cape, except for a narrow strip of land entirely surrounded by water. It has all the attractions of an island and none of its disadvantages. The town is quaint in its architecture, unique in its surroundings and especially attractive to artists who form a large part of the summer colony there. It is the summer rendevouz of the North Atlantic fleet of the U.S. Navy and the home port of a large fishing fleet. It has excellent hotels, and rooms and board may be obtained in many private families. It may be reached by boat from Boston, by train or by automobile.

Truro and Highland Light--Highland Light is located upon a high bluff overlooking the broad Atlantic in the town of Truro. The topography of Truro is distinctive and picturesque with sand dunes, rolling hills and salty marshes. Golf links and good fishing.

Wellfleet--Wellfleet is a pretty village in which there are good hotels, a land locked harbor, and plenty of shell fish. Many summer residents have their homes there and it is a favorite camping place.

Eastham--A town on the lower part of the Cape, quiet and pastoral. An ideal place for campers and cottagers.

Orleans--By many considered one of the prettiest places on Cape Cod. Has hotels and can provide for many boarders in private families. A fine place for boating and picnics.

Brewster--A quiet and peaceful rural town bordering on the bay. Contains many beautiful ponds within its limits and provides excellent bathing and fishing.

Chatham--A summer resort town of growing popularity. Has several first class hotels and numerous cottages. It is located at the elbow of the Cape, fronts on the Atlantic ocean and has many safe bays and inlets for boating and bathing. It is noted for its golf links and is destined to become the summer center for golfing enthusiasts.

Harwich--Consists of numerous villages all of which are attractive for summer residence. It borders on Nantucket sound, has fine beaches, summer hotels and cottages. It has a community life in summer that is not surpassed anywhere.

Dennis--This town reaches entirely across the Cape and is split up into several villages. On the south side it is bordered by Nantucket sound and on the north by Massachusetts bay. Has excellent summer hotels and good bathing and fishing.

Yarmouth--A town with quiet and shady streets, sloping shores and many old residences. One of the historic towns of the regions and presents a variety of attractions.

Barnstable--The county seat and largest town on the Cape. Attractions exceedingly varied. Noted for the excellence of its clams.

Hyannis--Known as the Metropolis of the Cape. It is a center for summer business. Here are to be found excellent hotels, good stores and attractive tea rooms. Its main street is lined with summer stores which are branches of New York and Boston's exclusive shops. Adjacent to it are Hyannisport, a summer colony of fine residences. Centerville, Craigville, said to have the finest beach in New England, Osterville (called the little Newport), and Cotuit, one of the prettiest spots along the shores of Vineyard Sound. This region is growing more and more popular every year as the summer home of people of wealth and refinement and presents all the attractions of resorts which cater to the diversion of vacationists.