Chapter 75

LAST DAYS IN CHINA

It was of paramount importance to pack our specimens before the beginning of the summer rains. They might be expected to break in full violence any day after June 1, and when they really began it would be impossible to get our boxes to Bhamo, for virtually all caravan travel ceases during the wet season. Therefore our second stay at Hui-yao was short and we returned to Teng-yueh on May 24, ending the active field work of the Expedition exactly a year from the time it began with our trip up the Min River to Yen-ping in Fukien Province.

Mr. Grierson had kindly invited us again to become his guests and no place ever seemed more delightful, after our hot and dusty ride, than his beautiful garden and cool, shady verandah where a dainty tea was served. Our days in Teng-yueh were busy ones, for after the specimens were packed and the boxes sealed it was necessary to wrap them in waterproof covers; moreover, the equipment had to be sorted and sold or discarded, a caravan engaged, and nearly a thousand feet of motion-picture film developed. This was done in the spacious dark room connected with Mr. Grierson's house which offered a welcome change from the cramped quarters of the tent which we had used for so many months.

Much of the success of our motion film lay in the fact that it was developed within a short time after exposure, for had we attempted to bring or send it to Shanghai, the nearest city with facilities for doing such work, it would inevitably have been ruined by the climatic changes. Although cinematograph photography requires an elaborate and expensive outfit and is a source of endless work, nevertheless, the value of an actual moving record of the life of such remote regions is worth all the trouble it entails.

The Paget natural color plates proved to be eminently satisfactory and were among the most interesting results of the expedition. The stereoscopic effects and the faithful reproduction of the delicate atmospheric shading in the photographs are remarkable. Although the plates had been subjected to a variety of climatic conditions and temperatures by the time the last ones were exposed in Burma, a year and a half after their manufacture, they showed no signs of deterioration even when the ordinary negatives which we brought with us from America had been ruined. The other photographs, some of which are reproduced in this book, speak for themselves.

The entire collections of the Expedition were packed in forty-one cases and included the following specimens:

2,100 mammals 800 birds 200 reptiles and batrachians 200 skeletons and formalin preparations for anatomical study 150 Paget natural color plates 500 photographic negatives 10,000 feet of motion-picture film.

Since the Expedition was organized primarily for the study of the mammalian fauna and its distribution, our efforts were directed very largely toward this branch of science, and other specimens were gathered only when conditions were especially favorable. I believe that the mammal collection is the most extensive ever taken from China by a single continuous expedition, and a large percentage undoubtedly will prove to represent species new to science. Our tents were pitched in 108 different spots from 15,000 feet to 1,400 feet above sea level, and because of this range in altitudes, the fauna represented by our specimens is remarkably varied. Moreover, during our nine months in Yün-nan we spent 115 days in the saddle, riding 2,000 miles on horse or mule back, largely over small roads or trails in little known parts of the province.

In Teng-yueh we were entertained most hospitably and the leisure hours were made delightful by golf, tennis, riding, and dinners. Mr. Grierson was a charming host who placed himself, as well as his house and servants, at our disposal, utter strangers though we were, and we shall never forget his welcome.

We decided to take four man-chairs to Bhamo because of the rain which was expected every day, and the coolies made us very comfortable upon our sleeping bags which were swung between two bamboo poles and covered with a strip of yellow oil-cloth. They were the regulation Chinese "mountain schooner," at which we had so often laughed, but they proved to be infinitely more desirable than riding in the rain.

With the forty-one cases of specimens we left Teng-yueh on June 1, behind a caravan of thirty mules for the eight-day journey to Bhamo on the outskirts of civilization. Our chair-coolies were miserable specimens of humanity. They were from S'suchuan Province and were all unmarried which alone is almost a crime in China. Every cent of money, earned by the hardest sort of work, they spent in drinking, gambling, and smoking opium. As Wu tersely put it "they make how much--spend how much!"

About every two hours they would deposit us unceremoniously in the midst of a filthy village and disappear into some dark den in spite of our remonstrances. We would grumble and fume and finally, getting out of our chairs, peer into the hole. In the half light we would see them huddled on a "kang" over tiny yellow flames sucking at their pipes. At tiffin each one would stretch out under a tree with a stone for a pillow and his broad straw hat propped up to screen him from the wind. With infinite care he would extract a few black grains from a dirty box, mix them with a little water, and cook them over an alcohol lamp until the opium bubbled and was almost ready to drop. Then placing it lovingly in the bowl of his pipe he would hold it against the flame and draw in long breaths of the sickly-sweet smoke. The men could work all day without food, but opium was a prime necessity.

It was almost impossible to start them in the morning and it became my regular duty to make the rounds of the filthy holes in which they slept, seize them by the collars and drag them into the street. Force made the only appeal to their deadened senses and we were heartily sick of them before we reached Bhamo.

The road to Bhamo is a gradual descent from five thousand feet to almost sea level. Because of the fever the valleys are largely inhabited by "Chinese Shans" who differ in dress and customs from the Southern Shans of the Nam-ting River. Few of the men were tattooed and the women all wore the enormous cylindrical turban which we had seen once before in the Salween Valley.

At noon of the fifth day we crossed the Yün-nan border into Burma. It is a beautiful spot where a foaming mountain torrent rushes out of the jungle in a series of picturesque cascades and loses itself in a living wall of green. The stream is spanned by a splendid iron bridge from which a fine wide road of crushed stone leads all the way to Bhamo.

What a difference between the country we were leaving and the one we were about to enter! It is the "deadly parallel" of the old East and the new West. On the one side is China with her flooded roads and bridges of rotting timber, the outward and visible signs of a nation still living in the Middle Ages, fighting progress, shackled by the iron doctrines of Confucius to the long dead past. Across the river is English Burma, with eyes turned forward, ever watchful of the welfare of her people, her iron bridges and macadam roads representing the very essence of modern thought and progress.

With paternal care of her officials the British government has provided _dâk_ (mail) bungalows at the end of each day's journey which are open to every foreign traveler. They are comfortable little houses set on piles. Each one has a spacious living room, with a large teakwood table and inviting lounge chairs. In a corner stands a cabinet of cutlery, china, and glass, all clean and in perfect order. The two bedrooms are provided with adjoining baths and a covered passageway connects the kitchen with the house. All is ready for the tired traveler, and a boy can be hired for a trifling sum to make the punkah "punk." Such comforts can only be appreciated when one has journeyed for months in a country where they do not exist.

Our last night on the road was spent at a _dâk_ bungalow near a village only a few miles from Bhamo. We were seated at the window, when, with a rattle of wheels, the first cart we had seen in nine months passed by. That cart brought to us more forcibly than any other thing a realization that the Expedition was ended and that we were standing on the threshold of civilization.

As Yvette turned from the window her eyes were wet with unshed tears, and a lump had risen in my throat. Not all the pleasures of the city, the love of friends or relatives, could make us wish to end the wild, free life of the year gone by. Silently we left the house and walked across the sunlit road into a grove of graceful, drooping palms; a white pagoda gleamed between the trees, and the pungent odor of wood smoke filled the air.

The spot was redolent with the atmosphere of the lazy East; the East which, like the fabled "Lorelei," weaves a mystic spell about the wanderer whom she has loved and taken to her heart, while yet he feels it not. And when he would cast her off and return to his own again she knows full well that her subtle charm will bring him back once more.

* * * * *

The next morning we entered Bhamo. It is a city of low, cool houses, wide lawns and tree-decked streets built on the bank of the muddy Irawadi River. Only a few miles away the railroad reaches Katha, and palatial steamers run to Mandalay and Rangoon. We called upon Mr. Farmer, the Deputy Commissioner, who offered the hospitality of the "Circuit House" and in the evening took us with him to the Club.

A military band was playing and men in white, well-dressed women, and officers in uniform strolled about or sipped iced drinks beside the tennis court. We felt strange and shy but doubtless we seemed more strange to them for we were newly come from a far country which they saw only as a mystic, unknown land.

On June 9, at noon, we embarked for the 1,200-mile journey to Rangoon, exactly nine months after we had ridden away from Yün-nan Fu toward the Mountain of Eternal Snow. Our further travels need not be related here. When we reached civilization we expected that our transport difficulties were ended; instead they had only begun. India was well-nigh isolated from the Pacific and to expose our valuable collection to the attacks of German pirates in the Mediterranean and Atlantic was not to be considered even though it necessitated traveling two thirds around the world to reach America safely.

We left Rangoon for Calcutta, crossed India with all our baggage to Bombay, and after a seemingly endless wait eventually succeeded in arriving at Hongkong by way of Singapore. There we separated from our faithful Wu and sent him to his home in Foochow. It was hard to say "good-by" to Wu, for his efficient service, his enthusiastic interest in the work of the Expedition, and, above all, his willingness to do whatever needed to be done, had won our gratitude and affection. We ourselves went northward to Japan, across the Pacific to Vancouver, and overland to New York, arriving on October 1, 1917, nearly nineteen months from the time we left. We were never separated from our collections for, had we left them, I doubt if they would ever have reached America. It was difficult enough to gather them in the field, but infinitely more so to guide the forty-one cases through the tangled shipping net of a war-mad world.

They reached New York without the loss of a single specimen and are now being prepared in the American Museum of Natural History for the study which will place the scientific results of the Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition before the public.

* * * * *

The story of our travels is at an end. Once more we are indefinable units in a vast work-a-day world, bound by the iron chains of convention to the customs of civilized men and things. The glorious days in our beloved East are gone, and yet, to us, the Orient seems not far away, for the miles of land and water can be traversed in a thought. Again we stand before our tent with the fragrant breath of the pines about us, watching the glistening peaks of the Snow Mountain turn purple and gold in the setting sun; again, we feel the mystic spell of the jungle, or hear the low, sweet tones of a gibbon's call. We have only to shut our eyes to bring back a picture of the bleak barriers of the Forbidden Land or the sunlit streets of a Burma village. Thank God, we saw it all together and such blessed memories can never die.

INDEX

Abercrombie & Fitch Co., 76 Abertsen, Mr., Chinese Customs, employee of, 290, 294; discovered hunting ground near Hui-yao, 298; killed two gorals, 298 Africa, 4 Akeley, Carl E., 4, 76 Alaska, 4 Allen, Dr. J. A., x American flags, 43 American Legation, Peking, xi American Museum Journal, ix American Museum of Natural History, 2, 5, 77, 200; trustees of, specimens being prepared at, 321 Americans, 11 Ammunition, loss of, 79 Amoy, 16 _Anas boscas_ (Mallard ducks), 186 Anglo-Chinese College, 4 Animal life, lack of, 89 Annamits, 78 Antlers, 306, 312 Ape, gray (_Pygathrix_), 255 _Apodemus_ (white-footed mouse), 122, 176 Asia, x _Asia_ Magazine, quoted from, 152 Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition, 2; members of, 8 Assam, 241 Assistants, 4 A-tun-tzu, 198, 294

Babies, killing and selling of, 206 Baboon, brown (_Macacus_), 255 Baboon, Indian (_Macacus rhesus_), 279 Bamboo chickens, 26 Bandits, attack of, 95 Bankhardt, Mr., 82, 40, 42, 207 Bat apartment house, 80 Bat cave, description of, 29; experience of girl in, 81 Bats, method of killing, 80 Batrachians, 310 Bear cubs (_Ursus tibetanus_), purchased at Teng-yueh, 296 Bedding, 93 Berger, Anna Katherine, acknowledgment to, xi Bering Strait, 1 Bernheimer, Mr. and Mrs. Charles L., x Betel nut, 241, 242 Bhamo, 294, 315, 317, 319; railroad from, 81; road to, 318; description of, 320 Big Ravine, description of, 26; temples near, 26 Birds, game, 90 _Blarina_, 176 Boat, Chinese, eye on, 15 Bode, Mr., 99 Bohea Hills, 64 Bound feet, 34 Bowdoin, George, x Bradley, Dr., 78; established leper hospital at Paik-hoi, 205 Brahmin priests, 186 Brahminy docks, 186; habits of, 187 Bridge, suspension, description of, 218 Bridges, rope, 199 Brigand, seal of a pardoned, 210 Brigandage, 207, 208, 211 Brigands, 86; beheading of, 41; infest Yün-nan, 88; description of, 96 British American Tobacco Co., Hongkong, 97, 100 British East Africa, 4 Brooke, Englishman, killed by Lolos, 174 Buffaloes, 265; water, 218 Bui-tao, 60, 61 Bureau of Foreign Affairs, Director of, x Burial, expenses of, 89 Burma, 8, 91, 191; border of, 197, 241; girls of, 242, 248, 248; mammals caught near, 250; frontier of, 264, 265, 294, 316; boundary of, 319 Burmans, 289, 241

Calcutta, 297, 321 Caldwell, Rev. Harry R., xi, 8, 17, 20, 21, 22, 28, 24, 26, 27, 28, 29; letter from, 82; house of, 86; stationed at Futsing, 44; tiger hunting, method of, 45, 46, 55, 56, 61, 64, 141; obtains serows at Yen-ping, 142; purchases serow skins in Fukien, 148, 152, 154, 207 California, 8 _Callosciurus erythræus_, 89, 280 Camera equipment, 75 Canadian Pacific R.R. Co., Hongkong, General Passenger Agent of, xi Cantonese, chiefly of Shan stock, 262 _Capricornulus crispus_, 140 _Capricornis sumatrensis_, 141 _Capricornis sumatrensis argyrochætes_, 29, 141 _Capricornis sumatrensis milne-edwardsi_, 141 Caravan, robbing of, 96; buying of, 104; renting of, 104 Caravan ponies, 104 Caravans, distance traveled by, 158, 197 Cary, F. W., Commissioner of Customs, 4, 77 _Casarca casarca_ (ruddy sheldrake), 186 Caverns, 162 Central Asia, 1 Central Asian plateau, 1 _Cervus macneilli_, 175 Chair-coolies, 317 Chairs, description of, 92, 517 Chang, Dr., 294 Chang-hu-fan, 20; night at, 21 Changlung, 273; ferry at, 274, 281 Chien-chuan, 198 Chi-li, 7 China, 1, 2; aboriginal inhabitants of, 3; press, 13; inland mission, 78, 101 Chinaman, Cantonese, 242 Chinese, Republic, xi, 2; army of, 7; face saving, 11; Foreign Office, 11; screaming, habit of, 15; lack of sympathy of, 19; not affected by sun, 22; love of companionship, 22; bride of, 69; wedding of, 72; dress of, 72; Commissioner of Foreign Affairs, meeting with, 82; education of, 88; villages, description of, 90; etiquette of, 102, 158, 190; New Year, 212, 213, 214; collecting debts of, 216 Chipmunk (_Tamiops macclellandi_), 230 Chi-yuen-kang, 26, 27, 29 Chou Chou, 99 Christians, native, persecution of, 21 Christianity, lesson in, 39 Christmas, 195; celebration of, 196 Chu-hsuing Fu, 94, 204 Chung-tien, 172, 175, 176, 183, 201 Civet (_Viverra_), 246, 247 Clive, Captain, 268, 270, 378 Clothing, 75 Colgate, Mr. and Mrs. Sidney M., x Collecting case, 228 Color plates, 240 Confucius, rules of, 67 Cook, difficulty in obtaining, 17; description of, 105 Coolies, 54 Cormorants, 280 Corn, 91 Cows, used as burden-bearers by Chinese, 218 Cranes, 184; habits of, 185, 199, 236 Crossbows, 229 Cui-kau, 18; description of, 80

Da-Da, 45, 54 Daing-nei, 54, 66 _Dâk_ (mail) bungalows, 319 Da-Ming, 33 Darjeeling, 144 Davies, Major H. R., ix, 93; quoted, 137, 138, 139, 191 Dead, burying of, 151 Deer, 246, 301, 312, 313 Deer, barking, 63 Denby, Hon. Charles, 9 Dennet, Tyler, quoted, 152 D'Ollone, Major, member French Expedition, 174 D'Orleans, Prince Henri, 186 Dog, red, death of, 135 Dogs, description of, 115; for food, 115 Doumer, M., Governor-General of French Indo-China, 93 Duai Uong, 51 Ducks, 90, 198; brahminy, shooting off 199 Dupontès, Georges Chemin, assistance of, to expedition, 80

Eastes, Mr., Consul, 294 Education, foreign, 71 _Elaphodus_, 182 Elephants, 219, 222 Elk, 1 Ellsworth, Lincoln, x Embry, Rev. and Mrs., China Inland Mission, members of, 294 Empress Dowager, 70; issued edict prohibiting opium growing, 91 Equipment, purchase of, 4 Erh Hai or Ta-li Fu Lake, 199 Etiquette, 102 Europe, 1 European war, 8 Evans, H. G., xi; assistance of, 100, 106, 186, 200, 298 Expedition, announcement of, 5; applicants for positions on, 5; results of, 316 Expeditions, preliminary, 2 Eye on Chinese boat, 15

Farmer, Mr., 320 Fauna, mammalian, 316 _Felis temmincki_, 108 _Felis uncia_, 108 Ferry, 160 Fletcher, H. G., 294, 295 Flying squirrel, 108, 191 Foochow, 8, 10, 11, 15, 16; foreign residents of, 17; streets of, 17, 23, 24, 85, 40; mail from, 48; schools for native girls at, 67; woman's college at, 67, 206, 207, 209, 321 Food box, 74 Foot binding, origin of, 69; method of, 70; Natural Foot Society of, 70; agitation against, 71 Forbidden City, 12 Ford, James B., x Foreign Office, 97 Forest conservation, lack of, 88 Formosa, 11 Forrest, Mr., 294 Fossil animals, 108; beds, 108 Francolins, 26 French Consul, 78 Frick, Childs, x Frick, Henry C, x Fukien Province, China, 8, 6, 10; deforestation of, 24; mammals of, 25, 26, 28, 29; climate and temperature of, 68; collecting in summer at, 68; birds of, 64; herpetology of, 64; trapping for small mammals at, 64; zoölogical study of, 64; language of, 65; travel in, 65; servants in, 65; serows hunted in, 148, 204; missionary work in, 207 Funeral customs, 151, 158 Futsing, 43; blue tiger hunting at, 54

Galapagos Islands, 4 _Gallus gallus_, 247 _Gallus lafayetti_, 248 _Gallus sonnerati_, 248 _Gallus varius_, 248 Gamblers, 215 Geese, 90, 198 Gen-kang, 224, 226, 229, 288 Gibbon (_Hylobates_), 258; description of, 254, 255, 281, 284; hunting of, 285 Goffe, Consul-General at Yün-nan Fu, 270 Goitre, prevalence of, 92 Gorals, 25, 76; first hunt for, 120; ceremonies at death of, 121, 123; collecting for groups, 126; color of, 126; invisibility of, 128; description of, 144; horns of, 144; distribution of, 144; hunting of, 144, 194; fighting of, 145; habits of, 146; feet of, 146, 194; hunting of, at Hui-yao, 302, 309 Great Invisible, 44 Grierson, Ralph C, xi, 294, 295, 305, 317 _Grus communis_, 236 _Grus nigricollis_, 184

Habala, 164; hunting at, 165, 167 Haendel-Mazzetti, Baron, 113, 123, 126, 164 Hainan, description of, 77; fauna of, 77 Haiphong, 77; arrival at, 78, 79 Hanna, Rev. William J., xi, 79, 89, 101, 106, 201, 204, 205, 206, 294 Hanoi, description of, x, 79 _Harper's Magazine_, ix Hartford, Mabel, 22, 23, 204 Heller, Edmund, 3, 4, 10, 61, 75, 79, 85, 94, 104, 105, 115, 116, 122, 123, 134, 135, 136, 146, 150, 161, 162, 173, 185, 195, 196, 227, 229, 247, 275, 276, 284, 291, 298, 299, 300, 306, 311, 312 Himalaya Mountains, 1 Hoi-hau, 77 Homes, 69 Ho-mu-shu, 281; monkeys found near, 282, 283, 289, 291, 318 Hongkong, purchase of supplies at, 74, 200, 297, 321 Hoolock (_Hylobates hoolock_), 289 Hornbill, 245, 252 Horses, size of, 85, 104 Hospital attendants, 38 Hotenfa, 129, 130, 181, 182, 134, 185, 161, 171, 174, 193, 194, 195 Hsia-kuan, description of, 99, 108, 212 Hui-yao, 142, 145, 298, 300, 301, 306; reptiles and lizards found at, 310, 313, 315 Hunan, 85, 86 Hung-Hsien, 11 Hunters, 114 Hutchins, Commander Thomas, 10 Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain), massacre at, 28 _Hylobates_, 254, 289 _Hylomys_, 281, 251 _Hystrix_, 116

India, 1, 57, 321 Inns, 98 Irawadi River, 81, 269, 297, 320

Japan, 5, 8 Japanese newspaper reporters, 6 Joline, Mrs. Adrian Hoffman, x Jungle fowl, 247, 248; habits of, 248, 280.

Kachins, 289, 269; women, appearance of, 241 Katha, 320 Kellogg, C. R., xi, 11, 15, 17, 48, 61, 66 Kok, Rev. and Mrs. A., xi; Pentecostal missionary, 108; assistance of, 112, 204, 294 Koko-nor, 186 Koo, Wellington, 9 Korea, 6; pheasants found in, 187 Kraemer, M., xi Kucheng, 28 Kwang-si, 9 Kwei-chau Province, 8, 9, 137

Lane & Crawford Company of Hongkong, 77 Lang, Herbert, photograph of serow loaned by, 144 Languages and dialects, number of, 138; reason for, 188, 139 Langur, 255 Langurs (_Pygathrix_), 257, 258 Lao-kay, first hotel on railroad, 81 Lapwings, 199 Las, 239 Lashio, 269 Legge, Prof. J., quoted, 68 Leopards, 25, 64 Leper hospital, 78 _Li_, length of, 84 Li-chiang, 96; animal life on route to, 107; arrival at, 107; camp in, 108; collecting in, 109; mammals of, 109; important fur market at, 110; inhabitants of, 117; return to, 150, 155, 157, 190, 196, 254, 257 Li-Hung Chang, 7 Ling-suik, monastery of, 61; description of, 62; priests at, 62; collecting at, 63 Lisos, 191, 289, 292 Livingstone, H. W., xi, 19 Loads, weight of, 54 Lolos, 8, 184, 186; depredations of, 137; independence of, 188, 170; dress of, 178; capes worn by, 174, 188, 190 London Zoölogical Society's Garden, 141 Long Ravine, blue tiger seen at, 57 Lucas, Dr. F. A., acknowledgement to, x Lui, Mr., salt commissioner at Hsia-kuan, 99 Lung-ling, 281, 282, 294 Lung-tao, 45, 54, 60, 63 Lutzus, 191, 292

McMurray, J. V. A., xi _Macacus rhesus_, 258, 279, 305 _Mafus_, description of, 87 Mail, 290 Malaria, 274, 991 Malay Peninsula, 57 Ma-li-ling, 264, 266 Ma-li-pa, 265; poppy fields at, 267, 269, 270, 272, 273 Mallard ducks, 186, 199 Mammals, small, importance of, 110; preparing of, 227 Man, primitive, migrations of, 1 Man-eater, killing of, 49 Mandalay, 320 Mandarins, relations with, 102, 243 Ma-po-lo, low valley at, 225; game at, 226; fog in, 226 Marco Polo, 104 Massacre in Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain), 23 Meadow vole (_Microtus_), 118, 122 Mekong, 191, 197 Mekong river, description of, 192, 193, 201, 292 Mekong-Salween divide, 190 Mekong valley, 177, 182; vegetables in, 193; zoölogy of, 193 Meng-ting, 226, 233; description of, 236; mandarin of, 236; Buddhist monastery at, 238; market at, 238; Cantonese visit and buy opium at, 242; fog at, 244; valley at, 244; birds at, 244 Mergansers, 186 Methodist mission, 24 Mexico, 4 Miao village, 273 Mice, 176 _Micromys_, 192 _Microtus_, meadow vole, 118, 122, 173 Min River, 15; life on, 19, 88, 204 Mission hospital, 36; China Inland, 101 Missionaries, 35, 40, 59, 67, 202; servants of, 203; natives trading with, 205; civilizing influence of, 206 Mohammedan Chinese, married to a Shan, 246 Mohammedan hunter, 261, 264 Mohammedan war, 101 Mole, 176 Molloy, Agnes F., acknowledgment to, xi Money, carrying of, 97; transmitting of, 97 Monkey, 192, 195 Monkey temple, 258 Moose, 1 Morgan, Cordelia, 94, 95, 204 Mosos, 110; description of, 111, 155, 165; capes worn by, 174, 190, 229 Motion pictures, 76; developing of, 315 Mountain goat, 1 "Mountain Goat Hunting with Camera," quoted from, 147 Mouse (_Micromys_), 192 Moving picture film, 166 Mu-cheng, 229, 238 Muntjac, description of, 28, 132, 225, 258, 292 Museum authorities, 9 Mustelidæ, 250 Myitkyina district, 269

_Næmorhedus griseus_, 144 Nam-ka, Shans at, 260; description of, 260; camp at, 264 Nam-ting River, ferry at, 235, 243; camping at, 244, 245; hunters at, 246; camp on, 249; polecat trapped at, 250; monkeys, hunting at, 252; hornbill, seen at, 253; monkeys found at, 258; Shans seen at, 260; caravan crossed, 264, 284, 289, 291, 318 _Namur_, S. S., 297 Natives, 91; inaccuracy of, 158 New York, return to, 321 Ngu-cheng, 205 Non-Chinese tribes, 3 North America, 1 Northern soldiers, 35, 42 Northern troops, 40

Opium, 91; growing of, 91; inspection of, 91; scandal, 91; smuggling of, 91, 267; smoking of, 318 Osborn, Henry Fairfield, quoted, 146, 147

Pack saddle, description of, 85 Pack, weight of, 85 Page, Howard, 82, 84, 200 Paget color plates, 166, 200, 316 Pagoda Anchorage, 15, 66 Paik-hoi, 78; leper hospital at, 205 Palaungs, 239 Palmer, Mr., 290, 294 Pandas, coats of, 103 Pangolin, scales of, 103 Parrots, 244 Partridges, bamboo, 245 Passports, 11 _Pavo cristatus_, 277 _Pavo munticus_, 277 Peacock, black-shouldered, 279 Peacock, hunting of, 274; habits of, 277; eggs of, 277; domestication of, 278 Peacock, Indian, 277 Peafowl, killed on Salween River, 277; flesh of, 277 Peking, 6, 7, 11, 12, 82, 209 _Petaurista yunnanensis_, 103 Phasianidæ, 279 Pheasants, shooting of, 90; Lady Amherst's, 150; silver, 279; horned, 291 Phete, 167; country about, 168; natives of, 168, 170 Photographic work, 166 Photographs in natural colors, 4 Photography, cinematograph, 316 Pigeons, 280 Pigs, killing of, 22; wild, 25, 64; treatment of, 90, 188 Pin-toil, 199 Pleistocene, 1 Pocock, Mr., 141 Polecat, 250 Polo, Marco, 176; quoted, 219 Poppy blossoms, 265 Poppy fields, 91 Porcupine, description of, 115 Portable dark room, 166 Prjevalsky, Lieutenant-Colonel, 186 P'u-erh, 212 _Pygathrix_ (monkeys), 192, 195, 258

Railroad, Hanoi to Yün-nan, 80; description of, 81 Rain, last of the season, 185, 290, 315, 317 Rainey, Paul J., 4 Rangoon, 269, 272, 279, 320, 321 _Ratufa gigantea_, 251 Rebellion of 1918, 8 Reinsch, Hon. Paul, xi, 10, 11 Republic, 16 Rhododendrons, 291 Rice, 168 Rice fields, 89 Rifle, Mannlicher, 75, 256, 266, 300; Savage, 75, 271; Winchester, 60, 75 Riot in Shanghai, 152 Roads, descriptions of, 87 Rocky Mountain sheep, 1 Roosevelt, Colonel Theodore, 4 _Rupicapra_, 140 Rupicaprine antelopes, horns of, 140

Salt, preparation of, 196, 197 Salween River, 278, 278; heat of, 280, 282, 288, 305 Sambur, 226, 229; hunting of, 311; blood of, 312 Sammons, Mr., American Consul-General, 12 Sampans, first night in, 20 San Francisco, 5 Scandinavian steamer, 11 Schools for native girls, 67 Sclater, Mr., 278 Screaming, Chinese habit of, 15 Sedan chairs, 16 Serows, 25; hunt for, 27; habits of, 29, 64; hunting for, 184; description of, 185; color variation of, 186; Japanese, 140; difference from gorals, 140; horns of, 141; relationship of, 141; appearance of, 141; killed on Snow Mountain, 142; obtained by Mr. Caldwell at Yen-ping, 142; distribution of, 142; habits of, 148; weight of, 148, 305; hunting of at Hoi-yao, 306, 307, 308, 309 Servants, wages of, 204 Shanghai, 11, 12; riot in, 152, 316 Shans, 8, 225, 288, 242, 282; description of village of, 284, 245; houses of, 260; heavily tattooed, 261; tribes of, 262; description of, 262, 288, 318 Sheldrakes, 186 Sherwood, George H., assistance rendered to Expedition by, x Shia-chai, 218 Shih-tien, 223; bird life at, 223; natives, curiosity of, 224, 225 Shih-ku ferry, 182, 184 Shoverling, Daly & Gales, ammunition, guns, tents, furnished by, 4 Shrew, 178, 251 Shweli River, 145 Singapore, 321 Slave raiding, 189 Smith, Arthur H., quoted, 158, 214, 215 Snow Mountain, camp at, 112; traveling to, 112; description of hunters at, 114; mammalogy of, 116; camp on slopes of, 118; mammals collected at, 127; serows killed on, 142, 166, 176, 182, 184 Soldiers, guard of, 97; guns of, 97; expense of, 97; use of, 97; treatment by natives of, 98; fight with, 187; extortions of, 188 South America, 4 Specimens, packing of, 296, 315 Squirrel, flying (_Petaurista yunnanensis_), 291; _Ratufa gigantea_, 251; red-bellied (_Callosciurus erythræus_), 89, 280 S'suchuan Province, 8, 137, 174 S'su-mao, 178, 212 Standard Oil Co., xi; launch of, 19, 82, 200 Su Ek, 207 Sun-birds, 244 _Sung-kiang_, S. S., 78

Tablets, ancestral, description of, 215 Tai-ping-pu, 291, 298 Taku, 160, 184 Taku ferry, 164 Ta-li Fu, soldiers guard to, 88; road to, 99; graves at, 100; lake at, 100; mandarin at, 100; pagodas at, 100, 104, 105, 188, 186, 198, 200, 201 Ta-li Fu Lake, description of, 199 _Tamiops macclellandi_, 280 Taoist temple, 26 Tao-tai, 85 Tartars, 219, 221 Temple, camp in, 86 Teng-yueh, 4, 141, 289, 291, 298, 294, 295, 298, 318; return to, 315, 317 Tents, 74 _Tenyo Maru_, 5, 9 Thompson, Dr., 205 Tibet, 8, 108, 172, 178; monopoly of gold in, 181, 188 Tibetan plateaus, 191 Tibetans, description of, 178; photographing of, 179; dislike for strangers of, 180; influence of Chinese on, 181, 183, 190, 191, 212 Tiger, 22, 25, 64; man-eating, 44; lairs of, 45; stalking a goat, 45; habits of, 46; daring of, 47; strength of, 48; excitement of hunting, 49; weight of, 50; blood of, 50; skins in temples of, 51; food of, 51; hunting in lair of, 51; flesh and bones of, 51; marking trees by, 52; skins of, 103 Tiger, blue, 8, 43, 55; description of, 56; hunting of, 57; trying to trap, 60 Tonking, 3, 77, 81, 93, 178, 212 Tragopan, Temminck's, 291 Transportation, difficulties of, 321 Trapping, methods of, 110 Traps, steel, 75; method of setting, 245 Trees, marking of, by tiger, 52 Tribes, non-Chinese, description of, 138 Trimble, Dr., 32; house of, 34, 36, 37, 205, 207 Trowbridge, Captain Harry, 77, 78, 79 Tsai-ao, General, 9 _Tsamba_, 178 Ts'ang mountains, 100 Tsinan-fu, 12 _Tupaia belangeri chinensis_, 89

United States, 4 Universal Camera, 76 _Ursus tibetanus_, 296

Vegetarians, 23 _Viverra_, 246 Viverridæ, 247 Vochang, 218 Vole, 173 Von Hintze, Admiral, 11

Wapiti, 1, 175 War, Mohammedan, 101 Was, 239 Waterhole, 258 Wa-tien, 310, 313 Wei-hsi, 182, 187, 190, 196 White Water, 149; camp at, 149; weather at, 149 Wild boar, 258 Wilden, Henry M., French Consul, 82 Wolves, 25 Woman's college at Foochow, 67 Women, position of, in China, 67 Worship, ancestor, 156 Wu Hung-tao, interpreter, x, 4, 77, 87, 102, 105, 108, 123, 136, 168, 187, 191, 200, 213, 238, 267, 289, 294, 312, 318, 321

_Yamen_, 39 Yangtze River, 19, 81, 137, 150; road to, 157; crossing of, 161; barrier to mammals, 163, 184, 187, 193, 201, 262 Yangtze gorge, description of, 160, 164, 167 Yen-ping, 20, 22; climate of, 24; description of, 24; residence of Mr. Caldwell at, 24; Methodist Mission at, 24; trapping at, 25; rebellion in, 33; refugees from, 33; fighting in, 34; attacked by rebels in, 35; wounded in, 36; schools for native girls at, 67; Chinese wedding at, 72; missionary buildings of, 203, 205, 207 Yokohama, 5 Yuan, 7, 8, 10, 12 Yuan Shi-kai, 7, 10; death of, 12, 14, 34 Yuchi, 22; brigands at, 23, 24, 35, 36, 204, 207, 208, 211 Yung-chang, Chinese New Year at, 212; road to, 212, 214; water buffaloes at, 218; battle at, 218 Yung-chang-Teng-yueh road, 282 Yün-nan, xi; size of, 2; topography of, 3; boundaries of, 3; fauna of, 3; natives of, 3; language of, 3, 10, 25; infested with brigands, 83; zoölogical study of, 83; meaning of, 88; summer climate of, 99 Yün-nan Fu, 9; foreign residents of, 82; foreign office at, 97; Dr. Thompson's hospital at, 205

Zoölogical Garden, Berlin, 144 Zoölogical Park, Calcutta, 144

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Transcriber Note

Minor typos corrected. Hyphenation was generally standardized to the most frequently utilized version. Text was rearranged to avoid splitting by images. The terms Irawadi and Irrawaddy seem to both apply to the same River and valley. Both names retained.