Chapter Twelve.

SUTTER’S FORT--A HERD OF CATTLE--“LASSOING”--RIO DE LOS AMERICANOS--A DISAPPOINTED HUNTER--A CALIFORNIAN SERENADE--A MULE AND HIS RIDER--PARTING COMPANY--THIRST--SERENADES SUPPORTED BY DIRECT TAXATION--SIERRA NEVADAS.

We drove out a mile, to the margin of an extensive plain, where we stopped at a well, filled our flasks, and moved on, a gentleman who had a friend in the hospital at the fort, and myself, going in advance of the team. The fort at the time of its construction, was an extensive work, but now it is all in ruins excepting the inner inclosure, in which are situated the dwelling, hospital and out-houses. (See Plate). It is constructed of adobes, or unburned brick, prepared and laid up by Indian labor; and I will here remark, that the Indians on the ranchos in California, are considered as stock, and are sold with it as cattle, and the purchaser has the right to work them on the rancho, or take them into the mines. They are extremely squalid in appearance, and in the most abject servitude. I have never found the natives, anywhere, in a condition so degraded. We found the sick man in a very feeble state, having been in the hospital six weeks with dysentery, which he had contracted in the mines; and at this time there was but little hope of his recovery.

The fort is situated in the midst of an extensive plain, three miles from Sacramento city, and the same distance from the ferry and ford of the American river, (Rio Del Americano). It is said the proprietor, in one season, harvested nearly two thousand acres of wheat. At some distance back of the fort we saw grazing one of those immense herds of cattle for which California has been celebrated, (see Plate,) estimated at from two to three thousand head. Before the gold was discovered hides and tallow were the only articles of export, and cattle were raised and slaughtered for these articles alone. They run in large herds, feeding on the marshes in summer, and on the plains during the rainy season, kept from the grain by ditches and embankments, with which the fields are surrounded. They receive no care from the proprietors, and consequently are shy, and taken only with the “lasso.” These are made of raw hide, cut and platted like a whip-lash about fifty feet in length, and the size of the finger. It has a small loop or pully in one end, through which the other is passed and drawn up to a coil about five feet in diameter. The other end is then fastened to the pommel of the saddle; the rider taking the coil in his right hand coils the balance to the same size, and mounts.

There are probably no better horsemen in the world, not excepting the Cossacks, than the whites, half-breeds, and some of the Indians of California. It has been said, that their only homes are upon the backs of their horses, and nothing could possibly exceed the spirit and reckless daring displayed on an occasion like this. Their dresses are extremely picturesque. A high crowned hat with a black glazed covering, trimmed with a gold-lace band and bell-buttons; a hunting shirt fastened at the waist by a blue or red sash, and a belt containing a brace of pistols, black velvet breeches, open at the side of the leg, the edges trimmed with bell-buttons, showing the white drawers underneath. Below the knee the leg is dressed in tanned skins, which are wound around and fastened with strings; a pair of boots with a pair of massive iron spurs, trimmed with heavy chains; the hind tree, as well as the pommel of the saddle, rises quite abruptly, enabling one to retain his seat either at a rear or plunge of his horse; the pommel terminating in an eagle’s head, which prevents the lasso from slipping from the neck. The trimming of the saddle covers the entire back of the horse, the stirrups are of wood, made very large, with a leather covering in front, protecting the foot and leg from mud, brush, &c.; the bridle has a heavy iron bit and generally but one rein.

Thus mounted, a party of fifteen or twenty will approach a herd of cattle, horses, or elk, as the case may be. As they approach the herd takes fright, one snorts and starts, which is a signal for all, and they dash away. The horsemen, each selecting his victim, now bear down upon them with the speed of lightning. The herd, now aware of their pursuit, redouble

their energies, straining every nerve, the earth fairly quaking beneath their hoofs. The horses, as they near, display as much enthusiasm as their riders, and seem to scorn the very earth. They are now upon them. The herd, frantic and dismayed, begin to scatter. The horse now sees his victim and bounds with the most reckless impetuosity. The horseman, now rising in his saddle, throws his weight into the left stirrup, and with his right hand swings the lasso until the coil is sufficiently open, when it flies with the velocity and precision of an arrow, taking effect around the horns or neck of the victim. The horse, understanding the business, now slackens his speed, and prepares for the first shock, by taking a bracing position. The victim straitens the lasso, bounds into the air, and falls to the ground. The horseman dismounts, keeping his left foot in the stirrup, to help counteract the frantic throes of the victim which is now lacerated by balls from his pistols. Sometimes in its phrenzy of madness the victim rushes upon his pursuers, causing a precipitate retreat, and not unfrequently both horse and rider fall victims to their own temerity.

As our team had not yet arrived, we walked on one mile to Grime’s fort, a similar structure, and I believe the owner is a claimant of Sutter’s claim. We walked on to the river, prepared ourselves and waded through. On the opposite side, as we ascended the bank, we found ourselves on the margin of a plain, stretching away as far as the eye could reach, with nothing but an occasional oak to relieve the monotony. On the bank, a short distance above, is a rancho, to which belongs the ferry, used only during high water. This rancho belongs to the Sutter estate. There are several thousand _head_ of cattle and horses belonging to it, and about two hundred head of Indians. The soil has the appearance of being extremely fertile, but at this time vegetation was parched with drought. Sutter claims most of the country drained by the Sacramento and its branches, which is all, of any agricultural value, in the north part of the State.

Our team soon came up, and our driver informed us that it was ten miles to the next water, consequently we were obliged to encamp on the bank of the river, notwithstanding it was only 3 o’clock, P.M. We had averaged one mile per hour. I loaded my rifle and went down the river to hunt; I had promised myself a supper of wild duck, but they proved to be, on that particular day, all crows, and I compensated myself in part by picking a quantity of grapes. These were put into our camp-kettle and served up for supper. We thought them delicious, but the next morning, to our regret, we learned that we had forgotten to sweeten them. Late in the afternoon, a party of Indians started, fully equipped, to lasso horses, that were herding on the bottom lands of the Sacramento, six miles distant. They rode at the top of their speed, the horse and rider seeming moved by the same impulse. At night we spread our blankets in the open air. Some one of the party had been throwing out insinuations reflecting upon the character of the grizzly bear, that were said to abound in our immediate vicinity; not only that they were in the habit of “running around nights,” but that they had a tendency to cannibalism. One of the party took a particular fancy to my rifle; whether it was the beauty of the piece, his predilection for the owner, or the fiery appearance of the cap, that stole his affections, I am not prepared to say. He folded it in his blanket and seemed to sleep the better for it. Soon after dark the California serenade commenced. The performers being two packs of wolves, the prairie (coyotas) and large gray wolf, each carrying a part, and in the latter were incorporated some of the best alto voices I ever heard. We were aroused early in the morning by a member of the above choir, who passed over the foot of our bed.

After breakfast we filled our flasks with water from the river and started. Our team travelled in a cloud of dust which hid them from our view. We moved on in advance. The day was excessively hot, and we were obliged to stop often for our team, in order to refill our flasks. After traveling five miles we overtook an ox-team loaded, and several mules packed, on the way to the mines. (See Plate). There were also several teams in the distance, moving in the same direction. We soon saw three men mounted on mules, coming toward us, who appeared to be returning from the mines. They were in high _spirits_, galloping along a little off the main track. One of them, in order, probably, to show a proper respect, pulled out his revolver and fired. His mule, taking the cue from his master, wishing to

make a proper demonstration in the presence of his fellow mules, gave a few peculiar gyrations with his tail, threw his head up, then threw it down, and threw his heels up, and at this particular time his master threw his heels up, and they parted company. It would be difficult to imagine a position more humble than the one assumed by the above mentioned master. He was literally with his face in the dust, and I never saw a more peculiar cast of countenance. If I had not seen the above transaction, but had met him with the same expression of countenance, I should have thought he had stolen the mule he was on, or would steal one if he had an opportunity. He didn’t give us his card, but hurried on in the direction of Sacramento city.

We found the country a continuous plain entirely destitute of water, vegetation parched, and nothing showing signs of life excepting the few scattering oaks, an occasional wolf, and numerous gray squirrels. These last have much the appearance of the gray squirrels of the forests of New York; but they burrow in the ground, in families. We exhausted the supply of water we had put on board, and were suffering with thirst. The sun had gained the meridian, and his rays were almost consuming. We hurried on through clouds of dust, and at 2 P.M. reached the point at which we expected to find water. To our painful surprise, the spring was dry. It was three miles to the next, and we were almost crazy with thirst. It was no time for deliberation. There was no alternative but to push on. On arriving at the next spring, we found a puddle containing a quart of water, the surface covered with yellow wasps. We were, however, not fastidious, and drank all excepting the wasps. It again filled and was again drained, until all had replenished their flasks. We here took dinner, and moved on until about 5 P.M., when, after a most fatiguing day’s journey, we reached the “half-way tent.” I here saw a herd of deer, and notwithstanding the fatigues of the day, indulged in a “hunt,” but without success.

Here, in the way of public accommodations, we found a tent, luxuriating in the name of the “half-way house.” A rough board running the entire length served as a table, the guests sleeping in the open air outside, under the protection of their own blankets. A blacksmith had erected, under a temporary covering of canvas, his anvil-block and forge, and was busily engaged in repairing a damaged vehicle. (See Plate.)

Our cook is busily engaged in preparing supper, while Mr. Cooper and myself devote the few remaining moments of twilight, to sketching the surrounding scene. The snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada are seen looming up in the distance, now gilded by the last rays of the setting sun, and now a dark imposing mass. Our teamster has just returned after a weary search for pasturage for our mules. I am visited by an individual whose personal appearance proclaims his own history more eloquently than it can be described. He might be termed one of the oldest inhabitants, having taken up his residence in the country before the gold excitement. He claimed to be on terms of intimacy with the _delirium tremens_, was deaf, had the rheumatism and scurvy, and said “he was not very well himself.” His entire system seemed palsied by the use of rum, and so little control had he over the lineaments of his face, that he could only open his eyes by opening his mouth at the same time; hence, in closing his mouth upon his pipe (which was in constant use) he was obliged to part the lids of his left eye with his thumb and finger; so confirmed had he become in this habit, that a protuberance had raised upon his eyebrow and cheek-bone by the appliance. He was extremely loquacious and imparted much _valuable_ information gratis, constantly keeping that _piercing_ eye upon our brandy bottle. Mr. Cooper, who was seated upon a log near, cast an inquisitive glance upon him, and I tried to detect a family resemblance between the two. I was unable to learn, however, that they were in the least connected, nor am I prepared to say that their present acquaintance ripened into an intimacy. Two amiable donkeys are standing patiently under their loads while their masters are extracting “vegetables” from a demijohn.

We were serenaded, as usual, during the night. We had been under the impression that the music was gratis, but learned, on this occasion, that it was supported by _direct taxation_, one of the worthies having taken a ham from our camp-kettle during the night. In addition to this, I had the pleasure, in the morning, of _adding a note to his scale_, with which he seemed so much pleased, that he went off _repeating it_, until he was out of sight.

We took an early start and found the country more rolling, with an occasional pine tree. It was evident that we were ascending into a more elevated region, and from the higher points we could plainly see the Sierra Nevada, their slopes pointing out the location of the river to which we were journeying--the north branch of the American river. The country abounded in massive rocks, sometimes piled up in ledges, and sometimes forming the entire summits of the hills.

Chapter Thirteenth.

VENISON--FIRST VIEW OF THE GOLD REGIONS--SURROUNDING SCENERY--“MORMON BAR”--A POCKET--MY MACHINE IN MOTION--CERTAINTY OF SUCCESS--FIRST DINNER--“PROSPECTING”--A GOOD “LEAD”--DISAPPOINTED MINERS--A NEW COMPANION--A HIGHER POINT ON THE RIVER--VOLCANOES--SNOWY MOUNTAIN--AUBURN--LONELY ENCAMPMENT.

We passed the night in the open air, and the next morning at eight o’clock arrived at an encampment of teamsters who were just dressing a deer and preparing breakfast. (See Plate.) The tree under which they were encamped was on fire, on one side, to its very top--the other supporting a luxuriant branch. The coffee-pot is on the fire and the cook stands by, frying-pan in hand, waiting for the steak. At the left the cattle are seen feeding; one of them, however, having resigned himself to the “coyotas.” In the distance is seen a herd of deer bounding away over the hill. On the right are seen teams wending their way to the banks of the “North Fork” of the American river--freighted with provisions and utensils for mining. It will be seen that we have ascended into a more elevated region since leaving the last Plate. The ascent has been gradual--almost imperceptible--still everything indicates our elevation.

At ten we arrived at a junction in the roads, four miles from our point of destination; we remained here until after dinner; we now felt that we were about to try the realities of that for which we had left home and friends, traveled thousands of miles, and endured hardships and privations, the very thought of which makes the heart sick--we felt a degree of anxiety, as a few hours would probably decide whether we were soon to return to our friends or endure a long period of hardships in the mines. After dinner we were again under way, and soon, leaving the main road, we were running in the direction of the

river. The road was good; but little timber; and the soil appearing well adapted to agriculture. It was soon evident that we were in close proximity to the river--the ravines all tending in the same direction; frequent rocks of enormous size, and from the more elevated points we could see a range of mountains rising on the other side. Having left the team behind, we pressed forward, eager to get a glimpse of the river and those employed in the golden pursuit; we soon arrived among the pines which stud the banks, but were still obliged to climb a slight ascent forming the immediate bank.

We soon gained the summit, and stood enraptured with the scene around us. The river, saluting our ears with its restless murmurs, meandered at the base of the mountain which had lifted us a mile above it. The banks were dotted with tents and teeming with the Liliputian owners. On the opposite side were mountains piled one above the other, terminating in a range covered with eternal snow, presenting a scene of grandeur and sublimity nothing can excel. The whitened peaks, reflecting the sun, resembled the domes of some vast cathedral. Looking back, the entire valley of the Sacramento was stretched out before us, bounded by the coast range of mountains, beyond which we could look upon the Pacific ocean--presenting a scene which, in extent, diversity, and grandeur is rarely if ever equalled. In the valley we could see extensive fertile plains, deserts of white sand, marshes, numerous lakes, dense forests, marking the water courses; and no doubt, with a glass of sufficient power, could have seen herds of elk, deer, antelope, and wild cattle. There is but little vapor in the atmosphere at this season of the year, and the vision is almost unbounded. Our team soon came up, and we prepared to descend the mountain, which was very precipitous, and the only place within ten miles at which the river can be reached with a team. Our teamster chained the wheel and with much difficulty descended the first step. He having been engaged in the same capacity during the Mexican war, managed the descent with much skill, and reached the base without accident.

We found ourselves at the “Mormon Bar,” forty-five miles from Sacramento city. We pitched our tent and cooked dinner after which I paid the teamster seventy-five dollars for three hundred pounds freight and started off to visit the miners. I well remember that as I was going down the side of the cañon I saw a hole in a rock, which I thought such an excellent “pocket” that I resolved to pay it a secret visit, not doubting that it contained a rich deposit. I afterward learned that the “pockets” in California had not all been filled, and the one above mentioned was never picked to my knowledge. I found a great many in eager pursuit, some digging up the dirt, carrying it in buckets, or tin pans, and throwing it into the rocker, while their companions would rock the machine and pour in water, which would wash out the dirt, the gold being retained by riffles, or cleats, in the bottom. The first machine I saw in operation was being rocked by Mr. Devoe, and fed by Gen. Winchester and his brother--all of New York. The two last named were in the water knee deep, getting dirt from the bottom of a hole. I loaned them a late New York paper, and we were soon acquainted. They were about to take the gold from their machine and wished me to stay. This was just what I wished to do, and, after a five minutes’ detention, they raised the screen, exhibiting the bottom of the rocker, which was covered with gold. I started for the tent, and it seemed that every rock had a yellow tinge, and even our camp kettle, that I had thought in the morning the most filthy one I had ever seen, now appeared to be gilded--and I thought with more than one coat. During the night, yellow was the prevailing color in my dreams. In the morning, hiring out two of the men temporarily at ten dollars per day, I hired a machine at two dollars per day, took the other man, went a short distance above Gen. Winchester’s “lead” and soon found myself in a “lead” which I thought much better than his.

“Bent” rocked and I put in the dirt. We resolved to run through twenty buckets before raising the screen, and soon the perspiration began to flow. He had a strong arm and I exerted every nerve to keep the machine supplied. The dirt would pass through the screen almost instantly, leaving the pebbles which he would scan very minutely, but finding no large pieces of gold consoled himself with the thought, “the smaller the more of them.” But now, after an hour’s incessant labor, we were about to finish our first task, and had in the machine as

much as we thought it prudent to have at any one time; I stopped digging but my heart kept on. The heat was most intense, the perspiration gushing from every pore. Bent was in a fever of excitement. He was naturally of a sandy complexion, but now his face added a deeper tinge to his red flannel shirt collar. Our reward was in our machine, and after putting in several dippers of water we raised the screen. It did not look as we expected it would; there was any quantity of dirt and _some_ gold.

We were not altogether satisfied with the result; still, we had just commenced, and, perhaps, were not sufficiently near the granite. Our “lead” was the best one on the bar--we _knew_ by the looks of it--and the next twenty buckets must show a different result. Our ambition was again up, and our machine in motion, and, if possible, with increased energy. After running through several buckets of dirt, we raised the screen. There was not much gold on the top, but there was _some_; and we worked on, thinking that we had not yet reached the best part of our lead. I noticed that after raising the screen, the machine was rocked with less energy; and it seemed to add to the weight of my pick-axe. We resolved to visit the General. They had done a fine morning’s work, and were in high spirits. They told us of many who had opened “leads,” and worked them two or three days without success, when some one else would step in, and make a fortune the first day. This was precisely our case. We had got our “lead” almost opened, and if we should step out, some one would step in, and get the fortune. This we were not disposed to do. We had got on track, and were determined not to give way to any one. We looked up, but there was no one in our “lead.” On our way back we discovered many natural advantages that our “lead” had over the General’s, and an even exchange would have been to us no object.

Our machine was again in motion. The sun had now almost gained the meridian. The heat was excessive. Bent’s red flannel was outside of his pantaloons, dripping with perspiration. My blue one was in the same condition. I would think of those abandoned “leads,” and wish I had two buckets. He would think of them, flourish his dipper, and rock the machine, until its very sides would quake. We finally prepared to adjourn for dinner, took out the screen, put the contents of our machine in a pan, and commenced to wash out the dirt, which required some time, then walked up to dinner. On our arrival at the tent, we weighed the gold, and found it worth one dollar.

As it was our first day in the mines, we resolved to dine on pork, a favorite dish in California. We cut a quantity into slices, put it into the frying-pan, laying on it a quantity of sea-biscuit, filling the pan with water, and covering it with a tin plate. We kept it on the fire until the water evaporated--it was then ready for use. Our coffee, in the mean time, was boiled in the tin coffee-pot. Seating ourselves on rocks in front of the tent, we expressed our appreciation of the swine tribe in unmeasured terms. We take a respite of an hour, and return to our labor. We are anxious to get down to the granite, as we are sure of finding there a rich deposite. Towards evening we struck the granite, and were within reach of a fortune, deposited here by nature for our express benefit. As it was late, we resolved to wash down what we had in the machine, and prepare for a successful effort on the following day. On our arrival at the tent, we found “Harry” and “Sam,” stretched out on the ground, groaning with fatigue, declaring that they had never worked so hard before, nor would they again. They had seen enough of the mines, and were determined to return to Sacramento. After telling them of the brilliant success that was about to attend our efforts, they agreed to remain another day. We had pork for supper, and spent the night in dreams of luxury. After an early breakfast we were again at our “lead.” We were particular to scrape the granite, as we uncovered it, and after running through ten buckets, we raised the screen; to our surprise, we were doing no better than on the previous day. This we could not account for. The only solution was, that the gold had never been there, and why, we could not divine. It had the same appearance as the General’s lead, which was paying the three from fifty to eighty dollars per day.

We worked on for some time, when “Bent” went up to cook the dinner, (we had resolved to have pork,) and I took the pick, shovel, and pan, and went “prospecting.” After walking some distance, I found a place which combined, as I thought, every indication of a rich deposit, and my only surprise was, that it had not been discovered before. It was on the lower side of a large rock, which must, at high water, break the current, forming an eddy below, where the gold must settle. On discovering a “lead,” one has only to leave his pick, and his title is indisputable. I left my implements, and hurried up to the tent. After dinner we carried our machine to the spot, and were soon in a profuse perspiration. “Bent” would frequently lift the screen, and it was very apparent that the prospect beneath was not brilliant. He had become a kind of thermometer to our success, and at every inspection his energy would lag, and my bucket would grow the heavier. Late in the afternoon we washed down our half-day’s work, and went up. Harry and Sam were writhing with fatigue. Harry had over-heated himself; Sam, being a mulatto, could endure the heat,--but his muscles had lost their tension, and every bone was cracked. He was willing to stay, if I wished him to, but Harry was bound for Sacramento. Bent said but little, still I could plainly see a cloud in his horizon. He had an impediment in his speech; and when I asked him what he thought of the prospect, he got into close proximity to some very hard words, and, with great magnanimity, wished the mines in the possession of an individual of brimstone notoriety, whose name I will not mention. After supper, we weighed our afternoon’s work, and had seventy-five cents. The man for whom Harry and Sam had been working, had taken possession of a bar, which was paying him well. As a general thing, the bars had been “prospected,” and the parts that would pay taken possession of. There was, however private “leads” opened daily, from which something could be made. Harry and Sam were too sore to start down the next day, consequently they resolved to rest; and Bent was willing to work the machine another day. As for myself, I must confess that the camp-kettle had lost one coat of its gilding, and the rocks were about the same color as those in the States.

We took an early start, and devoted an hour to “prospecting.” This time we were more successful, we found a “lead” from which we got twenty particles of gold in the first pan-full. We soon had our machine on the spot. As we were placing it several miners passed on the way to their work. They all looked, _we thought_, as if they considered us the most fortunate of men, and we detected a lurking envy in their expression. As soon as they left, our machine was put in motion; we now had no doubt as to the result, and after running through ten buckets of dirt we raised the screen, but, to our astonishment, there was not a particle of gold to be seen. This was beyond our comprehension. We could not conceive of a more convenient place for gold to deposite than this particular one, and determined not to abandon it until we had reached the granite. This we reached, and toiled on until noon, when we emptied our machine, and had two dollars’ worth of gold. We adjourned to dinner, and learned that a team had just arrived and was to return to Sacramento city the next day. Harry, Sam, and Bent immediately resolved to take passage. They had had their expenses paid to California, and were to work under the direction of the Company, and have a portion of the proceeds. They, no doubt, considered the dividends too small in proportion to the labor. I determined to make a more thorough trial of the mines, and not wishing to be encumbered sold the provisions, cooking utensils, &c., hired the tent carried back, and the next morning the teamster had every individual that accompanied our mule-team up, excepting a young man who had been sleeping on the ground near our tent and myself. They all, no doubt, had the same exalted opinion of the mines, and returned with purses equally well filled. Harry and Sam had earned $40 beside what Bent and myself had earned. This, together with what I received for provisions, &c., amounted to $200, which I put into the hands of Harry to give to one of the firm, who was at Sacramento city.

I was now alone. The two companions of the young man spoken of above, had left him, and circumstances seemed to throw us in each other’s way, and makes us companions. His name was Tracy. He and his companions, Scillinger and Hicks, were from Sante Fé; they had crossed the mountains, eaten their proportion of mule steak, and endured every conceivable hardship. We were at once friends. We determined to gain a higher point on the river, and, if possible, find a place where our efforts would be more liberally rewarded. We consequently filled a small camp-kettle with pork and hard bread, rolled up our blankets, to which we lashed our pick and shovel, and slung them over our shoulders. Our camp-kettle, coffee-pot, rifles, and tin-pans, in hand, we set out on our expedition. We first ascended the mountain, and when at the summit stopped to view the magnificent scenes around us; the heat was intense; the thermometer stood at 100°; still we were looking upon a range of mountains shrouded in eternal winter.

Our route lay over a succession of mountains, the peaks of which bore unmistakable signs of volcanic formation, being covered with lava. Our journey was a most fatiguing one, and at noon, having gained an elevated point, we sat down to rest. I here noticed, for the first time, a phenomenon which is of frequent occurrence during the summer months. A heavy white cloud resembling a bank of snow rises from the Snowy Mountains (Sierra Nevada,) and after gaining a certain altitude passes off to the south, and is succeeded by another. After disposing of a certain quantity of hard bread and pork, and kissing our flask, we stretched ourselves out on the ground under the shade of a pine tree, and were soon in the embrace of Morpheus. In one hour we were again under way, and at 3 o’clock, P.M., arrived at the “dry diggings,” (now Auburn.) This was a place of three tents, situated on the main road leading to the Oregon trail, which it intersects twenty miles above. These mines were not being worked to any extent, owing to the scarcity of water. There were a few, however, engaged in carrying dirt, a mile on their backs, and washing it at a puddle, in _town_. It was very uncertain business. The gold found here was in larger particles than in the river “diggings,” but there was a much greater uncertainty in obtaining it, some toiling for weeks without making a dollar, and sometimes finding pieces worth from $50 to $500. The gold has the appearance of having been thrown up in a molten state, perhaps during a volcanic eruption, and dropped into the earth.

After an hour’s detention we were again under way, and after traveling sometime over mountains, changed our course, wishing to reach the river. After an hour of the most fatiguing effort we were on a brink, with the river beneath our feet, but so distant that it had the appearance of a meandering pencil mark. We could, however, hear its subdued murmuring as it struggled through its rocky channel. After a short rest, we commenced the descent, which we found extremely precipitous, requiring the greatest caution and attended with the most painful exertions. Sometimes losing our foothold, we would slide down until we could catch by the shrubs for support, and at others, be precipitated to the bottom of the step. We at length reached the base and found ourselves on a small bar. It being after sunset, we kindled a fire, steeped some green tea, broiled a quantity of pork, by putting it on the end of a stick and holding it in the fire, and after toasting the sea-biscuit, we sat down on the rocks and paid our cook a most flattering compliment. I must confess that I never felt the gnawings of hunger more keenly than on this occasion, nor did I ever more fully appreciate the influence of green tea. We were much fatigued, and after removing some of the larger stones, spread our blankets and prepared for sleep.

We were strangers, never having spoken until a few hours previous; yet, having been thrown together by chance in a strange land, we felt a mutual interest that could scarcely have been stronger, had we been brothers. I must here say, that I was associated with Mr. Tracy for the succeeding three months, and no brother could have been more attentive or sympathetic. Soon after we were blanketed, the moon gained a sufficient altitude to look down into the cañon upon us. Our situation was novel in the extreme. The mountains rose on either side to the height of more than a mile, almost perpendicular. The moon and stars looking in upon us with unusual brilliancy. The distant and incessant howl of numerous packs of wolves, the restless gurgling and chafing of the river, as it struggled angrily through its rocky channel, our lonely and isolated situation, all conspired to generate strange thoughts, and to bring up strange, and often unpleasant associations. To look at the moon and think that our friends might be, at that moment, looking at the same orb, and thinking of us--thinking, perhaps, that we were already preparing to return home, having accomplished our most sanguine expectations; then to look at the reality, think of the dark prospect ahead, of the time that must intervene before we could think of returning, of the innumerable hardships and privations that still awaited us, a gloom imperceptibly stole over our imaginations, and hung upon our thoughts like an incubus. But sleep soon dispelled our melancholy, and wild fancy restored us to our friends.

Chapter Fourteenth.

A SEA CAPTAIN AS COOK--A HERD OF DEER--RETURN TO MORMON BAR--KEEPING HOUSE--OUR MACHINE IN MOTION--$1,500 IN ONE HOUR--AN ELOPEMENT--WASH DAY--SPORTING--PROSPECTING--DISCOVERY OF GOLD--EXCITEMENT--FATIGUE--THE CAKES “HURRIED UP”--INCENTIVES TO EXERTION--CANALLING A BAR.

We rose in the morning with renewed vigor, and after breakfast, thoroughly prospecting our bar, (see Plate,) we moved on up the river. We found the passage in many places extremely difficult, obliging us to climb precipices to the height of two to three hundred feet. We examined closely, but found no place sufficiently rich to pay for working. At about 12 M. we arrived at a bar that was being worked by a company that had recently purchased it of another company for $2,500.

Their labor was attended with fair success, but they did not succeed in making wages after paying the above sum. There is a law established by custom in the mines, which allows a man a certain space, generally ten feet, extending across the river. It is by this law that companies take possession of bars, and their claim is never disputed, as it is a privilege of which all wish to avail themselves. We ascended the river still higher, but found nothing to encourage us. We deliberated some time and concluded to reascend the mountain. We returned to the encampment of the above-mentioned bar, where we found an old man, a sea captain, acting as cook. They had no tent, but slept in the open air. The cook had a large camp-kettle hanging on a tripod under a live oak-tree, cooking pork and beans, and preparing dinner for thirty men. It seemed a strange occupation for a sea captain; still, it had not yet lost its novelty, and he seemed to enjoy it much. I noticed, however, that he would frequently hitch up his pantaloons and look “aloft.” After resting an hour

we went to a ravine, filled our flasks with spring-water and commenced ascending the mountain. On arriving near the summit we came upon a herd of deer, and wounded one, but did not succeed in capturing it. We soon found ourselves again in view of the Snowy Mountains and resolved to encamp for the night. After partaking of a sumptuous meal, (pork and hard bread) we again reclined on the couch of nature, her sweetest incense borne by the gentle breezes to our sleeping senses. (The _dust_ was blowing furiously.)

We took an early start on our return to Mormon Bar, and arrived in the evening much fatigued. We resolved to make an effort here at mining, and back it up with any amount of energy. We purchased a machine and made all the preliminary arrangements in the evening, preparatory to a start at an early hour. We had no tent, consequently resolved to rent a suit of apartments from Nature, and looking about we found a large rock on the brink of a precipice, one hundred feet above the river. The place was secluded and pleasant. In front of the rock, on the mountain side, was a kitchen sufficiently large for _our_ family, including the sleeping apartment. The space was shaded by a small oak tree; and, growing against the rock, were two other trees. Behind the rock was a space about twelve feet square, well shaded and was to serve as our dressing-room. A person to jump out of the back window would land in the river.

Tracy had volunteered to act as cook, and in order to have things in harmony, I called him wife, and _he_ was perhaps as well calculated to get along under the circumstances as any _one_ I could have got. As to kitchen furniture, he cared more for the useful than ornamental, and was calculated to manage the domestic affairs with the strictest economy. We had a small camp-kettle, a coffee-pot, and two tin plates; I had a knife and fork and tin cup. Tracy had a pocket-knife, and a water-tight Indian basket, which served him as a coffee-cup. I slung my hammock to the trees that grew against the rock; he spread his blanket on the ground, a few feet distant, and we were keeping house.

We arose in the morning full of energy, and didn’t think there were any two individuals in that “section” destined to accomplish more than ourselves. We shouldered our implements and were soon on the margin of the river. As we were placing our machine, a miner came along and informed us that, on the previous day, a Mr. Eccle had got out in one hour $1,500. We had suspected all along that there were rich deposits in the vicinity, and now our _suspicions_ were confirmed. Our machine was soon in operation, and as the $1,500 would flash across our imagination, I would strike my pick the deeper. Tracy would flourish his dipper, strike up some familiar air, and the cradle would rock as if propelled by the furies. If there had been _anything_ in it except dirt Tracy would have had an accompaniment to his song. We washed through ten buckets, and raised the screen; it did not look very encouraging--we run through ten more--Tracy thought there _wasn’t quite as much as there was before_--he began to lag, and I must confess I was obliged to recur often to the $1,500 to keep the necessary elasticity in my suspenders; we stopped a moment to rest, and speculate on the probable appearance of the spot where the above sum was obtained; we came to the conclusion that it _must_ have looked very like the spot we were then at work in. Our machine was again in motion, and with renewed energy; Tracy was really outdoing himself; the $1,500 would flit through his imagination and he would almost throw the machine into spasms; I expected every moment to see his pantaloons and red flannel shirt part company; the only connecting link was a single India rubber suspender which was stretched to its utmost tension. We resolved to run through one hundred buckets before dinner, and, by straining every nerve, accomplished it. We panned down our half-days’ work--it amounted to two dollars. It had been excessively hot, the thermometer rose to 106°, and when we arrived at our encampment we were as wet as if we had been wading the river. We boiled some pork and sea-biscuit together in our camp-kettle, made coffee, and having placed two large stones against the rock, sat down to dinner. Our spirits were buoyant and our anticipations high.

Soon after dinner our machine was again making its spasmodic movements, and continued them during the afternoon; we did not allow ourselves to forget the strong resemblance between our “lead” and the one in which the $1,500 was obtained. At night we had another two dollars to put into the company purse. It is Saturday night, and we feel that we shall hail the day of rest with pleasure. After supper we retire, having our usual serenade, and during the night one of the troupe made love to and eloped with one of Tracy’s boots; I imagined from a hint thrown out in the morning that he would have preferred dispensing with the music.

Mining operations cease on the Sabbath; and miners attend to mending, washing, &c. Tracy and myself went to the river to do our washing; the vocation to me was entirely new. I commenced on a pair of white merino drawers which I sometimes used instead of pantaloons; they looked very well when I commenced, but it was different after working on them half an hour; it would have troubled an experienced washerwoman to tell what color they ought to be; I first tried soap, then sand, but it was of no use; it appeared only to _set the color_. I put them in the river and put a stone on them; what effect the rainy season had on them, I have not been able to learn. I took my rifle, and trespassed on the Sabbath by shooting a rabbit and several quails; we consequently spent the afternoon in feasting, and on Monday morning were in a condition to _tire_ our machine.

We resolved to run through two hundred buckets, and no two men ought, and few could do more. When night came we had $4 to add to the purse. We resolved to spend the next morning prospecting. We started at an early hour, and after testing a number of points, decided upon one, and immediately started our machine. At noon, not liking the result, we determined to spend the afternoon in a further search. We went some distance up the river, carefully examining every point, until we came to a perpendicular ledge of rocks, overhanging the river. We thought no one had ever attempted to ascend this, and by doing so ourselves might find on the other side what had not been examined. We succeeded in gaining the summit, and on going down the other side, commenced to examine the crevices of the rocks. To our astonishment, Tracy found a piece of gold worth a dollar. We were much excited. It was too much to bear in silence. He opened his mouth to halloo but his eye again fell upon the piece of gold and he did not. We found several smaller pieces, and were now satisfied that we had at last found the place for which we had been so long and anxiously looking. We followed down the side to the river, and there found a small bar, into which the gold must find its way, as it was washed from the crevices above. We examined the bar and found particles of gold, and decided to take possession at once. It was late in the afternoon, but at this particular time, we decided not to put off till to-morrow what ought to be done to-day, and immediately started for our machine, which was a mile distant. We were soon underway ladened with our implements, with perspiration gushing from every pore. We found our task a hard one; were often obliged to rest, and as often would our success flit across our imaginations, when we would again shoulder our machine, and push on. It was dark long before we reached our destination; we were obliged to climb over crags of rocks, where one misstep would have precipitated us into the river below. We toiled on, and at length reached our destination. We would gladly have remained here during the night, but our clothes were saturated with perspiration, and, although the days were hot, the nights were on the other extreme, sometimes rendering it uncomfortably cold, even under our woollen blankets. There was no alternative but to return, and we again ascended the precipice, and after a most fatiguing march reached our encampment. I had heard of people’s bones aching “out loud,” but this was the first exhibition of the kind I had ever witnessed. We were soon in the embrace of Morpheus, and fancy carried us home.

We arose much fatigued, but hope was preëminent, and we were soon under way, with the brightest anticipations. Our machine was again in motion; I never felt stronger, and at every bucket-full Tracy would give his dipper an extra flourish, his India-rubber suspender fairly grinning with excitement. We did not fear for the result, and kept our machine in motion until noon, when on raising the screen we found we had made about fifty cents. We had, however, not yet reached the granite, and our spirits were not dampened. We worked during the afternoon, reaching and scraping the granite, and at night would have been one dollar richer than in the morning, if some one had been boarding us gratis. We had exhausted our lead and took our implements back to the first scene of operations. We continued to labor hard during the week, and Saturday night, on making out our balance sheet, we had earned $13.50 each, which was less than the cost of our provisions. It is said that prosperity begets want, and it was precisely so in our case. On Sunday morning we went to the store, purchased flour at seventy-five cents per pound, and a frying-pan for $5, determined to spend the day in feasting.

A team had just arrived from Sacramento with eight fortunate individuals, who had heard that this was the place where men were getting $1,500 per hour, and as they had just arrived from the States, they were willing to _commence even at that rate_. The teamster informed me that Bent, Harry, and Sam “_put in_” at Sacramento, in “stress of weather,” having got on a drunken spree, and spent the $200. On our arrival at the encampment Tracy took his basket, put in some water, stirred in flour, and was soon using our frying-pan. I practiced turning the cakes, and soon became so skilled that I could hit the pan every time. We held a consultation. Tracy was determined to continue mining, but I resolved to go to Sacramento and prepare to embark in something that would pay better. A few individuals were doing well in the mines, and there were comparatively but few. Ours was about the average success. The mass were merely paying expenses. There were a thousand extravagant stories constantly circulating, of men who had made fortunes in an hour, and Mr. Eccles did really in that length of time, get $1,500 in our immediate vicinity. Each one naturally considered himself destined to be one of the fortunate ones, and if he has only made a dollar to-day, he is quite confident that he will make a hundred to-morrow, or, perhaps, a thousand. The same influences operate upon the mind as in gambling, and chances of success are about equal, although mining is not attended with the same disastrous results.

The country is rich in gold, the supply is inexhaustible. The entire soil of the mountainous parts is impregnated with it. It seems an ingredient or constituent of the soil. Still, in its natural distribution, it is not sufficiently abundant to pay for collecting. It is found most plentifully on bars in the rivers, where it is deposited during freshets, or at the confluence of ravines, which sweep down the side of the mountains uniting at the base, where the gold naturally deposits during the rainy season. “Bars,” in California _parlance_, are the low tongues of land at abrupt bends in the river. (See Plate.) They are generally formed in whole, or in part by freshets. During the rainy season, torrents rush down the sides of the mountains, freighted with gold, dirt and stones, which, when coming in contact with the main stream, are borne along until an abrupt bend in the river checks the current, an eddy sets back a certain distance, at which point the heavy substances are deposited. A canal is cut across the root of the tongue, at the head of which a dam is thrown across the river, which turns the water from its natural channel, enabling miners to work below water-mark.

Chapter Fifteenth.

START FOR SACRAMENTO CITY--THE “NIAGARA CO.”--FREDERIC JEROME--A LOVE-CHASE--HEROINE UNDER A BLANKET--SUSPICIOUS BOOTS--PART OF A LADY’S HAT FOUND--A BALL--ARRIVAL AT SACRAMENTO CITY--POOR ACCOMMODATIONS--RETURN TO THE INTERIOR--A CHASE--A NEW YORK MERCHANT--BEALS’ BAR--EMBARK IN TRADE--A MOUNTAINEER--INDIAN CHARACTERISTICS.

On Monday morning I bade Tracy farewell, and started for Sacramento, promising to report at the earliest possible moment. After walking four miles I was taken sick and stopped at a tent until morning, when, feeling better, I left my rifle and pursued my journey. The heat was excessive, and the road a dreary one, with nothing to break the monotony. I exhausted the contents of my flask and was soon suffering with thirst; I met a gentlemen who supplied me with water, and I moved on. After traveling some twelve miles, as I was pursuing my course I was surprised at hearing a voice, and immediately heard my name called. I looked up and saw at a short distance from the road, two tents, and on approaching, found a company of gentlemen of Lockport, N. Y., who had been fellow passengers up the Pacific. They had started for the interior, and on reaching this point their wagon broke down, the team strayed, and left them no alternative but to encamp. As they were in the immediate vicinity of the river, they had commenced mining, and I am happy to add, with unexpected success. This they richly deserved, for a more gentlemanly, hospitable and energetic set of men, it was never my fortune to fall in with. They styled themselves the “Niagara Co.,” and I have had the pleasure of meeting one of the gentlemen in this city since my return. At their solicitation I visited their works, and remained over night, and when I parted with them in the morning, it was like parting with brothers.

I started at day-break and after traveling an hour, fell in with Frederick Jerome, well known for his heroic efforts, in saving the passengers of the Ocean Monarch. He and his companions were bound for the interior. I soon came out on the margin of a prairie, some four miles in diameter, the road running through its center; I had but just entered upon it, when I discovered the track of a--not a grizzly bear, dear reader, but of a female. I did really discover the track of a female in California. It may seem a trivial circumstance to you, it was not so to me. A galvanic battery would not have created a more startling sensation, and I was half-tempted to faint in honor of the occasion. It was a small foot, encased in a slipper of the finest mould; then there was such a witching air about it, so pert, the toes turned a little out, the heel set down with just enough decision, and a something coquettish in the way she raised it up; then there was a sprightliness and elasticity, quite perceptible. I soon came to where she had turned round, as if she had been expecting me, and without designing to be silly, I soon found myself on a “round trot.” I hurried on, buried in thought and conjecture, sometimes imagining it some one I had seen in the States; the track seemed familiar. Sometimes I would remember having met her at a cotillon party, and then I would notice a change in the track, as if she had been thinking of the same thing, and taking some of the “old steps;” I could see that the toe had removed a greater quantity of dust, as if she had been taking the standing, instead of the “chessa”; balance. But the distance between us was fearful. I could see several miles and could not see her, and she might take another road. As these thoughts were running through my mind, I would come to myself, and find myself running at the top of my speed, the perspiration oozing from every pore. I was fast gaining the opposite side, and hope was in the ascendant.

I began to think of my personal appearance, which is in such cases of the most importance. After a careful examination, I came to the conclusion that it was not very flattering. I had not shaved in six months; I had on an under-shirt and cravat, pantaloons and long boots, a Panama hat, blue flannel shirt outside, over which was a belt with a sheath-knife, and a blue sash. I had seen men as badly dressed as myself. I was in hope she had, and hurried on. I soon reached the forest, and was on the _qui vive_, scanning every rock and log, expecting to find her at rest after her fatiguing walk across the prairie. I walked on, examining every shade, without seeing her. I soon saw at some distance a thick grove of underwood, the road passing through it, and I thought I saw a smoke rising beyond it. I soon arrived near, approaching very cautiously, and keeping an eye in the direction of the smoke. I was not frightened, but my nervous system was in an unusual state of agitation. I wiped off the perspiration, and continued my cautious approach. I was soon sufficiently near to see what I at first thought to be a tent, but on a nearer examination proved to be blankets thrown over a pole, and sweeping the ground. I saw no one. I approached still nearer, and came to the conclusion that she was under the blankets taking her morning _siesta_. I still drew nearer, and stopped to take a survey of the premises. Just beyond the blankets I saw what appeared to be two pairs of heavy boots, and on changing my position they both _appeared_ to have men in them. I neither fainted, nor ran, but I walked on noiselessly to a proper distance and sat down to rest. The men were sleeping on the ground, and I have no doubt the lady was doing the same under her temporary shelter. They had undoubtedly been to the mines, and perhaps became disheartened, and were returning to town.

The scarcity of ladies in California, is the theme of much conversation. There is an anecdote almost universally told in connection with the subject; it is as follows: At a certain point in the mineral regions, part of a lady’s hat was discovered, which caused so much excitement and joy, that it was immediately decided to have a ball on the spot, in honor of the event. Invitations were immediately distributed throughout the country, and, on the appointed day, three hundred miners assembled, each dressed in a red flannel shirt, and accompanied by a bottle of brandy. In the _exact spot_ was driven a stick, five feet high, on the top of which was placed _the_ hat, and around it was wrapped a flannel blanket. It was made to represent, as nearly as possible, a female form. By the side of this was placed a miner’s cradle, or machine, in which was placed a smoked ham, also wrapped in a flannel blanket. At the close of each dance the president of the meeting would rock the cradle, while the secretary would pour a bottle of brandy down the back of the lady’s neck. The ball lasted two days, at the end of which time the ground was surveyed into town-lots, and called Auburn. It has been spoken of in a former chapter.

After waiting an hour without discovering any signs of life in the camp, the sun admonished me that I must move on. I pursued my lonely walk until 11 o’clock, P.M., when I reached the American river. I prepared myself and waded through, and in one hour was passing Sutter’s Fort. The dogs appeared to be on duty, and hailed me with such ferocity that I have no doubt they thought I meditated an attack. I hurried on, and at midnight reached Sacramento city. I found it impossible to get lodgings, and was obliged to seek shelter under some one of the large oaks in the suburbs of the town. Even here it was difficult to find a spot unoccupied. I found a place, however, by going some distance, and spread my blanket with a fair prospect of having the bed all to myself. It had been excessively hot during the day, but now a heavy dew had fallen, the air was cold, and after laying an hour found myself stiff and lame, and chilled to the very heart. I arose, but found it difficult to walk. I succeeded in reaching an unfinished house, into which I crawled, and spent the balance of the night in a vain effort to sleep.

In the morning I took a survey of the town, purchased a horse, and prepared for another incursion into the interior. A friend wished to accompany me, and at 4 o’clock, P.M., we were under way. We crossed the river and took our course across the plain in the direction of the great bend of the American River. Late in the afternoon, as we were galloping along, we fell in with a pack of wolves (coyotas,) and as we were both well mounted we were fast overhauling them. They were crazy with fright, making two or three tremendous leaps, then turning to look at us, their alarm would increase and they would bound away. We were close upon them when my companion’s girth broke, and we were obliged to give up the chase. If they have _ever_ come to the conclusion to stop, I am confident it was not in that immediate vicinity, for I never saw animals so frightened. What they were doing when we came upon them, I am unable to say. It has been suggested that they may have been tuning

their instruments preparatory to their evening concert. I was disposed to fall in with this suggestion, from the fact, that _that_ was the only night during my stay in the country, that I did not listen to their music. If they took the trouble to stick up a notice of postponement, it read, undoubtedly, as follows: “Postponed indefinitely on account of a fright in the family.”

We resumed our journey and at 10 P.M., arrived at the bend. After watering our horses we secured the ends of their lassos, and taking our supper, we rolled ourselves in our blankets. In the morning we directed our course towards Beal’s Bar, a higher point on the river. As we were galloping along (California horses cannot trot) we met a gentleman whom I recognized as a New York acquaintance. He was a New York merchant, and when at home, somewhat noted for his dashing appearance. His appearance on this occasion was so extremely ludicrous, I could not withstand the temptation of taking a sketch. (See Plate.) He was returning from the mines, and at the time we came upon him, a coyota was casting inquisitive glances in that direction, as if in doubt whether it was really a man, or a fellow-member of the _California Harmonic Society_. He had on a slouched hat, which, together with his whiskers and moustache, almost hid his face; a mariner’s shirt, and a pair of drawers, which were, on this occasion, serving in the place of pantaloons, being _suspended_ by two strips of a woolen blanket, crossed in front. A rifle on his shoulder, pipe in his mouth, and blankets in hand, he looked the very personation of a corn-field effigy.

After a short detention we moved on, arriving at the Bar at 12 M. After dinner we went down to the scene of operations, my friend wishing to purchase an interest. The bar was divided into thirty shares, owned by as many individuals. They worked as a company and divided the proceeds at night. Shares were commanding $2,800 each. Beal’s Bar was at this time paying about $20 per day to a man. They had, however, expended a large amount of money in turning the water from the channel. After remaining two hours, we started in the direction of the Mormon Bar, where we arrived at 9 P.M. Tracy was in an ecstasy. He provided supper with great alacrity, and even let my friend occupy half his bed.

I had resolved to engage in the mercantile business at this point, and having heard the present store was for sale, I called on the proprietor for his terms. They did not appear favorable and I started the next morning for Sacramento, accompanied by my friend. We arrived that evening, and the next morning I commenced buying a stock. I was soon on my return. We were three days in reaching our destination, and such a time! We had a span of mules and a span of horses before the wagon, and a nice matched span of drivers. I paid $20 for an extra team on the route, and finally reached our destination. I deposited my goods under a tree, having canvas with which I designed to erect a store. The next morning I succeeded in buying out the other store, and before night had possession. I now felt that I had the helm of a craft I knew how to manage, and was fairly at sea. I immediately hired a Frenchman as cook at $50 per week, and Tracy became a guest. I was now pleasantly situated, with every prospect of success. I soon purchased a share in the bar--paid $1,100. At this time it was yielding abundantly, and I had every assurance of an ample remuneration. Throughout the country there is a strong propensity for gambling. People appear to engage in it for want of other amusement. The store I had purchased had been used for the purpose every night since its construction, but it became so great a nuisance, I was obliged to prohibit it excepting on particular occasions.

I here had an opportunity of seeing many of those strange adventurers who are met with only on the extreme frontiers, and who have as great an aversion to law and civilization as they have to the manacles of a prison. I had had the store but a few days, when one of these strange beings crossed my path. I must confess there was nothing, at first sight, to attract my admiration. About nine in the morning I saw, approaching the store, a strange looking being, mounted on a gray horse, a _poncho_ thrown over his shoulder, over which was slung a huge rifle, skins wrapped around his legs, a pair of Mexican spurs on, and a slouched hat which partially obscured his copper complexion. As he rode up, Tracy recognized him as an old mountaineer, whom he had seen in Santa Fé. After the recognition, Tracy says “Jim! whose horse is that?” Jim--“I’ll be G--d d--nd to H--ll if I know.” Tracy--“where did you get him?” Jim--“_I stole him from an Indian, by G--d._” I have no doubt his declarations were true, for he claimed the credit (and I was informed he deserved it) of being the most accomplished horse-thief in all New Mexico. He informed Tracy that he was “dead broke” and hungry, and wished him to ask me for something to eat. I requested Prince to get him some breakfast, after which he was as rich as Crœsus, and commenced giving me his life. It was a most exciting romance, interspersed with thrilling adventures and “hair-breadth ’scapes.” I was convinced that his story, in the main, was true, not because he _swore_ to it all, but because Tracy was acquainted with the most important facts. He was a mixture of the negro, Indian, and Anglo-Saxon blood, and born in New Mexico. His earliest training was in the art of horse and mule stealing, in which art he had become a connaisseur. He commenced by stealing one at a time, and soon became so proficient, that he could steal whole droves with perfect impunity. He declared that he furnished General Taylor’s army with most of their horses and mules, and that he could raise two thousand head, with twelve hours’ notice--sometimes stealing of the Indians, and at others of the Mexicans. Sometimes he would associate with the whites, and at others with the natives. He was for years, chief of the Crow Indians, and still has a wife and family with them. He led them in numerous battles against the neighboring tribes, alternately winning and losing. He was engaged in the Texan war, was at the battle of San Jacinto, and at most of the battles fought by General Taylor. He was never enrolled in the army, but always fought on his “own hook,” and ready to chase the party that was defeated. He took a middle ground, and was always _just in time_ to join the victorious party.

Indians in their wars have their own peculiar signs and marks by which warriors of the same tribe are informed of the locality of the enemy. These signs are made on the trees, rocks, earth, &c., &c. A detachment of a thousand warriors will start in the evening, and after arriving at a certain point, separate, to scour the country in different directions, and meet at a concerted point, when the moon is at a certain altitude. The party arriving first, drops an arrow, with the point in the direction they have taken; the latter party moving in that direction soon find their friends. But if the enemy is on the alert, the first arrow is dropped, and soon another, which is found at right angles with the first. This is a caution. They move on still farther in the direction indicated by the first arrow, and if there is danger they find two arrows, one across the other. They now stop and secrete themselves. Soon one of the first party approaches them cautiously and informs them of the position of the enemy. In cases of storm, when the sun is hidden, they resort to other indications for the point of compass. They find the moss much thicker on the north side of trees and rocks, than on the south. They also cut into the trees and find the annual growth much thicker on the south, than on the north side. Jim’s legs had the appearance of being bound with cords under the skin, in consequence of the general rupture of the blood vessels. He says he was taken prisoner by the Indians, and in making his escape was chased ninety miles, without stopping for food or rest. The condition of his limbs then compelled him to stop, and secrete himself, where, in consequence of his lameness, he was obliged to remain for three weeks subsisting on roots. Jim, with his other accomplishments, was considered one of the best “_monte_” dealers in Mexico. On visiting the frontier towns, he would spend his time in gambling. Sometimes he would win several thousand dollars in one night, and the next day he would have every man drunk in town; what he could not spend in drink, he would give to the poor, or to his friends. Money was an incumbrance to which he would not submit. After remaining two or three days he mounted his horse and started up the river, designing, as I supposed, not to return.

Chapter Sixteenth.

THE MORMONS--THE ATTEMPTED MURDER OF GOV. BOGGS--CANALLING MORMON BAR--FALSE THEORIES IN REFERENCE TO GOLD DEPOSITS--INFLUENCE OF AMASA LYMAN, “THE PROPHET”--EXCITING SCENE--JIM RETURNS--A MONTE BANK “TAPPED”--JIM’S ADVENT AT SACRAMENTO CITY.

My immediate neighbors were mostly Mormons, headed by Amasa Lyman, one of “the twelve.” The person who shot Gov. Boggs, of Missouri, was also here, under an assumed name. It will be remembered that at the time of the Mormon disturbance in Missouri, it was thought by them that Gov. Boggs connived at their persecution, and several attempts were made upon his life. Scofield, alias, “Orin Porter,” a reckless, daring fellow, loaded a pistol and went to his house; it was in the evening; the Governor was sitting by the light reading a paper. Porter went to the back window, and aiming at his head, discharged the pistol, the ball taking effect in the back part of his head. Porter deliberately laid the pistol on the window-sill, and left. The wound did not prove mortal, and at the time of which I am writing, Gov. B., and two sons, were in California. They had heard of Porter’s rendezvous, and were supposed to be in search of him. He went armed with a brace of revolvers, and one of duelling pistols; he had a dog that was constantly with him, sleeping with him at night to give the alarm in case of danger. He declared his determination to sell his life dearly if attacked. He was much esteemed by the “_faithful_” for his heroism in the above act, consequently they kept an eye to his safety, keeping him informed of the whereabouts of the enemy.

The Mormons held no religious meetings here. They believe in the inspiration of Smith, or “Joseph,” as they call him, and calculate time from the date of his death, as an era, speaking of an occurrence, as in the first, second, or third year of the death of “Joseph.” They believe the Book of Mormon to be a history of the western, as the Bible is a history of the eastern continent. Those here were a _good_ set of fellows, somewhat reckless, fine horsemen, fond of sprees, and an occasional fight. Many of them had belonged to the “Mormon battalion,” under the late Gen. Kearney, of whom they spoke in the most enthusiastic terms. They had all been at “Salt Lake,” and considered that their country, and home, many of them having left their families there. They believe all other religions heresy, and quote Scripture to prove, that the appearance of Smith, and the promulgation of his doctrine, was predicted long before the Christian era, and that that doctrine must prevail universally before the coming of the Millenium. They were all hard workers, and fond of gambling. They had spent ten weeks in canalling the bar, and the first indications were extremely favorable, but it was soon necessary to incur additional expense, in order to drain the deep holes in the bed of the river. The edges of these holes were rich with gold; in spots the granite being quite yellow, so that the gold was scraped up with spoons. It was the natural conclusion that the edges being rich, the bottoms must be more so. The company, that is to say, Amasa Lyman, (for, being one of the prophets, his word was law,) resolved to construct a hose of duck to carry off the water as it was pumped from the holes, consequently sent to town and purchased three hundred yards of duck, which, using three widths, made the hose one hundred yards in length, costing $600--the pump costing $50.

We now commenced draining the deepest and consequently the richest hole, and soon had it in working order; the richness of the margin was, as we thought, infallible evidence that the bottom must yield abundantly; we removed a quantity of dirt and stone, and commenced to wash from the bottom, but, to our surprise, it did not contain a particle of gold; this, like most of the theories in reference to operations in California, was not founded on correct principles. The influence of the stagnant water in the holes seemed to extend to the surface, holding the passing water in check. The current, as it is bearing the gold down stream, comes in contact with this dead water, and parts; receiving a sufficient check to allow the gold to deposit around the margin. Several experiments were tried without success, and it was soon apparent that the speculation was to prove disastrous. The operations were managed without system or discretion. The “_faithful_” having a majority, had it all their own way; and they managed as seemed best calculated to victimize the “Gentiles.” As the sequel will show, _they_ were drawn into the same vortex. I had hired a man to work my share, but the dividends did not pay his wages, and it was apparent that we must dissolve the company, and each man work or abandon his share as he saw fit. It was proposed to divide the bar into equal shares, to be drawn by numbers representing them; the “_faithful_,” however, opposed this mode of distribution; they were in favor of going on, and each getting all he could; each to be allowed ten feet in width, wherever he might locate his machine. They having canalled and worked the bar, knew every foot of it, and the relative richness of the different parts. The “Gentiles” saw no alternative but to be victimized, as they must submit to the majority, and it being Lyman’s motion it was sure to carry. The place of deliberation was at the tents on the side of the mountain, some distance from the bar, and as the work had been suspended for several days, many of the implements had been carried up.

There was an unusual anxiety and excitement on this particular occasion, and as the vote was about to be taken, first the implements, then the bar would be scanned, with marked solicitude; the clenched hand and determined gesture giving token of the fearful struggle that was at hand. The vote was given; each man “_broke loose_” for the bar as if his life depended upon the exertion of the moment; some with machines on their shoulders, others laden with shovels, tin pans, pick-axes, India rubber boots, and spades, all rushing down, pell-mell, some crossing the canal on the log, others, finding the log full, would rush in and wade, or swim across; the implements of some, coming in contact with others, all would tumble in to meet again at the bottom. Any one who has witnessed a charge in battle, can form a faint idea of the confusion and excitement on this occasion. The vanquished, however, instead of being drenched in blood were drenched in water, and instead of broken bones, cries of the wounded, the beating of drums, and torn uniforms, we had broken shovel-handles, curses of miners, the rattling of tin pans, and torn red flannel shirts. It so happened that the “_faithful_” all rushed for the same spot, and when their _lions_ were served the _lambs_ found the balance of the best in the hands of or in the possession of the “Gentiles.” This occasioned considerable sparring among themselves, and resulted in the “lambs” selling out for from ten to fifteen dollars, being their entire summer’s work.

I did not trust my interest at this time, to the supervision of a hired man, but joined in the foot-race, leaving Prince (the cook) in charge of the store. I knew nothing about the best points in the bar, but followed the “Prophet” and his satellites, and when they selected their “leads” I took the one next above; in this lead I had an opportunity of seeing rich deposits, although I kept it from the knowledge of the “faithful.” I would go on the bar at 9 A.M. and work until 12; then from 1 P.M. to 4. On one day I got eleven and a half ounces, and on several days as high as six ounces. The bed of my lead was rotten granite, which in some places was entirely covered, being yellow with gold; in some of the crevices of the rock I would take it out with a spoon, almost entirely free from dirt. The person having the lead next above me found a piece in a crevice worth twenty-five dollars, which was thought extremely large for river gold; it was found in a cavity of its own size and form, and seemed to have dropped in in a molten state. The final result was a loss to almost all concerned in the operation; the same result attended all the canalling operations within my knowledge with one or two exceptions; such experiments, require such immense expenditures that they must be extremely productive to remunerate.

Some three weeks after Jim’s departure, as I was sitting in the store, in the after part of the day, I heard a peculiar whoop, and looking up the side of the mountain I saw a cloud of dust, and a something flying in the air that had the appearance of a sail that had broken loose from its lower yard during a gale; then there were four legs and two other legs, all of them seemed to be running races; whether on the ground or in the air it was difficult to tell. I soon came to the conclusion that it was a trial of speed between Old Gray and Jim; they both arrived about the same time; Jim a little ahead; as between his poncho and old Gray’s _latter extremity_ it was about an even race, and _they_ both _settled down_ quietly, as if glad the race had ended. As Jim drew up to the door, he dismounted, and throwing on the counter a large handkerchief filled with gold and silver, said, “Well, by G--d, captain, I’ve made a raise;” he then untied his handkerchief; there were twenty or thirty dollars in silver, the balance in gold coin; the former he insisted upon my accepting, assuring me that it was of not the least value to him. He had been up the river twenty miles, had fallen in with a Mormon who had some money, and who proposed that Jim should deal “monte” and share the profits; in a few nights they had won $13,000; the half of this was more money than he cared to have by him at any one time, and was on his way to Sacramento City to spend it. He felt in high spirits, and as there were two gamblers along in the evening, who wished to open a “monte bank,” he wished me to allow them to do so, which I did; they had a capital of a few hundred dollars, and Jim was to try his luck at betting, which, by-the-way, he understood _as well_ as the other branch of the game. He watched the run of the cards for some time, then wished to cut them; soon he made a small bet--it won; he made a larger bet, and won it also; after making a few successful bets, he “_tapped the bank_,” and won it; at about midnight he mounted Old Gray for Sacramento City, with as much money as he could conveniently carry.

The next morning a man came to the store, who saw Jim sleeping under a tree, his money under his head, his horse tied with a lasso, having traveled about five miles on his way to town. On his arrival, he looked upon Sacramento City as his guest, and emptied his handkerchief in drinking its health. He had all the inhabitants drunk who were disposed that way, and many of them much against their will. He was quite successful in getting rid of his money, and one week after his advent, he had _invested_ his last dollar. He had engaged to pilot the mail through to Santa Fé, for the government, and the time arrived while he was _entertaining_ the city. Of course, he could not leave just then, and when the officer in charge ordered him to start, he declared in the _strongest_ language, that he considered himself full as good as some men, and better than others. The result was that he was put in irons. One day of such confinement would be sufficient to bring him to his senses, and make him long for his mountain air. I have no doubt that, ere this, he has seen the mail safely deposited at Santa Fé, and is, perhaps, again extensively engaged in the mule trade.

Chapter Seventeenth.

FALSE REPORTS AND THEIR INFLUENCES--DAILY AVERAGE--ABUNDANCE OF GOLD--ORIGINAL DEPOSIT--“COYOTAING”--SAILORS--THEIR SUCCESS AND NOBLE CHARACTERISTICS--THEATRICAL TENDENCIES--JACK IN THE AFTER-PIECE--MINERS ON A “SPREE”--THE WRONG TENT.

There was an almost universal uneasiness felt throughout the mineral regions. Not a day would pass without arrivals and departures. To-day, a report would be in circulation that at a particular point on the Juba, or Feather river, miners were getting one hundred dollars per day. A party would immediately set out, and to-morrow a party will arrive _from that particular point_, having heard that at _this_ point, miners had actually got all they could carry away. They would arrive with a full supply of provisions, utensils, &c., but being disappointed, there would be no alternative but to sell out, as their provisions could not be drawn up the mountain. To-day a man arrives who has prospected throughout the southern mines without success, and fallen in with a report that has brought him to this point. Miners who are successful say nothing about it, but those who are not, are generally fond of making an _impression_. I have now in my mind’s eye several individuals who were almost daily visitors at the store, who had always _just_ discovered a very rich deposit. But strange as it may seem, that deposit never happened to find its way into the individual’s pocket. Now, a man will come in, all excitement, having just discovered, in a mountain gorge, a deposit so rich that gold can be picked up by pounds and half-pounds. He is out of provisions, and on his way to town to lay in a stock, preparatory to availing himself of his rich discovery. He talks incessantly of his prospects, and on his arrival in town imparts the information to the press. It is published as coming from the individual himself, and, of course, worthy of credit. It is copied by papers throughout the world, and universally believed; this individual, however, in the course of a week, has engaged to drive team by the month, or if returning to the mines, goes in some other direction, as if having forgotten his rich discovery. His report, however, sends thousands to look for the spot, which, I need not say, they do not succeed in finding. The _precise spot_ is rarely found; people get within twenty miles of it, but seldom nearer. As if exerting the influence of the Upas tree, they cannot approach within the prescribed limit. At the same time, many were engaged in private leads that were paying well, some averaging an ounce per day, and some even more. At the mouth of a ravine near, there were ten persons at work, who were averaging one and a half ounces per day. There were others in the vicinity doing equally well.

The country had been thoroughly prospected; there was not a bar nor ravine that did not bear the impress of the pick and shovel. There were daily discoveries of deposits, sufficiently rich to pay well; still, such discoveries, in proportion to the number in search of them, were not one to twenty. All were earning something, and the mass more than their expenses, still they were not averaging good wages. A man could place his machine almost anywhere and get two dollars per day; this, however, barely pays for the provisions consumed, and unless a lead will pay _at least_ five or six dollars, it is not considered worth working. A miner finds a lead that pays six dollars, he exhausts it in six, or say ten days; his expenses are two dollars per day, leaving him, at the end of ten days, forty dollars. He now spends a week, perhaps more, before he finds another lead that will pay; his expenses have reduced the amount in hand to twenty-six dollars. If he goes any considerable distance, he must hire a mule to carry his provisions, machine, &c., which will cost him one ounce ($16) per day; two days exhausts his fund. There are in California, two hundred thousand inhabitants. Say half this number are engaged in mining--at five dollars each, it amounts to half a million daily. Now, according to statistics, this is more, by half, than is actually produced, and half this amount, or two dollars and a half, is _about the daily average_, take the mass together.

As I have already remarked, the supply of gold is inexhaustible, and late discoveries show that the rocks constituting the base of the mountains are cemented with it. When proper machinery is brought to bear, and the bowels of the earth opened, discoveries will undoubtedly be made, that will eclipse the most exaggerated calculation. The original deposits were, undoubtedly, in the depths of the earth, and all that has yet been found is that which has been thrown to the surface, by the convulsions of nature. The form and general appearance of the gold, together with the appearance of its places of deposit, are conclusive proofs of this theory. That the country has been convulsed by internal fires, no one who has visited it, can doubt. Mountains of lava are seen towering up, and caverns yawning at their base. The natural conclusion is that many of the original deposits or veins are still undisturbed; and, in the vicinity of the original deposits of those that have, gold must exist, and will be discovered to an extent almost beyond conception.

A system of mining was adopted near the commencement of the rainy season, which went to show that gold is much more plentifully distributed, as you near the original deposit. It was called in California _parlance_, _coyotaing_. It was by digging holes or pits in the ground, generally into the base of the mountains, sometimes penetrating to the depth of fifty or one hundred feet, with the opening just sufficient to admit a man. This mode was found extremely profitable. Miners now also commenced prospecting among the rocks on this side of the mountains, and with very fair success.

Among the operators in the mines, there were none, as a class, so generally successful as sailors. They were numerous, and carried with them those estimable traits for which they are so universally celebrated. They were always, both hand and purse, at the disposal of their neighbors. Nothing afforded them more pleasure than to administer to the wants of others, always acting upon the principle that what _they_ had belonged to the world at large, and they were merely the agents to superintend its distribution. There was a bar in the immediate vicinity, called “Neptune’s Bar,” worked entirely by sailors, and of the twenty canalling operations in the vicinity, it was the only successful one. They were well remunerated, and no one envied their success. They would occasionally have a day of recreation, when all the neighbors would expect to drink; in fact, it was looked upon by all as a gala day, the amusements being of a rare and attractive character. The actors would generally drink just enough to exhibit their most prominent traits. Hogan was full of Shakspeare, and Tom of gunpowder; Charley, a true son of Neptune, would always imagine himself in a gale, and go aloft on the nearest tree; George would laugh; Bill would sing, and Geen would cry; Jack was a long, lank boy of nineteen; his eyes, _on such occasions_, had a peculiar way of closing themselves without his consent, and generally much against _his_ will. The operation was somewhat like closing a lady’s work-bag with a draw-string. He would tell the “yarns,” and it was the only branch of the profession in which he was _au fait_. Hogan would give us a medley, made up of _gems_ from “Macbeth,” “Richard III.,” “Much Ado about Nothing,” and the “Merry Wives of Windsor.” Tom would deploy into line for action, Charley would fall through the hatch, Jack would sell a magic hat to a Jew, while Prince, the cook, would be searching his pockets for yeast. On one occasion Jack was, in theatrical _parlance_, cast, in the after-piece, and he played his part with _much spirit_. He came to the store drunk, with a large sack on his shoulder, _en route_ to the dry diggings. We tried to dissuade him from crossing the river that evening, but he was determined, and staggered down towards the crossing. We all followed, Dewey, being furnished with a lasso, to fish him out in case of accident. Jack was somewhat offended at the interest manifested in him, and mounted the log with an emphatic oath. He walked steadily until he had reached the middle of the stream, when, thinking no doubt that it was time to begin to climb the mountain, he raised his head, lost his balance, and fell in. The weight of the sack first took him to the bottom, but he soon rose to the surface, when Dewey threw the lasso, caught him around the neck, and drew him out. This was somewhat embarrassing to Jack, but he possessed too much courage, at this particular time, to give it up, and again mounted the log. This time he walked much farther, so that there should be no mistake about it, but he again looked up with the same result as before. The stream was very rapid, and was fast carrying him down, but Dewey’s unerring lasso took effect, and he was again drawn up the bank. This way of wearing cravats Jack was not accustomed to, and it was sometime before he could raise wind sufficient to carry him from his moorings.

The third attempt was made with better success. He reached the opposite side, but in stepping off the log, stumbled, and, the bank being steep, he rolled back to the margin of the river; Dewey again threw the lasso, and Jack recrossed. This closed the scene; Jack did not come before the curtain, and, I suspect, that if there had been one near, he would have got behind it.

Occasionally the miners of that entire region of country would get on a spree, go to some drinking establishment, all get tight, and have a merry row. They would keep it up during the day, and at evening some one perhaps would propose going home. This would be favored by some, but generally met by a proposition to have another round, which would invariably carry; then some would be accused of not having treated; he would acknowledge the soft impeachment, and another round would be ordered. They would all drink to friends at home in general, then to some particular personal friend. Some one would propose going to the dry diggings the next day, prospecting. Well, all in favor of going with Price, to-morrow, to the dry diggings, will form on this side--opposed, on the other; opposed are in the minority, and must treat. Some would get mad and start for their tents, but having, at this particular time, very vague ideas of localities, instead of going down the river, they would go up the side of the mountain, and, _vice versa_; others would start, but by some mysterious movement, the earth would _fly up_ and hit them in the face. The balance of the party would take the last drink and start, all wishing to go to the same place, but each, having his own peculiar ideas, as to the direction.

After wandering about for some time, each would call to the others, informing them that _he_ was right, and of course when all were right none were wrong; but in the sequel not one, perhaps, out of the twenty, would reach his tent during the night. On one occasion, one of the party, after having taken the last drink, mounted his mule, designing to go one mile up the river, but, on reaching the mouth of the ravine, the worthy animal turned down stream. In the course of the night the rider, as he supposed, reached his tent, and in attempting to dismount, being somewhat _fatigued_, he fell against the side of it and rolled in at the bottom; to his surprise he found it occupied by an individual, who, disliking his abrupt _entrée_, brought his revolver into requisition; the matter was explained, and our worthy rider found himself in the tent of a stranger, five miles from his own.

Chapter Eighteenth.

ARRIVALS--PREPARATION FOR THE RAINY SEASON--NEW DISCOVERIES--COLOMA--GAMBLERS _versus_ BAYONETS--“HANGTOWN”--PUBLIC EXECUTIONS--FASHIONABLE ENTERTAINMENTS--WILD CATTLE--DANGEROUS SPORTING--MURDERED INDIANS--THE WRONGS THEY SUFFER.

After the result of the different canalling operations was known, being about the first of October, there was a general uneasiness felt throughout the mines, partly owing to the ill-success attending the above, and in part to a desire to make preparations for the approaching rainy season, which was expected to set in about the first of November. People were constantly arriving from San Francisco, having been informed that this was the “_precise spot_.” The overland emigration was also arriving, and there was a universal desire to change positions. Those having productive private leads, were anxious to sell, go into the “dry diggings,” throw up dirt, and prepare for operating during the rainy season. Some of the canalled bars were not entirely abandoned, and much of the stock was in market; but those who purchased it, were in a similar condition to the man who purchased the bear skin, the worthy owner of which was running wild in the forest, little suspecting that so important a part of himself, had been made the subject of a mercantile contract.

There were frequent reports of rich discoveries in the mountain gorges, and many of them were found quite productive, inducing the occupants to throw up temporary habitations to protect them during winter. Those who wished to retain their claims on the river, would do so by leaving some utensil to keep possession, and spend a week in prospecting in the mountains. If successful in finding a productive spot, the pick-axe would be left in charge. A rich deposit was found in the mountains about four miles distant, to which the attention of all was directed, and many threw up temporary huts and made preparation for the approaching winter. The place immediately assumed the appearance of a town. Stores were erected and filled, and _monte-banks_ established to amuse the citizens. This newly discovered dry diggings is twelve miles from Coloma, the point at which gold was first discovered; the intervening distance being a succession of mountain gorges, all containing gold, many of the vales being in the possession of herds of wild cattle, that have never, until recently, been visited by man.

Coloma is situated on the south fork of the American River, fifty-five miles from Sacramento City. The valley, though small, is one of the most beautiful in the State, being about three-fourths of a mile in width, and walled up on either side by lofty mountains. The saw-mill in the race of which gold was first discovered, is still standing and in operation. (See Plate.) The location of the town is extremely pleasant, being near a bend of the river, and commanding an extended view of the surrounding country. It was once infested by gamblers, but the miners took the matter in hand and drove them out at the point of the bayonet. A gigantic enterprise has been undertaken just below the town, by Mr. Little, of Maine. There is an abrupt bend in the river, the sweep around being three miles, and but a half-mile across; this half-mile is being tunneled to draw the water from the natural channel, which is supposed to be very rich in gold. A large frame was erected here for a flouring-mill, at the time the saw-mill was erected; but Mr. Sutter changing his plans, had it removed to the fort, and after the breaking out of the gold excitement it was taken to Sacramento City and erected, making the first hotel, in point of size and accommodations, in town, called the City Hotel. On the right of the accompanying plate will be seen a remnant of that persecuted and doomed race, the native California Indians.

Hangtown, now Placerville, is situated three miles from the south fork of the American River, twelve miles from Coloma and fifty-five from Sacramento City. It is a dry diggings, or mountain gorge, and one of the most productive in the State. The surrounding country is extremely mountainous, with innumerable gorges, from which gold has been obtained in great abundance.

Its first name originated in the execution of two men, a Spaniard and a Frenchman. They were guilty of murder and robbery, tried before Judge Lynch, and executed, all within twenty-four hours.

Soon after this, a man or lad, who was known as Irish Dick, had a difficulty with a person at a gaming table, in the Eldorado, after which he waylaid and murdered him. This was the second murder of which he had been guilty, and for this, his own life fell a sacrifice. The miners took him in charge, tied a rope round his neck, then giving him the other end, compelled him to climb a tree, go out on one of the limbs, fasten the end of the rope, and at the drop of a handkerchief, jump off. He complied with apparent cheerfulness, and died without a struggle.

This is now the first stopping-place for the overland emigration, from which cause, as well as that of the superior richness of the surrounding mountain gorges, it has become a place of much importance. At the time of which I am writing there were several rude houses constituting the town, all under the supervision of males--females, like the visits of their illustrious prototypes, being few and far between. I think the first one had not yet made her appearance.

No nation with less genius than the “universal Yankee,” could have survived the privation, and even of these it required the genuine “wooden nutmeg” species, a couple of specimens of which are faintly portrayed in the accompanying plate. Their garments are of a cut not _generally_ adopted in the Atlantic cities, yet I can assure the reader they are eminently fashionable in California. The general appearance of these individuals is a true index to the order and systematic arrangement that pervade the interior of their habitation. Nothing is done for show or ornament; everything bearing the impress of practicality and economy--one frying-pan, two tin-plates, both slightly touched with “ile,” to prevent rust, their knives in their pockets and forks in their _hair_. They are just going in, having finished their day’s work. They are practical miners, both having made fortunes at the business. Their house is well known by every one who has traveled through that region of the country, and many will associate with the “Yankee House” pleasant recollections, it having been a general resort and nightly scene of a sociable soirée, or something more brilliant.

There are numerous herds of wild cattle in these mountainous regions, which have never been hunted or molested by man, until since the discovery of gold, and even now their wildness and impetuosity render their capture extremely uncertain and perilous. The mountaineers, who always carry their lives in their hands and court danger in every form, are extremely loth to attack a wild bullock, even when well armed and mounted.

The grizzly bear is a universal terror, and is rarely molested by experienced hunters, yet their capture is thought less perilous than that of a wild bullock, for these when wounded become frantic, and nothing can withstand them. Mr. Lewis, a neighbor who had gained a notoriety by his success in hunting the grizzly bear, having captured two in one day, and several others at different times, all through the fleetness and superior training of his mule, resolved to make an attempt upon a herd of wild cattle that were in the mountains not far distant. He considered his mule equal to any emergency, and having a rifle that plainly spoke for itself, he started on his perilous adventure. He found the herd feeding in a ravine, and approached very near before they eyed his mule with suspicion. They seemed quite unconscious of approaching danger, until one of them, catching the scent of the foe, threw up his head, gave the peculiar signal, and all were in motion; at this instant the rifle was discharged, the ball taking effect in the neck of one of the bullocks, bringing him upon his knees; he immediately recovered, and wheeling about, bounded with headlong speed in the direction of the mule. The moment was a critical one, the mule under the sting of the spur was doing his utmost, the bullock in hot pursuit, his eyes flashing fire, his tongue hanging from his mouth, the blood streaming from his nostrils, and he foaming and bellowing with the most terrific fury, gaining upon his adversaries at every bound. At length, he was upon them, the rider seeing no other alternative, caught the limb of a tree letting the mule pass on. The next bound, however, was his last, for the bullock overtaking him, struck him in the side bringing him to the ground, and after goring him several times, bounded away in the direction taken by the herd, and soon disappeared. Upon visiting the location of the above-described occurrence a few days thereafter, in passing through a slight gorge, I came upon

the bodies of three Indians who had been dead apparently about two weeks, each bearing the marks of the unerring rifle; they had been among the whites as their dresses indicated, two of them having on jean shirts, the other a blue flannel. Two of them were shot through the chest, the other through the head; the sight was a sad one, and gave rise to melancholy reflections, for here these poor beings are hunted and shot down like wild beasts, and these no doubt fell by the hand of the assassin, not for lucre but to satiate a feeling of revenge.

In an adjoining territory the “red man” had a quiet home; their “wigwams” were always supplied with venison, their corn-fields ripened in autumn, their rude traps furnished clothing for the winter, and in the spring they danced in praise of the “Great Spirit” for causing flowers to bloom upon the graves of their fathers; but the white stranger came and took possession of their hunting grounds and streams, and harvested their corn. They held a council and decided that the Great Spirit had sent the white stranger, and it would be wrong not to give him all he wished; they collected their traps, bows, and arrows, and prepared to fall back in search of new streams and hunting grounds; they paid the last visit to the graves of their fathers. What were their feelings? The moon threw a pale, dim light through the foliage, the air breathed a mournful sigh as they reached the lonely mound; the stout-hearted warrior drew his blanket to hide his tears as he bowed down to commune for the last time with the spirits that had so often blessed him in the chase; his heart was too full, and he fell upon his face and wept bitterly. But, a last adieu; they rise, cross the arrows over the grave, and walk mournfully away; the Great Spirit gives them a new hunting ground, and the corn ripens on the plain, but soon the white stranger comes and tells them to fall back. They are at the base of the mountain; there are no hunting grounds beyond; if they go into the mountain their corn will not ripen, and their “papooses” will starve in the wigwam; they hold a council and decide to defend their homes against the encroachments of the white stranger. The whites were strong, and drove the red man into the mountains, and for the crime of having _tried_ to defend their homes and offspring, they are placed under a ban, and hunted down like wild beasts. No matter where they are found the crime of being a red man is a forfeiture, not only of all right to property but to life itself.

Will not some philanthropist rise above sectional prejudices, and undertake the regeneration of this truly noble but down-trodden people? Had I the wealth of an Astor I would not wish a better or nobler field for immortality.

The first man I met after my arrival in the interior was an Oregonian on horseback, armed with a revolving rifle in search of Indians. He had had a horse stolen, and presumed it was taken by an Indian; he swore he “would shoot the first red-skin he met,” and I had no reason to doubt his word; still the chances were ninety-nine out of the hundred, that the horse was stolen by a white man. I have no doubt the three Indians above spoken of were wantonly shot while walking peaceably along their trail.

Chapter Nineteenth.

CANALLING OPERATIONS--UNSUCCESSFUL EXPERIMENTS--COFFEE MILLS AND GOLD WASHERS--FORMATION OF BARS--GOLD REMOVED FROM THE MOUNTAINS DURING THE RAINY SEASON--SNOW ON THE MOUNTAINS, AND ITS DISSOLUTION--RISE AND FALL OF THE RIVER--STOCK SPECULATIONS--QUICKSILVER MACHINES--SEPARATION OF GOLD AND QUICKSILVER--INDIVIDUAL ENTERPRISE--INCENTIVES TO EXERTION--EXPENSES.

To give the reader a more definite idea of the success attending mining, I will detail the result of the different operations in the vicinity of my place of business, commencing one mile above and extending four below; this is said to be as rich as the same extent on any river in the country. The Manhattan Bar was canalled and dammed by the Manhattan Co., being a party of New Yorkers, including Gen. Winchester and brother. After expending a large amount in turning the water from the bed of the river, they purchased several quicksilver machines at one thousand dollars each, and immediately put them in motion. It required but few days to convince them of the failure that must attend the enterprise; the machines did not collect enough to pay the men who worked them, and they were immediately abandoned for the common rocker, which, in their turn, were abandoned together with the entire work.

The next in order was the Vigilance Bar; here a large amount of money was expended, and almost the entire summer devoted to the construction of a dam and canal, all of which, proved an entire loss to the parties concerned; they did not get enough to pay for the provisions consumed during the construction of the work. In the immediate vicinity of this was the Union Bar; a still greater amount in money and labor was expended here, but, as in the case of the Vigilance Co., it proved a total failure. In these two cases, sixty men had spent the entire summer in hard labor, and now were obliged to encounter the rainy season, many of them in debt, and but few with sufficient means to buy a month’s provisions. In the latter company were several young Philadelphians, sons of the first men of that city; an adventurous spirit had induced them to leave their homes, and they were now encountering the _realities_ of active life. Lacy’s Bar was next in order; there were many rich private leads in the vicinity of this bar, and it contained within its bounds many rich deposits. Soon after the completion of the canal the bar was offered for sale--a _fire_ or _flood_ at St. Louis making the proprietors’ return to the States imperative. I was unable to learn whether said fire or flood above-mentioned had actually transpired or was merely in anticipation, nor am I prepared to name the _precise_ amount of _net profits_ made by the purchasers of the above bar. Next is the Mormon Bar; the details as well as the result of this enterprise have been heretofore given. The next is Kentucky Bar; this undertaking paid to each stockholder seven hundred dollars, which was good wages. Next was Neptune’s, commonly known as “dead man’s bar,” the body of a miner having been found upon it; this bar was worked by sailors, and was the most productive in the country. It was said by those concerned, that they generally took out one pound ($200) per day to the man. The rainy season, however, destroyed their works before they had accumulated fortunes. The next bar was small, and without a name; operations here were unsuccessful, and soon abandoned.

The next bar I will name Woodworth’s Bar; when I visited it three men were working a machine made by a Mr. Woodworth, of New York city; its construction was somewhat on the plan of, and much resembled, a large sized coffee-mill. For mining purposes the coffee-mill would have been decidedly preferable. Fortunately for miners but few of the machines made in the States ever found their way into the mineral regions; this being the only one I saw during my stay in the country. Immense numbers were shipped, and arrived in the bay of San Francisco; but, being pronounced entirely worthless, they were thrown overboard, not worth even the lighterage. This bar also proved a failure. The next below was Lehigh Bar; this was canalled, and immediately abandoned as worthless. Then came Little and Great Horse-Shoe Bars, neither of which paid for the labor bestowed upon them. Not to mention the small intervening bars, I will pass on and mention, lastly, Smith’s Bar; this was one of the most gigantic works undertaken on the river. During its progress the feelings of those concerned were of the most sanguine character; in digging the canal they frequently came upon rich deposits, which would throw all into a phrensy of excitement, and some realized small fortunes by selling out during the progress of the work: after the completion of the work machines were put in operation, and all were expecting to reap golden harvests; some of the machines produced most bountifully, and others almost nothing. A few days convinced them that, as a party, they could not make wages, and the result was similar to those mentioned above.

In all the bars mentioned there were points of extreme richness. The calculations of those engaged in canalling were based upon a false, though somewhat plausible theory; the margin being rich, they very naturally came to the conclusion that the bed of the river must be much more so. It appears, however, that gold _does not_ settle in the channel, but is borne along until some abrupt bend in the river checks the current, when it settles, together with the stone and earth, forming bars, which have been described in a former chapter. It is understood that these bars are formed during the rainy season. Torrents rush down the mountains, and on reaching the stream unite in bearing along the precious freight. It may seem strange that the current can convey gold to any considerable distance; it is nevertheless true, and it may seem less strange to one who has known the river to rise from twenty to thirty feet in as many hours. In such freshets the _natural_ channel has no influence, the torrents claiming for their boundaries the mountains that tower up on either side. What is rain in the moderately elevated regions, is snow as you advance higher up into the mountains. This causes a long season of high water. The snow does not dissolve during the rainy season, the sun being obscured--but at its cessation torrents rush down the side of the mountains, and, not infrequently, huge masses of snow, as if impatient of their slow dissolution, will break loose from their fastenings, and with a terrific sweep dash into the chasm below. At this season of the year the rise and fall of the rivers are as uniform as the tides.

As the sun approaches the meridian, streams become swollen, frequently rising several feet, and fall as it disappears behind the mountains. It ceases to rain about the first of March, but in consequence of the immense quantities of snow on the mountains, streams do not resume their natural channels until the first of July, at which time, deposits made during the flood are found, as a general thing, above water-mark. One cause and perhaps the main one, of the almost universal failure of canalling operations is, that the facilities attained do not counterbalance the enormous expenditures requisite. Another difficulty is that a company of thirty men cannot, in the mines, operate with the same economy of time that they can when working in pairs. As I had lost on my stock in the Mormon Bar I determined to make it up by buying in the balance, which I did at from ten to fifteen dollars per share, and eventually sold it at several hundred per cent. advance to a company designing to operate upon it with quicksilver machines. Gen. Winchester & Co. became joint owners, and soon several of the machines were in successful operation, propelled by water drawn from the canal. The success of the experiment was placed beyond a doubt. The machines used were called the “Burk rocker.” They were placed on an inclined plane, and in the upper riffles, which were of iron, was placed a quantity of quicksilver. Dirt was thrown in at the upper end of the machines, and as it was washed through, the rocking motion would bring it in contact with the quicksilver, which having a strong affinity for the gold, carefully collects it without including any other substance. After the quicksilver has taken up, or freighted itself to its utmost capacity, and become a solid mass, or amalgam, it is taken out and its place supplied.

In separating the gold and quicksilver the amalgam is put into a retort, to the top of which is screwed a crooked iron tube, the end passing into a vessel of water. A heat is raised under the retort of six hundred degrees, which causes the quicksilver to evaporate and pass up into the tube, when it condenses and passes down into the water. This operation is performed at a loss of only two and a half per cent. of the quicksilver. These machines were purchased at a cost of one thousand dollars each, although in the States they are worth less than forty. Their

operation was very successful, and had it not been for the early deluge would have made fortunes for their owners.

The result attending individual enterprise was similar to that of canalling, with the exception that in the former case heavy debts were not contracted, and the individual, if he had not a fortune in his pocket, felt that what he earned was his own. I had a good opportunity to learn the daily proceeds of each man’s labor, my scale being at their service and almost universally used. I could name one hundred individuals, take them in order as they were operating along the river, and not more than ten of the number had, at the commencement of the rainy season, sufficient means to purchase provisions for the winter. They had labored hard; to-day, opening a lead; to-morrow, getting out an ounce; and the day after prospecting. They had been all summer just on the eve of making a rich discovery and a fortune, the prospect was always bright and cheering, the prize just, almost, within the grasp--to-morrow--never more distant than to-morrow. The lead is open to-day, to-morrow the reward, that to-morrow dawned to comparatively few. It is _still_ about to dawn, and sought with the same enthusiasm. Could the miners have pocketed all they took from the earth, few, perhaps, would have had reason to complain, but the attending expenses were so great that it was almost impossible to live and keep anything in the purse. They would eat up at night what they had earned during the day, consequently the proceeds of labor passed immediately into the hands of those in trade.

Chapter Twentieth.

COMMOTION IN THE POLITICAL ELEMENTS--CALIFORNIA A STATE--SLAVERY PROHIBITED--POLITICAL CAMPAIGN, AND THE RAINY SEASON--SPEECH OF A WOULD-BE-GOVERNOR--ENTHUSIASM AND BRANDY--ELECTION DISTRICTS--BALLOT-BOXES AND UMBRELLAS--MINERS IN A TRANSITION STATE--PREPARATIONS FOR THE RAINY SEASON--PRIMITIVE HABITATIONS--TRADE IMPROVING--ADVENT OF THE RAINY SEASON--ITS TERRIFIC EFFECTS--RAPID RISE OF THE RIVER--MACHINES DESTROYED--ARRIVALS--MY STORE AND BED--A BUSINESS SUIT--DISTRESSING GROANS--THE BOTTLE A CONSOLATION--SEVERAL STRANGE SPECIMENS OF HUMANITY COOKING BREAKFAST--THE SCURVY--A DEATH.

We now, for the first time, had a commotion in the political elements, which resulted in erecting California into a State and placing her, the “bright particular star,” in this glorious constellation. An election was ordered, and delegates selected to draft a Constitution for the State. They met at Monterey, and after a few days’ deliberation passed upon the Constitution which is hereunto annexed, and which was eventually ratified by an almost unanimous vote of the people. The greatest unanimity prevailed at the Convention, the deliberations conducted with the utmost dignity, each seeming desirous to act for the best interests of the country. The clause prohibiting slavery, or involuntary servitude, passed by a unanimous vote, although many of the delegates were interested in slave property in the States. The nominations were made for State officers, and, although party lines were not strictly drawn, every preparation was made for a vigorous campaign.

The election was to take place on the 15th day of November, and by the time the nominees were ready to take the “stump,” the rainy season was upon us. Just picture to your imagination a would-be-governor, in a slouched India rubber hat, a _poncho_, and high boots, standing near a tent on the side of the mountain holding forth to a highly patriotic audience of six, the rain pouring down in torrents. Nothing could dampen the ardor of the speaker; he had enlisted in the cause of the dear people, and nothing could induce him to swerve from the performance of his duty. The gist of his remarks was as follows:--“Fellow citizens, you _have rights to protect_. [Hurrah! Three cheers and two drinks of brandy.] _I’ll spend my last breath in the vindication of those rights._ [Three more!!] The mineral lands ought to be given to the people. [Three times three!!! Three cheers and six drinks.] _Have not the sovereign people made this country what it is?_ [Yes! Yes!! and great cheering.] If I am elected I will use my influence to have this immense tract of country, now claimed by Sutter, divided among the people.” [Immense sensation and cheering.] After order was again restored, the speaker was invited to step out of the puddle of water that had dripped from his _poncho_, and take something to drink. The meeting was conducted with _much spirit_, and resulted in securing the votes of a majority present for the would-be-Governor.

At this time, this district of country, called the Minerva district, had become so populous that municipal officers had been elected, and now it was regularly divided into election districts, and arrangements made to open polls wherever it was deemed necessary. The qualification for an elector was to be an American citizen. The most prominent candidates for Governor were Judge Burnett, H. S. Sherwood and Rodman M. Price, of whom the former was elected. On the day of election the ballots were deposited in a hat, over which one of the inspectors held an umbrella.

The middle of October finds the miners in a transition state. There has not a drop of rain fallen during the entire summer, and the earth, six feet below, is as dry as on the surface; one cannot move without being enveloped in dust; and vegetation is as crisp as if it had just been taken from the oven. There has been no haze to shield the earth from the sun, and at night the stars have twinkled with unwonted brilliancy; but now the sun has grown dim and pale, and the stars have fled to their hiding-place. Miners are admonished that it is time to prepare for an untried winter, and on every hand is evinced a disposition not to be taken unawares. Here on the side of the mountain is a habitation, three logs high, covered with canvas, the crevices well “mudded,” all the light used being admitted through the door. There is a cave, walled and roofed with rocks, the canvas closing the entrance being the only indication that it is a tenement. An army tent is also seen, which is well secured, as if in momentary expectation of the approaching blast; dirt has been thrown well over the foot, to prevent the winds from searching out the occupant. In front is a tree, under which is a camp-kettle and frying-pan, and near are a few dying embers, the smoke curling up and mingling with the foliage. It seemed hard that one accustomed to the luxury of a comfortable home, should be doomed to spend the winter in this forlorn condition. Climbing up the side of the mountain, are seen mules heavily laden with provisions and mining utensils, which are destined to some favorite spot in the mountain gorges. Trade begins to improve, miners are laying in their supplies for the winter, and merchants find their stocks exhausted, and are driven to town to replenish. The sun assumes a peculiar color, and where it is reflected in the water is a “royal” purple. Its rays had become very dim, and on the 27th of October the deluge burst upon us.

General Winchester and company had just placed their quicksilver machine, and commenced successful operations on the bar, but one night destroyed their works, carrying one of their machines, laden with twenty-five pounds of quicksilver, a distance of three miles, destroying it, and emptying its valuable contents into the river. The rise of the river was so rapid that those on the opposite side, when it commenced to rain, found it impossible to recross six hours after. The scene was most terrific; the mountain on either side of the river, rose almost perpendicularly, and the torrents rushed down, undermining huge rocks, which, after making a few leaps, would come in contact with others of equal dimensions, when both, with one terrific bound, would dash into the chasm below.

Mining operations were, for the time, suspended, and miners, many of whom were destitute of even the protection of a tent, were hovering about their fires in a most desponding mood; many were entirely destitute of means, and cooking, perhaps, their last day’s supply. Teams were constantly arriving with miners fresh from the States, who would descend the mountain

with high hopes, having been so fortunate as to fall in with some one who had directed them to this particular spot. They were generally well supplied with provisions, and notwithstanding the drenching rain, one hour after their advent would find them busily engaged with the pan and pick-axe.

The store I occupied was made by driving stakes into the ground, and inclosing with common unbleached muslin; the roof flat, covered with the same material. It had answered a good purpose during the summer, but for the rainy season, I am not prepared to say it was exactly the thing. I do not know that the rain fell faster inside than out, but some of my neighbors insinuated that it did. I could keep tolerably dry by wearing an India rubber cap, _poncho_, and long boots, with the aid of a good umbrella, in short, this was my regular business suit. For a bed, I had a scaffold made of poles, on which I had a hammock stuffed with grass and straw, using a pair of blankets as covering. In order to keep my bed dry I had a standard at the head and foot, on which was a pole running “fore and aft,” serving as a ridge-pole, over which was thrown an India rubber blanket. On going to bed I would throw up one corner of my India rubber blanket, holding my umbrella over the opening, and after taking off my boots, I would crawl in feet first, throw back the rubber to its place, then tying my umbrella to the head standard I was in bed. My friends, Fairchild, Tracy, Jones, and Dean were not so fortunate. They would lay down on the ground in their blankets, and in one hour would be drenched to the skin; in this condition they were obliged to spend the balance of the night. Jones (formerly of the Cornucopia, New York) had a severe cough, his lungs being much affected, and he thought he was fast declining with the consumption. After becoming drenched and chilled his cough would set in, which, together with his distressing groans, would render night hideous, and cast a gloom over the most buoyant spirit. On rising in the morning, the bottle was our first consolation; it would elevate our spirits, and drive the chilly sensation from our limbs. A few large sticks had been thrown together and set on fire, around which would be seen a dozen strange-looking specimens of humanity, one with a red flannel shirt, part of a glazed cap, and torn unmentionables; another with a woolen-blanket, that could boast of having secured, on the previous night, what rain had fallen in its immediate vicinity; another with an India rubber _poncho_ and a hat that had been used both sides out, and, as if to assume a ferocious appearance, it had adopted the color of the grizzly bear. All hovering around the fire, some with pieces of pork on the ends of sticks, others with something in a frying-pan, covered with a tin plate; one is stirring flour and water together, while his companion is trying to turn the cakes; about every other one is disposed to go into the fire.

A disease at this time manifested itself, the symptoms of which were of a peculiar nature. It was called the “land scurvy,” and was caused by a want of proper vegetable diet. The blood of the system became thick and turgid, and diminished in quantity; there was but little circulation at the extremities, or near the surface of the body, the fleshy parts becoming almost lifeless; the gums became black and not unfrequently the teeth would fall out, the gums having so entirely wasted away. The malady became fearfully prevalent, and no remedy could be obtained; vegetables were not to had, there were none in the country. There had been a few, a very few, potatoes in the market, at prices varying from four shillings each to a dollar and a half per pound, but the supply was too scanty to arrest the disease, and many had become almost entirely disabled.

On the 28th of October, a man from Illinois fell a victim to this dreadful malady, and on the 29th, it was our painful duty to bear him to that lonely hill and consign him to the tomb. A board was placed at his head, on which was cut his brief epitaph. What a strange commentary upon the vicissitudes of human life. He was once an infant, fondled and caressed by an affectionate mother, a youth counseled by a doting father, and embraced and loved by sisters and brothers. He grew to manhood, pledged his hand and heart to the one he loved, combatted, perhaps, with adversity, and finally bade farewell to his own offspring, to die a stranger in a strange land.