Part 11

m[=a]´-m[=a]-[)a]-kut. Former big village on m[=a]´-ma-kut creek.

'klew-taw-m[)e]-ting. Former village on the E side of Redwood Cr.

nahs-kah´-nah-kut. Former village high up on Redwood Cr.

_North Fork villages._--The information on this group comes from Merriam's notes (M) and from Loud (1918) (L). (See map 15.)

46. klokeche (L).

47. kaw-cho'-sish-tin-tang (M). Large village at Blue L.

48. me-k[=a]´-t[)a]-met (M). Village on North Fork Mad R. between Korbel and Riverside (nearer Riverside).

mik[=e]time (L). Name said to refer to being behind North Fork of Mad R.

49. k[=a]-tsi'-[)a]-too (M). Camp just below Big Rock at Korbel.

50. hoo-tso'-e-choo'-kah (M). Village (or camp) on the site of the present store at Korbel.

51. ki'loo-whit´-teng (M). Fishing camp on North Fork Mad R. 1/4 or 1/2 mi. above Korbel (where gum trees are, just below picnic ground).

52. kis-t[=a]'-[)a]-kut (M). Camp for winter fishing on North Fork Mad R. at Korbel picnic ground (Camp Bar) about 1 mi. above Korbel.

gestAkAt (L). Name said to refer to a deep fishing hole.

53. noo-l[)e]h´-m[)e]h (M). Fishing camp at falls about 1/2 mi. above Korbel picnic ground. Only one kind of salmon can get up these falls.

54. ts[=e]-in[=a]t[=u]lwo-ten (L). tse, "sticks," which were left there after a prayer.

55. khaiyame (L). Name said to refer to an eddy at the base of a waterfall.

ETHNOGRAPHIC NOTES

The following note is taken verbatim from the Merriam files.

The Nose Stick: The Redwood Hoi-let'-hah tell me that their tribe never perforated the nose during life, but when a person died they charred a piece of poison oak to make it strong, and sharpened it and bored a hole with it through the septum of the dead person's nose and then put handsome Dentalium shell money in the hole before burying the person.

The Tol-lo-wah of Crescent City and Karok of Upper Klamath River (Orleans Bar to Happy Camp) were the only Indians the Redwoods knew who dared wear the nose shell when alive--the other tribes were afraid to do so.

HUPA

The Hupa are the best known of the California Athabascan groups. They live in the drainage area of the Trinity River from a short distance above its mouth to a little above the mouth of South Fork Trinity and in the drainage area of the South Fork Trinity up to the mouth of Grouse Creek (pl. 10, _a_).

There have been a number of papers published on a variety of aspects of Hupa life but the main sources of general ethnography are Goddard's paper (1903_a_) and Kroeber's Hupa section in the Handbook (1925_a_, pp. 128-137). The Hupa are the same, in many ways, as the Yurok, so the sizable literature on that group is also useful.

The territory occupied by the Hupa differs in several respects from that of the other Athabascan tribes. The elevation of their lands is everywhere over 2,000 feet and in places rises to 4,000 or 5,000 feet. Because of the elevation there is a good deal of snow in the mountains surrounding the valley and this fact may have somewhat isolated the Hupa from their Athabascan neighbors during the winter months, although it is known that they were in close contact with some of the Whilkut.

The fish resources of the Hupa territory also constituted an important distinction. The Trinity is the only river in the Athabascan area in which there is both a spring and a fall run of salmon. This resource must have been very important to the Hupa. It is significant that in the many intensive studies of the Hupa there is no report of any summer camp away from the river. The Hupa were evidently even more firmly attached to their riverine environment than were the other Athabascans, and this fact may well have been due to the double salmon run.

Merriam's estimate of the position of the Hupa, given below, is taken verbatim from his notes.

_The Tin´-nung-hen-n[=a]´-o or Hoopah._--The Hoopah proper, who call themselves not Hoopah but Tin´-nung-hen-n[=a]´-o, occupy the lower part of Trinity River and tributary streams from the mouth of South Fork Trinity northerly to Bull Creek--a distance of about 20 miles. On the west they extend to the summit of the long high mountain range known as The Bald Hills (altitude 4,000 ft.), which separates their territory from that of the Redwood Creek tribe, the 'Hwilkut [Chilula]. On the east they reach to the lofty mountain ridge culminating in Trinity Summit (altitude 6,500 ft.), the northern part of which separates the drainage area of Mill Creek from that of Redcap Creek; the southern part, the waters of Horse-Linto and Cedar creeks from those of the westerly branches of New River.

Their territory, therefore, is difficult of access, being protected in all directions by ranges of mountains or deep canyons, while its western border is about 20 miles from the coast, easterly from Trinidad. The entire region, except the beautiful Hoopa Valley, 6 miles in length and a mile or two in breadth, where most of the villages are located, is mountainous and most of it densely forested. There are one or two small open stretches on other parts of Trinity River, and a few grassy slopes on some of the ridges; elsewhere the forest is continuous.

The Tin´-nung-hen-n[=a]´-o are in contact with five tribes belonging to three linguistic stocks, namely: the Po-lik´-lah (often called "Yurok") on the north; the Kar´ok on the northeast; the Athapaskan E´-tahk-n[)a]-lin´-n[)a]-kah on the east [I have not been able to identify this group. According to Merriam's map and according to his own testimony (Merriam, 1930) the Hupa are bordered on the east by the Shastan Tlo-hom-tah-hoi; the Athapaskan Ts´[)a]-nung-wh[)a] [Southern Hupa] on the south, and the Athapaskan 'Hwilkut [Chilula] on the west.]

_The Ts´[)a]-nung-wh[)a]._--(An Athapaskan tribe closely related to the Hoopah.) The territory of the Ts´[)a]-nung-wh[)a] lies directly south of the Tin´-nung-hen-n[=a]´-o or Hoopah proper, embracing the drainage basin of South Fork Trinity River from Grouse Creek to the junction of South Fork with the main Trinity, and including also the rather narrow strip between South Fork on the west and the main Trinity on the east as far up as Cedar Flat. At the mouth of South Fork they crossed the main Trinity and claimed a narrow strip two or three miles in length on the north side of the canyon where two of their villages were located, Ti´-koo-et-sil´-lah-kut on the high bench opposite the mouth of South Fork, and Me´-m[)e]h, on the site of the present Fountain Ranch about 1-1/2 miles east of the other. Their western boundary was the divide between the tributaries of South Fork Trinity and those of Redwood Creek (a little west of the courses of Madden Creek and Mosquito Creek). The eastern boundary was the deep canyon of Trinity River from the mouth of South Fork to Cedar Flat; the southern boundary, Grouse Creek and a line running from its mouth northeasterly and following Mill Creek to the main Trinity at Cedar Flat--thus including the Burnt Ranch country.

The land of the Ts´[)a]-nung-wh[)a] is mountainous and forested, and the principal streams flow in deep canyons. It is roughly circular in outline, and of small extent, measuring in an air line hardly 15 miles in either direction--north-south or east-west. Nevertheless it seems to have been rather well populated for there were at least a dozen villages--all situated on high benches overlooking the canyons.

Their language differs only slightly from that of the Hoopah.

The Tsa-nung-wha were in contact with four tribes: the Tin´-nung-hen-n[=a]´-o or Hoopah on the north, E´-tahk-n[)a]-lin´-n[)a]-kah [Tlo-hom-tah-hoi] and Che-ma-re´-ko [Chimariko] on the northeast, the Che-ma-re´-ko on the east and south, the 'Hwi´l-kut [Chilula] on the west.

The following account of Merriam's first visit to the Hoopa Indian Reservation is taken from his California Journal, Vol. 2, September 5, 1898.

The present Hoopa Valley Indian Reservation Agency is built around a hollow square, formerly old Fort Gaston. In order to reach the agency we had to ford Trinity River, here more than a hundred feet broad, the agency being on the west or coast side. Purchased a number of sahah baskets.

The night before coming down into Hoopah Valley we camped on Trinity Mountain where we found a colony of _Aplodontia_ [Mountain beaver], the Hoopah name of which is Nea't-saas.

The range west of Hoopah Valley between Supply Creek canyon and Redwood Creek is 3,400 feet in altitude; in other words, 3,000 feet above Hoopah Valley. This range is covered with a rather dense forest mainly of Douglas Fir, more or less mixed on the warmer slope with Ponderosa and Sugar Pines and Black, White, and Live Oaks, among which Madrones, Chinquapins, and Cedars occur.

On the slope east of Hoopah Valley the splendid _Rhododendron californicum_ occurs. Here also two species of _Cornus_, _nuttalli_ and the black-berried _sessilis_, were seen, and in a gulch nearby we found the rather rare Lawson Cypress. On this range at an altitude of 3,250 feet is a stone pile around a post said to mark the west boundary of Hoopah Reservation.

On this same range the coast Plume Fern is common and the ground over a considerable area is carpeted with delicate _Vancouveria hexandra_.

At Redwood Creek we saw the beautiful ringed tail of a _Bassariscus_, which animal is said to be common here.

The Redwood (_Sequoia sempervirens_) common along the coast pushes up Redwood River to a point about two miles below the Bair ranch. The man at the ranch, W. F. Boyce, told me that during the previous year he had trapped in the region 32 Black Bear, 21 Coyotes, numerous Wildcats, 3 Panthers, and one Badger, besides killing any number of deer. Other mammals said to occur here in addition to Deer are Gray Fox, Otter, Fisher, Marten, Mink, big and little Skunks (_Mephitis_ and _Spilogale_) in addition to the Ring-tail _Bassariscus_, here called kil-how'^{ch}.

One of the commonest trees in Redwood Valley is the Tan Oak (_Lithocarpus densiflora_), the bark of which is used for tanning. Madrones also are common, many of them four feet or more in diameter.

The rare Cypress (_Chamaecyparis lawsoniana_) also occurs here but Douglas Fir is not only the dominant tree but grows to large size, thousands of them reaching diameters of five to seven feet.

VILLAGES

Although the information on Hupa villages comes from extremely diverse sources, there appears to be fair agreement among them. The basic material comes from Goddard (1903), and this is for the most part confirmed by Merriam and Curtis (1924, Vol. 13). In fact, Curtis' data coincide so closely with Goddard's that they may have been derived from Goddard's report. However, a few of Curtis' facts do not appear in Goddard's work so we are probably justified in considering them primary.

Besides these sources, there is a list of village names by Powers (1877) and also a manuscript map prepared by Gibbs in 1852, reproduced here as pl. 9; the original is in the Bureau of American Ethnology. Although this map is not particularly accurate and although the village names are given in Yurok rather than in Hupa, it still has special value since the number of houses is given for each village and we therefore have a check on the data presented by Goddard.

In the following lists the sources are thus indicated: Merriam (M), Goddard (G), and Curtis, 1924, Vol. 13, (C).

_Natinuwhe Villages (map 17)_

1. hon-sah-tung (M). Former village on the E bank of the Trinity R. at the N end of Hoopa V.

xonsadiñ (G), "deep water place." Near the beginning of the canyon on the right bank at the N end of the valley.

honsading, "deep pool place" (C). On the E bank of the Trinity R. at the N end of Hoopa V.

Powers (1877) gives hun-sa-tung and Gibbs gives okenope, corresponding to oknutl, the Yurok name. Gibbs says there were 9 houses in the village while Goddard shows 11 houses.

2. dakisxankût (G). On the opposite side of the Trinity R. from xonsadiñ at the base of Bald Hill was a village, the site of which is now entirely grown up to trees and brush. Goddard shows 7 houses here.

takyishankut (C). On the W bank, opposite honsading.

3. kin-choo-whu-kut (M). On the E side of the Trinity near the N end of Hoopa V. and just below the mouth of Mill Cr.

kintc[=u]whwikût, "on a nose" (G). This village occupies a point of land on the E bank just below the mouth of Mill Cr. Eight houses are shown at this village.

kinchuwhikut, "its nose upon" (C). On the E bank just below the mouth of Mill Cr.

The Yurok name for this village is merpernertl (Kroeber, 1925).

4. cha-en-ta-ko-ting, "flopped out" (M). Former village on the W bank of the Trinity R. a little above Socktish Cr.

tceindeqotdiñ, "place where he was dug up" (G). This village was a short distance below meskût. Its name refers to a well-known myth (see Goddard, 1904). Goddard shows 12 houses at this village.

cheindekhoting (C), "dug out place." On the W bank between miskut and the mouth of Socktish Cr.

Powers (1877) gives the name chan-ta-ko-da for this village and its Yurok name is said to be kererwer (Kroeber, 1925).

5. mis-kut (M). On the E side below Hostler Cr.

meskût (G). This village was on the E side of the river and about a mile below takimiLdiñ. It "shows signs of once having been occupied by many houses." Nine of them are shown.

miskut, "bluff upon" (C). On the E bank on a bluff midway between Mill Cr. and Hostler Cr.

Powers (1877) gives mis-kut as the name of this village and Gibbs gives eh-grertsh, corresponding to the Yurok ergerits, and says that there were 6 houses here.

6. tah-kah-mil-ting (M). The head village of the tribe, situated on the E bank of the Trinity a little above Hostler Cr. Contained a large ceremonial house.

takimiLdiñ, "place of the acorn feast" (G). A short distance below Tsewenaldin on the E bank. It is known as the Hostler Ranch. This is the religious center for the whole valley. Here there still stand the xonta nikyao, "house big," and the taikuw nakyao, "sweathouse big." These are said to have been built by the people of long ago and to have sheltered the first dwellers in the valley; but inasmuch as they were burned by a party of Yurok in the early part of the last century, the statement is to be interpreted as applying to the foundations only. At this village were held the acorn feast and two of the important dances, and it was the starting-point for the third (cf. Goldschmidt and Driver, 1940). Goddard shows 14 houses in this village.

takimilding, "cook-acorns place" (C). On the E bank a short distance above Hostler Cr. At the beginning of the acorn season the people of this village would gather a small quantity of nuts and prepare a feast of mush and salmon, which all the Hupa attended. The remnants of the feast were cast into the fire and the cooking stones were added to the accumulated heap of previous years. This is the present residence of the northern division of the Hupa, known as Hostler Ranch, and the ceremonial feast is still observed. A fishing weir was built in a long riffle near here.

Powers (1877) gives hos-ler as the name of this village and Gibbs gives ople-goh, corresponding to Yurok oplego (Kroeber, 1925), and says that there are 20 houses here.

7. tsa-wun-al-mit-tung (M). Former village on the E side of the Trinity in the middle of the valley.

tseweñaldiñ (G). This was a large settlement on the E bank about a mile below toLtsasdin. It is translated by English tongues into Senalton. There are many traces of houses here, but the people were all killed or scattered in the troubled times of the 'sixties. Six houses are shown here.

tsewenalding, "rock inverted place" (C). This was on the E bank about 1/4 mi. above takimilding. The locality is now known as the Senalton Ranch.

Gibbs gives the name olle-potl for this village, corresponding to the Yurok olepotl (Kroeber, 1925) and says there were 10 houses.

_Tinuheneu Villages (map 17)_

8. tol-skots-a-tung (M). Former village on the W side of the Trinity S of the mouth of Supply Cr.

t[=o]Ltsasdiñ (G). There are evidences of this village on the left bank a little S of the mouth of Supply Cr. It has long been deserted. A prison camp was maintained near this site by the military.

toltsasding (C). At the N side of the mouth of Supply Cr. It was inhabited until about the time of the military occupancy.

The Yurok name for this village is erlern (Kroeber, 1925).

9. ma-til-le-tung (M). In the upper part of Hoopa V. on the E side of the Trinity, 2 mi. from the S end of the valley. It was the largest village but not the head village, tah-ka-mil-ting being the head town, ma-til-le-tung was the big boat ranch of the Hupa and was named for ma-til, dugout canoe.

medildiñ, "place of boats" (G). Just below xowûñkût the river swings back to the W, meets a spur of the mountain, and then swings back to the E, forming a peninsula. Here, cut off from the rest of the valley, is medildiñ (Matilton Ranch). This village, with those to the S, forms the southern division of the Hupa people. This division manifests itself especially in religious matters.

medilding, "canoe place" (C). On the E bank of the Trinity R. about midway between Supply Cr. and Campbell Cr. It is the present settlement of the southern division and is known as the Matilton Ranch. The southern division fish weir is built in the river near here.

mi-til-ti is the name attributed to this village by Powers (1877) and Gibbs gives the name kahtetl, which is its Yurok name (Kroeber, 1925). Gibbs says it had 28 houses whereas Goddard shows 22.

10. ho-wung-kut (M). A village of the southern division, S of ma-til-le-tung and 1 mi. from the S end of the valley on the W bank of the river.

xowûñkût (G). About a mile downstream from Tish-Tang-A-Tang Cr. on the W bank of the river. Goddard shows 14 houses at this village. The site is now called Kentuck Ranch.

howungkut (C). On the W bank about 1 mi. below Campbell Cr.

This place is locally known as Kentuck Ranch. This appears to be the village called wang-kat by Powers (1877). Its Yurok name is pia'getl (Kroeber, 1925).

11. tish-tahng-ah-tung (M). On the E bank of the Trinity R. at the S end of Hoopa V. proper.

djictañadiñ (G). At the S end of the valley where the river emerges from the canyon is a point of land on the E side. This village, known locally as tish-tang-a-tang, was situated on this point. Just above this village Tish-Tang-A-Tang Cr. from the mountains on the E empties into the Trinity.

djishtangading, "promontory place" (C). On the E bank opposite Campbell Cr.

Powers (1877) calls this village Tish-tan-a-tan. According to Merriam's notes the Yurok name for it is Peht-sau-an and this is the name Gibbs uses for it. Gibbs says there are 9 houses here, whereas Goddard shows 13.

12. 'has-lin-ting (M). On the E bank of lower Trinity R. 3 mi. above Hoopa V. proper. This is the uppermost village classed as Hupa.

xaslindiñ (G). About 3 mi. S of the valley proper on the E bank of the river at the mouth of a creek of the same name (Horse Linto Cr.). Nine houses are shown at this village.

haslinding, "waterfall place" (C). On the E bank about 3 mi. above djishtangading and the same distance beyond the limits of the valley. The name is preserved in Horse Linto Cr.

Powers (1877) calls this village hass-lin-tung. According to Kroeber (1925, p. 129), the Yurok name for this village is yati but Waterman (1920, p. 188) gives wo'xtoi. This last would correspond to Gibbs's wauch-ta, which is shown with an approximately correct location except that it is on the wrong side of the river. This village is said to have had six houses.

13. seh-ach-pe-ya (Gibbs' map, pl. 9). This is no doubt a Yurok name, as are all those given by Gibbs, but no one else has recorded it. There are said to have been four houses here.

14. wang-ulle-watl (Gibbs' map, pl. 9). Again this is probably a Yurok name. There are said to have been three houses.

15. wang-ulle-wutle-kauh (Gibbs' map, pl. 9). This is probably a Yurok name. There is said to have been one house here. Kauh is a Yurok suffix meaning "opposite."

Gibbs also gives a town called weitspek on the W side of the Trinity just below the mouth of South Fork. There are said to have been three houses here. Merriam asked about this village and its existence was denied by his informants.

_South Fork Hupa Villages (maps 16, 17)_

16. hlah-tung (M). On both sides of the mouth of South Fork Trinity on high bench ground.

17. til-tswetch-a-ki (M). On the W side of South Fork at the mouth of Madden Cr. An old important town. About a mile below chil^{ch}-tal-tung.

18. chil^{ch}-tal-tung (M). On the E side of South Fork 1-1/2 mi. above its mouth.

19. os-tahn-tung (M). On the E side of South Fork 2-1/2 mi. above its mouth.

20. 'hlit-choo^{ch}-tung (M). On the E side of South Fork 5 or 6 mi. above its mouth.

21. klo-kum-me (M). On the E side of South Fork about 8 mi. above its mouth (two above 'hlit-choo^{ch}-tung).

22. tah-choo^{ch}-tung (M). On the E side of South Fork about 10 or 12 mi. above its mouth.

23. ti-koo-et-sil-la-kut (M). On the N side of the main Trinity on a bench opposite the mouth of South Fork, about 1-1/2 mi. below Fountain Ranch.

24. me-meh; me-a-meh (M). On the N side of the main Trinity on the site of the present Fountain Ranch about 1-1/2 mi. above the mouth of South Fork but on the opposite side of the river.

25. hoi-ti sah-ahn-me (M). At Hennessy Ranch, Burnt Ranch (Post Office in 1921).

26. e-nuk-kut-te-nan-tung (M). At McDonnell Ranch, Burnt Ranch. Name means "south slope place."

27. tin-noo^{ch}-tung (M). At Cedar Flat. Easternmost village of the tribe, near or adjoining the territory of the Chimariko.

ETHNOGRAPHIC NOTES

The following ethnographic data are taken verbatim from Merriam's notes.

According to the Hoopah, as told me by James Chesbro of Burnt Ranch, the First People are called Kit-tung´-whi or Devil People. They used to fight and kill and eat one another. Later they turned into animals. After the Flood real (Indian) people came.

In early days the Indians used to get drunk from inhaling the fumes of Indian tobacco (Min´-t[=a] itch´-wah) which by deep breathing they would take into the lungs. Their word for drunk is Ho-n[=a]^{ch}-w[)i]h^{ch}. The expression for "many people drunk" is Yah, ho-n[=a]^{ch}-w[)e]^{ch}.

The word for an old person is Kis´-te-ahn; for an old object, Tah´-ne.