Chapter 1

Brittany & Its Byways

by Fanny Bury Palliser

Edition 02 , (November 9, 2007)

BRITTANY & ITS BYWAYS

SOME ACCOUNT OF ITS INHABITANTS AND ITS ANTIQUITIES; DURING A RESIDENCE IN THAT COUNTRY.

BY MRS. BURY PALLISER

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS

London

1869

CONTENTS

Contents. List of Illustrations. Britanny and Its Byways. Some Useful Dates in the History of Brittany. Chronological Table of the Dukes of Brittany. Index. Transcribers’ Notes

CONTENTS.

CHERBOURG—Mont du Roule—Visit of Queen Victoria—Harbour, 1—Breakwater—Dock-Yard, 2—Chantereyne—Hôpital de la Marine, 3—Castle—Statue of Napoleon I.—Library—Church of La Trinité, 4—Environs—Octeville, 5—Lace-school of the Sœurs de la Providence, 11.

QUERQUEVILLE—Church of St. Germain, 5—Château of the Comte de Tocqueville, 6.

TOURLAVILLE—Château, 7—Crêpes, 11.

MARTINVAST—Château, 12.

BRICQUEBEC—Castle—History, 12—Valognes, 14.

ST. SAUVEUR-le-Vicomte—Demesne—History, 15—Castle—Convent—Abbey, 16.

PÉRIERS, 17—La Haye-du-Puits, 17—Abbey of Lessay—Mode of Washing—Inn-signs, 18—Church, 19.

COUTANCES—Cathedral—Churches, 19—Fête of St. Fiacre, 20.

GRANVILLE—Situation—History—Church, 21—View from the "Roc"—Bathing-machines—Defeat of the Vendean army—Death of La Rochejacquelin, 22—Costume of the Women—Environs—St. Pair, 23.

AVRANCHES—Extensive View—Scene of Absolution of Henry II.—Cemetery, 24.

PONTORSON—Story of the Lady Typhaine, 24—Government by Du Guesclin—Mont St. Michel, 25—Chapel of St. Aubert—Visits of English kings—Pilgrimages of Kings of France, 26—Convent of "La Merveille," 27—Isle of La Tombeleine—Prison, 28—The Iron Cage, 29.

DOL-DE-BRETAGNE—Street Architecture, 30—Cathedral, 31—Tomb of Bishop James—Chapel of St. Samson, 32—Monks, 33—Dyke, 34—Menhir, 35—Château of Combourg, 36—Chateaubriand, 37.

CANCALE—Oysters, 37—Wretched public vehicles, 38—Bay, 39.

ST. MALO—Situation, 39—Sea-wall, 40—Tomb of Chateaubriand—Memorials of him, 41—Watch-dogs, 42—Castle—History, 43—DINARD, 44.

DINAN—Ascent of the Rance—Statue of Du Guesclin, 44—Siege of 1359—Duel of Du Guesclin and Thomas of Cantorbéry, 45—Castle of Montfilant—Story of Gilles de Bretagne, 46—Lunatic Asylum—Castle of Dinan, 50—Church of St. Sauveur, 51—Museum, 52—Environs—Château of La Bellière, 54—Château of La Garaye—Count Claude de la Garaye and his Wife, 57—Jugon, 61—Castle of La Hunaudaye, 62—Legend of La Hunaudaye, 63—Forest of La Hunaudaye—The Chouan War, 66.

LAMBALLE—Jeanne la Boiteuse—War of Succession, 67—Temple of Lanleff, 68—Tradition of the blood-spots, 70.

ST. BRIEUC—Palais de Justice—Tour de Cesson, 71—Church of Notre Dame—Review of his army by James II. of England, 72.

GUINGAMP—Situation—Fishing in the Trieux—Sanctuary of Notre Dame du Bon Secours—"Frérie blanche," 72—Fountain of Duke Peter—Women of Guingamp—Knitting and spinning—Ransom for Du Guesclin, 74—Chapel of St. Leonard patron saint of prisoners—Curious charms against fever, 75.

PAIMPOL—Château de Boisgelin, 75—Abbey of Beauport, 76—Situation of Paimpol—Suspension-bridge of Lézardrieux, 80—Château of La Roche Jagu, 81.

PONTRIEUX—Castle of La Roche Derrien, 82—"War of the two Jeannes"—Church of Langoat—Monument of Ste. Pompée, 83—Burial customs—Excellence of roads in Brittany, 84.

KERMARTIN—St. Ives, 84—Inscription at his birthplace—Interior of a Breton dwelling, 86—Church of Minihy-Tréguier—Will of St. Ives, 87.

TRÉGUIER—Cathedral—Burial-place of St. Ives, 88—Constable Clisson, 89—Cemetery, 90—Skull-boxes, 91.

LANNION—Difficulty of the road, 91—Perros Guirec—Ploumanach—Roche Pendue, 92—Situation of Lannion—Fishery—Sea-weed gathering, 94—Castle of Touquédec, 95—Château of Kergrist, 96.

MORLAIX—Situation—Timbered houses, 97—History, 98—Breton characteristics, 99—Protestant Missions, 100—"Fontaine des Anglais," 102—River Scenery, 103.

ST. POL DE LÉON, 103—Religious Monuments—Character of the Léonnais, 104—Church of Notre Dame de Creizker—Legend of St. Génévroc, 105—Cathedral, 106—St. Pol and the Dragon, 109—Ursuline Convent—"Droit de Motte," 110.

ROSCOFF—Contraband trade with England—Vegetable produce, 111—Historic importance, 112—Church—Island of Batz—Enormous old fig-tree, 113.

ST. THÉGONNEC STATION—Cabaret—Church, 114—Guimiliau Church—Sculptures, 115—Calvary, 116—Buckwheat, 117—Castle and Church of La Roche Maurice, 118.

BREST—Situation, 118—Harbour, 119—Church of the Folgoët—Legend, 120—Kersanton stone, 122—Sculptures in Kersanton stone, 123—The Fool’s Well, 124—Exterior of Church, 125—Churchyard, 127—Monthly Fair of Brest—Peasants’ Costumes, 133.

FINISTÈRE—Abbey of St. Mathieu, 129—Sea-fights, 130—Pont Launay and Châteaulin, 134.

QUIMPER, 135—Legend of St. Corentin, 137—Cathedral, 139—National costume, 140.

CONCARNEAU, 142—Sardine Fishery, 143—Aquarium, 147—Dolmen and Rocking-stone of Trégunc—Château of Rustéphan, 149—Valley of Pontaven, 150.

QUIMPERLÉ—Fishing, 151—Buildings—Tomb of St. Gurloës, 152—Tomb of John de Montfort—Ruins of St. Columban, 153—Dirtiness of the Bretons—Animals and Farm produce—Butter Indulgence, 154.

LORIENT—Bisson and the Pirates, 155.

HENNEBONT—Heroic defence by Jeanne de Flandre, 156—Church of Notre Dame-de-Paradis, 157.

STE. ANNE D’AURAY, 158—Scala Sancta—Fête, 159—Chartreuse, 160—Battle, 161—Deaf and Dumb School, 164—Massacre of Quiberon, 165—Champ des Martyrs, 168—Celtic Remains, 169.

LOCMARIAKER—Tumulus—Celtic and other Remains, 170—Tumulus of Gavr’ Inis, 175.

CARNAC—Celtic Remains—Menhirs of Kermario, 177—Legend of St. Cornély, 178—Jade Celts, &c., at Plouharnel, 180—Dolmen of Concorro, 181.

VANNES—History—Promenade, 183—Cathedral, 184—Château Gaillau—Tour du Connétable, 185—Model Village of Korner-hoët, 187—Peninsula of Rhuys, 188—Fortress of Sucinio, 189—Abbey of St. Gildas, 192—Abelard and the Breton Monks, 193—The Breton "Blue Beard," 194—Butte d’Arzon—Castle of Elven, 199—Growth of Chestnuts, 203.

PLOËRMEL, 203—Church, 204—Tombs, 205—Column of the Thirty, 206—Battle of the Thirty, 207—Château of Josselin, 209—Church of Josselin, 213.

MONTFORT-SUR-MER—Forest of Paimpont—Fairy tales, 215.

RENNES, ancient capital of Brittany—Entry of Henry IV.—Scenery of the Loire, 216—Castle of Champtoceaux, 218.

NANTES—Cathedral, 221—Tombs, 222—Castle—Anne of Brittany, 223—Promenades and Boulevards—Museum, 227—Jardin des Plantes—Descent of the Loire—The Noyades, 228.

ST. NAZAIRE—Historical associations, 230—Le Croisic, 232—Salt-pans, 233—Costume of the Paludiers, 234—Saulniers—Chouan: origin of the name and of the War, 241—Church of Batz, 243—Situation of Le Croisic, 244—Chapel of St. Goustan, 245.

GUÉRANDE—Church of St Aubin—Chapel of Notre Dame Blanche, 246—La Roche Bernard, 247—Wedding Festivities, 248—National Music—Female Costume—Fête de la Vierge and of the Emperor, 249—Scenery of the River Loch, 250.

BELLE ISLE—Le Palais—M. Trochu’s Model Farm, 251—Breton fatalism, 252—Grotte du Port Coton, 255—Historical associations of Belle Isle, 256—Fishery, 257.

PONT L’ABBÉ, 257—Costumes, 258—Church, 259.

LOCTUDY—Romanesque Church, 261.

TORCHE DE PENMARCH, 262—Church of St. Guenolé, 263—"Le filet saint"—Ruins of the old Town, 264—Fontenelle the Leaguer, 267—Church of St. Nonna, 268—Menhirs at Kerscaven, 269.

AUDIERNE—Lighthouse—Bathing-machines, 269—Town, 270.

POINTE DU RAZ—Popular superstitions—Church of St. Collédoc, 271—"Enfer de Plogoff"—Island of Sein—Druidesses, 272—Dangerous passage, 273—Baie des Trépassés—Submerged city of Is, 274—Legend of King Gradlon and his daughter Dahut, 275.

DOUARNENEZ—Romanesque Church of Pointcroix, 276—Chapel of Notre Dame de Comfort—Wheel of Sacring-Bells—Town of Douarnenez, 279—Pardon of Ste. Anne-de-la-Palue, 280—Costume, 281—Church of Ste. Anne—Procession, 282—Holy Well of Ste. Anne, 285.

SCAËR—Old Customs and Superstitions, 285—Wrestling—"Pierres de Croix," 286.

LE FAOUÉT—Chapel of St. Barbe, 287—Wedding ceremonies and amusements, 288—Fishing, 289—Old Breton superstitious still prevalent—Lavandières de la Nuit, 290—Church of St. Fiacre—Elaborately carved Rood-screen, 293—Painted glass—Ruined Castle of Poncallec—Plot of Cellamare, 294—Montagnes Noires, 296.

CARHAIX—Situation, 297—Statue of La Tour d’Auvergne, 298—Fair and Market—Church of St. Tremeur—Skull-boxes, 299.

HUELGOAT, 300—Lead-mines, 301—Cascade of St. Herbot—Chapel of St. Herbot, 303—His tomb, 304—Patron of cattle—Offerings of horsehair and cows’ tails, 304—Homeward journey, 307.

USEFUL DATES in the History of Brittany 309

CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE of the Dukes of Brittany 310

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VIGNETTE—St. Michael’s Mount, Title-page. 1. Querqueville Church, 6 2. Plan of Querqueville Church, 6 3. Château of Tourlaville, 9 4. Castle of Bricquebec, 13 5. Badge of the Sœurs de la Miséricorde, 17 6. Coutances Cathedral, 20 7. Pilaster and Cornice from Tomb of Bp. James in Cathedral of Dol, 31 8. Front of the Tomb, 32 9. Menhir, near Dol, 35 10. Château of Combourg, 37 11. Peasant Girl of Cancale, 38 12. St. Malo and Chateaubriand’s Tomb, 40 13. Effigy of Jean de Beaumanoir, 52 14. Château of La Bellière, 54 15. Chimney, Château of La Bellière, 56 16. Château of La Garaye, 60 17. Section of Lanleff Church, 69 18. Plan of Lanleff Church, 70 19. Fountain of Duke Peter, 73 20. Abbey of Beauport, 77 21. Skull-box, 91 22. The Creizker, 107 23. Calvary, Guimiliau, 116 24. The Fool’s Well, Folgoët, 124 25. Abbey of St. Mathieu, 131 26. Peasant Girl of Ouëssant, 133 27. Peasant Girl, Châteaulin, 135 28. Begger, Quimper, 141 29. Concarneau, with Sardine Boats, 143 30. Dolmen, Trégunc, 146 31. Rocking-Stone, Trégunc, 148 32. Château of Rustéphan, 150 33. Scala Sancta, Ste. Anne d’Auray, 159 34. Champ des Martyrs, Auray, 169 35. Sculptured Stone, Locmariaker, 171 36. Hatchet-shaped Sculpture, Locmariaker, 173 37. Entrance to Tumulus of Gavr’ Inis, 175 38, 39. Sculptured Stones, Gavr’ Inis, 176 40. Dolmen of Corcorro, 182 41. Castle of Elven, 200 42. Column of the Thirty, 206 43. Château of Josselin, 212 44. Salt-Pans, with Le Croisic in the distance, 235 45. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his working dress, 237 46. Paludier of the Bourg de Bate in his wedding dress, 239 47. La Roche Bernard, 247 48. Entrance to Le Palais, Belle Isle, 253 49. Device of Fouquet, 257 50. Peasant Girl, Pont l’Abbé, 258 51. Apse of the Church, Loctudy, 260 52. Torche of Penmarch, 262 53. Ship sculptured on the walls, Church of St. Guenolé, Penmarch, 264 54. Church of Guenolé, Penmarch, 265 55. Fleur-de-lisé Window, Church of St. Nonna, Penmarch, 269 56. Pointe du Raz, 270 57. Front of the Church at Pont Croix, 277 58. Wheel of Sacring Bells, Notre Dame-de-Comfort, near Douarnenez, 279 59. Costume of a Finistère Bride, 281 60. Well of Ste. Anne-la-Palue, 284 61. Cross Stones, 286 62. Rood-screen or Jubé, St. Fiacre, 291 63. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, 304 64. Carved Stalls, St. Herbot, 305

BRITANNY AND ITS BYWAYS.

A fair wind conveyed us in six hours from Poole to Cherbourg. It was dusk when we entered the harbour, and so we had no opportunity of seeing its beauty until the following morning, when we ascended a height behind the town, called the Mont du Roule. It is reached either on foot or by carriage, the Emperor having ordered a road to be made up to the fort which crowns the heights, on the occasion of the visit to Cherbourg, in 1858, of her Majesty Queen Victoria. Some 1500 men were immediately set to work, and, in a few days, an easy carriage-road was finished, up which the Emperor drove the Queen at his usual rapid pace. The view from the fort is lovely, commanding the whole line of the northern point of the Cotentin, from the low promontory of Cape de la Hogue to Barfleur. The water of the harbour, owing to its great depth, is of the most intense blue, which we quite agreed with the guardian of the fort in likening to that of the Bay of Naples. Across its entrance stretches, for two miles, the long line of the breakwater, and within were anchored the fleet of our yacht squadron, which the day before had run a race between Poole and Cherbourg. We took a boat to visit the breakwater. It is commanded at each end by a fort, with another in the centre, where the provisions are kept. In stormy weather the sea washes over the breakwater, and sometimes for days prevents all communication between the forts, and the supplies consequently are stopped. Boys offered us for sale the silvery shells of the Venus’ ear, which inhabits the rocks of the breakwater. We afterwards saw them in the fish-market exposed for sale, and, on expressing some curiosity as to how they were eaten, the landlord had a dish prepared for us. These fish resemble the scallop in taste, but are very tough, and require a great deal of beating with a wooden mallet to make them tender enough to eat. They are called "ormer," or "gofish." The table d’hôte was very plentifully supplied with fish, and here, as throughout Normandy and Brittany, cider, the customary beverage of the country, was always placed upon the table. It varies very much in quality in different districts; that of Bayeux is most esteemed.

The next morning we set out for the dockyard. To obtain admission, it first requires a letter from the English Consul, who lives in a charming spot overlooking the sea, at the foot of the Montagne du Roule. Furnished with this, we repaired to the Préfet Maritime, who gave us an order to be presented at the dockyard gate, where it was countersigned, and a guide appointed to show us over the establishment. We made the tour round all the basins and workshops, and saw the canot impérial used by the Emperor on the visit of our Queen,—a most elegant boat, beautifully carved with marine subjects. The model of a Roman trireme, or galley, is in one of the basins, and in the little museum, or Salle des Modèles, are the two flagstones that covered the grave of Napoleon, and were deposited here by the Prince de Joinville, when he returned with the Emperor’s remains from St. Helena. The dockyard partly stands on a spot called Chantereyne. The Empress Matilda, fleeing from Stephen, was overtaken by a tempest when making for Cherbourg, and vowed, if her life were spared, to build a church. The ship was in jeopardy, but the pilot cheered her spirits, and, when gaining the port, exclaimed, "Chantes Reine! we are safe in harbour." The place where she landed has always retained the name; and here the Empress, in fulfilment of her vow, founded an abbey, which was destroyed in the Revolution. The habitations of the nuns is the present provisional Hôpital de la Marine; a new one, containing above a thousand beds, being in course of construction, and a modern church, called Eglise du Vœu, has been erected in another part of the town in place of that of the Empress Matilda.

Henry II. held his court in the castle with his empress-mother in great splendour; it had formerly been tenanted by Duke William of Normandy before his invasion of England, and, within its enclosure, he built a church also, in consequence of a vow made during a serious illness. There are few objects of interest in the town of Cherbourg. The women all wear the large Normandy cap. In the Place d’Armes is a bronze equestrian statue of the Emperor Napoleon I., and on the pedestal is inscribed "J’avois résolu de renouveler à Cherbourg les merveilles de l’Egypte." In the Library is a curiously sculptured chimney-piece of the fifteenth century, coloured and gilt, removed from a room of the abbey. The principal church, La Trinité, is a strange jumble of architecture. There is some beautiful tracery in the windows, and a fine boss (clef pendante) in the south porch, now restored. On a board in the church is an inscription, setting forth it was built in consequence of a "vœu solennel des habitans de Cherbourg en 1450 de la délivrance de la domination étrangère"—that is, from the English, whose defeat the same year at Formigny, by the Constable de Richemont, expelled them for ever from Normandy.

There is much to see in the environs of Cherbourg, which makes it a good central point for excursions. We drove by the fort of Octeville, where a magnificent panoramic view is obtained, equalling in extent that from the Mont du Roule. A fisherman, who was standing by, told us the names of the numerous forts that bristle in every direction, and related to us the legend of the monk of Saire, who, having received the rent due to his father for some land, appropriated the money to his own use, and, on the tenant declaring he had paid the sum, adjured the evil one to carry him off, if he had ever received the money. The words were no sooner uttered than there came a flash of lightning, and the monk vanished: but he still appears in the roads of Cherbourg floating on the sea; when he sees a sailor, he cries "Save me, save me! I am about to sink!" but the hapless being who approaches to assist him is immediately dragged into the water, a peal of infernal laughter is heard, and the luckless mariner disappears for ever. We asked our guide if he believed in the phantom monk, but he was silent.

From Octeville we proceeded to Querqueville, where, in the same churchyard as the parochial church, stands a little church, named after St. Germain, the first apostle of the Cotentin, who, in the fifth century, landed from England on the coast of La Hogue, and preached Christianity in this district and the valley traversed by the river Saire, which falls into the sea near St. Vaast-la-Hogue. This tiny church, for it measures only 34 feet by 24, and is 11 feet high, is by some supposed to have been a temple of the Gauls converted into a Christian place of worship; the nave and tower having been added to the old temple, which consists of a triple apse forming a regular trefoil, each of which has a domed top. We drove on to Nacqueville, the château of Comte Hippolyte de Tocqueville. The park is prettily laid out, a stream of water runs in front of the house, and a row of blue hydrangeas blazed forth in great beauty, with the relief of a background of dark firs. Time prevented us from pursuing our excursion further west, to see the famed cliffs of Jobourg.

To the east of Cherbourg a high road leads to Barfleur and the lighthouse of Gatteville, between which and the Isle of Wight is the narrowest point of the English Channel, passing by Saint-Pierre-Eglise, near which is the château of the late Alexis de Tocqueville, author of ’Democracy in America;’ but we did not get further on the road than Tourlaville, the ancient château of the Ravalet family, upon whom tradition has heaped every crime imaginable. One seigneur entered the church with his hounds and stabbed the priest at the altar, because he refused to administer to him the consecrated element; another hanged some of his vassals, because they did not grind their corn at the seignorial mill, for "haute or basse justice" was then among the nobles’ rights. Marguerite, a daughter of this ancient house, expiated, with her brother, their offences upon the scaffold at Paris. Every effort was made to spare their lives; but the King, or rather Queen Margot, was inexorable. The château of Tourlaville is beautifully situated; it is in the style of the Renaissance, with an angular tower, which recalls that of Heidelberg Castle. The ground-floor consists of two large unfurnished rooms, and a staircase, with iron railing, leads to the story above. In one room hangs the portrait of a lady châteleine, in the costume of the period of Louis XIII., with the château of Tourlaville in the distance. On her left are eight Cupids with bandages over their eyes, one in advance of the others is not blinded. From the lady’s mouth is a label, with the inscription "Un (seul) me suffit." This is said to be the portrait of the Lady Marguerite, but the costume is of a later date. In one of the rooms is a chimney-piece covered with a variety of amatory devices and mottoes:—a Cupid blinded, holding a lighted torch, motto "Ce qui me donne la vie me cause la mort." Again, another Cupid with eyes bandaged, pouring water out of a vase to cool a flaming heart he holds in his hand, motto "Sa froideur me glace les veines et son ardeur brûle mon cœur." Six winged hearts flying at the approach of Cupid, but which are reached by his darts, "Même en fuyant l’on est pris." Further is a sentiment in verse:—

“Plusieurs sont atteints de ce feu, Mais il ne s’en guérit que fort peu.”

Again,—

“Ces deux n’en font qu’un.”

A river in the foreground, in the distance a setting sun, motto "Ainsi puissai-je mourir." This assemblage of devices and mottoes is not applicable to any particular individual, but may be supposed to be merely an expression of the taste of the time. They are of the seventeenth century, when the Ravalet had been succeeded by the Franquetot family, who have since taken the name of Coigny. Their arms, with several others, are in the little boudoir in one of the towers, called the Blue Chamber. Its walls are distempered blue, and the coverlet and hangings of the bed, with all the decorations of the room, are of the same colour. Having admired the lovely view from the "Tour des quatre vents," we descended to the kitchen of the farmer who rents the house, which now belongs to the Tocqueville family. His wife was busily employed in making "crêpes," a favourite kind of cake in Normandy and Brittany. It is made generally of the flour of the sarrasin or buckwheat, mixed with milk or water, and spread into a kind of pancake, which is fried on an iron pan, resembling the Scotch griddle-cakes. Another variety, called "galette," is made of the same ingredients, but differs from the crêpe in its being made three or four times the thickness, and is therefore not so light. Though generally made of buckwheat, wheat or oat-flour is sometimes used; and in the towns, sugar and cinnamon and vanilla are added, and the simple character of the crêpe entirely changed under the hands of the confectioner. The little village of Tourlaville was famous for its glassworks, until supplanted by those of Gobain.

On our return to Cherbourg we visited the lace school of the Sœurs de la Providence, where about two hundred girls are employed in making black lace like that of Bayeux, which has now completely superseded the Chantilly; the manner of making both laces is similar. The old Chantilly has completely died out, and the modern manufacture extends the whole length of Normandy from Cherbourg to Bayeux. How the children can keep the bobbins from entangling is a marvel; there were as many as five hundred on one pillow. The lace-makers were chiefly employed in flounces, shawls, and other large works. These are all made in separate pieces, and united by the stitch called fine joining or "raboutissage." A half-shawl or "pointe" was divided into thirty segments. We passed the evening at the Etablissement, and next morning left Cherbourg.

The railway traverses the picturesque and rocky valley of Quincampoix to Martinvast, whose little Romanesque church stands close to the station, and at a short distance is the château of Martinvast, where its late proprietor, M. du Moncel, established a model farm. A monument has been erected to his memory in the church by the commune of Martinvast.