Part 3

Goodness, kindness, as well as a cloistral spirituality stream from their faces. One incident may be noticed to show of what stuff their charity consists. After the wreck of the _Drummond Castle_ when the bodies were washed up on the Ile-Molène, the women readily gave up their holiday costumes--costumes which it takes a girl twenty years of economies to acquire--and in these they clothed and buried the dead women washed ashore.

The Pardons in the Bigauden district are the most showy. The Bigaudens delight in bright colours, but they are not a religious or a moral people, and they do not exhibit the fervent and deep-seated piety of the genuine Bretons. The Bigaudens occupy the promontory of Sizun and Pont l'Abbé. This people, peculiar in appearance and distinct in character from the Bretons, are supposed to belong to the primitive population of Ivernians before the coming of the British colonists. They are looked on with mistrust, if not aversion by the Bretons, whom they can generally over-reach in a bargain.

VI. ICONOGRAPHY

It may interest some travellers to be able to identify some of the more common Saints of Brittany whose statues are to be found in the churches, chapels, and over the Holy Wells. A few of the Roman Saints are added who are thrusting the native ones from their niches.

Ste. Anne, with the B.V.M. at her side, sometimes with her on one arm and Christ on the other.

S. Armel, in a brown habit, with a cap on his head, an amice over the right shoulder, with a dragon whom he holds by a stole.

Ste. Aude or Haude, as a damsel carrying her head.

S. Bieuzy, as a monk with his head cleft.

S. Brioc, as a bishop with a wolf licking his feet.

S. Budoc, as a bishop with a barrel at his side.

S. Cadoc, as an abbot holding a bell.

S. Corentin, as a bishop carrying a fish.

S. David, as an archbishop with archiepiscopal crozier.

S. Edern, as a monk riding on a stag.

S. Efflam, in ducal habit, with sceptre, treading on a dragon.

S. Fiacre, in brown habit, holding a spade.

S. Fingar, Eguinger, or Guingar, as a prince, with sword and palm branch.

S. Gildas, in monastic habit, with a snarling dog at his feet.

S. Gwen Teirbron, seated, with crown, and three breasts, her children on her knees or at her feet.

S. Gwénole (Winwaloe), as an abbot, no special symbol.

S. Haude, a damsel carrying her head.

S. Herbot, as an anchorite with an ox at his feet.

S. Hervé, as a blind monk, a boy or a wolf at his side.

S. Meliau, as a king or duke, bearing sword and palm branch, or sceptre.

S. Melor, a boy with one hand and one foot cut off.

Ste. Ninnoc, in robes as a nun, a stag at her feet.

Ste. Noyala, as a princess holding her head in her hands.

S. Paul of Léon, in episcopal habits, treading on a dragon, and with a bell in his hands.

S. Samson, as archbishop.

S. Solomon, in royal robes, and with a dagger in his breast.

S. Thégonnec, as a bishop with a cart drawn by wolves.

S. Theilo, as an abbot or bishop riding on a stag.

S. Tujean, as a bishop with a mad dog at his side.

S. Vincent Ferrier, in monastic habit, holding a trumpet, and with wings.

S. Yves, in a white robe with long sleeves and doctor's bonnet, giving judgment sometimes between a rich suitor and a poor man.

S. Anthony of Padua, as a Franciscan, with the Child Jesus on one arm.

S. Barbara, with a tower at her side.

S. Cornelius, as Pope, with an ox at his feet.

S. Eligius, as bishop, with a horse at his side.

S. Isidore, dressed as a Breton peasant in bragoubraz (baggy breeches), holding a sickle.

S. Joseph, aged and holding a lily, sometimes with the Child Jesus on his arm.

S. Roch, as a pilgrim showing a wound in one leg.

VII. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS

In the humblest village one may reckon on obtaining good meals, but not always on having dry sheets. It is not customary to air the latter, and except in hot dry weather, it is well to be on one's guard in this matter. Water should never be drunk. Too frequently it is drawn from the well in the yard, and is contaminated. Coffee in out of the way parts, even at such headquarters as Carhaix, is not coffee at all, but roast lupin berries.[1] The ordinary charge for déjeuner at 11.30 is 2.50, with cider and coffee, and 3 francs for dinner at 7 p.m. But in second class inns is 50 centimes less. A bed is usually 1.50 or 2 francs. Sanitary arrangements are rudimentary. Usually one can rely on freedom from vermin, but it is well to be provided with a small bottle of oil of lavender, a preservative against bugs; but it will be needed exceptionally only. The commercial traveller is all pervading. He is sometimes interesting, occasionally objectionable, if a _farceur_ usually the latter. On entering a café or railway carriage, it is customary to raise the hat, so also in leaving. For Maps get those of the État Majeur, 57 Brest, 73 Châteaulin, 60 Dinan, 41 Lannion, 88 Lorient, 58 Morlaix, 117 Nantes, 40 Plouguerneau, 74 Pontivy, 87 Pont l'Abbé, 72 Quimper, 90 Redon, 75 Rennes, 59 S. Brieuc, 42 Tréguier, 89 Vannes, 102 Belle Ile, 56 Ouessant. Of these each has 4 sheets, N.W., N.E., S.W., S.E., except these--102 Belle Ile has a single sheet, S.E., Lannion has only N.E., S.W., S.E., 56 Ouessant has only N.E., 87 Pont l'Abbé only N.E., Tréguier only N.W., S.W., S.E.

[1] This is mixed with chicory, and is very liable to upset the stomach.

Each sheet costs about 25 centimes or 2½d. The same can be had in colours at 1 franc per sheet, but there is no great advantage in these latter.

In this book routes have not been given, as there is such a diversity of manner of travelling in these days, some going by train, and some by bicycle and motor car. For the latter the best map is that published by the cycling club, as it gives the roads that are suitable, and the hills are all indicated. The line adopted in this book has been to give the chefs-lieux d'arrondissement, and a few other places that are suitable as centres, and to indicate what is to be seen within an easy range all round.

Less details have been given relative to the Department of Ille-et-Vilaine, at least as to certain portions of it which do not offer much of interest to encourage a visit, and with regard to Loire Inférieure only the truly Breton region of Guérande and S. Nazaire has been included.

The following list of headquarters is recommended, whence excursions may be made radiating on all sides. Places of little moment and regions that need not occupy a visitor's time are omitted.

_Côtes-du-Nord._--DINAN. Thence Lamballe, Plancoet, Ploubalay, Dol, Jugon, Becherel.

GUINGAMP. Thence Belle-Ile, Pontrieux, Plouagat, Bourbriac.

LANNION. Thence Perros-Guirec, Plestin.

LOUDÉAC. Thence Uzel, Plouguenast, La Chèze, Mur.

PAIMPOL. Thence Lézardrieux, Pontrieux, Plouha and Iles de Bréhat.

PLOUARET. Thence Plestin, Begard and Belle-Ile.

ROSTRENEN. Thence S. Nicolas du Pélem, Maël Carhaix, Goarec.

S. BRIEUC. Thence Etables, Châtelaudren, Quintin, Lamballe.

TRÉGUIER. Thence Lézardrieux, La Roche-Derrien.

_Finistère._--AUDIERNE. The Cap Sizun.

BREST. Thence S. Rénan, Ploudalmezeau, Lannilis, Plabennec, and Ouessant.

CHÂTEAULIN. Thence Crozon, Le Faou, Pleyben.

CHÂTEAUNEUF-LE-FAOU. Thence Pleyben and Montagnes Noires.

HUELGOËT. The Montagnes d'Arrée.

LANDERNEAU. Thence Daoulas, Ploudiry, Sizun, and the Montagnes d'Arrée.

LANDIVISIAU. Thence S. Thégonnec, Plouzévédé, Ploudiry and Sizun.

LESNEVEN, the coast by Plounéour-trez.

MORLAIX. Thence Lanmeur, Taulé, Plouigneau, S. Thégonnec.

PONT-AVEN. Concarneau, Fouesnant.

PONT L'ABBÉ, the Penmarch peninsula.

PLOUDALMEZEAU, Lannilis, and the coast.

S. POL-DE-LÉON. Plouescat and the Ile-de-Batz.

QUIMPER may be made a centre for much, owing to several lines of railway diverging from it. Briec, Rosporden, Douarnenez, Pont Croix, Plougastel S. Germain, Pont l'Abbé.

QUIMPERLÉ. Thence Bannalec, Pont-aven, Pont Scorff.

_Morbihan._--AURAY. Thence Pluvigner, Belz, Carnac, Quiberon.

BAUD. Thence Pluvigner, Locminé and the Blavet River.

GRAND-CHAMP. Thence the Landes de Lanvaux, and S. Jean de Brévelez.

HENNEBONT. Thence Pont Scorff, Plonay, Lorient, Port Louis.

LA FAOUËT. Thence Gourin and Guéméné.

PLOERMEL. Thence Josselin, Mauron, Guer, La Trinité-Porhoet.

PONTIVY. Thence Cleguerec, Guéméné, the Blavet valley, Mur, Rohan.

ROCHEFORT-EN-TERRE. Thence Elven, and the Lande de Lanvaux, Malestroit, la Gacelly, Questembert.

VANNES. The Morbihan, and Sarzeau, Elven and Grand Champ.

_Ille-et-Vilaine._--BECHEREL. Thence Tinténiac, Hédé.

DINARD. Thence S. Malo, Cancale, S. Servan, Châteauneuf, Dol.

DOL. Thence Combourg.

FOUGÈRES. Thence Louvigné, S. Briac-en-Congles, S. Aubin-du-Cormier.

MONTFORT. Thence S. Méen and Montauban.

REDON. Thence Allaire, la Gacilly, Pipriac, Fougeray, S. Nicolas.

RENNES. Thence Mordelles, Guichen, Château-Giron, Janzé.

VITRÉ Thence Châteaubourg and Argentré-du-Plessis.

_Loire Inférieure._-GUÉRANDE. La Grande Brière and the Saltmarshes.

LE CROISIC. Sea coast and Saltmarshes.

S. NAZAIRE, mouth of the Loire.

_Contractions_

Arr. = Arrondissement. C.N. = Côtes-du-Nord (Department). Chl. = Chef-lieu. Com. = Commune. F. = Finistère (Department). I.V. = Ille-et-Vilaine (Department). L.I. = Loire Inférieure (Department). M. = Morbihan (Department). N.D. = Notre Dame. P. = Pardon. * = A convenient staying place whence to make excursions, and where are tolerable inns.

_Cheflieux and Surroundings_

ARGENTRÉ (I.V.) chl. arr. Vitré. In the neighbourhood are many small lakes, forming one of the arms of the Vilaine, one of the sources of which is in the forest of Pertré. The château de _Plessis_ is of the 15th cent. and has been restored. In it is a portrait of Mme. de Sevigné by Mignard. The circular chapel is of the 17th cent.

At _Primel_ is a chapel of the 15th cent. A calvary is in the parish churchyard.

At _Etrelles_ the church is of the beginning of the 16th cent.

ARZANO (F.) chl. arr. Quimperlé. An uninteresting place, but some pretty scenery on the Ellé and Isole. The neighbourhood is best visited from Quimperlé.

* AUDIERNE (F.) a com. of Pontcroix. A large fishing village, at the mouth of a tidal creek, into which flows the insignificant Goujen. The entrance to the harbour is dangerous. The river front of the village or town is occupied almost wholly by _buvettes_. Sardines are here tinned. The church, originally dedicated to S. Rumon, the same as S. Ronan, has been transferred to the patronage of S. Raymond Nonnatus. It is well-situated, and of renaissance period, but has preserved an earlier internal arcade. The south porch is of the usual 16th cent. type in Lower Brittany, but with renaissance details. Ships are carved over the church. The tower with gallery is mean. A curious recess with stoup outside the W. end, with broken circle above it. An old house in the street bears the date 1668. Audierne swarms with children who pester the visitor with begging. It is an unattractive place, but has good inns, and forms a centre for an interesting district. _See also_ Pont Croix.

At _Primelin_ is the Chapel of S. Tugean (a Saint Antianus) in a hamlet, surrounded with trees. It is a noble structure throughout, in the flamboyant style. A noble south porch with statues within of six apostles. The tower without spire is early flamboyant, and has a curious side turret with spire. The W. doorway is good with the four doctors of the church above it. The N. transept is double, divided by round pillars surmounted by Doric capitals. The carved wood roof of the chancel and N. transept deserve notice. Rich rococo altarpieces. Paintings (1705) about the baptistery. A good statue of S. Tugean represents him with a mad dog on one side and a boy kneeling on the other. The Saint is patron against hydrophobia. Outside the chapel is a cell into which were thrust those who had been bitten, and were not cured. They were communicated with the Host, thrust to them at the end of a stick, and there left to die. S. Tugean's key is preserved in the church. The P. on the last Sunday in June is very famous. Near the windmill is a small dolmen, or rather a kistvaen, the cover of which has been lifted and propped on small stones. This was used by lepers to lie in, expecting a cure.

_Plogoff_ has a church of the 16th cent., but possesses remains of an earlier period, pillars with Romanesque capitals. The Chapel of S. Collodec (Kenan, B. of Duleek) has a pretty spire, and a carved granite cross. P. 1st Sunday in July. The Pardon at the Chapel of N.D. de Bon Voyage is on the 3rd Sunday in July. The Enfer de Plogoff is a chasm into which the sea enters. The Pointe du Raz rises 240 feet above the sea, which is here rarely at rest. It commands a fine view of the stretch of coast from the Pointe to S. Mathieu on the north, and to Penmarch on the south. The _Ile de Seine_ lies nine miles away to sea, west of the Pointe du Raz, the passage is dangerous on account of the currents. It possesses little to attract a visitor, a couple of menhirs, called the Fistillerien or the Gossips, and a dolmen.

The _Baie des Trépassés_ takes its name from the number of dead bodies washed ashore in it after a wreck. A Byzantine writer speaks of this bay and tells a curious story about it. He says that here the boatman was called up at the dead of night to convey passengers to the Ile de Seine. He took his oars and launched his boat, and heard a sound as of people entering his barque, but saw no one. The boat settled deep in the water, and he rowed over with his invisible burden. On reaching the Isle of Seine, he could hear the passengers disembark, and coins were cast to him, but still those whom he had ferried over remained invisible. He had, in fact, conveyed the souls of the dead to the Isle of the Dead. And this strange occurrence took place repeatedly.

The _Etang de Laoual_ is supposed to cover the cursed city of Is, where Ahes, daughter of King Grallo, carried on high revelry and debauch. The wrath of heaven was kindled, and the sea overwhelmed the city. Remains of a Roman city remain at _Troguer_, and this was the termination of the Roman road from Carhaix (Vorganium). At the Chapel of S. They (the Cornish S. Day) the P. is on the 1st Sunday in July.

_Cleden-Cap-Sizun._ The coast here is bold, and there are numerous prehistoric monuments. At _Goulien_ is a menhir 18 ft. high, and there are remains of a Roman camp.

_Beuzec-Cap-Sizun._ The church (S. Budoc) has a fine 16th cent. tower. Near the hamlet of Kerbanalec is an allée couverte. The holy well of Ste. Azenora (the Cornish Sennara), mother of S. Budoc, is supposed to have the peculiarity of filling with milk the breasts of any man who drinks thereof. Mothers nursing their children frequent it. P. at N.D. de la Clarté on the Sunday after the 15th August.

* AURAY (M.) chl. arr. Lorient. On a height above the river of Auray and the harbour. The river is a tidal creek, very unsavoury when in flow or when left dry. A large export of pine logs takes place hence to Cardiff for the mines. There are several old houses in the town, especially by the bridge. The halles have a vast roof on bold timber work. The Church of S. Gildas was built in 1636, and is utterly Italian, except for the vaulting. The south entrance is not without merit. The Church of S. Goustan dates from the 16th century. In the chapel of the Pêre Eternel is rich carved stall work derived from the Chartreuse.

Within an easy stroll from Auray is the _Chapel de Ste. Avoye_. Here, according to legend, the Saint, who is the same as the Cornish S. Ewe, arrived in a stone boat from Britain. The chapel is surrounded by a few farmhouses and trees. It is a renaissance structure. The W. tower consists of only three sides, two bold buttresses carried up a great height, with a back, sustaining a pent-house roof, which in turn supports a spirelet of slate. The arrangement is probably unique. There was a porch below, but it has fallen. The tracery has been removed from the windows, and some good stained glass sold. Within is a fine but late screen with the twelve apostles on one side and cardinal virtues and other allegorical figures on the other. In the nave is a piece of the so-called "boat of S. Avoye," in which she is supposed to have come over. Actually it is, probably, a large grinder for corn polished within. On it are cut three symbols, one a cross, one like a T, and the third like I. Children that are delicate are placed in the "Boat" to recover strength. Over the altar is a painting representing S. Avoye in prison fed by the B. V. Mary. There are two Pardons, the principal on the 1st S. in May, the second on the 3rd S. in September. Outside the chapel are stone benches along the wall. In Breton the Saint is Santez Avé.

_Ste. Anne d'Auray_ is a great pilgrimage resort, with a pretentious modern church in nondescript style intended for renaissance, 1866-75, with bad glass. In 1623 a peasant dug up an image, probably of one of the Deæ Matres of Gallo-Roman times, so common in Brittany, at a place called Ker-anna. He jumped to the conclusion that it represented the mother of the B. Virgin. The Carmelites heard of it and resolved on making capital out of it; they ran it with great success and built a convent and church on the spot in 1645. The statue was destroyed in 1790, but the cult continues unabated. The Pardon is on the Sunday after July 26, and attracts vast crowds. In front of the church is a Santa Scala copied from that at Rome, and indulgenced with nine years for every step ascended by pilgrims on their knees. A large tank receives the miraculous spring of S. Anne, and is dominated by her statue. The pilgrims sing lustily the cantique of Ste. Anne d'Auray to this air:--

There is here a statue of the Duc de Chambord (1891) in bronze, flanked by those of Bayard, Du Guesclin, Ste. Geneviève, and Joan of Arc.

The _Chartreuse_ near the Auray railway station is now a deaf and dumb asylum. It occupies the site of the battle in which, in 1364, Jean de Monfort defeated and killed Charles de Blois. He founded the monastery, but only a small portion of the old structure remains. Here is the chapel, on the N. side of the church, in which rest the bodies of the royalists who had been landed from English transports at Quiberon, and whom Hoche and his republican soldiers shot down in cold blood to the number of 952 between 1st and 25th August 1795. The butchery took place not far from the Chartreuse, and the bodies were buried on the spot since called le Champ des Martyrs. In 1814 they were transferred to this chapel erected to contain them. It was completed in 1829. In the midst of the chapel is the mausoleum of white marble.

The chapelle expiatoire is situated at a quarter of an hour's walk from the Chartreuse and is in the Greek style, and is on the site of the massacre. Near by is a cross commemorative of Montfort's victory over Charles de Blois.

_Plougoumelin._ The parish church modern and bad. The Chapel of N.D. de Becquerel has a fine west porch of the Breton commingling of flamboyant and renaissance. An unfailing spring issues from under the wall of the apse. The water is thought to cure diseases of the mouth. Several lechs are in the parish. One called the Pierre du Serment is about 4 ft. 6 in. long, is in the churchyard and lies prostrate. Another is between the parsonage and the cemetery, and a third, round, with three hollows sunk in it, is at the presbytère. A tumulus by the river of Auray at Le Rocher covers an allée couverte. There are six others, smaller, in a line with it running from S.W. to N.E. They have yielded copper vessels and flint weapons, and belong to the intermediate age, before alloy was introduced for the formation of bronze.

_Crach._ Here in the commune are numerous prehistoric remains. Rather over a mile from Auray on the road to Crach is a fine dolmen, the coverer 22 ft. long, and having on it a circle of hollows. Other dolmens at Keryn, Kergleverit, and Parq-er-Gueren, near the Chapel of S. Jean. Several menhirs on the common. The Château de Plessisker is of the 17th cent. P. at Crach on the 1st S. in July. _See also_ Locmariaquer.

BAIN (I.V.) chl. arr. Redon, on the Route nationale from Rennes to Nantes. In the cemetery a cross of the 16th cent. Château de la Noé of the 15th cent. By a little lake are the remains of a castle converted into a farmhouse.

* BAUD (M.) chl. arr. Pontivy. A district in which much hemp is grown and cordwaining is carried on. The women wear coiffes like sunbonnets, and sabots with leather toe-pieces and straps neatly embroidered. The church, a mean structure of 1687, is about to be pulled down. It is dominated by the far more stately Chapel of N.D. de la Clarté of the 16th cent. Vaulted throughout with very peculiar straight groining and vaulting in the S. aisle. The chapel has an apse, the tracery has been removed from the windows and the old stained glass got rid of to make way for sad modern rubbish. The tower is later than the chapel and is unfinished. A huge ducal crown of Brittany is suspended in the apse. The crown is closed above, a right claimed by the dukes. P. 2nd July.

In the woods of the old château of Quinipili (guide advisable) is the rude granite statue of the famous Venus of Quinipili removed from Castannec on the Blavet. It is 6 ft. high, with the hands crossed over the breast and with a sort of stole hanging down in front, and a band about the head on which are cut IIT. The statue, which received idolatrous worship, was transferred in 1695 to Quinipili, by Count Pierre de Lannion, along with a huge granite basin that stood before it. He set it up on a pedestal in his grounds and cut a pseudo-classic inscription on the base. As the original statue was indecent, he set a sculptor to alter it, and probably the stole is due to this man's chisel.

_Camors._ There are two dolmens in the forest, and an allée couverte at Kerpenru. Of menhirs, one is on the lande of Penher, three at Kerguelen, a stone-row of twenty uprights at Kernoul. Seven menhirs in the wood at Floranges, and six in the forest of Camors. At Porhoet-er-Saleu, are the remains of the castle of Conmore, Count of Poher, and regent of Domnonia. He is regarded as the Bluebeard of Brittany, although he was actually only thrice married, to the sister of Jonas, King of Domnonia, to that of Meliau, King of Cornouaille, and lastly to Triphena, daughter of Weroch, Count of Vannes. This latter marriage was effected by the persuasion of S. Gildas. Conmore, however, so ill-treated his wife that she ran away to her father at Vannes. Gildas, who was at the time at Castannec, was furious with Conmore, and local legend asserts, that he came before this castle, gathered up a handful of earth, and casting it against the walls cursed it, that it should never again be inhabited. S. Triphena is invoked in the neighbourhood by women with troublesome husbands, and little wooden crosses may be found on the site of the castle set up by them in token that they have made a vow to S. Triphena to rid them of their annoyance. The church of Camors is dedicated to S. Senan, abbot of Iniscathy.

_Guénin._ The church is of 1773. The Chapel of N.D. de Menez-guen is flamboyant but late, 1577, with alterations made in 1604 and 1751. It is a cross church with a central tower. One descends by several steps into the chapel. Lean and lanky girls go to it and pray for fat to be laid on. P. 1st S. in July. Pilgrims take water from the fountain to give to their cattle.

_Questinic._ Chapel of S. Mathurin, P. 2nd S. in May. Chapel of Locmaria, renaissance 1574, a cross church with central tower and spire, and some old glass.