CHAPTER XVI

Free Distribution of Frémont's Reports—Latter Day Saints—Murder of a Prophet—Brigham Young Guides Saints to the Wilderness—The State of Deseret—California the Golden—Massacre at Mountain Meadows—Old Jacob, the Mormon Leatherstocking—Steam on the Lower Colorado—Old Jacob Finds the Crossing of the Fathers—Circumtouring the Grand Canyon—Solitudes of the Colorado—Last of the Wilderness Problems—Powell Solves it by Masterful Courage—The Iron Trail—The End and the Beginning 303

INDEX 339

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

THE SIERRA BLANCA _Frontispiece_

Blanca Peak, 14,390. Baldy Peak, 14,176. Blanca Peak is the third highest in Colorado.

The point of view is on Trinchera Creek looking north from an altitude of about 8000 feet. To the left is the San Luis Valley through which flows the Rio Grande, and to the right are the two high passes known as Veta and Sangre de Cristo. The Sierra Blanca forms the southern end of the Sangre de Cristo Range and was one of the great landmarks of the Wilderness.

Sketch in oils made at the place by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

THE BACKBONE OF THE CONTINENT 3 Photograph by R. H. Chapman, U. S. Geol. Survey.

WILDERNESS OF THE UPPER MISSOURI 5 Photograph by R. H. Chapman, U. S. Geol. Survey.

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY 7 Photograph by C. C. Pierce & Co.

THE GRIZZLY GIANT 9 Height, 285 feet. Circumference, 93 feet. Copyright by C. C. Pierce & Co.

A WILDERNESS HOME 11 Photograph by R. H. Chapman, U. S. Geol. Survey.

THE MOUNTAIN PART OF THE WILDERNESS 14 Relief map by E. E. Howell.

NO PLACE FOR BEAVER 15 Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

BEAVER COUNTRY 17 Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

GREAT BEAVER DAM—GRASS LAKE, 260 FEET LONG 19 From Morgan's _American Beaver_.

RED CANYON—GREEN RIVER 20 Where Ashley went for beaver in 1825. Photograph by E. O. Beaman, Colo. Riv. Exp.

BEAVER CANAL 22 From Morgan's _American Beaver_.

LOWER COLORADO RIVER—MOUTH OF GILA ON RIGHT 23 Where Pattie trapped beaver in 1826. Photograph by Delancy Gill.

TREES CUT BY BEAVERS 26 From Morgan's _American Beaver_.

BEAVER TRAP 29

THE BEAVER 30 Copyright, 1901, by Doubleday, Page, & Co.

THE MONARCH OF THE PLAINS 33 The figure a photograph by C. C. Pierce & Co.

PICTURE OF BUFFALO ON CLIFF WALL, SOUTHERN UTAH 37 Pecked drawing, copied by B. L. Young.

THE GRAND TETON FROM JACKSON'S HOLE 39 The buffalo reached this valley by 1824. Photograph by W. H. Jackson, U. S. Geol. Survey.

CANYON OF LODORE—GREEN RIVER 41 Canyons of this character are almost continuous from a few miles below the Union Pacific Railway crossing. Photograph by E. O. Beaman, U. S. Colo. Riv. Exp.

HEAD OF BISON BULL 43 Specimen shot by Theodore Roosevelt, Dec. 17, 1883. From Roosevelt's _Hunting Trips of a Ranchman_.

BUFFALO CHASE 45 After Catlin. From _Smithsonian Report_, 1888.

CHARACTER OF BUFFALO RANGE IN GREEN RIVER VALLEY 47 Photograph by E. O. Beaman, U. S., Colo. Riv. Exp.

CANYON OF DESOLATION—GREEN RIVER 50 A barrier to the buffalo's westward movement. Photograph by E. O. Beaman, U. S. Colo. Riv. Exp.

MANDAN BUFFALO DANCE 51 After Catlin From _Smithsonian Report_, 1885.

BUFFALO SWIMMING MISSOURI RIVER 52 After Catlin. From _Smithsonian Report_, 1885.

A VILLAGE OF THE PLAINS 55 This form of tipi was readily taken down and as readily set up again. Photograph by U. S. Government.

A PAI UTE FAMILY AT HOME 57 Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Colo. Riv. Exp.

A UTE MOUNTAIN HOME 58 Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

VILLAGE OF THE PUEBLOAN TYPE. VIEW IN THE MOKI TOWN OF MISHONGNAVI, ARIZONA 59 Photograph by U. S. Bu. Eth.

UMATILLA TIPI OF RUSH MATS ON COLUMBIA RIVER 61 From _Lewis and Clark_, by O. D. Wheeler.

AMERIND LINGUISTIC MAP 62 After Bu. of Eth. Seventh An. Rep.

A PUEBLOAN FARMHOUSE 64 Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

PLENTY-HORSES, A CHEYENNE 65 Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

A PAI UTE MODERNISED 67 Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

RUIN CALLED CASA GRANDE, ARIZONA 69 Photograph by Cosmos Mindeleff, U. S. Bu. of Eth.

SOUTH PORTION OF THE TEWA PUEBLO OF TAOS, NEW MEXICO 71 Photograph by U. S. Bu. of Eth.

NAVAJO SILVER BEADS—ACTUAL SIZE 72 From U. S. Bu. Eth.

SOUTH-WESTERN BASKETS—APACHE, PIMA, ETC. NAVAJO BLANKETS BEHIND 73 Photograph by J. B. Lippincott, U. S. Geol. Survey.

MOKI WOMAN MODELLING A CLAY JUG 76 Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

EARTHENWARE FROM MOKI REGION 77

THE RUINS IN CANYON DE CHELLY, ARIZONA, CALLED "CASA BLANCA." THESE WERE ONCE CONNECTED. 78 Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

OLD MANDAN HOUSE 79 From _Wonderland_, 1903, Northern Pacific Railway.

A YOUNG COCOPA 80 Photograph by Delancy Gill.

REAR VIEW OF MANDAN VILLAGE, SHOWING BURIAL-GROUND 81 Drawing by Catlin, plate 48, vol. i.; Catlin's _Eight Years_. Reproduction from _Smithsonian Report_, 1885,