Chapter 5

BREAKFASTS AT HIGH NOON.

A VERY SWELL REPAST FOR A SWAGGER SET.

By the operation of one of those laws of occult force, the power of which we feel while we are totally ignorant of its rules, we fix upon the noonday as the time for some of our chief social functions.

As a matter of fact we are at our best at this time of the day, both physically and mentally; and we naturally choose it for our special entertainments and enjoyments.

One of the chief of these is the noonday breakfast, which meets several social demands. It is the proper service for the return of nearly every obligation in the form of hospitality which may have been received by the giver during the closing season.

This noonday breakfast very much resembles the morning breakfast of the French country-house in the variety of foods. This repast always is most attractive to an American because of its informality, and the viands are enticing. This morning breakfast of the Parisian is really like a little dinner, and that is what we wish to serve to meet all the varied obligations that are to be wiped out by an artistic and choice return entertainment, whether it be called luncheon or noonday breakfast.

When a luncheon or noonday breakfast by formal invitation is given, the service is identical with that of dinner _a la Russe_, and the bill of fare similar, although less extended; but the pleasantest repasts are those where perfect service is secured without formality.

First, the table: Lay it as carefully as for dinner and in much the same way, save that an embroidered or delicately colored cloth may replace the white dinner linen; under this cloth lay the usual thick one of felt or Canton flannel. The small dessert and fruit, flowers and relishes, may form a part of the table decoration. Now that castors are seldom used, unless of fine old silver and ornamental form, place conveniently about the table salt, pepper, the oil and vinegar stand, and the table sauces in their original bottles set in silver holders. Olives, salted almonds, cheese-straws and sandwiches may be put upon the table in pretty china, silver and glass ornamental dishes; in short, all save the hot dishes may form part of the ornamentation. Hot plates are required for all the food except the raw shell-fish, salad and dessert, and should be ready for immediate use, together with a reserve of silver, or means for washing it. The coffee service may be laid before the hostess or upon the side table, at convenience; chocolate is similarly served, and is a favorite breakfast beverage, especially when it is made with eggs, after the Mexican method.

Tea is not on the regulation breakfast list, but of course it may be served if it is desired. Cider, malt liquors, the lighter wines, and in summer the various "cups" or fruit punches are in order; the breakfast wines are sherry, hock or Rhine wine, sauterne and champagne; and when a variety is served the preference of each guest is ascertained by the attendant before filling the glasses.

BREAKFAST MENU.

The following is an excellent bill of fare for a noonday breakfast:

_Little Neck Clams_ _Cold Wine Soup_ _Angels on Horseback_ _Chicken Patties_ _Newberg Lobster_ _Green Peas with New Turnips_ _Grape Fruit Sherbet_ _Broiled Birds with Orange Salad_ _White Custards_ _Cannelons with Jelly_ _Strawberries in Cream_ _Black Coffee_

For a simple repast for a few persons, two relishes may be omitted, only one _entree_ being served; then the sherbet, the birds, and one desert, with coffee; this combination would make a most acceptable small breakfast.

Blue Point Oysters, as all small oysters are called, may be used in their season, in place of the clams. Both are of much dietetic value, the clams being the most stimulating and nutritious, and the oysters the most tonic and digestible.

The cold wine soup is a valuable tonic nutrient; and each dish possesses some special value of its own.

COLD WINE SOUP.

Wash quarter of a pound of fine sago in cold water, put it over the fire in two quarts of cold water, and boil it gently until the grains are transparent; then dissolve with it half a pound of fine sugar, add a very little grated nutmeg, a dust of cayenne, and an even teaspoonful of salt; when the sugar is melted add a bottle of claret, and as much cold water as is required to make the soup of an agreeable creamy consistency; cool it before serving.

ANGELS ON HORSEBACK.

This is one of the gastronomic inspirations of Urbain Dubois, the _chef_ of the great Emperor of Germany. Remove all bits of shell from fine oysters and lay them upon a clean towel; cut as many slices of thin bacon, about the size of the oysters; run them alternately upon bright metal skewers, dust them with cayenne, lay the skewers between the bars of a double-wire grid-iron, and broil the "angels" over a quick fire until the bacon begins to crisp; then transfer the skewers to a hot dish garnished with lemon and parsley, or with cresses, and send at once to table. In serving, a skewerful of "angels" is laid upon a hot plate, and the eater removes them with a fork. The success of this dish depends upon the rapidity with which it is cooked and served.

CHICKEN PATTIES.

The housewife is advised to procure the cooked patty cases at the baker's shops, ready to be heated and filled with the following _ragout_. For a dozen patties remove the bones and skin from a pint bowlful of the white meat of cold boiled or roasted chicken, and cut it into one-half inch pieces. Open a can of mushrooms, save the liquor, and cut the mushrooms about the size of the chicken; put over the fire in a saucepan a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, stir them until they are smoothly blended; then gradually stir in the mushroom liquor and enough milk to make a sauce which should be as thick as cream after it has boiled; add the chicken and mushrooms, a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper; place the saucepan in a pan containing boiling salted water and keep hot until it is time to fill the hot patty cases and serve them.

GREEN PEAS WITH NEW TURNIPS.

Peal about a dozen new turnips of medium size, boil them until tender in salted boiling water; meanwhile smoothly mix in a saucepan a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and gradually stir in a pint of milk. Open a can of French peas, drain them, run cold water through them, draining again, and heat them in the sauce, seasoning them palatably with salt and white pepper. When the turnips are tender scoop a hollow in the center of each, fill it with peas, and arrange them upon the rest of the peas on a hot shallow dish.

TYPICAL BREAKFAST MENU.

Here is a typical breakfast menu: Grape fruit, plain or prepared by removing the center and putting in it a spoonful of rum and a lump of sugar; some cereal with cream or fruit; a chafing dish preparation, oysters in some way, mushrooms, or eggs, or a mixture on toast; hot bread of some kind, waffles, corn cakes, pancakes, flannel cakes, etc.; coffee and coffee cake.

BREAKFAST DECORATIONS.

The sunburst done in one color is a very popular design for summer hostesses. Suppose one is giving a pond lily breakfast. In the center of the table have a cut glass bowl of the lilies. From beneath the bowl radiate long streamers of pale green ribbon ending at the plates of the guests with name cards decorated with the lilies cut out of watercolor paper. Half way between the bowl and the plate, the ribbon is knotted about a bouquet of the flowers or a bunch of maidenhair ferns which will become the corsage bouquet of the guest. Sometimes several strands of narrower ribbon are used giving more rays; a very pretty effect. Do not have artificial light at a summer breakfast. Garden flowers are all the rage, either one kind or several kinds mixed. Coreopsis, mignonette, featherfew, nasturtiums, lilies, sweet peas, geraniums, all the simple garden flowers are used now in place of the hothouse products.

BREAKFAST TO BRIDE-ELECT.

TO A BRIDE.

Happy is the bride whom the sun shines on, And happy today are you; May all of the glad dreams you have dreamed In all of your life come true; May every good there is in life Step down from the years to you. There's nothing so sweet as a maid is sweet, On the day she becomes a bride; Oh, the paths that ope to the dancing feet! Oh, the true love by her side! Oh, the gray old world looks a glad old world, And it's fields of pleasure, wide.

A breakfast for a bride-elect can be made very dainty and pretty by following out a pink color scheme, unless one prefers the more common scheme of white. Cover the table with the prettiest, whitest damask, and over this lay lace-trimmed or openwork doilies, with a foundation of pink satin underneath. For flowers have pink begonias (very pretty and effective), carnations, roses, azaleas or cyclamens. Arrange the flowers in a center basket with a large pink butterfly bow on the handle. Light the table with pink candles and shades in silver or china candlesticks. Have the place cards in heart shapes with pen and ink sketches or watercolors of brides, or tiny cupids.

Mark the bride-elect's chair by a large bow of ribbon or a bouquet of pink flowers matching those on the table. If white flowers are used, lilies of the valley and hyacinths make a pretty bouquet, tied with white gauze ribbon.

Serve this menu:

_Grape Fruit with Rum and Cherries_ _Turkey Cutlets_ _Stuffed Peppers (Serve on Heart-Shaped Pieces of Bread)_ _Tiny Heart-Shaped Hot Rolls_ _Peach Mangoes_ _Sweetbread Salad in Tomato Cups on Lettuce Leaf_ _Cheese Straws_ _Ice Cream in Shape of Wedding Bells Filled with Candied Fruits_ _Cocoanut Cake and Angel Food in Heart Shape_ _Coffee_

A tiny bouquet of violets tied with gauze ribbon at each plate makes the table pretty and is a dainty souvenir for the guest. Sometimes the individual favors are tiny wicker hampers filled with fine flowers tied with white silk cord.

FOR THE BRIDE-ELECT.

A white breakfast is the daintiest and prettiest for the bride-elect. Have the table decorations in white. For the center have a large round basket of bride roses, and at each plate tiny French baskets filled with maidenhair fern and white pansies, or apple blossoms, for individual favors. Tie the handle of each basket with white gauze ribbon, looping the baskets together with the ribbon forming a garland for the table. Serve strawberries in large white tulips or bride roses, and have the ices in form of wedding bells. For name cards have two wedding bells tied with white satin ribbons.

SILVER WEDDING DAY BREAKFAST.

For the breakfast the table is crossed by a broad band of white carnations, sprinkled with diamond dust. Arranged in billows over the table is silver gauze, silver candelabra, and all the handsome silver, which the hostess possesses. The menu is:

_Bouillon_ _Lobster Cutlets_ _Tartar Sauce_ _Cucumber Sandwiches_ _Breast of Turkey, larded and broiled_ _Green Peas_ _Current Jelly_ _Hot Rolls_ _Pear and Celery Salad, with German Cherries served in Hearts of Lettuce_ _Caramel Ice Cream, with Pecan Meringue_ _Old Madeira is served with the meat course, then Sauterne_.

A FAMILY BREAKFAST.

_Grape Fruit with Cherries and Pineapple_ _Creamed Fish_ _New Potatoes with Sauce of Parsley and Drawn Butter_ _Sliced Cucumbers_ _Hot Biscuits_ _Fried Chicken_ _Asparagus on Toast_ _Sweetbreads_ _Waffles and Maple Syrup_ _Strawberry Shortcake, with Frozen Whipped Cream_ _Coffee_

LIGHT INFORMAL BREAKFAST.

First serve a fluffy egg omelet with Saratoga potatoes, and fish and cheese sandwiches cut in hearts and rings. Next cucumber boats filled with cucumber and tomato salad mixed with sour cream dressing, resting on lettuce leaves. With this an innovation in the shape of square ginger wafers. Place by each plate salted almonds and bread and butter on bread and butter plates. The last course is a popular New England combination, warm apple sauce and huckleberry muffins. Tea is the beverage.