Part 10

For the first twelve miles to Flores station the country presents a succession of quintas, or country houses, many large and picturesque, and Flores itself is quite a large and extensive town, though merely a suburb of Buenos Ayres. The town is called San Jose de Flores, and near it is a large Anglo-Argentine school, where the train stops. Flores station is a very good one, capable of being doubled, with a peculiar pattern of light ornamental roofing inside. In the summer season the traffic to and from Flores is very considerable, and there is also a large resident population. After leaving Flores, we got more into the open campo, with plenty of cattle, sheep, and horses about, and numerous farm buildings, until we reached Floreste station, close to which is a large fanciful looking building, originally intended, I believe, for a hotel, but it does not appear to have been successful as a speculation. San Martin is an important station, diligences and carriages being in attendance to convey people to the neighbouring villages of San Custo, Santa Lucia, and San Martin, one of which was called Rozas' Saladero, from the number of victims he is said to have sacrificed there at a prison established for his political enemies. Near this station are some fine, handsome quintas, belonging to the Madero family, the country being well wooded, with many farms, and the same features are observable as far as the Moron station, near which the battle of Caceres was fought, which decided the fate of Rozas. There is a theatre close to this station, and Moron is quite a large town, having grown up under the influence of the railway. A public road runs in proximity to the line for a distance of some fifteen miles, which is very objectionable, and the rails might just as well have been laid a few squares apart from it. After passing Moron we got more into the open campo, with large flocks of sheep, droves of cattle, and horses feeding all around, until we reached the ancient Spanish town of Merlo, which has a church, with a little steeple very like that of a village church at home. There is a nice looking two-storied house there, built by Mr. Boyd, planted with trees, showing they will grow well enough if people will take the trouble to plant them, and I understand Mr. Boyd was the first to introduce the gum tree, which now flourishes in many gardens in the neighbourhood. A branch line is shortly to be constructed from this place to Lobos, some forty miles south-west, through, I am told, a very rich part of the province, and from which district a large traffic is expected. A river, called Las Conchas, runs near Merlo, crossed by an iron bridge, the first I have seen on the line, there being only open culverts where the line crosses streams or watercourses. The next station we came to was Moreno, a new town built since the opening of the line. Midway between Moreno and Lujan is a small station called General Rodriguez. Lujan is one of the oldest towns in the province, a river of that name running past it to the Parana, joining the little stream of Tigre, the terminus of the Northern Railway, whence passenger steamers go up to Rosario. There is a large station and warehouse at Lujan, where a quantity of wheat was being loaded into carts, to be ground in a mill called the “Mill of the Virgins,” a name which I conclude arises from an anecdote recorded as to the formation of the town. A travelling expedition, it would seem, while conveying an image of the Virgin, came to a standstill here, nor could the animals be made to proceed until the image was left on the spot. So it remained, and to this day it is a place of great religious festivities; and express trains are run from Buenos Ayres on these occasions. Whatever may be the real facts of the case, the Lujan Mills grind good flour. The wheat is grown in Chivilcoy, the present terminus of the Western line. It is small but hard. It was to Lujan that General Beresford sent a detachment in 1807, when the first attack was made on Buenos Ayres, arising out of the war with Spain, and which was subsequently renewed under such disastrous circumstances by General Whitelock. I merely make this allusion to show that at that time it was a town of some importance. The little station of Oliveres comes next, but is yet only in course of erection, in the midst of an immense open campo, with large flocks of sheep and plenty of cattle to be seen in all directions. A fine stream of water crosses this part of the campo. The thistles, about which we hear so much, abound in most parts of the campo, but the dry season has kept them down, and they do not rise much above the surface, nor do they appear to prevent the growth of grass suitable for sheep and cattle. No donkeys are seen in this country to luxuriate on the abundance of thistles, and very few mules, horses being generally used and very badly treated. Their dead carcasses are frequently encountered, as when “used-up,” they are turned adrift to die in the campo. A few miles further brought us to Mercedes, a town of some 12,000 inhabitants, the terminus of the railway before it was lately opened to Chivilcoy, an extension of forty miles, making a total distance of 100 miles now open, and the number of stations denotes the amount of traffic carried on by this railway, for which it has a stock of 420 wagons and 20 locomotives, besides passenger cars, chiefly the large American description.

The Western Railway was originally a small passenger line to San Jose de Flores, but was afterwards continued and opened by sections, the point for goods traffic only commencing at the great open square called the 11th of September, where the goods traffic in bullock carts has always been carried on. A large number of bullock carts still find their way to that market.

We remained at Mercedes to enjoy an excellent lunch provided for us by the station master, who resides there with his family, as going on to Chivilcoy would have entailed the loss of another day, and having to sleep there with probably limited accommodation. The station at Mercedes is a very fine one, with iron pillars and a corrugated roof, brought from England; also a large roadside shed for the locomotives, workshops, &c. The large area of ground occupied by the station must be with a view to future requirements. Omnibuses and a diligence were waiting to convey passengers to the town, which is near the station, and to distant places. We did not go into the town, as it looked rather dusty and our time was limited, having to return by a special train at 1.30.

We rode some distance back on the engine, making twenty-one miles in thirty-five minutes over part of the campo, and reached the Parque station at Buenos Ayres about five o'clock, or three and half hours for a distance of about sixty miles; but we had to wait at two stations for the up train to cross, besides calling at most of the other stations, all of which involved a good deal of delay. The engines have to water frequently, and there was a scarcity of coal, so they were obliged to burn slack, mixed with cinders, causing some difficulty in keeping up steam. It must be admitted that the Government have shown real energy and determination in prosecuting this railway, which is of great benefit to the Province, and I believe well managed, yielding a good return for the capital invested. The rails used on this line are the Barlow, and they are in very excellent condition after being down several years. The line from Mercedes to Chivilcoy is laid with Griffin's rails, which I understand are not so rigid as the Barlow. There is no wood suitable for sleepers in this part of the country.

It is intended to carry on the line to the north end of Buenos Ayres, and to build a wharf out to the river, thus enabling the company to land and ship goods without passing through the city, which will be a great convenience and save expense, besides the advantage of opening up communications with the other railways by such a branch line. Eventually there is to be a Central Station on the beach for all the railways, so that goods and passengers can be conveyed from one to the other. As already observed, a branch is to be made from the Merlo station to the town of Lobos, and no doubt it will be carried further in that direction, so as to develop the resources of the country. All this will require time, and a large outlay of money, for which the Government is not prepared now, but it is sure to be accomplished later on, with many more urgent improvements required in this large and growing city.

We had a very fine day for our excursion, and enjoyed it much, thanks to the kindness of Mr. Emilio Castro, who made ample provision for creature comforts, and was exceedingly attentive. Mr. Allen, the engineer for the line, was also of the party, and gave us much valuable information. He has been many years out here, and with his brother, has worked his way to an important and responsible position.

In the Appendix will be found a very interesting description of the workshops of the Western Railway, which we extract from the columns of the Buenos Ayres _Standard_, an influential paper extensively circulated in the River Plate.

BUENOS AYRES.—SECOND NOTICE.

The more I look over this great city the more I am struck with its increase, as well as the luxury by which it has been attended, evinced in the style of building and in the large private establishments, some of which are really on a princely scale.

Speaking of public buildings, I do not much admire the opera house, called the Colon—it is badly formed and the decorations are too heavy. The gas-lights are ugly, being plain jets instead of small gas chandeliers. They give a very common-place look to the whole. The tiers of boxes look too much like _boxes_, and ought to be light and open, suited to the country. The entrances and corridors are also very rough and nearly as bad as the unfinished theatre at San Paulo, though the design of the latter is infinitely superior. On the other hand, the secondary theatres are cheerful little places, and the new Music Hall, built by private subscription, is a model for lightness and elegance. I attended an amateur concert there, and was much pleased; some fifty ladies and gentlemen forming the vocal strength, aided by a large instrumental orchestra. It was a sight not often seen at home, where _la mauvaise honte_ would prevent so agreeable a gathering. The large hall was quite filled and the programme gone through most systematically. In alluding to this building, I may remark that it is precisely of the same dimensions as the new River Plate Bank, being by the same architect. This Bank occupies a large corner area of one of the most central streets in the city, and can vie in architectural effect with many of the new buildings in Lombard-street, with the advantage of being much better seen.

The churches have often been described, and the cathedral is now a finished, handsome building, very well kept up both externally and internally, and religious observances and masses are very frequent. The Clubs of Buenos Ayres hold a conspicuous place in connection with politics, and they occasionally afford opportunities for beauty and fashion to meet at the balls held in them. The Progreso occupies the first rank, the La Plata the second, and latterly a Club called Del Parque has been established. I was up the country when the Progreso ball was held, and missed the invitation, as well as that for the Temple, but attended the ball of the La Plata, where 500 or 600 ladies and gentlemen were collected; a very gay and cheerful meeting, where all appeared to feel at home and enjoy themselves. South American society has the charm of being free from the stiffness and formality which exists in aristocratic society at home. The ladies, however, add great elegance of dress to their personal graces, which are very considerable, and they dance with great ease. With reference to the female population of Buenos Ayres, the _fêtes_ held on the anniversary of Independence (25th of May) present an excellent opportunity for seeing them to advantage out of doors. The weather was fine, and the Plaza Victoria, as well as the leading streets, was filled with well dressed ladies, particularly at night to see the fireworks. The ladies go about very freely, those who keep carriages, or can afford to hire them, generally driving a short way out of town when they are not visiting their friends. Society in Buenos Ayres is decidedly of the free and easy, friendly style, and characterised by much hospitality. The democratic element in the constitution naturally stirs up a good deal of political feeling, but I do not find this to affect the private relations of life so much as might be expected. Party spirit runs high, and the “young Republicans” especially are very bitter towards those who differ from them; but of late years political animosity has not been stained in the Argentine Confederation with crimes such as those which have prevailed at Monte Video. The continuance of the Paraguayan war and the Alliance with Brazil have lately been the great bone of contention, and shows itself on the eve of the election of a new president, on the result of which the future peace of the country may more or less depend.

I looked over the Museum, where many fine antediluvian specimens found in this country are preserved, together with a variety of curiosities in natural history, animals, birds, &c, the whole being under the superintendence of Dr. Burmeister, who is a very superior man, and I believe remains there more from his love of natural history than for the remuneration attached to the office. He has travelled much over the South American Continent.

Numerous fine hospitals exist in Buenos Ayres, both native and foreign, and the English one, which I visited in company with Mr. Boyd, chairman of the committee, and the Rev. Mr. Ford, is a very good establishment, well deserving of support by the British community and by our own Government. The hospital was formerly an old quinta, and is beautifully situated at the east end of the city, overlooking the river, the Boca, Barracas, and the country round as far as the eye can reach. It has been greatly enlarged, forming three sides of a square, the fourth comprising a neat fever ward, run up last year for cholera patients, and it proved of very great utility. The wards, on both the ground floor and upper story, are kept very clean, and Dr. Reid, the medical attendant, resides on the premises, having occupied his position for six years. The building and ground are the property of the hospital and have much increased in value, but the difficulty is in meeting the annual expenses, which can only be done by voluntary subscriptions. What is required to keep up the establishment properly is a small tonnage rate on British ships, and inasmuch as sailors derive the chief benefit from the hospital, I cannot see why this should not be done. The expenses attendant on such an institution in a foreign country are considerable, if it is to be kept in a state of efficiency. Formerly there was a tonnage rate of this kind levied on British shipping, which may have led to some abuse, and been done away with from some “ignorant impatience of taxation,” but there is no valid reason why shipping should not contribute to the support of hospitals, from which, as I have already observed, it derives the greatest amount of benefit, and without which sailors would be exposed to great hardships.

One of the disadvantages of the Spanish system of building their towns and cities in square blocks is that it creates a sameness in the streets, and narrows the approaches to them, leaving no scope for great leading thoroughfares, so that there is a constant turning of corners, and but for the names being pretty generally posted up it would be difficult for strangers to find their way. In reply to inquiries as to any particular house or locality, you are generally told that it is so many squares off, so that taking the right bearing or departure you can easily find out what you want. Then the houses are legibly numbered, which, combined with their plan of municipal taxation, ought to render a correct census easy, but there seems to be some strong objection to “numbering the people,” which I cannot account for, and to this day no one is able to tell you the population of Buenos Ayres with any certainty; some calculations only giving 100,000, others 150,000, and even as high as 200,000. I believe the last to be a great exaggeration; probably the mean of 150,000 is nearest the mark. Again, the extension of the city by squares leads to the closing up of places for which a greater space should be left. As an instance, the English burial ground was quite in the country when first made, but the city is fast encroaching upon it, and notice has lately been given to have it removed, against which a strong feeling exists, as the ground was purchased, and is the property of foreigners; so the only plan to be adopted, if any alteration is made at all, will be to close the ground to future interments, the municipality giving a piece of land a mile or two further out. This, again, has its inconveniences, as the streets leading to the present burial ground are almost unapproachable in bad weather, and beyond their limits it would be still more so. I visited the English burial ground, which is pretty well kept up, but the huge square family vaults are very unsightly, and will be rendered useless in case the burial ground is removed to another quarter.

The great native burial place called Recoleta, adjoining a church of that name, is full of monuments of all kinds, some on a most elaborate and costly scale,—little temples, in fact, where the dead are laid on shelves, visible through glass doors. The cholera visitation compelled further addition to be made to the ground, which is in a very rough, disordered state, where medical students would have full scope if they were at a loss for subjects.

Altogether the municipal regulations of the city are very defective. An effort is now being made to obtain an adequate supply of water, and some works are in course of erection on the shore in the front of the Recoleta, on the plan of Mr. Coghlan, an engineer, who has been long resident at Buenos Ayres. The works will supply a number of fountains in the city, but no project is yet on foot to carry the water into private houses, which are supplied from their own patios, where there is generally a well or large tank underground which collects the rain water. A number of plans are before the Government for draining the city, one of the most urgent and imperative of wants, and without which it is impossible to maintain the public health. It is no wonder the cholera has made such ravages, and every one dreads a revival of it, or the appearance of some other scourge during the next hot season. These mysterious visitations are warnings to large populations that they cannot violate sanitary laws with impunity, and force lethargic municipal bodies into action. No city could be more easily drained and sewered than Buenos Ayres, but it requires a large outlay of money, which the Government can ill afford at present; and I believe the municipal and provincial taxes are already at their maximum.

House rent is very high, and with the exception of meat, all the necessaries are dear. Luxuries are especially high priced. One is forcibly reminded of our old watchmen by the prevailing practice in South America of having what they call serenos, who go round calling the hour, some of them with most sepulchral voices, and they are about as useful as our “Charlies” were, only they are armed with a sword, and apt, I believe, at times to resort to it very improperly. In other respects the system of police appears to be pretty good, and considering the mixed and heterogenous population, with many bad characters about, there are less disturbances in Buenos Ayres than I expected, though, as a matter of course, many complaints are made as to the deficiency of police regulations. I was about the streets and suburbs of the city at various hours of the night and never met with the least molestation.

The city is well lighted with gas, only it is stated that the present works are inadequate to the supply, and another company is about to be formed. The charge for gas is extravagant; I am told about 24s. per thousand feet, and as a matter of course the shares are at a very high premium.

One of the most thriving occupations in the city appears to be the hire of carriages and horses. There are numerous large establishments of this kind as well as for the building of carriages; the latter as a rule are handsome and commodious. There are regular stands in the open squares, and cars are in attendance at the railway stations. For some time I could not make out what a great clatter of horses coming through the city about daylight meant; it sounded like a troop of cavalry, but I afterwards found it was the hired horses going to water at the river; indeed, horses are almost amphibious here in consequence of doing so much work in the river carts, and one day I saw an omnibus brought down on the shore to be washed and cleaned, rather a novel performance.

River storms are not of common occurrence, but they occasionally take place with great violence. It had been hot and oppressive before, but it came on to blow heavily on Sunday night, and next morning the river had risen some 12 feet, the waves dashing on the beach in a most alarming manner, and the whole of the low ground between the city and the Boca was under water, with part of the Boca Railway washed away, as well as a portion of the Northern line, interrupting, of course, the traffic on both. It was a curious sight to see the waves dashing through the willow trees which are planted along the shore, and for a time suspending washing operations. Many houses on the low ground were invaded, and the wooden ones built along the Boca, on piles, looked like great bathing machines. The iron seats placed on the shore beneath the willows were knocked over and covered with seaweed. The storm lasted two or three days, during which no communication could be had with vessels either in the inner or outer roads, and steamers were compelled to run for the Tigre to land their passengers; also lighters with cargo—the whole forming a scene of much excitement and putting an entire stop to business. It delayed the departure of our steamer several days. After the gale subsided we had some fine sunny days, and the river fell as rapidly as it had risen. This gale was not what is termed a pampero, being from the south-east, beating on the shore. A pampero frequently follows after it from the south-west, or off the shore, causing the river to fall again.

The changes of climate here are sudden and said to be unhealthy. During the two months I was in the river until the occurrence of the gale nothing could be more delicious than the weather—cool, with bright sunshine and any amount of exercise agreeable. The nights were occasionally frosty, with ice in the mornings in some places. Dust storms are terrible things during the summer, but happily are rare, and generally the forerunners of a pampero, accompanied by heavy rain, which refreshes the thirsty soil. Droughts are serious afflictions to the sheep and cattle, which often perish from their effects. Water is the great desideratum for the campo, and without it the prospects of the estanciero are blighted. As I have said before, the Banda Oriental is less subject to drought, being more undulated and better watered, but the pampas, or plains of Buenos Ayres, grow a more nutritive grass and rear finer sheep and cattle.