Brazil and La Plata: The personal record of a cruise

_May 24th._—Mr. Wells, an American gentleman of wealth, long resident in Desterro, is a person of leading influence in the commerce and society of the place. For many years he h...

_March 30th._—While in Buenos Ayres, we were indebted for repeated hospitality, at dinners and other entertainments, to the American Minister and other fellow-citizens from the...

_November 22d._—A few days at “Boa Esperenza” in the mountains of Tejuca, ten miles from Rio, proved so interesting to my friend Dr. C—— and myself, that we determined to make a...

_October 18th._—Yesterday, in company with Lieut. T—— of the Congress, and Mr. Z——, Consul for the Hanseatic towns, I made a visit to Urquiza, the chieftain of the Plata, whose...

_December 14th._—Where, or what, you will ask, is San Aliexo? It is a spot which reminds me more of my home than any place I have seen for eighteen months past, notwithstanding...

_June 20th._—On entering this port on the 16th inst., we all felt anew the exciting influence of its wild and magnificent scenery, and were constrained again to pronounce it unr...

_July 12th._—True to the announcement last night, all hands were called to weigh anchor at daybreak this morning; and, by sunrise, under the double impulse of a light land breez...

_July 1st._—The object of a visit by the Congress to Cuba, before proceeding to her station on the coast of Brazil, is to bring to a close the negotiations which have been for s...

_December 30th._—It was quite a trial to bid adieu to the charms of San Aliexo. My kind host and hostess were earnest in their persuasions to detain me through the holidays; and...

_November 9th._—Saturday more than any other is a day trying to my spirits. It is that which I appropriate to special preparation for my professional duties on the Sabbath; and...

_February 12th._—Public events here, for the last few days, have been more exciting in their progress, and more important in their issues, than any that have occurred on the Pla...

The distance from Montevideo is about a hundred miles due west. The intervening navigation is rendered intricate by sand banks and shoals, and the general shallowness of the riv...

“Away, away upon the rushing tide We hurry faster than the foam we ride, Dashing afar the waves, which round us cling, With strength like that which lifts the eagle’s wing, Wher...

_June 19th._—Two days ago, at noon, land was descried from the mast-head. We were approaching the Bahama Islands, not in the direction of the Mona Passage, but in that of the Ca...

_January 18th, 1853._—I am again in Buenos Ayres, and find it for the fourth time within the two years past, in an entirely new aspect. The contrast between its present conditio...

_December 18th._—On the morning of the 17th inst. I was called to officiate at a marriage on shore. The ceremony took place at the American Consulate, where a _déjeuner a la fou...

_June 8th, 1850._—The time for my promised record has arrived: the Congress is at sea. This afternoon, with light and baffling winds, in a most lazy and listless manner she gain...

_Sept. 4th._—Land was descried at ten o’clock, on the morning of the 1st inst., and before noon we had Cape Frio in full view, twenty miles distant. Isolated from other highland...

_February 24th._—On Saturday, I accompanied a large party of ladies and gentlemen, Americans and English, in a visit to the scene of the late battle. It is called indiscriminate...

_June 7th._—The tedium of the long stay of the Congress at Montevideo was relieved once, by a cruise of three weeks off the Plata. The chief object in this, was to exercise the...

_September 30th._—New aspects in the political affairs of the La Plata, led to the return of the Congress to this place, early last month. Previous to our departure from Rio de...

pretension. The front, occupied on the ground floor by a vestibule leading to the grand staircase, is scarce a hundred feet in width; but the building, enclosing a small quadran...

_November 26th._—The heat of the mornings on shore is becoming so intense as to make walking oppressive. Till the setting in of the sea-breeze about mid-day, the ship is altoget...

_May 30th._—Scarcely any duty in naval service can be more destitute of interest, than such as the Congress is performing off Montevideo at the present time. To the close invest...

_November 2d._—This is “All Souls day,” an anniversary of the church of Rome in commemoration of the dead, when masses are specially said for the repose of their souls; or, as a...

_February 25th._—The Argentine confederation, composed originally of thirteen states, joined together in compact, but not by constitution, under the style of the United Province...

_September 12th._—On returning from the drive of Monday, I did not accompany the party to the ship, but gave the remainder of the afternoon to a stroll in the city. Its two prin...

_September 16th._—There is no seaman’s chaplain or other American clergyman, at present at Rio; and the religious services of the Sabbath on board the Congress, since our arriva...

_December 10th._—The Congress has been a month at moorings here. Nothing worthy of special notice has occurred on shore in the interval. The court and church, by the customary p...

besieged, bombarded, and carried by storm by the English, under Sir Samuel Achmuty. After the inglorious defeat of Gen. Whithead at Buenos Ayres in 1808, and the consequent expu...

_October 20th._—On entering the harbor on the 16th inst. the lofty masts of the Brandywine were soon descried through a mist and vapor which, to a great degree, enshrouded the g...

_January 30th, 1851._—Our passage “down,” as the phrase is, was devoid of incident. We arrived on the night of the 20th inst., and are at anchor in the outer roadstead. In Octob...

Desterro—Mr. Wells—Funeral of a Child—Evening Walk—A Novena—Singular Usage—Auction at the Church—Mock Emperor—Evening Ride—Mountain View—Habits in Rural Life—Indians—Venomous Sn...

San Aliexo—Mr. and Mrs. M—— —Steam Packet—Passengers—Image Venders—San Antonio—Superstition of the People—Experience in Miracles—Admiral T—— —Luncheon—Negro Valet—Piedade—An Ame...

Hospitality in Buenos Ayres—Return to Montevideo—Public Rejoicings—Admirals Lepredour and Grenfell—Deep-Sea Soundings—Sea Scene—Walks at Desterro—Praya Compreda—A Yankee Cobbler...

Visit to Urquiza—His Encampment at Pantanoso—Marqueé of Commander-in-Chief—Travelling Carriage and Baggage Wagon—Adjutant on Duty—Reception—Personal Appearance of Urquiza—His Pe...

Christmas—Marriage of Miss K—— —Negroes in the Holidays—Scene of Revelry in the Larangeiras—Amusing Street Scene—Custom-House Regulations—Characteristic want of Confidence—Secur...

Return to Rio de Janeiro—Winter Weather there—The Larangeiras or Orange Valley—Walk along the Aqueduct—Festivals of the Romish Church—Corpus Christi and St. John’s Days—Marriage...

Overthrow of Rosas—Doña Manuelita at Palermo—Her Escape at Night in Disguise on board an English Man-of-War—Pillage in Buenos Ayres—First Checked by the Marines of the Congress...

Ascent of the Sierra of the Organ Mountains—Frieschal—La Barriera—Mules and Muleteers—Mountain Wood in Flower—Boa Vista—H—— Hall—Arrival at Constantia—Mr. Heath—His Estate—Slave...

Wedding at the American Consulate—Marriage at the Orphan Asylum—Foundling Hospital—Foreign Commerce—Arrivals in Port—U. S. Sloop St. Mary—Captain Magruder—Botanical Garden—Storm...

Return to Brazil—Assault of a Runner on board the Congress—Captain McIntosh—His Transfer to the Falmouth—Departure for the United States—Making Daylight—Ship’s Library—Sailors a...

Island of St. Catherine—Scenery at Santa Cruz—Captain Cathcart acting Consul—City of Desterro—Its Public Square—Market Place—Hotel—Civility of the Inhabitants—Manufactures of Fl...

Montevideo—Store-ship Southampton—Dr. C——, Fleet Surgeon—The Poor of Montevideo—French Troops—Dress of the Gaucho—Mr. and Madame L—— —Mrs. Z—— —Pamperos at Montevideo—Diseases o...

All Souls’ Day—Church and Convent of San Antonio—Commemoration of the Dead—Manner of preserving the Bones of the Dead—Ascent of the Corcovado—Panoramic View—Sources of the Aqued...

Buenos Ayres in 1853—Revolution and Civil War—Mode of Conducting it—Savage Atrocities of the Outside Party—Failure of all Mediations in effecting a Pacification—Final Departure...

The Prisoners of Contoy—Excitement at Havana—The Captain General and Chief of Police—Visits of Ceremony—Drive on Shore—The Volante—Paseo and Champs de Mars—Evening Promenade—Vis...

Buenos Ayres—Mode of Landing—Reception of Commodore McKeever—Evening Drive—Negro Washerwomen—Carts of the Pampas—Washington’s Birthday—Mr. Harris, American Chargé d’Affaires—Qui...

Weather at Rio—Meteorological Changes—Mountain Walks—Shops and Shopping—Restrictions upon Females by Custom—Slaves at Auction—Birthday of Don Pedro II.—National Hymn and Air—A Y...

Rio de Janeiro—The City Palace—Scenes at Court—Mode of Presentation—Character of the Emperor and Empress—Their Habits of Life—Suppression of Slave Trade—Illness of a Sailor-boy—...

Gulf of Florida—The Wreckers—Incidents in the Sick Bay—Maury’s Wind and Current Charts—The Doldrums—Crossing the Line—Neptune Aboard—Dreams of Home—Impediments to Piety on board...

Cemetery of Gamboa—Governor Kent—Tomb of the Hon. William Tudor—Island and Fortress of Villegagnon—Discovery of Brazil—Huguenot Colonists—Treachery of Villegagnon—Progress in Ci...

Prisons and Prison Discipline—Ball on Ship-board—Fête at the American Ambassador’s—Western Suburbs of Rio—Country Seat of Mr. R—— —British Flag-Ship—Admiral and Mr. Reynolds—Gar...

The Argentine Confederation—Early Life of Rosas—A Type of the People—Life in the Pampas—Police of Buenos Ayres—Description of the City—Visit to the Conde de Bessi—Nuncio from th...

Battle field of Monte Caseros—Scenes on the Way—Santos Lugares—Anecdotes of the Conflict—Triumphal Entry of the Allied Armies into Buenos Ayres—Te Deum at the Cathedral and Than...

Political State of Montevideo—Defection of Urquiza—Address of Rosas—Retreat of Oribe—Visit to the Mount—Pacification at Montevideo—Termination of the Siege—Scenes in the Streets...