Category: Travel Writing

Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East

Home Life--Anderoon, women's quarters--Jealousy in the anderoon--Anderoon of Khan Baba Khan--Two days in an anderoon--H.R.H. Princess Hamadane Sultane--Visit to the anderoon of H.R.H. the Zil-es-Sultan 84

Chapters

1. Chapter I

2. Chapter II

3. Chapter III

4. Chapter IV

5. Chapter V

6. Chapter VI

7. Chapter VII

Home Life--Anderoon, women's quarters--Jealousy in the anderoon--Anderoon of Khan Baba Khan--Two days in an anderoon--H.R.H. Princess Hamadane Sultane--Visit to the anderoon of...

8. Chapter VIII

9. Chapter IX

10. Chapter X

The Bab and Babism--Short sketch of life of the Bab--His imprisonment and execution--Parsees, or Zoroastrians--Persecutions of Parsees in seventh century--Sacred writings of Par...

11. Chapter XI

12. Chapter XII

13. Chapter XIII

Waiting for drugs and instruments--Native assistant proves a broken reed--First operation in Kerman--An anxious moment--Success--Doctrine of "savab" convenient to the Moslem--Fa...

14. Chapter XIV

15. Chapter I

16. Chapter II

17. Chapter III

18. Chapter IV

Spoiling process--Despair of the parents--The "god" of the hareem--Death by burning--Festivities at birth of boy--Cradles and cradle songs--School life--Feast in honour of a boy...

19. Chapter V

Beauty behind the veil--Types of beauty--My dear old friend of 110 years of age--Aids to beauty described--Pretty children--Beauty tainted with sin--Imprisonment of women--Peeps...

20. Chapter VI

21. Chapter VII

22. Chapter VIII

Ezekiel's vision by the river Chebar--Our vision by the river Khabour--Rivers identical--"A wheel within a wheel"--Babylonish emblem of divinity--Origin of the cherubim--Dream o...

23. Chapter IX

Characteristics of inhabitants of Mosul--Social habits--Love of drink--An effectual cure--Gambling--Tel Kaif: a story of Uncle Goro--The Angel of Death, and other titles--Diffic...

24. Chapter X

25. Chapter XI

26. Chapter XII

Desert blossoms as a rose--Flowers of the desert--Arabs, their occupation and women--Arab dancing--Robbers of the desert--An army of 10,000--Five hundred armed men--False alarms...

27. Chapter XIII

Page The Author and her Husband in Bakhtian Costume Frontispiece Persian Conveyances 26 A Halt for Lunch 26 A Novel Drying Ground 46 Persian Mode of Irrigation 46 A "Chimney" of...

28. PART I

"So, after the sore torments of the route, Toothache and headache, and the ache of mind, And huddled sleep and smarting wakefulness, And night and day, and hunger sick at food,...

29. CHAPTER I

"'Tis the sight of a lifetime to behold The great shorn sun as you see it now Across eight miles of undulant gold That widens landward, weltered and rolled With patches of shado...

30. CHAPTER II

The first view we had of Kerman was a very picturesque one. We had been travelling for about twenty days, and on Easter Eve reached a lovely garden some four or five hours' ride...

31. CHAPTER III

"Do ye hear the children weeping, O my brothers, Ere the sorrow comes with years; They are leaning their young heads against their mothers, And that cannot stop their tears; ......

32. CHAPTER IV

When speaking of the climate of Persia, Cyrus is supposed to have said, "People perish with cold at one point, while they are suffocated with heat at another," and this may be a...

33. CHAPTER V

In a climate such as has been described in the foregoing chapter, it is necessary for the sake of health to get away during a part of the hot season. Fortunately there are suita...

34. CHAPTER VI

The social life of Europeans in Persia differs very much according to the town lived in. In some parts much life and gaiety are to be found, and in others this element is conspi...

35. CHAPTER VII

"Women are weak, as you say, and love of all things to be passive, Passive, patient, receptive, yea, even of wrong and misdoing, Even to force and misdoing, with joy and victori...

36. CHAPTER VIII

The indoor costume of the Persian women is not at all pretty or graceful. It consists of a short, loose jacket, generally made of some gaily coloured material, and in the case o...

37. CHAPTER IX

There are five things which every true Mohammedan must either believe or do. The first is the declaration of their faith or "Kalimat." "I declare that there is no God but God, a...

38. CHAPTER X

Other religious sects--The Bab and Babism--Short sketch of life of the Bab--His imprisonment and execution--Parsees, or Zoroastrians--Persecutions of Parsees in seventh century-...

39. CHAPTER XI

To a lover of the desert a journey across its boundless tracts is always full of interest and delight. It is strange what an attraction the desert has for some people, and stran...

40. CHAPTER XII

"What restless forms to-day are lying, bound On sick beds, waiting till the hour come round That brings thy foot upon the chamber stair, Impatient, fevered, faint, till thou art...

41. CHAPTER XIII

Pioneer Medical Mission work in Kerman--Waiting for drugs and instruments--Native assistant proves a broken reed--First operation in Kerman--An anxious moment--Success--Doctrine...

42. CHAPTER XIV

The last of our three years' sojourn in Persia was spent in Yezd. Here there was already a small Mission Hospital, all the pioneer work having been done by Dr. White of the C.M....

43. CHAPTER I

The ancient city of Nineveh, the former capital of the Assyrian Empire, is situated on the eastern bank of the river Tigris. Little is to be seen to-day of the once famous city...

44. CHAPTER II

The population of Mosul has been estimated to be anything between sixty and eighty thousand people. If the whole "vilayet" is included the number will be something like a millio...

45. CHAPTER III

The river Tigris, on the banks of which Mosul is situated, is a noble stream. Though inferior in length to its sister the Euphrates, yet it is no mean rival, either in antiquity...

46. CHAPTER IV

Spoiling process--Despair of the parents--The "god" of the hareem--Death by burning--Festivities at birth of boy--Cradles and cradle songs--School life--Feast in honour of a boy...

47. CHAPTER V

Beauty behind the veil--Types of beauty--My dear old friend of 110 years of age--Aids to beauty described--Pretty children--Beauty tainted with sin--Imprisonment of women--Peeps...

48. CHAPTER VI

"The Very God! think, Abib, dost thou think? So, the All-Great, were the All-Loving too-- So, through the Thunder comes a human voice Saying, 'Oh, heart I made, a heart beats he...

49. CHAPTER VII

We have seen that a wedding is a very expensive matter in Mosul, especially to parents who possess three or four daughters; for unless the necessary gold, jewellery, and clothin...

50. CHAPTER VIII

Ezekiel's vision by the river Chebar--Our vision by the river Khabour--Rivers identical--"A wheel within a wheel"--Babylonish emblem of divinity--Origin of the cherubim--Dream o...

51. CHAPTER IX

Characteristics of inhabitants of Mosul--Social habits--Love of drink--An effectual cure--Gambling--Tel Kaif: a story of Uncle Goro--The Angel of Death and other titles--Difficu...

52. CHAPTER X

The Yezidees, or, as they are commonly called, "devil-worshippers," are a very remarkable tribe living in the near vicinity of Mosul. Very little is really known as to their rel...

53. CHAPTER XI

Travelling in the desert is apt to become rather monotonous when each day goes by with nothing to mark it from the preceding one, so that when some event out of the common does...

54. CHAPTER XII

Desert blossoms as a rose--Flowers of the desert--Arabs, their occupation and women--Arab dancing--Robbers of the desert--An army of ten thousand--Five hundred armed men--False...

55. CHAPTER XIII

It is often thought that in the East, whenever an English doctor arrives at a city, patients throng to him from all quarters. This is only partially true, at least in the near E...