Part 6

Those who desire to go as far as the dam must be sure to obtain permits from the Metropolitan Water District before leaving Manila, otherwise the trip will have to end at the head of the deep gorge at the gate of the reservoir. With such a permit the visitor is allowed to enter the reservoir gate and he proceeds up the shaded walk to the dam and reservoir.

The walk to the reservoir is only a few minutes, up a well-kept path lined with shrubs, trees, and flowers with the rushing water of the river below to the left.

The reservoir, surrounded by the green mountain sides, makes a pretty picture reminding the visitor of some of the descriptions of lakes in the Scottish Islands, as depicted by Sir Walter Scott in some of his works.

[Different Return Route]

The return to Manila may be made by way of Pasig, the capital of the Province of Rizal, after leaving Mariquina where the roads branch. On this way back, Fort Wm. McKinley is worth visiting. It is said to be the largest army post under the American flag and one of the best administered. It cannot fail to impress the visitor because of its fine buildings, spacious parade grounds and attractive officers' quarters.

VIII. OTHER CITIES

BAGUIO

[Baguio]

Baguio, which is often called the Simla of the Philippines, is classed with even more famous mountain resorts by its admirers. By automobile it is about eight hours' ride from Manila. By train and passenger trucks combined, it is about eleven hours.

The Benguet road is the most traveled route. It leaves the lowlands at Dagupan and now ascends, now crosses and recrosses the gorge of the Bued River, coiling back on itself in the famous Zig-zag, where the inspirations of Baguio's natural wonders begin. Cooler and cooler grows the air, behind drops all the lowland vegetation, to make room for sturdy trees of the temperate zone. Wave on wave the trees roll up the mountains that stand on each other's shoulders below, around and above the small tableland on which Baguio edges away from the sheer precipice at the head of the gorge.

For some years a summer capital to which the Government transferred its work and personnel during the hot months, it is a chartered city, but the all-year residents are few, though many of the well-to-do of Manila have summer homes there. It has two hotels and several cottages for visitors.

No one may know the Philippines adequately without visiting this, the temperate beauty spot of the Archipelago. Pure forest-scented air, cooled by lofty peaks and a city that is well laid out representing what is best in the Islands' civic progress are the outstanding "strands in the fabric of Baguio's attractions." Here is a fairyland of green--gardens, beautiful walks, and easily accessible peaks commanding exquisite vistas of valleys and neighboring mountain tops.

[Camp John Hay]

Camp John Hay, the military hospital post, is the main show place, among its beauties being the open air amphitheater that General Bell built with mountaineer labor, terraced as their wonderful rice terraces are, and gay with flowers.

Other places to see are the Mansion House, the official summer residence of the Governor-General; Bishop Brent's School for American children and the School for mountain girls; the Constabulary School; the rest houses of the different religious Orders; Mirador, the Observatory, and Mt. Santo Tomas, whence a glorious view may be had over the whole majestic panorama of mountains and valleys to the lowlands and to the China Sea. On horseback or afoot, in Baguio and its immediate environs, just enjoying the air, the roses, the pungent pines, the tree ferns, the fields of Benguet lilies, every day is a delight. But beyond lie more regions that beckon.

[Trinidad Valley]

The strawberries and green peas at Trinidad, where are the Government stock farm and agricultural school, extend an occidental welcome to the visitors. On the mountain train to Bontoc the rest houses with their big open fire places are just like homes in the temperate zone. The great orerich valley of Amburayan lies on one side of the divide; on the other is the Lepanto basin with Cervantes in the cap of the hills. Sagada and Lubuagan are easy of access by side roads and trails, but to reach Tawang and Balbalan means difficult and proportionally interesting and exhilarating going through magnificent forests of cedar, from one rancheria to another. At Banaue are rice terraces nearly a mile in height. Generation after generation has toiled to build them. The mission stations with their schools where the young folks are taught modern trades and perfected in their own handicrafts are heart-warming evidences alike of Christian love and charity and self-sacrifice and grateful appreciation of the mountain peoples and their eagerness to join their brethren of the lowlands in the full light of civilization.

Descending on horseback in a westward direction one comes to Butac, and a telephone message will bring an auto to whisk one on the Tagudin, the sea outlet of the Mountain Province, that has a Belgian convent noted for its laces and embroideries. The train or an auto will convey the traveler thence north to the extreme end of Luzon and back down the coast of Manila. The great North Road, that follows the sea most of the way, is a scenic route for its entire length, and along or near it are interesting old towns to visit, such as Laoag, San Fernando, which offer delightful sea bathing, Vigan, Paoay, San Vicente, and Bangui, where the Ilocano weavers, carvers, and potters can be watched at their fascinating tasks.

CEBU

[The City of Cebu]

Cebu, the metropolis of the Visayan Islands, is the oldest European city in the Philippines and one of the oldest occidental settlements in the East. Discovered and temporarily occupied by Magellan in 1521, it became a permanent Spanish possession in 1565, having thus almost exactly the same age as the other Spanish settlement, St. Augustine, in Florida. It is situated about midway of the east coast of the island of the same name. The island itself is practically coextensive with the Province of Cebu, of which the city is the capital. The province has the largest population of any in the Archipelago and is one of the most thickly inhabited. The city has a good harbor, protected by the Island of Mactan, and the scene which unfolds itself from the moment of entering the channel, between this Island and that of Cebu proper is a very busy one. There are good harbor facilities, and seagoing vessels of large draft are able to tie up along the docks.

Cebu is a fascinating mixture of old and new and contains a considerable number of places of special interest. The waterfront is busy with the various activities arising from the city's position as one of the chief centers of the Islands' hemp trade. Here is a good opportunity to see the finest grades of this important staple, of which the Philippines have practically a monopoly.

[Places of Historic Interest]

Most of the places of historic interest are within a short distance of this point. Calle Colon, the oldest street in the Islands, is in this city. On the main plaza is a small building housing a large hollow cross. This contains within it another cross, which, according to the most probable story, is the original one erected to mark the spot where Magellan and his companions gathered for the first mass on Philippine soil. But a short distance away is the old triangular Fort San Pedro, standing approximately on the site of Magellan's fortifications; and in the same neighborhood stands the Augustinian church and convent. Here the sacristan will show to visitors the curious image known as the "Holy Child of Cebu." It is agreed by historians that this is the one which was given by Magellan in 1521 to the temporarily converted wife of the rajah of Cebu, and recovered forty years later after the landing of Legaspi.

An automobile road through the Province of Cebu gives a pleasing succession of views of the sea through arcades of coconut palms that fringe the long narrow island of Cebu; a second road cuts across its backbone, giving finer views still.

ILOILO

[The City of Iloilo]

The City of Iloilo is the sugar port. It is situated on the east coast of the Island of Panay, along the lower reaches of the river whose name it bears, and is about 300 miles from Manila, in a direction a little east of south. It is one of the most important ports of the Philippines and carries on with Cebu an amiable contest for the dignity of ranking as the second city. It has direct shipping connections with Europe, the Straits Settlements, China, Japan, and Australia; and there are many boats sailing to other portions of the Archipelago, including a regular service to Cebu. There are banking institutions and a number of importing and exporting houses, and the local trade reaches up into high figures. Substantial walls have been built along the river, where large steamers can unload. Ships of greater draft anchor in the harbor, where they are well in shore and protected.

Near it are two towns of considerable historic interest--Jaro and Molo. A railroad runs through the province and its neighbor Capiz, thus making it easy to see a considerable portion of the Island of Panay, which is made up of the provinces of Iloilo, Capiz, and Antique. There are the white coral cliffs near Ventura, honeycombed with caves, with interesting legends attached to them, as is the case with one having its outlet in Dumalag, Capiz. The stone church at Miagao has the most quaintly carved facade in the Islands. The hand weaving of the delicate textiles jusi, piña, and the like is one of the leading industries of Iloilo Province.

ZAMBOANGA

Zamboanga in Mindanao is the capital of the whole Moro Province and one of the most important ports in the Islands. Its population is very cosmopolitan--an admixture of Moros, Filipinos, Orientals, and Caucasians. The city was for more than three centuries the rallying point of the Christian forces in their seemingly endless contest with the Moro pirates in neighboring waters.

The city has a healthful site and is cooler than Manila. It has a modern water system and electric lighting plant. It is well laid out and maintained in park-like order for some distance back from the pier. This area, where many of the principal buildings are, is embellished by fountains and lily basins, ornamental stone and concrete seats and figures and an almost complete collection of the flowering and other ornamental trees, vines, and shrubs of the Philippines. The Provincial Capitol, the Army Post, and Constabulary Headquarters, the old fort of Nuestra Señora del Pilar and the Cathedral, and the Moro market are the most interesting to inspect. Nearby is the Moro village of Kawa-Kawa, built out over the water.

[The San Ramon Penal Colony]

In the outskirts there are several points of interest reached by excellent roads--the gorge, which has some beautiful mountain and river scenery, about five miles distant; the San Ramon Penal Colony about thirteen miles from the city where an experimental farm is being maintained. In addition to these attractions its position with respect to Borneo, Australia, the Dutch possessions, and the Malay Peninsula gives it great potential importance as a trade center.

IX. THE PROVINCES--BEAUTY SPOTS

The Philippine Archipelago is a compact group of islands. The distances between each island require only a few hours of sailing. They therefore have been said to possess strategic unity. From the northernmost port, Aparri, to the southernmost Zamboanga, the total distance is 895 miles. It takes only 36 hours from Manila to Aparri and about 72 from Manila to Zamboanga. With faster boats, the time required will be much less.

In each island the provinces and the important towns are easily accessible. They are connected by good roads. In the bigger islands the Manila Railroad operates lines, such as in Luzon, Cebu, and Iloilo.

The trip through the provinces should be taken whenever possible. Barring the usual discomforts of a tropical clime, there are delights galore for everyone, even for the hardy sportsman--pristine forests, crystal streams, splashing falls. The panoramas that unfold as the traveler motors from province to province or cruises about from island to island present a continuous series of scenic pictures of infinite variety. In other lands nature and man have combined their efforts in forming recreation spots of compelling charm. In the Philippines it is only nature that has done the work.

The services of a guide should in all cases be secured in order to expedite the visits. Applications for guides should be made to the Director of the Bureau of Commerce and Industry.

LAGUNA PROVINCE.--The Province of Laguna is situated on a narrow plain which lies to the east, south, and southeast of Laguna Lake, commonly known as Laguna de Bay. It is a very fertile province and has a very pleasant climate, the usual temperature being several degrees cooler than Manila. It produces coconuts, rice, sugar-cane, abaca, corn and a great variety of fruits and vegetables.

In industrial enterprises the province is very progressive. Some of the largest kind of hemp cables are made in the rope factory of Santa Cruz. Buntal hats and pandan mats are made in Majayjay and Luisiana, pandan hats in Cavisti, Sabutan hats in Mavitac, rattan chairs in Paquil and Los Baños, wooden slippers in Biñan and Calamba, and abacá slippers in Lilio. Furniture is also made in Paete, soap in Santa Cruz, crude pottery in Lumban, better grade of glazed pottery in San Pedro Tunasan, coconut wine in the upper towns, and embroidery in Lumbang. Mineral waters are bottled in Los Baños, Pagsanjan, and Magdalena. A steam saw mill is located in Santa Maria. In Los Baños is a stone quarry that supplies crushed stone for the Provinces of Bulacan, Rizal, Cavite, Batangas, and Tayabas.

The province, besides having a rich soil, has an abundance of water supply. The Laguna de Bay, the largest lake in the Philippines, permits of easy and cheap transportation. Fifteen of the 28 municipalities are reached by water and a line of steam launches provides a daily service between the lake and the city of Manila. The lake abounds in fish. The swamps along its eastern shores are overgrown with pandan groves. The bay is covered during the rainy season with the pink-flowered lotus plant. Along the low shores are veritable hunting grounds which abound in snipe and wild ducks.

The province also abounds in picturesque sceneries, in the San Pablo Valley there are nine beautifully-set crater lakes. Banahaw, a mountain having an elevation of 7,382 feet, is covered with vegetation of all kinds. In the crater of San Cristobal which has an elevation of about 5,000 feet there is a beautiful fresh water lake.

San Pablo is a progressive town well worth visiting. It is one of the largest towns in the Islands and is up-to-date in every respect. A large park overlooks a lake of rare beauty with the majestic San Cristobal mountains in the background. A long flight of white stone steps leads from the cliff above down to the lake shore, and the park is a favorite picnic ground. The veteran's monument at this point always attracts much attention. The town has numerous private residences of striking architectural design.

[Pagsanjan Falls]

One of the prettiest and wildest spots lies within easy reach of Manila--Pagsanjan Falls. Pagsanjan, the town, in itself worth seeing for its beautiful residences and the surrounding forests, can be reached in three and one-half hours by train or automobile through a lovely coconut country. There are good hotel accommodations with clean beds and food. Everything is done for the tourist; arrangements are made for boats and guides, and launches are provided.

From the hotel you walk a short distance to a long row of bancas, prow on shore, and a noisy throng of men clamoring for the favor of your patronage; but you have probably chosen men at the hotel and are conducted to certain boats by your guide. In the center of your boat is the seat, a split bamboo chair with reclining back and bottom of bamboo splints. The two boatmen take their places at the ends of the boat and push off into the small stream for a few hundred yards to Pagsanjan River.

The boat is paddled up the river past large rafts of coconuts, by great trees dipping their leaves into the water. Along the shores are parties of laughing people--some bathing and some washing clothes. Now there are long reaches of quiet water, clear and deep; then banks begin to rise above you; there is a swirl here, a ripple there, and a swish below the gunwales. You are drawing toward the rapids. The boatmen get put into the water and pull and tug and shove; the water sucks viciously. The boat enters the gorge and its shadows. The river becomes silent stretches of black water, and the air is cold. Above, for hundreds of feet, tower the great cliffs of Pagsanjan to which cling vines, desperate trees, and dripping shrubs. On all sides are falls breaking upon the rocks and filling the canyon with a pleasant murmur; then more rapids and sweeps of fierce water. Great boulders have fallen into the river. Unable to paddle against the current or to wade, the men now fight painfully forward by clinging to vines, the rocks, anything. Then out of the boat again, lifting it and you bodily up steps of pouring water, around corners, shooting across a quiet pool into a fury of cascading foam. At times you scramble out of the boat and detour a little over intervening rocks, while the fight with the river goes on. For two hours the journey continues, until you come to the end--a large pool--above you, Pagsanjan Falls, the largest waterfall in the Islands, around, the insurmountable cliffs fringed above by shining palms. Monkeys and iguanas scurry over the slippery bluffs complaining at intrusion.

You should go prepared to rough it. Only a bathing suit is worn in the boats and except at times of low water, kodaks had better be left at the hotel, for rapids lap over the side. Indeed many have been the spills in the swift water. But there is no danger, and a wetting is of no consequence. The whole trip need cost no more than twenty pesos nor occupy more than a day and a half.

It is a wonderful trip for those who enjoy the wilds. The gorge is considered one of the beauty spots of the world.

RIZAL PROVINCE.--To the north of Laguna de Bay, is Rizal Province, named after the national hero of the Filipinos. Pasig, the capital is an important commercial town. It is located on the Pasig River, a stream which is navigable thruout the year. Malabon, noted for her fisheries and fish ponds, furnishes the City of Manila with choice fish to the value of hundreds of thousands of pesos a year. A flourishing poultry industry may be seen at Pateros. Parañaque is noted for its embroideries while in Mariquina the chief industry is the making of shoes and slippers. Along the borders of the Pasig River much grass is cultivated to furnish the Manila market with green fodder for horses and carabaos.

In this province are the towns of Pasig, San Juan del Monte, and Caloocan where the first blood of the Philippine Revolution against Spain was shed. Here also is to be found the historic spot of Balintawak where Andres Bonifacio and his followers sounded the well-remembered "Cry of Balintawak," the call for the outbreak of the Revolution.

[Antipolo]

Antipolo has the shrine of Our Lady of Peace and Prosperous Voyages. It is a town about half an hour's ride from Manila. It is built on a mountainous section of the province of Rizal. The road is rather steep and the scenery quite wild and impressive.

The image of the Virgin, commonly known as the "Virgin of Antipolo," was originally brought from Mexico by the Spaniards to insure the safety of the galleons from the anger of the sea, and from the attacks of the pirates who used to lie in wait in the San Bernardino Strait and Verde Island Passage.

[Shrine]

The shrine is the most famous of all Philippine shrines. To it thousands of devout Filipinos journey annually to pay their respects. The Virgin is dressed in a robe that falls in a cone stiff with gold and other jewels. It is estimated that the value of her decoration is as high as P1,000,000.

The true history of the image is interesting, but still more remarkable is the crust of legend with which the facts have become overlaid. It was actually brought to the Islands in 1626 by Juan Niño de Tabora, who had just been appointed Governor-General, and in 1672 it was removed to its present home. According to the legends, the Virgin crossed the Pacific eight or nine times, in addition to the original voyage, and, on each one, calmed a tempest. On other occasions she is said to have descended and appeared among the branches of the antipolo or bread-fruit tree (whence the name of the present church), to have survived the roaring fire in which the Chinese rebels cast her in 1639, and to have given the Spaniards a complete victory over twelve Dutch warships off Mariveles!

CAVITE PROVINCE.--This province is in the southwestern part of Luzon lying along the shore of Manila Bay. It has a fine harbor in the city of Cavite, actually the site of the United States Naval Station.

The most important agricultural products are rice, hemp, sugar, copra, cacao, coffee, corn, and coconuts.

The city of Cavite, the capital, noted for its dock-yards is just across the bay from Manila. It is an old town of historic interest. It was there that the ships used in the Manila-Acapulco trade and in the expeditions against the Mohammedan pirates in the south were fitted out. In 1647 a Dutch squadron suddenly made its appearance off the coast of the city and bombarded the fort. It is said that the Dutch fired more than 2,000 cannon balls at the place, but in the end, however, were forced to withdraw.

In 1872, a military mutiny led by Lamadrid took place in Cavite. This mutiny though insignificant in itself had important political results. The government made it an excuse for the execution of three leading native priests, Dr. Jose Burgos and Fathers Gomez and Zamora, and for the exile of many Filipino leaders of the liberal movement of 1869-1871.

[Zapote Bridge]

From the beginning to the very end of the Revolution, Cavite Province was the center of military operations. Zapote bridge, for example, was more than once the scene of hard fighting. Practically every town in the province was at one time or another fought over. Many of the leaders of the Revolution, like Emilio Aguinaldo, who was President of the Philippine Republic, his cousin Baldomero, Noriel, Trias, and others are sons of Cavite. Moreover, when the Revolutionary Government was established, Bacoor was really the first capital.

[Radio Station]

The city of Cavite is the United States' Navy base and radio station in the Philippine Islands. The arsenal as well as the modern wireless station in the extreme end of the peninsula should not be missed. The city is about an hour's ride by automobile passing through the towns of Parañaque, Las Piñas, Kawit, Noveleta, and San Roque. In the church at Las Piñas may be seen the famous bamboo organ, old and quaint, yet still serviceable. It was made by a priest exclusively from the native bamboo tree. Cavite can also be reached by water, there being small boats plying between the city and Manila at regular intervals.

[Kawit]

Kawit or Cavite Viejo is the town of General Emilio Aguinaldo. He has his home there, which is noted for its historic interest. It is preserved as it was during revolutionary days. Visitors can still see the desk used by the General during the revolution as well as the holes made by a cannon ball from Admiral Dewey's flagship "The Olimpia."