Part 1

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BEAUTIFUL GARDENS IN AMERICA

BOOKS BY LOUISE SHELTON PUBLISHED BY CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

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BEAUTIFUL GARDENS IN AMERICA. Illustrated. 4to _net_ $5.00 CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA. Illustrated. 4to _net_ $2.00 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN. Illustrated. 12mo _net_ $1.00

BEAUTIFUL GARDENS IN AMERICA

BY LOUISE SHELTON

SECOND EDITION

NEW YORK CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 1916

COPYRIGHT, 1915, BY CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

DEDICATED TO THE PRAISE OF THOSE AMERICAN MEN AND WOMEN, OF WHATSOEVER PERIOD, WHO HAVE PLANTED SO BEAUTIFULLY THAT THEIR GARDENS ARE AN INSPIRATION TO OTHERS IN ALL GENERATIONS

IN GREEN OLD GARDENS

Here may I live what life I please, Married and buried out of sight, Married to pleasure, and buried to pain, Hidden away amongst scenes like these Under the fans of the chestnut trees: Living my child-life over again, With the further hope of a fuller delight, Blithe as the birds and wise as the bees. In green old gardens hidden away From sight of revel, and sound of strife, Here have I leisure to breathe and move, And do my work in a nobler way; To sing my songs, and to say my say; To dream my dreams, and to love my love, To hold my faith and to live my life, Making the most of its shadowy day.

--VIOLET FANE.

CONTENTS

PAGE FOREWORD xv CHAPTER I. THE GARDEN AND ITS MEANING 1 II. CLIMATE IN AMERICA 8 III. NEW ENGLAND 13 MAINE 14 NEW HAMPSHIRE AND VERMONT 27 MASSACHUSETTS 37 RHODE ISLAND 79 CONNECTICUT 89 IV. NEW YORK 99 LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK 127 V. NEW JERSEY 155 VI. PENNSYLVANIA 187 VII. MARYLAND 205 VIII. VIRGINIA 219 IX. SOUTH CAROLINA 235 X. GEORGIA AND FLORIDA 247 XI. TENNESSEE AND MISSOURI 255 XII. ILLINOIS AND INDIANA 265 XIII. OHIO 277 XIV. MICHIGAN AND WISCONSIN 287 XV. NEW MEXICO 299 XVI. CALIFORNIA 303 XVII. OREGON AND WASHINGTON 323 XVIII. ALASKA 337 XIX. VANCOUVER ISLAND 340 A FEW GARDEN GATES 347

ILLUSTRATIONS

COLOR-PLATES

PLATE

I "MARIEMONT," NEWPORT, R. I. _Frontispiece_

II } III } "FAIRLAWN," LENOX, MASS. _Facing page_ 42

IV THE AUTHOR'S CHILDHOOD GARDEN 106

V SOUTHAMPTON, L. I. 130

VI "GLEN ALPINE," MORRISTOWN, N. J. 160

VII } VIII } ROLAND PARK, BALTIMORE, MD. 210

_Plates I, V, VII, and VIII were reproduced from photographs colored by Mrs. Herbert A. Raynes, the basis of which were autochrome photographs._

HALF-TONE PLATES

PLATE

1 "KENARDEN LODGE," BAR HARBOR, MAINE

2 "BLAIR EYRIE," BAR HARBOR, MAINE

3 } 4 } "HAMILTON HOUSE," SOUTH BERWICK, MAINE 5 }

6 } 7 } 8 } CORNISH, N. H. 9 } 10 }

11 OLD BENNINGTON, VT.

12 } 13 } "WELD," BROOKLINE, MASS. 14 }

15 WELLESLEY, MASS.

16 "HOLM LEA," BROOKLINE, MASS.

17 } 18 } "FAIRLAWN," LENOX, MASS. 19 }

20 } 21 } "BELLEFONTAINE," LENOX, MASS. 22 }

23 "OVERLOCH," WENHAM, MASS.

24 "FERNBROOKE," LENOX, MASS.

25 "CHESTERWOOD," GLENDALE, MASS.

26 } 27 } "RIVERSIDE FARM," TYRINGHAM, MASS. 28 }

29 "NAUM KEAG," STOCKBRIDGE, MASS.

30 "BROOKSIDE," GREAT BARRINGTON, MASS.

31 "ROCK MAPLE FARM," HAMILTON, MASS.

32 BROOKLINE, MASS.

33 LONGFELLOW'S GARDEN, CAMBRIDGE, MASS.

34 OLD WITCH HOUSE, SALEM, MASS.

35 "MARIEMONT," NEWPORT, R. I.

36 "THE ELMS," NEWPORT, R. I.

37 "VERNON COURT," NEWPORT, R. I.

38 "VILLASERRA," WARREN, R. I.

39 "WOODSIDE," HARTFORD, CONN.

40 "ELMWOOD," POMFRET, CONN.

41 POMFRET CENTRE, CONN.

42 "BRANFORD HOUSE," GROTON, CONN.

43 POMFRET CENTRE, CONN.

44 } AUBURN, N. Y. 45 }

46 SECTION OF A WILD GARDEN AT TUXEDO PARK, N. Y.

47 "WOODLAND," TUXEDO, N. Y.

48 "CRAGSWERTHE," TUXEDO, N. Y.

49 "BLITHEWOOD," BARRYTOWN-ON-HUDSON, N. Y.

50 } 51 } "WODENETHE," BEACON-ON-HUDSON, N. Y.

52 } 53 } THE AUTHOR'S CHILDHOOD GARDEN, NEWBURGH-ON-HUDSON, N. Y.

54 "ECHO LAWN," NEWBURGH-ON-HUDSON, N. Y.

55 } 56 } "MEADOWBURN," WARWICK, N. Y.

57 "RIDGELAND FARM," BEDFORD, N. Y.

58 SOUTHAMPTON, L. I.

59 } 60 } 61 } "THE ORCHARD," SOUTHAMPTON, L. I. 62 }

63 } 64 } "THE APPLETREES," SOUTHAMPTON, L. I.

65 SOUTHAMPTON, L. I.

66 } 67 } 68 } EAST HAMPTON, L. I. 69 }

70 "MANOR HOUSE," GLEN COVE, L. I.

71 CEDARHURST, L. I.

72 WESTBURY, L. I.

73 "MANOR HOUSE," GLEN COVE, L. I.

74 "SYLVESTER MANOR," SHELTER ISLAND

75 "CHERRYCROFT," MORRISTOWN, N. J.

76 "RIDGEWOOD HILL," MORRISTOWN, N. J.

77 MORRISTOWN, N. J.

78 } 79 } "BLAIRSDEN," PEAPACK, N. J. 80 }

81 "BROOKLAWN," SHORT HILLS, N. J.

82 } 83 } "DRUMTHWACKET," PRINCETON, N. J. 84 }

85 "ONUNDA," MADISON, N. J.

86 "GLEN ALPINE," MORRISTOWN, N. J.

87 "THORNTON," RUMSON, N. J.

88 HIGHLAND, N. J.

89 "ALLGATES," HAVERFORD, PA.

90 } ANDALUSIA, PA. 91 }

92 "EDGECOMBE," CHESTNUT HILL, PHILADELPHIA, PA.

93 "KRISHEIM," CHESTNUT HILL, PHILADELPHIA, PA.

94 } 95 } "WILLOW BANK," BRYN MAWR, PA.

96 "FANCY FIELD," CHESTNUT HILL, PHILADELPHIA, PA.

97 "TIMBERLINE," BRYN MAWR, PA.

98 "BALLYGARTH," CHESTNUT HILL, PHILADELPHIA, PA.

99 "HAMPTON," TOWSON, MD.

100 "EVERGREEN-ON-AVENUE," BALTIMORE, MD.

101 "CYLBURN HOUSE," CYLBURN, BALTIMORE CO., MD.

102 "INGLESIDE," CATONSVILLE, MD.

103 "THE BLIND," HAVRE DE GRACE, MD.

104 } 105 } MONTPELIER, VA. 106 } 107 }

108 } "ROSE HILL," GREENWOOD, VA. 109 }

110 "MEADOWBROOK MANOR," DREWRY'S BLUFF, VA.

111 RICHMOND, VA.

112 } "MAGNOLIA GARDEN," CHARLESTON, S. C. 113 }

114 } 115 } "PRESTON GARDEN," COLUMBIA, S. C. 116 }

117 } 118 } "GREEN COURT," AUGUSTA, GA. 119 }

120 TROPICAL GROWTH, PALM BEACH, FLA.

121 "ROSTREVOR," KNOXVILLE, TENN.

122 LONGVIEW, TENN.

123 "HAZELWOOD," KINLOCH, MO.

124 LAKE FOREST, ILL.

125 "HARDIN HALL," HUBBARD'S WOOD, ILL.

126 } "THE FARMS," MONTICELLO, ILL. 127 }

128 } THE ROCK GARDEN, "ENGLISHTON PARK," LEXINGTON, IND. 129 }

130 "GWINN," CLEVELAND, OHIO

131 } 132 } CLIFTON, CINCINNATI, OHIO 133 }

134 "SHADYSIDE," PAINESVILLE, OHIO

135 } 136 } "INDIAN HILL," MENTOR, OHIO

137 "ORCHARD HOUSE," ALMA, MICH.

138 "GARRA-TIGH," BAY CITY, MICH.

139 "FAIRLAWN," GROSSE POINTS SHORES, MICH.

140 } "HOUSE-IN-THE-WOODS," LAKE GENEVA, WIS. 141 }

142 LAS CRUCES, N. M.

143 } "KIMBERLY CREST," REDLANDS, CAL. 144 }

145 "GLENDESSARY," SANTA BARBARA, CAL.

146 } 147 } "PIRANHURST," SANTA BARBARA, CAL. 148 }

149 ROSS, CAL.

150 PASADENA, CAL.

151 } 152 } 153 } "CANON CREST PARK," REDLANDS, CAL. 154 }

155 TYPICAL GROWTH IN CALIFORNIA

156 } 157 } "THORNEWOOD," TACOMA, WASH. 158 }

159 } 160 } SEATTLE, WASH.

161 SECTION OF A ROSE HEDGE BORDERING AN AVENUE IN PORTLAND, ORE.

162 "ROSECREST," PORTLAND HEIGHTS, PORTLAND, ORE.

163 "CLIFF COTTAGE," ELK ROCK, PORTLAND, ORE.

164 "HIGH HATCH," RIVERWOOD, PORTLAND, ORE.

165 } 166 } VICTORIA CITY, VANCOUVER ISLAND, B. C.

167 LONGVIEW, TENN.

168 "KNOCK-MAE-CREE," WESTPORT, CONN.

169 } 170 } "HAMILTON HOUSE," SOUTH BERWICK, MAINE

171 } 172 } "GLEN ALPINE," MORRISTOWN, N. J.

173 EAST HAMPTON, L. I.

174 "GLENDESSARY," SANTA BARBARA, CAL.

175 CLIFTON, CINCINNATI, OHIO.

176 "THORNEWOOD," TACOMA, WASH.

TITLE-PAGE: EAST HAMPTON, L. I., ALBERT HERTER, ESQ. From a photograph by Jessie Tarbox Beals.

"A garden was wonderful at night--a place of strange silences and yet stranger sound: trees darkly guarding mysterious paths that ran into caverns of darkness; the scents of flowers rising from damp earth heavy with dew; flowers that were weary with the dust and noise of the day and slept gently, gratefully, with their heads drooping to the soil, their petals closed by the tender hands of the spirits of the garden. The night sounds were strangely musical. Cries that were discordant in the day mingled now with the running of distant water, the last notes of some bird before it slept, the measured harmony of a far-away bell, the gentle rustle of some arrival in the thickets; the voice that could not be heard in the noisy chatter of the day rose softly now in a little song of the night and the dark trees and the silver firelight of the stars."

--HUGH WALPOLE.

FOREWORD

Books and magazines written by and for American architects usually show in their illustrations fine imitations of lovely French, English, and Italian formalism and works of art in marble or other stone ornamenting the gardens of great mansions in this country.

The object of this book is to present, more particularly, another type of garden, demonstrating the cultured American's love of beauty expressed through plant life rather than in stone; showing the development of his ideal in more original directions, when planning for himself the garden spot in which he is to live rather than when building wholly in imitation of some accepted type of classic art.

With but few exceptions, these illustrations are of a class which might be called personal gardens. The attractive features in nearly every view speak so eloquently for themselves that there seems but little need of detailed verbal description of each beautiful spot.

In covering all sections of the country, occasion is given for the observation and study of widely varying climatic conditions, the results of which the author has also sought to consider.

Some difficulty has been felt in properly ascribing the ownership of a number of the gardens illustrated. As a rule, there is but one recognized director of the garden's welfare--rarely are two members of a household equally interested. While he is by custom acknowledged master of the house, it is oftener she who rules supreme among the flowers. Misnaming the real possessor might be a serious mistake; attributing the ownership to two is superfluous; the benefit, where any doubt existed, has been therefore given to the fair sex, with due apology for possible errors.

LOUISE SHELTON. MORRISTOWN, N. J., October 28, 1915.

BEAUTIFUL GARDENS

IN AMERICA

A GARDEN

Come not with careless feet To tread my garden's unfrequented ways. No highroad this, no busy clanging street, No place of petty shows and fond displays. Here there are blossoms sweet That shrink and pine from inconsiderate gaze; And here the birds repeat Only to loving ears their truest lays. Hither I can retreat And drink of peace where peace unravished stays. Herein are streams of sorrow no man knows-- Herein a well of joy inviolate flows; Come not with careless feet To soil my garden's sanctuary ways.

--ANONYMOUS.

I

THE GARDEN AND ITS MEANING

A world without flowers! What would it be? Among those who know, such a question needs no answer--and we are not seeking a reply from the uninitiated who, for lack of understanding and sympathy, can but gaze at us with wondering pity, when our gardens cause us to overlook so much that to them means life. But is there any life more real than the life in the garden for those who actually take part in its creation and nurture it carefully week by week and year by year? If, owing to this absorbing occupation, we fail to give a full share of ourselves to some of the social avocations of the busy world are we to be pitied for getting "back to the soil" to which we belong? Man was put by the Creator "in the Garden of Eden to dress it and to keep it," and even after his forced departure therefrom he was bidden to "till the ground," and the reward seems great to us who know the meaning of the signs and wonders continually being revealed in the garden world.

In seeking the simpler life which many are now craving, if luxuries are blessings that we could do without, must we count the flower garden a luxury? Not while its beauty is a joy in which others may share, nor when it helps to keep at home our interests which make the real home. There is a luxury that often induces the roaming spirit, and doubtless were there fewer motors there would be still more gardens and incidentally more home life. Yet notwithstanding this temptation to roam, gardens are now on the increase in almost every section of the United States. We have made a brave beginning of which to be justly proud.

If only we could live in the world more as we live in the garden, what joy and contentment would be brought into the daily life! In the garden hurry and noise are needless, for perfect system can prevail where each plant, each labor has its own especial time, and where haste is a stranger, quiet reigns. It is in the stillness of the green world that we hear the sounds that make for peace and growth. In the garden, too, we labor faithfully, as best we know how, in following rules that promise good results. Then at a certain time we must stand aside, consciously trusting to the source of life to do the rest. With hopeful eyes we watch and wait, while the mysterious unseen spirit brings life into plant and tree. When something goes wrong, how sublime is our cheerful garden philosophy, as smiling we say: "Just wait until we try next year!" And patiently we try again, and ever patiently, sometimes again and yet again. Our unwritten motto is: "If others can, then why not we?" Even the man who "contends that God is not" shows all this wondrous reliance in the unseen force within his garden.

With hands plunged into the cool earth we seem to bury in the magic soil all thoughts that jar till we almost feel ourselves a part of the garden plan; as much in harmony with it as the note of the bird, the soft splash of the fountain, the tints of the flowers and their perfumes. This idea is better expressed in four lines found inscribed on an old garden seat:

"The kiss of the sun for pardon, The song of the birds for mirth, One is nearer God's heart in a garden Than anywhere else on earth."

It is not a selfish life--the object in view is not a narrow one. How few would be content to create a beautiful garden if none could see! And our pleasure is not complete until others have shared its sweetness with us. The gardener is developing nature in the simplest and truest way, following the thought of the first great Architect and gladdening the hearts of men with the vision beautiful of the possibilities within plant life. In the flower garden the efforts are for upbuilding, for giving back some of the beauty intended in the Perfect Plan, too often defaced by man's heedlessness.

Dating back their beginning some two hundred years in certain Southern States, numerous gardens, beautiful with age, tell the story of the ardent garden lovers of earlier days, who had to send abroad for their green treasures which they planted and carefully tended, hopefully planning for the future. Many such gardens with their choice shrubs and trees still stand as green memorials to those long-ago people who had time and money for this luxury. Since then the hardships following war have brought sad neglect to the beautiful places--the number we can never guess--many of which, however, are now being aroused to fresh life by new owners who appreciate the charm and dignity of an ancient home.

Hidden away in some of the old plantations of the South, and scattered over the Eastern States, near Philadelphia, along the Hudson River, and in parts of Massachusetts, the best of the older gardens are found. Beautiful, too, while often beyond reach of the camera, are many of the more modern creations so skilfully and lovingly fashioned by men and women of later generations. It is impossible to do justice in photography to some of them when certain conditions prevent the camera from being placed at a range favorable to getting a view of the larger portions in one photograph. Sometimes they are composed of three or four connecting sections, each bringing a surprised delight to the visitor passing from one to the other, but such an arrangement cannot be satisfactorily portrayed in a picture.

One strange reason why some American gardens are not photographed for the public is that occasionally people are found who will not share their blessings with others less fortunate; who jealously keep in seclusion all the wealth of nature's sweetness contained in their garden plot.

After all, is not the delight which belongs to a garden but a bit of borrowed glory from the Creator of sunlight, and of the kingdom of flowers? If a garden is worthy of showing to our intimates, can we close it to the stranger who may need even more to breathe inspiration from its peace and loveliness? The foreign custom of opening the fine places to the public on stated days is one that we should freely emulate. And to those who may not come to the gardens, what a boon is photography, especially in color, placing in our very hands the beauty that we crave!

The views contained within this book show gardens that were planned, with but few exceptions, by their owners, earnestly laboring to express their sense of the beautiful in these their outdoor homes. And so great is the individuality evinced in most of them that there are hardly two gardens that resemble one another; for the differences in gardens are as many as the endless number of varying characters written in the faces of men. Both are stamped with the spirit behind them. In visiting gardens it is not difficult to distinguish between the ones fashioned by "love's labor" and those made by the practical gardener.

More and more we are getting away from the cold, stiff planting of Canna, Coleus, and Salvia. Few of us can tolerate the impression of newness and rigidity in the garden, and as Father Time cannot help us fast enough we try to emulate him by stamping his mark of mellowness in innumerable ways upon the youthful garden. Then Mother Earth is consulted as to her unrivalled way for the grouping of her flower family, and she shows us the close company they keep--hand in hand over the whole meadow--nothing stands quivering alone, grasses and plants blending to fill all spaces. Then above, in the rainbow, we learn the harmony for our color scheme, and unto no nation on earth need we apply for the latest theories dealing with these subjects for the beautifying of our gardens. The more of the nature scheme we bring into them the greater satisfaction will they give.

We should build the garden with a setting of fine trees grouped upon the outskirts, otherwise it will seem as incomplete as a portrait without a frame. Half of the charm attached to the beautiful old gardens of Europe lies in the richness of their backgrounds of stately hedges and trees.

If comparisons were to be made between such views as those shown in this book and the pictures of English gardens, for instance, the differences would not in every case be favorable to England, although it must be admitted that age has given a dignity and grandeur to many English gardens that could hardly be surpassed. Time, doubtless, will add this dignity to our gardens, but can we not feel that we have already equalled some of the smaller English gardens when we consider the poetical beauty found in most of these illustrations?

Unfortunately, except in a few localities, our climate does not encourage the perfect development of the choicest of the evergreen hedge-plants, and yet with time we can produce some moderately fine effects in hedges. We may not hope soon to rival the best of the foreign gardens that have been maturing through generations of continuous care. Favored not only by climate but by riches unknown to the early landowners of our States, the best of the old gardens across the sea stand for the combined dreams of the many minds which gradually evolved them, the loving handiwork of innumerable patient toilers who have successively ministered to them.

Just as there are gardens peculiar to other nations, Dutch, French, Italian, etc., might we not give serious consideration to evolving some day a type peculiarly American, inasmuch as it would embody the poetic and artistic sense of our country? Such a result might be attained even should we claim the privilege of our individual liberty, to plant, each one for the expression of his own soul, thus keeping our gardens distinctly variable and original in type, and so ultimately national.

II

CLIMATE IN AMERICA

Few subjects are more bewildering than that of climate in the United States, and its effect on gardens in different sections is an ever interesting study. Replying to the question as to which locality in the East might be said to have the longest continued flowering period, an expert in the Agricultural Department writes: "The question of plant life in relation to climate is a very large one and one about which it is hard to generalize without close study in the various parts of the country. Some little work along these lines is being attempted, but as yet we have been unable to make any report upon it."

Correspondence with gardeners in the various States has furnished the brief data given in connection with the following chapters, showing that the local conditions as affecting garden culture are much more encouraging in some places than in others.

Not only are there the matters of latitude and altitude to be considered, but often quite as important is the influence of the Gulf Stream in the Atlantic or of the Japan Current in the Pacific Ocean. Again, there is the moist climate by the sea, or the quality of soil, the periodic torrential rainfall of one section, and elsewhere the long months of drought.

Generally speaking, our country is, in most parts, a land of sunshine, with usually sufficient rain and moisture to benefit plant life, and while we grumble at our sudden changes in temperature, how few of us realize the blessing of an abundant sunshine pervading the "great outdoors" and incidentally the gardens!