Part 4

The water in which flowers are stood should be fresh and clean. If some time has elapsed before the flowers are placed in it, about an inch or so of the stems may be cut off with a sharp knife, so as to allow a layer of fresh cells to come in contact with the water. Some flowers last much longer than others in a cut state, and the period may be prolonged a little by putting a pinch of salt, or a little clean charcoal in the water at the same time.

BULBOUS PLANTS FOR COLD GREENHOUSES.

How often one hears complaints as to the lack of flowers during the coldest months of the year. And how often one sees, in almost empty greenhouses, bare shelves that could be made gay with blossom, and with but little labour or expense. This can be done easily enough by selecting early flowering bulbs, and having them "potted up" early in the autumn, so that they will have made plenty of roots by, say, Christmas time. The pots most generally useful are 5-inch ones (often called 48's). These should have some broken pieces put in the bottom for drainage, and over this a layer of moss or fibre to prevent the soil from choking it up later on. A compost made up of three parts of rich fibrous loam, one part of silver or river sand, and one part of leaf-soil, all well mixed, should be prepared. A handful or two is placed over the drainage, and one, two, three, or five bulbs, according to size, may then be placed on a level bottom. The pot is then filled to within about a quarter of an inch of the rim, the soil being firmly pressed down between the bulbs, the tops of which may be either level with the surface or beneath it. In any case, it is not necessary to bury bulbs that are going to have the protection of a greenhouse so deep as those planted in the open air, where they will have no protection from the weather.

The bulbs, having been potted, and labelled if necessary, say sometime in October or November, need not be taken into the greenhouse at once. It is better to keep them in the open air, covered with two or three inches of fine ashes or coco-nut fibre until the bulbs have made plenty of new roots in the soil, or they may be sheltered in a cold frame. Any time after this, as many pots as may be required are taken out of the ashes or fibre, the remains of which should be washed from the pots and shaken off the surface of the soil. If there is a slight warmth in the greenhouse, just enough to keep the frost out on cold nights, so much the better, but too much heat is unnecessary, unless one wishes to "force" bulbs into very early bloom. This, however, generally means exhaustion, if not death, to the bulbs so artificially treated.

There are many kinds of bulbous plants suitable for the decoration of cold greenhouses in winter and early spring in the way indicated, and the following may be regarded as a good selection:--Bulbocodiums, Chionodoxas, Crocuses (Spring), Erythroniums, Fritillarias (dwarf), Snowdrops, Hyacinths, Snowflakes, Grape Hyacinths, Dwarf Narcissi, Puschkinias, Scillas, Sternbergia Fischeriana, Bulbous Irises, Tecophilæa--all of which are described in their respective places in this work.

BULBOUS PLANTS FOR WINDOW BOXES.

PLATE 13. BRODIÆA UNIFLORA (51-52), CHIONODOXA SARDENSIS (53), ERYTHRONIUM DENS-CANIS (54-55)

When the Zonal Pelargoniums, Marguerites, Fuchsias, Lobelias, &c., have done their duty in the window boxes during the summer and autumn months, it is essential that something else must take their places for the winter and spring months, unless they are to be left bare. Dwarf shrubs, of course, like Aucubas, Golden Privet, Cupressus, Skimmias, &c., are much favoured, and rightly so. But in conjunction with them many kinds of bulbous plants may be used, and planted at the same time as the shrubs. Snowdrops and Crocuses are great favourites for the edges of boxes. Besides these, however, the beautiful blue-flowered Grape Hyacinths (Muscari), the Chionodoxas and Scilla sibirica, may be used in a similar way and with great effect, or as a carpet beneath the shrubs. If the latter are not placed too close together, space may be left for a few bulbs of Tulips and Daffodils to peep out between them.

Of course, window boxes filled entirely with bulbous plants would probably look much more artistic than those having a mixture of shrubs and bulbs. Combinations in miniature could be made in the same way as suggested for the open air beds on p. 41. Boxes planted with Polyanthuses, Primroses, Forget-me-Nots, Silene, White Arabis, Yellow Alyssum, Wallflowers, &c., as well as bulbs, would not look bare in autumn or winter, and would be very effective when in blossom in the spring time.

DESCRIPTIONS, CULTURE, PROPAGATION, &c., OF THE BEST BULBOUS PLANTS FOR THE OPEN AIR.

=ALLIUM.=--Although about 250 species of this liliaceous genus are known, only a dozen or so are usually met with in gardens--the limited number being probably due to the pungent and not altogether agreeable odour they emit when bruised or cut. In fact, the plants may be briefly described as more or less ornamental Onions, as they belong to the same family as this well-known esculent, and naturally possess a family likeness. The bulbs are tunicated, the leaves either flat as in the Leek, or roundish and hollow as in the ordinary Onion, while the 6-petalled starry flowers are borne in umbels on the top of the shoot that springs out of the bulb under the ground.

The kinds mentioned below flourish in ordinary good garden soil of a gritty nature, that has been deeply dug and well-manured. They are useful for the decoration of the flower border in bold patches, but are probably more natural in grass-land, where they can remain for several years undisturbed. The bulbs may be planted in early autumn, 3 or 4 inches deep--more or less according to the size of the bulbs, and will come into blossom from April and May, till July or August. As cut flowers, they are very ornamental, but unfortunately, they are not greatly used in this way owing to their odour, which some people find quite unbearable. Propagation is effected by means of offsets from the bulbs, or seeds. Two species--_A. Moly_, and _A. neapolitanum_--are often forced into early blossoms in the greenhouse, in the way mentioned at p. 46.

The following are the best kinds:--_Neapolitanum_, _Erdeli_ (see Plate 18, fig. 72), _karataviense_, _triquetrum_, _ursinum_, and _zebdanense_, all with white or whitish flowers; _acuminatum_, _hirtiflorum_, _Macnabianum_, _narcissiflorum_ (or _pedemontanum_), _Ostrowskianum_, _Schuberti_, and _Suworowi_, representing rose, magenta, crimson, lilac, and purple shades; the best yellow-flowered kinds are, _Moly_ (Plate 17, fig. 68), _flavum_, and _orientale_; while _coeruleum_ (or _azureum_) is the most attractive species with blue flowers. _A. acuminatum_ is the dwarfest of these, being only about a foot high, the others rarely exceeding 1-1/2 to 2 feet, except perhaps _hirtiflorum_ and _Suworowi_, which often are 3 feet high.

=AMARYLLIS Belladonna= (_Belladonna Lily_).--This charming member of the Narcissus family deserves more extensive cultivation than it enjoys at present. It is a native of South Africa, and has large bulbs--3 to 4 inches or more deep--with thickish, silky-woollen coats, and strap-shaped leaves, usually 12 to 18 inches long. About August and September, the sweet-scented funnel-shaped blossoms of a soft rosy colour (see Plate 31, fig. 111) are produced on top of a stout stalk, 12 to 18 inches high, after the foliage has withered. Some varieties are better than others, but the best of all is that which originated at Kew, and is remarkable for having three or four dozen rich rosy crimson flowers on a scape 2 to 3 feet high.

The Belladonna Lily can only be grown satisfactorily in the open air in the milder parts of the kingdom. The bulbs should be planted about 9 inches deep in a well-drained loamy soil containing plenty of sand and leaf-soil. Beneath a wall facing due south is generally a good position for the plants. In winter, cold rains should be kept off by placing a layer of leaves or litter over the dormant bulbs. The simplest way to increase the stock is to detach the offsets from the old bulbs whenever the latter are disturbed--say every fourth or fifth year.

_Note._--The gorgeous plants grown in greenhouses under the name of Amaryllis rightly belong to the genus Hippeastrum, and are too tender for open air culture in our climate.

PLATE 14. ENGLISH IRISES (56-59)

=ANTHOLYZA.=--The brown-coated corms, sword-like leaves, and the bright-coloured tubular flowers of these plants very much resemble those of the closely-related genus Gladiolus. Indeed, what suits the Gladiolus will suit the Antholyzas in the way of a well-drained loamy soil. A somewhat warmer and sunnier position is, however, necessary, as these South African plants have not been acclimatised by selection and hybridisation in the same way as the Gladiolus. The best-known kinds are _æthiopica_, with spikes of scarlet and greenish flowers; _caffra_, rich scarlet; _Cunonia_, scarlet and black; _fulgens_, rich coppery rose; and _paniculata_, with red, brown, and yellow blossoms, and apparently the hardiest of all. They are all best increased by offsets.

=BABIANA= (_Baboon Root_).--Charming plants of the Iris family, with fibrous-coated corms about an inch in diameter, stiffish, hairy, plaited leaves, and dense spikes of funnel-shaped flowers. The latter, in most cases, are sweetly scented and brilliantly coloured, and in a cut state, are exceedingly handsome for decorative work. Unfortunately the plants are not very hardy, and can only be grown in the open air in the very warmest and mildest parts of the kingdom with anything like success. In favourable localities the corms should be planted 3 or 4 inches deep, in mild weather, any time between September and November. The soil should be very light, loamy, and well-drained, and the position should be the warmest and sunniest in the garden. Plenty of sand or grit around the corms is an advantage, and a covering of leaves or litter will keep off cold winter rains. Babianas are very useful for cool greenhouse decoration, and may be easily grown in pots, only giving water when roots have developed, and the new leaves are beginning to show. (See p. 46).

The best kinds are _disticha_, pale blue; _plicata_, violet blue; _ringens_, scarlet; _stricta_, the three outer segments of which are white, the three inner lilac-blue with a dark blotch at the base. This is the best-known kind, and there are many forms of it, notably _angustifolia_, bright blue tinged with pink; and _rubro-cyanea_, brilliant blue and crimson. All increased by offsets.

=BESSERA elegans.=--A pretty liliaceous plant, 1-1/2 to 2 feet high, with slender rush-like leaves, and scarlet or scarlet and white bell-shaped blossoms. Being a native of Mexico it is rather tender, and can only be grown out of doors in the mildest parts of the British Isles in the same way as the Babianas. As a pot plant it may be grown in a cool greenhouse. Increased by offsets from the brown silky-coated corms.

=BLOOMERIA aurea.=--This is the best known species. It is a native of California and belongs to the Lily family. The small corms are covered with netted pale brown coats, from which spring long narrow leaves, and umbels of bright yellow starry flowers about June or July. _B. Clevelandi_ is another species with smaller yellow flowers. The corms of both kinds should be planted in warm sunny spots in well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil in the autumn, and a little protection with leaves or litter may be given in cold wet winters.

=BOBARTIA aurantiaca.=--This pretty member of the Iris family is also known under the name of _Homeria_. It has roundish corms, an inch or more in diameter, covered with pale brown shaggy fibrous coats. The orange-red or yellow blossoms appear in summer and last a long time. The plant is a native of South Africa, and can only be grown in the mildest parts of the kingdom in the same way as the Babianas, Ixias, &c., which see. Increased by offsets.

=BRAVOA geminiflora.=--A graceful Mexican plant of the Narcissus family, with roundish fibrous-coated corms over an inch in diameter, and narrow sword-like leaves 12 to 18 inches long. The bright red or scarlet tubular blossoms droop in pairs from stalks 1 to 2 feet high from July onwards. In the milder parts of the kingdom this plant may be grown easily in sheltered sunny spots in rich sandy loam and leaf-soil, protection being only needed in severe winters from cold heavy rains or hard frosts by means of leaves or litter. Increased by offsets in autumn or seeds sown in spring.

=BREVOORTIA Ida-Maia= (_Brodiæa coccinea_).--This beautiful Liliaceous plant is popularly known as the "Californian Fire Cracker." It has roundish corms an inch or so in diameter, with brown fibrous coats. The leaves are very narrow, while the tubular flowers are borne in loose umbels in June or July on top of slender wiry stalks 2 to 3 feet high. The shape and colour of the individual blossoms are shown on Plate 19, fig. 75. They are very attractive in bold masses, and are excellent for cutting purposes. In the garden it is essential to support the slender flower-stems with thin sticks to keep the blossoms from trailing in the dirt. During September and October is the best time to plant the corms 3 to 4 inches deep, in rich sandy loam, in warm sunny spots in the border or rock-garden, where they should be allowed to remain for three or four seasons before they need be disturbed. Increased by offsets and seeds.

PLATE 15. SPANISH IRISES (60-63)

=BRODIÆA.=--The plants belonging to this genus have practically the same characters as those of Brevoortia, the chief differences being that many (but not all) of the Brodiæas have six fertile stamens instead of three, and the perianth in many cases is more funnel or bell-shaped than cylindrical. The corms are about the same size with netted, brown, silky coats, but are quite distinct from those in the section formerly known under the names of _Milla_ and _Triteleia_. The cultural treatment is precisely the same as detailed under Brevoortia above. An idea as to the beauty of the blossoms of some of the kinds may be gained from a glance at Plates 13, 19, 20, and 24, in which _B. laxa_ (fig. 76), _B. ixioides_ (fig. 77) (also known as _Calliprora lutea_), _B. Bridgesi_ (fig. 91), _B. Howelli lilacina_ (fig. 80), and _B. uniflora_ (figs. 51 and 52) (the last named being remarkable for having flowers singly instead of in umbels), are respectively depicted. Other species well worth growing are _californica_, rosy-purple; _capitata_, lilac or violet, and its white variety _alba_; _congesta_, deep violet; _Douglasi_, bright blue; _gracilis_, bright yellow; _grandiflora_, violet-blue; _Hendersoni_, salmon-yellow striped with purple; _Howelli_, porcelain-white striped with blue; _hyacinthina_, purple, and its white variety _lactea_; _Leichtlini_, white; _multiflora_, pale blue; _Orcutti_, lilac; _peduncularis_, porcelain-white to rosy-purple; _Purdyi_, rosy-purple to lilac; _rosea_, rose-red to pinkish-purple; _Sellowiana_, yellow; and _stellaris_, reddish-purple to deep blue. To these may be added _B. volubilis_, remarkable for having twining stems often 12 feet long, and having 15 to 30 rose-coloured flowers in an umbel.

=BULBOCODIUM vernum.=--A charming Crocus-like plant of the Lily family, closely related to the Meadow Saffrons (Colchicum), as may be seen by comparing the method of lateral growth of the brown-coated corms--each an inch or more in diameter. It is a native of the Alps. In mild seasons it often produces its violet or rosy-purple funnel-shaped flowers in January, not more than 6 inches from the ground, and remains in blossom in company with Snowdrops, Leucojums, &c. The leaves appear afterwards and elaborate food for the production of next year's corms before they wither. A rich well-drained loam with a little sand and leaf-soil suits it very well, and the corms may be planted in September or October about 4 inches deep, in bold masses in the rock garden or grass-land, and left alone for a few years, after which there will be numerous offsets to increase the stock. As slugs are very fond of the young growths, they must be carefully looked for morning and evening, and a little soot or lime carefully spread round the plants may help to check them (see p. 142).

=CALOCHORTUS= (_Mariposa Lily_).--A very distinct group of Liliaceous plants with brown-coated bulbs, narrow leaves, and very showy and distinct-looking blossoms--some of which are shown in Plate 22, fig. 84, and also in Plate 20 of the companion volume "BEAUTIFUL GARDEN FLOWERS." Joined to the Mariposa Lilies proper are the "Star Tulips," formerly known under the name of _Cyclobothra_--well-known representatives of which are shown in the same Plate, figs. 85 and 86. They are quite distinct in the appearance of the flowers, but botanically they are considered to be identical in the important characters. Both groups are well worth growing in the milder parts of the kingdom in warm sunny parts of the garden. This is essential as most of them are natives of California, Oregon, Arizona, and parts of Mexico, where they have plenty of sunshine and are not subject to the cold drenching rains that often characterise the British winter. In colder districts where they would be unable to survive the ordinary winter, the plants may be brought to perfection in a cold frame so long as they are free from frost and heavy rains. The soil in which they appear to flourish best seems to be sharp sand, leaf-soil and road grit, well mixed together with a little loam added. The bed--in which the bulbs are to be planted 3 to 4 inches deep, from September to November, but not later--should be raised above the general level, the better to throw the water off in winter. If the beds or borders are facing south and slightly sloping, so much the better. A light covering with reeds or bracken is advisable during severe weather, but should be removed on all warm days, and altogether from February and March, as the young growths will then begin to push through the soil. After the flowering period--_i.e._, July and August--is over, and the foliage has withered, the bulbs may be either lifted and carefully stored in sand or dry earth until the planting season comes round again; or, better still, lights may be placed over them to keep the bulbs dry and allow them to ripen thoroughly and naturally. If the latter treatment is adopted the bulbs need not be disturbed for three or four years, and will give better blossom on the whole in consequence. It must be remembered that although the bulbs dislike moisture when dormant, they must have a sufficient supply during active growth, otherwise they may soon become parched and withered. The easiest way to increase the plants is by means of offsets. When seeds ripen they may be sown very thinly in pots or pans in spring, and the seedlings may remain for a couple of seasons before being transplanted. Sometimes "bulbils" (see p. 32) are produced on the stems, and may be sown in light sandy soil as if they were seeds. From seeds and bulbils it takes from three to six years to produce a flowering bulb.

There are now several kinds of Mariposa Lily in cultivation. Of these the varieties of the _venustus_ group are undoubtedly the handsomest. (See Plate 22, fig. 84.) They grow about 18 inches high, and have cup-shaped flowers 3 inches across, having three very large and three very small segments. The colour of the type is white, yellow at the base, deeply stained with crimson, and having a conspicuous blotch at the base. In the variety _alba_ the flowers are wholly white; _lilacinus_, deep lilac; _purpurascens_, lilac-purple; _citrinus_, lemon-yellow; _oculatus_, with rosy buds passing into white, with a deep blackish-purple blotch in the centre of a yellow base; and _Vesta_, flowers very large, white flushed with rose, and marked with brown and yellow at the base.

Other kinds are _albus_, with drooping pearly-white flowers (Plate 22, fig. 85); _apiculatus_, lemon-yellow; _Benthami_, bright yellow; _coeruleus_, lilac or creamy-white, densely bearded with blue hairs; _clavatus_, golden-yellow; _elegans_, white tinged with purple, but rich pink in the variety _amoenus_; _flavus_, yellow, drooping; _Goldyi_, old gold with hairy centre; _Howelli_, creamy-white; _Kennedyi_, orange-red; _lilacinus_, pink, purple, or lilac, a fine species; _luteus_, yellow or orange, with purple hairs; _Plummeræ_, large soft lilac flowers, with golden-yellow hairs and blotched with purple; _pulchellus_, orange-yellow, sweet-scented, drooping (see Plate 22, fig. 86); _Purdyi_, white, spotted with purple, and covered with long white hairs; _splendens_ pale lilac, with silky white hairs and deep purple blotches at base; and _Weedi_, yellow.

=CAMASSIA.=--Graceful-looking North American plants of the Lily family, with rather large ovoid bulbs, strap-shaped tapering leaves, and loose racemes of starry blossoms which usually appear from May to July, and are useful for decorations when cut. They flourish in ordinary good and well-drained garden soil in warm sheltered spots. The bulbs should be planted in September or October, and covered with about twice their own depth of soil. They may be left undisturbed for a few seasons, but in that case a mulching of well-decayed manure in autumn would be beneficial. New plants are most readily secured by offsets from the old bulbs. Seeds, however, are freely produced in most places and should be sown in cold frames as soon as ripe. (See p. 36).

PLATE 16. MADONNA LILY (64) FRITILLARIA IMPERIALIS, VARS. (65-66)

There are only a few species, the best being _C. esculenta_, the Quamash or Camass Root of the North American Indians. The blue flowers, each about 2 inches across, are borne on scapes 1-1/2 to 3 feet high, and look very handsome above the narrow arching leaves. _C. Cusicksi_, with porcelain-blue flowers (see Plate 18, fig. 70), grows 3 to 4 feet high. _C. Fraseri_, with very pale-blue flowers, is about 1-1/2 feet high; while _C. Leichtlini_ grows 3 to 4 feet high, and has large creamy-white blossoms, about 3 inches in diameter.

=CHIONODOXA Luciliæ= (_Glory of the Snow_).--This charming harbinger of spring is a native of Asia Minor, where it pushes its beautiful brilliant blue and white blossoms (see Plate 2, fig. 9) through the snow-clad mountains early in the year. It has ovoid bulbs about 1 to 2 inches deep, arching leaves, and each flower-stalk 6 to 10 inches high, carries from six to twenty blossoms in February, March, and April. There are several fine varieties, the best being _gigantea_ (or _grandiflora_), with very large flowers; _sardensis_, shown on Plate 13, fig. 53, has gentian-blue flowers. The variety _alba_ has pure-white flowers, and _Tmolusi_ and _Alleni_ are also good varieties. A hybrid between _C. Luciliæ_ and _Scilla bifolia_ is known as _Chiono-scilla_, but is not common. Other Chionodoxas are _C. cretica_, with white or pale-blue flowers very scantily produced; and _C. nana_, with white or lilac-tinted flowers.

Chionodoxas flourish in ordinary good garden soil, and are suitable for the rockery, flower-border, beneath deciduous trees in shrubberies, or in the grass. To be effective in any of these positions they should be planted in hundreds and thousands, and in grass-land may be mixed with the smaller-flowered kinds of Narcissus (_e.g._, _minimus_, _cyclamineus_, _triandrus_). In the latter case the bulbs may be left alone for years with advantage, as they never interfere with mowing operations.

Offsets are freely produced from the old bulbs, and are the easiest means of increasing the stock. Seeds may be sown when ripe, but they take a few years to produce flowering bulbs (see p. 34).