Part 1

PART FIRST Barbers' Manual PART SECOND Text Book on Taxidermy

By T. J. McConnaughay

PRICE, $1.25

Copyrighted and all rights reserved by author. Chicago, Ill., 1898.

Preface.

By way of explaining the dual character of this little book, we here indulge a few brief introductory remarks.

Part First is designed simply as a manual of instruction for barbers, and we hope it will, in a valuable measure, supply a long felt need. It will prove especially beneficial to the younger and less experienced members of our craft.

The best artisans and artists admit they owe much to the accumulated knowledge and experience of both their predecessors and their contemporaries. Indeed, to assert any claim to advanced knowledge and skill, without due acknowledgements for the help received from others would savor of an inexcusable egotism. The man who professes to be a self-made man is always notorious for worshiping his maker.

We should, of course, always put our own impress upon all our work. Our observations on the methods of others should supplement but not supplant our own originality and our own reason. A noted artist when asked how he mixed his paints to achieve such wonderful results, replied: “I mix them with brains.”

So must we use our own brains as well as the brains of others, if we would succeed in this day of rapid improvements and sharp competition.

The information given in this book is not guess work, but the result of long years of study and practice. Thirty-one years have I conducted a shop of my own. During these years every recipe here given has been thoroughly tested. We know they are all good.

Part Second is devoted to taxidermy, which for twenty-three years I have connected with my other shop work. I have preserved and sold hundreds of specimens, and this work has proven a source of much pleasure and profit, enabling me to turn many otherwise idle moments into money.

On this line I have not confined myself to taxidermic work alone, but have also connected the tanning of hides with the hair on, which I have manufactured into mats, rugs, etc.

Hence this little book, under a twofold title, practically includes three trades.

We offer it as a money saving and money making investment. The recipes and other information contained herein will enable any barber to make all his own preparations, and to manufacture them for sale. He may also connect taxidermy and tanning if it suit his pleasure and business.

Historic Sketch.

The word barber is derived from the Latin word “barba,” which means beard, and hence is applied to one whose occupation is to shave and trim beards and cut hair. The barber's craft is a very ancient one. The practice of shaving was common among the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans; and was even mentioned by the prophet Ezekiel, chapter v, 1st verse. Among the ancient Israelites the removal of the beard by shaving or plucking was a sign of mourning. It would seem that the origin of our trade was prehistoric.

In early times barbering was conjoined with surgery, and the barber also served the public in the capacity of surgeon. In France the barber-chirurgeons, or barber-surgeons, were separated from the perruquiers, or wig-makers, and were incorporated as a distinct body in the latter part of the 17th century. In England barbers were incorporated with special privileges in 1461, and were afterwards united to the society of surgeons, but were confined to the minor operations of blood letting and drawing teeth. In 1745 an act was passed, the preamble of which declared the trade of the barber and the profession of surgery are foreign to and independent of each other.

This act practically divorced surgery from the barber's chair. However, quite recently the surgeons of the Swedish navy were also barbers for the crew. In former times, not far remote, it was customary to keep a lute or a violin for the entertainment of patrons, which made the shop a favorite resort for idle persons. In China and some other oriental countries, barbers not only shave the face, but they also shave the whole or a part of the head.

BARBER'S SIGN.

Though barbering is now entirely separated from surgery, yet a monument of their former union may be still seen in the striped pole and basin so often projecting from the front of barber shops.

The fillet, or spiral strip around the pole symbolizes the winding of a ribbon round the arm previous to letting blood, and its red color symbolizes the blood. The basin, yet sometimes seen at the base, represents a vessel prepared to catch the blood.

Barber's poles in this country are tri-colored. The white symbolizes the arm, the red represents the shed blood, while Americans have added the blue to complete our national colors.

Recipes, Formulas, Etc.

GERMAN HAIR DYE.

The process here given comprehends a double formula, and to insure satisfactory results, the directions subjoined should be carefully followed.

No. 1.

Nitrate of Silver 3 drachms Stronger Water of Ammonia ½ ounce Distilled or Rain Water ½ ounce

No 2.

Pyrogallic Acid 3 drachms Alcohol ½ ounce Distilled or Rain Water 6 ounces

DIRECTIONS.—Formula No. 1, and formula No. 2, should each be put up in a separate bottle.

In compounding, each of the first two ingredients should be combined and reduced to a solution and the water then added.

Before using these preparations the beard or hair should first be thoroughly washed and dried.

Then apply No. 1 with the fingers, and when partly dried apply No. 2 with a tooth brush and a comb, being careful to get the dye down to the skin. If convenient let the party go out into the open air for an hour. Otherwise the hair should be thoroughly dried with a fan, and washed with soap and soft water. This formula was brought from Germany by a St. Louis barber and sold to the author in 1869. Properly put up it is not only first-class, but I have never found any other preparation equal to it.

BROWN HAIR DYE.

Take four pounds of green walnut hulls. Put them in 1½ gallons soft water and boil down to three pints. Strain off through cloth until clear of sediment. To one quart of this add one quart of alcohol, and 3 ounces of glycerine. Use as other restorers, once a day until the desired shade is obtained. The hulls should be gathered in August.

QUININE HAIR TONIC AND SEA FOAM.

The strong point in favor of this preparation as a sea-foam is that it acts at the same time as a tonic for the hair.

FORMULA.

Alcohol 1 pint Glycerine ½ ounce Tincture of Cantharides ½ ounce Aqua Ammonia ½ ounce Sulphate of Quinine 30 grains Oil of Cloves 1 drachm Rock salt (or table salt) ¼ ounce Distilled or rain water 1 pint

DIRECTIONS.—When using as a sea-foam, wet the hair and rub briskly with finger ends until the foam has disappeared. Then take a towel and rub partly dry.

When using as a dandruff cure, sea-foam twice a week, dampen the hair twice a day for two weeks, after which use once a week as a sea-foam. This will keep the scalp in fine condition.

After you have tried it you will use no other.

CREAM FOR CHAPPED HANDS AND FACE.

This recipe was given me by a druggist whom I have known for years. Its reliable and competent source is a sufficient guarantee:

FORMULA.

Quince seed ¼ ounce Distilled extract witch hazel 1 pint Glycerine ¼ pint Alcohol ¼ pint Powdered Boracic Acid 160 grains Carbolic Acid 32 drops Perfume to suit.

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING.—First put quince seed in witch hazel and let stand twenty-four hours. Then strain through cheese cloth and add the other ingredients. I know this to be good for the face after shaving.

PYTHIAN CREAM.

This is another preparation for the face and hands.

FORMULA.

Gum Tragacanth (in flake) ½ ounce Glycerine 4 ounces Distilled or rain water ½ gallon

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING.—Put gum tragacanth in water and let stand till thoroughly dissolved, and strain through a cheese cloth. Then add the glycerine and a sufficient amount of Pythian bouquet to perfume. Color pink with powdered carmine. It should be about the consistency of cream. If too thick add more water. There should be a half-gallon water to the four ounces of glycerine when finished.

BAY CREAM.

The only difference between this and Pythian Cream is in the perfume. Some like the bay rum better.

DIRECTIONS.—Use the formula of the preceding and then add perfume with the genuine oil of bay.

COLD CREAM.

The only difference between this and the two preceding creams is that instead of perfume a compound of alcohol and menthol is used.

DIRECTIONS.—Use the same body as for Pythian Cream, and then add alcohol and menthol as follows:

Put 6 drachms of menthol crystals into an ounce of alcohol. When the menthol is thoroughly dissolved add this combination to ½ gallon of the cream. The presence of the menthol gives this preparation a very pleasant cooling effect. Hence it is well named. This cream may, of course, be perfumed if desirable.

Instead of these face creams, some customers will prefer the pure bay rum, while perhaps many will prefer witch hazel. These can, of course, be obtained from barber supply houses or from drug stores; the witch hazel may be improved by adding to it a good cologne. Try two parts witch hazel to one part cologne.

BAY RUM.

No. 1.

Bay Oil ½ ounce Oil of Pimento ¼ ounce Alcohol 3 pints Water 3 pints

No. 2.

Magnesium ¼ pound Oil of Bay ¼ pound

Mash them well together and put them in a filter and pour in two quarts of water. Let it filter slowly, and then add 2 quarts Alcohol.

IMITATION OF BAY RUM.

No. 3.

Oil of Bay 3 drachms Oil Pimento ½ drachm Water 1½ quarts Acetic Ether 1½ ounces Alcohol 2 quarts

Mix and let stand 3 days, then filter.

CAMPHOR ICE.

Oil of Sweet Almonds 2½ ounces White Wax 2½ ounces Spermaceti 3½ ounces Gum Camphor ¾ ounces

Mix together, melt and pour off in small salve boxes.

MENTHOL SALVE.

Mutton Tallow 1 ounce Lard 1 ounce Menthol (in crystals) 3 drachms

Melt together and pour off in salve boxes.

Both the Camphor Ice and the Menthol salve are good for tender faces.

SILVER GLOSS SHAMPOO.

This is an economic and very satisfactory preparation.

FORMULA.

White Castile Soap (the very best) 1 pound Refined Carbonate of Potash ¾ pound Distilled or rain water 1 gallon Table Salt ½ ounce

Refined Carbonate of Potash is also called Pure Salts of Tartar. I have found the English brands preferable.

DIRECTIONS.—Shave the soap fine and put into the water (as per above formula), which should be contained in a porcelain vessel.

Let it boil until soap is thoroughly dissolved and strain off into another vessel, and then add the pure salts of tartar while still hot. Add the salt and enough more boiling water to replace the amount which has boiled away, and continue to stir until it becomes only luke warm; then add a few drops of the oil of cloves (or some other perfume), if desirable. Finally pour off in small jelly jars and set away for use. 1 gallon made in this way will make 5 gallons of ordinary shampoo, by simply adding 4 gallons more of water. This quantity should not cost over fifty cents. A pound of the refined carbonate of potash costs twenty cents, and a pound of castile soap only fifteen cents, and the perfume will cost less than the remainder of 50 cents.

One teaspoonful is enough to clean any ordinary suit of hair.

In cleaning ladies' hair it is well to add a little ethylic ether, commonly called sulphuric ether. Never use hard water. If necessary save up enough rain water. I give elsewhere directions for making shampooing outfit, which may also be conveniently used for shower baths in shops and houses where there is no connection with water works. Water to be used for shampooing should always be warm.

EGG SHAMPOO.

This favorite preparation should be used immediately after mixing.

Take 1 fresh egg, 1 teaspoonful of silver gloss shampoo, and ¼ teaspoonful of powdered borax. Mix together with an egg beater, and then use as other shampoos.

A CHEAP SEA FOAM.

Take 2 ounces of the silver gloss shampoo, 2 ounces alcohol, 1 ounce glycerine and 1 pint water; shake well together and perfume to suit your fancy.

The shampoo or sea-foam can be colored a nice yellow by making a tea of saffron and water, adding enough after straining it to get the desired color. Powdered carmine can also be used to color a red or pink color.

BRILLIANTINE.

Take 1 ounce of good glycerine, ¼ ounce of rose geranium and 1 ounce water. Mix. This preparation is a good one, and can be made very cheap by using a less amount of the perfume. It never separates, and is good as long as there is a drop of it left.

ENGRAVING FLUIDS.

We here give a formula for making an etching fluid, to be used in marking razors, shears and other steel tools.

FORMULA.

Bluestone 1 ounce Table Salt 1 ounce Water 6 ounces

DIRECTIONS.—Cover blade or plate with soap or varnish, and then with etching needle or common pencil write the name or letters desired, being careful to score or scratch through to the metal. Then fill the traced lines with the fluid and let it remain five minutes. The fluid will corrode the metal in the lines thus laid bare. Therefore when the covering and acid are washed off the lettering will remain.

Be careful to wash promptly and dry thoroughly.

BLACK HEADS.

What are known as black heads are generally found in the skin of people who are addicted to the use of much hog meat. Such people are also as a rule, rather careless, to say the least, about bathing their faces. A hint to the wise will be sufficient. Let them not be afraid a rough towel will scratch them. I give below a recipe highly recommended.

FORMULA.

Alcohol 4 ounces Boracic Acid 2 drachms Distilled or rain water 1½ ounces

Apply this three times per day after first having thoroughly washed the face and rubbing dry with a coarse towel. Considerable benefit will, at least, be derived from a faithful application of the above.

HAIR BLEACHING.

First clean the hair with the Silver Gloss shampoo, and when dry apply peroxide of hydrogen until damp. When dry, again repeat the application, and continue to repeat it until nearly as light as desired.

The hair will continue to bleach a little lighter for about three days, and hence it is necessary to discontinue the application when the hair is a shade darker than desired.

WHITENING FOR THE FACE.

Put 1 ounce of the oxide of zinc into a plate and pour over it 3 ounces of soft water. Mash zinc with a spoon until it is all dissolved. Pour the solution into a pint bottle and fill up with witch hazel. When the weather is cold, pure soft water may be used instead of the witch hazel; but the preparation would sour in warm weather. Apply with a soft cloth.

BARBERS' ITCH.

Fear of this disease causes many men to shave themselves, and this class would otherwise be among the very best customers.

When these men observe how careless the average barber is with his towels, mugs, tools, etc., they become disgusted and purchase a shaving outfit and quit the barbers' chair, except when they want a hair-cut.

I believe every barber should know how to treat this disease. Hence I will make a few suggestions as to its causation and treatment.

Scabies, or itch, in its various forms is a disease caused by the irritation produced from the presence in the skin of what is called the itch mite and the ova of the same. The cure involves the destruction of these parasites. Get a doctor, if possible, to prescribe; if no doctor can be got who understands it, I would try the following: An ointment made from the flour of sulphur and lard or sulphur and vaseline, is about the best remedy known. Rub in well at night and wash off in morning. Or take citron ointment 1 ounce and mutton tallow 1 ounce. Melt together and stir till cool. This I have found one of the best salves for all skin diseases I have ever tried. Apply twice a day, but use with care since it contains mercury.

HAIR OILS AND HAIR DRESSINGS.

While oiling the hair is a thing of the past, we might indulge a few remarks as a matter of history. Thirty years ago almost every customer used oil on his hair, and every barber was expected to know how to mix his own oils. A favorite preparation was made as follows: 1 pint of alcohol and 1½ pints of castor-oil were shaken together, and then perfumed with citronella or bergamot.

Another favorite was made of raccoon oil and lard mixed half and half, and perfumed with the oil of cloves.

Some used the coon oil straight; others used the oil of birds, geese, chickens or ducks, etc. Bear oil was considered a great oil for the hair as well as for many other purposes. My own favorite among all the home made preparations was made from beef marrow. The marrow was tried out and a little salt was added. The oil was then perfumed with bergamot.

POMADES.

In selecting material for pomade, have a butcher get you some fine leaf lard and some of the finest suet, which should be taken from young animals. Render out separately in porcelain vessels and strain off.

DIRECTIONS.—Take lard 1 pound, tallow 1 pound; mix them and heat gently, and cook for one hour over a slow fire; remove and let stand a few minutes to settle; now pour off carefully. When almost cold add some suitable perfume, say oil of bergamot 4 drachms, oil of lemon 3 drachms, oil of cassia 2 drachms, oil of nutmeg 75 drops. Mix thoroughly with the pomade and pour into small jars.

STICK POMADES.

Take of the prepared tallow 1 pound, pure, clean bees wax 3 ounces, gum benzoin, in a coarse powder, 1¼ drachms. Melt together with a slow heat, mixing all the while. When partly cooled add some suitable perfume. Pour it off in moulds and when cold take out and wrap in tin foil, then put on a nice label as outer covering.

To make the above into a coloring pomade, take 3 pounds of the prepared lard and tallow, before being perfumed; add to it 2 pounds of fresh walnut hulls, cut up fine; put into a porcelain vessel and heat gently for four hours. Take off and strain, and proceed as in making the black pomade. This will gradually color the hair or beard to a nice brown by being used daily until the desired shade is obtained.

HOW TO STOP BLOOD.

Every barber should have at hand a preparation for stopping blood. The best of barbers are liable to bring blood from rough or tender faces. An astringent pencil, which is very good and very handy, may be obtained from the barber supply houses in the cities at a cost of only 10 cents each. However, I prefer Monsell's Powdered Iron which may be obtained from any drug store. The only objection to it is, it is liable to discolor the skin. However, by being careful to put on only a small amount, it may easily be washed off when the blood has ceased to ooze.

If a small bump has been cut off or a shallow cut made in the smooth skin, it will generally suffice to cover it with a thick lather and let it remain until the shaving is completed.

Alum is also used but is too slow in its action.

HAIR RESTORERS.

I could give a formula that would make the hair fall out, but thus far I have not been able to find a preparation that will produce a new growth of hair on bald heads. As a preventative treatment I might suggest as follows:

Boil burdock root in soft water until strong, and then add to one pint of it, a half pint of alcohol, a teaspoonful of salt, and 1 ounce of glycerine. This used once a day will prevent the hair from falling out. Or make a strong decoction of black tea or sage and mix with the alcohol, salt, and glycerine as above and use as above.

The basis of most hair tonics is the tincture of cantharides, quinine, ammonia, camphor, and salt. A solution of borax in camphor water is used by some as a stimulant for the scalp. I have a friend who is experimenting on a new line with very encouraging prospects of successfully producing hair on bald heads. If any party interested will address me a few months hence, I may be able to advise them how to reproduce hair on bald heads.

GLASS HONES.

A glass hone is easily made, and no barber should be without one. Procure a piece of heavy plate glass and have a glass cutter cut it into pieces 3×8 inches in dimensions. Take the gloss off the face and also around the edges on a grindstone, and then finish by rubbing the face of the hone with pumice-stone kept wet with water. Continue this rubbing until the gloss is entirely removed and the hone is smooth. Before honing take a rubber, such as is used on a water hone, and, after wetting hone rub until you have a sort of lather. Hone on this as you would on any other hone. You will find it excellent for smoothing shears after grinding, or a razor after having been over honed.

MUGS, BRUSHES AND SOAPS.

The mug should be large and heavy and the brush used to make the lather should also be large and first-class in every particular. In regard to brushes, I would suggest that it pays to buy the very best.

A poor brush that is continually shedding hairs is very annoying to the customer, and it hinders the barber. I prefer the rubber ferruled brush, but be sure to get the genuine.

In regard to soap I must admit that I am partial to the J. B. Williams barber soap. However, there are other brands that give good satisfaction. There are no soaps too good. Hence get the best.

FACE POWDERS.

There is nothing much better than cake magnesia, but it should only be used to dry the face after shaving. I have given a liquid whiting which is much used by ladies. I have often used it on men to whiten the skin. See whitening for the face.

SHOWER BATH AND SHAMPOO CAN.