Part 6

While the Mackinaw hat had previously found favor with a few prominent retailers, it was not until the year 1868 that Mr. W. T. Brigham, then of the firm of Wm. R. Cole & Co., observing the merits of the article, concluded to undertake its introduction to the trade, to whom it was generally quite unknown. Among those who had used profitably the Mackinaw for their retail trade were R. Q. Taylor, of Baltimore, Charles Oakford, W. F. Warburton and Louis Blaylock, of Philadelphia. Though it was an article of domestic production, the beauty and commendable qualities of the Mackinaw were indeed a surprising revelation to the trade at large. Each year added to the popularity of the Mackinaw, until it became the acceptable American straw hat, without which no first-class retailer could consider his stock complete. While the great demand existed, Baltimore continued to supply the larger proportion of all the Mackinaw hats sold, and taking advantage of the reputation thus gained for such goods, her manufacturers produced other kinds of straw hats, and by the exercise of proper care and attention acquired such skill as to secure for the straw goods products of Baltimore the worthy reputation of being the best made in the United States, consequently and beyond contradiction the best in the world.

In the earliest days of straw hat making in Baltimore, at the time when the Mackinaw was being introduced, the sewing of straw hats by machine was a new invention, and practically a close monopoly controlled by a strong combination of wealthy straw goods manufacturers of the North, who, jointly as a stock company, prevented the sale of the straw sewing machines outside their own circle. Fortunately for the success of the new undertaking in Baltimore, the good qualities of the Mackinaw hat were more satisfactorily retained by hand sewing, rendering machines in their manufacture a useless requirement.

Thus an advantage was gained in supplying a hand-sewed hat, embodying such points of perfection in style and finish as to quite surprise those not familiar with the manufacture of such goods. The "Mackinaw" of Baltimore make continued to grow in popular favor until it had secured a greater distribution than was ever before attained by any other article of straw hat, making a remarkable record for tenacity, by holding for upwards of fifteen successive years, popularity as the leading article of summer headwear.

Baltimore continued to enlarge and increase her straw hat factories and improve their products, so that now in this industry she stands in the proud position of being the leading city in the United States in the production of the best class of straw hats.

This, in brief, is a history of another branch of the hat business, which attained large proportions, supplementing the one which, having gained a degree of importance in the manufacturing history of the city, was by force of circumstances reduced to comparative insignificance.

The growth of the straw hat business of Baltimore may be looked upon as somewhat phenomenal. The first introduction of the Mackinaw hat by William R. Cole & Co., in 1867, may be taken as the beginning of straw goods manufacturing, and with but a single manufacturing firm existing in 1875, its development and increase dates from that time. It is doubtful if in 1875 the total value of manufactured straw goods produced in Baltimore reached the sum of $75,000, while in the face of a steady and constant decline in values--the result of labor-saving machines, together with reduced cost of raw material--an increase in production of twenty-fold is an accomplishment of less than fifteen years. This success cannot be attributed to any local advantages, but is due entirely to the energy, enterprise and business qualifications of those engaged in the business, qualifications which have accomplished the result of giving valuable assistance in the city's advancement as an important manufacturing centre. It has also, by the recognized merits of its products, lent a worthy influence throughout the whole United States in sustaining the excellent reputation long enjoyed by Baltimore for the good quality and reliability of its manufactured goods.

HISTORY OF THE MACKINAW HAT.

No. 15.

A result of the remarkable popularity of the Mackinaw straw hat was, that Baltimore came rapidly forward as a straw goods manufacturing place, becoming important as a center in that particular branch of business; therefore a history of the article which contributed so largely to the development of this industry is likely to prove both interesting and instructive.

"Mackinaw," as a trade term or name, does not, as might be supposed, indicate the region from whence the articles comes, but undoubtedly received its christening from some one of the few retailers who early used these goods, in order to create a distinction from a similar, but much inferior article, then termed the "Canada" hat. While both the "Mackinaw" and the "Canada" are made of wheat straw, the difference between the two, as the product of one country and of nearly the same latitude, is a great surprise. The wheat of the eastern part of Canada produces a straw dark in color, harsh in texture, and of little use for making a hat, while that grown in the western part of the same country is clear and white in color, possessing a brilliant enamel which imparts the beauty that rendered the Mackinaw so famous as an article of fashion.

The Mackinaw must be considered a local rather than a national production, coming as it does from a region comprised within a small radius around the city of Detroit, part of which is Canadian territory and part within the borders of the United States; for while considerable straw from which the plait is made is raised and plaited within the limits of the State of Michigan, by far the largest proportion, as also the best quality, is the product of the Canadian territory. Nature seems to have provided a small community with unusual advantages, for within a limited territory has been produced all the large quantity of straw plait required to supply the popular demand that for many years existed for Mackinaw hats, and all efforts elsewhere to produce material combining the peculiarities of this straw, from which these hats were made, invariably failed.

The claim of the Mackinaw to antiquity and long use is perhaps as strong as that of other plaits with which the trade has become familiar, for no doubt the natives of the country made use of these hats as a head-covering long before they became an article of trade.

The Mackinaw was for many years after its first introduction sold under the designation of the "Canada" hat, the name given to a similar but comparatively degraded article produced in Lower, or Eastern Canada; and the title Mackinaw was first applied by the late Mr. Charles Oakford, of Philadelphia, or by Mr. R. Q. Taylor, of Baltimore, each of whom were among the first to make it a fashionable hat.

The makers of these goods are wholly the poor, ignorant half-breeds, who spring from the Canadian French and the Indian. Finding that hats, as well as the skins of the animals they trapped, could be traded for, the family talent was brought into use to produce something that might contribute to their meagre subsistence. So during the winter season, while the men hunted the muskrat, the Indian women and children plaited straw and made hats, which, on the opening of spring, were carried with the skins obtained by the hunters, to the towns, where they were exchanged for food, drink, clothing and ammunition.

To the advantages of soil and climate is attributed that purity of color, brilliancy of enamel, toughness of fibre and elasticity of texture which are recommendations of the Mackinaw. Added to these natural qualities was the advantage of a peculiar treatment given to the straw by the natives, who employed a whitening or bleaching process without the use of chemicals, giving increased beauty to the article.

During the prosperity of Mackinaw straw plaiting, a prominent character among the half-breeds was one Madame Lousseux, a sturdy, aged matron, with twelve hearty daughters, who, inheriting their mother's prolific nature, were in turn each the proprietress of a family of a dozen boys and girls. They all appeared to inherit the old lady's natural ability and wonderful expertness, and surpassed all competitors in the plaiting of the straw. The choicest products in braid and hats came from the Lousseux family.

In 1834, and for many years after, these goods were sold and used only as ordinary harvest hats. It now seems surprising that an article possessing such attractive merits should have occupied a secondary position and been so long in establishing the reputation it finally secured. The first person, as far as discovered, who used this article for retail purposes as a genteel and fashionable hat, was Henry Griswold in the year 1845, who did business in the then little and obscure town of Racine, Wisconsin. The Raciners must have been people of an appreciative and refined taste, as it appears that Mr. Griswold sold the hat for several seasons to his own advantage.

Prior to 1846 these goods were sold in New York by Leland, Mellen & Co., at that time the largest wholesale hat firm in the country. Mr. Mellen retired from business in 1851. In reply to a personal inquiry of the writer in the year 1874, Mr. Mellen wrote from Framingham, Mass., as follows:

"The Canada straw hat from the region of Detroit was sold by our firm as early as 1845. After being blocked and trimmed, they were sold as an ordinary staple hat. We sold a few to John H. Genin, W. H. Beebe & Co., and Charles Knox, then the leading retail hatters of Broadway. I think, however, they were sold by them only as a fishing or harvest hat. We continued to receive these goods from Detroit for several seasons, until an article from Lower Canada, of inferior quality and less price, made its appearance, and stopped the sale, as far as we were concerned."

The exact date of the appearance of the Mackinaw in Philadelphia cannot be accurately determined, but it must have been as early as 1847. Messrs. Beebe, Coster & Co., a prominent retail firm in Philadelphia, in 1849, sold the tapering crown, wide brim "Canada straw hat." From about 1855 to 1860 the Mackinaw became so very popular in the Quaker City that it was recognized as a leading article. The prominent retailers then using it were Charles Oakford, W. F. Warburton, Louis Blaylock, and Sullender & Pascall; each of these firms themselves finished the straw hats, taking them as they were sewed by the natives, which was with a taper crown and wide brim, making little pretence to any variety in style or proportion. Messrs. Sullender & Pascall made an advanced step and undertook one season to sell the Mackinaw to the exclusion of all other straw hats, preparing them in various shapes and for the first time adapting them to the requirements and tastes of a "nobby" trade.

In 1847 William Ketchem of Buffalo, E. B. Wickes of Syracuse, and John Heywood & Sons of Rochester sold these hats. In 1848 L. Benedict & Co., prominent retailers of Cleveland, handled the goods. This firm was followed next season by Messrs. R. & N. Dockstadter, then a very prominent concern in the same place. In 1849 they were sold in Sandusky by C. C. Keech.

The Mackinaw during these periods must have been introduced and sold in other places, but it had not secured its recognition as an article worthy of being placed on a level with foreign productions, which were then considered the desirable and suitable straw hat for genteel wear. It was probably not until after the year 1855 that the article received its title of "Mackinaw," and not until then did it secure its well merited, dignified position.

By far the largest retailer of the Mackinaw hat in this country, and the one to whom belongs the greatest credit in popularizing it, is Mr. R. Q. Taylor, of Baltimore. He introduced the hat to his customers as far back as 1850, and for _thirty_ consecutive seasons sold it without any apparent diminution of popularity. For many years Mr. Taylor sold the Mackinaw to the exclusion of all other straw hats. At one time so identified did the Mackinaw become with the people of this city, that it was said a Baltimorean might be recognized anywhere by the straw hat he wore. Mr. Taylor asserts that in the years 1872 and 1873 he retailed from his own counter, in the two seasons, upwards of 9000 hats. The reputation of the Mackinaw has been admirably sustained by Mr. Taylor, whose firm is still engaged in their manufacture, with a constant demand for them. Probably no other straw hat ever introduced to the American public can show such a continued and extended sale. In 1868 Messrs. Wm. R. Cole & Co., predecessors of the present firm of Brigham, Hopkins & Co., commenced to produce these goods for the general trade, and it is to their efforts that much of the widespread popularity of the Mackinaw is due. They first tried these hats with their own local trade, and finding them eminently successful, ventured to offer them in New York, meeting with much encouragement. From a small commencement their trade in these goods continued to increase until a large and well established business was secured, continuing to grow in volume and extent, and becoming the precursor of an industry that places Baltimore in a leading position as a manufacturing place for straw goods.

MODERN IMPROVEMENTS.

No. 16.

In the rank of those whose successful undertakings have contributed towards the restoration to Baltimore of a lost industry, and placing it upon such a foundation as to have it recognized as one of importance, no firm stands more prominent or has done more towards its accomplishment than that of Brigham, Hopkins & Co. The straw hat business inaugurated by this firm's immediate predecessors, and encouraged by their own efforts, has grown in volume and strength until Baltimore is now designated in trade parlance "the straw hat city," rightfully claiming the honor of surpassing in this class of her manufactured products the efforts of all rivals of this or of any other country.

Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins & Co., while possessing a large business, have the pleasure of conducting it in a spacious building, whose architectural design is one of the handsomest of its kind in the country, and whose conveniences for the successful prosecution of their business cannot be excelled. A business coming from one of its pioneers through a direct succession of firms gives to Brigham, Hopkins & Co. a natural pride in such an inheritance, and brings also a pleasure in being able to trace its progress from its origin, showing how this branch of manufacture was at an early day brought to an admirable condition of prosperity, afterwards to pass through a period of almost total decay, then again to attain a development that entitles it to rank with any of the successful and prominent industries of the city.

It is a pleasant reflection as well as a happy coincidence that the restoration of a forsaken industry, once a vital element in the city's life and activity, is greatly due to the labors of the firm who, in this branch, connect the past with the present, the old with the new.

The enterprising business traits manifested by Runyon Harris, in erecting, in the year 1814, a large hat factory in this city, seemed to have prompted his various successors to a spirit of emulation, enabling them to preserve the legacy bequeathed them, and to perpetuate that reputation for meritorious products that was so early earned in the factory of Mr. Harris.

Following the erection of the factory by Mr. Harris came the firm of Aaron Clap & Co., who purchased the property and commenced in 1817 the manufacture of hats, and a remarkable fact--one encouraging an innate pride in their successors--is that during three-quarters of a century all of the firms inheriting a title of descent from that of Aaron Clap & Co. have passed in safety through every financial convulsion of the country, and have promptly met every pecuniary obligation incurred.

Although during the former period of prosperity in the hat business of Baltimore, felt hats only were manufactured, which business was completely reduced by the unfortunate conditions existing at the time of the Civil War; its revival came through the establishing of a different branch, that of the manufacture of straw hats; and while Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins & Co. have lately entered extensively into the manufacture of silk and felt hats also, it is the purpose of this article to dwell more particularly upon facts relating to the straw hat branch that has contributed so largely in bringing Baltimore once again forward as a leading hat manufacturing city.

Prior to 1860 Messrs. Wm. P. Cole & Son, then manufacturers and jobbers, became especially interested in the straw goods branch of their business. Being at that time manufacturers of the best class of felt hats, the straw goods sold by them were all made in the factories of the North. Machines for sewing the straw braid were not then in use, and much of the straw products of foreign countries came ready sewed in shapes that were very irregular in proportions and sizes. The looseness of the stitches in sewing rendered the use of glue a necessity in the manufacture of the hats, producing an article of headwear that gave but little comfort. Suggestions for improvements were given the manufacturers, who adopted them with advantage to themselves. The first suggestion made by the Baltimore firm was an improvement in the appearance of the hat by trimming it with wider bands. At that time the use of bands about 14 lines wide was prevalent, and the adoption of 23-line bands was looked upon as a very radical departure. The substitution of leather sweats for those of oil muslin was also first undertaken by the Baltimore firm; following which, the most important improvement ever gained in the production of straw goods was conceived and executed in this city, which was the abandonment of the heavy glue-sizing and the manufacture of the comfortable "flexible finish" straw hat, an accomplishment secured by careful attention to the proper sewing of the goods aided by hand finish.

For several years Wm. P. Cole & Son and their successors had straw hats of their own designing made and finished at the North, continuing to suggest improvements which were made at their command, and the privilege of retaining which for their own trade was for the time extended to them by the manufacturers, from which they gained such advantages as would arise from having goods superior to and differing from the general class sold by others.

It was in the year 1875, upon the dissolution of the firm of Cole, Brigham & Co., that Mr. W. T. Brigham and Mr. R. D. Hopkins, uniting as the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, became straw hat manufacturers. The Mackinaw straw hat had at this time gained well in popularity; the natural firmness and flexibility of the Mackinaw were merits particularly acceptable to the trade, and the new firm made a careful study of embodying as far as possible in the manufacture of all their straw hats, those essential points possessed by the Mackinaw. So successful were their efforts that, by the exercise of thorough watchfulness, they continued to improve, until they secured for their products a celebrity that gave the firm the foremost position in the trade.

Following the onward movement of the straw hat business in Baltimore since its first introduction (less than twenty years ago), it is interesting to watch its constant and steady growth, and to observe the advance that has been accomplished. Even before Messrs. Brigham & Hopkins entered upon the business, a great improvement in the straw goods had already been made through the favorable impetus imparted by their predecessors. Straw hats which from a lack of style and comfort had heretofore played a secondary part in the conditions of man's costume, were so much improved in style and finish as to be accepted as a desirable article of dress, thus an increased demand was created for them.

To still further improve the straw hat, and as near as possible secure perfection, was the aim of the Baltimore manufacturers.

Entering the field with the commendable object of producing a class of goods that should be recognized as the best, Messrs. Brigham & Hopkins, abandoning traditional ways, commenced their work upon a thoroughly independent basis; copying after none, but relying upon their own ingenuity; striving to improve upon every last effort, observing and studying the wants and needs of their customers, they continued to put forth a class of goods bearing an undoubted stamp of originality, which, being supplemented by excellent workmanship and the use of good materials, resulted in securing a large patronage, and brought to them a constantly increasing trade. In this way did the firm secure a recognized position at the head of the straw hat industry of the country, and gained for their products a reputation for excellence in style and finish that is widespread over the whole country. American manufacturers had a long and tedious struggle in their efforts to overcome the prejudices of the people existing in favor of foreign productions, but steady endeavors to win the approval of Americans for American made hats have scored a genuine success, and the American gentleman of to-day may take a just pride in wearing a straw hat of Baltimore make--one not to be excelled.

A MODEL ESTABLISHMENT.

No. 17.

That part of the history of Baltimore which relates to the present position of its hat industry is especially interesting, as it records a business that has acquired large proportions, placing it prominently among the many important manufactures of this city.

A business identified with the very earliest days of the city's existence, growing and assuming in its movement a condition of vigor and prosperity that is encouraging for the future, has given to Baltimore a name and fame that places her in an enviable position at the very head of the hat-manufacturing cities of this country.

As an example, showing the growth and progress of the hat business, and giving evidence of its extent in Baltimore at the present time, no better illustration could be offered than a description of the complete establishment erected by Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins & Co. for the requirements of their extensive business.

While at the present time the hat business of Baltimore is largely confined to the special manufacture of straw goods, a revived movement made by one firm in the manufacture of silk and felt hats assures a development of that branch of the business also into such proportions that ere long it may restore to Baltimore the prestige and rank it once held as the manufacturing centre of high grades of that class of goods.

Going back to the early period of 1814, Runyon Harris, the predecessor of this firm, in advance of his time displayed evidence of progressive ideas by erecting what was then considered a large and spacious factory. His structure was one hundred and twenty-five feet in length, about twenty-five in width, and two and a half stories high; the area of space upon the two floors, which was alone suited for work-people, was 6200 square feet.